Micro Swiss Dual Gear Direct Drive Upgrade For Ender 5 and Ender 5 Plus 3D Printers

hey what's going on guys daniel from modbot in today's video i'm going to show you how to install micro swiss's new dual gear direct drive all metal hotend into the under 5 printer let's get into it now this is a drop in replacement for the ender 5 ender 5 pro and ender 5 plus first thing we want to do is make sure you've got everything that you're supposed to have so in the box you'll have one bag that contains the extruder tensioner arm the spring as well as the gear for the stepper you'll have one bag that's got various different screws nuts washers and a little bit of capricorn tubing a third bag will contain your hot end as well as the heat break then in the next bag you're going to have the heater block as well as a screw for the thermistor you'll have a bag with the extruder lever of course you'll have the aluminum plate that will replace your current x carriage and hold everything together you're going to have a new nozzle for this hot end a bag with a couple of tools as well as all of your little bowden clips for the filament guide a silicone sock for the new hot end your extension cable for your extruder stepper motor your printed filament guide and lastly just some cable ties to do some organization when you install this so make sure you've got everything laid out and just double check that you've got everything and you are ready to rock and roll there are a few things that you'll need aside from just what is coming in this box just some tools that hopefully most of you have like an adjustable wrench a phillips screwdriver various allen wrenches a 10 millimeter spanner wrench and a seven millimeter socket wrench for the nozzle you can use other tools but those are definitely the recommended and most easy to use i'm gonna be installing this in an ender five plus but again it will work with ender five pro and ender five and it will be a very very similar install to get started make sure your machine is powered off unplug the cable if you were just using it please give it time to cool down we don't want anyone getting injured doing this then to get started we are going to take a two millimeter allen wrench and we are going to remove the fan housing for the x carriage there's two screws there's one on the top and there's one about midway down on the left hand side if you've got the ender five plus then it's in between your bl touch and that fan housing so just be careful when you reach in there because the bl touches cables are quite delicate and they do pass through there it's going to be much easier to access it on a ender 5 or ender 5 pro since you won't have a bl touch there once you remove those two screws the whole fan housing and the bl touch is going to drop down also make sure you keep your screws and the components you're taking off of your printer a few of these will need to be used later on so it's just good to have these off in a tray somewhere so once you've removed those screws push the housing off to the side if you've got a under five plus with the bl touch throw it over the top and we're going to remove the two screws holding the hot end to the x carriage you'll need a 2.5 millimeter allen wrench to loosen these once you remove those the hot end is going to drop along with the fan housing then we're going to go ahead and take off the stock silicone sock that comes on the hot end which will allow us to access the heater cartridge and thermistor you need a 1.5 millimeter allen wrench to loosen the grub screw on the bottom of the hot end or on the heater block when you loosen that you will be able to slide the heater cartridge in and out which is great however don't pull that out until you've loosened the screw for the thermistor the screw for the thermistor is just a little phillips screw just grab a phillips head screwdriver and loosen that or remove it completely so that way you can slide out the thermistor and the heater cartridge all in one pole now the thermistor is quite delicate so be careful with this also try not to touch the very end of it with your bare fingers if you've got oil on your on your hands and you touch that it could damage it or shorten the life of it it's again quite delicate so just like i did in the video pull from a little bit higher up where you're actually just pulling the cables and not the thermistor end itself next we're going to remove the bowden tube from the stock hot end you're just going to pull off the little clip holding it in place with your thumb and then you're going to compress the bowden fitting downward towards the hot end and by doing so it'll actually release that bowden tube and you can very easily slide it out once done there we're going to turn our attention to the stock extruder we're going to need to remove that from the current extruder stepper motor first we're going to grab a 2.5 millimeter allen wrench and remove the tension arm make sure you unplug your extruder stepper motor as well using that same 2.5 millimeter allen wrench we're gonna go ahead and remove completely the tension screw that's sticking into the extruder the remaining three screws should actually require a two millimeter allen wrenches they're slightly smaller on the top so just remove the three remaining extruder screws but use one hand to hold the stepper motor as you remove the last one since the stepper motor will fall off completely otherwise so just use one hand to hold that in place like i did here as you remove that final screw next just like we did on the hot end we're going to compress the ptfu or the bowden attachment and pull the bowden tube out then on the stock stepper motor we need to remove the actual filament gear we're going to do that by taking a 1.5 millimeter allen wrench and we are going to just turn counterclockwise which will allow us to very easily remove that part and we're definitely going to need the stepper motor for the new extruder so make sure you hold on to that now it's time to remove the