Elegoo Neptune 4 - Klipper 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

in this video we're going to be checking out the elegu Neptune 4. so eligo keeps impressing us with their new machines and I'm pretty excited to see what the latest and duration of the Neptune Series has to offer so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you guys enjoy it let's get started [Music] thank you thank you all right so yeah pretty exciting here for the Neptune 4 and it's a decent sized box about what you expect for a medium-sized 3D printer so let's go ahead and open it up I like how elegu uses branded tape so you know if this thing's ever been opened so everything's encased in Black soft foam and this is what we see on top here we've got quite a few parts here in the middle screen holder spool holder AC power cord us type about four feet long there's something really interesting cooling fans and this looks like an external kind of Parts cooling accessory here that has on and off switch a little plug and four fans that look pretty large and this is the output here so yeah that's quite interesting and here we have a bag of accessories and all kinds of stuff and we'll go through this in a second so let's go ahead and pull the printer out so there's a few layers you can either pull them out like this and take out the components so I'm just going to do it straight from here so we got the gantry very well packed pretty familiar looking dual z-axis so we'll go through all the details here in a bit and underneath here we can see the base go ahead and pull that out if you've seen the other elegu machines they look quite similar but I do see some differences here and there so yeah and over here in the corner we do have our screen which is portable you can grab it it has a coiling kind of cord that stretches and that is everything for the box so let's get this out of the way and we'll bring the base back in but let's go ahead and flip it around and see what we got underneath so yeah um this new Neptunes are running on new software which is called Clipper it is 64-bit so we do have the power supply here towards the back and towards the front is where our electronics are so yeah I'm gonna go ahead and take this little cover off and also if you guys notice here we have four rubber feet on each corner but before we do that let's go ahead and see what's inside this bag so we get our ethernet cable that connects from the printer to your router we get a little sample of pla filament and white not great but you do have something to start with a little spatula here and this could be useful to get underneath the nozzle we've got some Cutters and these are very useful as you can cut your filament on an angle and nothing else here we have a USB cable and blue here and it connects between the printer and the computer here's our filament detector that we'll need to install on the the printer so I'm zip ties for organizing cables a clean out needle if your nozzle gets clogged you can use this to clean it out so here we have something that says giveaway not sure if this is a bonus item or what but it is a USB adapter for the micro SD card is quite small so I'm not sure exactly what's on there but maybe something interesting is on there and we'll check it out once we get to the computer so we also get a thumb drive with a couple nozzles and a PTFE tubing looks like an insert for the hot end so this is our main drive here where we'll find everything for the printer and we also get a baggie of Hardware which is mostly bolts there that is used for installation and assembly and for the last part here we get some tools open-ended wrenches a couple screwdrivers and Allen wrenches so this is Phillips here which is included let's go ahead and take this panel off all right that was pretty easy we do have a fan connected pretty large one I'll go ahead and unplug it and let's take a closer look at the board so we can see this is not a normal board as it is a clipper type board that I've seen on other printers that is the model right there so it's a znpk1 version 1.0 we have a MKS EMC that so that must be the hard drive solid state we got the four stepper controllers they are heatsinked non-removable here we have a cable that goes this side here that's the network looks like our ports are there for the front all our power wires here that come from the power supply and you guys can see everything is hot glued and very well put together here so yeah quite exciting to see printer is going to Clipper so I'm going to put the lid back on and we'll flip it around and start the assembly all right so putting the printer together is pretty simple you guys maybe noticed that we did not have any kind of manual or in paper form that was included so you're gonna find it in this red a drive thumb drive that's what these nozzles in this bag and there's a PDF in there that I downloaded to my phone and we can kind of go along here so yeah there's some cautions there table of contents this is probably pretty interesting which is the parameters of the printer a little darker here but yeah also shows you all the parts of the printer everything included and step one and putting it together so for the first step we're going to put the Gantry here onto the base let's go ahead and pull out these foam pieces from underneath grab our bag of bolts and we're gonna find m545s which there's four pieces and they're black and they're gonna go through the bottom there's some holes here so we're gonna put the Gantry with the front of it facing to the front it's going to line up I guess we need to grab our wrench first that's going to be the largest one and I'm going to use a spool of filament to prop it up or get our bolt ready through the bottom you guys see it right here so yeah just line it up and start them and there are two of them and we're just going to run these down without tightening them yet all right now let's flip around and we'll do this side same way here there's this cable here that goes so you kind of have to push it to the side but pretty straightforward and everything lines up really good and I'm going to go ahead and run these down but don't tighten them quite yet and the reason for that is because we want to bring our x-axis down so the separation between the two rails is as even as possible so I'm going to grab the belt here and just turn it and that's going to bring it down by turning the lead screase so you can turn to coupler also so I'm just going to go all the way down and so we know that it's pretty happy here and now we can go ahead and tighten these bolts underneath make sure you snug them up pretty well but don't go crazy on as this is the only thing holding the Gantry up so once you start feeling good resistance that's pretty good and we'll do the same thing here so that should be good now if your base is not completely flat like it moves around which mine is not but if it does just try pushing on the edges to level it out there are bolts here that you can check if they're tight enough so mine are actually a little bit more looser than they probably should be so once you