Cut and Buff The right way with David Brost and Frank Roll

hi I'm Dave broast I work at Steve's auto restorations here in Portland Oregon I've been in this business for about 20 years and I'm gonna show you how to cut buff and polish today so let's get started before we get started I'm going to show you all the products that we're going to use as always between processes I always use an air gun and blow off the surface and clean it before the next step in the first segment I'm going to demonstrate color sanding we're going to use 3m sandpaper in a thousand grit 1500 grit and 2,000 grit we will be using our sanding blocks from dura block medium hard and a McGuire's soft pad in the second segment I'm going to demonstrate machine polishing techniques we're going to be using 3m rubbing compound using the Makeda polisher we have two different polishing pads that we'll be using one is wool for rough cutting and the foam pad is used for final glaze this is the cleaning spur used to clean the polish from the wool pad anytime using a mechanized polishing device be sure and use a dust mask and eye protection in the final segment I'm going to show you how to get that beautiful shine using mothers Showtime instant detailer the application pads and mothers pure carnauba wax the reason I'm asking the hinges is because we don't want to color sand them or run the buffer against them to protect the paint they get a lot of good flow from the paint gun when they're shot so we don't need to get in here and color sand them or polish them up at all and it also helps to facilitate cleanup so that we don't spend an extra amount of time trying to clean up the panel and it's always a bonus when we've got the part of the car not attached to the car so that we can get around to all of the edges the first thing I'm going to do is mask off the reveal which is right here it's a line that is used on the early 30s cars and I don't want to understand that with 1,000 grit which is what I start my color sanding with I will sand it with 1500 grit in the second step so we completely mask it off to protect it the paper on here to protect any jams some of the residue from the color sandy doesn't make a mess of the rest of the door and it's also left on while we buffed the paint the panel has been completely painted and clear coated and you can see the texture right in here as it comes out of the booth we've started a 1000 grit color sand right here and you can see the transition area right here I'm going to go in and continue the color sanding to get it's smooth all the way across the panel we wet sand the panel with thousand grit to begin with and we keep that in the water so that we get a nice finish with it use a soft block and a harder block and put my paper on a quarter sheet of it and hold it like this and I'll take a cloth a wet cloth with me and I'll come in here and get it wet and I will sand back and forth never standing in the same place and I'll do about a 12 inch to 14 inch square area I will then turn the block and go 90 degrees to the first series of sands so that again I'm not sitting in the same spot sanding because you want to make sure that the block standing here or the color sanding is consistent and we don't leave any gouges or what we call sand tracks if you sand in one place the whole time while you're sanding you'll end up with a track and that's impossible to get out in the polishing stage so the idea is to crosshatch like this turning the block 90 degrees and running up and down the panel and I'll add more water as I need to and at the same time I'll keep an eye on my progress so that I don't over sand the area we use a base coat clear coat painting system the base coat is the color of the car and the clear coat goes over the top that's what we're sanding right now that's why you can see the kind of white milky residue we're actually milling down clear to get it nice and straight I'm gonna dry the panel where I was standing right now blow-dry that so we can check our progress and you can see the area in the middle here while I was standing we have a real good area that is completely sanded with a thousand grit but as you get out to the edges you can see where there are still more of the orange peel that we need to get rid of in a thousand grits and I'm going to wet the panel I'm going to start color sanding with a thousand grit and get rid of some of that texture I never sand in the same direction once I do what we call cross hatching I'll sand one direction for a little while and then I'll reverse it and go 90 degrees and the reason we do that is so that we eliminate our sand scratch possibilities we call that tracking and we don't want that in the panel by cross-hatching we end up with a very smooth glass-like finish on the panel when we're all done after doing this for a few minutes I'm going to go ahead and stop and put my pad and sandpaper in the water to keep it fresh and the reason I do that is that the edges of the sandpaper can cut into the clear if it's rather soft and the water helps to keep the edges of the sandpaper soft I'm gonna wipe the panel down like so and dry it off with a blowgun and check our progress you can see where I was sanding that it's nice and flat now and you can see the crosshatch marks so it's a good even pattern and then around the edge of the panel you can see the orange peel dots that are still left and those we have to take out with the color standing and as I work my way out to the edge I don't go all the way off the edge of the panel we want to be really careful about not sanding too much from the edge of the panel because it's the first place that you can cut through into the base color and at that point the whole panel has to be reshot even though this is just one part of the car it's pretty exciting to get in and color sand this because you can start to see just how smooth and how glossy it's gonna be when it's all done and you can just see it coming along and going towards completion for the owner and the shows that we like to take these cars to and it's just one of the many processes that we've got to go through to get the cars on the road I'll add some more water you can tell that after a little while that the water gets moved around a lot and the block will actually start to stick just a little bit you can feel it in your hand