belt on your x carriage on the left top left side of your printer there's gonna be two screws that hold the belt tensioner in place by loosening those you will completely loosen the slack or create slack in your x belt which will then allow you to very easily move it up into the left of the x carriage popping it off and then for the right side you do the exact same thing where you just pull it up and pop it off to the right it removes quite easily then for now we can actually get out of the way altogether i just grabbed it from the right side and pulled it all the way through next we're gonna need to grab our spanner wrench and we're going to actually be removing the bottom wheel from the x carriage on the front end you're going to use the spanner wrench and on the back end you're going to use a three millimeter allen wrench so what i recommend doing is using the spanner wrench to just hold it in place with one hand so that way the nut can't spin and then use the other allen key on the back side to then turn it counterclockwise and remove it once done the wheel will pop off along with the screw and the eccentric nut we will need to keep that so make sure you hold on to those and then you can actually take the x carriage back plate off altogether we do need to get access to these v-slot wheels as we will be reinstalling them on the new aluminum back plate so doing the same thing with these two wheels using the three millimeter allen wrench and the spanner wrench you're just going to go ahead and remove these as well the screws and the regular washers will not need to be capped really all you need off of this are the three v-slot wheels the one eccentric nut and that is about it as pictured here next we're going to go ahead and install the v-slot wheels on the new x-carriage we're going gonna grab the two five millimeter nylon patch screws they're very easy to tell which ones are those because they've got blue on them so we're gonna take those screws push them through the v-slot wheels and the two kind of protruded aluminum spreads onto the x carriage you could just screw those in there i use my hand to just kind of hand tighten them in and get them into place and then of course afterwards you're gonna need to grab a allen wrench and screw those in nice and tight so you don't want any slop but you also want to make sure that the v-slot wheels are still free spinning so when you get the three millimeter allen wrench and you tighten these down make sure you tighten it nice and tight so that way there's no the wheels can't move forward and backwards at all but again make sure that the wheel is still free spinning without any tension if it isn't moving at all then you definitely need to loosen it slightly and make sure that they're able to move um you know very easily without any friction so next we're gonna do the bottom wheel for the bottom wheel we're gonna grab a five millimeter screw that came in the kit the nylon lock nut which has a little bit of nylon on the inside as you can see pictured there the five millimeter washer included in the kit we're also going to be reusing the eccentric nut that we took off a moment ago and of course the final v-slot wheel so you're gonna grab that screw and push the v-slot wheel through it then we're gonna grab the eccentric nut and it does need to go in in the correct direction the side that has the post that sticks out more needs to be facing away from the v-slot wheel then we're going to place the new aluminum carriage on the x gantry or the x aluminum bar for the printer actually have it facing the correct way the wheels should be on the back side and the front clear section should be on the front and we're going to go ahead and push that third screw through the bottom and then i used one hand to kind of hold it in place while using the washer that we had a moment ago to place the washer on the front and then the nylon lock nut should be the last thing that goes on and then similarly to how we've been doing this we're just going to take the spanner wrench for the front to hold the nylon lock nut in place and then we're going to use the allen wrench on the back side to twist that and again in this instance it is the three millimeter allen wrench that you'll be needing goes for here you want to make sure it's nice and tight but still able to move um the eccentric nuts purpose is to be able to adjust the tension or slop of the wheel so if you're we if your x carriage back plate now that it's on isn't moving freely by sticking a spanner wrench in there and slightly turning that eccentric nut that you see picture there it'll actually loosen or tighten the back plate now that that's done we can put the belt back on so i put it on the right side and then you're going to feed it through the housing on the right and just push it all the way through and grab it with your other hand then loop it around the back side so that way it creates a loop around the stepper motor for the x carriage and then you're just going to need to pull it all the way through so you're going to feed it down that aluminum bar out the other side make sure it's lined up with those two bearings in the middle pictured here and then it's going to go back onto the other side of the ex gantry or your extruder plate that's in place we need to go ahead and add the tension again to do so just with your left hand pull the belt tensioner away from the center and that'll create tension in the belt and then using the three millimeter allen wrench you're gonna go ahead and tighten those two screws that we loosened earlier if your belts are not centered like mine were you can very easily just slide them up slightly on the aluminum back plate and get them center with the 2020 extrusions next we're going to take the three included m3 screws and we're going to be installing the stepper motor onto the new extruder make sure that the plug is actually facing upwards as you see pictured here and we're going to be installing the top right top left and bottom left