D16 Vitara build-Install in detail with my break in procedure

what's going on everybody welcome to Texas Honda channel if you're new here definitely consider subscribing so previously on the channel we put a junkyard y7 in here this is the original head that came factory on the card stock y7 head but we put a junkyard y7 block in so I could pull the original matching VIN plate y7 out of here put forged pistons and rods in it so basically before we can do that I want to get everything pulled out of here and then we can go inside and we can put the forged rods Pistons and assemble the Vitara engine and I'll show you how to do that in detailed instructions but as for pulling this out I'm just going to basically have it on the tripod and speed up the process and then we'll go over the details on the Vitara boat so enjoy the video [Music] [Music] ok so I got the stock y7 block out so now we'll go inside and get started on the forged internal set out alright so this is basically what it'll look like once the rod and piston is together these are Mac speeding rods they're from eBay I think they were like 250 bucks I'll have everything that I bought in the description below but these pistons are Vitara why cpz the standard size they're Teflon coated which makes them a little bit quieter when they're operating they actually ride up and down the cylinder walls a little quieter so less of that piston slap noise so a few things you're gonna want to take a note of is where it has markings that side will be facing back that'll be facing the intake manifold so you'll want the arrow for these ycp pistons facing towards the transmission now typically they'd the arrow would go towards the timing belt but in this case no they go towards the transmission that's where the bigger relief cuts are for the intake valves smaller ones for the exhaust so basically this is what it'll look like with the rod bearing installed with everything together the only thing not on it is the piston rings which we have right here now these work really well I prefer Hastings but these came with it so I'm gonna use them a Mac speeding rod actually came with torque specs which it says for this specific one we're gonna be doing 45 foot pounds with the ARP lube the moly lube basically I already like I said I already did all those ones and we got the ycp piston here but they package them up really nicely and that's a very good thing you don't want any contaminants in here if you get some contaminants it can basically ruin your entire engine so you'll want to wear gloves not necessary but it helps and make sure that there's no hair dog hair or dirt around cause you don't want to ruin anything on this build that you've put money into so seeing the spot right there with all the numbers that'll be facing towards the back so sit like this and the arrow facing towards transmission if you're pretending you're looking at the engine the transmission would be on your left-hand side so we're basically going to put some assembly Lube you just use mode normal motor oil would work perfectly fine for this so we're just gonna lube up the wrist pin and now it's in O to put these C clips on it's really simple you just slide it in its a groove that's in there now if you don't have a actual c-clip tool you can just use needle nose pliers as long as they actually fit into the holes you basically just squeeze it once you get it squeezed it'll basically be locked in like that now you can go ahead and do this before you put the wrist pin in but it really doesn't matter some people have different preferences but basically gonna do that to the other side as well and that's it now that's all together now if you look at those numbers pretend they're on the back side of the engine arrows facing towards transmission everything's good so the next step is to get the rod bearings in which you'll take these 11 millimeter multi-point arp 2000 series bolts out I'm just using Harbor Freight cordless impact it works really good [Music] alright this part usually sketches me out but I like to stick something softer in here like this and then we're gonna use a rubber mallet and basically just do it like that as you can see there's no damage so that's the best way to do it for me removing those so now we can go ahead and put these in which you've got the rod bearing here and you've got a little notch there there's a notch on the bearing basically just goes in like that and then you'll both the same thing to the other end put that notch into its place and bam I don't like to push these all the way back in that way you don't have to fight to get them back out I'll just use the bolts to hold it all in place yeah that's basically how you assemble the rod and piston together without a press these don't require a press all right so now we're going to be doing piston ring gap which this is very crucial depending on how much power you want to make what I like to go with on my first ring which is the ring that goes right here on the very top the compression ring so to speak that ring right here I've already got it pressed in the cylinder but I'll show you how to do that real quick you'll basically just take this ring with the little notch well this one has an in on it that in faces upward and you will put it in the cylinder then we'll go to about this second level here