Complete R32 Engine Rebuild for Boost ~ VR6 Turbo

you know what today seems like a perfect day to put together a vr6 engine as we move forward on our turbo r32 project we need to finish getting our engine put back together now i've already built the bottom end of it which you can check the video out that we did on that so my plan for today is to get essentially the long block assembled which is cylinder head engine timed and as many accessories as it makes sense to put on right now the first thing i'm going to do is i'm going to clean off our engine block surface where our head gasket's going to go we want to make sure this surface is clean and dry i also went ahead and re-lubricated all the cylinders with a little bit of clean engine oil now this step may be a little bit of overkill but i like to take some acetone and just wipe down our mating surface make sure that we don't have any leftover yuck you also want to make sure if there is any dirt or debris or anything down in the cylinders go ahead and get it out now there's probably not going to be a better opportunity to get this stuff cleaned other than right now next up we have to get our head gasket put on now for this application we actually have two head gaskets we have one that's going to go right here on the block then we're going to put our head gasket spacer on then we have a head gasket that goes on top of that i've also done the method of drilling out the rivets and stacking the head gasket like that that way it works pretty good too but for the hpa setup they do give you two head gaskets we also have these extended alignment dowels that we need to install so we're just going to go ahead and do that first these are going to help us get not only our head gasket and spacer lined up make sure that when we set the cylinder head down it's oriented properly okay now that our alignment dowels are installed we can do our first head gasket now important note on a head gasket even though most of the time it's incredibly hard if not impossible to put these on backwards or upside down it can happen so be super careful when you're putting on your head gasket on a vr6 like this it's almost impossible to get it on there but i'm sure some folks have found a way to do it wrong so with our block surface clean we'll go ahead and lay our gasket down just like that now throughout the rest of the process we're going to need to take extra care of this section right here because we don't want to bend this part of the gasket down our timing covers are going to go here and we don't want to cause a leak in this area before we put our head gasket spacer on we got to do a couple of things if you'll notice on the head gasket right where the block would meet the timing cover there's a hole in the front and at the back we actually have to fill those holes in with silicone and we're going to need to do that for each layer of our head gasket head spacer setup once you have your head gasket spacer clean it is time to set it into place just like that we'll go ahead and wipe down even though i already cleaned our top surface we'll go ahead and wipe it down again go ahead and take our silicone again right in these spots right here where our gasket is going to overhang with our head gasket spacer on and our sealant on and our head gasket spacers of course already clean we can put on our second head gasket two for the price of two there we go wow look at that it's huge all right now you'll notice our dowels stick up just past where our head gasket and spacer are it's going to help us get our cylinder head lined up properly next up we're going to get our cylinder head and lay it down into place you want to be very careful not to scratch up the gasket we are going to properly torque our cylinder head to our engine block i'm going back with the factory head bolts i know a lot of you are like but charles you should be using the arp or high performance bolts or studs your cylinder head is going to explode right off the engine um well i hope that doesn't happen however in talking with hpa a lot of what they recommend on vr6s in particular is using the factory stuff so you know what this is either going to be right or it's going to be wrong i hope we never find out and the engine's just fine but if the head blows off the engine you guys can tell me i told you so now this engine has two different length head bolts the bolts in the middle are longer than the ones on the outside and we've already went through and cleaned out and thread chased the threads in the block so we can just drop these bolts right in now our first run is just going to be snugging the bolts up i have my little drill here turned all the way down so we shouldn't really do anything but get them a little bit more than hand tight for our first run of torquing our head bolts we are going to be torquing them to 30 newton meters or roughly 22 pound feet we're going to make sure we follow our proper sequence which is starting in the middle and working our way out next we're going to do that same order at 50 newton meters or roughly 37 pound feet of torque next up we need to tighten all of the bolts 90 degrees now i went ahead and marked a mark at 12 o'clock on all of