3D Printing for Noobs - A Beginner’s Course

hi there i'm nils and welcome to the 3d printing zone in this video we're going to be doing basically a 3d printing 101 course for those of you just getting started we're going to walk you through unboxing and getting your first printer set up then we'll get the software set up on the computer and then we'll help you to print your first 3d printed models now most 3d printers out of the box will come with pretty much everything that you need to get started but just in case you want to make sure that you have everything that does come with it you want to make sure that you have a laptop or a desktop computer and that could be a mac a pc linux other varieties chromebooks sometimes will work but typically if you've got a pc or mac you're going to be in good shape you might want to have a beverage of choice on hand because this could take a little while and then you'll just need something to open everything up with now every printer comes with a different assembly status some of them are completely just parts and you have to spend 12 or 14 hours putting them together but more commonly nowadays you get printers that are either fully assembled or just require putting a few parts together that takes you know 30 to 60 minutes in my case this is a brand new flashforge creator max 2 this is a brand new printer they've just released it and we'll use this to show you all the cool things that you can do as you get started so let's open this one up and see what we've got now as i mentioned before every 3d printer is going to have some different setup instructions so be sure to follow along with the instructions that come with your printer in my case i've got some unpacking to do they did a great job of making sure that everything was really solid for the shipment and then once i've got everything unpacked and loosened up then it's a matter of installing my two print heads using four screws each and then from there i get to put on my spindle holders for my material that goes on the back as well as the tubes now this is a direct drive system so those tubes are really just to feed it into the printheads and then once i've got those done i'm just tightening everything up on the inside and then this 3d printer should be ready for me to try out now once you've got your printer all set up and everything is properly installed and ready to go the next thing you want to do before you try to print anything or move things around too much is to power it on and to level the bed for the first time now in most cases the instruction manual that comes with your printer will have everything you need to walk you through that step by step but in case you have any questions always feel free to download the manual for your specific printer from their website okay we're going to go ahead and power this on for the first time there we go now your display might be the kind that has a knob or some dial pad like a d-pad button set up might be a touch screen like this one whatever it is walk through those settings to get yours leveled for the first time [Music] nice little jaunty jingle there all right so the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna feed the filament through to make sure because ideally when you level your printer for the first time or really anytime you want to do that with filament loaded and then you want to make sure those hot ends are nice and cleaned off so we're going to start by let's go to tools filament and load so that's for the left extruder so it's going to load this one up or heat this one up [Music] it's running through its first tests and typically when you receive your printer it will have gone through some quality control at the factory where it was made and so it was likely used to print in the past so this won't be its first time but maybe the first time with a consumer running it so it's definitely working okay so i'm going to say done and now i'm going to do oh yeah because it just stopped now i'm going to do the same thing with the right extruder all right and as you can see over here the blue is coming out in a nice little pile as well now so this one is ready to go so i'm going to hit done and go back and now we're ready to move on to our leveling so again just follow the instructions that came with your printer to level it for the first time once your extruder or extruders have been readied many printers will come with what's called a leveling card and if it doesn't come with one you can typically just use a standard sheet of letter paper so this level card is helpful when you want to go to adjust the height of the bed which we're going to do right now and i'll just show you how this works so it's going to move one of the heads into the middle of the bed then i'm going to insert this card here so with the leveling card as i put it in right now it's really snug so what i'm going to do is i'm going to tighten the screw a little bit which will pull the bed down so if i can remember how to do this the right way go this way okay and eventually it gets pretty loose like this where it can move back and forth really easily so i'm just going to adjust slightly loosening it up a little bit until it starts to snug and pull okay right there it's grabbing on which is just what i want it's not it's not going to hold it steady in place or lock it from moving but it's just going to grab it just enough that you can feel it pulling against it and that's perfect now we'll go through and do this usually on your bed it will go through all four corners and possibly the center as well it just depends on the printer all right now that we've got the new printer leveled and we've tested out that the filament is coming out of the hot end just like it should we're ready to try try out our first model on this so if you usually look on the sd card or micro sd card in fact i'll show you this one this one comes this is a pretty big one considering how big they normally are this is a 16 gig sd card and so a lot of times there will be test files on here so i'm going to pop this in and i'll go to print and then it shows the sd card here click on that and then here's test files right at the bottom so if i click on that okay i've got a few i've got a moai which uses both colors it looks like and again this is yours most printers only print one color this one happens to do two so it's got a two color version there it's