Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro - Klipper 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

in this video we're going to be taking a closer look at the elu Neptune 4 Pro so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hope you guys enjoy it let's get [Music] started [Music] [Music] all right so the Neptune 4 Pro comes in this box it's pretty good size not too big so let's go ahead and open it up so we're packed with dark soft foam and we got everything nestled in here so all of our accessories and parts are in here and then we got the Gantry on this upper layer so we get a power cord looks like about 4 ft long us type the screen holder that's magnetic the spool holder which comes in two pieces the external Parts cooling fan which has four fans yeah we have a little plug here and on and off switch very nice and here we have a bag which has a lot of stuff in there and we'll go through this in a second so let's go ahead and pull out the Gantry which is the upper portion and this looks quite familiar the design materials now the big difference on the X rail here we can see there's a metal rail linings for the all metal roller so yeah it's metal on metal very high precision and should be much more durable so that's a great upgrade we do have dual z-axis which are Tethered on the top with this belt and we're going to take a closer look at everything in a bit so that's our first layer very nice padding below that we can see we have have the base and also our screen here and our hot end assembly so let's check this thing out as it comes separate now that we need to pre-install is kind of nice cuz we can take a closer look and here we can see the back which we have this Junction board this is where the main cord comes in our heat brake dual Parts cooling fans on the side here the heat block insulated with the sock and the nozzle on the top we can see a gear there and this is where our filament goes in with a release arm for the extruder all right so the front actually slides off and here we can see a little better the whole motor and that's for the extruder here we have a little fan underneath there that's the Heat breake fan that sucks air here and then blows through the back out very interesting and yeah very nice design the extruder is all inside there so if we look underneath we also have an LED light there so yeah very nicely built and engineered and constructed we also have the leveling probe here so yeah very cool and definitely a wellb built part so here we have the screen it's still the same with pretty large bezels but I guess the only thing I wish is they would downscale it a bit so it's easier to hold and pick up but other than that these are great and El has been using these on the Neptune printers for a bit and I'm guessing they haven't upgraded yet because they want to keep the whole system as price friendly as possible and on the very bottom we have the base which is also quite familiar and looks great and we do have the flexible Pi sheet which is awesome so let's move this out of the way and that looks like everything for the Box and we're going to bring the base back in and I'm going to lay it down upside down so we can see here what's underneath so we have the power supply over here and then on this side we have a cover where all of our electronics are so I'm going to go ahead and pop this off so we can see what's inside and before we do that let's take a closer look of what's in this bag so we get a USB cable and this is to connect the printer to a computer we also get an ethernet cable if you want to use the lane options or the networking so you can control the printer from a browser you can hard wire it straight to your router get some snippers and these are really nice especially for cutting filament on an angle a little spatula this could be useful to get underneath the nozzle a tiny coil of pla filament way too small to be useful but it is included some zip ties to organize wiring we got our filament detector that we'll need to install a cleanout needle and this could be helpful to unclog a nozzle a pretty hefty bag of Bolts hardware things like that and we're going to use this to assemble the printer we get some tools like Allen wrenches Phillips flat screwdriver and an open-ended wrench and the last two here is a thumb drive with an extra PTF 2B liner looks like and some nozzles and this thumb drive is going to have like your manual and things like that in there and here we also have looks like a little gift or giveaway with micro USB adapter to USB with card in there so yeah we got quite a few things here let's go ahead and grab our Phillips screwdriver and we're going to take off five bolts here on top and actually guys they're little screws all right so this should just pop off and there we go we can go ahead and unplug the fan which you guys can see is quite large and this cools off the area underneath where the main board is all right so let's take a closer look here so this is the Neptune's new board which is running on Clipper so we got heat sinks on the stepper drivers they are non removable and integrated there's another large heat sink here here it looks like we have some kind of emmc which is memory or storage everything is hot glued all the connector C we got power coming in here from the power supply and everything going out in different directions here's our lane input from the side which is the Ethernet plug and then all of our USB connections are here/ the screen and the micro SD card yeah overall quite nice and well built so I'm going to put the lid back on and we'll start the assembly so maybe you guys notice that there is no actual paper manual that's included with this printer and you're going to find the instruction PDF on this card here I went ahead and put it on my phone yeah this is a pretty good manual very well laid out these are all the parameters of the printer here it shows us what every part is all the parts that are included and then we got step one here and it's not too bad guys it's actually quite straightforward of how to put this thing together and we'll go step by step so for step one they do want us to put the hot end on but I think I'm going to do that after step three because it will be a lot easier to put the hot end on when the Gantry is still and so for step three we're going to need four hm45 bolts which are going to be in here and everything is nicely labeled that's these guys here which are black let's go ahead and pull this foam out from the bottom and we'll turn this sideways a bit and you guys can maybe see here right on top there's like a little Groove with two holes and these go