Elegoo Neptune 4 - Overview Leveling & Print

all right so this is the Neptune 4. it's quite familiar look it definitely looks very similar to the earlier version which is the three but we do have a few unique things about it so starting up here we got the spool holder and this is where our spool goes the filament detector plugs in here this upper portion here is injected molded plastic screwed to the aluminum frame going down we got nice little picture drawings here with create the future wording a logo logo metal brackets for the Z lead screws with bearings very nice we have a tether belt here going between the two underneath the logo we do have a light bar very cool going down from there we can see our hot end extruder our x-axis is a smaller Channel we do have adjusters for the belt here large fan there behind with the cooling coming out here our x-axis and stop switch here the motor behind it that runs the belt so the hot end assembly is a direct drive which works very well this is where we plugged in the main cable and everything's inside we can see a gear here that turns the extruder this is where we're going to feed in the filament I love to see that stainless steel bushing there this is the lever to release the filament we got dual cooling fans on each side and also not to mention this four fans behind that are gonna blow right under here there is an induction sensor right here and that's for the outer leveling not much to see under there but we can see the nozzle there the tip and our heat block above that which does have a silicone sock and also it does look like we have a light underneath now which is great because the light from the top casts a shadow over this which you know you can't see much but if there's a light under here that's going to be great and going down from there we have our build platform which is a flexible material it's quite thin it is one-sided but it is a Pei sheet which is very nice and these are great and they last long and just very nice to use and underneath we got the magnetic mat that this magnetizes to very cool now the only thing is that I wish they had some kind of brackets in the back to line this up because if you don't get it just right it doesn't land perfect but no big deal just a little detail there so as we go down we can see our aluminum heated bed there it is not insulated which shouldn't be a problem as it's not that large we can see the frame quite thick nice adjustable knobs on four corners the rollers under there the belt tensioner here pretty good wide y-axis is rail metal frame manufacturing label and you guys can see we have a 225 by 225 by 265 print volume on this printer this is a great medium size so going down from there nothing to see here quite clean what I'd love to see some kind of storage but I guess it wasn't able to fit we have the micro SD card slot a USB type c port a USB port and then our screen that plugs in we've got four large rubber feet the screen is quite large we have a sticker here that says to check our voltages let's go ahead and peel the protector it is quite nice but I wish the bezels were a little smaller and it was easier to hold in the hand but other than that these are pretty good screens and it does magnetize and it's quite convenient to pick it up and use it so I am happy that elegoo offers it even in this budget printer so going this way we do have another plug-in I believe this is for the ethernet as this does run on Clipper now on the left side there's not too much here except our cable that runs up and we do have the power input Port it is fused with an on and off switch so looking at it from the back here see our two lead screws metal brackets the fan the back of our hot end here love the strain relief for the wire not too much to see under here the blower itself looks quite unique we do have an on and off switch here and this is where the power comes in we'll have to see the Dual z-axis that are synchronized two Motors couplers here we have the Y motor with the Y belt and the Y end stop switch so looking at the back from this side we have a hole here with a few wires coming out one's for the bed which is by the way strained relieved and the other one here goes to the y-axis motor and switch now below that there is another Port which is a 24 volt output two and a half amps Max so that's quite interesting it looks like maybe for some kind of accessory going this way we have our power supply switch which we can adjust from 230 and 115 so depending on where you live make sure you check this before you do anything else which is quite important to have the correct voltage set so since I'm in North America or United States I will collect to 115 a and that'll be the voltage I need so if you're not sure what you need it's better to turn the printer on on 230 as you won't really damage nothing the printer might act funny and not work right or might not work at all but if you are on 230 and you have it on 115 you're probably going to blow a fuse and whatnot also yeah just make sure you change that to the correct voltage depending on where you live and yeah that's pretty much it guys here definitely love these huge rubber feet so yeah pretty neat looking machine so for the next part let's plug it in Power It Up check make sure everything works and level the bed all right I got the power cord plugged in let's go ahead and power it on and the screen lights up and we definitely have a little bit of