How to install the Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder on a CR10S Pro V2 with a BL Touch.

hey guys in today's video i want to go over the steps that you need to take to be able to install the micro swiss direct drive extruder to a cr-10s pro the extruder kit that microswift makes is specifically for the cr-10 and the ender 3 they also support other models but they do not support the cr-10s pro v2 directly uh it can be done but there are some things that you need to be aware of and you need to prepare for it before you disassemble the printer if you only have one 3d printer like i do you got to make sure you have all your parts created before you start this upgrade because once you take it apart you can't use it until you complete the upgrade i emailed micro swiss's technical support to ask if there was a way to do it and uh they sent me the parts lists of the items that i needed to purchase from them along with a link to a thingyverse stl file to create a bracket shroud that will hold the stock fans that come with the cr-10s pro v2 along with the bl touch and uh so so this this is the this is the fan setup that uh that i printed up so they they sent this file to me i went in and i printed it and uh after i saw this thing i thought now this thing is huge and it's it's heavy the thing with doing this upgrade is that it does add a lot of weight to the gantry and this this in my opinion aggravates the situation even more because it is so heavy and bulky uh anyway there's going to be a lot of recalibration involved with putting this one in because the bl touch will be way out here it won't be anywhere near the original position where it's at and uh anyway i thought it was very challenging to get it to work this way as opposed to trying a different way another thing i didn't like either is that they designed this part uh not very well because the the fan you have to you have to grind and you have to sand to be able to get this fan to fit in here i didn't like that it's not uh very well designed so i'm scrapping this all together and i decided to go with a different method uh so let's let's get into it let's get into what's in the box so you guys can see what the challenges are going to be alright so we got the little link to the instruction video instructions they provide a nice little sticker here you got an extension cable for the extruder motor screws and hardware for the tensioner looks like some mounting bolts for the for the wheels and a little piece of capricorn bowden tube i also have a 3d printed guide since we're removing the extruder from its original position you're still going to need a guide to get the filament to the direct drive extruder a few zip ties and then the the bracket now the bracket doesn't come this way uh it has a bunch of swirl marks and stuff on it but i took this to the vapor blast cabinet and removed all of those machining marks that way in my opinion i think it looks better like this so let's get started and talk about what some of the challenges are going to be i'm going to go ahead and pull the shroud cover off along with the fans all right guys so this is what it looks like all taken apart so i've got the fan shroud completely off so that's that's this part here i've taken it completely off i've unbolted the fans from the inside and the outside parts cooling fan has also been removed and the the challenge with this particular upgrade is that this bracket wasn't specifically designed to work with this model uh cr-10s pro v2 if you can see by lining up so these are the the the spots where the wheels go so if you just kind of line it up you can you can tell that the original bracket is wider to one side the hot end is offset a little bit more to one side the original shroud will definitely not fit and uh since it's shifted over this way a little bit the bl touch is not going to fit in the original position none of these holes line up with any of these places uh so those are a couple of the challenges that are presented by doing this upgrade but i i did find a solution that i think works really good the uh the ender three uh works with works with this with this kit so uh if i had an ender three all i would do is just transfer the under three components to this new uh bracket so you can see the fan this fan shroud lines up goes right there the hot end sits behind it uh and then what i had to do is create a a part here so this is a 3d printed component let me readjust this camera so i created this little 3d part uh in on shape and it needs a little uh recessed part on the on the base to allow the bracket that holds the the fan for the heat sink and the screw that holds that that bracket to to to occupy so that's why i had to make that little groove i'll include all these files free of charge you'll have the stl file so if you guys are interested in doing this upgrade you won't have to um go nuts trying to figure out how you're going to do it another thing too that needs to be done is this this little fan here that comes with the ender 3 bracket it uses some two millimeter bolts to hold it or screws to hold it down and you have to drill and tap the ender three bracket with a three millimeter by point six zero millimeter thread pitch to be able to use the uh stock fan and bolts that came with the cr-10s pro uh anyway let me go ahead and pull the hot end off this was something that i couldn't show you guys yesterday in the last video that i that i put out is this is the micro swiss all metal hot end so that's what it looks like behind the shroud another upgrade that i made that i forgot to