our bolts as i'm looking at them so what we'll do is we'll just do a quarter of a turn so that all the little paint marks face three o'clock we'll come back one more time do another quarter turn and go to they all face six o'clock or pointing back towards me luckily with torque to yield bolts that are say 90 or 180 degrees it's super easy to just mark them and eyeball them if you have a weird degree you need to turn it to it's probably best to use a torque angle gauge now a lot of you guys are probably wondering charles why are you going with a head gasket spacer instead of doing low compression pistons why are you going with factory hardware instead of upgrading everything those are all incredibly good questions and after some very long in-depth conversations with hpa i learned a lot about the vr6 engine specifically and what happens when you start modifying it see unlike a lot of other engines even in the vw world the vr6 engine itself is incredibly well built so in many cases if we did pistons that lowered compression we'd actually be weakening the piston so instead of weakening the piston and risking that damage we can install a head gasket spacer and achieve the compression drop while maintaining those really high quality factory parts hpa's probably built more turbo vr6s than just about anybody and they've done a lot of r d showing that unless you're building insane horsepower 7 800 plus the factory hardware minus the connecting rod bolts actually holds up incredibly well now on this particular build i've learned a lot about the aftermarket and how it works and what i've found if you have 10 companies that all do something similar or in this case say turbocharged vr6s they're all going to have a different way of doing many of the things and you know what they might actually all be right their way might work perfectly each and every time it seems like you could do everything perfect and have a failure or you could slap it together in full send and have nothing ever go wrong so what i'm really trying to do here is just put the best parts on that we can reasonably afford and do the best job installing that i possibly can it's one of those things where i actually hope we never find out whether this was right or wrong because that means we didn't have any failure okay we got our cylinder head on now before we can do anything on uh the backside timing we have to put on our front timing cover mostly because that is where our timing mark is for the crankshaft now we could actually do this without but i like to always use the front cover and the back side of the crankshaft to confirm timing now you'll also notice that when i put this on there's this big old gap right here that's because there is a seal that needs to go there what we're going to do is we're going to put this cover on first then i'm gonna put the seal on also if you are running the arp studs like i was going to you need to trim out just a little bit of the cover you can see i just took a dremel and ground it down a little bit otherwise that stud or the nut for the stud is going to hit this cover and the cover won't go on square so if you're running that you need to trim off a little bit with a dremel now before we put this on we got to put our sealant on it so that it doesn't leak so we're just going to put a small bead of our sealant around the outer edge and remember this is not a case where more is always better there is a point where just too much of this stuff is not ideal once we have our bead of sealant we are going to take our cover piece get it aligned on the dowels slide it into place and i actually have some new hardware we're going to install i'm going to be doing these snugging these down even and going across the center of it make sure that we get a good even snuggadoo on it it's also important to make sure you install this within about five minutes of putting that sealant on there otherwise the sealant starts to harden and it may not seal properly now when it comes to the seal for the crankshaft on this side there's actually two different styles of seal the earlier revisions were a seal that looked very similar to this but on the inside of it there was a spring that went around it those work really well for ceiling but then they moved to this style of seal which is a ptfe seal these install two different ways so you need to make sure you're paying attention to which style seal that you have odds are if you get it from the dealer at this point you're gonna get one of these ptfe seals the one with the spring normally what i would do is i would oil up the crankshaft and i would take it and i would just slide it right on and it would go right in no problem and it would be all kinds of happy the ptfe ones like this you need to install them dry so there's a couple of things we want to make sure we're doing one of course we want to make sure this is clean this is dry both on the crankshaft and on the cover make sure it's clean and dry on the cover before you put the cover on because it can be much easier to get it that way also we want to try and work this inner part of the seal open a little bit you can see the ceiling flange of the seal kind of angles in and if we install it