Micro Swiss All-Metal Hotend: Details and Installation (Ender 5)

and my ongoing series to really max out what the under-five is capable of I'll cover a lot of different components with a printer everything from the heated bed the motion of the printer and most recently the cooling I've tackled most of the subsystems of this printer one thing I haven't taken on though is what I'll need to do to the printer if I want to print the more exotic filaments things like nylon acrylic polycarbonate all of these different materials are going to require the hot end of the printer to get a lot hotter and the default hot end is it capable of it because it has a PTFE tube that goes way too close to the nozzle well that's where a company called micro Swiss comes in with their all-metal hotend and thanks to them sending this over we're finally going to tackle that on this printer as well as a new nozzle from them which I just recently picked up at the East Coast rep prep festival when I ran into them in person so that's what we're doing today right here on Kersey fabrications let's get started [Music] hey this is editor Chris from the future and I have to say this video got way more in-depth and longer than I'd ever planned for it to be when I first started filming it because of that I've decided to break it into some smaller videos so that it's easier for you to digest and honestly easier for me to edit so in this video I'm going to cover the hot in itself I'm going to talk about why you need a metal hot end if you want to print the higher temperature filaments what micro Swiss has to offer then I'm also of course going to cover the installation and the changes to your slicer so that's what you're going to get in this video stay tuned to the end of the video when I talk about what's coming up next thanks for watching so to start off let me explain how I'm going to kind of organize this video because I'm going to try to cover a lot of material and a short amount of time so first of all I'm going to start with the hot in itself I'm going to talk about the components of a hot end and why you need to switch to an all-metal hotend in order to be able to print the more exotic high temperature filaments from there I'm going to do the installation we're going to make changes in your slicer that are needed for an all-metal hotend then we're gonna do some test prints to compare to my sample prints that came from the before the change hot end then in part two I'm going to cover nozzles I'm going to talk about what nozzles are typically made of I'm going to talk about what micros whizzes nozzles are made of and then what their new nozzles they just released is made of and why it's important to your overall printing then we'll install this one do the same sample print see if we notice any noticeable difference whether any of this is really improving the quality of your prints or just improving the longevity of your nozzles and the consistencies of your prints over time so from here let's jump straight into the computer I got some stuff to show you on my screen because I think that's going to be the most efficient way to get through material and show you exactly what I'm talking about so let's switch to the computer so here we are on my desktop as I mentioned I'm going to basically share a lot of information with you this way well I chose to do it this way instead of a lot of on spring graphics and stuff had to generate is two reasons one let's be honest this is a lot easier for me less the stuff I have to generate but this also shows you the source material you can always go check these out at the top you'll see the web addresses I ended up starting to geek out on this material law there's a lot of really cool material science here particularly when you get into the different types of metals their thermal conductivity their hardness and so I ended up with a lot of data here I wanted to move through quickly and so as you see we'll go through the tabs I'll explain it all to you hopefully I'm gonna give you a little bit more in this video then you typically see when you talk about all-metal hotends so if you're into the science of this or the engineering of this hopefully you'll find this to be a little bit more informative than what you typically get so right here on this screen let's take a look at what micros place is offering so this is the micros with hot end you can see various images here what it looks like installed the components of the hot end and everything you'll get in your package here's the price right here for you to take a look at 6350 is for this kit which comes with everything you need to install it on a CR 10 or an indoor printer comes with their standard brass nickel plated it's a special nickel plating we'll get into that nozzle and the 6350 one of the questions I know a lot of people ask why am I paying for the 6350 for a microsystem instead of buying one that I may be able to get for 10 bucks either on Amazon or on some of the overseas site well I actually wanted to delve into that as well until I talked to my Chris quiz at these coasts RepRap festival and I found out that basically what you're getting here is they are basically hand manufacturing each of these themselves in their shop these are not farmed out overseas they're not farmed out even to another shop here in the US they are actually the manufacturer in-house in Minnesota at their offices so what you're paying for is the scrutiny of each of these that it is being milled to their specifications and that you're getting a quality product every time so what are you paying for you're paying for engineering you're paying for the care and the time that goes into producing a quality product and that's important not only for the overall performance of the product but when it comes to how do you want your 3d printer components manufactured so moving on let's take a