Elegoo Neptune 4 Max - XXL 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

[Music] [Music] [Applause] I'm [Music] yeah [Music] [Music] yes [Music] all right so this is the Neptune 4 Max as you guys can see this is a very large printer and even though it fits on this desk here be prepared to make quite a bit of room for this printer because this is a bed Slinger your bed is going to move quite far back so you need quite a good amount of room there I have a tape here so this desk is 36 in and to the wall there about 32 you can get away with total in depth now desk itself if we go just from the feet to the foot about 24 in which should fit on most desks it is also quite wide so you're going to need about 28 in or so and very tall with the spool and everything probably about 38 in so let's start here on the top we have the typical spool holder with the detector it does Mount here on top all the frames are metal you can see we got metal inserts we are tethered you can see wiring running here nice little designs here on the channels with to create the future Waring if we flip around to The Backs side you can see we do have two lead screws and they are tethered with the belt all metal here bearings we also got support rods that keep the printer from bending in funny ways as it is very tall here on the xaxis we got metal brackets V rollers same thing on this side except here we have the x-axis motor here's how our cable connects very clean and organized we got a very large external Parts cooling fan there's on and off switch here and also it plugs in one thing I missed on the top is we do have LED lighting there which extends the full width of this prer so we got dual z-axis motors and the wires do run up the channel here behind the little cover they all come out right here here we can see we got dual rails that the bed rides on we got a pretty thick belt for the bottom this is our motor for the y- axis on the very back it looks very clean our wire connects here to the bed is strained reliev very nicely we got adjustable knobs here only on the two edges here it's fixed here we can see how the strut brace mounts on the bottom got a little Cable Management here the ribbon cable this is where you're going to switch the voltage selection so make sure you check that we' got very large squishy feet on all four corners on the other side here we have the power input port with an on and off switch and it is fused and all the way this way we have an ethernet port and a little antenna that you do install for wireless connection with Wi-Fi flipping around back to the front can see how our motor here is what's interesting is we don't have an end stop switch so I wonder if this is like a sensing kind where it hits something and it stops cuz the Y doesn't have one either here we have the rec Drive hotend extruder assembly this is where a cable comes in a strain relieve the metal bracket and it Clips right in here very nicely organized also the assembly is plastic but it does have very good feel to it and feels quite strong and robust got a metal insert there for where the filament feeds in this is a dual gear extruder and the nozzle does heat up to 300 C which is great for hotter filaments but the bed only goes to 85c which is still quite good because this is a very large bed and by the way speaking of how large this bed is we have a print volume of 420x 420 by 480 tall so looking a little closer here on the direct drive we have a little hole there this is where you're going to adjust with an allen wrench the tension if you need to but most of the time it's just fine the way it is we got dual Parts cooling fans on each side we also have a very large external fan that blows out out of these little holes right underneath the nozzle here so lots of cooling so if we look underneath we can see we have an LED light here and we can see our tip there with the heat block and it does have a silicone sock and also here on this corner we can see the induction sensor and this uses for the z-axis and leveling and if we go this way we can see we have the adjuster for the belt on the x-axis so for the bill plate we do have a pi sheet that's huge and it is a pretty thin flexible sheet which has the pi coating on one end and the other side is just smooth finish underneath we have the magnetic mat you can see all the bolts that connect the plate to the frame underneath and it might be a little hard to see guys but we are insulated there we also have these aluminum rails that go on the front and back I guess to give it more level and then the metal frame is pretty thick and the six adjustable knobs on each of the sides so we can kind of see that the aluminum is a little bit thicker than normal which is great to see and I'm very happy that it's insulated as it should heat up reasonably quick now the only thing that's a little bit of a miss here is that there's no way to line up this really huge heat to the back there's no Stoppers so it's a little bit of a guessing game cuz once it grabs it it kind of goes and you can kind of be off usually as I am here a bit a little hard to line up so I would like to see them add some kind of stop in the back so you can butt against and just put it down so looking down here we have this large belt it is adjustable detension right here on the front so the bed does roll on the outside so we got three wheels on each side of these two rails so looking at the front we can see we