How to Build a Subaru EJ Engine that won't BLOW UP!

[Music] today we're going to talk about building a subaru ej engine ej engines are a little bit tricky because probably if you're in the subarus you know about their pension to blow up so we're going to try to make an engine that doesn't do that that can take a lot of power reliably and run really good this engine should work really good for the track or the street and we're going to take an innovative approach now usually everybody builds the sti ej257 2.5 liter engine but the other day we're driving a regular 2-liter wrx and and we noticed how smooth it was and how eager it was to rev so we were thinking wow if you could build something with decent torque like a ej257 but with the free revving of the 2-liter that might be pretty cool so we're kind of building this uh stroker ej205 and we want to have some of the torque of the 2.5 liter but we want to keep the high revving smoothness and liveliness of the 2-liter so let's see how we're doing it [Music] to build a high power engine it has to breathe so anytime you build an engine a lot of the power generating capability centers around this cylinder head and this subaru engine was no exception so what we did is we got the um two 205 heads and we had them uh cnc ported um the porting kind of finished off the uh combustion chamber a little bit did a light bit of unshrouding around the edges of the chamber if you look at the intake and exhaust ports you can see a 5-axis cnc machine went in there opened them up and kind of cleaned them up took out all the sharp radiuses especially uh where a lot of flow can be gained is in the pocket area of right into the valve so the short side radius is all nice and cleaned up and blended no sharp edges and the valve seats are blended into the bowl of the port this is where you could pick up a lot of horsepower another thing we did is we had our valve job done with a new and cnc machine so unlike a regular valve job this actually uses a cnc machine to cut a continuous radius from the combustion chamber into the port so instead of doing like a three angle valve job with like cutters or stones uh where you have your chamber cut your valve seating 45 degree surface and the 70 degree throat cut it's one smooth radius with a 45 degree seat and this is the best way to get flow and the new and valve job actually picks up quite a bit of power over a regular valve job it's kind of hard to see on video but it's actually really neat it's one smooth blend now of course to get more flow you need to have valves that are capable of it so we use supertech intake and exhaust valves the exhaust valve is made out of in canal this is a semi-exotic engineering alloy that's capable of taking a lot of heat so that's critical in the turbo motor this contour is kind of more straight up and down so the flow going out of the out of the cylinder can take a smoother turn going into the exhaust port so this shape actually picks up flow over the stock valve the intake valve is made out of nitrided stainless steel it has what you call a tulip profile so it's kind of flat this kind of helps the flow going into the combustion chamber and you also notice that the stem is turned down this turned down stem actually picks up maybe eight to ten percent of the flow because it's smaller diameter and blocks less area now you notice the exhaust valve doesn't have that it would be nice but the exhaust valve always has to dissipate heat like out of the combustion chamber because the head gets really hot so to conduct the heat um this part of the stem is not taken down now some naturally aspirated motors also have a reduced stem on the exhaust side but to be conservative uh we did not specify that uh for long life um our valves are cryogenically treated uh by ctp cryogenics and we also wpc treated the valves particularly the stems wpc is a japanese metal treatment process that gives a really hard smooth lubricious surface finish that wears really well even though like the stem is nitride it you can still wpc over nitriding and it still works wpc also does not change any dimensions so you don't have any problem with your valve to guide clearance or anything after treatment another critical part is the camshaft now since this is a pretty it's going to be a pretty solid performance motor so we're using a relatively uh radical cam it's a kelford uh 199k series cam the k series cam has the intake duration of 272 degrees an exhaust ration of 268 and uh 11.5 millimeters of intake lift and 10.5 millimeters of exhaust lift now this isn't um the most radical ej cam that kelford makes but one thing you got to be careful when you're doing a small displacement motor um like under 2.5 liters you have to be careful not to overcame the engine because overcamming creates like a really narrow power band and poor running characteristics at low rpm so since this engine even though it's trackable it also has to be decent on the street we didn't want to go too much with too much overlap or too much duration because that really kills the bottom end um this cam is kind of um short shorter duration high lift and that usually generates a broader power band with decent torque um one thing about a short duration a high lift is it creates pretty aggressive valve motion that has to be controlled so of course we had to go with stiffer valve springs now this is a kelford valve spring and it's uh tailored for this cam uh some cool things about this spring is um it's a beehive spring so what you when you notice it's kind of hard to tell on video but it's kind of shaped like a beehive this the beehive shape has some advantages like it can be compressed more and because the beehive kind of collapses on itself the spring can have more lift