all you need to do is just add a little bit more water to it and continue sanding and I'm working further out so I know that I've already sanded towards the center of the door and I'm working out towards the edges getting up towards the reveal a little bit and in that area I need to be careful and not to ride the block up onto the reveal get up here and stand next to the reveal and the tape edge and again I use a crosshatch pattern I'll reverse the direction of the sanding movement and that again is so that we don't have sand tracks when you sand in one direction it will cause sand tracks and you will not be able to polish those out so I just go back and forth changing my direction each time and I don't put a lot of pressure on the pad or the block just enough to hold the paper on the pad okay will dry this up and check our progress there's several different techniques for color sanding and removing the water from the surface some of the guys use a little rubber squeegee and that works real well I like to just use my cloth and wipe it and then blow it dry finishing up across the bottom of the reveal again carefully cross hatching and changing my direction of the sand then going to work down the edge of the door and here we have to be really careful very important not to sand here in one spot because you have a great chance of cutting the edge and going through the clear into the base coat and at that point you're going to have to repaint the entire door if that does happen the first thing you'll notice is that the milky white residue of the clear you'll see here will turn whatever color your panel is in this case it would be kind of a pinkish color and at that point you've broken through and you'll have to stop and reshoot the door and then color sand it again there's no UV protection in the base coat and it will cause the base coat and the clear coat to eventually separate from one another then your paint job is really no good anymore and we've always tried to do a show-quality work here at the shop a lot of the cars are driven and taking real good care of but we want to make sure these paint jobs last a lifetime for the cars so as you can see I'm working closer and closer to the edge of the door cross-hatching as I go and just being real careful and watching what I'm doing I may come in and a little bit more often and dry it off and again check my progress you can see where I'm color sanding right up to the edge of the door at this point this is where we have to be really careful so that we don't break through the clear into the base coat which is the color of the car and I've got a little bit more I can sand you could see some of the dots left from the orange peel the way it was shot we want to flatten that all out at the same time being extremely cautious not to go through the clear I'm working down the panel in my head I keep an idea of where I have color sanded already so that I don't miss any of the spots so that we get rid of all of the orange peel I'm gonna work down the door edge again being very careful not to sand in one spot for any length of time we go up and down cross-hatching changing the direction it's a variety so we get a good flat surface it's also very important to remember to run the sanding block off the edge of the door like this don't run it back this way because that's when the edge will get burned I add a little bit more water it's getting a little sticky and I'm gonna continue on down the door edge and again the pressure that I put on the block and the sand paper is very light just enough to hold it together I don't push down very hard at all the thousand grit sandpaper will last quite a long time when it's new you can feel the grit as you're sanding in the paper even though it's really fine but after a little while it will tend to dull up and it gets a little slicker and the longer it sits in the water it tends to dull off as well it will last the longest out of the finer grits the 1200 the 1500 and the 2000 grits are coming up and those papers will not last very long at all this thousand grit sheet that I have now I should be able to do the whole door and finish the color sanding with this thousand grit it's much easier to color sand and polish this drawer off of the car when we're doing cards here at the shop we always do them ground up so they're brought from bare metal all the way up to a turnkey state meaning that the car is completed it can be driven out the door and so each part is painted individually after it's been fit to the car and then that way we can color sand and polish each and every part necessary to put the car together now that way I can put it on a horizontal surface like this and get right to every edge if it were on the car I would have a hard time getting to the lower edges and also to the outside edges as they would be right up next to the say the quarter panel or the rocker of the car the bottom of the door you can also see down here we're on color standing that the door does curved downward a little bit and it's harder to get at that area when it's on the car okay I'm going to go ahead and dry this off and check progress again this is a process that you just have to keep repeating you can see this edge right down here is a lot crisper than it was before I think that's good enough for the thousand grit sandpaper right along here this edge needs a little bit more color sanding I can still see some of the orange peel so I'm going to sand there next and get rid of those usually about the third time through with the thousand grit sandpaper most of the orange peel will be gone and you'll have a real good surface to start the next sand I'll go ahead and dry this up - okay what I'm doing right now is I'm getting it a low angle and I'm sighting across the panel using the reflections of the overhead lights in order to locate any of the orange peel that I've missed at this point after the thousand grit sand it's going to be really hard to find you may find a small group of light bumps and that will show up after it's been polished as a series of very small ripples and all the pars we do we want to try and get rid of all of that right now I'm not seeing anything at all so that area looks really good then I go ahead and continue to color sand down the bottom part of the door right here we've got a little bit of a flaw