have our ports USBC usba and the connection to our screen which just sits here on this tray and it's portable where you can grab it use it and put it down which is really really nice the only thing I hope for is maybe cutting down on the bezels a bit kind of miniaturizing it maybe a bit or giving it a bigger screen would be nice with smaller bezel but go ahead and peel this and by the way again remember to check your voltage and if we go this way we can see on this side we actually have a drawer which I put all the little pieces from this printer in here it's a decent size and very useful and here we got the manufacturing label so yeah this is a pretty interesting printer it's quite large and is built very well like all eligo printers all right so I got the printer plugged in let's go ahead and hit the power button and right away we got some lights coming on coming here from the top and another one here under the nozzle we're booting up and there we go this say system is currently starting that's interesting so it looks like it is ready to go so yeah let's go ahead and click on prepare well actually before I do anything I'm going to go into the settings advanced settings and turn down the brightness on the screen a bit here so it's a little easier to record so going to prepare let's go ahead and preheat the Machine by clicking on temp down here so we have hot buttons I'm going to click pla that's going to go 205 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and as it's doing that we'll click on move and we'll go ahead and home all which is the middle button and that should move all the axes to the home position all right so the Z seems to be working the x is working and the Y is working so it's going to use that induction sensor underneath to do the Z offet and there it goes wow that's a pretty low profile here with the fan trout all right so we're already preheated on the nozzle and 3334 on the bed so it is taking a bit and I can feel it get warm but yeah this is a large bed and it's going to take a good amount of time to preheat it to 60 so on the top we have Neptune Max our Wi-Fi connection there we're not connected got the print button this is just going to read the SD card here which nothing's on cuz we don't have anything plugged in under prepared here we got move temperature and extruder controls and you can toggle through that and do what you got to do here we have settings which has a lot of stuff we can choose our language we got Wi-Fi connection this is how you're going to connect light control so we can turn on the light on the top and also the little light on the bottom here the only thing to note it is a little bit more on the Bluer side so I wish it was more warm white but still very nice we can control our fan here on and off motor off so this just makes all the steppers release filament detector is on we have factory settings button here and that's going to recover everything let's cancel that about the machine the version and everything else and here we have an update button for updates and we also have advance settings where we can control our lighting the brightness of the panel here key sound so doesn't make a sound if you click it power loss recovery is on this could be useful to turn it off when you're doing spiralize speed adaptive mode so this is going to accelerate certain movements of the printer to make it go faster here we have input shaper which is quite important to do that's going to calibrate the natural vibrations of the printer to offset we got pad calibrations for the nozzle and on the bottom here we got temperature settings which you can preset let's say if we want to change PL you can change it here and whenever you go to the hob button on the preheat it'll be that so yeah lots of good controls here and we're going to come back to the input shaping let's go back to the main menu here and then we have the level button over here and down here we have the current position of the X Y and Z and also our nozzle and bed temperatures and we can see our bed's getting pretty close to 60 now 56 so let's go ahead and click the level button and we'll go ahead and level the bed confirm so it's going to home again and here you guys can see we get a leveling menu and it looks a little complicated at first but it's actually not too bad we have two types of leveling we can do auxiliary and automatic and what we need to do first is auxiliary and that's basically manual we do have three knobs on each side and we do have stationary pins in the middle that mount to the frame and there's only two of them right in the middle kind of to the front and back we don't have anything but we do have an aluminum rail that runs from the sides that keeps this pretty flat so what you want to do in this type of bed is level from the middle out meaning the middle is your base line and everything else should adjust to the middle because this is a hard point and it's not adjustable and so what we're going to do is we're going to do auxiliary first which is the manual and then we'll go to automatic and then it it's going to do the offset go through the bed and probe it and set the offsets in the memory so I can compensate as it's moving so before we click on the auxiliary what we need to do is set our offset because if we don't set it now it's not going to really work like we needed to We Can't level off the middle to the end so we need first to set the offset right