before it goes into coil bind the other advantage is since the beehive is smaller on the top you can run a smaller keeper the smaller keeper is lighter so this reciprocating weight so that's an advantage to avoid valve float and the last advantage of a beehive spring is that since it's a regular shape um it's not it's likely to have problems with spring surge due to like high order harmonics you usually have to look out for surge with maybe fifth floor harmonics which is at high rpms these kind of harmonics at high rpms the forces are pretty low but at high rpm the forces could build up and cause spring surge which you would perceive as valve floats so the beehive shape kind of resists that small keeper is good for durability because valve springs fatigue and break we had ctp cryogenics cryogenically treat our springs and we also had them wpc treated both the spring and the retainer wpc treatment usually really increases the fatigue strength of the spring probably by about a hundred percent um also uh it helps the retainers because valves rotate as the engine runs so the keepers are always kind of turning on the in inside of the retainer and the retainer kind of turns on the spring and in high performance engines uh usually that's the wear factor that you always have to be careful like if they wear out too much the uh keepers start sticking in the retainers and the retainer starts popping up you lose installed height you lose spring tension it gets sloppy you can end up dropping a valve so all good things good for reliability there while we're talking about valve train one of the problems with the ej is the timing belt guide breaks so iag makes a heavy duty built one uh slotted aluminum won't break another iag part they're running is their tgv valve delete the stock engine has these things called tgv valves that are in the intake manifold and they open and close and they impart a swirl into the intake flow now this is for emissions purposes and it actually kind of hampers low in power development and it also isn't good for topping power it's also a thing that can break and you don't want to have that so these completely removed the tg tgv system and uh it's a nice clean thing like uh i know in our car we actually took them out and we welded up the holes on the stock one this is a lot easier to do than that so part of developing a reliable subaru engine is modifying the case the case is one of the weak points of the subaru engine when you pick it up it's uh really light and this light little piece of aluminum contains a lot of violence and uh when you start approaching 500 horsepower the whole thing starts flexing and losing integrity and you start getting bearing wear and you know like other problems like head sealing like the whole thing starts flexing apart this wear is bad on the crankshaft batting all the reciprocating points and it's hard to maintain head gasket seal so what we did is we set our cases out to out front motorsports and they did their closed deck conversion so what they do is they put the the case of the cnc machine and they machine out the open deck part of the block so their own insert which is also a cnc piece of build aluminum can be pressed in there it presses in at a light interference fit and you can see like how perfect the fit is like you can't even see any gaps and maybe it's a slightly different color they press it in and then they deck the block so it's perfectly flat after they do this what they'll do is align bore the case and they'll do the finished machining of the bore in the fixture like subaru cases are really flimsy so when you bolt on the cylinder heads and actually bolt them together they distort and that distorts the bearing boards it also distorts the cylinder bores now this distortion can be really extreme like almost two thousandths of an inch so if you don't use fixtures and you just go to like yo machine shop and have your have your cases board when you assemble the engine uh if if your cylinder walls are distorted like one and a half to two thousands uh you're going to have a hard time getting your rings to seal you're going to get cylinder wall scuffing and all kinds of stuff uh this is where those rumors that you hear that uh a subaru engine can't be rebuilt by anyone other than the factory come from um now when you get when you get the subaru short block from the factory sure it's all it's all good just like the factory but it's kind of a myth you can do a good subaru engine just you need the fixtures so uh how the the block is machined there's a plate that stimulates the cylinder head and there's also a plate that simulates the other case now it's all bolted together and torqued down to uh the right specs and this pre-distorts the um the cylinder walls so uh the cylinder can be bored and honed uh to the exact same dimensions that'll be with the head and the other case half bolted on um this gives you a nice accurate uh bar when assembled and series have to be done this way like a lot of machine shops don't and that's why a lot of your built subaru engines have a short life don't work all that great and die real quick now after this the case halves are are kind of surfaced on the parting side right here they're bolted together and then the torque plates are are also bolted on and the cases are a line board so line boring uh with all this uh pre-bolted on stress will make sure that your bearing bars are round and lined up straight when they're when the engine's assembled that way it's now tweaking you get weird wear patterns another thing is well everything was being machined um the holes are reamed out and re-threaded to uh run heavy-duty studs and heavy-duty case bolts now these are important to keep uh the flexing subaru together at higher