Flashforge Adventurer 3 3D Printer Review

hey it's Joel this is the flashforge adventurer 3 a pint-sized ish affordable ish 3d printer that really I didn't care about I got sent one I was gonna get out of the box and I was gonna play with it but after printing with it it's incredibly intriguing and I need to tell you about it because it might be one of the better price per performance comparisons I've ever made right here on 3d printing dirt now welcome back I'm holding a super meatboy this is modeled by a garret in Chelsea overcast courts neck it's a wonderful little model and we printed this model on this machine because they needed to do some comparisons for a video on their channel it should be out pretty soon but more about this machine we need to slate the meat to the side the flashforge adventurer 3 is a fully enclosed 3d printer capable of temperatures that will let you do abs yes that means the bed in here will get to 100 degrees centigrade the nozzle will get to 235 centigrade it's got a Bowden style extruder because that's it right there that's it right there and that's where the filament goes to one of the things about the filament though it's kind of fit in there if you want to put this side on it's a minor complaint but you know if you want it to be complete you have to use small spoilers either from flashforge or from someone else one of the interesting things about this machine as well is that the build plate itself Oh ain't that better mm-hmm the build plate itself is removable and it's got a build tech Esk finish on it and it's flexible you can pop things off you do need to be careful when you've heated it to ABS temperatures because at 100 degrees centigrade it'll hurt quite a bit so as long as you're careful it's fine it's got a little plate right here that you push down there we go locks into place the bed itself has well it's it's a belt-driven little bed right here and it just kind of has rollers on the machine it's interesting it really means that it's kind of tough to level I didn't do any leveling to it leveling and everything is done through the user interface we'll talk about that in just a little sec well set a little sec we'll talk about that in a little sec the default nozzle on this thing is a zero point four millimeter nozzle these little flaps right here fold out and you're able to remove the nozzle quite easily and put in a new or different nozzle I didn't have a chance to do that with this machine I have any problems with the nozzle I don't think which we'll talk about as well towards the end before we move on to the prints though there's a couple things I do need to make sure I mentioned so the build volume is 150 millimeters cubed it's not that large but it's large enough if that's specifically what you're looking for I guess it prints all sorts of wonderful things you can print via USB there's a little widget right there you can also print over Wi-Fi or there's an Ethernet jack in the back so you can connect up to your home network home network home network sure your home network and then you just put in the IP address in flash print software prints to it no problem you also have access to the Flash cloud and the polar 3d cloud both of those are cloud-based slicing solutions that you can just send objects to and via the cloud they will send them down to the machine the machine has integrated memory which keeps the g-code handy in case you want to print more than one thing one of the things I also need to mention though the filament itself is small spools we showed you that because that's where the extruder is if you don't want to use one of their filaments it doesn't fit really well I mean you can do that but then you're gonna be sad for the rest of the day so what you should do is get a friend who knows how to weld things my buddy Kelvin made me this spool holder you can use paper towel tubes you can use brackets you can use clamps you can use whatever you want you just need to find a way to hang the filament next to here and then you just feed it up into that goes in a hole right there and then you're fine it is open though you can tell that there's a little hole right here and so the enclosure then isn't totally enclosed but that's okay because you have to remember enclosures are meant to keep a consistent temperature and having a little event that's gonna be okay no breeze is gonna get in I did it it works just fine that's that's really it it's it's a fully enclosed little machine and it's not exciting until you look at the prints let me go get those what I did when I got this machine is I loaded in the red filament I went to flash print which is their software and I loaded it up with default settings for their filament and I printed this this is 3d fill the matter hackers mascot it's printed in the flashforge PLA which I believe was for the settings 0.2 millimeter layers a couple perimeters to 10 C on the nozzle 50 C on the bed like 15% infill standard right but it's good it is a good model look at that it's it's fantastic it looks wonderful the red filament is really hard to discern details from but up close you can tell that it looks good so that gave me an idea what are the next things I made was using proto pastas high-five blue go figure and I printed a mini Joel and there are four settings within flash print there's like normal super good ultra mega good and this was the ultra mega good which I believe sets the layer height at like 0.8 millimeters perimeters and infill are around the same the idea is that super really good setting and it allows smaller layer Heights and I printed mini Joel at that and really again I just loaded it in a flash print and it printed it and it was this it's perfect it's it's perfect I'm sorry it's got a little bit of fuzz right there just between the legs honk you see that I can one of the best mini Joel crotches I've ever seen oh and along with that the sides are good the glasses are good the eyeballs are good the hair is good it's good it's good it's perfect this is perfect I was astonished and the next two