in the paint it's really minor but here at Steve's we like to take care of every flaw then we find in the paint which is not very often this could have been a little speck in the spray gun it could have been something that landed on the clear after it was shot however it's very small and we'll go ahead and color sand that out once again I'm working on the panel I'm not standing in one spot and I'm starting on the panel and sanding off of the panel I'm going to change direction so that we're cross hatching again doesn't matter if we're working in the middle of the panel getting rid of the orange peel or going after a flaw we want to spread out the sanding pattern so that we can get a nice smooth finish when it's all done you stand in one spot the whole time the least you'll end up with is a dip or a low spot and the show-quality paint jobs that we do you can see that when you sight down the side of a car and we want to eliminate those okay let's check the progress okay a little bit of imperfections filling a clear go ahead and color stand down cross-hatching and starting along the panel and color sanding off of the panel so that I don't hit the edge of the door and you'll go through the clear it shouldn't take much and I'm actually folding the sandpaper and sanding block lighter than I normally would and decrease the pressure on the edge of the door I'm gonna go ahead and try it off and send know it's going and you can see the edge right here when we throw the sander and that's exactly how you want to look when you're ready to go into the fill another great camping thing this is one of the more complex areas of a car to color sand when you're going around a radius like this this is a thousand grit and I'm color standing with and I'm using the hard block and they've soft block underneath of it so that it will conform to that curve and the radius a little bit more so it won't cut it flat we want to make sure that it stays nice and round and just like color sanding before on a flat area you want to constantly move the block back and forth and crosshatch change the direction and keep moving it's really critical on these radiuses because when the paint is applied to the part gravity takes over and the paint flows away from the radiuses and down the panel as it dries and so the paint is actually thinner right there and make sure that we don't cut through the clear and then to the basecoat because once again we'll have to repaint parts and as we work closer towards the edge of the panel also being careful of the reveal and the edge of the door so that I don't sand too much there all at once right here I'll use thousand grit sandpaper and the side of my thumb and carefully sand right up next to the taped area we have another reveal for this particular car which has a curtain rod that comes right out of the little reveal here and we can't block right up next to it and once again even with just my thumb I'm going to go in and crosshatch and I'm not going to stand in the same place twice this is a method to use only in small impossible to reach areas with the block I'm going to go ahead and dry that off well it's all good now I'll be writing for 15 minute or no problem okay now that we're done with the thousand quick sand just a quick final inspection to make sure we're ready for 1500 and it looks real good so we should build a little 1500 and then on to 2000 and ready for a polish now that we're done with the thousand grit color sand we're going to go ahead and start the 1500 grit color sand it's the same process cross-hatching changing direction and not standing in the same place the grid is finer and what we're trying to do right now is get rid of the thousand grit sand scratches and nothing else all of the orange peels should be gone and this will help with polishing and getting that glass smooth finish that we look for this end needs to be real thorough always try and overlap each section that I do so that we don't miss anything same basic approach as the thousand grit because if we get close to a reveal again we're worked out real carefully and crosshatch up to the tape back and forth to remove those thousand grit sand scratches and again it's a cross-hatching movement that we want to see and not just back and forth that's what creates that a tracking we don't want that as we get close again to the edge we want to be careful about not putting too much pressure on the edge so that we don't cut through to the base coats and as we've already sanded with 1000 grit paper the clear is a little bit thinner than it was before we started so we need to be really careful about Stan light on the edges you don't want to over stand those areas okay I'm gonna go ahead and dry this off so we can check our progress again when we're color sanding with such fine grits we always want to use a really soft almost a microfiber type of material so that it doesn't scratch the surface any deeper than the thousand grit that we've already used on it so a terry terry cloth towel and this is is really too abrasive for the surface that we're working with so we always try and use something real soft diapers will work really good this type of cloth can be found at a Autobody supply shop and most any department stores do carry baby diapers and the 100% cotton will work real well too as I checked my work with the 1500 grit I want to look for any leftover or orange peel if there's any slight notice of that I will understand that some more again I'm looking for a smoothness of finish with a 1500 grit and it's really hard to tell the difference visually between the thousand and fifteen hundred I can see a little bit here where I stopped with the 1500 and we can see some of the thousand grit other than that I just need to make sure that I'm getting all the way through the panel thoroughly so I'll continue sanding with the 1500 and again I'll use the same technique for putting the paper on the pad so that the edges are soft and not sharp so will not cut into the clear paint this will be done again in the 2,000 grit sand and that really helps to keep everything nice and smooth because as we get down in the finishing phases before polish it's really important to keep things smooth and I'll continue the cross-hatching method and I'll overlap each sand stroke and I'll overlap also into the previous area that I