on the crankshaft it's going to try and push this lip out instead of sealing on the crankshaft so we need to kind of open the seal up a little bit a couple of ways you can do that one if you take your finger and just kind of do this it'll sort of slightly stretch that seal out we don't need much there are also special tools that you're actually supposed to use little cones similar to this that when you put on the end of a crankshaft or a camshaft it'll help the seal slide in i don't have the one for the crankshaft this is actually one that came in a seal for a cam for like a bpy or something like that but we can still use it a bit to stretch out our seal also if you have a clean socket of the appropriate size you can use that and stretch the seal that way we also want to make sure that we don't catch it on the edge right here that's probably my biggest concern so take your time get that seal a little warm open up the ptfe part of the seal once you get it started then it becomes quite a bit easier to install grab a socket that fits over whatever the component that it is so in this case our crankshaft knows and just gently tap it in try and make sure you're getting it in evenly so that you don't tweak the seal and there we go now we got our front crank all set up we can go ahead and put our pulley on i'm not gonna torque this down or anything like that because we're gonna one have to replace the bolt and two i think i'm gonna put one of those fluid damper things on it now this will make turning our crankshaft quite a bit easier and we can double check our timing marks next up we need to get our timing chains installed now i've done two super in-depth timing chain videos so i'm gonna be pretty brief on this installation first up we're going to install our intermediate shaft this is also the shaft that drives our oil pump next a new lower timing chain guide then our intermediate gears these are not a must replace but if you have high miles and you're doing timing chains it's definitely worth an evaluation for this one i'm doing two new gears then we're gonna make sure our crankshaft is set to tdc we'll go ahead and put the chain on and then install the new lower timing chain tensioner next up we're going to install our lash adjusters and rocker arms for our camshafts not only am i lubricating them before reinstalling them but i'm putting them back in exactly where they came from now we can lube the lower bearing of the camshaft and make sure that the rockers are lubricated as well there is also something else we need to pay extra close attention to this is the side of the camshaft where our variator goes there are three rings on the end of the camshaft these are oil control rings you need to make sure that the gap in them the gap like you can see it right there they're set 120 degrees apart just like we did with our piston rings these are for oil flow we want to make sure we don't just have them straight lined up once we got that done we'll go ahead and clean our camshafts and set them into place now we can lubricate and set our cam caps into place and then get the nuts started i also like to set the camshaft in place as close to tdc as possible this means we just have less work when we're going to set our upper timing chain also worth noting on this one with a head spacer when we installed that head spacer we actually turned this into a non-interference engine so we really don't have to worry about rotating something around and valves hitting pistons all right let's get our intake cam torqued down now we need to make sure we're following the repair manual on this and the way that we tighten these down is we tighten down cap five and nine to five newton meters plus an eighth of a turn or 45 degrees so we're going to just kind of walk this down evenly as evenly as we can you want to also make sure that your rockers are all properly placed because if they're not properly placed now you're probably not going to get it to happen with the camshaft in i'm just snugging these down a little bit at a time really the first two are the ones that this is the most important okay so we will tighten these to five newton meters which is not very tight plus an eighth of a turn or 45 degrees a little trickier than 90 but still not too bad to eyeball 45 45 45 45. we're going to do that same thing for caps 1 and 13 which are the end ones then we do number seven and i really can't stress this enough guys if you're doing stuff like this you really need to make sure you have the repair manual so you can double check all these torque specs whether it's this engine or something else follow the repair manual on this stuff this is stuff you want to make sure you get right and then we do the same thing for number three and number 11 which should go pretty smooth our camshafts basically tighten down at this point once you have your cams all torqued down properly we're gonna get our timing plate and we're gonna set these babies to tdc which should just be a little bump of an adjustment like that next we can move to doing our upper timing chain first we're going to be installing our cam adjuster bridge a very critical step here make sure you lubricate that bridge otherwise you run