Micros Swiss All Metal Hotend

hi this Irv Shapiro with the doctor of Acts Channel and a couple days ago I published a video about upgrading an Ender reality ender printer from the ability to print at 250 C to 275 see the video generated a surprising number of comments where people indicated that they've had trouble with micro Swiss all-metal hotends I then searched the web and found a lot of people seem to have trouble with this on the other hand an equal number or quite a number more love this head end so I wanted to understand why some people have difficulty and other people myself included had very good experiences with the micro swiss hot end so stay tuned and let's learn something together [Music] the problems reported fall into two general categories the first is that the hot end jams in particular if you finish a print turn your printer off walk away come back a few days later it's very difficult to get the old filament out first problem reported the second problem reported was people saying they just can't get good prints with PLA so I'd like to address both of those topics before I address those topics though we need to look at the big picture a all-metal hotend from micro Swiss or anyone else for that matter or even any style of hot end is just part of an overall system let's look at this picture in this picture you'll see that you have a component that pulls the filament off the reel or spool of filament that's called the extruder you then need to guide it into the hot end that's either a Bowden tube on a Bowden style printer or even on a printer very often that is a direct-drive printer there may be a very small piece of PF te filament that is used to guide the filament through the cooling block into the melt zone of your hand every time you have a transition between one type of material and another you potentially have a place where your filament can jam more about that in a minute in the case of the micro Swiss all-metal hotend it's delivered as a kit you can look at the picture here there are a number of different parts there's the actual heater block on the bottom on top of that you have a heat break a little titanium tube that is a different metal so it will not get as hot it's the heat block that will allow the filament to melt in the heat block or soften in the heat block and melt in the nozzle but ideally not melt above the heat break the titanium - then you have a cooling block which has the fans on it that's where you'd ideally like your filament to be relatively cool not really melted at all so there are a number of different transitions inside this hot end now we need to think about how temperature is controlled in those transitions as I indicated you have the heater block you have the heat break and then you have the cooling block let's look at the size of the cooling block in this picture on the left you'll see the size of the cooling block on the micro Swiss ident on the right and you can see it's a round cylinder it's a much larger cooling block on the Prusa i3 nk3 that will make it easier for the filament to cool more rapidly because there's more surface area to radiate heat in the case of the Prusa so you need to make sure that if you're using a micro Swiss hot end that your fans are operating properly what happens when your filament jams in your micro Swiss hot end well my guess is I'm not a hundred percent sure this is a guess my guess is the filament heats up when the filament heats up it expands if there's a little bit of heat creep and the filament starts to heat up above the heat break it expands there also every place there's a transition between the melt zone and the heat break the heat break and the cooling block the cooling Bach and the Bowden tube there's the possibility that when your filament expands it will expand into tiny gaps between those components so number one when you assemble your micro Swiss hot-end make sure everything is snugly pushed together so here's what happens you print something your filament expands a little bit maybe it gets stuck on one of these transitions you turn your printer off you go back you turn your printer on you go to prepare PLA and heats a 200 degrees see just at the bottom of the full melt temperature for most PLA you go to pull it out it's stuck in one of those transition points how do you solve that it's really quite easy all you need to do is heat your hot end to 230 instead of 200 so instead of going to prepare PLA go to your menu on your printer case of an Ender it's its control temperature nozzle set your nozzle to 230 degrees that will be hot enough to make sure that the filament in the melt zone is fully melted and if there's any heat creep it starts to creep up during this process then and this is key push your filament down so take and manually push some filament through go to the front panel and extrude some filament extrude a little bit of film until you see coming out of the nozzle then pull it back out it'll come back out I have never had this fail to work now another trick if you just don't want to deal with setting the temperature a little higher in order to pull the filament out you can pull it out right away when you're done printing or you can have the printer do it for you if you look on the screen here you'll see the g-code for the end of print g-code in this case in Kira that I have for my under printer this is the stock cheat code you'll see here on the screen g1e - - that says pull out pull back 2 millimeters of filament change that to a bigger number if you change that to a bigger number you'll