horsepower so we went up a millimeter in stud size and we're going to run more torque of course all the fixturing was done to the new higher torque level so we get the same amount of distortion um this stuff really helps hold the engine together when you're running higher boost and uh really helps your light reliability your bearing wear and everything is a lot better your cylinder ceiling is a lot better also a touch that was done is the water jackets were ported out to exactly match the head gasket and then exactly match the water passages in the head this lets uh coolant flow between the head and the block better and the oil passage from the oil pump to the filter boss was all supported this helps uh you know oil oil from your uh pump to your filter have less restriction like oiling these engines are kind of a problem and little details like this uh really help so um that helps with the a big headache of the subaru is keeping the the block together if we're to go for even more horsepower like maybe over 600 uh we would also probably dalpin um in the in the bearing area and if we're doing a 2.5 liter whether it's more stroke and more stress we would also do that but we didn't do that in this particular engine but if uh it was going to be a higher boost higher power application we would have done that extra step um another thing we did is to preserve the free free revving feel of the engine is we're running a longer connecting rod than stock it's 132.9 millimeters long that's longer than the stock uh stock rod which is one 130.5 millimeters what the longer rod does is it slows your piston acceleration down from tdc and it kind of reduces your mean piston speed um some of the things that you get from that is um when you're accelerating the rod from tdc that puts a lot of tensile stress stress on your rod bolts um and your crank that's additional stress um when the piston is in the region of top dead center uh like a short rod puts a lot of thrust load on the piston so the piston wants to dig into the cylinder wall a longer rod reduces the thrust load and then reduces your friction and the longer rod actually spends more dwell time at around tdc so that actually gives you a little bit more time to fill the cylinders which improves your volumetric efficiency it also lets the explosion impinge on the piston dome a little bit longer so that improves your thermal efficiency potentially now this is a little bit hard to prove on the dyno like we've dialed long rod and short rod motors and they're not that different a lot of the times but the feel of the engine while you're actually driving it is pretty different the engine with a long rod feels a lot smoother it feels a lot more happy to rev and it even sounds a lot different it sounds smoother and less thrashy when you have a long rod so some of this stuff doesn't pick up on the dyno but it's a different definite characteristic you can feel when driving the car now probably all of us have experienced engines that are like thrashy you rev them to a certain point and they kind of scream and um you know they sound kind of badass and crazy but it also sounds like they're right on the edge and they're you know like psychologically you're thinking oh man it's close to blowing up but like a long rod engine kind of just smoothly revs up there and kind of shrieks instead of screams so i guess it's kind of like the difference between hearing like an indy car engine and a nascar engine or something it's kind of an exaggeration but you can definitely hear and feel the difference when driving a long rod motor and it definitely puts less stress on the internal components this eagle rod is made out of 4340 chromoly now this is a higher nickel higher chromium content steel than your typical 4130 chromoly that you kind of find in your frame or things like that the higher nickel and chromium content makes the metal tougher and more impact and fatigue resistant so the metal itself is way better than what you find in your uh stock rod uh it's also better than a lot of stuff that's in the aftermarket uh we're using eagle's heavy duty version of the ej rod and this uses a arp custom age 625 bolt this is arp's top of the line rod bolt and it's almost 50 stronger than the arp 2000 bolt that's typical in most rods uh since this is going to be a high revving engine with a decent amount of boost we want the best and uh we use 625 bolts and like all our really serious engines and this rod is no exception in addition to the 625 custom made rod bolts we've done an additional step we take the bolts out and we have the bolts cryo treated then wpc treated before reassembling that way the shanks and all the threads and everything are wp seed this gives the rod bolts more fatigue strength which is critical the rod bolts are probably the highest stress part in the engine and generally when you have a catastrophic engine failure the most common thing that causes this is a rod bolt failure so it's an extra precaution we take to help the rod bolts out as much as they can the eagle rod is an h profile i usually like h profiles because they place more material in the area of bending stress it's just my preference they also have like a little feature rib that's inside here and and uh through finite element analysis they found that this rib actually increases uh both tensile and fatigue strength quite a bit without very much weight penalty has a silicone bronze pin with double oilers a lot of rods only have single oilers and the oilers are at the bottom part here which is actually a good place to put them a lot of rods put the oiler on the top but the top is the most highly stressed part of the rod from the piston pin and when you're putting an oiler hole there you're actually weakening that