got a benchy which is probably the most common test print that you can do it's a small boat and it tests different things like overhang and your quality of your wall builds and different things like that and then we've got a test hook in there as well so i would normally just go ahead and print one of these these are calibrated for your machine these are ready to go out of the box you don't have to configure anything they should just work and to try that out what i'll show you here is we'll do a benchy and it's going to show me all of my statuses for the bed the left extruder and the right extruder in this case now on most printers they will heat up your platform or your bed before they heat up the extruder now this thing is off and running it's printing a couple of benchies and this is the first try and it's doing pretty well we've got one in blue on the right side here and one on in white on the left side at this point we now have our first successful 3d prints from the 3d printer which is pretty exciting i've got my two benchies one in blue one in white in this case from the creator max 2 here if you've got a successful print then you're on your way if you don't stick around to the end where we'll talk about some troubleshooting tips for how to get a successful print or diagnose what went wrong now at this point we're going to move on to how do we print our own models either that we've designed or downloaded from the internet and the first thing we need to look at is slicer software i'm going to provide a brief explanation of slicers there's really way too much to cover in any one video but i'll show you what you need to get started first let's talk about what slicers are so slicing software is basically the process by which you take a 3d model typically a dot stl which stands for stereo lithography file and you're going to take that and convert it into individual layers that a 3d printer can read and understand there are lots of different 3d printing slicer softwares out there a lot of them are free and they are of varying qualities prices and everything else just like you'd expect one thing i really love about the flashforge series is it actually does come with flash print its own proprietary 3d printing software that allows you to load in your printer ready to go out of the box and has all of its settings and everything configured and it just makes it really easy in that case the same company that produces the hardware also produces the software so they work really well together probably the most common software out there for 3d printing slicers is called cura and it's made by ulta maker now kira has a ton of different settings it's totally free to download just like flash print is and you can really do whatever you need to do with it so i'm going to show you both of those so you can see a little bit of a side-by-side comparison and see that there are some basics that are consistent across both those two software sets and really across probably any other software slicer that you come across so here we have the flash print slicer software this is something you can download if you just do a quick google search for a download flash print for example you'll be able to find this for whatever operating system you happen to be using i'm on a mac here and i'm going to go to my printer so if i go to print and machine type i can select from the pre-installed flash forge printers here so i'm going to go to the creator max2 which is the one that we've got right here with us today and then i can load a file so i'm going to go grab from the downloads the bolt that we just downloaded so let's just do the bolt by itself and i'll say open it's going to place it right here these squares that you see these rectangles are the actual volume of the print bed so we know exactly what it can and cannot print so let's take a look at some of the settings so if i go to print i can just specify what my materials are it's got one for the right extruder as well as the left and then whether or not i want supports now supports are what would typically go let me cancel out here and show you this if i had an extreme angle and we'll show you on another model in just a minute but we'll show you when you should use supports and when you shouldn't as a general rule if you can get away without using supports your print is not only going to be faster but it's also going to be easier to clean up afterward so right now i've got supports disabled they're really not necessary on a print like this because there's no severe angles or overhangs we have to worry about i don't need a raft on this and if you're curious about rafts we've got some other videos that talk a little bit about that i am going to put it on high speed or sorry high quality which is a little bit slower and that just means that it's going to make smaller layers so giving more detail and more intricacy to the print itself i'm going to leave a brim on here and that just means it's going to lay down a small layer a set of layers around the bed and attach those to the model to help hold it in place yeah anything that's kind of taller and doesn't have a wide base it's ideal to use a brim for that otherwise you can use a skirt or other adhesion methods for the bed so layer height in this case it's defaulted because i have it on high to 0.12 millimeters that's the thickness or the height of the first and each additional layer that's going to be printed and so that's a pretty high quality if i go low for example it's going to change that to 0.3 millimeters so almost three times as tall meaning a lower resolution but because this is an item that's threaded and works with another part i'm going to leave it at a higher quality you can also go hyper and go 0.08 i really never need that but if you're doing something really intricate you have that option shells just means how many consistent or solid walls do you have around the outside of it and so most printers have a 0.4 millimeter extruder nozzle and that hot end or nozzle means that if you've got 0.4 millimeters and this has three shells you multiply the shell number times your diameter or your opening of your hot end so 0.4 times 3 which will give you 1.2 millimeter thick walls on it and then in this case it's going to do four layers which are at that 0.12 which is our layer height so the top and bottom are based on layer height so this will do four times the 0.12 