models that I'm going to show you just reinforce this printers ability to do good this is Captain Marvel I believe this is a wexter model as that current this is a wexter model and again 0.2 millimeter layer height just standard high five blue hit print and go to sleep for the night and this is what popped out in the end it's good it's really really good it's not just me trying to make excuses for something because it did an okay job this is phenomenally good look at the back can you see the back I can't see the back that's smooth I mean the layer line loos back that's a smooth back the face is good the chin overhang that's that's good in fact let's see I was showing you meat boy earlier when meat boy printed this was the orientation there was no supports and this right here this was an overhang that it handled Garin Chelsea said they've seen model their model printed with other machines that couldn't handle that overhang very well the adventurer 3 no problem meat boy gives it a thumbs up the last one in PLA that I want to talk about is this this is the rep chord rep Raptor it is a model made by my buddy Carmelo Nazario he's just a really nice guy he sweats a lot he likes to hug people and it's awesome but this is the rep Raptor the idea is the rep Raptor consumes all of your filament or something that's what the whole in the jaw for hole in the jaw can you speak today yeah I need more or less caffeine this is a fantastic model very organic in shape and the flashforge adventurer 3 handled it no problem hands down the the shape right around the rep Raptor hips this tail look at the belly right there you can see this is the seam right here it's not bad but that overhang that's great that is fantastic and this is with high five blue filament this is I've heard it's hard to print on some machines this is a great model and I would give it two thumbs up that RepRap tur pose I mean kind of like he's kind of like but Joel you said it prints ABS did you do any ABS prints yes at first I thought let's revisit one of my first 3d prints ever an ABS traffic cone I had some very old four years old matter hackers ABS I actually tweeted it out I was like do you think it'll work it worked this is loading it into flash print and just hitting print it printed great and that is just old ABS it lifted just a smidge on one of these corners yeah that corner right there just a smidge but the rest of it is fine and this is abs and as bill Durant over at punished prop says this is easily sandable so I could sand my traffic cone I'm not going to because I don't care that much I used the same matter hackers abs and I attempted to print the printed solid mascot will cross the streams [Music] and it didn't work out at first I just reprinted and it worked just fine for some reason when printing with this ABS I had the filament sensor on and it detected a problem with the filament the machine I don't know why it detected that but there was no problem with the filament I just removed this from the build plate and I hit print again and this is how it printed it is older abs four years old I didn't dry it or treat it particularly well I did get some splitting right there but if you look at the back these are details that I would assume aren't the easiest to reproduce and it did it no problem and I didn't burn myself on the build plate so that's always a good thing so the flashforge adventurer three prints a B yes perfectly what would you call then circles a lot yes that was fantastic along with the good does come some bad unfortunately so we were able to print with high five blue no problem and we were able to print with the matter hackers ABS no problem plus the red PLA that came with the flashforge adventurer three no problem I attempted to try the poly alchemy effects series this is their sandstone it's printed fine on many other machines I've had it does okay kind of in small amounts otherwise it just fails this was going to be a rep Raptor before the machine got the clique of death and just wouldn't print it any longer and it's the same G code that ran this rep Raptor this rip rip sure and then this is PLA that I've printed right after printing high five blue they they have the same settings they should work just the same they didn't in this machine also this strong hero 3d black PLA I attempted to print one of those cities it's not perfect by any means and it kept clicking while I was trying to print it it was still able to reproduce incredible detail but it wasn't taking the filament it just so I had to kill it which is said I reached out to flashforge and I tweeted some stuff out I did find out that there is a community and that community has some settings and they have some modifications that they tend to make to the machine one of the things they say is you need a new hot bolt or you know the extruder gear you need a new one of those because the one that comes with it isn't very good you also need to increase the voltage to the stepper drivers all of that is done in the advanced options of flash prints so here are four filament Friday ponds and I printed these two with standard default settings two with these advanced settings right up to the voltage and changed the extrusion multiplier a little bit I think is what it was I printed using the flashforge red PLA I printed one with the original settings from from flash print and I printed one using the settings from the community same with the poly alchemy effects series I was able to get small prints working with it something that didn't take a lot of time or didn't have to consume a lot of the build volume this one is using the default settings you can kind of see that the sphere on top isn't perfect but it's okay you can see that it was able to reproduce these sidewalls just fine I mean it's a decent model except right here for some reason it would mess up right here it actually did it on the red one as well let's see if I can find that it's harder to tell in the red one but it did the same thing but if you look there these are the new settings so they're not that