all the way down and this is where our Gantry is going to connect so we're just going to set it right over watch out for your little wires there on the back both sides then we're going to grab a bolt go from underneath and start by hand so to make it easier you could prop it up with something like a spool of filament or whatever else you got but yeah it ain't too bad let's go ahead and grab our largest Allen wrich and we're just going to run these bolts down but we're not going to tighten them so just run them down and now we can flip around and do this other side so this wire here is a little bit in the way but if you just push it to the side there's enough room there guys not too difficult again we don't want to tighten this just run it down and the reason for that is because we want to run our z-axis all the way down and we're just going to grab the belt up here and turn it that's going to go down you can also turn the coupler and it'll go down just a little slower but yeah we're just going to go down as far as it goes and the reason for that is because we want the two channels here to be spaced out perfectly before we tighten them when we bring this down this should space it out right where it needs to be between the two channels so now we can go back to those four bolts underneath and tighten them up so snug them up pretty well as this is the only thing holding it up and we'll do the same thing here all right so now we're going to go back to step one and install our little bracket and hot end on the Cradle here on our x-axis so everything we need is in this little baggie relief bracket and the four bolts so I'm going to bring this up a bit we actually got six bolts two long ones and four shorter ones let's grab our hot end assembly you can see we got like little brass bushings this is where the bolt will go through this piece here on the metal cradle now on M there is a zip tie here and I'm guessing this is maybe to warn you to check make sure this is not loose before you put everything on as it does appear that these metal rollers are adjustable here so let's go ahead and get the zip tie off and maybe you guys can kind of see that we do have a little adjustment there but on mine it seems like it's perfect so nothing needs to be adjusted so we can go ahead and proceed to installing the hot end we'll literally line up with these Four Points here just like this I probably can see a little better from the back as this lines up at the same time our bracket goes here going on like this and so the two longer bolts will go on the top grab the correct allen wrench so it is a bit tedious here with holding everything together while trying to put the bolts in at the same time but obviously it's not impossible and then two on the bottom which are the short ones it is probably not the best angle here guys but yeah they go under here and then two right here snug them up make sure you tighten them pretty well and that's it so now we're going to go back to the front and then we're going to grab the last two little bolts and these are going to go right here and that's what's going to hold the cover from sliding off so yeah not too hard to figure out here pretty straightforward all right everything's looking good here and quite solid so we've done step one and step two and also step three so now step four is going to be installing the little side holder for the scen and that's going to be on this side right over here you can see the three threads so we got the holder here I'll line up and then the bag here of bolts that says m420 and there's three of them we can see there's three holes and the one that's close to the metal here is a little harder to get to as it is magnetic slash the wrench is not long enough as you guys can see to turn it so it's a little bit tedious but obviously doable and yeah it'll line up on those holes there and you guys can see there so now we're just going to snug them up and something to note that the wrenches included do have like a rounded out in so it's quite easy to screw on an angle as it still continues to work even on a pretty offc centered path so and our screen holder is on so for step five we're going to be installing the screen itself which is very simple it's literally just going to sit and magnetize to the holder and then we're going to plug the coiled wire right here on the front of the printer just like that and for step six we got quite a few things going on here we're going to install the spool holder we're also going to install the wire that goes to the hot end little bracket with a bolt that holds that down and also the filament detector so yeah a couple things here for step six so since we're down here let's go ahead and do the wire which is this flat wire that GS out from the side and it's going to go here and actually everything that splits is before the bracket like that and then everything after is going to the hot in here and this is the cable clamp bracket that comes with a bolt so it's it's quite interesting how narrow it is compared to our cable but we should be able to fit it in there and on the back of it you guys can see there's a little nub that actually sits in right there in a hole and then the other bolt goes in it's a little interesting looking how it goes but let's see if we can get it in there so I think we're going to have to Bunch up the flat wire a bit so it is quite close to the lead scare and actually wants to touch it at this angle but that's the way they show so I think instead of putting the nub into that hole I'm just going to butt it against the outside here as that'll keep the cable away from the lead screw so for whatever reason they designed it where it touches the lead screw if you go deeper in but yeah I think this right here is perfect and actually keeps the cable exactly where it needs to be so maybe you guys can see a little better there how I installed it it was supposed to go all the way over here but it was touching the lead screw so I just went and put it on the outside like that so and if we go back to the front here we can see we got plenty of cable and on the hot end itself we can spread these little clips and then plug it in it'll lock in like that then we can put the cable into the strained relief bracket just like that so if we go to one end we can see that the cable's definitely long enough to go either way we can actually pull it back a bit if we need to but yeah that looks pretty good all right so now we're here on top and we're going to be installing the spool holder so we got this main part here and there's a couple bolts that go down into the frame on top and these are the m418 two of them so if we