area quite a bit so you can see the oiler holes are on the side where they don't weaken the rod as much to accommodate the long rod we're using a custom je piston now this is the je frs forging you can see it's a strut type forging which means there's no excess material anywhere that you don't need it for a support of the piston pin or support of the skirts the fr-s is really lightweight and je just came out with the new forging method where their forging dies are closer to net shape so you get good grain flow all around the piston like right where you need it and this makes for a more homogeneous stronger piston that doesn't weigh anymore so it's je's new forging technology well it's not that new they've been doing it for about a year or more um one of the really interesting things is uh you see how the piston pin goes way up into the oil ring groove um we did this to accommodate the longer rods so the oil ring is actually kind of unsupported for this little distance now that might seem kind of crazy but you know we've done this on quite a few different engines and we haven't even noticed any kind of bad effects so this piston is 8.5 to 1 compression now you can see it's a low compression piston by the dish and it's 93 millimeters in bore that's up from the stock 92 millimeter bore so when you bore and stroke the engine the displacement ends up being 2255 cc's so you do all this boring and stroking it's part way to an ej almost halfway there we think that this will give us a nice boost in torque help the engine spool better help the engine tolerate the bigger cam and uh maybe it won't have the grunt of the ej but we think it'll still rev nice and freely like like a 2 liter well it'll be really cool the number one compression ring is um it's 0.8 millimeters and it's uh hard nitride it low tension the number two compression ring is um iron and it has a dykes profile it's 1.2 millimeters it's also a low tension uh it has a naper profile what an april profile is is the face of the ring has kind of like a hook and the hook actually kind of helps the ring seat in quicker it's that little edge that i'll break into the cylinder really quick and also tends to scrape any oil that gets past the oil rings off the cylinder walls so it's really good as a second ring the little naper hook also like pushes pretty hard into the cylinder wall so um because it has less surface area so even though the tension is low the the ceiling is still really good and the friction is low um the nitriding on the number one ring makes it really hard and wear resistant and the iron of the second ring kind of breaks in quick so it's the best of both worlds we wpc treated the piston to kind of harden it up and make it super slippery it's really smooth and saturday the surface is hardened up to about four tenths down into the metal it's really hard wear resistant low friction uh also the wpc treatment gets into the ring grooves and uh makes them super hard and slippery so you're less likely to get micro welding between the ring and the piston this this helps like ring seal under super high boost and long-term life of these parts the rings are also wpc treated which greatly helps their life we usually find that it improves ring life up to 50 percent and to top it all off the pistons rings piston pins and rods are all not only wpc treated but also have been cryogenically treated by ctp cryogenics actually we wpc'ed and cryogenically treated the crankshaft also so um i guess we gotta talk about cryogenics at this point uh cryogenics is sort of something that you know like seems like snake oil but when you look at from the scientific viewpoint it's actually not um you got to kind of think of cryogenics as an extension of the heat treating process um it involves taking the part down to like about the temperature of liquid nitrogen slowly and bringing it back up to temperature and kind of cycling it back and forth like this over the period of um several days now what this does just to be short is it converts a lot of austenite in ferrous metal to martinsight martensite is a kind of a harder iron or steel molecule i guess just to put it very simply harder and more wear resistant um so you get your durability from that also uh the the thermal cycling removes all all the internal stress caused by manufacturing of the part and stress relieves it really well you combine that with wpc and you have a part that can easily take twice as many cycles before failure you also have a part that the surface is slipperier smoother and significantly longer wearing so on a lot of our critical engines we usually recommend both wpc and cryo treating um i could talk a lot more about cryotreat but then that's probably going to be the subject of another video it gets way in the metallurgy and yeah we don't want to get totally into that for this but let's just say it works and it's something we can do um so the je piston pins we're running are uh for a turbo motor so they're a little bit longer than you would would have for a naturally aspirated engine so they engage more bearing area in the piston this makes them less likely to flex and we also run like a thicker wall section than you typically find in a naturally aspirated motor turbo motor doesn't need the rev as high so you don't have to get every little gram out of the reciprocating parts and it's better to make these tough one of the reasons is a turbo motor has way more cylinder pressure it actually can flex the piston pin which makes the piston pin kind of season the small end of the rod and it can spin the bushing out if that happens everything starts to eat into each other and the smalling of the rod or the piston pin fails or the pin boss of the piston fails and there goes your motor so um that's one