look at the anatomy of a hot end so here's a standard hot end here's the standard cotton that you're gonna be getting with York reality printer as I said this is obviously our see our Tim models this is the indoor models what you're getting is there's a PTFE tube that is going to run all the way through your pneumatic coupler which you should be familiar with which is what you have to pull out if you change the nozzle and retighten it's going to go through the heat sink and then it's going to go into this it's going to go into this heat break or throat of the nozzle right here which in the stop heat sink is going to be made out of stainless steel and then that goes all the way down to touch your nozzle right here this is the heat block that actually heats everything up and right here you're gonna have your heater cartridge and thermistor that's reading your temperature and obviously here's your nozzle one note if you ever have using of filament from your nozzle most likely what's going on is right here in this area these are not making direct contact and so what happens is as this melt as this becomes a liquid or a semi liquid it's going to leak out here and start coming through these threads because it's not tight this is why anytime you change the nozzle you should be pulling back your PTFE tube tightening your nozzle almost all the way pushing your PTFE tube down and then tightening your nozzle the rest of the way to make this a liquid tight seal just a little side note that I thought people would be interested in so what makes the all-metal hotend different so here's a microswitch hot end and you'll notice there's no PTFE tube in any of this drawing why is that well the PTFE tube and this one your pneumatic coupler is going to be up here and your PTFE tube is going to stop right here meaning your PTFE tube at that point is only a guide it's not actually holding any molten liquid or molten filament I should say and so there's nothing to lead your filaments going to go all the way through your heat sink down into your heat break this heat break is a titanium alloy now they claim it's almost three times lower thermal conductivity that's probably about right it's between two and three times less conductive because it's titanium than what you were going to get with stainless still which means that the heat that is being generated here which is going to be much higher in these exotic filaments is not going to be able to creep back up into this heat sink as well making sure that hopefully your filament only stays molten in this area which will prevent jams coming up into this part of the heat sink so that's what you're getting in an all-metal hotend is this single line of filament that goes all the way from your PTFE tube which stops early and then goes straight from there through an all metal shaft down into your nozzle so going back to why are we paying for my Christmas well this machining is obviously going to become very important in the overall performance of this hotted because now since the all-metal portion is from here all the way down to here these components being machined accurately smoothly is even more important than it was in the stock cotton because if you had a PTFE tube from here to here then the only thing that has to be really machined well is your nozzle which we've covered in previous videos so now that I've covered why an all-metal hotends let's actually do the installation I'm going to go through the whole process here I'm not actually going to walk you through it though micro Swiss has a good tutorial on their website as well as countless other youtubers that have already covered this if you need some additional help obviously going to record myself doing it might have some little comments along the way but let's get this thing apart and take a look at actually how it's done and what it looks like completed hey editor Chris here again and I've got some bad news the next section of video I was using a new setup and a new camera that hadn't used before at least not in that situation and unfortunately I didn't notice this whole next section is in and out of focus a lot the camera just could not focus on what I was doing and I didn't notice that at the time so I apologize to your eyes now where possible I did go in I filmed some b-roll to put on top of it so that you could see what I was talking about because I still want if possible for you to get a good clear picture particularly of the test prints there are some parts of it obviously now that installation is done I can't go back and refill mitt easily so again apologies hopefully the information is really good and that you can still enjoy that part of the video one more thing the test prints are all printed out of filament one trafic red filament I pulled this out of the package out of my filament one Profi box and I absolutely fell in love with this color that's why you're seeing it in this video this is not sponsored by filament one I purchased this myself so I really hope you enjoy those prints this stuff prints great head over to filament one links in the description if you like this filament too and we'd like to get you a roll thanks for watching again so before we go any further I've done some pretest printing obviously to make sure that we have a good baseline for what this default configuration can do before we go and change things so for this project I was in three benchmarks first up we have our stock Vinci so this is the bench everyone's come to know and love as you can see I actually replace my p.3d nozzle with a stock brass nozzle for this test you can see quality is absolutely amazing on this everyone knows this benchmark pretty well that's why I chose it so you see the only real noticeable defects on this one is there's some weird stringing down here I couldn't get rid of think it has to do with the slicer more than anything