Elegoo Neptune 3 Bed Leveling

hey guys Dennis back with a brand new video so do you have an elegant Neptune 3 Series printer so they have the pro the plus and the max if you have one of those three printers today I'm going to show you how to level that printer whether you just took it out of the box and assembled it or you're looking to get some better prints and you're having adhesion issues on the bed I'm going to show you how to fix those [Music] all right so here is my Lagoon Neptune 3 plus it has one of these flexible Pei sheets on you I've been using this printer now for a few months and I'm going to show you how to make sure that your bed is level all right so we're going to grab our screen and you'll notice that on the screen there is a button for a level so we're going to hit that it's going to say this will trigger Return To Zero action confirm so what it's going to do it's going to zero the X Y and Z axis all right so now what happens is after you zero all those axes out it's going to come to this screen here now if you've previously done the auto level you will have values in here and what you first want to do here is you want to look at this value right here so this is negative 2.39 millimeters that is the Z offset so you have two options for leveling your bed most people use a piece of paper what I like to use is a 0.1 millimeter metal feeler gauge people use these to check gaps on spark plugs well you can also use this to level your 3D printer now I like to use these metal feeler gauges because they're a lot more consistent than using a piece of paper when you slide a piece of paper under your printer nozzle that nozzle can actually dig into that paper and it will actually compact the paper down a little bit and you won't get really consistent results so by using a metal feeler gauge here and I'm using a .102 a 0.1 is fine I've actually seen people go all the way up to 0.2 millimeter and get really good results your next step is to set your Z offset so what we're going to do is we're going to slide the feeler gauge underneath our print head and we're going to see where we need to adjust our Z offset now one thing I do recommend is they do sell longer versions of these and it's a lot easier to get under one of these big print heads that has the integrated direct drive extruder on it then using one of these short ones but you can get in from the side so what I'm going to do is I'm going to go underneath the nozzle and see if there's any friction there and there's not so I what I need to do is I need to lower my setting okay so on your screen you have a couple options you have .01 0.1 and one millimeter I like to use .01 when it's really close if there's a significant Gap you can use 0.1 and bring it down a little bit closer but 0.01 gives you the best resolution for getting this right all right so what I'm going to do is I'm going to adjust the Z offset until I don't feel the feeler gauge coming in contact with the printhead and I have a setting of negative 2.33 so what I'm going to do is I'm going to bring it down in .01 increments until I felt just the tiniest bit of resistance on the print nozzle now you don't want it down so low where it's actually raising this up because there is a little bit of play in here where it's raising this up when you're trying to slide it under all right I'm at negative 2.39 now and I'm starting to feel a little bit of resistance here and I think uh 2.41 is going to be our number so negative 2.41 is our number for our Z offset now what we want to do is we want to manually trim the bed next so we're going to hit manual and it's going to say adjust the distance between the nozzle and the bed by turning the nuts on the bed until we have a little bit of resistance on that feeler gauge now it's basically what we just did at the Z offset position so we're going to hit confirm now this particular printer has six adjusters on here now what you want to do is you want to go through each of the six so we're going to go to position one first and it's going to bring it to the front left side and it brings it right to the front left side right above where this adjuster is and then we want to do the same thing right here and then we're gonna use our adjuster counterclockwise raises it and clockwise lowers it so we want the same feeling where it's just brushing underneath that print nozzle now what we're going to do is we're going to go to position two now this is different than the Ender you don't want to go crisscross like on an Ender because there's only a four adjusters on an Ender there's six here so there's actually adjuster on The Middle on the left and right and then one other thing before you start I forgot to mention is you want to make sure your nozzle is clean you don't want any little bits of pla hanging down because that will affect how this works [Music] so now after all six spots are done what you want to do is you want to hit the home button and it's going to say auxiliary level and completed press confirm to auto level immediately press cancel and it will clear the previous Auto leveling measurement data so we're gonna hit confirm and you're gonna see it's going to heat up the nozzle and the print bed all right so we're just going to wait for it to get up to Temp and then you'll notice that it'll go it'll start from one and it'll go all the way up to mesh Point 49 and what it does is it's using the Z sensor on here and it is calculating the offset and if you have any warpage on your bed or on your plate it's going to account for that when it does this auto level all right so we're at temp you'll see what it's going to do now is it's going to zero the X it's going to zero the Y it's going to come over zero the Z once more and it's going to zero that with that offset that we put in and it's going to go over to mesh point one which is the front left side and as it finishes on each of the mesh points that number will light up and it's fairly quick it you know it takes probably about maybe two or three minutes to go through all the points foreign [Music] level it says pay attention to the distance between the nozzle and the bed about the thickness of a sheet of A4 paper can be adjusted by Z offset so we hit confirm you'll see that now we have a bunch of new measurements here all right and what we're going to do now is since it's back in that home position we're going to check once more with our feeler gauge to see if we need to make any fine-tuned adjustments to that Z offset all right so negative 2.38 is our final Z offset and then we're basically done now we can load a model in and print it and do some tests all right guys so once your bed is level just load up a fresh print on your SD card load that into your printer put in your favorite PLA and give it a shot as you can see here we're getting perfect layer lines all right guys and if you found this video useful please do pleased to meet you I don't know there's always some kind of mess up at the end of my videos here and I always leave them in but anyways if you found the video useful make sure to drop a like and drop a comment if you want let me know if you have any ideas for uh new videos on the Lagoon Neptune I love this printer I use it all the time almost daily now um thanks for watching if you're not subscribed make sure to hit that subscribe button or else foreign [Music]

Channel: Guy of All Trades

Views: 11,925

Keywords: elegoo neptune 3, elegoo neptune 3 pro, neptune 3, elegoo neptune 3 plus, elegoo neptune 3 max, neptune 3 pro, elegoo neptune 3 pro build, elegoo neptune, neptune 3 max, elegoo, elegoo neptune 3d printer, elegoo neptune 3 max review, elegoo neptune 2s, bed leveling, elegoo neptune 3 pro leveling, elegoo neptune 3 max bed leveling, auto bed leveling, neptune 3 plus, elegoo neptune 2, neptune 3 plus elegoo, elegoo nepture 3, 3d printer, 3d printing, best 3d printer

Id: sDWxXzbgg3A

Length: 8min 5sec (485 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 07 2023