here up and down and you're going to need some kind of sheet of paper or posy note go between the nozzle and the bed here we can go in increments so let's go with 1 mm first and we'll go down so 2 mm was too much so I'm going to go to 0.1 and start going down a little bit slower and we're just going down until we start to feel friction between the nozzle and the bed all right so I feel some friction I'm going to go to 0.1 and go up just a little cuz we're too tight here I do have a pretty thin posty note so just a slight drag between the nozzle and the bed so now we can click auxiliary confirm and that's going to take us to this menu which you guys can see the corners here that we can adjust or the sides so let's go ahead and go to one so now that we know that our Center is pretty much where we want it to be with this note we can go around and adjust Each corner or I guess each side the same way so here we're a little loose but actually it was very close so it was almost perfect let's go to number two which is going to be in the middle over there which is also a little loose but pretty much perfect actually so yeah it was already very close go to three next and this is way too tight there we go that feels really good because I moved that one so much I need to go back to two and check it make sure it's still okay and it's too loose so let's tighten it up just a bit quite a bit loose actually all right there we go we got a slight drag perfect so let's go to one back up front and it's a little tight so we need to back it up a bit here and that's perfect so I'm going to go ahead and go back to two and then three to confirm and then we'll go to this side again it doesn't have to be super perfect but you know the closer you get it the less compensating it has to do so we finish this side let's go ahead and go to this side now I'll start with four and we'll do five and six same process here so here we are way too loose so we need to go up with the bed and I have to adjust the a lot actually there we go starting to get tighter also again way too loose now we're go to this corner which is six again too loose go back now to five check it four and then go back this way and we'll be done let's just go ahead and jump over there real quick and see if anything changed and sure enough it did a little bit it got a little looser well actually a lot looser okay well make sure you go back to the other end and check I had to move the knob about a quarter turn which is a lot yeah they're all too loose I guess it kind of makes sense because we are p pivoting on the center if we raise the side up that side's going to fall down naturally so all right now it's perfect let's go back to this side and make sure we didn't throw that off well we did a little bit but it was very slight amount so yeah it's very small turn but still it's off a little bit and we are good now you can go back and micro micro adjust but that's already pretty close and we are already taking a lot of time going back and forth and the reason you do want to do that is the more flat this bed is the better chance there is for the first layer to stick evenly and the Z rods don't have to compensate going around the whole bed they still will compensate but they won't be having a very drastic point from here to here where they really have to dip up and down and it has to do that throughout the whole print so keep that in mind if it starts all wobbly it's going to keep printing wobbly to cut to try to keep that level so take your time do this part as much as you need and when you're done we're going to click home and here we'll be able to check how close we are and actually it doesn't go all the way down where we can check so let's go ahead and basically click back to finish it and so it's going to ask us to confirm that we want to go to add a leveling next which we do so we're going to do that confirm so now it's going to go through the whole bed and take a bunch of measurements and if you guys can maybe kind of see there are 121 points so there's all these numbers are kind of grayed out they're going to start lighting up as it takes the measurements so yeah this is definitely going to take a while and that is all 121 of them so here it tells us that we need to do the offset for the nozzle again and it kind of explains what the correct amount is C confirm so let's see if we need to go up or down it does appear that we need to go up a little but it was only about 0. five or so or I'm sorry 0.5 so a very very small amount maybe a little more there so you just want to have some drag and yeah we're pretty much done with the level so here we can see all of our measurements and what the offsets are and you guys can see we're really close on all of them the most is .1 something which is really really good most of them are 0 something so yeah very happy about that so once you're done all you got to do is just click back and it'll save everything here it's going to ask us save and restart we're going to click confirm it's going to save the data and there we go we're ready to go so let's click on prepare make sure we're going to keep preheating here and I'm going to go pla so for the next part let's go ahead and see if we have something on this thumb drive that's an 8 gig it plugs in right here on the front we're going to click on print and sure enough we do have some files there let's see under model we do do have the usual Buddha here so I guess