much better and curiously on top the new settings didn't allow the top layers to stretch all the way to the perimeters where it did on this one I did hear back from flashforge and they said you have one of the earlier units these issues that the community talks about or these not being able to print certain filaments these are known we actually have these fixed and we have parts can we send them to you you just need to put them in the printer all printers that are sold right now actually have these fixed parts so those are coming in on I'll be more than happy to put these in this machine I'll be more than happy to run them and get some prints going if you would like to see an updated video on this machine let me know in the comments I'll make sure that happens on this piece of paper right here I have a list of things that I do want to discuss about the adventurer 3 and the best way to get through this list is actually just to start a print so let's do that one of the things that I do need to talk about is the filament load and unload and change procedure so when the mood amendment when the menu is up and you want to change load or unload filament you tap right here filament and then change what it's gonna do is heat the extruder up to two hundred thirty five degrees C it actually heats it up pretty quick and the bed will go to 100 degrees C like I've said but that actually is quick too because it's so tiny look at that we're already at a hundred and fifteen degrees C just like that while it's heating up I can show you that right there that is flashforge filament on a special spool that fits in there this will not fit standard spools we're gonna replace it with a spool of proto pasta but thanks to my friend Kelvin I have a spool door that's the solution if it doesn't fit you have to like fit it on the outside so the change procedure it'll actually extrude some filament you can see it coming out and then it'll start to back it up and it's already going there we go you're now out see the spool it's smaller so once it gets through with the unload procedure it's gonna tell you to put the filament in let the extruder grab it and then once you see the new color coming out of the nozzle you're supposed to hit the okay button so let's see uh-huh we'll film it out feed new filament in and press that's okay so hard to do that yeah we're right there and tell me if I'm close to okay up right there nailed it Wow teamwork the Bowden tube that it uses because it's a Bowden system actually has a sharp bend right here and a pretty good Bend right here and it bend it down inside I know they have to fit everything within this enclosure but you're still taking kind of a tight turn and filament doesn't know how to Tokyo Drift so certain more brittle filaments might not actually make that turn okay also it doesn't speed up the process when it's loading the filament so when I hit that button it actually started drawing the filament in and it's still going one eternity later okay it's made it through the tube it's now entering into the hot end and pretty soon hopefully we will see a what color is that it's kind of a it I feel like it's an oceanic seafoam green foam sure let's go with seafoam there's red and seafoam great so we oh oh do you hear that okay well we've changed filament you did hear the dreading the dreaded the dreading I'm so I'm so distraught that I can't even say the word the clicking that you heard it wasn't able to extrude the material properly now that you have the proper filament loaded you might need to calibrate the bed that's done by going back going to tools setting and then calibration this machine doesn't have an adjustable bed so the bed itself just kind of sits flat and you have to assume from the factory that the bed is perpendicular to the nozzle there are no adjustments that'll let you change that because of how the bed is made calibration is done by as the screen says make the nozzle touch the bed and once it does hit okay the problem you're faced with is it's a very dark colored bed and there's a black shroud around the nozzle and there's a tiny nozzle and there's a bunch of LEDs in there okay how about this well we get a sound Sean can you zoom in and see the nozzle so just to read the screen perfectly here click the arrow to adjust the nozzle so it just touches the build platform and it gives you a z-axis and a number I'm going to assume that we need to bring it lower correct okay tell me when it touches the platform and they're kind of you've actually touched the platform now for a while oh really yeah and if you want to back it up it's nice but going back and then back down at least on this machine doesn't do the same distance so if you have a nozzle going lower than going back up it has to take a moment before the threading brings it back up it's kind of weird I know that just by usage of the machine - one point one units is proper and I'm gonna hit okay it says completed which is great and then I hit completed and it saves that information in its brain and we go about our day so knowing that and knowing that the bed is not adjustable and you have to assume from the factory the nozzle is perpendicular to the bed you may run into issues when doing prints just because it may not be perfectly level and perpendicular but knowing that as well you're talking about a bed that is a hundred and fifty millimeters by 150 millimeters we're not talking about a GMAC sized bed so it's it could be out of level but not over a long or not over along X or Y axes it's I think it's okay like I think it's okay now to print I have some models loaded up in there and to get to those we're gonna go back we're gonna go build which i think is fantastic and we've got clouds we've got USB and we've got internal memory which I'm gonna click right there tap right there and then I have a spaceship it's gonna give me kind of a I don't know would there be a preview I guess it's got the name it's got the time the amount of filament and I've got trash I have I think make a copy and I have this button which I believe