Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - Overview & Leveling

all right so let's take a closer look at the Neptune 3 Pro so starting here on top we have our spool holder where the spool will go and then feed through the filament detector and then out of there down to the direct drive extruder so I like how the filament detector has brass inserts it won't wear out nice detail there so the top portion here with this logo is a plastic injected part but we do have metal brackets here for the lead screws with bearings in them and also the belt there and that does sandwich all together here to the aluminum frame which has these pretty interesting design elements on it that says create the future looks pretty good and quite unique so flipping around to the back you guys can see where we mounted our spool holder there the synchronized belt between the two leads our wires here that come out once for the filament detector there and the other wiring is actually for some LED lights there underneath which could be quite helpful as they can glow down onto the workspace so all the frame pieces are metal all around that's nice to see got the brass bushings there same thing here on both sides this is where we put in our little wire clip holder we got the x-axis motor and it plugs there underneath and our x-axis and stop switch on this side and going down from there you guys can see our coupler the z-axis motors same thing on both sides but if we look over here we can see there's a little cap there with wires coming out the bottom when we plug them in here and that's the filament detector and the light which traveled through here all the way up and come out right there so looking at the back of the hot end you guys saw we have four rollers two stationary and then two adjustable underneath and we can kind of see some of the components here we have the heat break over there the heat block it does have a silicone sock on it and then our little tip there where the filament comes out we do have a dual cooling fan on each side that blows underneath we'll look at the front side here in a second but yeah going down we can see the y-axis channel it's actually a pretty nice clean Channel and it's also really wide which gives the bed more stability and this is our y-axis and stop switch the y-axis motor and the belt here that travels through the channel so at the back of the bed we have strain relief for the wiring that runs into the back of the printer and there's a few more wires coming out here what's interesting is we have another plug here that's kind of covered up and it says DC output 24 volts two and a half amps which is interesting I wonder if there's some kind of accessory to this printer that uses that and if we go to this side we can see here this is where our power port is and it is fused with an on and off switch here on the side I like how they use this clip here to run the cable that goes all the way to the hot end so going back over here right underneath the y-axis and stop switch we have the selector for the voltage and this is quite important that you set this to the correct voltage so depending on where you live you're going to have 115 or 230. so in the US we have 115 but a lot of the Europe uses 230. so I'm going to grab the flat screwdriver and switch that to 115. so yeah make sure you check that before you power the printer on all right so going back to the front let's take a closer look at the direct drive hot end extruder here so it is quite deep or wide I guess where we want to look at it but it does poke out quite a bit so there is a brass insert there for the feed which is nice all of this is plastic including this cover we have the two fans on each side for the parts cooling there's a nice little elegu logo and some venting here up front and this is kind of what it looks like so I went ahead and took out two little bolts there on each side and this thing should just come right off which it does and we can see the two axial fans and then we have another large fan here underneath and that's for the heat break which is all in there somewhere and on top of that we got the reg Drive motor for the extruder with the gear here so yeah and there's also a junction board on the back and another thing that's quite interesting is we have a sensor here and that appears to be Leveling Sensor or the z-axis switch and it looks to be like a capacitive Optical style not an actual mechanical probe so that'll be interesting to see how well that works if you guys can see that little bolt right there that hole this is where you adjust the tension on how much pressure there is on the extruder gear and if we slide this back on you guys can see that still accessible through the cover so yeah so here on the x-axis we have the belt adjuster on this side and on this other side we have the end stop switch so again everything's covered up it does look like there's a couple bolts that you can take off get this cover off if you want to see how the gear lines up with the belt and actually looks like here too there's a couple bolts that might pop this off so but I wish that maybe they they made a cutout where we can see you know if it does line up or not but in any case it does look nice and clean and so going down from there we have our bed which is a 225 by 225 by 280 tall is the build volume which is quite respectable for this medium format and I love this Pei sheet these things are great they last forever and they're easy to use and it is a steel sheet that Flex is easy so it's very effortless to print on it and pop the prints off and you guys can see the magnetic sheet underneath let's go ahead and put that back on so we got the Pei the magnetic and then we got the aluminum heated bed which by the way is not insulated which is not a big deal for this size we got the frame there nice and thick the two rollers here you guys can see the adjustable eccentric nuts and the two stationary on the other side and then over here on the very front we got the adjustment for the Hawaii belt again we can't see the pulley or anything from any direction so I wish they would have made a little cut out here so we can see if we're running true or not and another thing I'm noticing is that this printer does not have any kind of storage anywhere so it would have been nice if they would have made some kind of storage even a small one but this one doesn't have it which technically not a big deal but it would have