we'll start with that to start printing we're going to click on it but before that we need to go ahead and load some filament in so let's go to prepare and we can use the extruder here or for this here it's really simple as we have direct drive I'm going to go ahead and raise the Z here 10 mm maybe 20 here so we can see a little better so let's go ahead and use this elu gray pla the machine doesn't come with some Cutters but it's probably a good idea to have some as you can cut the filament on an angle so it's much easier to feed through so going to the top here we're going to slide it on the spool holder go through our filament detector and then down to the direct drive extruder so we got a release arm here that we're going to just push on and then push our filament through and we can actually push it down ourselves and we'll see it purging on the bottom or if you want to you can go here to the screen and click on load and it's going to purge this amount through the nozzle as you guys can see there so yeah either way works I find it easier just to do it myself we are done purging so let's just move this little blob now we can go back to print models we'll go to the little buddha here click on it a preview of what it looks like and it's going to take 40 minutes pretty quick confirm and it starts so it looks like it's actually taking some measurements on this side which is quite interesting all right so looks like we purged there was something stuck underneath trying to get it out but okay it fell off it's on T and yeah it's printing and looks like our offset is pretty much perfect what I can tell which is great fortunately this wire here is a little long and it's saggy maybe I need to shorten that up but so looking at the screen this is what we see when we're printing we got settings pause stop led the preview of the model the percentage done 39 minutes left the coordinates how long it's been since we started 1 minute the nozzle temperature the BET temperatures over here this is the ZX the speed the fan speed the printer speed speed and then the flow rate down here so I can hear some fans coming on and actually we got the back one here the large one is on also what I'm noticing right away it's much quieter than normal which is pretty cool and there's a ton of air coming right here all right so let's go ahead and click on settings so here we can control the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature here we can control the speed the flow the fan and under adjustments we can do the z-axis offset on the Fly and also we can turn on our detector on and off the Adaptive speed mode control our LEDs here also and yeah those are the main things that we can do in the settings if we go back and click on LED here we can turn on and off the main light or the little small one on the bottom so yeah pretty logical and obviously stop and pause does exactly what it says so yeah I really like the eligo layout here very easy to use considering this is a clipper software so right off the bat we are 100% on the fans well actually no 80% on the fans and I have to say it's not loud at all considering what I was was expecting as the older printers were a lot louder than this especially with this external auxiliary fan and by the way if you do click on the fan here you can control it to be faster or slower so this is going to take it to 100% And then we got normal and Silent should be around 50 or so so yeah you can tone it down here and still have good amount of air instead of turning it off here manually which we do have an on and off button it becomes very quiet but we do need that help to cool things off especially for going to do quick printing like we are kind of here very Flawless so far everything is working except for one thing that I totally forgot is we forgot to do the input shaping so after this print is done we'll actually do that and maybe we'll print it again and see if there's any difference all right and so our little buddha is done and yeah it looks pretty good let's see if it pops up off and look at that easy peasy and the BM came off really easy too so let's take a closer look um the bottom here looks pretty good it does appear that we need to go down just a little bit on the offset we're a little high but yeah looks really nice overall since we didn't slice this I'm not too sure about the settings but it looks like a0 2 maybe and it did only take 40 minutes or actually a little less 39 and overall looks quite clean a little bit of shinging here and there but not bad and even the top of the head looks pretty good so yeah not too bad here for the start I don't see too much vibrations in the print there's a little bit something going on right there but maybe we should and here we can see it took 39 minutes so you can print again if you want to print the same model we're going to click return we'll go to settings advanced settings input shaper and here it looks like we're separate X and Y so let's do the X first start detection and it's going to do its thing so it looked like we had maybe some kind of error as the Clipper screen came up I guess let's restart and I'm going to try the Y this time around see what happens since there's no end stops on the X and Y it kind of hits a pretty hard hit as a end stop just buds against the end all right this time it worked and the Y is going back and forth and it's shaking the whole table so that's good not sure exactly what