is build we hit that so the machine is gonna home X&Y and then it'll bring Z down and it'll start the print once temperatures have been hit but what's great is the beds already at 32 C and it's going up a degree or two every second or two so it should get up to the 50 degrees C that this file was pre-configured for the beds at 48 C and the nozzle is now getting up to temperature the nozzles at 96 C and growing not growing heating rising rising mercury rising that was a Bruce Willis film it's gonna prime at the front of the bed just a little priming trip and then it's going to begin to print the model what's that that's unfortunate okay let's see looks like we're pretty close on the left side and we're not pretty close on the right side so this bed is not perpendicular to the nozzle again we're not over a great distance so it's not the most horrible thing in the world but let's say you wanted to adjust for this let's say there was a micro adjustment you could make in order to raise the nozzle up just a little bit maybe like a baby z stepping right that doesn't exist on this machine what you have to do is stop your print clear the plate and go back to calibration once you complete calibration then you can test your print again it's entirely possible that the clicking that I'm hearing here isn't because it can't take other third-party filaments it's entirely possible that it's because the nozzle is too close to the bed on the left side but that hasn't been my experience there has been clicking even when the nozzle is the proper height and the proper temperature let's say you think your nozzle temperature isn't correct there is a way to adjust that you hit the minus button on the screen I'm sorry you don't do that because that's cancel you hit the three dots and then I've got swapping spools I've got an idea and I have a paper the idea is actually the LED light on the inside which I can turn off and on that's fun the paper gives me an interface where I can change certain things and I can tap up here and I can up the temperature let's go to 220 because why not okay it didn't take so let's tap there okay it doesn't say 220 up there yeah so the issue I run into now is that the touchscreen is generally responsive and it does exactly what I needed to do on the first tap but I did notice that it is not responsive on this specific screen when trying to tank change the temperature for filaments oh now it's up to 220 okay maybe it just takes a while to cancel a print you tap that button and you hit yes and then the extrude or the hunt the nozzle begins its slow ascent to the sky letting out the rest of the filament that was inside see this is a good opportunity to finish up the video because I like this machine I like it a lot and as all of the models that I've shown you prove its able to produce incredible results and it's priced at three hundred and forty-nine dollars u.s. this means that for $349 us right out of the box you get an enclosed abs capable machine you can stick a filter on it you can have it indoors the ABS actually it's that stuff stinks when you print it like if I would I open the door to try to take a pink shirt picture I took a huge whiff and I was like oh that's terrible I know there are cheaper machines I mean you can get you can get it under three for under 200 bucks TiVo's touting a big tarantula Pro right now for 200 bucks creating machines and GTECH machines and the Alpha wise machine I mean there's all sorts of incredibly low cost machines that can get you into 3d printing this one is unique in that it gives you a fully enclosed experience and I think that's important I think that's great for kids I think that's great for learning environments I think even though it only has a 150 millimeter cubed volume that shouldn't be a problem because I was able to print lots of really cool stuff and the lulzbot Mini 2 only has a slightly larger build volume and it's 1,500 bucks and it's open I don't think the small build volume is really going to impact you as much if this is what you're looking for granted if you want to print really big things then you're gonna look at a Creole ECR 10 you're gonna look at a G max you're gonna look at an art amiss or a Prusa or you know take your pick right whatever machine has a bigger volume than this but if this looks to be a good machine for you there's a good chance that that large print volume isn't something that you're after right away and that's okay I think this is a good machine and I think its price per performance is something that lets me recommend it to you it's interesting so this is the flashforge adventurer 3 there's also the monoprice voxel which is the same machine just rebranded it's around 350 as well you can also find this as the robo III for 9.99 I'll let you make your own conclusion there for now though I'm just gonna keep playing these Poli panels because I love them if you have anacs-- variance with this machine I'd love to hear about it in the comments I'll put links down below where you can pick it up if you really want to and I'll put the product pages for the voxel and for the robo III just so you can do your own comparisons don't forget if you're part of the hi-5 Club you'll get to see the after the five that Sean and I are gonna produce right after this and you'll be a part of our new series behind the nerd working time working title working title thanks for watching don't forget your awesome I love you all as always high-five

Channel: 3D Printing Nerd

Views: 211,319

Keywords: flashforge adventurer 3, flashforge adventurer 3 3d printer, flashforge adventurer 3 review, adventurer 3 3d printer, adventurer 3 printer, adventurer 3 3d printer review, flashforge adventurer 3 3d printer review, flash forge, monoprice voxel, flashforge 3d printer review, flashforge 3d printer, adventurer 3, flashforge adventurer 3 filament, flashforge usa, robo3d e3, flashforge adventurer 3 calibration, 3d printing nerd, 3dpn, 3d printing, joeltelling, 3d printer

Id: thf_hQzHCSY

Length: 24min 39sec (1479 seconds)

Published: Wed May 01 2019