Ender 5 Plus Micro Swiss Direct Drive Upgrade - With all metal hot end!

now that is one sexy piece of hardware [Music] hey welcome back to tripods garage on this video we're gonna kind of pick up where we left off on the last video the last video was a budget friendly budget friendly direct drive kit for your ender 5 plus it was made by printermods.com now i had like three things i didn't care too much about it first the stepper motor was hanging over the front you know second is the extruder is facing the the back so you can't see it and third is the fit and finish the um you know the bl touch bracket didn't line up but it still worked and still worked really well now is there another solution for around the same price point i think there is and i think you may know what it is with the box behind me microsoft reached out to me and sent me something that's been long anticipated and i can't wait to put it on here it is the micro swiss direct drive extruder yes it is finally out and there's two variants of this package this is the full kit with the all metal hot end and you can just get the regular kit just the direct drive now i say that we just hop on the computer real quick just check out the differences and then we'll come back and see what steps are needed to complete this task first while we're on microsoft's site here i wanted to take a look at the all metal hot app that's only for 63.50 now i did a video on this not that long ago on the upgrade process and um the quality of this hot end and it to me it's it's a no-brainer for the cost and everything and with the hardened steel nozzle it is a great purchase now let's go ahead and take a look at the extruder kits here um because i want to point out something let me click on it and uh what i want to point out let's go to extruder only this is 57.75 i mean you get the dual drivetrain hardened tool steel cnc precision precision cut gears adjustable filament grip easy filament loading you know it's lightweight aluminum i mean honestly right then and there for 57.75 that has a great deal but now let's click on the with the hot end because this is what really makes this a bargain remember 57.75 right and we click on with the hot end 99.75 so if we really want to break this down you're now getting that all metal hot end at discounted price at 36.25 so and you get everything here so anyways i think that's a really good deal so let's go ahead and begin the installation process all right let the upgrade process begin what we're going to do is first heat up the hot end extract the filament let everything cool down and power off the printer now what i'm going to do is uh in the upper right hand corner you're going to see a hot end upgrade video now i'm not gonna go through all the detail in here because i've already got two videos that cover this so if you need more detail on how to remove everything off of this please refer to that video otherwise i'm gonna be fast forwarding through a lot of this so please sit back enjoy and prepare to fast forward just like in spaceballs [Music] let's remove the extruder start by removing the clip and then we are going to unplug the extruder as well as the filament for an ounce sensor after we're done with doing that we are going to uh unscrew the folding tube and remove that and then we'll loosen the two uh screws for the t-nuts on the back and remove the whole extruder assembly [Music] all comes off in one piece easier to work with this way now there are some tools that you're going to need for the job you're going to need a phillips screwdriver an adjustable wrench you get a if you have one it's not necessary but if you have a torque wrench that does inch pounds that's great a seven millimeter socket the wrenches that came with your printer should suffice as well as you'll need a two millimeter allen a 2.5 millimeter allen and a three millimeter allen most of them should have came with your printer so if not all of them so okay let's take a look at what's in this box it really looks like it's overflowing and um oh well it definitely is let's see what's in here well definitely have you got a nice little some swag here you got your micro swiss uh sticker here tells you where to follow on facebook and twitter step by set install instructions and um yeah there's a lot of parts here um let me go ahead and dig through this and lay them all out for you and there is everything all right let's get to assembly now i wanted to mention this piece this is a filmic guide piece this piece will actually replace your whole extruder just to help guide the filament now i'm not going to be using this piece but i will show you in the video where it goes and how to use it i actually came up with a different solution for my filament run out and everything in a different location i'll also show you that in this video as well okay the first thing we're going to do is take this whole extruder apart we're not going to reuse anything but the stepper motor everything is going to be gone including the gear on the stepper motor so let's get to it you may want to sell the components on ebay or something who knows [Music] now let's take apart the carriage and actually we're only saving the wheels and this etc nothing else so let's tear it apart [Music] we're going to uh start assembling the wheels it's nice seeing that these uh bolts already come with thread lock on them already now when we assemble these we are going to have the wheels on the standoffs these are pre-spaced so you don't have to worry about having those spacers we're gonna assemble