happened to the X I guess we'll try it again here in a second once the Y is done and you want to leave your printer alone when it's doing this as it's calibrating it's vibrations all right so here we have a check mark saying we are good and it's done click return let's try the X again hopefully it'll work this time all right so it's actually working this time and we can kind of see the whole head's moving back and forth so I'm going to go ahead and let it finish do that and then I'm going to print another little buddha here the same kind exactly in the same file and we'll see how it turns out and if there's any difference between them all right so now we have two of these little budas and you guys can probably tell just by looking at them there that the new one is definitely better which is pretty cool so the input shaping definitely works and is doing something check it out so this is the new one here this one it looks so much cleaner so yeah there you go let's see here in the back oh yeah much cleaner back look at that there's no warping or anything weird there but on this one there's some warping there and the input shaping for the X and Y seem to work perfect so yeah don't forget to do that for this printer as it makes a huge difference now I do want to print a few more things off of the card that was in here and also we need to jump to the computer and install the slicer so we can slice our own prints and also send them to the printer by wirelessly connecting it with Wi-Fi which is in the settings lane and then you're going to choose your network enter the password and connect so I went ahead and connected mine and now we going to go to the main menu you can see we got a connection here to the Wi-Fi so yeah simple as that we can now control the printer wirelessly all right so here we are at the computer and I got the thumb drive plugged in let's go ahead and open it up so this is what we see we got a user manual folder it's a PDF that for some reason the letters are not coming out right but in any case it's a manual to put the printer together step by step so yeah we got the software which will come back in a second the models so here we have the Buddha which we have the STL and the G-Code so you do have both of the files here and we got five in total including this little tool holder that if you guys can see goes on the spool at the top of the printer if you want to print this out and hold some of your tools up there so we got a folder here with an assembly video and a couple g-codes which one of them I already threw in so let's go to the software and install elura which they have for both Windows and Mac so I have mac I'm going to install that one so for Mac all we're going to do is just drag this to the applications and it's 383 mbes let's open it up this is a 4.8.0 all right this is what we get welcome to Cura and click on get started kind of gets you to agree to a few things here and here we can see it's going to take us to add a printer so here on the top we have ADD network printer let's see if we can find our printer in here so here we have the Neptune 4 Max click next so it looks like a newer version of cura is available let's not worry about that for now but yeah we can see here the build volume and it's quite large so if you click over here on the printer name you can click manage printers and then machine settings and here we can kind of see how it's all adjusted so yeah looks like we got a 430 by 430 by 485 so it's pushed a little bit more than officially the numbers are so let's go ahead and throw a calibration Cube on this super huge bed I'm going zoom in here a bit Yeah if you click on the model you're going to see these little arrows and this is just to move it around here on the side we're going to see this toolbar here open so this is move and you can do that by millimet we also have scale or you just drag these things to scale it contrl Z to reverse that and we also got rotate so if you want to manipulate your model you can do that here so if we click here on the top we have this very general kind of layout and what we want to do is click on custom here go through it ourselves so the profile we're on right now is fine quality which is fine because it's a point 2 now they also have a fine fast fine strength so we can technically go training this but I think we'll stick with fine quality because we do care about quality somewhat so let's go through the settings really quick here and if you guys see there's not much to see here and the reason why is because it's set to to if you click on these three little dots to basic what we need is at least advance and then we also have expert and all so we're not going to go crazy here but just Advan is normally enough to see quite enough parameters where you can fine-tune things so layer height is 0 2 initial is2 everything looks good here under shell that's important so make sure you got three also on the wall count five and five for bottom and top layer should be good fill gaps everywhere you can turn that on or off but if you want a more complete solid model leave it for everywhere for infill they got 15% which is fine for most things I like to bump that up to 18 but it's up to you you can even go 20 or you can go less depending on what you're printing under material this is where we going to set our temperatures and we're going to leave that all the way it is and the reason it's so high like that is cuz it's