flatten it out you can tighten these bolts up all right so for step two we're going to be installing the screen holder which will require three m420 bolts and that's this guy here the bolts are going to go through here you guys can see the three holes and it's literally going to line up right over here and it goes just like that so here's the baggie of the bolts there's actually five in there two are for something else we're gonna grab three of them grab the correct wrench and start here from the back in now there is a magnet right here and it does try to magnetize while you're trying to screw them in so but yeah simply we're just going to line up the holes with the threads and tighten it on not a hard thing to do just could get a little frustrating with trying to get underneath there as the wrench is barely long enough to clear the end here so but yeah not a big deal all right and that is the screen here where the screen holder should I say all right so for step three we're going to install the screen onto the holder and plug it in and then after that step four is quite a few things there's a filament detector that goes on the top and also our main cable that has a bracket and we need to install and connect it to the hot end so this is the screen here and it's already plugged in on one side and it's just going to literally magnetize right here and then the other end is going to plug in on the front here to the control panel so yeah simple as that I guess I forgot to mention that the spool holder itself is also with the same step on four there with everything so yeah so before we go up let's go ahead and install this bracket which holds this cable here that goes from the side so it's this one on this side that goes up and there's a split of some wires and right after that this is where we're going to install this bracket next to the lead screw here and so the clip is just going to go around the flat wire and what I like to do is kind of push on the wire you guys maybe can see if you push on it kind of becomes like a circle and that's where you want your bracket to kind of go so you can kind of fold it or if you kind of Bounce It Around Just Right it becomes Like A Perfect Circle and fits right in there and it can actually slide back and forth pretty easily too so once you get that around you're going to connect it here on the top and we'll snug it down with this bolt all right so that looks good right there so if we flip back around to the front our other end here is going to connect to our hot end assemble here we also have a relief bracket that the cable goes into so hopefully you guys can see but there's these two locking tabs that we gotta open and then we're going to take the cable and just plug it in and it goes only one way you can kind of see a little nub goes to the back and we're just literally going to push and it's all going to lock together just like that so and now we can feed our cable into the relief bracket so we're going to go in one and then kind of help the other side go in and flatten it out and simple as that it is on and so what you want to do now is you want to check make sure you got enough which as you guys can see we do we can actually go back just a little if we want to but this is about right and so we have plenty of length here for the travel so let's go here to the top and you know how well you guys can see but we got a couple threads here brass and this is where we're going to connect our spool holder which by the way is this piece here and a couple m420 bolts same ones we used for the screen we'll go through spool holder into the top here so yeah guys it's pretty logical here and it all lines up quite well and quite easy to figure out so we do need to install our filament detector this comprises of two pieces we got the detector and a bolt and it's a special bolt that's walls and the bolts are going to go through the bracket here on the inside like that and we're going to connect it on this side so you can connect them both but we can see our wire here that goes to the detectors coming from this side so if we swivel over you can see that we got a little brass thread there and so you should be able to tighten it completely and this will still swivel around and now we can plug the detector in here on the side we can see where the plug goes and there's plenty of wire for it to move around and for the last piece we got the holder itself where the spool goes and that literally screws in from either side but we're going to screw it from this side because our detectors on this side and just simply going to tighten it clockwise until it gets tight and yeah our spool will go on here and then it'll feed through the detector and then down into the extruder so for step five we're going to install our super cool large cooling fans there and that's going to have the m445 bolts three of them and then after that which is part six here we're going to plug everything in on the printer and then we're going to check our rollers adjust what we need and then it goes into the software and things like that so let's flip this to the back and we're going to grab our fan here so if we look at these vents they go towards the bottom and the switch here with on and off and the plug goes to the top like this yeah it should line up here something like that let's grab our bolts and yeah there's quite a unique idea here that I don't think I've ever seen at least on a budget printer implemented in this kind of way so pretty cool and that's where it lives here so we do have a plug that plugs in right here and I think we should have probably you guys can see here we're out of this thing through this bracket so I'm going to go ahead and take it off again and add it to the pack tighten this bolt back up and now we can plug it in right here so yeah that's really nice let's go ahead and plug everything in so if we look at these wires here so we've got a larger one and a smaller one and they're labeled with the letter X the larger one is going to be for the motor and the smaller one for the end stop switch so the motor is right here so let's go ahead and plug that in under there and the end stop switch is this plug here all right so we've got the X plugged in if we go down to this corner we can see we got a few wires they are all different which is the good part but the one we're looking for is a z and that's going to plug in into the Z Motor here on the bottom and the other two just plug in as we got a two pin and a three pin plug simple as that as well as nothing's in the way everything looks good the bed clears everything we're done here and one more thing is the other Z Motor which plugs right here that is all the plugs everything else is plugged in which we already plugged in the filament detector up here and fans here so yeah for the next part let's check all our rollers and our belt and we'll start here at the bottom of the printer and if you guys can see maybe underneath there are a couple rollers one two and there's one two on the other side so there's four total and they clamp around this channel here so these two are stationary