been nice to have one so on the top here we have the manufacturing label we can see the name the printer the build volume and the Machine size the power it takes 300 watts and we got the weight of the printer at eight kilograms so going below here you guys can see we have the USB port to connect from the printer to the computer then we have our micro SD card slot there that's how we can bring in our files and then over here we have the plug for the cord on the screen which sits really nicely and again it comes off it's magnetic and we do have a sticker or a protective layer here that we need to pull off that also reminds us to check our voltage so overall pretty nice screen a little heavy on the bezels and the size but pretty nice overall and sits really cleanly here to the side so not much going past here we do have these nice large rubber squishy feet on four corners and clean on this side and everything tucked away really nicely and the wire management here looks really good so yeah overall looks like a pretty solid printer so for the next part let's go ahead and plug it in turn it on home the printer make sure all the motors and switches work also we'll preheat it and level the bed all right so I went ahead and plugged it in let's go ahead and hit that power button and it does power up really quick it says booting with the elugu logo if you guys can see him hopefully all right there it goes so it took a little bit there to start I don't know if it's a little bright or not maybe if I hold it to the side but the screen is blue as you guys can see it's a pretty nice font a good resolution easy to read so we can see on the top there it says Neptune 3 Pro and we have print prepare settings and level and on the bottom there we have the hotend temperature and the bed temperature so let's click on prepare and it does beep when you click on it and down here we can see we're on move we got temperature and extruder so under move there's a all button here right in the middle home so I'm going to go ahead and click that and it should home and we can see the X and the Y is working perfectly and now the Z all right also stops just at the right spot so that's good to see so let's go ahead and click on temp and here it looks like you can preheat it manually or click on one of these hot buttons which we have pla b s p g and TPU so I'm going to go ahead and click on pla sure enough it's going to go to 200 on the nozzle and 50 on the bed so let's do a little hotter click on abs and that's going to be 240 and 80 a little too hot maybe ptg 220 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed and I do hear some fans that kicked on in the hot end maybe you guys can see there it's preheating pretty quick so it looks like everything is working which is a great sign and the last button here we have extruder which lets us control to load and unload so because this is a direct drive it's quite easy just to do it yourself here right on the top but for the next part what we need to do let's go back here to the main menu and we need to level the bed and I don't know if you guys noticed or not but we don't have any kind of knobs underneath the bed so the bed is kind of pre-leveled and we don't have to mess with that at all all we got to do is the automatic bed leveling and that's this level button here so let's go ahead and click it and so it's saying something about resetting to zero action so we're just going to confirm and let's see what it does all right so it appears that it was already out of level from before and it has all of its coordinates there if you want to redo this part you can or you can just leave it the way it is I do believe this button here will probably redo all of the measuring so let's go ahead and try that and then it says calibrate the bed we're going to say confirm so now it's going to do a calibration by measuring the whole bed across so it does appear that they pre-calibrated from the factory but you know if yours does not it's not very hard to just recalibrate it or if you need to recalibrate it and as it's doing that you guys can see it's highlighting the numbers that it's done already so we got six across and six deep so that's quite a few points that it takes foreign and that is all of the points now on the screen it's asking us to make sure that the nozzle is not too high or too low and we can adjust that in the z-axis offset so we're just going to click on confirm there and now we go back to that same mini we saw from the beginning and we can see all of our offsets and they did look like they changed quite a bit actually or at least what I'm noticing so it might be good to rerun your calibration anyways what we're going to do now is we're going to adjust the offset it's at minus 0.4 right now and we've got up and down here where we can adjust that so you're going to need some kind of piece of paper or I'm going to use the sticky note and what we're going to do is go between nozzle and the bed we're way too loose right now so it's too high off so we're gonna bring it down and you can choose the increments there so as you get closer you can go to point zero one yeah I'm just going to continue to go down until we get close which we are close now so I'm going to switch to the point zero one and go down slower from there and yeah because my posting note here is quite thin I think I'm good right there so I'm going to leave a decent Gap but yeah you just want a slight slight drag if you have a thicker paper obviously you want more drag but you have something thing like this sticky note I have you want very slight drag but yeah all we're doing here is setting the nozzle gap between the bed and so mine ended up being minus 1.22 and once you set that you're pretty much done with the bed leveling so we can just go back and that's going to save it into the printer and you guys can see it's moving actually which is great because for the next part we can go ahead and put our filament in and I'm just going to use this roll that I have and we're going to grab our snippers and cut it on an angle so it's much easier to feed it in and looking at the top here put the spool on the spool holder and then run our filament through the detector and there's a little blue light there that glows up then down into the extruder and so this knob here releases the arm where we can feed it in and so we can just manually push it right down through there until we can see it Purge out the bottom you can