of the reasons why we use a thicker pin on turbo motors now here's where kind of the cool stuff is for for power production we wanted to get more displacement to get some torque but we also wanted to keep the free revvingness of the engine so the heart of that is this eagle crank the eagle crank has a 83 millimeter stroke that's up from the stock 75 millimeter now this seems like a huge jump in stroke and and uh really stroking a motor that much typically makes an engine um less less happy to rev and all that but when you look at 83 millimeters for a two point something liter engine it's really not that extreme uh for instance that's a shorter stroke than just about any popular performance engine um you know it's shorter than a uh k20a for example honda it's a shorter stroke than sr20 nissan it's a shorter stroke than the b18c honda so the stroke to bore ratio is still pretty con conducive for high revs in addition to having a longer stroke the eagle crank is uh made from a 4340 chromoly forging uh just like the rods 4340 is a high nickel high chromium alloy that's stronger and tougher than your traditional steel and a lot of the lesser alloys that they sometimes use for aftermarket cranks you could see that the crank has generous radiuses at the journals these radiuses here are critical for fatigue strength and they really help take increase the number of cycles that the crank could take without failing another trick that is done to the crank is you probably notice this teardrop profiling on the main bearing oil holes now what that does is it acts like a little reservoir to help spread the oil film on the bearing it also gives you a little bit more dwell time to build up the oil film as the crank spins around so it's a cool little trick if a crank doesn't have this we normally hand do it but it comes this way from eagle so we don't have to mess around with it um we also got eagles optional esp armor treatment to the crank now this is a surface treatment where the crank is isotropically polished um it's a combination of electric electrical and chemical kind of reverse plating that leaves an ultra smooth surface when you feel the esp armor i mean it's like super slick it's almost kind of crazy and has this kind of chrome look to it um what this does is it removes any kind of area where a crack could propagate like micro cracks so it greatly improves your fatigue strength generally about 100 percent over a non-treated crank which seems pretty crazy um and also this like super smooth surface reduces uh frictional loss on the journals it also reduces uh windage drag as the crank spins around and cuts through the oil cloud that's flying around the crank case um it's really common on a like a big v8 engine where they have a lot of data where esp armor picks up like 7 to 10 horsepower just from this frictional reduction not sure what to do in this in the four cylinder but it'll probably give you at least a couple horsepower but we're more interested in the increases in durability that esp armor offers and to top it off on top of that we also wpc treated and cryogenically treated this crank as well so i don't think fatigue is going to be so much of an issue with this crank but it has like every prep trick we know done to it so have a lot of confidence in this guy while we're talking about the reciprocating parts of the motor we're going to be getting rid of the stock harmonic balancer and adding a fluid damper for a lot of our big horsepower builds we prefer to use the fluid damper now inside this housing you have a weighted ring that spins around in a viscous silicone fluid now like a regular harmonic balancer has a weight that's connected to the crank uh hub so when the cranks gain a lot of torsional whip the the weight of the of the ring is tuned to where it helps attenuate some of that vibration that uh during its critical peaks like uh due to harmonics so it helps attenuate a lot of the crank whip what's not as good about a stock type balancer is the rubber is subjected to like high cycle shear forces all the time and breaks down with age so your tuning gets off as the damper ages and also this kind of tuned damper is only kind of it only works at the certain narrow rpm range where the weight is tuned for the vibration now the fluid damper spinning around freely in silicone fluid is way more consistent there's no rubber to break down or shear when the ring is not constrained the damper is more amplitude sensitive than frequency sensitive so the more the whip and the crank the more it's going to provide the damping force to damp out that that whip this means that it works over a wider rpm range and it's kind of more forgiving and it's not so dependent on the the tune of the ring because these things work so good over such a wide range we like to use them whenever there's an application when we have a big power engine and you can really feel the difference on some engines you even pick up some horsepower because like let's say you have a crank trigger ignition if you can reduce the amount of whip in the crank you're actually going to get way more accurate timing over the entire rpm range and also when the crank is not flexing and whipping around you have a reduction in friction on some engines we've actually measured an increase of power sometimes it could be as much as 12 horsepower we've measured with a fluid damper on my personal ej my 2.5 liter i have a fluid damper to be honest we didn't measure any power gain on the dyno but driving the car around i could tell that it's a lot smoother like the vibrations are almost totally eliminated from the engine you can really feel it even with uh performance motor mounts and the also the engine even sounds a little different and and revs a little bit more