and the other side where the screen is they're adjustable and what you want to do is you want to stick your hands under there on both sides and kind of roll them and see how they roll and you can also see if your bed is wobbling or not so mine is loosened it's kind of wobbling so it does need to be adjusted so the front is way too loose and the back is also loose so let's go to the other side where you could probably see a little better take the screen off and under there we have two adjustable eccentric nuts and you're going to use the larger wrench the open-ended one to turn the eccentric nuts to get closer and farther away so I'm going to spin it one way and see how that does so we got a little closer then the other one up front and I got my hand in the other side seeing how much resistance there is on the other roller so you want to have just like a small resistance where you can still spin the roller and you probably want to go ahead and take off the build plate so you don't get it too dirty or greasy from just touching the bed but yeah essentially we're just adjusting those eccentric nuts in there so they are grabbing around the channel just good enough where they are slightly compressing but still loose enough where they're not too tight and your bed doesn't wobble and you should be able to spin the roller in one spot and that should be pretty much perfect and it feels really good and there's no wobble also we want to go ahead and check our belt here to see if it's tight enough and this knob here up front will tighten it and loosen it so clockwise to tighten it up and counterclockwise to loosen it so depending on you know how loose or tight yours is you know you don't want to make them too tight but if you start hearing some notes that's too tight so you want to have a really low note don't make them too tight as they're quite small you don't want to put too much pressure on all the rollers and bearings so now going up here we're going to have the same thing with the hot end but because we put this fan on you guys can't see but we essentially have two rollers on the top that are stationary and then one roller on the bottom which is adjustable and the wrench goes underneath here and you can adjust it so on mine it's actually adjusted perfectly as I can spin these wheels quite easy and there's lots of friction and there's no wobble so it's literally perfect on mine so I'm not going to adjust it but again to adjust it you go from underneath and it's the same concept just tight enough around the channel where it's not wobbling but Loose enough where you can spin these so yeah that looks good and feels good and same thing up front here with the adjusting the belt is we're going to tighten and loosen this knob here to get it just right so so mine was actually pretty good already get a little bit tighter and feels good so yeah love that they have these knobs for the X and Y so we do have a few more rollers to look at and that's these here on the z-axis and normally there's no reason to adjust these unless they're way off because we do have dual lead screws but if yours are way off like too tight and you probably want to adjust them if they're too loose maybe adjust them also like mine are slightly loose but there is drag so I'm not going to touch them and same thing for this side so they were pre-adjusted from the factory very well but if you do have to adjust them they're adjusting eccentric nuts are on the inside here that's pretty much everything for adjustments on the y x and z and as you guys can see it's pretty straightforward to get out of the box build it adjust it and we're pretty much ready to go all right so this is the Neptune 4. it's quite familiar looking it definitely looks very similar to the earlier version which is the three but we do have a few unique things about it so starting up here we got the spool holder and this is where our spool goes the filament detector plugs in here this upper portion here is injected molded plastic screwed to the aluminum frame going down we got nice little picture drawings here with create the future wording a logo logo metal brackets for the Z lead screws with bearings very nice we have a tether belt here going between the two underneath the logo we do have a light bar very cool going down from there we can see our hot end extruder our x-axis is a smaller Channel we do have adjusters for the belt here large fan there behind with the cooling coming out here our x-axis and stop switch here the motor behind it that runs the belt so the how in assembly is a direct drive which works very well this is where we plugged in the main cable and everything's inside we can see a gear here that turns the extruder this is where we're going to feed in the filament I love to see that stainless steel bushing there this is the lever to release the filament we've got dual cooling fans on each side and also not to mention this four fans behind that are gonna blow right under here there is an induction sensor right here and that's for the auto leveling not much to see under there but we can see the nozzle there the tip and our heat block above that which does have a silicone sock and also it does look like we have a light underneath now which is great because the light from the top casts a shadow over this which you know you can't see much but if there's a light under here that's going to be great and going down from there we have our build platform which is a flexible material it's quite thin it is one-sided but it is a Pei sheet which is very nice these are great and they last long and just very nice to use and underneath we got the magnet mat that this magnetizes to very cool now the only thing is that I wish they had some kind of brackets in the back to line this up because if you don't get it just right it doesn't land perfect but no big deal just a little detail there so as we go down we can see our aluminum heated bed there it is not insulated which shouldn't be a problem as it's not that large we can see the frame quite thick nice adjustable knobs on four corners the rollers under there the belt tensioner here pretty good wide y-axis is rail metal frame manufacturing label and you guys can see we have a 225 by 225 by 265 print volume on this printer it's a great medium size so going down from there nothing to see here quite clean what I'd love to see some kind of storage but I guess it wasn't able to fit we have the micro SD card slot a USB type c port a USB port and then our screen that plugs in we've got four large rubber feet the screen is quite large we have a sticker here that says to check our voltages let's go ahead and peel the protector it is quite nice but I wish the bezels were a little smaller and it was easier to hold in the hand but other than that these are pretty good screens and it does magnetize and it's quite convenient to pick it up and use it so I am happy that elegoo offers it even in this budget printer so going this way we do have another plug-in I believe this is for the ethernet as this does run on Clipper now on the left side there's not too much here except our cable