a different loading logo than before and it does take a bit longer all right there it is so the good part is is that it all looks similar we got Neptune 4 up there print prepare settings level and then our printer information there so yeah we'll go through this in a second let's go ahead and click on prepare and I'll click on all for home and it should work here for X Y and now Z all right so it looks like everything's good there let's go ahead and click on temp and we'll preheat the nozzle in the bed and we do have hot buttons here very cool pla abs btg and TPU so let's click on PLA and so that's going to go to 205 and 60. all right and everything seems to be working and registering which is a good sign let's go back and we need to do leveling so we'll do that next continue and it's going to do its thing and we do have a different menu here that pops up and we can see that it was preset minus 2.2 which looks pretty close but I think it's touching the build plate so what we need to do first is do the auxiliary adjustment and then the automatic so the auxiliary one we're going to manually adjust it with these knobs after we do that we're going to do the automatic and it's going to probe the bed and offset it which is six by six which is 36 points on the bed so I'm going to click on auxiliary it's going to kind of tell us how to do that which is you're going to use a piece of paper confirm we have one two three four and then home so we're going to start with one after it's done moving there I'm going to click on one all right so let's click one so I'm just going to use a Postino but you can use like a normal sheet of paper and what we're going to do is we're just going to adjust the bed here to the nozzle using the knobs you got a little drag here we'll go to two which is in the back there all right that's pretty good we'll go to three this one's Practically Perfect so now we'll go to four and this one's loose so we'll tighten it up a bit okay now I'm gonna go back around to one and basically just keep going around until it's pretty close which actually is already pretty good so because this is not a large bedded you know a few tries around should be good enough yeah that feels perfect too I guess we're good a little tight on this one so the closer you get the manual leveling the less it'll have to compensate automatically so that feels really good I'm going to click on the middle which is home and we'll check that and sure enough it's pretty much perfect so yeah we are done here so we're gonna go back so if we want to continue to out of bed leveling we'll confirm or cancel to just go back so since we do need to do out of bed leveling we'll click confirm and that will start the process for out of bed leveling and as it takes the measurements you guys can see they light up and there's a total of 36. all right and so now it's finished and we can set our z-axis offset which is right here we can go up or down and the increments of .01 or 0.1 or one millimeter so let's go ahead and adjust that and it does appear we need to go down just a little bit so I am on point zero one I'm going to keep pushing it down until we start feeling some drag so I feel it now I'm going to go up a little bit to make sure I have a nice little Gap there so my offset ended up being negative 2.310 and on the bottom all those numbers you guys see those are all offsets and we can see that they're not far off from each other which is a great sign as we have a very level bed and this is why if you adjust it manually you should have very small offsets so once we're done here we're just going to click back and that's just going to save everything well actually it's going to ask us to save to apply the offset so we're going to confirm so it's actually doing a reboot and saving the data and there we go we're back to the main menu So speaking of the menu let's go ahead and look through it a little more thorough then we got the Neptune forward there the name got the print button this is going to read the files and we'll do that in a second prepare we got move so these are the sections that you could be in so on the move you guys can see you can move the axes individually the amount or helmet here you can stop the motors or release them here we have temp this is where we're going to preheat it I love the presets on the bottom here very cool let's go ahead and preheat pla again and then we got extruder and this is where we're going to load the filament in and out but because this is a direct drive it should be just as easy as putting it through pushing the lever over you know purging it yourself but you can do it from the screen also so yeah in the settings we got a few things we can adjust like languages and these are all the different ones we have we got temperature settings this is where you're going to set the presets so let's say pla you can set this to whatever you want and then it'll preheat to that we got light control which by the way this printer does have a light so we do have headlight and observation light so the headlight is going to be the top one which turned on and then the observation light is going to be the little light underneath here you guys can see it glowing there pretty cool so here we can turn our fans on and off we've got motor off here also which disables the stepper Motors got filament detector which is on at the moment we'll leave that on factory settings so you can restore everything let's