DONNA'S FREE PEAKS AND PLACEMATS PARTY!

hi i'm donna jordan from jordan fabrics today i'm going to show you how to make some placemats i took some of my scraps and i sewed them together and i've got a nice pattern going here of course these colors aren't what i'm gonna use but this is the pattern i'm gonna use and i did some numbers here and i figured this out so we can make four placemats from 20 jelly roll strips now hoffmann fabrics they have a product called a bali poppy it's basically half a jelly roll so it has 20 strips in it so that's perfect for our placemats and we just got in a nice big shipment from them and somewhere in these boxes there's several colors of bali poppies so let's open them up find a good color alright here's some it's very pretty but I need something more colorful this one that will be perfect now this is exactly the number of strips we need to make the floor placemats we could get another pack if we want to make a matching table runner but for now we're just gonna make this and we need to get a backing fabric now this group of strips it has so many different colors in it that I'm looking at our batik while thinking I could use almost anything to match this so if I want to make them look a little bit more blue now this is just on the back side it's not gonna show from the top but that would make a nice backing maybe I want to make them very very gold this is just a dotted almost solid that would be nice and bright I could even get something with flowers on it like that I think I like that it has kind of a tropical feel to it that will be perfect now let's go ahead and open this up and get the strips top now this project is going to use all twenty strips so there's basically going to be no waste at all now let's see these are nice and flat you may need to iron your strips it just depends when you open it up if they feel nice and flat and these do so I'm gonna take four strips at a time and I'm gonna put them on my cutting board because that'll give me eight layers here and I am comfortable cutting eight layers now you don't ever want to cut more layers than you are comfortable cutting because they won't be accurate but with these thin boutiques eight will work for me so I'm gonna get them all lined up onto the cutting board and I can cut them all at the same time now they're all lined up and they're all straight on my cutting board so I'm going to use my plastic ruler here and I'm going to add my and wait I've got a five-pound hand weight and that helps hold my ruler down and I'm going to subside everything into five inch pieces so now we are going to have four sections here one two three four four more stacks of cut pieces so all of these that's gonna make one placement there's a placement there's a place in that there's a placemat there's a placemat so this is all the leftover pieces this is all the scraps we have now when we make the blocks we're gonna get a few triangles also but what I like to do with these is mix them in with some batting and use them when I make pin cushions or small cushions now I'm gonna lay the pieces out in four rows with ten in each row now since the Jelly Roll is made of a folded strip of fabric they're in pairs and that's good because that's what I want now my second row it's also going to be in pairs but I've moved it down one position so that these pairs are not lined up with the pairs that are in the first row now this last pair I'm just gonna put one on each end now I'm gonna start the third row and I'm gonna again gonna start with a pair and keep going down so there's the third row now for the fourth row again I'm going to start one down and then with my very last pair I'm gonna put one on each end now that I've got it in a rough layout here I may trade some of the colors around so that I get it nice and balanced now I've got it all laid out but before I do anything else I'm gonna take a picture of it because it's fairly easy once you start sewing to get some of these switched around and in the wrong order and if I take a picture I can always refer back and make sure I've got everything in its proper placement I've turned all of my bottom row here so that the reverse side is showing now sometimes it's hard to tell on a batik what's the right and what's the wrong side if you can't tell it really doesn't matter so let's take the first piece here and we're gonna want to make a mark from this corner two and a half inches down so I'm gonna measure down two and a half inches here and put a little dot and then I'm going to move my ruler and I'm gonna draw a line and I'm just using a pencil if you have dark fabrics you may want to use a chalk pencil and I'm just going to draw a light line from the dot to the corner now the next piece we're gonna do the same thing but we're going to draw in the opposite direction so we're gonna keep going opposite all the way down the row here okay so the first row is marked here and we're ready to start sewing so we are going to take this piece spin it here and you can pin it if you like you can use a little glue in here if you like and let's take it to the sewing machine even though my pieces are pinned together I usually double check that everything is exactly lined up those raw edges exactly lined up before I stitch now I'm in a stitch on the pencil line or slightly towards the corner there now when we open this up it should make one long strip and so I will sew a couple and make sure they look nice and straight it's kind of a knack to it but if you go right along that pencil or just inside there they will line up perfectly now we're going to use the same procedure on these two pieces but the lines going the opposite direction so we're going to spin this way and again stitch right down the line now this one is going to go right there now these seam allowances or these extra parts they're facing down so on this one you want all the extra stuff facing up so continue making these pairs and alternate each time which way the seam allowance is going to lay there's the whole first row it's all done but before we move on we're going to want to take these over to the ironing board and just give it a quick pressing and then trim off that extra part back here so you leave just a quarter inch seam allowance I've gone ahead and used the same procedure that I used on these fabrics to make the top part of the placemat here now we are ready to sew each of these into a row so I'm gonna pick these up in order and I'm gonna take them to the machine so I've got them almost overlapping completely but I can see what order I started in so this one's gonna be over on the left and we're going to end with this on the right now since we ironed our seam allowances in opposite directions when we put these together these two which are going to go right next to themselves here one of the seam allowances is going to be facing down and the back one is facing up so these will meet right here but there won't be any extra lumpiness and we can make it really flat and it's very easy to match the intersection so I'm going to line up these top