going to print pretty quick and under speed here we can see it's 200 mm a second for the print speed the infill is 180 the wall speeds are 100 on the outer and little quicker on the inner and the rest looks good here under travel we're going to enable retraction but .5 I'm pretty sure is not enough but you can try whatever you think will work for you usually 8 or even just 1 mm seems to work best for me for these eligo printers but it's going to depend on the temperatures the kind of filament stuff like that so yeah you can experiment this but anywhere from 0.5 to 1 mm is usually where I end up so everything here looks fine except for Z hop one retraction I do not want Z hopping Some people prefer it there is a valid point to have it and it kind of here explains when I hover over it next to it what zhop is so it helps kind of like not knock the model over but I prefer not using zhop as I feel like you get better print quality so I'm going to uncheck that here we have cooling for this kind of printer with the external cooling fan I like to actually turn this down to 80% it will make it a little quieter also and there's still plenty of cooling going on with those fans so this is where you're going to generate supports if you need it for the model under build adhesion we have brim which is not what we want we just want skirt and so skirt is just going to be purging around the print I'm going to do three counts three lines around and then it's going to start printing the print straight to the bill plate now if you have a hard time sticking you might want to use brim so it actually touches the model but then it's really hard to clean it off and just you know unless it's absolutely necessary or you're printing something huge and you're worried about it use brim but for the most part for this build plate skirt is what I use and the rest here we have dual Extrusion special modes and under special modes we got spiraly mode which prints a few layers and then one layer all the way around kind of like a vase mode so yeah we'll definitely try that out and then we got experimental which we got a few more options there so yeah pretty much that's it guys I me it's pretty simple we didn't change too much we just kind of fine adjust it so it comes really good the way it is let's go ahead and slice it so here it says it's going to take 14 minutes which is not bad and then you can save it here as a file to your computer or you can save it straight to the removable which we will do here and now we can inject the card straight from here and that's a quick overview here of how to slice a print and so now all we got to do is take the thumb drive to the printer and start printing oh yeah and I almost forgot if you do want to connect your printer wirly you're going to click here on monitor on the top add printer by IP we're going to enter the IP number that's on the printer in the Wi-Fi settings all right so that doesn't seem to be working for whatever reason maybe I just need to restart everything but in any case that's how you theoretically connect and also if you open your browser like Chrome or whatever you use and type in the IP address in there you can see that you can connect to the printer directly and see quite a bit of information here and have some control so I'm not awfully too familiar with all these things but there's quite a few options here for all the people that know what they're looking at and understand the Clipper software so yeah here we can see how our bed is leveled out and so to start a print you're going to go all the way down here we got no files so I'm just going to grab some random file it's going to upload it under the jobs and now we can print it out so yeah don't put an stdl file in here like I did you do need a G-Code file so if we click on print it'll actually start the print now I did start preheating it and we can see the on the top here our main progress that it is printing and it's just basically loading up so yeah once you use the fluid and you get used to it it's really nice and everything is connected wirely on your computer to the printer you have a lot of options and information here and yeah just a great experience here with Clipper on this printer all right so these are all the prints that we printed and I have to say guys this printer is super fun to use as you do start thinking big with this large build volume so all the prints we printed was in pla you can print hotter temperatures as the nozzle can do it cuz it goes up to 300 C but the bed only goes to 85 so it could be a little more challenging onge larger prints let's say you want to do abs or something now with that said you can print hotter filaments obviously but you do have to take a little more care sticking them to the bill plate and also from past experience and all the other eligo printers they use the same hot and assembly TPU does very well here also so let's check out these smaller prints here print so we saw the two little Buddhas and how the input shaping makes a big difference here was another file which is the Nutcracker and it was printed like this in two pieces and it's actually a really cool print and it worked out good and I guess you're supposed to put your little nut there and then crack it with this bolt so I'm not sure how well that will work the accuracy was very good and the print looks great too very smooth overall little bit of layering here and there but nothing too crazy