it put these in and the eccentric nut will be the spacer for the one on the bottom [Music] for the single wheel on the bottom we're gonna leave this nice and loose that way it is really easy to get onto the carriage and tighten up we are gonna now install the stepper motor this will require only three screws to hold this in place the fourth screw will be with the lever so let's go ahead and dig out the three screws that are needed and i'll give you a little zoom in shot what it looks like [Music] here's what it looks like with the three screws in place two on the top and one in the lower left now we're gonna install the tension lever you're going to want to grab a piece of filament here and this will what this will do is help line up the gear on the stepper motor with the one on the lever arm you can see this flat side out it'll just make it easier for when we put the gear on and we're going to loosen this grub screw and then we're going to slide this pinion gear or whatever you want to call it this gear on the stepper motor tighten it down and using again the filament as our guide here's a close-up as you can see it just really helps with lining up the gears [Music] now we're going to insert the lever pin this is adjustable for the tension so this is actually keyed and can only fit in one way so you can see here is if we slide this in i'll turn to the side here but yeah it just slides right in and then um pretty easy straight forward and then you close it and then we're going to screw on the end cap here now of course it does say that if you're using like a flexible or something this would be a lot less pressure to get this to push through so just throwing that out there it's also part of the instructions it says that so let's continue forward now this is a pull instead of a push to get your uh filament through so let's go ahead and get this hot end assembled now the heat break goes in on the top so how you know that is when i pointed down at the bottom of the rub screws so we're gonna go ahead and tighten this down nice and snug and then after we do that we're going to insert the nozzle on the bottom and just make that nice and snug as well now i'm reusing my hardened steel nozzle it's not part of this kit so you know your divorce would be using the one that can provide it after we insert this we're going to just make this nice and snug we don't want to over tighten this now we're going to just insert the heating block into the coin block and then we need to find the little grub screw that's in this bag and then tighten that down into the cooling block securing both of the pieces together [Music] [Music] now this kit comes with a notched piece of capricorn tubing it's very important that we line up the wedge that's on the top here with the wedge that's on the you can see right there on the top that needs to line up exactly the same so after we have this lined up we are going to make sure this is pushed in nice and tightly into the cooling block and then we're going to insert the clip and then push it down again so this way we know that it's as far down as it will go and it's [Music] go ahead and fasten it down with the two screws provided again it's aluminum so don't over torque this down now you don't want to over tighten these but wow i mean this thing together it's gonna be a shame to put the fan cover back on here because this thing actually just looks pretty darn amazing well let's get it installed please just uh double check that the machine's still powered off at this point as you recall the nut and bolt on the bottom is nice and loose so getting this on shouldn't be that big of an issue and we're going to tighten this down this nut and bolt and we are going to then for fine tuning adjust the eccentric nut in the back this will get rid of any wobble and make sure that this carriage moves nice and freely back and forth and you can also tilt it back and forth to confirm that all the wobble is gone we are now going to install our belt on both ends and most likely it is loose i printed this part out you could actually refer to my last video about it um to help with that tensioning we're going to loosen these two nuts or bolts on the end here and then once we do we can apply pressure to this printed part and uh and then tighten those bolts back up again after you believe that you achieved proper tension move the carriage around and tighten the tensioner back up on the ends and you're done i have my old heat block here i just want to get a close-up on what i'm doing i'm going to be inserting the thermistor wire the probe right here into the small hole and then i'm going to take a screw and tighten it down right there holding the wire in place so this thing you want to make sure that this wire isn't too tight because we don't want to pinch the wire well let's go ahead and get this final assembly done this way we could uh heat it up do some more torquing down of some screws and get some prince going what do you think [Music] [Music] we need to turn on the printer and set this hot end to 220 degrees to do some final torquing of the components we're going to take our crescent wrench hold the heat block and we're going to torque this nozzle down to 30 inch pounds of torque now if you do not have a torque wrench don't worry about it just uh here's your best judgment and make it nice and tight not over tight though now we're going to tighten the grub screws on the heat block and then we're also going to tighten this rope screw that's holding the thermal brake in place so after we're done with that we