using it like this now that we've got it in there we will take a fuel gauge we're gonna start with zero point two one or zero point five three millimeters we're gonna test that and that one fits with us to be at about point zero two three so we will have to take this out I'm taking this piece out and carefully over here on my makeshift grinder bench grinder thing I'm gonna use one side of this and only do one side not both and take off very little material and then we'll put it back in and measure it and see where it's at [Music] all right now we're gonna try to get it right where I want it put it back in now it fits in there perfectly it has a little bit of a snag on it which is how you want it so I'm basically gonna do that same method for the first ring on all four cylinders the reason that you want the gap a little bit bigger is so that whenever you get into boost the heat will expand things and it'll kind of force it together more and you want more that clearance so the Rings don't bind up and so you don't bring brake ring lands so I'm gonna go ahead and do that to the other ones and we're gonna do that for the second ring as well but I'll be using a 0.22 on this one so the top ring will be a little bit bigger of a gap and then the second ring will be a little bit smaller but I'm basically gonna do that and then we'll go from there so apparently I don't need to do the second ring it is perfectly at a point zero to two or zero point five five millimeter it's perfectly in there so the second ring is good so I don't have to do that on that one but I'm gonna check all the other ones as well all right so all four are good basically now we just got to put them on the piston I don't ever do the oil ring on the very bottom because the heat by the time it gets to the bottom of that oil ring it doesn't expand it to the point where these like these ones would like where they would break so the lower oil rings the skirt rings I keep those completely how they are however I pull them out but yeah we'll go ahead and put these on and I'll show you how to do that to the Pistons all right so I'm going to start with the top ring basically just get it started in that top notch there making sure the in in this case it has an in there making sure that is facing up and then that's pretty much it to get the top ring end now the second ring I'm gonna basically do the same thing get it sort of started in its groove and work its way around now typically they're on no typically on the second ring here there's like a little skirt or a step these ones don't have it for some reason but that usually faces down so that way it can actually scrape the oil because it's an oil scraper all right as for the lower rings they're really really thin and they don't have a specific orientation so we're just basically going to put them on there just like we did the other rings it's pretty simple it's not very hard but before we get the second one on we're gonna take this little gold oil scraper ring and we're going to put it on there right now one of the most crucial steps before actually installing this is making sure that all of these do not line up because if you see right here if I had it installed like this the oil would shoot right past it and land right on top of the piston and I'd leak compression so we want to stagger those off like a cross so I have the top one to that that direction the second one that direction and then the oil rings are the exact same way one on this side one on that side so now it's technically ready to install in that cylinder alright now that we got it to this point all the Rings are facing the direct orientation they're made like a cross so none of the gaps are lined up basically just gonna use some wd-40 and spray it around inside there we're gonna take the piston make sure that the stamp markings face towards the back side of the engine so now I'm gonna spray the skirt and the entire side of the piston don't worry that will burn off this is just to get it down in there without scratching up the cylinders now that we've got it tightened down we will lower it into the cylinder what I like to do now is take a hammer and tap this down where it's nice and flush tighten it up if I can anymore and now we'll just lightly tap it into the cylinder while keeping pressure down and there we go we got the first cylinder done the arrows need to face towards the transmission so it's opposite of this factory rebuild these arrows typically face towards the timing belt but since the Vitara Pistons the intake valves are backwards so the arrows will be facing that way so we're just gonna go ahead and do that to the other ones and then we'll flip it over okay so I don't know if you can see the little green piece on the bearings that right there is plastic edge which you can get from O'Reilly's we're just checking with the standard size bearings installed we're going to torque everything down and we're not gonna put assembly Lube or oil or anything on these we're just going to get the specs that way we can make sure everything's within spec but basically you carefully put the crankshaft down on there torque the rod bolts to 45 foot-pounds on these particular ones and the crank main journals will go to 38 foot-pounds and then we'll unworking off and see exactly where they sit okay so the piece of plastic