for both the bottom and the top so it should be about just under a half a millimeter for that all right and then on our infill here this is how solid do you want your material to be so this case it says 20 and we're going to use that 20 which will be just fine in the recommendations in thingiverse it actually suggested that this be 100 infill and if you're going to use this for something structural or actually try to leverage the full engineering capacity of this this bolt and a nut then yes i would go 100 but i think 20 will be fine for what we're doing here today and then there's different patterns you can select that go inside the infill and those again lots to explain there lots to go through but for the most part any any of those will work pretty well some have better advantages than others but we're going to leave it at hexagon for now now with speed this is a great area to look at for troubleshooting in this case flashprint knows the speeds that work best for its own printers so i'm going to leave this at 50 millimeters a second and travel meaning when it's not actually printing but just moving from place to place for the head it's at 70 millimeters per second so neither of these are particularly fast but i think they'll do the job and on a smaller print like this it should still knock it out pretty quickly and again temperature we've got it set to pla and it will already know what to do there if i change this to petg for example it's going to know to adjust both the bed or platform temperature as well as the extruder temperature i'm going to put this abs for example we'll do a different temperature set so it kind of knows exactly what needs to be done for each one so i'll leave it as it was for the pla settings and then additionally you can check out whether or not you want the cooling fan on in this case we definitely do want it on and you can pause it at certain heights for changing filaments things like that which we do not need to do right now so i'm going to leave everything kind of as it is i'll put that back to high because it reset when i change the filament type and leave everything as it is there and then i'm going to hit ok so for the most part if you're getting started you can do a lot of this just with the default settings now what's cool is you'll notice that the picture has changed here oops let me slow down here and it looks a little more granular you can actually see the individual layers that are going into how this gets printed so each one of these is a sliced layer so there's one layer right there and so you can see the details that it will use to actually reproduce this on the 3d printer now if i go back and hit print and if i go to hyper and say okay now our layers are a little bit more intricate a little more fine if i go back and change that to a course or the lower faster setting and hit ok you'll see a big difference okay way less quality here and this is known as the printer resolution or the printer quality and so for a lot of your prints that don't require some sort of interaction with other pieces then a 0.3 millimeter even though it looks really bad when we're way zoomed in like this when you pop out a little bit like this you can see that's actually not bad so that is an option a lot of the times to do a 0.3 millimeter setting so i'm going to go because this one does require a little more detail we'll put it back to high quality and hit ok there and now as we zoom in it should be back to where it was the first time we looked at it there we go so better quality and i can see that these threads are pronounced enough that this should work so that's a kind of quick crash course in the settings for your slicer with this ready to go i'm going to hit export gcode and for flashforge printers it uses what's called the dot gx file extension most of the printers out there are going to use a dot g code file and we'll show both of those so i'm going to save that okay so this is ready to go so now i can pop that onto my sd card and put it in the printer and try it out now before we do that you can see up here it does give us an estimate of about 27 minutes of print time and it uses about a half meter of pla i wanted to also show you cura so with cura this again is probably one of the most popular softwares for doing 3d printer slicing it is free and it's really easy to add your printer to it so i can say add printer and it has a pretty good library of different printers in here that are loaded with the software itself so i can add a non-networked printer since i don't have one connected to the network itself this will just be via sd card right now and as you scroll through here you can see there are a lot of different manufacturers that it supports all kinds of things in here which is nice and one of the ones that we will install just as a sample here for you today so if we go back up to towards the top let's look at creality very common printer is the ender model for example so let's say we want to put a ender 3 pro in there it will give it the name which you can change here yourself if you'd like to or customize that and then when you hit add it takes you to the settings so you can verify that these are all correct but it knows the settings for these individual printers these are called printer profiles that are set up in here so out of the box it should work just with what's given here you can even see that the diameter of the material is set in here it's got one extruder in that case and it's ready to go so i can hit next and there it is so there we have an ender 3 pro on the screen if you already have an stl file you can go ahead and use that but i'm going to go get one online i'm gonna open up a new tab and i'm going to navigate to thingiverse.com if you haven't heard of thingiverse.com it is a free massive online collection of 3d models so as you can see right away we've got this whole slew of really cool items i think it would be kind of fun to print some of these nuts and bolts so i just click on that and a few things to know in thingiverse you've got a lot of options here so first of all we can download the files here we'll start with that so i'm going to download the files give me about five seconds before it pulls it into a zip file down here so let me show you a couple things that you're going to want to take a look at i can hit like here so that that will save to my liked files or liked models and