can then let this all cool down and uh unplug the printer and do final assembly [Music] don't forget to put on your silicon sock for protection of course we are now going to take our extruder extension cable and we're going to plug it into the back of the extruder here and uh since we have wires and everything going everywhere right now i'm going to take this opportunity to straighten everything up and also feed the filament through the extruder as well so let's go ahead and get this going [Music] where you're just going to take the extruder extension cable and plug it into the extruder wire done wiring the extruder you want to make sure that your bowdoin tube is right there at the edge you just see it right there then you're going to take your e-clip that was supplied this is going to help lock your board tube in place just like that here's the filament guide that's provided by mark swiss it just takes two screws and two nuts on the back uh basically this just as a guide um it replaces your extruder and you hook your bolt in up to up to here and you just mount it back up now i went a different route with mine i uh this was in my last video i basically just mounted the filament run out sensor there tap two um couplers in there and it's been working very well for me i feel like uh i'll put the video up above and the time stamp of when i did it so you can take a look yourself again yeah this is the standard way of doing it now we're going to look at step 26 it's recommended by microswitch to change the e-steps to 130 as our starting point to do that we're going to use pronterface to communicate from our computer to our printer and there's plenty of youtube videos on this on how to do this so i'm not going to bore you with all this but this is what i'm going to be using to communicate and do the g-code command to change the e-steps as well as do a step called pid tuning for our hot end so let's get started now that we have basically replaced the whole hot end on this uh 3d printer i think it's best to do what's called a pid auto tune i opened up pronterface and i'm going to connect uh under 5 plus to this and we're going to run a m303 command which is going to initiate this autogen basically what's going to do it's going to cycle your hot end it's going to go up to a certain temperature drop back down and then go back up again find the the variables and we're going to get a new set of parameters that we're going to enter so we're going to watch this and make sure that we complete and then i'll show you how to enter those variables a few moments later that the printer is done cycling through they came with these three parameters for kp ki and kd we need to now enter these as our new pid settings now we're going to enter the following command m 3 0 2 space p 3 7 period 1 4 space i 4 period 0 8 space d 8 4 period 5 8. then we will hit send then we're going to save this with the m500 command and then hit send again now we're going to change the e-steps to 130. to do this we're going to enter the following command i'm going to type in m 9 2 space e 1 3 0 send and then we're going to do that m 500 command again to save now you could have done both of these at one point to save both of them at once for the m500 but you know what i just did this anyway you say i already had the screen recording for it but anyways let's get to uh some test prints and uh see how this thing is working now [Music] [Music] hey pretty cool huh yeah pretty cool can i get a high five can i get a high five yeah time to go over some uh print results here right okay well it's one of my favorites here is the patchy carbon fiber by line once again does a great job no problem this was uh from my last settings just went right over and looks pretty darn good so then i did the uh pla sunlu pla now if you recall my last video i'll just throw it up there i lost the stringing well there's only one string in this one and this came out pretty darn nice and then of course a calibration cube can't complain here either maker's muse clearance intolerance test how do we do this time well as you see 0.5 works no problem 0.4 no problem 0.3 no problem 0.2 no problem and 0.15 yep and i uh even took a pair of pliers to it did not want to break free i mean if you look at it looks really like it was going to but the bottom had other ideas so it looks like uh it tolerance was just a little bit too tight so looks like i have some adjustments still that need to happen but still not too bad so now i wanted to go back into tpu i decided to print out this tire it's actually um only about a 65 size this took about 33 hours to complete i had to admit man this this came out really nice i mean it's you don't see any stringing at all it's a run flat tire it doesn't squish that is actually a to me a lot of rolling mass if you're going to put this on an rc car um yeah i mean considering this is actually smaller i would not use this on a high speed or off-road machine that's just a lot rolling mass on your differential but no nevertheless i think that's a really cool looking print so and um if you recall my last video i did um this irobot roomba tire and wow this doesn't even look the same i'll and i'll put the comparison video in the upper right hand corner yeah this came out great i mean like uh petg carbon fiber until you see how shiny it is but no complaints on that at all came out really nice so i uh said okay let me do a lizard so i did a nice little lizard here actually it's a gecko very nice i have no problem with adhesion at all with this tpu it's got a little