gauge that was set here and as you kind of seen the crankshaft turned it's not supposed to turn you're supposed to keep it a hundred percent still or the readings will be off so the readings are off a little bit but on the ones that I did measure they measured within spec you basically just use this piece right here and for example on this one you can kind of see right there you take the piece of paper gauge it and that'll tell you what the numbers are now these numbers are off a little bit because of it moving but it's all within spec on everywhere that I could read so we should be good to go if not we're just gonna send a rod through the block just kidding by the way we're not doing that so we're gonna put this ultra slick Permatex assembly Lube on all of these bearings and then just to top it off we're gonna give it a little bit of best line on each one and that'll keep it lubricated really well with a friction modifier so it'll help a lot there's a lot of zinc content so that'll help a lot on break-in so I'm basically just gonna wipe all these little pieces here off and get them off the bearing and then we'll assemble it again now make sure that you put these rod bearing caps in the correct spots so if you don't then it'll know because they're machined for each rod all right right here it says that we need to torque it down to 45 foot pounds so that's what we're gonna do okay so I did want to mention this because I don't know if I did these are different sizes your Center ones are going to be longer so there's only two long ones they go in the center so you'll want to make sure that your the two Center ones are long which they are everything is good we can go ahead and torque them all right so now that we've got that done I'm gonna flip this over real quick Oh ray some wd-40 and the cylinder walls well it seems really smooth and don't hear any knocking noises like clunks or anything like that well everything is looking good so now we can put on the oil pump and the rear main seal now these will basically just be gasket sealed all the way around with black gasket maker and then we can go from there I like to pour oil directly into this this will help eliminate a dry start [Music] alright now it's time to install the eight pound flywheel and the stage for racing clutch now I see that hole right there we're gonna line it up with this tiny hole here we already put the pilot bearing through the back so yeah basically just gonna line it up put the bolts in and tighten it all down did you have the eight pound flywheel over the 16 pound flywheel is for every 1 pound of rotating mass that you knock off and weight is 2.5 useable horsepower now what that means is it's not giving you horsepower it's just letting you use more of the power you have and allowing you to put that down in torque learn this many many years ago I don't remember the source but I'm sure you can find it out there on the internet somewhere so now we set this up there like that now we'll put the pressure plate over the top up here snug go to the clutch alignment tool and you see how easily that goes in and out that'll make it stab to the transmission perfectly so long as it sliding in and out like that without effort you're good to tighten it all the way down and that's it now this thing is ready to go in alright so the video quit so I'm just gonna go off my security cameras and show you me putting it in right well that's basically what you missed the GoPro quit working it's really cold outside so my phone wasn't working my GoPro wasn't working nothing's working but my security camera so so I figured I'd improvise and just give you this content so we'll get back outside all right so now I'm just using a brand new multi-layer steel fel-pro gasket nine nine one five PT it's a part number I have used this on all my builds I'm sure there's better out there but this is what I have so that's what I'm gonna use now I've got cylinder number one top dead center along with on the cylinder head I've got that at top dead center so when I put it all on everything should go smoothly all right so these head bolts are a little bit too long for some reason they said D 16 Y on the box so clearly they're not and I can't just return them because I didn't get them from eBay or anywhere I got them for trade work so I'm basically out a hundred bucks and now I got to spend a hundred more so that's cool so I got to take those out put stock head bolts back in until I can save up to get more a RP I'm kind of tapped out after all this build and spending all the money on everything I did so I was kind of hoping that these were gonna work cuz they're brand new in the box so now I don't even know what they go to so I'm gonna have to take those out [Music] all right so we've got coolant in it we've got oil in it everything's put together nothing's leaking so far haven't started it up yet we're about to fire it up for the first time I did put some Valvoline manual transmission fluid synchromesh capable this stuff's really good it actually crossed references to Honda manual transmission fluid so it's nine dollars bottle at O'Reilly's but anyways everything's together so I'm gonna prime the fuel pump twice I'm gonna try to get the RPMs up hoping it starts right up but you never know with the compression being so low you know rings not broken I'm