that runs up and we do have the power input Port it is fused with an on and off switch so looking at it from the back here see our two lead screws metal brackets the fan the back of our hot end here love the strain relief for the wire not too much to see under here the blower itself looks quite unique we do have an on and off switch here and this is where the power comes in love to see the Dual z-axis that are synchronized two Motors couplers here we have the Y motor with the Y belt and the Y end stop switch so looking at the back from this side we have a hole here with a few wires coming out one's for the bed which is by the way strained relieved and the other one here goes to the y-axis motor and switch now below that there is another Port which is a 24 volt output two and a half amps Max so that's quite interesting that looks like maybe for some kind of accessory going this way we have our power supply switch which we can adjust from 230 and 115 so depending on where you live make sure you check this before you do anything else which is quite important to have the correct voltage set so since I'm in North America or United States I will collect to 115 and that'll be the voltage I need so if you're not sure what you need it's better to to turn the printer on on 230 as you won't really damage nothing the printer might act funny and not work right or might not work at all but if you are on 230 and you have it on 115 you're probably going to blow a fuse and whatnot also yeah just make sure you change that to the correct voltage depending on where you live and yeah that's pretty much it guys here definitely love these huge rubber feet so yeah pretty neat looking machine so for the next part let's plug it in Power It Up check make sure everything works and level the bed all right I got the power cord plugged in let's go ahead and power it on and the screen lights up and we definitely have a little bit of a different loading logo than before and it does take a bit longer all right there it is so the good part is is that it all looks similar we got Neptune 4 up there print prepare settings level and then our printer information there so yeah we'll go through this in a second let's go ahead and click on prepare and I'll click on all for home and it should work here for X Y and now Z alright so it looks like everything is good there let's go ahead and click on temp and we'll preheat the nozzle in the bed and we do have hot buttons here very cool pla abs btg and TPU so let's click on PLA and so it's going to go to 205 and 60. all right and everything seems to be working and registering which is a good sign let's go back and we need to do leveling so we'll do that next continue and it's going to do its thing and we do have a different menu here that pops up and we can see that it was preset minus 2.2 which looks pretty close but I think it's touching the build plate so what we need to do first is do the auxiliary adjustment and then the automatic so the auxiliary one we're going to manually adjust it with these knobs after we do that we're going to do the automatic and it's going to probe the bed and offset it which is six by six which is 36 points on the bed so I'm going to click on auxiliary it's going to kind of tell us how to do that which is you're going to use a piece of paper confirm we have one two three four and then home so we're going to start with one after it's done moving there I'm going to click on one all right so let's click one so I'm just going to use a Postino but you can use like a normal sheet of paper and what we're going to do is we're just going to adjust the bed here to the nozzle using the knobs we've got a little drag here we'll go to two which is in the back there all right that's pretty good we'll go to three this one's Practically Perfect so now we'll go to four and this one's loose so we'll tighten it up a bit okay now I'm gonna go back around to one and basically just keep going around until it's pretty close which actually is already pretty good so because this is not a large bed you know a few tries around should be good enough yeah that feels perfect too I guess we're good a little tight on this one so the closer you get the manual leveling the less it'll have to compensate automatically so that feels really good I'm going to click on the middle which is home and we'll check that and sure enough it's pretty much perfect so yeah we are done here so we're gonna go back so if we want to continue to out of bed leveling we'll confirm or cancel to just go back so since we do need to do out of bed leveling we'll click confirm and that will start the process for out of bed leveling and as it takes the measurements you guys can see they light up and there's a total of 36. all right and so now it's finished and we can set our z-axis offset which is right here we can go up or down and the increments of .01 or 0.1 or one millimeter so let's go ahead and adjust that and it does appear we need to go down just a little bit so I am on point zero one I'm going to keep pushing it down until we start feeling some drag so I feel it now I'm going to go up a little bit to make sure I have a nice little Gap there so my offset ended up being negative 2.310 and on the bottom all those numbers you guys see those are all offsets and we can see that they're not far off from each other which is a great sign as we have a very level bed and this is why if you adjust it manually you should have very small offsets so once we're done here we're just going to click back and that's just going to save everything well actually it's going to ask us to save to apply the offset so we're going to confirm so it's actually doing a reboot and saving the data and there we go we're back to the main menu So speaking of the menu let's go ahead and look through it a little more thorough so we got the Neptune forward there the name got the print button this is going to read the files and we'll do that in a second prepare we got move so these are the sections that you could be in so on the move you guys can see you can move the axes individually the amount or helmet here you can stop the motors or release them here we have temp this is where we're going to preheat it I love the presets on the bottom here very cool let's go ahead and preheat peel again and then we got extruder and this is where we're going to load the filament in and out but because this is a direct drive it should be just as easy as putting it through pushing the lever over you know purging it yourself but you can do it from the screen also so yeah in the settings we got a few things we can adjust like languages and these are all the different ones we have we got temperature settings this is where you're going to set the presets so let's say pla you can set this to whatever you want and then it'll preheat to that we got light control which by the way this printer does have a light so we do have headlight and observation light so the headlight is going to be the top one which turned on and then the observation light is going to be the little light underneath here you guys can see it glowing