bit of a little bit of a whisper from a couple of them on the top but it's hardly i didn't even notice until now that's when i knew about but these two i didn't then i decided to go with purple this is um some yo-yo y-o-y-i i don't know but again layer adhesion is no problem flex is nice this came off pretty clean except for again right where the nozzle lifted off for the last time i really like this color this is when it's become solid so then you have the infill and then everywhere you see that line that's where it's all solid so when you have to transluce it you actually will see it more but yeah i think it's pretty darn cool looking so definitely worthwhile to print in different materials okay well let's go ahead and wrap this up and uh give my final thoughts on the micro swiss direct drive kit ah almost forgot one final part yeah this uh file is available on their uh documentation it's extruder knob printed this out looks pretty darn nice so this way you can just mainly uh load the filaments if you so choose let's go ahead and snap this on as our finishing touch well there you have it the direct drive and all metal hot end from microswiss where my thoughts was assembly easy how's the fit and finish is there needs for improvement so well let's talk about the assembly first i thought the assembly is very straightforward granted i've already done a hot end swap before on this and a direct drive setup that was very similar and both of those video links are already in here for you to reference or you can just check out my channel for those um otherwise yeah it the online documentation all the steps were very well laid out to color pictures easily to reference all the parts were labeled yeah i had no problems with it the only thing i didn't see was where the bl touch goes but it's kind of a no-brainer it uses two screws and you just pop it back up now you do have to change your e-step values and i did that 130 and it worked perfectly on this machine while i was in there i did do the pid tuning which is not in there but i highly recommend that you do just to make sure that you have even temperatures on your hot end it doesn't take long between the two processes is less than five minutes so i would definitely do that if i how were you so now fit and finish when i saw that back plate it was like artwork i mean it's so nice to look at the precision milling and cutting it was such a shame to put this ugly fan shroud back on it kind of destroyed the look but every component fit together with precision i like the fact that the motor hangs off the back you can see the filament in the front everything loads easily you print out this knob you can turn it and i mean honestly it's so precisionly cut that i never had such an easier time to load and unload filament until now it's now not a problem so yeah it's uh honestly if you take a look i mean it it just everything just fits um now of course i think there is a two things that i caught on kind of early um one is this little e-clip that holds in the the bottom two okay it honestly i see how it works it does however if you ever put together a rc car kit back in the 80s and 90s before these were all pre-built those eclipse were everywhere in the assembly process i'm telling you there's a name for those even rc sparks channel calls on this as well as i i have done they're called jesus cliffs because when you try to snap them in they fling out and you're like oh geez where'd it go and you're hunting for that thing this isn't that bad but uh you push it in you better make sure it's nice and firm and it will it'll hold that tube in place but when you want to remove it you're gonna need some needle nose pliers to take it apart um second thing is when i was doing auto bed leveling it did collide with my precision binder clips that hold this nice plate on so yeah it you may um experience that because it does move your nozzle tip a little bit forward but honestly those are the only two gripes i have um it'll still be suggested that you feed you know since this is a direct drive you feed it from the top not through a whole boat and tube setup i mean it it honestly just makes more sense to have it you know a spool off to the side or on a shelf somewhere now get to it at some point and uh do that myself um otherwise um i'd like to know your comments on on this direct drive please comment below i will be doing a comparison video between this and the other one that i just did so please be on the lookout for that i really appreciate you tuning in if you could please subscribe that would be great it lets me know that you enjoy the content on this channel and um thanks again for watching tripods garage have a great day evening or weekend whenever you decide to watch this video we'll catch you the next time you

Channel: Tripods Garage

Views: 18,097

Keywords: 3D Printer, Noob, Unboxing, Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5+, E5+, Assembly, ADA, One Leg, Disability, Cancer, dji, wiring, diy, bigtreetech, skr1.4 turbo, BTT SKR V1.4 & SKR V1.4, 32-Bit Control Board, BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0 Display- Two Working Modes, BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0, TMC2208, TMC2208 V3.0, creality, CR-10, Creality Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5 Plus Ultimate Upgrade, creality silent board, silent board, PETG, Hotend, MircoSwiss, PETG Carbon Fiber, Carbon Fiber, Direct Drive, Ender 5 Plus Direct Drive

Id: CpudlWCshXk

Length: 33min 12sec (1992 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 31 2020