and it all looks great yeah that was fun to print another fun one here that could be useful is this tool holder and this one here actually Clips on onto the side of the spool on the top and you can put all your wrenches in here and whatnot else and this does come with the printer if you do want to print this out now what's probably a little more interesting are these two benches so one of these Benes was the 26 minute Beni that came with the printer and that's actually this one here that's less shiny and this was included with the printer and surprisingly this is a very nice looking print it did turn out a little bit more matter as it was printing extremely fast but you guys can see how accurate it is so yeah I was pretty impressed with that and it looks really good minimum stringing no weirdness at all which is impressive it is pretty light so it's optimized and then this Beni here I sliced myself which took 40 minutes or so and the biggest difference I can see between the two is the lettering in the back is a little more readable here on the longer printed Beni as the one that was printed fast is unreadable there somewhat not huge difference here between the two Benes shows very good control and just good optimization if you slice it correctly for Fast Printing here we have a little bit of a strange print that is kind of like a comb and it helps you cut hair on an angle like this so yeah if you've cut some hair or got hair cuts you probably know what this is but yeah it's basically a comb for hair cutting yeah it turned out pretty good this is just pla but it's quite flexible and nothing is breaking puts the layers down really good we do have a little bit of fine stringing but it's very fine any amount of heat like with the little heat gun will make them all disappear but other than that it's pretty much perfect and it looks great here we have something a little more useful which is a gear and this is a functional print and all these pieces print separately you hold the middle and just turns and this thing turned out perfect I didn't have to break it loose or nothing it just started spinning right off the plate which is incredible and it's extremely round feels really good so yeah very accurate great precision and shows that you can print more complicated functional prints like this without an issue even on this really large build volume here I also missed the cube which lets us see a little better all of our axis so here the X we can see there's a little bit of ghosting there some vibrations but pretty minor overall looks great and then we got the Y also looks really good A little bit of ghosting but very low considering how large large the bed is and then we got the X wall and the Y wall which the Y almost looks cleaner than the X it's quite interesting we got the bottom got the kind of crinkle finish and the top looking good so yeah very solid printer guys again considering how large the bed is so here we have a little frog I like to print these as it's pretty intricate details here on the paws and plus they do print separately so everything's stuck no issues this is a dual filament so we got black and green and yeah it looks really good under here it's perfect no serious issues whatsoever that I see tiny bit of stringing which probably need to bump up the retraction a bit but other than that guys it's pretty much perfect we also have a little octopus and this is purple and black and this thing turned out really nice we got a little support here breaks right off again a little bit of stringing here and there but it's very thin Whispers that'll disappear with some heat and yeah if we look on the head looks very smooth we do have a randomiz Z travel so the dots are kind of everywhere but yeah overall very smooth looks very nice again all these little pieces stick to the bill plate and then combined nothing broke loose and looks perfect so here we have something a little bit larger and this is a headphone stand and it printed out laying like this there were some supports in the back you can kind of see still some here it's stuck good and printed very nicely looks really clean there's some patterns in it of just the way it printed out but it looks really really good obviously going to be quite usable for me is I'm going to use this for putting my headphones on so yeah even though it's not a super large print it is quite easy to print it on this printer so here we have something a little more fun or cool I guess which is this car and it is printed out of two parts which are the wheels and the body itself there was a lot of supports on here so I had to clean it up and also I did scale this whole thing 200% so the wheels didn't end up clipping very well and kind of fall off but if we look at it a little closer you guys can see it looks really nice nice pretty smooth overall I did not use any heat or nothing so this could be really nicely cleaned up I wanted you guys to see that there is very very fine hairs here and there on the wheels the body but yeah there was quite a bit of retractions pretty much everywhere that had to pull off and everything came off pretty easily except for this area here was very hard to clean up but other than that it looks really nice and turned out really cool the bottom is also very nice and flat and looks very clean that's what was sticking to the bed which is great to see and you can kind of see all of this stuff here was supports which came