mention in the previous video is i changed the uh the the heater all right i had to rescue my dog she had some stickers in her in her paw uh okay getting back to this so another thing that i had changed is the um the the heater element so the heater element is uh i went from a 40 watt which is the original uh element so it's a 24 volt 40 watt heater element to a 50 watt 24 volt heater element this will allow me after i do a firmware upgrade to run hotter temperatures it's all metal hotend so i have no damage uh no no chance of damaging the bowden tube uh it is going to be converted to direct drive anyway so the section of boron 2 is going to be about this long and the great thing about this all metal hotend is that the bowden tube only comes down about half an inch into it and then the rest of it is just machine dial precision machined out to allow the filament to go down it hits this this uh this part right here which is uh called a heat break it's made out of titanium and it doesn't conduct heat uh well at all so the heat from the heater block below uh doesn't make it up this this little uh heat break so it has no way to really heat up the heatsink very much so anyway let me uh go ahead and take this thing this thing off and uh we'll we'll start the the conversion so i'm gonna i'm gonna move the camera off to the side the next thing you got to do is we got to release the uh the the tension on the on the arm here so we can take this bracket out here and your 3d printer should have come with a tool bag which will have all the necessary allen keys in there the next thing we need to do is remove the the bottom wheel now allow the thing to come off all right better idea would have been to remove the wheel before we move the belt moving the belt because now this thing is going to roll around i also use some thread lock or something on this man all right i got it off i'm gonna go ahead and pull off the rest of the wheels and then i'll restart the video once i start assembling the uh the other part oh by the way i'm gonna take these screws off and i'm gonna use those for the pl touch all right guys just a quick update so this uh one screw here bolt was uh stripped so i had to resort to a uh an easy out if you guys ever run into problems with screw nut coming out man get yourself one of these easy out kits take it out in two seconds all right let's finish uh transferring these these parts over so i'm not gonna be using i'm not going to be using these screws these are the ones these are the original ones but the micro swiss direct drive extruder brings its own set of screws so i'm going to use those all right guys so the little wheels they just uh bolt on the uh you don't use you don't use any of these little spacer things the one that you are gonna use that you're gonna keep is the concentric one so this is like an offset uh type of a spacer that allows for uh adjustment of the the roller tension okay so this one goes with the protruding side towards towards this way like this okay so this is going to be the bolt uh the wheel through the adjuster nut and and then into this side and then it secures with a locking uh locking nut right here okay [Applause] so this this one this one wheel gets the bottom wheel gets the washer and i'm not going to tighten it but i'm just putting putting the wheel on if i got to take it back off to get the thing on then i will but i believe it i believe it'll work just like this and these come with thread lock before i tighten any of this down i want to make sure that it's going to fit properly on the track so i'm going to go ahead and reposition the camera i could test it right everything looks good misplaced my allen key all right guys and i'm just tightening these wheels um just until there's i don't feel any up and down play so you don't want to over crank them but tight enough that they don't move up and down you okay you're gonna need to take the wheel off to put put it on [Applause] guys next thing i'm going to do is just hook up the belts all right next thing we got to do is take the extruder off the original extruder off so that part is back here let me uh flip the camera around [Applause] so make sure you unplug it first before you take it off we gotta remove the uh the gear on the uh on the little stepper motor so you can use one of the included allen keys that comes with your kit and you should have one that fits in here add your little gear off and the kit has three of the screws that have the countersinks on them so these are the three that go in these places here and then this is a different screw i guess that must hold some kind of a tension or arm or something else excuse my little makeshift windscreen back there the sun started to come in on me all right guys next thing you want to do is uh take your stepper motor and it's going to go plug side up i think we're going to do it plug side up i don't know i haven't decided yet plug side up or maybe we'll turn it this way um let's see all the wires are gonna go this way yeah i don't know i'll start with the plug side up if i need to make a change i'll do that and uh three of the screws that come with the kit are countersunk they have countersunk heads on them so that those are these three screws right here and you can put these three screws in right now just don't put in this last one because there's an arm that goes in there that we have to install first i'm trying to do this one-handed here guys so bear with me and i don't tighten all the allen keys down i just leave them loose so the motor can move around a little bit if it has to and then we'll tighten