there pretty cool so here we can turn our fans on and off we've got motor off here also which disables the stepper Motors we've got filament detector which is on at the moment we'll leave that on factory settings so you can restore everything let's cancel we got about the machine we can see here the name the build volume the version it's running on UI manufacturing Lagoon and how to contact them and below that we have advanced settings which lets us control the brightness of the screen and actually I wanted to do this turn it down for the video a bit so it looks a little better and also you can turn the Peeping sound on and off so I guess I'll leave it on that's pretty much it guys for all the settings and we have that level button that we pushed to do the leveling and down here we have our axis positions and then our nozzle and bed temperatures right on the front so let's go ahead plug our USB thumb drive here in the front and we'll see if we have anything in there so we'll click on print and sure enough it does read it and we have a few folders here okay we do have a Buddha gcode we also have a model folder let's see what's in here okay so it's like models that comes okay so they also have G Codes inside there so yeah if you want to print something in the model folder they have quite a few things we can start with we are already preheated I'm going to go ahead and start with this spool of red filament you want to cut your filament on the angle and if we go here to the top we can see the spool holder the spool just sit in like that we're going to go through the filament detector and there's a light that lights up indicating its senses then we're going to go down to the extruder but we do need to raise it up so let's go ahead and do that so click on Z up 10 millimeters now we can see a little better underneath and what we're going to do is we're going to just push on this lever to release it and then feed our filament there through the top and I can just push this down all the way myself and you guys should see it coming out the bottom and looks like we had a little bit of blue in there from Factory testing but we can go ahead and go to extruder click on load and that will Purge it for us if you need to purge more so yeah I mean it's easy enough because it's direct drive just to do it yourself quickly but you can use also the extruder option here all right so we're nice and purged let's move this out of the way and we're going to click on print and go to our Buddha G-Code click on that so it actually pulls up the preview very cool so it's going to take 31 minutes to print confirm and it starts okay all right so far everything looks good it's purging there on the side and it's printing and our offset looks pretty much perfect guys see if I can get you closer here I'm not sure how much you can see with that light shining right down at it it looks really good to my eye here and yeah it's bringing along quite quick right off the bat but if we go back to the screen we can see we have quite a few things here to look at we got the preview here the name of the file so we have settings pause stop and then all this information on the bottom here so we can see we got three percent 30 minutes left the coordinates the amount of time passed nozzle temperature bed temperature speed fan millimeters a second 95 which is pretty quick so if we click on settings we have more options here to choose from change our nozzle temperatures load and unload filament you can control our speed the flow rate and the fan and under adjust here we can go up and down on the z-axis offset right on the Fly which is quite helpful if you know you need to go up or down a little bit but ours looks perfect from the initial adjustment and we're good to go and we can also turn on filament detection or off here and our LED controls are here also so yeah very nice and thorough screen while we're printing so yeah everything looks good so far um I'm gonna go ahead and turn on this fan in the back you guys can't really see what the buttons right behind the hot end here so I'm going to click on okay and they all do turn on and oh yeah there is a lot of air coming from there this could help a lot with the print quality maybe and we'll see how the first print comes out all right guys so the Buddha is done and it took only 38 minutes which is not bad and you guys can see that the screen dims down when it sits there for a bit so we can print again or return which is great option if you want to keep printing the same thing click on return it goes back to home so what's cool is these auxiliary fans even though they're on they actually turned off when the print was finished which is super cool so I wonder if they work together with the parts cooling fans I guess we'll have to see how that does but yeah that's pretty neat and quite useful because you don't want these you know continuously running when you have it on so but yeah let's check out this print so the bed is pretty much cooled off it's stuck on really good we do have a brim and let's see how easy all right so that that just ripped off so yeah these Pei sheets are great from elegu and the experience with other printers that I have with these they all work amazingly well very convenient sticks very well when it's hot and then as you guys saw it just peels right off and the brim here came off really easy and for a 38 minute print it looks really really good so we had the fans blasting on the back and if we look everything looks super clean and smooth so yeah excellent print quality right off the bat here I'm not sure about the parameters since we didn't slice this but it all looks great and that's what our bottom looks like has like a little crinkle finish very happy with their first print here very smooth layers and we do have a few more prints we can print from here maybe we'll do that and also we should probably go to the slicer and see if we can slice our own model and print it out all right so we're at the computer and I got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so this is what we see we got the user manual in PDF form and this is what we were looking at as we were building the printer definitely go through here and it's quite helpful to understand the printer and how to use it so here we have the software folder we'll go to this last we've got model folder here we have Buddha and it is in a G-Code and STL file so you can can see what you're working with here and they include quite a few here we've got some kind of Nutcracker very interesting so if you want to print this you can they also do have the Jeep code for it flower pot a little picture of it here and the STL file tool holder this could be quite useful so it looks like it goes around on the right side on the back of the z-axis bracket and this would be quite useful to print out so you can keep all your tools there that's pretty awesome and there's sdl and G-Code file so also a couple other folders looks like it says 30 minute benchy and a 18 minute benchy very cool but I think we can make our own benches so let's go ahead and install the software and we'll see