look here we can see there's a couple nuts that move inside the channel and what we're going to do is line up the two holes there with those nuts just like that so we can see one of them quite easy and then the other one if you don't Ty the first one it should be quite easy also to kind of find and there we go so when they're both started we can go ahead and see about where we need to be and it's somewhere right in the middle of this logo here now if you can you might want to go this way a little more if the little wire here allows you but we'll see in a second the reason why is because we want to try to Center up our spool as much as we can tighten it up so if we go from the side you guys can see we have a little brass insert there and that's going to hold our filament detector and so we got the detector itself and a little bolt here that goes through the bracket and then into here so yeah we're just going to Simply screw the bolt in and you want to make sure the bracket is in the correct orientation tighten that up and it should be loose moves around and yeah our filament is going to literally come from the top here down into the detector rolling on this holder here that we still have to install and it can go either way but we need it on this side as our detectors here so let's go ahead and screw that on all right now we can plug in the detector just like that and looks like there's enough reach and that's about all we can go this way with the whole thing but you guys can kind of see maybe so the film is going to roll out into the detector and then down into the hot end and it can Flex as it needs to quite easily all right and so that was part six and now we're going to seven which we're going to be installing the auxiliary cooler to the back and then for step eight we're just plugging everything in and that's going to be everything for the assembly so yeah all right so looking at the back of the printer of our x-axis we can see there's three holes our blower here with the controls going up and the blowing part down is going to connect right here on the three holes just like that and the three bolts are m44s which will go through the front and then into the holes where they'll thread in so yeah pretty straightforward here on installing the external cooler so we can go ahead and plug it in and the wire comes here from the side and actually we probably should have put it through the bracket here with the other wires but I think I can just slot it in there there we go so we'll plug that in and if we go to this side where our main cable comes out we can see we have a couple plugs here which are both x-axis one for the motor which plugs underneath and the other for the end stop switch which plugs here on the side go to the back to the bottom corner we can see we have quite a few plugs here the large one that says Z is going to plug in down here to the motor and then these just correlate once larger and the other one smaller we're going to plug them in just like that make sure that they're not in the way of the bed traveling everything looks good here so our W wires are all connected already just make sure they're plugged in and then to this corner we have another Z plug for the motor and that is all of the wires and we're pretty much done except for maybe we need to check the belts so they're usually a little loose so there's a tightener here for the Y and you want to feel it how tight it is don't go crazy tight and also for the X here also make sure it's nice and tight and you want to definitely feel the belt because you can't tell how much you're tightening it just on the knob so and as far as the rollers go they're all pre-adjusted from the factory seem to be good for x and Y now the rollers that we can adjust are these that ride on the channels for the Z and mine are actually pretty good and I don't need to adjust them but if you do you do have a wrench that you can spin an Ecentric nut on the inside here on the tube that'll go farther and closer but if you're wheels are close I wouldn't mess with it as we do have dual Z axis lead screws and everything is quite stable and as simple as that guys we are done with the assembly so for the next part let's take a closer look in a little more detail all right so the Neptune 4 Pro here looks pretty good on the table quite familiar from the last models except with some pretty major upgrades so let's start up here on the top we got the spool holder and mounts right here to the channel we got a filament detector that swivels around everything's metal here including these brackets we can see our pretty unique channels that says create the future on them on both sides flipping around to the back we can see we have a tethered belt between the two dual lead screws which I really like this because everything is synchronized together together we can see the filament wire travel through the channel down and out we got metal for the ends on both sides this is the x-axis motor and where it plugs and also the end stop switch we got this pretty cool Parts cooling fan which is external it's got an on andof switch here and then the power cable and it is quite smart as it is regulated by the main board and it does blow right underneath the nozzle here we can kind of see the back of the hot end and the metal rollers with the metal strain relief bracket that holds this cable here and I kind of installed this going here because I didn't want it to be too close to the lead Square as I was touching it on these holes so yeah so going down we have the dual motors here on both sides our ya axis motor and then the inst stop switch here the wire coming from the bed which is strained reliefed very nicely and goes into the back here pretty large squishy feet on four corners we do have the power supply back here which we can see that we can switch between 230 and 115 and looks like it is Factory switch to 230 so if you live some somewhere where it's 115 you will need to switch that and we can do that with the provided flat screwdriver that was included and yeah just make sure you're at the correct voltage before you power it on so moving this way see we got our power input Port it is fused with an on and off switch our cable management is very nice for this main cable going up so going back to the front here right on the top we can see the relief bracket and here we have the input for the filament and this is the extruder arm to release it got a little gear here that we can see when the filament's flowing very nice and going down here we can see blower fan for the parts cooling on both sides and behind here we can kind of see the induction sensor and underneath we got