them down at the end all right next up is going to be this little arm that goes over here so inside your kit you'll have a a little uh arm and then uh the screw that holds it i'll show you what those look like so this is here's the little hardware bag for it so there's uh there's a spring there's a long screw machine screw um there's a little uh gear here with a grub screw and then an adjuster wheel what we want is this little this little one right here so we want this one and then uh the the little arm that comes in the other package okay now we can now we can snug down all these all these screws i'm not gonna make them crazy tight because they don't have to be but tighten them enough that they're not going to come loose from vibration okay now another thing that we're going to need is the little gear that goes over here the one that comes with the grub screw and there's there's two ways that this thing can face so you want to face it with the grub screw facing the stepper motor so like this so i'm gonna i'm gonna turn this to the side so i can tighten this properly so the stepper motor has a flat side and that's that's where you want to line up with the grub screw so just like that right so i'm going to go ahead and tighten it down a little bit now this one again gets tightened but not crazy tight because it's a small it's a small grub screw and the next thing is the uh the little tensioner so this is this is three parts so you have the uh the little uh long screw it's got two machine sides on it that are flat and if you look at the the side here this is shaped like an oval so the flat side goes in that oval and then the spring goes on first so spring a little tensioner arm slide it through and then uh put the adjuster nut on this side now microswiss recommends as a good starting point to have the end of the screw even with the uh cap so a little tender so i'm just gonna tighten it just to where it's even i'll show you i'll show you on this side what that looks like so there you can if you can see it right so it's right flush with the uh with the end of that screw and that's pretty much it i mean now the rest of it is just bolt on the uh the hot end so i'll go ahead and do that next put the shroud on and everything else and then work on the wiring the wiring might be a little tricky because it has to be everything has to be routed on this side so i'm gonna have to disconnect all of this stuff and bring it over to this side uh because it'll get pinched at the top of the uh the gantry so i don't want that to happen all right so let's see here um okay next we got to get this kind of pull this bowden tube out of here so these you just push down and then pull the pull the bowden tube out of there you go all right so i'm gonna get the bowling tube out of the way for now and this this kit brings a little a little stubby piece of bowden tube that's designed to fit right up in this in this thing here and if you see if you look carefully at the top of this the top of that is shaped just like the bowden tube so the bowden tube would go in like this and stop at the top so let me go ahead and install the bowden tube on the uh on the all metal hot end and then we'll slide it into position and screw it down [Music] alright guys so my bowdoin tube is too long so right there is uh about as high as it can go and it looks like i got maybe another i don't know two millimeters so i'm going to take a quick measurement here see if i can figure out what the distance difference is it looks like i got to remove about four millimeters of bowden tube all right i'm going to cut off four millimeters of bowden tube and if you gotta cut your boat into make sure you got some kind of a thing that will cut it straight this is the one that comes with the capricorn bowden tube kit and it cuts it straight so let me pull it out of here cut four millimeters off and then we'll try it again all right guys i nipped off uh four millimeters off of this let's try it again see if we can get it to fit now and there it goes right there perfect make sure it's nice and straight yeah all right guys and one one one thing that i do i like to do with this is if if you look this thing will wobble left and right so i like to push it up so it's uh it's it's flat against the machine surfaces and then i'll just tighten them up a little bit at a time and that that'll make sure that this is nice and square and it's not off to one side so i'm gonna go ahead and tighten these down again not not crazy tight but tight enough the vibration's not gonna loosen it all right next up is going to be to um i'm going to disconnect this bl touch for now and it has a little glob of hot glue here on it so i'm going to pick that off or cut that off okay so uh make sure that you pay attention to i'm sorry about the light here the lights start to get real bad on us here so pay attention to the way this goes i don't think you can mess this up or get it backwards but uh the red side is on the on the on the right side so i plan to mount it uh something like this so my red side is going to be facing the back so i'm just going to gently pull this thing out of here [Applause] so the way this fan works is it faces this way so label facing in okay now next up is to bolt the blower fan on the side and then i'm gonna put the duct in last at the bottom so for now i'm gonna try to figure out how i'm gonna put this thing in here and i think i'm going to try to get the bl touch wire to come through one of these grooves if possible trying to make it as neat as this can be guys i think i'm going to nip this this little top