freely the dyno didn't pick it up but it's a feel thing and i'm sure reducing those vibrations is going to help my engine live longer for engine bearings we're running king's xp bearings we've had really good luck with king bearings the xps are really hard material they have like a copper matrix it's like a tri-metal type bearing and the main load-bearing part has a lot of copper so it's really hard so it has a lot of load bearing capacity before it squishes out the copper also helps conduct heat out of the bearing surface a lot better because of copper's high thermal conductivity and the new thing is the latest xp bearings have a copper nanoparticle coating on the top layer and a lot of these uh bearing coatings that we've run into are kind of like a dry film lube and they kind of wear off kind of quick but they kind of help the protect the main bearing and they're a good thing but uh with king the the coating actually increases the bearing's load bearing capacity and it's kind of like hard and it stays there we've taken engines apart after more than one hard racing season and the black is still there normally if it's just like a organic resin coating the black is usually almost all gone but with the king bearings it's still there we've used king bearings in really severe conditions like for a thousand plus horsepower forming the drift engines running ethanol and if you know ethanol it really dilutes the oil really quick and oil shears down it doesn't lubricate so good but even after more in the season the king bearings still look pretty decent after we take the engine apart and most bearings typically look pretty haggard after that kind of use even the best bearings so we really like king and we use them on just about all our engine builds where there's an application for them uh what we're talking about all this lubrication of your bearings and all your reciprocating parts is really critical so we're running a larger oil pump this is a ej oem pump from a jdm engine it has 11 millimeter gears versus the stock gears which are 10 millimeter so it's about a 15 increase in oil volume over stock [Applause] as another precaution we wpc treated the oil pump gears and we cryo-treated them oil pump gear failure is a really common way that engines blow up especially stroked engines so the wpc and cryo probably increased the fatigue strength of the gear probably about a hundred percent it also reduces the friction and reduces the heat that get put gets put in the oil we also wpc treated the pressure relief valve the pressure relief bore and the inside of the housing all the reduced friction it's not like a big power thing but it really helps reliability and uh you know reliability is always good it doesn't cost too much to do that uh the final thing we're doing is uh ejs have like a lot of problems with the oiling like actually any flat motor does when you corner the oil tends to go as it sloshes up under g loads it tends to go up into the cylinder heads any flat motor from a vw to a porsche to a suru always has problems with crankcase ventilation and air oil separation and spitting oil out the breathers so it's not just a subaru thing it's like a flat motor thing um so to prevent any oiling problems uh we're running a killer bee oil pan now this has um i think it's about one and a half quarts more capacity it's deeper than the stock pan as you can see it has baffling here these baffles keep the oil like in the pan and keep it from sloshing up into the top end it also keeps the oil away from the crank and away from getting pounded around by the pistons [Applause] another thing we're running is the the killer bee windage tray the the windage tray scrapes oil off the spinning reciprocating assembly with these uh close tolerance scrapers and these one-way louvers this reduces the windage cloud and returns oil to the pan quicker by reducing the windage cloud it also is good for a few horsepower now i i have never done an a to b test on the subaru engine but i've done on some other four cylinders and having a winded tray has always given the power increase it's usually like five or six wheel horsepower um a subaru engine has a worse of an oil control problem you know i would say it probably at least gives five horsepower and gives you better oil more oil in the sump less everywhere else less spitting out your breathers it's a win-win thing uh finally um we're running the killer b oil pump pickup now this solves like a number of bad ej problems ejs are infamous for the oil pump pickup fatiguing and braking even on bone stock engines usually when this sucker snaps off you lose all your oil pressure and there goes your whole motor the killer b one is a lot thicker a lot stronger the bracing is a lot beefier this guy is not going anywhere also the tube has a little bit bigger id so um you're less likely you have less restriction and you're less likely to cavitate the oil pump uh this thing is a mandatory thing for any any built subaru like i mean even for a stock subaru it's a it's a good investment to protect your engine i i would do the pan and the winded train the oil pump pickup on any subaru that's track driven modified stock or not if you'd like for us to build your engine go to motoiq.com and fill out all your information we'll get back to you we can build whatever subaru engine to any level you want i hope you enjoyed this video on building subaru engines if you enjoyed this content please subscribe to our youtube channel and if you want to read about this stuff in detail go to motoiq.com and check it out till next time

Channel: MotoIQ

Views: 522,421

Keywords: motoiq, EJ, Subaru, EJ20, EJ25, WRX

Id: CMrXk8D4RvQ

Length: 45min 52sec (2752 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 05 2021