two corners now I'm gonna take these corners down here make them match and then I can feel with my fingers here if these seams are lined up you can just feel if it's nice and flat they're not overlapping there's no gap and they're exactly the same length now we are going to finger press this seam allowance to the right see how those meet very nicely there now we're going to take the third piece off of the stack here and again those seam allowances are going in opposite directions making it very easy to stitch them together the first row is all stitched together and all ironed nice and flat and I went ahead and did the second row and since the first row had seam allowances going to the right I pressed these seam allowances to the left now all we have to do is stitch these two rows together and the seam allowances are going in opposite directions making it really easy to stitch so the top is all done now let's go ahead and get the placemat finished to finish the placemat we're going to use a method I call the flip method this works really well on small items and it does not involve binding it so I'm using a piece of scrap a batting this is the same batting I use in my quilts it's 80% cotton 20% polyester that goes down first then we're going to put our backing and the backing is right side up so I've got the reverse of it down the right side up and then I'm going to take my placemat and put it right side down so I've got right sides together and we're going to put a couple of pins around the edges here now I'm going to stitch this front to back 1/4 inch in from that raw edge there and I'm going to start right beyond this Patrick I'm going to back tack and I'm going to pivot when I get to the corner and I'm going to go almost all the way around but we're going to leave an opening this is the last corner here so I'm going to pivot and then I'm going to stitch right beyond this here and I'm gonna back tack and so this will leave us a nice opening that we can turn it right-side out with but before I do that when I go to flip this this seam might come apart so I'm gonna do what's called stay stitching I'm just going to stitch really close to the edge about an eighth of an inch away from the edge and that it will keep that seam from coming apart when I flip it now we want to trim off the excess backing and batting so you can either use your scissors and just cut it like that or if you've got your blade handy you can trim it like this [Applause] and once you get all the sides trimmed off you're also going to want to take off a little bit of this bulk in the corner so you can get a nice pointy corner so close to the stitching but don't trim through your stitching now we're ready to flip it right side out so just put your hand between the top and the back all the way to the far end and just go ahead and pull it right side out then put one hand back in and poke out your corners now I'm usually fairly successful with my fingernails but you can also use a chopstick or there's some pointy tools you can use a knitting needle something to get your corner nice and square now we're going to want to flatten it out now I find this easiest I press a little from the front now flip it over and just hand press with you know your palms have some heat in them and you can press and make it nice and flat all along these edges here and it helps if you do it from the back try to get that seam so it's right in the middle they're not riding up on the back or on the front right in the middle now we're ready to cool tip the first thing we're gonna want to do is seal up this opening here and I find it easier to do it from the backside so I'm going to turn this in at about a quarter-inch I'm just gonna finger press it a little bit and then I'm gonna put some pins all along here and I'm gonna turn the back in a quarter-inch and I'm just gonna stick some pins all the way through here pin that opening closed now I'm going to stitch this closed on the machine about an eighth of an inch away from the edge and I'm going to go all the way around the placemat like that so right now it's closing up the opening but I'm going to keep stitching all the way and the placement will have a nice knife edge and this is the only lot easier to stitch from the back side so I always stitch this first edge stitching from the back now the opening is closed and it's edge stitched now we're gonna flip it over and do a little quilting from the top side I'm going to quill to my placemat in the ditch and I'm only going to go all the way down the middle and then I'm gonna go right along the peaks and valleys here and there's a really strong ditch here so all my seam allowances are facing that way so this is pretty easy to quilt here so I am gonna back tack at the beginning and then my needle is in the ditch and it's really to the left of this seam here it's pretty easy now quilting along these lines that's going to be even easier because we are on the bias it's always easier to quilt on the bias so I'm not even going to pin it I'm just going to start sewing because nothing's really gonna move and you can feel this is the lower part this is the higher part because of the seam allowance is going that way so my needle is right to the left of it and you get there you're gonna want to put your needle in and pivot and go down here I've got all four placemats done and I'm calling these peaks and valleys because the shape of the pattern it's going up and down on both ends so all four of the tops were made with the 20 jelly roll pieces and for the backing I used one yard one yard did the back of all four it's a really fun project and it wasn't very hard and they came out nice and flat that the method that I used just makes them come out nice and flat which is what I like on my table we hope you enjoyed our tutorial today on how to make the Patrick placemats now we're gonna have another giveaway this is a log cabin quilt this is made with a fabric collection from cotton and steel and it's called home body it has deep blues and rusts now the quilting pattern has got some retro looking flowers on it here it's real easy to enter the giveaway all you have to do is click the link right below the video it says giveaway and put in your name and your email address and you might be the lucky winner now if you don't want to miss any of our upcoming tutorials be sure to subscribe to our YouTube channel happy quilting

Channel: Jordan Fabrics

Views: 182,915

Rating: 4.9304004 out of 5

Keywords: Quilt, quilting, quilts, fabric, fabrics, pre cuts, table runner, table runners, sew, sewing, Jordan Fabrics, Jordan's, jordan, floating point, Floating Point, Donna Jordan, Matt Jordan, Patterns, 4k, tutorial, let's make, vlog, quilt shop, quilt store, free, place, mat, placemat, placemats, mats, peak, peaks, valley, valleys, pattern, how to, make, poppy, poppi, bali, jelly, roll, fat, quarter, charm, square, squares, quarters, easy, fast, shop, store, unbox, open, stitch, flip, method

Id: cfZuB95XwjA

Length: 17min 14sec (1034 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 03 2019