then i can scroll through the different images here if the author has uploaded different images you'll see those and if they've got different files all of the files will be represented here and another really cool thing is you can actually go in and say i want to see this in 3d so i'll click on that it'll load and then i can spin that around and see this object in 3d right in my browser very cool i'm going to exit out of that the other thing you'll want to keep an eye out for here is you've got comments a lot of times the comments are really helpful with settings or what's worked or not worked and then typically you'll have print settings of some sort listed here so this requires no raft no supports these ones were printed at 100 infill and then there's some notes here as well so we can try this out so with that downloaded i'm going to click on it and we'll unzip this file here there it is and then inside here we've got a couple of things so we've always got the same set of files here and one of them is the actual files folder the images will just include whatever images were shown in thingiverse here so these should look familiar and then i'm going to go to files and then i've got each of the dot stl files that i can use and these are the files that i want to bring into cura i'm going to go in and open up in the top left and let's go to downloads and grab the same file so there's the bolt 25x8 and notice the dot stl file type so i'll hit open and it will place it right in the middle of the bed okay so i'm gonna scroll down to zoom in hold down shift key and then click and drag off the bed in order to move and then from there i can use if i hold down the control key on my mac then i can click and drag around to change my perspective okay so i can zoom in see the details here pretty well all my settings for the printer are here in the settings drop down so i'm going to click on that and out of the gate you're going to have these settings i've reset this back to what you should see if you're installing this for the first time and there's a lot more that you can add in here which is really convenient so again we can't go over all of these but just like we saw in flash print your layer height is your quality you know your resolution essentially for the printer this one's at 0.2 so i'll change that to 0.1 okay and then your wall thickness this is again your shells just like it says here and again there's a lot more details you can go into but we're going to keep it fairly high level just to get you up and running here infill just like we looked at before this is how solid how much infill is actually going inside the model itself we can change this to 100 percent if we wanted to and i'm going to leave it at 100 for just a second to slice this and show you the time difference that it takes even on a really small little thing like this this is a really tiny print so we'll leave this at lines we can do any any number of these here that we want to do so we can do cross 3d whatever so material it's going to set this again because it's pla it's going to try to do this at 200 degrees and 60 degrees for the bed which again is pretty decent i like 210 typically for the hot end i find that works really consistently and then our print speed is defaulting to 50 and notice here it doesn't give you very many print options out of the box but you can add all of those yourself if you like then we have retraction which just means the ability for the printer to retract the pla or the material the filament while it's moving along so that it's not stringing as much so if you're taking a lot of seeing a lot of stringing then you might want to adjust your retraction settings and again there's just a lot we can go into there but we're going to just right now just leave retraction enabled and we'll leave it at that print cooling is super important and what this means is the fan is going to turn on and it's going to try to cool the filament right as it comes out of the nozzle and when we have these little overhangs like this where it's instead of being able to just stack on top of itself vertically it's actually gotta hang out over the previous layer this is where the fan is really important if you don't have cooling turned on then it's really gonna struggle to do these sorts of overhangs if you do sometimes you can get some pretty amazing results with it and we'll leave that fan speed at 100 percent again something adjustable and then lastly is support and again we'll talk about another model in just a minute that shows you when it would be a good example of using support whereas in this one we're just not going to need it there's nothing that we're going to need to print some temporary supports in order for this model to be successful we just don't need it in this case so we'll go with a brim in this case and then it's giving me giving me options for dual extrusion but the ender 3 pro for example does not have a dual extruder like this flash forge does so there's no options there so if we slice this it should give us a pretty quick result here okay so it's going to take one hour exactly it's going to take 2 grams or 0.71 meters of filament in order to do this at 100 in infill if i change this back to 20 let's see what a difference it makes okay now it's basically halved the time and the material so 32 minutes one gram 0.42 millimeters of material so you can see the infill has a huge impact on time and material so you've got to be considerate of what you actually need out of your infill so because this is not a structural piece this is just something we're doing as an example i'll leave it at 20. we could honestly go lower than that and still be fine and i think we're okay so i'm going to hit save to file and we'll save this off so those are some of the basics of cura another thing that's really important to know is that you can actually go into these gear icons here and that will take you into your settings so basically it allows you to turn on or off different settings and when you click on the gear for infill it will take you directly to the infill section here so i can say i actually want to be able to control my infill y offset my line multiplier i can turn any of these on so if i do this so if i connect infill polygons you can see it just added it over here in my printer settings and there are so many you can actually do advanced here and that will check a whole