screws into the stepper motor make sure that you don't install the bottom right one yet and to install these we're gonna be using the two millimeter allen wrench once those are in place we're going to go ahead and grab the extruder lever and that is what we're going to be installing in the bottom right portion with the extruder lever you're going to make sure that you've got the shoulder screw that will go through that lever and then into the fourth slot on the stepper motor that we haven't put a screw into yet same thing goes for this one we're gonna use a two millimeter allen wrench to tighten that into place if it has a little bit of wiggle forward and backwards don't worry about it that's fine mine did too and it will work great next we're going to grab the new gear for the extruder stepper motor and we're going to take a 1.5 millimeter allen wrench and slightly loosen that little grub screw and then we're going to slide this on to the new stepper motor make sure the grub screw is lined up with the flat portion of the stepper motor post as there's only one side of it that's flat then you're going to want to grab a little bit of some pla filament that you can feed through the top all the way through the extruder like pictured here what the goal is here is to line up that gear on the stepper motor with the uh gear on the right hand side and so what we're going to do is we're going to wiggle the gear on the left side back and forth and back and forth just to try to get it lined up with the gear on the right side as you can see pictured here it's nice and lined up got a nice and firm grip on the filament and once you've found that sweet spot take your 1.5 millimeter allen wrench and just continue tightening it until the grub screw is nice and snug and the gear is not going to be moving around after that we're grabbing the tension screw and the spring the spring needs to go onto the tension screw we're gonna then feed this through the top of the extruder and into the lever for the extruder it only goes in one way so just spin that around until you get the flat portion that feeds through and then grab the adjusting knob and just tighten that so that way it is nice and snug and the screw can't pop out as far as how tight you want it you basically want the center screw post to be flush with that knob depending on the filament you're using you might need to adjust this for flexibles or something like that but this is a good starting point that micro swiss is recommended and that's what i've been using successfully on this now it's time to grab the heater block the screws on the heater block the heads of them should be on the bottom and so the little tiny posts of the screws or the end of the screws are going to be facing upward so this is right now currently the upwards view of the heater block and we're going to grab the heat break and we're going to with our hands just thread that into the port on here then using a spanner wrench we are just going to tighten that nice and tight then take the nozzle do the same thing just feed it in from the bottom side and use your hands to just tighten that into place once done also grab the spanner wrench and give it a nice nice turn to make sure that it is locked into place once done we're gonna grab the heatsink and make sure that it's in the correct orientation the top portion of it has like a chamfer and so you want it to be on its back which is the flat side without the chamfer and we're gonna slide the heat break into the heatsink as pictured here i recommend having it on a flat surface next grab the little grub screw that came in the kit and the 1.5 millimeter allen wrench and this is what we're actually going to use to connect the heat sink to the heat break you want to make sure it's nice and tight but you also don't want to strip it so i just went ahead and i did use some tension but i wasn't very very forceful just make sure it's nice and snug next we're going to grab the little bit of capricorn tubing and make sure you insert the flat side into the heatsink one side is flat one sides cut out so make sure the flat side is again the portion that goes into the heatsink and grab the little red retaining clip and push that in that's again just going to make sure that that capricorn tubing is not able to back itself out now that we've got this assembled we're actually going to slide the top of the capricorn tubing into the insert on the extruder we're gonna grab two m3 screws that were included with the kit these are gonna be the longer m3 screws and we're gonna go ahead and tighten the hot end to the new x carriage using a two millimeter allen wrench on these make sure that they're nice and tight next it's time to put the heater cartridge as well as the thermistor back into place the heater cartridge is gonna be quite simple it just slides in and then you're gonna need to tighten the two screws on the bottom they will be 1.5 millimeter allen wrench needed to tighten these and you want to make sure these are nice and tight you're actually going to have the heater block block clamp down onto the heater cartridge so that way it's really stuck in place if you look at it from the front you can actually see it tightening then we're gonna need to put in the thermistor i use the edge of a screwdriver to just kind of tap it into the bottom hole and then we're going to grab these small phillips screw that came in this kit and we're going to use that to hold the thermistor in place it needs to be in there tight but you also don't want to pitch the pinch the wires as it can damage the thermistor so i would say side on going a little bit looser versus tighter just to be safe then you're going to turn your printer on and preheat your hot end to 220 celsius we're going to do this so that way we give the hot end a chance to expand and then we can re-tighten everything so for this you're going to want to use an adjustable wrench and then a socket wrench but i just used a tiny little kind of spanner wrench that i had to tighten