use in the prepare the extruder button here and have a certain amount at a certain speed Purge but it's much easier just to push it through yourself and a lot quicker but yeah we are pretty much done with leveling and putting our filament through let's go ahead and see if we have anything on this SD card which by the way is an 8 gig and it plugs in right here upside down so we're going to click on print and sure enough we do have a file there but before we do that let's go back and we already went through the uh prepare menu you guys saw everything there our settings menu we have some adjustments we can do we got language temperature settings light control so we do have that led light that glows from the top so let's go ahead and turn it on and see okay so it is on it's quite a bit brighter and you guys can probably see right here it's glowing very nicely for this video I'm probably not going to be using it as it is a little too bright and it'll cast a shadow right underneath the nozzle which is not going to help us and the light is a little bit on the blue side which I prefer more warmer light but you do have this option if you want to use it so I'm going to turn it off for now so we also have fan control motor off so this is releases the stepper Motors filament detection so since we have it we should probably turn that on we got factory settings about the machine and advanced settings so the brightness of the LCD screen actually that's pretty cool we can turn that okay all right guys so I totally blacked myself out by accident now I have no idea what I'm clicking so I'm going to try to restart this and see if it'll come back it's crazy that they even give you the option to completely darken it out where you can't see anything I hope that's not a problem okay thank goodness it powers back up so it's just for the time of that use case so once you power it off it resets it okay so it does take about five to ten seconds to load there not too long but yeah let's go back to the settings Advanced so you can't turn this down which is nice but be careful not to turn it down all the way so we got the key sounds so if you don't want it to beep motor settings so this is more advanced stuff here power loss recovery it's cool that they have an option for that because sometimes printers in spiralize mode need that off happy to see that they have that option so yeah quite a few adjustments here and options to have in the settings so let's go ahead and start that print that was included and it's asking us to confirm and there it goes so it started so once it starts we'll check out this menu here and what it has to offer and look at that we actually get a preview of what we're printing so I guess it's a little buddha thing so hopefully our offsets and everything is still good and we can probably adjust that as it prints if we click on settings and adjust here on the this tab here we can do the offset right on the fly so I'm going to go ahead and leave that option open just in case we need to go up or down and there it goes so kick me out of that setting there so far it looks good we do have a little blob stuck to the uh okay so it broke loose all right well it's perfect actually it doesn't need to go up or down looks like at least do what I can see it's bugging along looks like it's making a brim around the print which helps it stick better so let's go ahead and check out the menu here while it's printing so this is what we see as the main menu as we start a print and on the top it says Printing and it has the file name the picture of the file the percentage bar complete there one percent we got settings pause stop and LED light so you can turn it on and off here right on the Fly very nice so this is the time that passed we got three minutes the z-axis position 0.2 we got the nozzle temperature and the target same thing for the bed there the speed also the fan which just turned on to full power so if we click on settings you guys can see we got three main tabs on the bottom so we're on filaments and here we can adjust the nozzle temperature and the heat bed by choosing what you want the temperatures here we can also load and unload we've got speed settings so we've got print float and fan the print speed is 100. flow rate's 100 and fan at 255 which is the full speed and then we have the Z offset which we saw here we can adjust that up and down we also have the LED light control Power recovery mode and filament detector here also so yeah all of your controls are here even while you're printing very cool so yeah I really like the layout the screen looks really nice so yeah overall I'm really happy you have how things are going with no hiccups just printing straight out of the box I'm going to bring my microphone in so you guys can hear what the printer sounds like all the fans are on so it's actually on the quiet side considering that and you can hear the motors a little bit when they're moving extra quick but overall they're pretty much silent so yeah I would say this is definitely a quieter printer than normal all right so yeah we're bringing along and everything looks good so I guess we'll let this print print out and we'll see what it turns out like all right so our first print is done and it took one hour and nine minutes so you can click return or print again click return it goes back to the main menu so the bed is pretty much cooled off let's see how easy this print pops off of course it does have a brim on it which well it still came off pretty easy on the actual print but the brim well it peeled off too look at that so yeah the Pei sheet obviously works well and this is one of the best materials you can have for 3D printing but yeah with the brim pulled off the print I can tell you guys right away that I am very impressed with it the layers are sitting extremely even and just look at those reflections very impressive so this little print here was sliced very well and the printer did an excellent job printing it out

Channel: Just Print

Views: 25,526

Keywords: 3D Printer, 3D Printing, Just Print, Just Vlad, neptune 3, elegoo neptune 3, best 3d printer, elegoo neptune 3 pro, neptunte 3 pro, beginner 3d printer, beginner 3d printing, beginner 3d printer 2022, elegoo fdm printer, elegoo fdm 3d printer, elegoo neptune 3 pro build, elegoo neptune 3 pro leveling, 3d printers for beginners

Id: d8-oObziSHI

Length: 17min 53sec (1073 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 24 2022