what we got here so we got a PDF for the slicing software it's like an introduction and how to use it and looks like this is for Windows I'm actually going to be using Mac so it's quite similar but are some differences and installations but this basically goes over how to use the whole slicer which is basically Cura if you've ever used that you shouldn't have any issues but you guys can see we have two files we have one for the Mac which is a DMG and exe which is for Windows so since I'm using a Mac let's go ahead and install the DMG but what we're going to need to do is just grab the logo here and drag it to the applications and it installs as simple as that we can see it it's almost 400 megabytes to 380 and it's done so now we'll exit all this out put this to the side and open elegu Kira size this up to the window oh I guess that should be good and down here we can see there's already an update available we're just going to exit that out for now and so what we need to do next is add the printer so we're going to click here where it says Neptune 3 plus was the last printer I use then we're going to click add printer and then we're going to click on add non-network printer here below and as you can see we have custom or elegant since this is Taylor to just elegoo we have all of their printers here so as we can see we got all the Neptunes and also Saturn on the very bottom but yeah here's the Neptune 4 so we're going to choose that click add and what that's going to do is going to give us all of the parameters to that printer so let's go ahead and throw in a calibration cube in here we'll zoom in a little closer so if you click on the model it's going to highlight it and here on the left side we have some controls we can do so this is the move control and you can just grab the arrows and drag it or you can enter the parameters here the next one we got is scale so you can also just grab it and scale it I'm going to control Z that to go back or you can put in the dimensions or percentages and we have rotate and below that we got more options that you can mess with which is really nice but we're going to stay here pretty basic guys so if we go to the right side on the top here we can see that this is where our profiles are and our parameters so right now we're on the regular Neptune 4 profile so definitely a good place to start and you can kind of adjust as you go from here so if we click over here where it says normal we can see we have find and Ultra fast and also if you click on these little dots here you want to make sure that you are in at least Advanced most likely you're going to be in basic which is going to be quite minimal things you can change but you know depending on your skill level what you want to do usually I stay in advance and sometimes go to expert if I need something more but yeah if we go click Advanced we can see a lot more options pop up and here you can adjust all of the parameters to your slice so I'm just going to run through them real quick everything looks good here I like to see the wall count of three which it is the bottom layers are at six but let's change them to five fill gaps is everywhere but I like to turn it to nowhere I'm going to leave all the temperatures the way they are as it is going to be quick Printing and here you guys can see the prints speeds are quite fast for this kind of printer and the reason for that is because we have Clipper software now which does great with Fast Printing so we'll see how our initial prints come out so yeah everything looks good here we got retractions cooling is on the only thing I might change is the regular fan speed at layer 3 instead of two give it a couple good layers before it goes too regular another thing I don't think I want is brim which is the plate adhesion as that's going to layer around the print to try to hold it down so I think with the bed we got I usually like to skirt three around the print usually unless it's a large one and everything else looks pretty good guys and over here we have spiralized outer Contour which we can also try out which is going to print a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around but yeah that's pretty much it you can play around with these settings and kind of fine tune your print with the temperature speeds retractions things like that so yeah once you're done doing all that you're going to click the slice button and as you guys can see it says 12 minutes to do this Cube which is very impressive and very fast for this kind of printer so we can click on preview here to see all right so for some reason the preview doesn't work so probably have to restart the Slicer in any case you can preview it from here and kind of go through the layers let's just go ahead and save it to the removable and the reason it's here is because we plugged in the thumb drive so you can also save it straight to your computer by choosing save to files yeah I'm going to save it straight to the thumb drive and it's going to save it and we can eject it from here also but we're not going to do that double click here on the bed on the model and clear it and let's go ahead throw the bench in and everything else should be where we left it so we're going to click slice and look at that guys 35 minutes for this adventure I mean it's not lightning fast but you know for this kind of printer this is very very quick and honestly if it looks good this would be quite impressive indeed so let's go ahead and save this benchy to our removable and it saves and we can eject it but let's go ahead and see if they're in there yep there they are so we got the benchy and the calibration Cube so yeah let's go ahead and inject and now we can remove it and take it to our printer and by the way let's check out the preview there we go now the preview works so if we look up close here we can go through the layers here and how it's going to print so this is going to take 35 minutes surprisingly to print hopefully this was somewhat helpful and it should get you started but if you want to learn more how to use the cure there's a lot of great tutorials out there foreign all right so the cube and the benchy are done and yeah quite impressive and what's kind of crazy is that you know this is a betslinger so we do have the normal I3 setup but we're having really great results with the prints at the speeds that they're printing so the cube did finish in 13 minutes or at least what it said on the display so I definitely believe the 12 minutes and the benchy finished at 38 minutes I believe something like that so A few minutes over the 35 predicted again with the heat up time that probably takes a couple minutes there so very close to their estimated times on the slicer so again very impressive but yeah let's go ahead and look at the cube so the accesses matter and this is the x-axis which goes this way and we can see hopefully you guys can see so the X looks really good considering this only took 12 minutes to print then we got the Y here we got a little bit more vibrations not terrible but there are some there slight ghosting we got the X wall pretty clean and the Y