cancel we got about the machine we can see here the name the build volume the version it's running on UI manufacturing Lagoon and how to contact them and below that we have advanced settings which lets us control the brightness of the screen and actually I wanted to do this turn it down for the video a bit so it looks a little better and also you can turn the Peeping sound on and off so I guess I'll leave it on that's pretty much it guys for all the settings and we have that level button that we pushed to do the leveling and down here we have our axis positions and then our nozzle and bed temperatures right on the front so let's go ahead plug our USB thumb drive here in the front and we'll see if we have anything in there so we'll click on print and sure enough it does read it and we have a few folders here okay we do have a Buddha gcode we also have a model folder let's see what's in here okay so it's like models that comes okay so they also have G Codes inside there so yeah if you want to print something in the model folder they have quite a few things we can start with we are already preheated I'm going to go ahead and start with this spool of red filament you want to cut your filament on the angle and if we go here to the top we can see this pull holder this pull just sit in like that we're going to go through the filament detector and there's a light that lights up indicating its senses then we're going to go down to the extruder but we do need to raise it up so let's go ahead and do that so click on Z up 10 millimeters now we can see a little better underneath and what we're going to do is we're going to just push on this lever to release it and then feed our filament there through the tub and I can just push this down all the way myself and you guys should see it coming out the bottom and looks like we had a little bit of blue in there from Factory testing but we can go ahead and go to extruder click on load and that will Purge it for us if you need to purge more so yeah I mean it's easy enough because it's direct drive just to do it yourself quickly but you can use also the extruder option here all right so we're nice and purged let's move this out of the way and we're going to click on print and go to our Buddha G-Code click on that so it actually pulls up the preview very cool so it's going to take 31 minutes to print confirm and it starts oh all right so far everything looks good it's purging there on the side and it's printing and our offset looks pretty much perfect guys see if I can get you closer here I'm not sure how much you can see with that light shining right down at it it looks really good to my eye here and yeah it's bringing along quite quick right off the bat but if we go back to the screen we can see we've got quite a few things here to look at we got the preview here the name of the file so we have settings pause stop then all this information on the bottom here so we can see we got three percent 30 minutes left the coordinates the amount of time passed nozzle temperature bed temperature speed fan millimeters a second 95 which is pretty quick so if we click on settings we have more options here to choose from change our nozzle temperatures load and unload filament you can control our speed the flow rate and the fan and under adjust here we can go up and down on the z-axis offset right on the Fly which is quite helpful if you know you need to go up or down a little bit but ours looks perfect from the initial adjustment and we're good to go and we can also turn on filament detection or off here and our LED controls are here also so yeah very nice and thorough screen while we're printing so yeah everything looks good so far um I'm gonna go ahead and turn on this fan in the back you guys can't really see what the buttons right behind the hot end here so I'm going to click on okay and they all do turn on and oh yeah there is a lot of air coming from there this could help a lot with the print quality maybe and we'll see how the first print comes out all right guys so the Buddha is done and it took only 38 minutes which is not bad and you guys can see that the screen dims down when it sits there for a bit so we can print again or return which is great option if you want to keep printing the same thing click on return goes back to home so what's cool is these auxiliary fans even though they're on they actually turned off when the print was finished which is super cool so I wonder if they work together with the parts cooling fans I guess we'll have to see how that does but yeah that's pretty neat and quite useful because you don't want these you know continuously running when you have it on so but yeah let's check out this print so the bed is pretty much cooled off it's stuck on really good we do have a brim and let's see how easy all right so that that just ripped off so yeah these Pei sheets are great from elegu and the experience with other printers that I have with these they all work amazingly well very convenient sticks very well when it's hot and then as you guys saw it just peels right off and the brim here came off really easy and for a 38 minute print it looks really really good so we had the fans blasting on the back and if we look everything looks super clean and smooth so yeah excellent print quality right off the bat here I'm not sure about the parameters since we didn't slice this but it all looks great and that's what our bottom looks like has