off really clean the top does look a little bit rough from the layers but not bad again some heat will clean it all up nicely so you guys can see I got one of the wheels off and yeah ended up these holes were just too large and they don't clip onto this piece here which actually I guess I did forget to mention that we do got to print four of these also pretty cool print and this is actually Ken Blocks Hoon corn I think is what it's called called and looks super cool and a great piece here for his remembrance so we do have two more prints to look at and one of them you probably guys noticed is under here and we'll look at that in a second let's go ahead and look at this huge vase and I'm not sure how I'll be able to show you guys it's pretty large if you look at the bottom we can see we had something a little bit funny going on there just the filament didn't want to stick so well so this is a dual color kind of like that frog what you saw it's black and green so it kind of changes and overall it did very well it started getting more artifact as we went up as you guys can see there's more vibrations and funny looking stuff and there is a little bit of lines here and that's actually not the printer's fault that was me realizing that I installed that bracket in the back where it sticks too much and hits the brace so yeah make sure you install that correctly the whole thing to take away here is this is spiralize mode so we got a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all the way at top and the layer is really strong which is a good sign and if you wanted to print anything this large and spiralize mode you obviously can with this printer and it does a great job and also I didn't even have to turn off the power recovery mode in the settings as it had no issues printing with it on and spiralized so for the last print we're going to have to move here a few things and it's this really large chain mail and this is separate pieces guys which I basically scaled to make them larger and man that it turn out super cool everything stuck perfect and nothing popped off which is pretty incredible because the chance of something going wrong with this many pieces that have to combine is quite high and there was a problem when I first started printing this so I had to reprint it and that was because of the external fan and the reason for that because it bounced so low right behind here and it's quite low profile right above the nozzle what happens is if a little piece even sticks up a little it could catch it and break it off that's what happened to me so I had to pull this off which is really easy only four bolts and unplugs and that guaranteed me that you know if a little corn Corner was trying to pop up because of whatever reason just pla does that it's not going to tear it off and yeah I'm really impressed and the amount of retractions and movements in this print is incredible so yeah very happy with how it turned out and yeah just amazing that we can print stuff like this so yeah guys as you can see this is a very cool fun large 3D printer and if youve seen any of the other elu printers you know that they all just work and that's how this one is exactly there's no nuances there's no fiddling around you put put it together and you just start using it and it's really feature pack very well built Ultra large build volume 420x 420x 480 mm tall we got the Pei sheet which is great it is removable very large flexible print stick well and pop off extremely easy after you're done the only thing I wish is they made some kind of channels for it where it was easier to land it correctly the bed leveling works great also has 121 points that it takes and offsets and as you guys can see with larger prints it's perfect I love the light even though they are a little bit on the blue side they are quite useful the screen is really cool because something you can grab and use also extremely good UI and easy to use we do have this little storage here which is very useful and the Dual gear direct drive hot-end extruder here is excellent and works great now one thing that I feel like maybe could improve is the end stops don't have switches so it just hits the end and it feels like it's hitting a little too hard and I'm not sure if it's possible to make it where it hits less harder but that would be nice if that could be updated and also to mention the Wi-Fi connection or even hard ethernet connection that you can use the Clipper software to control it which is also a huge Plus for this thing so if you want something really large for the larger projects the Neptune 4 Max here really delivers and doesn't disappoint so if you are interested in it I'm going to have some links in the description check it out and if you did enjoy this video hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this check out my 3D printing playlist I'm sure you'll find something interesting there and also stay tuned for more 3D printing videos as we got pretty interesting stuff coming up and if you made it to the end I really do appreciate you watching and I hope to see you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 15,779

Keywords: Elegoo 3d printer, elegoo neptune 4 max, neptune 4 max, klipper 3d printer, large format 3d printer, 3d printing for beginners, howto 3d printing, large 3d printer, xxl 3d printer

Id: SLfSq7pigp4

Length: 42min 59sec (2579 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 29 2023