wall also quite clean a little more vibrations and slight ghosting on the edge there but yeah not bad at all guys for this kind of speed the bottom looks good and the top is also great so yeah for the speed that we're doing I would say these are great results and they really speak here on the benchy so we are a little bit too close to the bed so I do need to offset it a little better I do have a slight elephant foot but if we look at the print we can see we've got really nice walls on the bottom there a little bit something here but keep in mind this is a 35 minute benchy so it is quite quick for this kind of printer the layers are sitting great now if you do see like lines that's just the way the light hits the print it's quite smooth overall and surprisingly we can even read back there it says hashtag 3 wrenchy which is pretty clean the walls look great good cooling minimal vibrations and ghosting so overall very very impressive and the top also looks great quite incredible here for the Neptune 4 printing with the Clipper software which really speeds everything up now this printer does advertise input shaping but I haven't really seen any kind of settings in the menus but I think it's kind of built in already into the software with the build plate and the hot end it's preset Factory and we can see in the prints they look quite clean so elegu made it quite simple to just slice and print and you have good results so I'm going to go ahead and print everything at these speeds because I feel like even though we can probably get much better quality going slower I feel like for what is producing at these speeds is quite good I will print out a few more things and see how that goes and also I want to try to do abs and also we'll do TPU and we'll see how spiralized mode goes so we're printing away and I figured something out about the fans here in the back obviously you can turn them on and off so if I turn it off you guys can see how quiet that is if we turn it back on it's quite loud and the reason it's loud is on the display here if you click on the fan here just click on it you guys can see there's a little menu here that pops up and it says mute normal and violet so if we click on normal it slows down a bit so it's quite a bit quieter and if we click on mute it slows down even more so there's some pretty good airflow still it's not as crazy but I feel like mute is probably enough for most everything and we have quite a bit of air flowing here off the front and normal yeah quite a bit more and should be a lot more adequate but yeah if we click out of it we can see normal is 80 and mute is at 50 so that's cool how you can control it here from the display on the external fan because I was wondering if that was even possible as it was quite loud on the normal 100 and I feel like you probably don't need that unless you're going to be you know Ultra printing so I'm gonna try normal and the mute mode so right now I'm printing on mute and it's actually quite pleasant but before it was definitely too loud so I went ahead and printed out that the tool holder and this is what it looks like it's actually a pretty cool and unique little bracket that'll hold all of our stuff in here and it Clips on here on the back on the side where the screen is so I printed this out of PLA and it turned out really good and should work pretty well for this purpose so we're just going to literally slide it on there so there's like a little Channel there that it kind of goes into and just gonna push it and it clicks on there and it holds on really good and now we can load it up with our tools so on these holes we got the two screwdrivers Phillips and the flat maybe I can turn it here a little more so you guys can see better and then these slots here for the wrenches the larger one goes first and then the smaller one and then we've got the Allen wrenches big is too small very nice we also have the needle that goes right over here kind of hard to see but it's like a little dot that slides into these two slots are for like a Micro SD card which I'm putting the one that was the gift with the adapter and by the way there's nothing on here it's just empty that goes there the adapter actually goes right here and then our little yellow spatula I think let's see yeah it goes like this I believe so it kind of has to go behind the wrenches and in so that goes there and this guy here actually just hangs right here on this little tab like that quite easy to grab these cut your filament hang them back you know grab your wrench even grab this little spatula here and do what you got to do with it so yeah very nice and clean way to organize all of the tools thank you alright so these are all the prints that we printed and I have to say guys the Neptune 4 is a very compelling printer not only does it deliver great print quality it has so many features and also running on Clipper really helps it take it to the next level so we do have a few things to look at we've seen the little buddha here the benchy the cube let's look at this little frog next everything was printed in pla 250 millimeters a second setting in the slicer so it was very quick I don't remember the times of all these but this was not very long at all and you guys can see all of our layers are still sitting very nicely and everything is quite smooth also very minimal stringing we've got a little bit on the bottom but yeah between the ice here is pretty much perfect so yeah very impressive print with the Frog here we have a planter then this was actually included with the printer so we didn't slice this but yeah it's basically a little Bowl here that you put soil in and you can water it and that's what the holes are for so yeah if we look at the walls they look really nice and this print also printed very quickly and yeah very solid Quick Print so the bottom line is is the printer gets the job done much quicker so here we have a pretty crazy Contraption and yeah I've never printed this before but I wanted to see what it was and yeah I don't think I'm gonna print it again at least at this size it's too big number one and it looks like the tolerances are quite wobbly so we can probably scale it down but this is pretty cool to see if the printer is accurate and as you can see with this thing we had no issues so it just popped right off and started working I'm pretty sure scaling this down would still work so maybe that would be a good print for the future but yeah you guys can see all the details here it's in white a little hard to see but very nice print and again this was printed at very quick speeds and didn't take long at all to print so pretty cool print but probably needed to be a little bit smaller but with that said we do have this gear here and it is called bearing so all the parts here are printed separately and we should be able just to spin it up let's see the bottom there pretty much perfect adhesion to the plate and by the way all the prints are 0.2 layer height and Pla here so far so let's see if it can break it Loose here I can feel that they're loose enough because like there's some play which is good and