the nozzle you want to make sure it's nice and tight but you again don't want to over torque it so if you do have a torque wrench that's specific then you can set that but for me just using a little again spanner type wrench works great also make sure you tighten the heater cartridge screws one more time as well as the screw that connects the heat sink to the heat block or the heat break once done go ahead and turn the printer off and unplug it again make sure that you give it time to cool down before doing this next step but we're going to grab the silicone sock and put this over the new heater block i had trouble getting the back left up and so i used a tiny little allen key to kind of stretch it through after that it's time to reattach the housing for the fan on the uh hot end if you've got a ender five plus then you'll use your left hand to hold the bl touch in place and your right hand to hold the fan uh carriage and if you just have an ender five or under five pro then it's a lot easier to reinstall so you're gonna use the two millimeter allen wrench and just two of the shorter m3 screws to put this back together again make sure it's nice and tight you want to make sure that this housing or this cover for the fans isn't sagging at all after this we're going to install the printed filament guide tube we're just going to go ahead and use two short m3 screws as well as two included nuts just push the screws through from the front and then on the back side you're gonna need to use the included nuts to make sure that you tighten this down to the frame you're gonna need a two millimeter allen wrench to do so and i'll show you guys a picture of the back so that way you can see basically what it looks like so use my left hand just to hold this little nut into place and my right hand to tighten the screw from the front and that held it uh nice and snug in place after that we need to put the bowden tube into this new setup so i went ahead and cut the zip tie that was already in place because it made it very difficult to do so and then you just shove the bowden tube into the top and use the bowden retaining clip you're going to insert it in the tiny little opening that's towards the top of the extruder like i'm pointing out here and all that's going to do is make sure that this bowden tube can't again back out or slip out of the extruder now again this is a direct drive setup this tube is just in place to act as a guide tube and make sure there's no friction between your spool of filament and the extruder once done with that we're going to grab the stepper motor extension cable that was included and we're going to take the end of your current stepper motor extruder cable plug that into here and then plug the other end into the top of this extruder you're going to need the added length since now it's no longer attached to the back of your machine and it's attached to the actual head of your machine you'll want to make sure that you do some really nice cable management it does come with zip ties you can go as crazy with uh organization as possible for me the easiest thing was just to take the new cable and route it alongside the existing cables and i just zip tied it to those then take the other end of the bowden tube and insert into that filament guide tube and then you also can take a couple of zip ties and on the side of that filament guide tube those actually are slots for zip ties which will really help with again the cable management and just keeping everything nice and neat the last thing that needs to be done is we need to update the e-steps since the extruder's uh gear ratio is different microsource has created a g-code file that makes this really easy that you just download like pictured here drag it over to the sd card for your printer and then just plug this into your printer since it is a g-code file we're just going to go ahead and actually print this file called msdde steps if you select it and hit print it'll instantly update your e-steps and to what is recommended by microsoft as a good starting point of course each machine could be slightly different and so you should always calibrate your e-steps for your specific machine i recently did a tutorial on this actually and so i'll place links below if you want to do that for your machine as well once done with that you're really all set all that's left is to just double check your z offset make sure your nozzle is still the correct height which in this situation mine actually was perfect and then the other things they recommend doing is reducing your retraction since it's a direct drive you don't need nearly as much retraction so 1.5 millimeter at 35 millimeters a second is the maximum recommended retraction length also you may need to increase your print temperature by 5 to 10c compared to the temperature that you were used to because of the fact that it is now an all metal hot end and the nozzle is not brass so that is all you've installed it you've really unlocked a lot of potential you can print in all sorts of different materials from flexibles now to higher temp materials and yeah let me know what you guys think in the comments down below don't forget to smack the like button and subscribe for more great videos if there's anything i missed at all please let me know again also in the comments down below and i will do my best to help answer those questions or to add any information as need be so on that note again thank you guys so much for watching and i will see you guys in my next video this has been daniel from modbar and i'm out peace guys

Channel: ModBot

Views: 65,455

Keywords: ender 3, ender 3 direct drive, creality, cr10, cr10 direct drive, micro swiss, micro swiss all metal, micro swiss direct drive, micro swiss install, micro swiss tutorial, best creality upgrades, best ender upgrades, Ender 5, ender 5 pro, ender 5 plus, ender 5 upgrades, ender 5 direct drive, ender 5 mods

Id: g9ObnKc0HJU

Length: 24min 55sec (1495 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 01 2020