Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus - Overview leveling & Print

all right so let's take a closer look at the elegu Neptune 3 plus so this is a pretty large printer as you guys can see it takes quite a bit of room it pretty much takes my whole table and also very tall and so measuring it out here we got about 23 24 inches deep and about 24 inches wide and with the spool on you'd probably need 33 34. so yeah very large printer so make sure you have the room for it alright so let's start here on the top so we got the spool holder we mounted it here on these two bolts our filament detector so the spool will go on here and then the filament through the detector and then out down to the direct drive extruder hot end assembly so all the channels are very nicely finished they're smooth got the logo there nice graphics on the sides we got metal brackets on top and for the lead screws there's also bearings very nicely constructed this is our brace here that we installed so flipping around looking from the back you guys can see we have our synchronizing belt between the two leads the wiring from the detector goes right here and also under the channel we have lighting so going down our ends on the X rail here are all metal on both sides this is where our cable bracket that we installed connects very nice and organized the hot end from the back side the four wheels you can kind of see the key break there the key block which has the silicone sock and then our parts cooling fan on both sides so it has two of them that blow underneath also looks like our z-axis sensor here so this is a multi-purpose sensor for the limit on the Z and also for out of bed leveling so going down from there you can see our y-axis channels there's two of them the belt the Y and stop switch and not too much here we got the two motors for the Z on each side this is where we plugged in detector and the LED light are mount for support rot going to the back is pretty clean we've got this cable coming out to the bed and it is strain relief and not too much going on here and we've got pretty large squishy rubber feet on each corner back around to the front we can see our cable coming in here to the hot end extruder this is where you're going to put in your filament this is to release the extruder arm we got a little gear here that you can see when it's turning this whole piece here is plastic nicely molded we've got a little eligue logo the two cooling fans on both sides and probably in here somewhere we have the parts cooling fan and that's what it looks like underneath well there are a couple little bolts that we can loosen and this whole piece should come out and you guys can kind of see maybe a little better what's inside so we have the extruder motor the whole extruder mechanism there that little bolt you see right there is the tensioner for the extruder got a little board there in the back a bunch of wiring and our sensor here not too much to see and underneath here we can see this is the fan for the parts cooling which is an axial one it's quite large too and then the two parts cooling fans inside the Shroud so yeah very nice build quality and attention to detail all right so this is back and you can get to that little adjusting bolt through this hole here so yeah if we go to this side we got the end stop switch and then our motor here for the x-axis it's all enclosed and this is where it plugs in here so I wish there was a little cutout somewhere where you can see if our belt is running true on the gear and going to the other side same thing it's all enclosed this is our tensioner here for the belt again I wish there was a little cut out but yeah as long as this feels smooth it should be fine all right so going down from there we have the main attraction here which is this build plate and it's huge so it's 320 by 320 and 400 tall so you can print quite large projects on here so this is a Pei sheet which is awesome to see that it's here so these work great and it is a steel sheet that's magnetic got a little logo here and a tab to grab it and it comes off quite easy it is like a reflective material on the other side and it magnetizes through the main bit which is magnetic so really happy with this the only thing maybe I wish is that there were some kind of brackets in the back where it's easier to line it up and put it down because it's so big and it's hard to hit it just right on the bed itself so going below that we've got the two rails like we saw the belt here it adjusts here again you cannot see nothing it's all enclosed you can kind of peek here through the front and see the gear also on the back there you can see it yeah it seems to be okay overall and you can adjust the tension here on how much tightness you have so looking underneath you guys can see we have three adjustable knobs on each side which is kind of crazy and we also have three rollers on each side of the channels here so our heating platform is the aluminum and below that we don't have any insulation which I'm a little surprised to see for how large this build plate is it seems like it should have insulation yeah the frame itself I don't know if you guys can tell it's very thick so I think much thicker than usual at least what it looks like to Me overall seems like a really good design and everything is very sturdy and so on this corner here we have the manufacturing label that gives us more information about the printer which by the way weighs 14.2 kilograms and also that's the machine size there in millimeters so from there going to the front we just have a clean fascia here and then we have a USB port here to connect to the computer micro SD card slot the plug for our screen and the screen itself which sits in this magnetic cradle is very nice you can just grab it use it and put it down the screen itself is quite bulky let's go ahead and take this protector off I wish the bezels were a little smaller but it's still pretty nice and should be quite useful being portable like that so underneath you guys can see the three bolts we installed it to the side and going to the back we have our power button on and off it is fused and our power input port for the AC cord and going this way we don't have too much here except our cable coming out there and going to the top now the only thing I've noticed that I wish it would have had which is some kind of storage because there's nothing here and nothing anywhere else so I'm not sure if the way the design was made that that was not possible or what but yeah I feel like it would have been great if it would have had some kind of storage bin somewhere but yeah other than that seems like a really nice printer so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in power it on preheat the machine hold it and level the bed all