because you can see there's no stringing here no stringing here then we're aware that you would normally see it so it's really weird kurosawa there for me but as you see layer consistency layer consistency is excellent bottom layers look really good these sort of notches are what you typically see from the slicer so there it is and of course I also have my p 3d nozzle showing pretty much the identical results to that you can see nothing really noticeably different quality still excellent compared to the brass nozzle this is their aluminum nozzle hi We're excellent thermal transfer see looks great for the second benchmark I chose let's make sure that we don't have any stringing problems with our default configuration so we have our standard stringing test this is the stock brass nozzle you see no stringing whatsoever there's been no cleanup at all done on this and looks beautiful and same thing for the p.3d nozzle this is aluminum nozzle absolutely no noticeable stringing beautiful prints there and then of course I want kind of a real model we want something that actually is going to show off quite a lot of direction changes overhangs just just the plethora of things that we care about when we look at prints and so what I did I went with this guy so this is a Deadpool model I'll share the link and artists for this model on the screen and I chose this one actually for a very specific reason yes it's a bust yes it's similar to other bus but what's great about this this is a no support bus meaning we have actual overhangs here which as you can see look excellent there's a little bit of notice here that there's something going on but overall for something without supports this is looking accident nothing under this chin looks great I also chose this because they had these with the katanas back here with no supports this would be an excellent place to see stringing if that was going to happen now you see there's no stringing at all on this these my settings are really dialed in for this configuration you can see no problems looks great same thing with the one with my p.3d nozzle that last one works of course the brass nozzle this is the PD p3d do you can see again just minor lair overhang issues here nothing major for not having you support you see layer consistency really really nice as a point to layer height see a little bit of overhang issues here but overall an excellent print these are our benchmarks this is what we're trying to get even as we change hot ends so let's move on to what's in the micro Swiss box so here's the micro Swiss container I've already opened it obviously taking a look at what's in here you can see this is specifically the model for the indoor printers for the C are tens let's take a look if you need a link to the installation instructions for your smart device you can take a look at this see our code here there's actually a URL here what we have we have a new heating block too nice screws there to hold in my heater cartridge standard everything people have seen these before on almost any printer standard design I have a new screw there obviously to hold it on thermistor here is the actual heat sink and let me put this down so we can take a look at this real quick and just so you know I've got to see the paper down here on top of my glass hotbed where I can put all this I'm not going to mess up my glass here we have probably the two most important parts of what you're purchasing here so as you knows this is the actual heat sink beautifully milled heat sink all the connectors really really smooth you see here this is where we're actually gonna put in our Bowden tube and hopefully you can see here you probably see the reflection in there the Bota tubes actually only going to go down to somewhere in this area which means this whole section here is going to be heated but there's not going to be about in tube to you know help with any any retraction issues so we have to take that into account when we are setting that up in our slicer see very nice nice machined part here this is the titanium heat brick we were talking about this is going to go into here there's a grub screw right here that holds it in you can see very tight Hebraic here very small the only thing he's just big enough to let our filament through and that of course plugged in directly to the heat block that we saw a minute ago unless we got in here comes with our the these are the the pieces that tighten up this when we put on our boat into keeps everything snug make sure we don't have any done have the any ability for the Bowden tube to move back and forward as it perhaps it's really cool I noticed these are actually 3d printed so good on them for not actually having to mold those or anything like that have two new screws to attach it to the back plate here as well as to grub screws one for backup just like these we're only gonna be one of them but it did come with two finally in the Box we have a nice new silicon sock to cover up our heating block we have the default nozzle that it comes with now this isn't obviously just a standard brass nozzle this is actually a brass coated in a proprietary coating that we're gonna get to later I'm not gonna cover it here but this coating here is a hardened coating it will make this nozzle last longer than your standard brass nozzle so this is also an upgrade and last thing in the Box a tool this is obviously gonna be the right size for our thermal break here and it may even be the right size for the nozzles there we go that's everything in the package now let's get started I'm probably gonna have to speed through some of this part because obvious I don't want to bore you with taking this all apart but I'll comment where necessary [Music] see is that loose enough to pull out no just what I was worried about see if I push it from the other side yeah that is stuck in there which is pretty common