like a little crinkle finish very happy with their first print here very smooth layers um all right so the cube and the benchy are done and yeah quite impressive and what's kind of crazy is that you know this is a betslinger so we do have the normal I3 setup but we're having really great results with the prints at the speeds that they're printing so the cube did finish in 13 minutes or at least what it said on the display so I definitely believe the 12 minutes and the benchy finished at 38 minutes I believe something like that so A few minutes over the 35 predicted again with the heat up time that probably takes a couple minutes there so very close to their estimated times on the slicer so again very impressive but yeah let's go ahead and look at the cube so the accesses matter and this is the x-axis which goes this way and we can see hopefully you guys can see so the X looks really good considering this only took 12 minutes to print then we got the Y here we got a little bit more vibrations not terrible but there are some there slight ghosting we got the X wall pretty clean and the Y wall also quite clean a little more vibrations and slight ghosting on the edge there but yeah not bad at all guys for this kind of speed and the bottom looks good and the top is also great so yeah for the speed that we're doing I would say these are great results and they really speak here on the benchy so we are a little bit too close to the bed so I do need to offset it a little better I do have a slight elephant foot but if we look at the print we can see we've got really nice walls on the bottom there a little bit something here but keep in mind this is a 35 minute benchy so it is quite quick for this kind of printer the layers are sitting great now if you do see like lines that's just the way the light hits the print it's quite smooth overall and surprisingly we can even read back there it says hashtag 3 renchy which is pretty clean the walls look great good cooling minimal vibrations and ghosting so overall very very impressive and the top also looks great quite incredible here for the Neptune 4 printing with the Clipper software which really speeds everything up so we're printing away and I figured something out about the fans here in the back obviously you can turn them on and off so if I turn it off you guys can see how quiet that is if we turn it back on it's quite loud and the reason it's loud is on the display here if you click on the fan here just click on it you guys can see there's a little menu here that pops up and it says mute normal and violet so if we click on normal it slows down a bit so it's quite a bit quieter and if we click on mute it slows down even more so there's some pretty good airflow still it's not as crazy but I feel like mute is probably enough for most everything and we have quite a bit of air flowing here off the front and normal yeah quite a bit more and should be a lot more adequate but yeah if we click out of it we can see normal is 80 and mute is at 50 percent so that's cool how you can control it here from the display and the external fan because I was wondering if that was even possible as it was quite loud on the normal 100 and I feel like you probably don't need that unless you're going to be you know Ultra printing so I'm gonna try normal and the mute mode so right now I'm printing on mute and it's actually quite pleasant but before it was definitely too loud so I went ahead and printed out that the tool holder and this is what it looks like it's actually a pretty cool and unique little bracket that'll hold all of our stuff in here and it Clips on here on the back on the side where the screen is so I printed this out of PLA and it turned out really good and should work pretty well for this purpose so we're just going to literally slide it on there so there's like a little Channel there that it kind of goes into and just going to push it and it clicks on there and it holds on really good and now we can load it up with our tools so on these holes we got the two screwdrivers Phillips and the flat maybe I can turn it here a little more so you guys can see better and then these slots here for the wrenches the larger one goes first and then the smaller one and then we've got the Allen wrenches big is too small very nice we also have the needle that goes right over here kind of hard to see but it's like a little dot that slides into these two slots are for like a Micro SD card which I'm putting the one that was the gift with the adapter and by the way there's nothing on here it's just empty that goes there the adapter actually goes right here and then our little yellow spatula I think let's see yeah it goes like this I believe so it kind of has to go behind the wrenches and in so that goes there and this guy here actually just hangs right here on this little tab like that quite easy to grab these cut your filament hang them back you know grab your wrench even grab this little spatula here and do what you got to do with it so yeah very nice and clean way to organize all of the tools

Channel: Just Print

Views: 31,501

Keywords: 3D Printer, 3D Printing, Just Print, Just Vlad, elegoo neptune 4, elegoo neptune 4 assembly, 3d print, 3d printer review, 3d printed, elegoo, neptune 4, klipper 3d printer, elegoo neptune build, neptune 4 3d printer, neptune 4 leveling

Id: ftgccR1yBso

Length: 21min 36sec (1296 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 01 2023