section here using my nippers to try to get this thing to fit [Applause] so the idea here is to get these wires all nice and neat and what i'm doing is i'm pushing the shroud to the right as much as possible to give those wires as much room as they can get and then we'll figure figure out a way to protect those really nicely and we may still have to play around with that a little bit all right next up is going to be the bl touch bracket so here's the little bracket that i 3d printed you know what now probably a good time to mount the bl touch so let's i'm gonna go ahead and mount the bl touch now because it might be easier to do it now than later so i got it i'm gonna i wanted to go like this so i wanted to go right here so i'm gonna go ahead and screw it down and i'm using the original screws that came with the sierra tennis pro they should work they should work good oops found a problem here can't tighten the one of the screws alright guys so that's mounted let me try to see if i can plug in the bl touch i may have to take it back down so like we said it's going to go red side facing this way so i'm just going to push this down give myself as much room as possible try to plug this thing in because i'm going to battle with this a little bit let's see if i can get this thing in here man all right i think i got it all right let's flip it around now screw this thing in guys what i may have to do is turn on the machine and raise the uh the gantry up that way i can get at that bl touch all right let me do that real quick and then i'll restart the video all right guys there you have it so that's uh that's the whole thing i'm going to go ahead and install the duct on the bottom and then we'll check it for clearance make sure everything there's enough space and then we'll move it inside turn it on and start testing all right guys there it is in action a couple things that uh still need to work out is i need to adjust the homing position another little problem i ran into is since the bl touch is more over to the left actually it's to the left by about eight millimeters i had to create a little plastic part let me show you where it's at here so this this little piece of plastic right there um that slides on top of the end of the bracket and what it does is when it comes over here to the right when it comes over here to the right it makes contact with the switch telling the uh the computer that uh hey you know uh this is this is your limit because what was happening is when the bl touch was coming down to uh try to take measurements it was off off the build plate uh which is not good so anyway got that got that part fixed uh right now i'm doing a a big print it's a roller uh that's gonna get a couple of bearings and that's gonna be for the the uh the feed here because right now the the factoric reality mount for the filament is it's kind of cheesy really i mean they just goes on top of a tube and it rubs and makes all kinds of racket um so anyway this this this one's gonna be much better and then the wires are all nice and neat the only thing i gotta work out still is maybe maybe wire tie right right there or put a like some tape or something to kind of neaten up the end of that stocking that's on top of the wires but for the most part it came out really good i'm real happy with it it excludes like crazy which is what i wanted before it used to the filament would come out like toothpaste it seemed like the machine was putting a lot of effort to push that filament through the bowden tube and man now it comes out like a syringe i mean that thing just it's incredible you can see you can see it doing its thing up here yeah pretty cool i'm very stoked that's amazing i'm real happy with it i think it came out real nice it surely beats the monstrosity that microswiss wanted me to use yeah this this looks much nicer to me but the l touch came out real nice and everything worked i i believe you can modify the g code when you're starting your print you can just build it into your profile that way you can get the machine to home properly so it knows where all the boundaries are because everything did shift slightly uh to the left the all metal hot end shifted slightly to the left because of the new bracket and the bl touch shifted the same amount actually they'll touch a little bit more there is a firmware custom firmware that you can install on this however we lose the ability to use the touch screen on this there's a company out there that makes a kit i may consider ordering it because it will give me a lot more functionality and allow me to print with much higher temperature right now i'm limited to uh whatever the the limits are on this machine i think it's like 270 70 degrees maybe i'll have to double check on that but you got to get up into like the high the high 200s to be able to print some of these exotic filaments and i have all the hardware to do it i have the 50 watt uh heater installed so it can easily do those those temperatures and now we got the all metal hot end and then the direct drive system so there shouldn't be any problem feeding those filaments in there all right guys if you liked the video make sure to give me a thumbs up if you're new to the channel please consider subscribing share the video with your friends turn on your notification bell and leave me some comments i love reading the comments i respond as soon as i see them so guys until next time god bless you

Channel: Victor Bared

Views: 1,600

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Id: VbYe-tYa9pU

Length: 36min 0sec (2160 seconds)

Published: Mon Sep 27 2021