bunch of these and turn them on and that might be a good place to start if you go back to basic it's going to give you what it came with out of the box you can do expert and it's going to give you even more you can see the scroll bar just got way small over here so you've got a lot of options it's got um that checked a lot of them not everything but most of them but you can see there are hundreds of settings that you can adjust here which is at the same time really convenient as well as super daunting so this is something that just takes some time to get used to and see what's what so i'm going to go back to advanced for this case i'll use quite a few of these but even even myself after doing this for years i won't use all of these settings most of the time so close that and you've got a lot of options here that you can play with keep in mind there's always as you hover over them you get a little explanation that shows up a description and often some examples and then you can always hit the reset button here to go back to what it defaults to out of the box okay so now we're just going to print that from the sd card so we'll hit print go to our sd card and now we have the arrow showing our other files i actually put a couple of them on here so we're gonna see this one here it's got a picture of it so we'll click on that and tell it to print so the first thing it's going to do is make sure that our bed is up to temperature it's setting the bed right now it's homing it basically saying making sure it knows where each of the extruders and the bed are positioned at and then it's going to heat everything up both hot ends and then the bed as well and it'll start with the bed and then it should start the print now just like we saw in the slicer software it's basically going through and adding one layer at a time and then it moves the bed down that 0.12 millimeters and prints the next layer also at the bottom you can see it's printed a raft and the raft is actually really easy to remove so there's the finished product and to remove that raft all we need to do is just peel that off it breaks away pretty easily now you do have the option of using either a sharp blade or some sandpaper to remove that raft it comes off pretty clean and leaves a nice finished product now that we've successfully printed this little bolt we can now take a look at something a little more complicated that involves a couple of changes to our settings we're going to print a little baby yoda and i've already printed one out for you to see right here and this one i like this one as a model to show you because it's got a couple of things we're going to need to change we're going to set a fairly low infill on this maybe 15 even 10 percent and then you can see in the arms here it's got some real overhang something that's going to be really difficult and in the case of his little right hand something that's not really possible to do with out doing support so i'm going to show you support we're going to try a tree structure of support but i'll show you a couple of other options that you have with that as well so we're back here in the flash print slicer software i'm going to load the baby yoda file that i grabbed just a little bit ago from thingiverse and let's do baby yoda version 2.2.stl so i'll open that stl file and we can see here we've got a pretty decent sized model so we've got a lot of options with the model selected i'm going to go to scale and i want to change this this is uniform scaling so if i change any of these it'll change all of these let's try this at 50 percent and as soon as i hit tab it'll scale it down notice it keeps it mated to the bed here so it's going to keep it stuck on the bed in the right height so it's not floating in the air or anything like that that's pretty common to most slicer software and then if i need to i can also move it around by dragging it like this or i can use the x y and z coordinates to do that as well i can also just hit on platform to make sure it stays on there and there's some other options as well as far as rotation i can cut just a piece of it and over here i can select which extruder to use my left extruder actually has the white filament so i'm going to set that and this should be ready to go what i'm going to do next here though is to add some supports if we zoom in here you can see there's really no way for this right hand in particular and the left one for that matter to be able to print without some sort of support underneath it to hold it up it would just be printing in thin air which is not possible so i'm going to click supports and i have different support options here so i can do tree like or linear i'll show you both of these and i'll show you this in cura as well since that's the software that a lot of people will be using so overhang threshold is what are the angles at which the printer can actually successfully print without support the higher this number the less support it's going to have and typically i can go anywhere from 70 to 75 without supports but just to show you what this will look like i'm going to do 55 i'll leave it there so if i just say ok to this and then do auto supports it's going to do some calculations down here and process this and it's going to come up with a set of little tree like structures that will support right off of the print itself there we go so none of these are actually touching the build plate they're just touching the model and that will help as you can see down here let's take a look here inside there it's got some in here to hold up his hand and then over here on this side same thing to hold up that hand and oh it's putting some around his mouth and his ears so i can now go back and those structures are part of the model itself which is kind of cool all right so it's got all of those in the ears and everything if you want to see what this is going to look like with the non-tree-like structure we can go back to supports clear supports and then do linear so we'll do this say ok auto supports and it's going to run through the same process and this time it will do either straight lines or zigzags depending on what it chooses here there we go some straight lines to go up and get those supports in place to do the hands and everything else so kind of cool i actually like the tree structure it tends to use less material and it usually comes off pretty well as well so i'm going