the heat block which is silicone socked with the nozzle and also we got a little light here and you guys can see where the fan blows out here on both sides also this little hole here is where you can adjust the tension on the extruder so going this way we have the x-axis in stop switch metal rolled rails adjustment for the belt here going down to the bed we do have a 225x 225x 265 build volume and the build plate itself is a textured PE sheet which does pop off it is magnetic and it's flexible and it's just a chrome finish on the other side but yeah I love these beds they work great underneath that we got the magnetic mat and then our heated aluminum bed which is not insulated and for this size it's not a big deal the frame seems to be pretty thick and straight and then we got quality Springs with adjuster knobs that are good size and here in the very front we got our adjustment for the belt on the Y ax over here we have the manufacturing label pretty clean going here unfortunately no storage anywhere but right under here you guys can see we got our micro SD port and it is kind of hard to get to sort of cuz it's right underneath this but you're probably going to mostly use the USB drive anyway and we also have a USB type-c connection here and at the very end we got our port for the screen which I really like about eligo as they have these removable screens they're still a little large and the bezels are a little big I wish they'd make them a little smaller and nicer looking but still for what what you get and this is awesome and they just magnetize to the Cradle here and you can pick it up look at it and then put it down and there is a sticker here that reminds us to check our voltage which we did already so let's go ahead and peel the screen protector off so going from the screen this way you can see we have an ethernet port and that's going to be if you want to connect your printer to your router and have access through it through a web portal which there is quite a few features especially this being a Clipper printer so yeah overall a pretty feature packed printer put this bed back on I wish there was some something to butt against as it's kind of hard to line it up perfectly every time but yeah I mean the pro here definitely brings some really cool things like these metal rails with metal rollers on the X and Y which would really give us more precision and longer life overall so for the next part I'm going to plug it in we'll power it on preheat it check make sure everything works and level the bed all right so I got the pritter plugged in let's go ahead and powered on I can hear the fans we got the logo here on the display and and there we go so it took about 30 seconds or so to start up um the first thing I'm going to do is go to settings and turn down the brightness under advanced settings here so I can film The Screen a little better and you guys can see here we can also turn on and off the key sounds so what's great about elu is that they're able to integrate the Clipper software seamlessly into their design if you use the eligo printer before this is very intuitive and easy to understand so here on the main menu we can see we got print prepare settings level and our temperature and location parameters there so let's go ahead and click on prepare and we'll click home all in the middle and we'll see make sure everything works so Z went up x y and now coming down and looks like that working also down here we can see it says temp I'm going to click on that and now we're going to preheat everything and I'm just going to click on ABS here and it's going to start preheating 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed and if we go back to the main main menu we can see here that our nozzle and bed are rising in temperature so yeah looks like everything is working which is perfect so for the next part let's go ahead and do the bed leveling and we're going to click on the level here it's asking us to confirm it's going to move into position and here we get a new menu that shows us the offset and then we got a couple choices of auxiliary and automatic so the first thing we want to do is do the auxiliary leveling which is going to be the manual one with these knobs and then we'll click on add a and finish that so let's click on auxiliary it kind of explains to you how to do it we going to click confirm and you guys can see we got 1 2 3 4 Five Points we can click on on the bed to get the nozzle to go there so you're going to need some kind of piece of paper I'm just using this little posty note and so what we're going to do is click on one and then 2 3 4 and just keep going around until it's pretty much perfect so I'm going to click on one so we're going to stick our little paper between the nozzle and the bed and I can see already that it's too tight so yeah essentially what we're doing here is doing manual bed leveling and what we're trying to do is get some friction in the paper between the nozzle and the bed so we go to two again it's too close and this one's actually completely loose in the back so yeah this is why it's quite important to go ahead and do the step and not just start printing all right that feels pretty good go to three this one's too loose there we go now we go to four and this one's too tight so yeah they're all going to be a little different so since we had to adjust the kind of a lot we definitely need to go around again so I would recommend at least three times so let's go ahead and keep clicking all around so we're back to one now the reason this is kind of important is the closer you get it the less compensation the automatic bed leveling has to do and the better first layer you're going to have so so yeah since we started adjusting the bed kind of moved around and so now everything needs to be adjusted again this is again why it's important to keep adjusting it a few times around all right so we're starting to get really close as Everything feels pretty good it just needs to be slightly slightly tuned so that means we're Ultra close and you know if you go at least three times you should get you there but I just keep going around until everything feels the same and it's such a tiny slight adjustment at this point so yeah we're pretty much there and we can go ahead and hit the home button in the middle and see what our home feels like so mine is just a little bit loose which is okay because the outer bed leveling will compensate for any kind of dips or Heights in the bill plate all right so now we're going to go back and it's actually going to prompt us to do outof bed leveling which is pretty cool so we're going to confirm if you don't get this prompt