right so I got the cord plugged in go ahead and hit the power button and it boots up and there it goes so it did take a few seconds there but not too bad so we're going to go over the menu in a bit let's go ahead and click on prepare all home so we can see the printer homing so we got the X the Y and the Z coming down all right so if we click on temp we have hot buttons to preheat let's click PLA and it's going to preheat the nozzle to 250 on the bed and the fans just kicked in and it's actually a little bit louder than I would like because they're pretty pronounced so I'm going to go to settings and go to Advanced and yeah I was hoping to have this adjustment for the lighting because it seems a little bright for the video so I'm going to turn it down here I'll be careful not to turn it down all the way as it completely disappears and turns black so I think this is pretty good here and we can see here right on the home page our nozzles pretty much at the temperature and the beds there too so pretty heated pretty quick and it's hot wow that was much quicker than I thought it must be because of the high wattage power supply all right so for the next part we're going to do bed leveling and this kind of helps you out here to do it right but I think the first thing we need to do is run these Springs down or these knobs on the bed so what you want to do is compress the Springs about halfway on all of them and there's three on each side and the reason you want to do this is because you want to have a good base to go off of up and down so when you're compressed about halfway you know you can go a little up or a little down and now we're going to hit the level button confirm it looks like it's homing again and so here we have another menu which gives us an offset and we're minus one right now then we got manual and measure and then below that we've got all of the parameters which I think there's 49 of them where it probes the bed so because this bed adjusts we need to go to the manual first so let's click on that so it's telling us we're going to need to adjust the distance with a piece of paper and now it gives us the areas that we can go to by clicking on the number so let's go to number one first and we're going to grab this paper here as the Gap and we're pretty low on this side so let's go ahead and go up and there we go starts to catch so let's go to two which is the one right behind it there we go now three so this one actually is too loose so we need to tighten this one up more now we'll go to four which is this corner here I guess I meant this one in the back there we go five and six and then in the middle we got home and it's telling me that it's complete but I know it's not because I need to go over it again so click on cancel and do it again and we'll go back to one sure enough I'm still loose here and then yeah we're just gonna do the same thing over again and you're going to do this as many times as you need until you get it pretty close so the closer you get it the less the auto bed leveling will have to compensate so it does have a lot of points that it measures but if you get it close it's going to be easier and better for the machine to offset very small amounts compared to large ones and if they're too large it could have some printing issues too so yeah get it as close as you can and by the way you can click the same button again to go back to that step so yeah once you're done that's when you click the middle one which is home and another reason you want to go around a few times at least three is because once you change one side other side's kind of change too so it's quite dramatic on such a large surface all right I think that's pretty good it all feels the same all around so I'm gonna go home foreign and it's a little tighter but we can set the offset and the offsets later so so we're going to confirm that we're done with that and now it's going to do the out of bed leveling which is a lot of points there as you can see and it's preheating right now all right there he goes all right so now it's taking a measurement double tapping and we can see here that we're on number three out of 49 which you can barely see that number there but yeah a lot of points that it needs to take very nice to see because the more it takes the more accurate it'll be on every piece of the bed well I guess it's only taking one probe at it not two so just goes one time then moves to the next one all right so we're about halfway in and you guys can see it's making good progress so yeah I'm glad it's only taking one point because it will take probably forever if it did a double Pro all right so we got all our offsets and here we have a note that says to pay attention to the Gap and you can do the offset in the z-axis offset so let's click on confirm and this right here where you see minus one is our offset so let's go ahead and bring our paper in and it's a little bit tight so we're going to go up a bit and you can choose the increments right there so it's on point one right now so let's go up 0.1 and now it's too loose let's choose the point zero one increment and go down slowly until we feel some drag all right that feels pretty good and yeah we only needed .02 to have the perfect offset so once you set that you're pretty much done you don't have to do anything else as it remembers all these parameters and all those numbers there are offsets on the build plate so you guys can see we're not so perfect but it is a large plate we're about 0.5 at the most off here and there which is quite a bit but you know it's something this large it's quite impossible to get it extremely perfect so this is why it's kind of important to get it as close as possible manually so yeah once you're done we're just going to go back it takes you to the main menu and actually it's going to looks like raise up also confirming that you are finished with that all right so let's take a quick look at the screen so up here we see it says Neptune 3 plus and we got four buttons to choose from prints prepare settings and level and down here we have the nozzle temperature and the bed temperature so on print it's going to read the SD card and it tells us to plug that in so once we do it'll show what's on there under prepare we got move and this is the three choices you've got so you can see how you can home everything in the middle like we did earlier or each axis we also have stepper release or you can move each axis separately by clicking this under temperature you got our nozzle and if you click on it you can type in what you want you also have our power button here to turn it off completely then our bed temperature and this is the current stats and then we got four hot buttons for preheating which is a pla abs ptg and TPU so let's click on pla again so it stays