to clear those go back to tree like say okay and auto support that so we'll put those tree light structures back in now when we go to print we've got pla we've got our supports enabled this time which means we want to print what's shown here which is good raft is disabled we've got it on the high quality 0.12 millimeter and i think we're in good shape we can go ahead and hit print here so i'm going to say okay to this and we'll save this off and send it to the printer just like we did before now while you're watching a little grogu print here and seeing the final results i want to tell you just a little bit about this printer right here which is really cool i've been working with flashforge for a couple of years now they're a great company that makes high quality printers that really work well i've had i think 12 3d printers at this point and flashforge i've had four of them and they are some pretty amazing products this is their newest printer this is the creator max 2. so i'll put links in the description if you want to go check out this printer what you're seeing me print right now are the very first prints off of this printer that i've ever done i have not tuned it i have not tested it i've just done the initial calibration out of the box that you saw me do earlier and that's it it prints well it just works so if you're looking for a hassle-free experience give flashforge a try and specifically check out the creator max 2 here it's an excellent printer one of the killer features on this printer and there are many is it has independent dual extruders which is called idecs for short now idex means that each of these extruders that you see moving around right here can move independently of the other you can have it do one print on one side and then on the other side do a totally different material so it can do mirror mode so they can go like this they can duplicate and do two of the same prints so if i wanted to do this little baby yoda for example in blue on the right and white on the left i can do that no problem another really cool feature of the dual extruders is that you can print multiple color prints like this one here so it's actually printing a wall around it so that it keeps the distinct colors away from one another so red and white it'll handle both of those on the same layer with no mixing and then all you have to do when you're done is peel it off and it's kind of like unhatching this egg of a 3d print you can see it keeps those colors really independent of one another and ends up with a really beautiful finished product in addition to the independent dual extruders it's got the magnetic release plate bed which is really nice it's got the single lever leveling so i can actually just twist one button one lever down here one knob and it will actually level itself just off of that one it's a really smart suspension system that it's got in there it's fully enclosed as you can see so it keeps the noise down and it helps you to print things that are really sensitive to drafts like abs filament and then you've got your full color touch screen down here you've got two spool holders on the back so you can't see the spool of filament because there's two of them mounted onto the back here which is really nice so a great printer if you're interested in having something that's really solid and that's just going to work for you every time so again links are in the description please check that out if you want to learn more about getting started with 3d printing there's a few things that i'm going to recommend number one i've got a video called 13 things i wish i knew before i started 3d printing so you might want to check that one out if you haven't already and i'll put a link to that one right here and then also there is a support guide or a troubleshooting guide that's available that i'll also link to in the description and that has basically the how to troubleshoot just about everything that you can come across with 3d printing if things aren't sticking to the bed properly if the layers are shifting at a certain point if the layers are not sticking to each other very well and it's kind of sparse or thin if you're getting stringing you know any of those sorts of problems that you're most likely going to encounter with 3d printing can be resolved via that troubleshooting guide i have nothing to do with that troubleshooting guide it's not a sponsor or anything like that it's just something that i think is really helpful that i've been able to call on and direct people to to help figure out problems that they've got with 3d printing hopefully what you've learned in this video has helped you to get started i know it's kind of a long video but there is a lot to go over and at the same time i feel like there's so much that i've left out because there's just a lot that you could potentially cover in a video like this now in the comment section below my comment sections tend to be pretty active which is a good thing so if you have questions feel free to leave those questions below if you have comments or tips strategy things you've learned along the way leave those for others and maybe look through those comments and see if you can answer some of the questions that other people have below also you may want to consider joining a facebook group or a reddit group and see about 3d printing online so that you can talk to other people who are into 3d printing and see if they can give answers to your questions there as well now i thought it'd be cool to show you the finished product of what i'm creating here as we printed the bolt already i'm just going to show you the wing nut that i'm printing right now it's a very quick print we're seven minutes in and it's about a quarter of the way done so in about a half hour total it should be all set and i can show you that so thanks for watching today if you have any questions like i say leave those in the comment section below be sure to check out some of my other videos about 3d printing everything from octolapse to 13 things i wish i knew to updates and other printer reviews as well you can check out the 13 things video right here and you can subscribe right down here i'm nils thanks for watching the 3d printing zone and we'll see you next time

Channel: The 3D Printing Zone

Views: 22,527

Keywords:

Id: iK4tOP74v6k

Length: 37min 41sec (2261 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 22 2021