just go back and click on auto leveling so yeah we're going to confirm to do out of bed leveling so this is going to take a little while as there's a few points to go through but yeah it's just going to go around the bill plate and probe it and take measurements and then when it's printing it's going to offset that as it's putting the first layer down and I don't know if you guys can see but there's a total of 30 six points that it's going to take so all right and that's all 36 points so now it's going to set up so we can do our offset and also down here you guys can see what our variations are between the different points of the bed and everything is looking really good nothing is more than .14 looks like and16 and that corner is a little bit low but that's okay it's still very close tolerance so we're going to grab our little posty note now and go underneath the nozzle and we're going to check and see if we need to set the offset any and looks like we do and we need to go down a little bit so we're going to choose the increments that we want to go down so I'm just going to go very slowly at 01 if you're much higher up you might want to go1 mm so let's go ahead and go down slowly and actually I think I'm a little higher so I'm going to go 0.1 millimeters at a time there we go it's grabbed it back to 01 now I'm going to go up cuz now it's a little too tight and we're starting to be pretty much perfect I think yep that does feel really good so you want the same drag that you kind of did all around so just the papers with some slight drag so our offset ended up being minus 1.750 so yours is going to be different every printer is different and this is why you calibrate it to each one so once you do all this you're pretty much done and all you got to do is click the back button and it's going to save everything so we're going to confirm the save and we go back to the main menu so let's quickly go over everything so we got print here and this is where it's going to read the files off of the thumb drive we got prepared this is where we're going to do moving and homing releasing the steppers temperature is our hot buttons for preheating let's go ahead and preheat PLA and extruder is going to give us controls over the load and unload and how much and the speed so if we go back we got settings this is going to be where we can change our language and we got quite a few to choose from temperature setting so let's say if you want to change your pla settings you can do that here so every time you preheat it it'll preheat to what you've saved there a light control which we do have two lights on this printer one underneath here and then one from the top going down so the headlight is the one up here and the observation light there the one under here you guys maybe can see it powered on we can toggle our fan on and off motor off and that's going to release the steppers filament detector is turned on factory settings so you can reset everything about the machine we can see here the name the version and on the build volume and also how to contact the company and on the very bottom we got advance settings and this is where we adjusted the brightness of our screen so yeah very intuitive and quite easy here for the settings and then we have the level button which we just did all that so and down here's our current parameters for the printer all right so for the next part let's go ahead and load some filament and if you're going to do high-speed printing you obviously need rapid filament which this is a rapid pla plus from eligo and it's in Black so we're going to try it out today so they are using like recycled spool made out of paper material and it is vacuum sealed very well this looks like a pretty nice filament you guys can see the finish on this black so let's pull it out here we're going to grab our snippers and cut it on an angle so we can feed it easier and looking here on the top the spool will go on the spool holder and then we're going to feed it through the filament detector which by the way has a little light that comes on and then we're going to go down to the hot in extruder now before I put that in there let's go ahead and go to prepare and move the z-axis is up 10 mm so we're going to click on 10 and then z+ and that should raise it there I'm going to click it again to go a little higher so we can see a little better while we're purging so so we're going to release the extruder with this arm and then feed our filament through and we could use this cren to push it through but it's quite simple just to do it manually here and we'll just push it and we can see we're purging on the bottom so simple as that we are loaded and ready to go now if you do want to purge it here you just click on extruder so let's do 10 mm and we'll click on load and it'll push through that much you see the little gear turning here so yeah all right so we are purged let's go ahead and move this purging booger out of the way let's grab our red thumb drive which is 8 gig and we're going to plug it in right here and we'll see if we got anything with the printer so we'll click on print and we have quite a few here okay so I do see a G-Code there with the Buddha and let's see under models okay so it looks like we have STL files probably here so oh well actually there's a pla test there and a rapid test for 3D Beni so maybe we'll do that also but let's go ahead and start with this Buddha print that all eligo printers come with so we'll just click on that and it's going to load the preview so it says it's going to take 31 minutes so we're going to confirm and the print starts so the printer is looks like preheating and it's pretty close to where it needs to be and it goes ahead and start so hopefully our offset is perfect and we'll get the perfect first layer and so far is looking really good it's purging on the side and now going for the print yep you guys probably can't really see from that angle but yeah it is printing and it appears to be pretty much perfect let's go ahead and look of what we can see while we're printing so we got the model the name of it the percentage that's done and then there's a bar and it says 30 minutes left our Cor orates for the X and Y how much time passed our nozzle temperature our bed temperature the speed 100% the fan speed the print speed which is 95 and the flow rate at 100 so here we can go to settings pause stop or turn off and on the LED so if we click on that we have a choice between the two lights naturally stop will cancel the print and pause will pause it in the settings though we can adjust the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature we're toggling here and