there we go so yeah it broke loose just by hand which is a great indication of extremely good tolerances and that's exactly what we got we got just a little bit of movement in there well actually a perfect amount of movement this is how it's supposed to be actually a little looser than tighter as they can spin so easily freely uh yeah most printers don't get it this good this one is perfect so yeah as far as tolerances go excellent print and you can print functional prints like this with ease on this printer here we have a fun one which is a millipede and it's a bunch of separate pieces that combine and it turned out pretty good there's a little bit of blobbing and some stringing pretty minor but considering the speed it was printing at it's very respectable you guys can see it looks really good so there is supposed to be like a little texture on it that's why it looks the way it does but yeah the impressive part is all of the feet stuck to the build plate and then just popped off so yeah again this Pei sheet is great so I did print an ABS and that's these wheels here and I did slow down a little bit for abs as you know we have to be much hotter and it was 270 on the nozzle and 100 on the build plate held on great and this is what was on the plate here you can see the finish so these are our little RC wheels for RC car we do have a support here let's see how easy that comes off look at that perfect yeah even with abs here at least for these wheels it did a really good job and the speed was 180 instead of the 250 and you guys can see it flowed well and everything is quite even and it looks great for abs prints so yeah for smaller ones like these wheels here there's no issue sticking and printing pretty quickly so for the last ones here let's look at this large one so this is like a statue or a bust of Deadpool it's in this blue kind of Matty filament 0.2 layer height the normal 250 millimeters a second speed that was in the slicer overall looks great so we do have a little bit of ringing here and there which is you know expected somewhat the bottom is super clean I mean literally Perfection and if we look a little closer here at the details you guys can see it all looks great now we did have a little bit of drupage here on the overhangs under the arms and that's probably because I turned the auxiliary fan down and maybe that wasn't enough for the amount of heat that we're putting in the nozzle 220 so but yeah other than this line here that you guys maybe can see that goes through the print not sure what happened there but seems like a glitch in the G-Code or something yeah it's pretty much perfect even up here on his face it looks pretty good so yeah 0.2 layer height for this print and it's quite large almost filling up to the very top so for the last two prints here we got spaceships and one of them is in TPU and actually I got two pieces here now normally what I do is I print TPU it's spiralized mode to show you the double function that TPU is so great for here you guys can see on the very bottom like the layers are sitting beautifully you can kind of see how smooth they are there but as we went up it started kind of doing funny things there so it almost seems like it was kind of confused and spiralized mode because usually you need to turn off recovery mode but this printer doesn't have any function for that the only thing we have is to turn off the filament detector and this is why I decided to print another print and we still have the same result so that didn't really help us so yeah if you're going to do spiralized prints that apparently are small like this it won't work and the reason I say that is because we have a spiralized print back there which turned out fine for whatever reason but yeah as far as TPU goes it prints great you guys can see here on the bottom it's very solid and you know we can bend this thing up pretty well and it'll just bounce right back so TPU is great for specific needs that require a lot of bending and whatnot else and just durability so I would say TPU prints well but for spiralized it's questionable and the reason for that is we have this print here which by the way is the full height of 265 and this print is called a rocket plane and this is in spiralized mod which is we got a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way around so it's Hollow to the very top and what's crazy that for the most part this printed perfect and let's start here from the bottom so yeah it stuck well to the build plate as usual and you guys can see how smooth those layers are so that is incredible for sure and this is pla now if you guys see this line right here that's actually my fault the spool was Tangled so instead of pausing in and restarting it which will leave a blob I ended up cutting the film and then fixing and putting it back in which when I was putting it back in I put some pressure on it that's what that line is but yeah if we ignore that you guys can see it puts the layers down beautifully all the way to the top which is incredible so yeah very stable and beautiful layering and even around these Corners here it looks beautiful so and it's not always perfect there so now if we look closer here to the very top we can see when it got smaller it started to under extrude again kind of like on the TPU spaceship so yeah it does still have the issues so my guess is spiralized prints that are smaller in diameter for some reason it does have an issue but larger ones it seems to do okay but that would be something that elugu can maybe incorporate in a software update being able to turn off power Zoom recovery mode internally here in the printer so overall I'm very impressed of what elegu put together here because they seem to push the boundaries on the value of what you pay compared to what you get so yeah the Neptune 3 was a great printer the pro especially and now the four here is even better than that and it does everything so well for a very reasonable price so for that I give it a huge thumbs up and definitely would recommend it especially if you're getting started so if you do want to pick one up for yourself I'll have some links in description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button and if you want to see more videos check out my 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and also stay tuned for more videos there's quite interesting stuff coming up and if you made it to the end thanks for watching and I'll catch you on the next one peace foreign

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 76,320

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, 3d printed, neptune 4, neptune 4 pro, elegoo neptune 3 pro, neptune 3 pro, 3d print, how to 3d print, best 3d printer, elegoo neptune 4, elegoo neptune, high speed 3d printing, high speed 3d printer, 3d printer review, 3d printing for beginners, direct drive, klipper firmware, 3d printer projects, 3d printer in action, 3d printer time lapse, 3d printer software, 3d printers for beginners, 3d printer 2023, 3d printing time lapse, Just Vlad

Id: LO5FNFwP-rE

Length: 55min 31sec (3331 seconds)

Published: Fri Jun 16 2023