the risk of breaking those oil control rings or even damaging the camshaft i'm also going to be installing new hardware for this bridge next we'll do our outer intermediate gear then our tensioner timing chain guide and then our front timing chain guide after that we can install our intake cam gear remember if you're looking for a step-by-step how-to on all this stuff be sure to check out those other two videos both with and without head gasket spacers this is not a hard engine to time but there's a couple of little things that you really want to make sure you know and you pay attention to then we can put our timing chain on after that we can put our exhaust cam gear on and i'm only installing these cam variator or cam gear bolts hand tight make sure when you do that though all of the slack in the chain is on the timing chain tensioner side if you have the slack anywhere else on that circuit other than where the timing chain tensioner is on the back side of the engine you are not going to get your engine timed right after that i like to take a zip tie and zip tie around the two timing chain guides this is going to simulate having a timing chain tensioner installed and keep our chain where it's supposed to be then we're going to rotate the engine around two full revolutions of the crankshaft this will be one complete engine cycle then we're gonna recheck our crank timing we'll recheck our cam timing and we'll check our cam shaft timing by making sure that the plate fits when we're done next we're gonna move to our timing covers now for our lower timing cover we have to put our rear main seal on which is this guy it's pretty much exactly the same kind of seal as our front crank seal but it's obviously quite a bit bigger and we have the little retainer if you have something that will go all the way around this kind of like we did from the front i like to put this on after the cover's on but i don't have something that big so we are going to get it installed with the cover off this is nice too because like this is a nice flat piece so it's actually pretty easy to do i'll take a block of wood or something that's about as wide as the seal i will set it on there with a towel and i'll just gently tap it down as evenly as possible there we go nice and flush with our cover once you have your seal in go ahead and flip your cover over we're going to put a thin bead of sealant around each side of our lower cover you don't need a lot here you want to make sure you don't do across the bottom here there's no need to nothing goes right here and then the very bottom piece don't do that either we'll do that when we do our oil pan [Music] before we deal with our lower timing cover we want to make sure that the mating surface where we're going to mount it is nice and clean including our head gasket make sure there's no oil or yuck inside of there now there's kind of two schools of thought when it comes to sealant on the head gasket one there's already like a little bead of sealant on the head gasket so you don't need to two you should put sealant on it because that'll help seal it better i've seen both ways work i've seen both ways leak now where you for sure want to make sure you put sealant is up in the corners here of your the bottom and the top of the head gasket now this next part can be kind of tricky because we have sealant all over our cover so we're going to do just like we did with that front crank seal kind of run our finger around the seal the seal gets installed dry as well and here we go on our head gasket a little all right we're kind of lined up at the top we're kind of lined up at the bottom pull our tool out just gently make sure our seal is not rolled once you make sure your seal is not like tweaked or anything like that you can grab a mallet and just tap it gently the rest of the way home you shouldn't really have far to go though i'm using plain bolts down at the bottom and i'm using our nice cool zealous manufacturing beauty washers up at the top you want to take care not to like try and pull the cover in all the way with these bolts now what's cool is i have new bolts for almost all of the bottom of the lower cover except one so i'm gonna have to reuse one which i'm not super thrilled with but i was one short so that's what's gonna happen but the one i'm reusing though let's get some thread locker on it that way it is also micro encapsulated just like the other replacement ones that's a fancy word for having thread locker on it next up we are going to get our upper cover installed now before you just go slapping this upper cover on there's a couple things you got to pay extra close attention to we have an o-ring that goes right here on the back side of the cover this is for oil pressure to our tensioner we also have an o-ring that basically goes where our coolant flange bolts onto on the other side so you got to make sure you have that as well actually i'm put back a day because i didn't have that seal also the easy ones are going to be these two up on the front here for our cam adjuster solenoids these guys should pop right in pretty easily and we'll make sure we lubricate these seals before we put our cover on that'll help our cover go on a bit