if you've been printing with one of these for a while I'm gonna pull this grouse screw all the way out very good set that down someplace safe yeah all this coming off it here is hot all right let's see if I can push on it from this side and be able to come out this is real world here guys this is not a little tutorial ooh yeah now that's not budging this is heated I'm wondering if we have thermal expansion going on here that's making it tight so since everything is already out we may have some thermal expansion issue I'm gonna go ahead and do a cool down right here there we go maybe it cooled down enough all right so that should have pulled both the semester and the hot end and there's some dunk in there put that is there I'm like burnt up real quick before we go any further let's compare this one there new one we're gonna be using this this one the new ones just looks like about the same thickness and the same overall width which is actually really nice because what that means is that I don't have to worry about my nice cooling solution I've spent so long figuring out whether it's going to fit or not because this and this are not geometrically the same but dimensionally the same so we're good there alright moving right along now let's go ahead and attach this using the new ones and notice the new stairs we got our countersunk screws that's what we're using those instead and using the same bit just a little bit as we nice thing about these countersunk ones as I was a little worried so as you're starting to attach it they're like well this is Wiggly am I going to get it level am I going to get in the right place but since they're counter saw it is going to push it right to where it's supposed to be it by tightening a little bit back and forth each way and in a ride or this was to be that's tight it's not moving at all okay here's the heat block you notice this one as opposed to the original one this is one I'm used to on some of the other printers I have instead of it being like this and the other thing holding it on as a Grove screw this one actually is a pressure fit clamp that is being held on with two different screws this one's only being held on with that one gross degree [Music] [Music] all right everything's done now let's head over to our slicer setting to make sure we have everything set up before we try to run a test prep so here I am on my slicing program these are what I called my into five benchmark quality settings what we usually care about when we go all-metal is this retraction distance which my default is six and 15 obviously 15 is really slow seeing people bump this up to 25 that may work fine I haven't tried 25 15 s been working great for me so I haven't touched it I wanted to see what the recommended settings were so I had micro Swiss sent over one of their files they sent over one for the simplified 3d so in this file I was able to open it up with a text editor those here are their retraction settings retraction distance they have is four and if you look at the speed it's set to 2,400 2,400 being millimeters per minute if we divide that by 60 we get 40 millimeters per second so I could try with my default settings there being nothing wrong with that but the first thing I want to do let's try with their recommended setting obviously they've tested this out they've tested this out for a CR 10 very similar setup to any of the indoor printers so we go in here gonna change my retraction distance to 4 i retraction speed to 40 and the first thing I want to print this is my simplest of my test prints so I'm gonna try and print this stringing test first and see how it does I'm gonna hit prepare you know it says it's only gonna take 14 minutes to print we're going to test that so one thing I didn't mention to begin with what we want is to make sure that our new all-metal hotend can print just as well as we go into with the stock one we don't want a specialized hot in for the exotic filament and then a different hot end for the standard PLA so what I want to do before we ever try to print the nylons and stuff like that what I want to do let's make sure that my standard PLA prints just as well with this nozzle and new hot end as we were getting before on these test prints so now that we've got our retraction settings set up we're going to go ahead let's print the string test see if we get the same results well that's the end of part one I hope you've enjoyed this part and I hope you're looking forward to part two I'm actually going to show you the test results of printing PLA with this hot end as well as the test results of printing several other high temp filaments with this hot end you're going to get to take a look at different materials and then in part three possibly part four we're also going to take a look at different nozzles that you can use on this hot end from micro Swiss well again if you've enjoyed this video please hit the like button please leave a comment let me know what you think should I left this whole video together or do you kind of like it broken up into pieces as well as please share this video on other social media platforms that helps the channel a ton gets me some new viewers and helps share this information with the larger community again I am Chris and this has been Kiersey fabrication I'll see you in the next video [Music] you you

Channel: Kersey Fabrications

Views: 42,659

Keywords: 3d printing, micro swiss, 3d printer, all metal hot end, all metal hotend, micro swiss all metal hotend, ender 5, micro swiss hotend installation, micro swiss install, ender 5 upgrades, plated nozzle, micro swiss all metal, all metal hotend stringing, ender 5 plus, ender 5 3d printer, ender 5 must have upgrades, ender 5 3d printer upgrades, creality ender 5 upgrades, best ender 5 upgrades

Id: LD6vQt4Z32Y

Length: 26min 51sec (1611 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 25 2019