then down here we can go to the speed and adjust that also the flow rate and the fan speed and under adjustments we have the z-axis offset so if you do need to go a little up or a little down when you start printing you can do that right on the Fly here and also we have filament detection on and off and again we can control our lights from here too good options and layout here for the Neptune 4 Pro now one thing that I haven't done is actually turned on this auxiliary fan you guys can't see but the little switch back here is on off so I'm going to go ahead and click it on and the whole thing turns on and got a bit louder again so on the display if you click on the fan icon here you're going to have these three modes come up so you can have mute normal or violent not sure exactly what it's on right now but if we click on mute it actually slowed down it's still blowing good amount of air but it really toned down the noise level so normal and then we got Violet which is super fast yeah I'd probably use either normal or muted you know depending on how much cooling you need so right now we're not printing Crazy Fast probably mute would be more than enough and if you don't want it at all you can just turn it off here on top so we're actually printing at pretty high speeds we got a 154 there there we go like 200 mm a second so yeah it's you know boogy along pretty well but as far as the little Buddha's concerned it looks like it's going down pretty much perfect there so [Music] all right so our first print is done by the way the screen does dim if you click it it goes brighter it took 38 minutes so a little longer than it said it would so we can print again or return which is pretty cool so we'll click return and it goes back to the home menu so it's cooled off and wow popped off super easy so yeah this pi sheet works perfect I didn't even have to flex or nothing it just pops right off when it cools and the brim also came off pretty easily so let's look at the bottom here we can see that we might be a little bit too far from the bill plate but actually maybe not it does look pretty good maybe we can go down just a little bit but as far as the print itself and you guys can see how well this filament laid it's got a nice Sheen to it where we can really see the layers very accurate nothing weird no ringing or any crazy ghosting anywhere lots of detail and an excellent print overall all right well I'm pretty impressed right off the bat which I knew that I would be because this is the pro version of the four and the original four did very well also so I think for the next part let's go ahead and go to the print and we'll go to models there is a flower pot I don't think I want to print that in Black a tool holder actually this is a useful thing it's a little bracket that connects to the back side here that you can put all of your tools that was included so let's go ahead and print that that would be pretty useful so we're going to go ahead and print out this tool holder and while it's doing that let's go to the computer and slice our next print all right so I got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so we got a user manual in PDF and this is what we looked at when we built the printer it's a very good manual and explains the assembly and software and anything else you need to know about the printer here we have software and this is where we're going to download our slicer and it's available for Windows and Mac I already have the slicer installed from before we also have a model folder they give us an STL here of the Buddha and also the G-Code yeah everything here is available with the G-Code so let's go ahead and go to the slicer so once you install it you're going to open it up so when you first start it it's going to prompt you to this added printer window and we're going to go to non- network printers and go under eligo here and find our printer which is the Neptune 4 Pro I'm going to select that click next and we can see here our build volume and all of of our parameters are preset for the 4 Pro so let's go ahead and throw a Beni in there and we can see it on the plate so if we selected by clicking on it we can see the menu on the side here comes up so we can move it around either dragging it or by entering in millimeters we can also scale it make it larger also here in percentages or millimeters and we can also rotate it any direction we want here to the right so we are in the normal Point 2 and if you click on these little bars right here you want to choose advance as you're going to have more options to adjust and to look at so this is our layer height here we're just going to leave it at 0 2 and everything here should be pret to the 4 Pro but there might be a few things we will adjust so far everything is looking good our temperatures are 220 which makes sense and our speed is at 250 you can adjust accordingly but yeah 250s should be a great speed and it's already very fast for this type of printer so yeah everything actually looks really good we do have retractions at only5 which which I think should be fine but if you do get some stringing you can bump this up to8 or even 1 mm to help reduce the stringing but yeah guys everything else looks great here except for the brim which I normally don't use I'll use skirt and usually I have three line counts for that yeah guys looks like the 4 Pro here with the basic profile that they include is pretty much perfect so what we're going to do is click the slice button and it's going to slice the model and you guys can see it's going to take 38 minutes to print this thing out and so since we got our thumb drive plugged in it's going to give us an option to save straight to it or you can save it to your computer so we're just going to save to removable and it's saving and you can inject it straight from here so yeah that's pretty much the basics guys so let's go ahead and right click or double click clear the build plate and we'll go ahead and throw a calibration Cube and also slice it and that's only going to take 12 minutes so yeah as you can see guys at 250 it's very reasonable and quite [Music] quick so we got a calibration Cube we got the 38 minute Beni that we sliced and also this is the 18-minute Beni which actually finished a little faster and then we have the little tool holder back here so yeah let's start with this calibration Cube so this only took like 12 13 minutes and what's cool is that we can see the axis so this is the X quite clean this is the Y also quite good we do have a little bit of ghosting it is quite a large bed that has to move very fast at these speeds then we got the X wall and the Y wall so yeah the X and