gonna rev it up to about 2,000 rpm maybe thirty seconds or less and then I'm gonna get out if it can idle on its own and I'm gonna make sure there's no leaks I'm gonna put some heat in it get it to where it's warmed up and then we're going to shut it off and let it cool down and then we'll go over the rest of the break-in process [Music] [Music] all right everything looks good everything sounds good now I'm just gonna let it sit for a minute kind of warm-up to get everything kind of hot and expanded and then when breaking it in I like to not take it over like 4500 rpm but I want to gradually get up there and a lots of down shifting down shifting is where the engine really starts to break in at least this is the method that I've always used other people may tell you differently but this is just the method that works for me doing a lot of downs chips reverse compressions I don't know if that makes sense but you got compression constantly going down but you don't have a lot of compression going from the crankcase up well when you downshift a lot of that pressure goes up instead of down it's kind of hard to describe but we got lots of hills around here so I can do a lot of downhill coasting down shifting and just gradually bringing the RPMs up taking it kind of easy at first this is just conventional motor oil 5w30 nothing crazy don't want to run full synthetic or anything like that on brake in as soon as it warms up some more we'll go ahead shut it off let it cool back down and then we'll take it out and seat those piston rings because this is very crucial if you do not seek those piston rings then they'll never seat and you'll always have smoke but it's not smoking right now which is really impressive because it's really cold out right now so it's a good sign all right so we're gonna go take it out and break it in [Music] and that's basically it just over and over again constantly repeating it and slowly getting the RPMs higher up each time all right everything's feeling pretty good so I'm just gonna go ahead and give it a little bit of boost not very much though [Music] there's only four pounds so it shouldn't be too bad I just wanted to see how it responded and it feels way more responsive than the other engine did so I'm really happy with it so far [Music] everything looks really good [Music] all right sounds good it looks good so everything looks to be how it should well everything sounds good what I do recommend when you break it in is to change your oil at about 200 miles to 500 anywhere in that range get yourself a good oil filter we have an STP on here which is a pretty decent oil filter but I prefer wicks over all others it seems to filter the best and micro guards pretty good too but I definitely make sure you have a good oil filter because you're gonna want to catch any of those metal shavings that come out of the fresh build and you don't want to recirculate that throughout the engine also after your second oil change you should be good to run full synthetic I just don't do it on break in because full synthetic puts a barrier between the metal and you'll never fully seat the Rings and then your Carl's smoke forever and it kind of sucks because I've done it before trust me yeah but yeah so far it seems to be way more responsive just barely giving it gas and it just wants to go and this isn't tuned for it this is on the other tune so this thing needs redialed in but I could only imagine if everything was fully seated but it did feel good I think the down shifts helped as soon as you downshift a certain amount you can feel the power change so you can actually feel your compression get a little bit higher it's kind of cool because it'll be laggy at first when you very first start the build and you keep going out and doing down shifts and slowly raising the RPM and stuff like that then you'll notice more power and more compression so it's pretty cool just I try not to step in it or stay on it and try to stay out of boost as much as possible while in the break-in because you don't want to break it in wrong a lot of other people will say break it in how you're gonna drive it and it makes sense but I've just always taken it a little more on the safer side and it's worked great for me so I hope you guys enjoyed this video took a lot of work and effort to do this and edit it and get all these videos out so if you could just go ahead and press the like button and drop a comment below and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already stay tuned for more because we will have more once we turn the boost up and get the air P head studs and yeah it should be pretty fun so definitely stay tuned I'll see you guys in the next video till then god bless stay safe stay awesome

Channel: Texas Honda Channel

Views: 33,687

Rating: 4.9587631 out of 5

Keywords: texas honda channel, that honda, texas, texas honda, “vtec”, “spray, can”, Honda, Civic”, “f23”, “f22”, “d, series”, “d16”, “sohc”, turbo civic, turbo d15, GT30, d16y, D16y8, D16y7, D16y7 build, D16y7 vitara, D16y8 vitara, D16y8 vitara build, How to break in a d16, d16y7 break in, d16y8 break in, D16y7 turbo, d16y8 turbo, d16 vitara build, sickspeed, d16y turbo, engine break in, vitara build y7, d16y7 turbo build

Id: bnN8ku2u3Ss

Length: 29min 27sec (1767 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 02 2020