at that temperature and then we have extruder button here you can use this to load and unload the filament in and out if you want but you know since this is direct drive this is probably not going to be used as much but yeah let's go back we have settings here which we have quite a few things here to go through we've got languages and these are all that are available temperature settings so you can preset everything here light control so this printer does have a light if I turn it on probably you guys see that we're going to leave that off for now as it will mess with our filming fan control so this turns on the fan the parts cooling let me turn that off motor off releases steppers filament detector is on and you can turn it off here then we got factory setting things about the machine so let's click on a belt and we can see here the name the version the build volume and advanced settings we've got that brightness adjustment which we did earlier and I turned it down a lot for the camera you can turn off the sounds if you don't want the little peep sound but I think I would prefer that motor settings speed settings and resume printing is on so I'm glad to see that they have an option to turn this off because usually in spiralize mode you'd need this off because it won't print it right so yeah very happy to see that but yeah that's pretty much it guys for the settings and then we have the level button which we went through just a minute ago so yeah pretty intuitive and nice display and very responsive all right so we're pretty much ready to print we got the bed all leveled and adjusted so let's go ahead and put some filament in and I'm going to use my own roll here so we'll use the snippers to cut the filament on an angle so it feeds in easier so if we look here on the top we got this pool holder which the filament will sit in and then we're gonna run here through the filament detector and I don't know if you guys can see but there's a little light that comes on and then down to our extruder and so there's an arm here that we push on to release and now we can push our filament through so kind of wiggle it around to go in and then we can manually just push down and Purge it now you can't do it here on the screen but it's much easier to do that it's such a short distance here to push it down and it's quite convenient and you guys can see we're nice and pursed I'm going to grab that out of the way and we'll get our micro SD card out of the USB adapter and it is an 8 gig and it plugs in right here upside down so now we can click on print it looks like we have one file in there called Buddha so let's click on that and it's going to ask us to print this model we're going to confirm and there we go it started and this is the printing screen that we get and there's even a little preview there so it is preheating to 60 which is almost there and there it goes so I'm going to click on settings here and click adjust just in case we need to do the offset all right and it looks good except for we got a little booger there if I can cut it off real quick there we go but yeah it was perfect and no adjustment needed so yeah if you do it right there should be no issue at all and it's printing away pretty quick so let's go ahead and take a closer look here our printing screen so we've got the file name there with the preview we got settings pause stop and then the LED light under the preview picture we got the progress bar and the percentage it's one percent right now the time since we started just two minutes and our z-axis position it's at point two right now the nozzle temperature and the target the bed temperature and the target the print speed and the fan which is completely off right now and that's for the parts cooling so naturally if you click on pause or stop that's what it'll do and the LED light turns on the light as you guys see that's pretty bright it's a little bit on the cooler side but still very nice so let's go to settings so while you're printing these are the things that you can do so you can adjust the nozzle temperature and these are the increments you can also load and unload filament so down here we can see the three choices we're in the filament so if you wanted to change your filament you can do that and also adjust your hot end and bed temperatures we got speed you know you can speed up the whole process or slow it down and then adjust is going to be our offset and you guys see our minus 0.98 is there you can also turn on our filament detector and our LED light from here and what's cool is we also have resume printing option right here in the menu so yeah if you're going to do spiralized you want to turn that off so yeah that's pretty much it guys and if we go back that's the main menu here see overall I really like the setup it's quite convenient in all the main and basic things you need are here all right so far everything was looking really good and we definitely do have silent steppers as it is pretty quiet the only time I can kind of hear is when it's moving fast but let me go ahead and bring my mic in so you guys can hear it so yeah overall not too bad the fans are a little bit intrusive but nothing too crazy so yeah I would say it's moderately quiet all right so our first print is going very well and we're gonna let it print out and we'll see how it turns out all right so our first print is done and it took one hour and nine minutes pretty quick so we got a choice of return or print again and click return and that goes back to the main menu so the bed is completely cooled off let's see how easy it comes off stuck on there pretty well but it does pop off and we still got the brim on there but yeah it comes off really easy and that's what's great about this Pei is it's pretty effortless as when it Heats it sticks so good and then when it cools off it's quite easy to pop it off and this is what our first print looks like so it looks like a little buddha here the bottom looks great that's the texture of the build plate so overall it's very smooth as you guys can see and very precise so since we didn't slice this I'm not sure about the parameters it does look like a 0.2 layer height and it printed all in an hour so pretty quickly and yeah it looks very good on our first print here that came with the machine

Channel: Just Print

Views: 12,731

Keywords: 3D Printer, 3D Printing, Just Print, Just Vlad, neptune 3, elegoo neptune 3, best 3d printer, elegoo neptune 3 pro, neptunte 3 pro, beginner 3d printer, beginner 3d printing, beginner 3d printer 2022, elegoo fdm printer, elegoo fdm 3d printer, elegoo neptune 3 pro build, elegoo neptune, elegoo neptune 3 plus, neptune 3 plu, neptune 3 plus, neptune 3 plus assembly, step by step

Id: lPKFT-grybw

Length: 18min 46sec (1126 seconds)

Published: Fri Jan 20 2023