Y are pretty similar we got the bottom and the top yeah great print for the calibration ation Cube so here we have the Beni we sliced which is the 38 minutes but it actually printed in 40 minutes so in the back we can see there it says 3D beny or hashtag so yeah it's a little bit distorted but you know this is 40-minute Beni here which is pretty quick and yeah everything looks pretty good A little bit discolored from the speed adjustments very minimal ghosting or vibrations we do have some a little bit but overall you guys can see very solid beny here for 38 minutes that we sliced ourselves so let's look at this actually 17-minute Beni which is impressive wow it just popped right off now for 17 minutes it's quite surprising how well this thing came out so the back here looks pretty good it is quite Hollow so it's much lighter so there was a lot less infill the walls look very decent pretty much the same as our other Beni we do have a little bit more inconsistencies and gaps so I think a lot of stuff was turned off and optimized for the speed and again this thing feels ultra light but as you guys can see it is possible so we got the 38 minutes and the 18 there so yeah again guys it's even hard to tell and actually maybe looks a little better here on the bottom on the faster Beni than the slower we have a little more vibrations there so anyways whatever was done to the 18 minute Beni it was definitely optimized for Speed and did a great job cuz it doesn't look bad at all actually looks great but you know it's obviously not as sturdy and could probably easily break if I just put pressure on it as it is extremely light and here we also have a bracket that we printed and it looks quite good and this is actually to put all your tools in here that comes with the printer and it Clips on the back here so you can put all your Allen wrenches spatula micro SD cards thumb drive and even the snippers hang here on the side so yeah we're not going to go through putting all that in but it's quite intuitive and nice that they include this with the printer all right guys so these are all the prints that we printed on the Neptune 4 Pro so the printer is quite capable and definitely quite a solid printer just out of the box so we printed quite a few things here we've seen all these down here which was our test prints so let's go to some of our pla prints which we have this little octopus and there's no issues whatsoever sticking to the bed and then popping right off works extremely well here on this printer and by the way guys everything was printed in 2 layer height and set at 250 mm a second on the slicer so yeah all of these were printed very quickly and you guys can see with that kind of speed it's quite impressive how well everything is going down now you can speed up this printer and make it go much faster but I kind of just use the default which goes about three times faster than a more normal 3D printer that's not running on Clipper and you guys can see the detail is quite incredible and everything is just great and it's impressive that you can print prints like this in under an hour so here we have a pretty cool print as this is a frog with a tricolor filament I like to print these little frogs as they got very intricate details between the little paws here and we can see overhangs are great cooling is pretty much excellent I would say on this printer no stringing I did bump it up to8 retraction and you can go all the way to one if you need to and yeah it looks quite incredible and all the layers are sitting very well and this did not take long at all don't remember exactly but it's a Lally under 20 minutes really good at these high speeds here we have another print also in a tricolor and this is a squirtle and you guys can see again the layers are sitting really really nice sometimes when the lighting hits it just right you can kind of see the layers but it is quite good overall considering the speed there is a little bit of layering here and there but it's quite minor and yeah very nice print here of the Squirtle and if you're looking for Speed with good accuracy the 4 Pro here has no issues there and speaking of accuracy here we have a print called gear and this is a functional part and I like to print this to test out how accurate the printers are and you guys can see that's the bottom looks great this did break loose but it's not perfect so I'm not sure exactly what's going on here but I notice that this printer is not dimensionally putting the layers down exactly in a circle or at least what it seems like but it does still spin but we can kind of see there's signs of something not completely squared off as we have a gap here and then no Gap here and a gap there so yeah this could be a little bit offc centered the axis and what's causing that maybe just needs to be realigned with a square so that does happen it is something that's fixable but needs to be fine-tuned which is a little unfortunate to see on the prob bottle but it is a coincidence and it does happen once in a while so and we do have another print here that also proves that this is not completely round as I have a hard time spinning this is actually a super cool print as it's an engine with a wheel on the outside and when you spin it I guess you kind of hold it down here and you can spin the wheel you can see the Piston's kind of going and you got like a gear here that goes through these teeth here so yeah it's a really cool design but you guys can see it's not really running right and it's having a hard time and the reason for that is cuz it's not a circle and I had to kind of play with this a lot to even get it to move so yeah now going to something a little more fun is we printed this bear so my wife loves these so I'm printing a few here and there for her and this time we printed in white and you guys can see it looks really good overall the retractions are staying pretty nice as there's no stringing practically there is a little bit of layering here and there you can kind of see at the right lighting but overall it looks really good so this was also printed with 250 mm a second just like everything else and yeah you guys can see the bottom here we have a little brim to hold it down and there was no issues again with the bill plate the pi just works really good here but yeah this bear here turned out really good and didn't take too long to print either I think about 5 to 6 hours something like that so now speaking of a stress test we have this print here and this is kind of like a fabric key print so these are a lot of little pieces that have to combine together and this puts an immense stress on the extruder which has to