pull more filament back now what's a disadvantage when you go to print your filament will have to move further through your Bowden tube before it's ready to print so you'll need to have a long enough waste line that's the line that's printed off and on the side or the top before your print start to make sure your filament is in the right place to print so those techniques either heat up your hot end a little bit hotter extrude then pull out pull out your filament right away or update your G code to pull back on the filament a bit at the end of every print well I'll sell the first problem now let's look at print quality I printed a number of really nice prints and I find overall the characteristics are very similar to the stock extruder it's really not better but it's not worse so let's look at what I did number one let's look at the screen I changed my retraction I normally run at six point five millimeters twenty-five millimeters per second yes I know 25 millimeters per second is slower than what most slicers default a mender printer or many printers do I learned this by watching a makers Muse video I recommend you subscribe to the maker Musee wonderful stuff where he did a number of tests and found that a slower retraction speed worked better then I printed two tests first I printed a calibration cat this is really a beautiful print a little bit of wringing but no different than any other print I've printed on an Ender 3 or 5 printer next I printed a stringing test this came out perfect absolutely perfect now this is an easy stringing test I'll show you a hard string test in a minute and finally just to make sure I could print something for fun but IDs prints were all relatively small because I wanted to be able to do this testing quickly I printed this flexi dolphin beautiful print this was in hatch box black PL I printed it 206 degrees this was madder hacker build PLA also printed 206 in both cases I like to run my build plate at 60 degrees Celsius then I went and I printed a much more complicated print the Kickstarter printer torture test as far as I'm concerned and I did two of them at two different temperatures both these prints are really quite nice I'll put a big picture on the screen except for extreme stringing along the top really a little bit of difficulty with those tau thin towers in addition on both of them I this is over extrude it a bit because all the pins won't come out so these aren't perfect but how does that compare well this was printed about I don't know seven months ago some of the towers are knocked off a little bit and it's exactly the same this was my ender 5 stock out-of-the-box stock extruder couple the pins won't come out in fact if you look at this overhang here this is much better on this new printer it's almost perfect with the micro Swiss but I've also have a different extruder I different different Bowden tube so this is not quite as good as the micro Swiss print but the stringing is a problem is it possible to eliminate the stringing on this print the answer is yes so this is printed on a stock Prusa and this is printed on a stock ultimate - from monoprice the monoprice ultimate - is a brand-new printer axonal excellent print quality precise mk3 also always has excellent pro crawly print quality assembled this $1,000 printer this comes assembled it's a five hundred fifty dollar printer this is printed on a under five but I expect you to get the same results on an Ender three Pro so we're talking two to three hundred fifty dollar printers so yes their difference what else is different both of the printers that printed these so beautifully our direct extruder printers and so the Bowden tube because it's a longer path for your filament makes it more difficult to get the retraction just right do I think I can do better yes I'm going to play for retraction I play with temperature I think I can do better but when I have a print and I'm fortunate I have multiple printers when I have a print that needs excellent excellent towers that are very narrow and thin or screen can be a problem I'll print them on one of my other printers so what is my conclusion number one jamming will not be a problem if you just take the filament out when you're done if you don't want to do that modify your g-code or heat up your hot into a hotter temperature extrude and then retract number two print quality I think it's the same I don't think it's much better you know I can't be sure that this is better on this print then it was six seven eight months ago on my original under five unmodified because of the nozzle it might be something else that I've upgraded I have a simi cnc upgraded extruder I've Capricorn tube and this is a different filament so it's not a fair test the idea here was not to be scientific but basically to answer the question can you upgrade to a micro Swiss hot end and use it reliably with PLA without it jamming all the time getting good quality prints as far as I'm concerned the answer is absolutely yes so if you've enjoyed this video if you've learned something about printers in general about architecture about these techniques give me a thumbs up please leave a comment I love getting comments I love getting comments where people disagree with me where they point out mistakes where they agree that's how we're gonna continue to learn things together [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)

Views: 74,662

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Id: 3RF8W57iAg0

Length: 13min 51sec (831 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 04 2019