easier you also want to make sure that all of your mating surfaces that we're about to put some sealant on are nice and clean next up we are going to get our two new seals in this one is for coolant that guy just drops right in there and then we have a little o-ring for oil that guy drops in right there next up we need to get our sealant so i'm going to do the back first then i'm going to do the bottom then we're going to drop our cover right on before you get that cover on you want to make sure all your surfaces back here are clean including the head gasket take a little bit of dielectric grease lubricate our adjuster solenoids so those seals slide on nice and easy i'm also going to have to cut my zip tie we can get our cover and hopefully slip it right on you want to make sure this cover is seated all the way get all of our new hardware started sometimes getting these bottom bolts lined up can be a little tricky [Music] the end of that chapter and we'll probably clean these fingerprints off of here too next up we have to get our tensioner taken care of now if you're not doing a big turbo setup or a turbo setup that's using this style of line to feed oil to the turbocharger probably can skip this step and just run the tensioner in however because this little spacer goes like this into our tensioner and supplies oil to our turbocharger we need to take this shaft out and put this extended one in okay so here is where this job kind of went sideways on me when i ordered the timing kit it came with a timing chain tensioner that was not a factory part generally this isn't a huge deal however in this case it ended up being a huge deal what i didn't realize was the tensioner that i got was actually a different design than the factory tensioner and unfortunately that means the extended plunger wouldn't fit but i didn't realize that at first so i ended up fighting it and fighting it and fighting it and fighting it it turns out that the extended plunger was actually half a millimeter bigger than the plunger in this timing chain tensioner actually ended up having to cut that tensioner apart and then threw it in the trash so i ended up buying a new oem timing chain tensioner this one actually came apart super simple but wasn't quite so happy going back together there's a clip that lives at the bottom of this plunger and it keeps it from popping out especially while it's like in transport or out of the engine once it's in the engine this plunger can't come out and if it does you got way bigger problems so that is a very little concern well the recess of the extended plunger where the clip would ride is actually half a millimeter bigger than the factory one and i think what was happening is this wouldn't allow the clip to compress enough to fit into the tensioner body so i spent way more time than i ever planned on with this timing chain tensioner odds are i'm gonna end up just deleting that clip altogether like i said once it's installed in the engine it can't come apart but as of right this second i haven't done anything i needed a minute to walk away otherwise i would probably end up having to buy a third tensioner all right now it is time to install one of so far anyway my favorite parts of this car the purple powder coated accessory bracket you're looking at this thing you're like man charles that thing looks so awesome and i agree with you and then there's a handful of you that uh have been burned by what i'm about to talk about and you're like dude don't forget to make sure that you clean the powder coat off of the mounting points this accessory bracket acts as a ground for the alternator which means if we don't clean the powder coat off of all the mounting points and and where the alternator mounts to which is up here at the top we will have no ground for our alternator so our alternator sits like this we have to also clean the powder off of that mounting surface as well which kind of stinks because it would be awesome if we didn't have to like crack the powder but uh we need to because we need to have a proper ground i also am thinking i may end up having to crack the powder right here this is actually a little sleeve that slides back and forth for our power steering pump see if we can use this little whiz wheel here this is going to need to be all the way down to bare metal on all the mounting points here is kind of what our cover is going to look like and the sad part is once this engine's together you'll see like the top corner right here and that's pretty much it i gotta say that looks pretty awesome now you may remember way back we actually had a brand new alternator in the r32 when i bought it but unfortunately it's seized so i'm not going to be putting this one in but just for mockup's sake that is roughly what it's going to look like actually i don't even know if this is the right alternator this is the one that came out of it it looks kind of bad but it actually did work the only problem is this one clutch uh the sprag clutch here is bad so we'll have to take this apart clean it up and then at least replace the clutch on that pulley there which is not a big deal next up we're going to install our thermostat housing and our water transfer tube