retract thousands of times to print something like this and not only that this also shows how well the PE sheet works as every little piece stuck and none of it popped off and this is a 200x 200 sheet here it's quite incredible how well this printer did with no mistakes anywhere nothing popped off and everything is just literally perfect and this was also printed at high speed of 250 so pretty incredible and great to see that the extruder can take that kind of punishment with all those retractions so here we have some wheels and these are actually print in ABS I did slow it down a bit to 200 mm a second printing at 270 on the temperature and 90 on the bed which had no problems of getting to 100 and also having no problem sticking at those temperatures not warping as this is ABS and yeah you guys can see we do have a brim we do have supports underne underneath that should just break loose let's see all right almost perfect there's a little piece still in the center there which comes out and we can see so I wouldn't say too perfect down there in the spokes as we are a little bit stringy but you know considering how fast we were printing it seemed like maybe it didn't all stick as good as it could have now maybe turning up the heat to 280 would help but who knows that's something that you got to time in once you start speeding things up a lot of things change and I'm not used to Sprint anything especially ABS that fast but yeah it worked and it looks good and seems quite solid so yeah these are little RC car wheels that we use for our drift car and so I did want to try some TPU which we have this little spaceship here now there was an issue with this printer you guys you can see there's a major underextrusion going up from here so it looks pretty bad but down here we can see it's pretty much perfect and this is TPU so it will bend quite easy but we are kind of breaking because of the undere Extrusion but where it did do well you guys guys can see it lays down the TPU very nice so there's no issue with actual TPU printing as we do have direct drive the issue is with spiralized Printing and what's funny about that is it's only when something is small like this because we have another print here you guys can see which is also ins spiralized and it did much better than this one Clipper software at the moment for some reason can't handle spiraly mode on a smaller diameter which is kind of interesting and I hope that with some updates it'll get fixed but yeah this is what happens printer is good at TPU but not so great at spiraly mode so and we'll be able to see that here at this spaceship which is by the way still stuck to the bill plate see if we can break it Loose without moving everything off and there it goes so this spaceship is actually the full height or almost the full height of what this printer is rated for which is 265 but I do believe it can go a little more to almost 270 but this is 265 so it can easily do that so maybe depending on how much you have your bed compressed you can squeeze out a little more in any case here we can see the bottom stuck very nice and you guys saw popped off and if we look at the walls overall they look pretty decent there is a little bit of vibrations there you can kind of see them so it's not perfectly perfect layers as there's something a little strange going on in spiralized mode on this printer and what's interesting is that it did do fine all the way from the bottom to the almost the very top until it got to right here and this is where we started underextruding again till a smaller diameter starts having trouble so very strange but yeah overall the print is done and it's pretty strong and did complete which is good but again not really a strong point in spiraly mode so yeah overall it's quite a capable printer and the package it comes in is very nice as it's very easy to get started with and the pro bringing the metal rollers with rails really gives it the longetivity for the Long Haul I do love that it has dual z-axis tethered with a belt filin detection a nice light bar underneath which which I just realized that was off and it is quite bright and makes it a little nicer this external fan here does a great job of the extra Cooling and I like how you can control it on and off manually and also in the display we do have a 300 C hotend with 100 C capability on the heated bed so you can do really high temperature printing the direct drive works perfect all the wiring is very clean high quality metal Parts everywhere we do have another light under here you got adjusters on the X and Y for the belts USB connection also type c there great screen that's portable you can grab it and look at it very responsive the Clipper software is great and seamlessly integrated where anyone can use it we do have a ethernet port here that if you do connect it to your router you can control the printer completely from a web page huge rubber squishy feet on four corners automatic bed leveling compensation only thing I would have L to see is maybe a drawer here but they do have this little accessory that goes in the back where you can put all your tools in and then they kind of stay back there so that that's quite clever and cool also so yeah overall I really like this printer and if you want something that just works out of the box and is quite trouble-free and easy to put together and use and has a very stable Clipper integration the 4 Pro here definitely is worth looking at as it does build on the four with its extra features so if you guys are interested in this printer I'm going to some links in the description check it out if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this check out my 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and also stay tuned for or as we are getting into quite interesting territory with 3D printers and everyone seems to be jumping on Clipper so there's a lot more interesting stuff coming up and if you made it to the end I really do appreciate you watching and I hope to see you guys on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 66,601

Keywords: 3d printer, 3d printing, neptune 4, neptune 4 pro, elegoo neptune 4, elegoo neptune, 3d printed, 3d print, best 3d printer, best 3d printer 2023, 3d printing for beginners, 3d printer review, elegoo neptune 4 pro, 3d printing time lapse, high speed 3d printing, 3d printer in action, high speed 3d printer, direct drive, klipper firmware, elegoo neptune 4 pro review, best 3d printer for beginners, best 3d printer under 300, 3d printer time lapse, 3d printers for beginners

Id: 3d3QnE2xzBw

Length: 51min 42sec (3102 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 08 2023