that we all lovingly call the crack pipe we actually need to assemble our thermostat housing a little bit first which means dropping our thermostat in lubricating and dropping our seal on like that this is a thermostat housing from eurowise a thermostat housing that i have used many different times on many different vr sixes put our thermostat cover on and we're using the same decorative hardware that we've been using but because our housing is purple i'm going to use the black beauty washers and of course like i probably said 100 times i'll link all this stuff up for you guys if you want to check out exactly what i'm using here now one thing i'm not going to do is i'm not going to put our coolant temperature sensor and our plug in just yet i'm going to get new ones because these are not something you really want to reuse and they're cheap enough that it makes it worth just getting new ones what we do need to do though is we do need to install our seal here we'll also go ahead and lubricate this opening here this is where our crack pipe slides into we got to start with putting our water pipe in i'm going to lubricate this up when we had the block all out and apart and everything i cleaned up this port as well as i could it's kind of rusted in there but i think it should still be fine to seal our water pipe we'll lubricate our seal up nice and good probably among the worst place to have a coolant leak once you get the car back together then what we can do is put our thermostat housing on this has three bolts that hold it on two pretty long ones and then one little shorty at the back and we also need to get our crack pipe in there pretty much the thing that holds this crack pipe or water pipe in is just these bolts here for the thermostat housing push it the rest of the way into the block and hold it in place we're also using the little black beauty washers so that it's not a mismatched purple on purple even though the purple of the powder coated stuff and the beauty washers i'm using like the timing cover are really close they don't match enough that uh that i really want to use purple on purple push it all the way up to the timing cover by hand and then snug it down and we can still rotate our water pipe when we're ready to put our lines and stuff on sticking with the cooling system let's go ahead and get our water pump installed this water pump on this engine is driven by the serpentine belt and i did go ahead and get a new water pump this pump actually only goes on one way which is kind of awesome now the bolts that hold this water pump in i actually don't love they're triple squares and they're pretty shallow with how far in the triple square socket or whatever you're using goes but they also have to be conical like this in order to fit into the water pump so i'm pretty sure when i took this apart i had to pound the socket in in order to get it to seat fully so that the bolts came out while we're here let's go ahead and put our pulley on i actually did a little bit of light rehab on this pulley uh cleaned it up a bit and painted it just with black epoxy paint so that it looks fresh and i also have beauty washers for this one next up we are going to put on our oil filter housing this has two seals at the back side of it that we're gonna replace and is held in with three bolts i'm actually going to get a different oil cooler than the one we had on i did some research and it seems that the torag v6 oil cooler bolts right up to this housing and it's a little bit bigger so we're going to try that first before we try the next step which would be an external oil cooler hopefully we can get away with just one that's a little bit bigger and you're probably wondering charles why are you putting this old ugly not powder coated or pretty new piece back on your engine and that my friends is a great question because by no means on this project are we pinching pennies however we are kind of pinching dollars so it's like 165 dollars for a new one of these it would also cost me to have it media blasted and then powder coated and this is a part that the only thing you'll ever see once this is back together is like this much with the oil filter in it plus we have to get a new oil filter cap the piece that actually screws into the bottom here because that one that was on there was all messed up so this is a part believe me i would love to replace it or whatever i just don't think it's worth the time and the money next we'll go ahead and put our power steering pump in just like with the oil filter housing i'm installing the old pump without a ton of rehab there's two main reasons you're really not going to see this pump because it's going to be buried up underneath also there was some seepage around the seal at the back of the pump now i could jump in and rebuild it right away however i kind of want to see where it's at once we get the car back up and running if this is a part that i gotta rebuild or replace after the cars together it's really not that big of a deal we'll have plenty of room to access it and much like the water pump i did some light rehab on the power steering pulley i also have some fancy pants hardware that we're gonna use for this one now for the exhaust i actually got all new exhaust studs that way we didn't have to worry about any sadness from our old high mile salt belt car i'm going to be installing these using the two nut method which is we install two nuts on the stud we tighten them together and then we use the outside nut to tighten the stud and lock it into place so we tighten these guys together we can actually probably run this in by hand a bit and then we can just go ahead and snug it down then we loosen the nuts and do it again uh 13 more times don't worry i won't bore you with having to watch all of these all right with all of our studs in let's do something that i am super excited about and test fit this exhaust manifold now i'm not going to leave it on we're just going to test fit it i think i might actually end up getting this hot jet coated i've never had anything hot jet coated and you guys asked me about it somewhat somewhat frequently so i figured this is a good opportunity to get that done well that's pretty anticlimactic so let's do something even better and see what our engine looks like with our valve cover on oh man that looks so good so i'm also not going to fully mount the valve cover up for two reasons one we still need to get all the oil stuff in the pump and the pan i need to modify the pan in order to have our oil return line go into it after that we'll prime the oil system to fully bring oil up to the top end of the engine and i like to see that happen so i'm not going to put the valve cover on this is the spot we're going to gain access to that so we'll take all this stuff back off i think we're going to go ahead and test fit our turbocharger this may not be the exact setup that we use but i did have four studs that are the right thread pitch for this turbo setup also this kit doesn't use a gasket here it's probably okay but man that makes me really uneasy so i'm probably going to go ahead and get a gasket for this just like we did on the mark 3. here we go moment of truth ugh for this bad boy oh man i'm so excited let's get a nut on here go on go on oh man the fitment i'll show you guys in a second the fitment to from turbocharger to block is so tight oh man it sits so low in the engine bay why am i talking let me show you all right here we go look at this bad boy holy smokes now keep in mind we have no transmission or anything on this thing look at that bad boy holy cow that looks so good oh my god check this out down the turbo hole look at how tight that fitment is right there it's so tight but man oh it looks so good let's just take a quick tour of the whole engine so this is going to be the side that the transmission bolts up to we'll put the clutch on in another video top side man look at that valve cover oh so it looks like there's a ton of purple on this engine right now but you're not going to see the majority of it our manifold is going to cover most of the valve cover you'll only see like the top little bit of this you'll hardly see anything over on this side but it looks so good on the stand and the best part that's spoolie boy right there just begging begging for boost i'm also looking at this and it is going to be a super tight fit in this engine compartment holy smokes okay clearly i appreciate you guys sticking around and seeing this full mostly completed engine setup and i am so excited about this i mean this is amazing so this is a borg warner efr 8474 turbo if you are interested uh this is the hpa kit that we uh we got a couple months ago so i've been waiting for this moment to see this for several months and for those of you guys have been sticking around this whole time through this whole project i hope you're as excited as i am or even if you're like 10 as excited as i am that's that's enough for me so this is awesome i'm going to pull this stuff back off and put it away because we're not we're not ready for that kind of stuff we still got to get like transmission and all that bolted up before we worry about the uh the turbocharger but boy just to see it on here and see the engine and see the valve cover on it's so awesome and i'm so excited all right well that's enough talking we got more work to do we got a clutch on we got to get our transmission put on we got our coolant stuff that we got to get put on i got a still a bunch more parts on order that we're waiting for we still need paint on the car i feel like it's going to be 100 years before we're done but this step here for me anyway is super huge super motivating i hope you guys are excited i am just i'm flying high right now because this is so so awesome with that i'm out have an awesome day and i'll talk to you guys again next time bye bye

Channel: HumbleMechanic

Views: 707,619

Keywords: r32, humblemechanic, humble mechanic, the humble mechanic, vw mechanic, r32 golf, vr6, vr6t, mk4 r32, vr6 engine, vr6 explained, mk4 golf, mk5 R32, best VW golf, 4 motion, how to buy a used car, used car buying guide, mk4 problems, mk4 r32 issues, build an engine, how to build engines, is it hard to build engines, r32 engien, r32 turbo, vr6 engine guide, turbo R32 engine, turbo VR6

Id: OWsa1ItELyM

Length: 37min 47sec (2267 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 29 2021