sanded a little bit so that it's done thoroughly once we're done color sanding all of this with mm we have probably color sanded close to half of the clear coat from the panel and that's why it gets real important that we watch the edges and not sand off too much we normally will apply four to five coats of clear and we are always working to apply it leaving a very tight-knit orange peel pattern that will give us a better finish when we're done color sanding then something that looks glossy err or flatter from the spray gun I use the term color sanding when working with the thousand fifteen hundred mm grit sandpaper because years ago there wasn't much in the way of clerk coats and when he sanded the car you were standing right on the color so if this panel didn't have clear coat on it you would notice a lot of the residue would be the same color as the panel and that's what we termed it color sanding because you were sanding the color on the car but these days we use the base coat clear coat method of spraying and that way we're just standing on the clear coat the white milky film that you see here and that will give a better protection for the color it'll last longer take quite a few more waxings and detailing x' than just plain color because every time you go in and polish or color sand to get rid of scratches or imperfections in the paint you're removing that paint until eventually you'll go right through into the primer of the car I'll go ahead and dry this off again now that I'm done sanding a flat panel area with the thousand grit and 1500 grit sandpaper I'm going to work this little bit more complex area with 1500 grit so that we'll get this flat as well but we don't need the thousand grit sand on that because again this is a delicate area and we don't have quite as much clear along the highlights as we do in the middle of the panel and also when we're going to polish this after it's all color sanded it's really difficult to get in to the crevice or the crease line to polish that up we have to do a lot of hand polishing so the finer the grit of the color sandpaper we can use the better off we'll be so I'll go ahead and mask this up for the 1500 we use 3m brand tape because it holds out real well stays on the part and when we pull it up it doesn't leave any tape residue it's also able to withstand quite a bit of abuse from the sanding blocks and whatnot that we put on it so in taping the reveal like this I can stand the reveal with 1500 in the sand block and not worry about scuffing the paint in the wrong direction because I have the tape on here again I'll use the crosshatch pattern this is 1500 grit sandpaper and I'm looking to remove the orange peel on a curved part like this the orange peel is not as noticeable as it is on a flat panel so it does have a tendency to sand down a lot easier it is a bit more of a difficult sand because when you're on a curved surface you always have a highlight area that there's a larger chance of going through into the color and we don't want to do that every so often we need to stop and dry it off and check our progress to see where we're at here I'm gonna lift low on the cart and examine it for any more orange peel anything that I missed and it looks really good so the next step is to go ahead and remove the orange peel from both the top and the lower edge of the door with 1500 again got to be real careful on this edge I make very small movements back and forth keep them really short and light and I'm still cross hatching I'm sending one direction and then sand in the other direction so that we won't have any tracking and this is the hardest place to get rid of any sand tracks that we might end up with so we really want to make sure that we've eliminated those and we really need to check our progress quite frequently so I'm going to stop and dry this area it's a few areas right in here that we need to stand a little bit more at all in all that's coming out really good really try and tip the block on its edge to reach those areas and so we're not over sanding anything that we've already hit with 1500 and I'm still trying to cross out even a sense it's a small area I'm still going to try and keep moving the block in different directions so we're not going to track it dry it and check progress again this area looks real smooth now check for anymore orange peel and I don't see any and that's how we need to do it in order to produce a show winning finish ok I'm going to finish this area up with 1500 grit and when we're done we'll go to 2000 2000 grit sand is the last sand on this panel before polish and again the tape is hoping to protect the rest of the panel from going over the edge of the crown of the reveal and not scuffing the rest of the panel same process cross-hatching and don't sand in one place let's move it back and forth change direction and keep a good idea about how long you've spent sanding a particular area so that you've just done it thoroughly enough to remove the 1500 grit sand scratches it's easy to find out if you've sanded with mm enough because when you start polishing if you end up with a lot of short straight scratches they can be difficult to take out with a polisher so it's best just to go back in and color sand that with a little bit more mm and then polish it again this is really a very fine grit of sandpaper you can't even feel it on your fingers but it does make a difference in the time savings in polishing I'm gonna go ahead and dry this off and check our progress I'm just checking to see at this point with a 2000 grit scratch is just the pattern that I've set up because I can see just a little bit of difference between the 2,000 grit scratches and the 1500 before it it's very faint but if you look for you can find that and as long as I have the different sand pattern then I've have sanded it enough and I can move on to the next area and finish that up so I'll move back to this reveal and finish up across the top of that keep the surface that you're sounding nice and wet so that the sandpaper won't drag across it you actually want it to float just a little bit and again not much pressure at all actually less pressure than doing a flat panel so we don't want to stand too much on those highlight lines so you'll go through into the basically we don't want to break through the clear okay I'll check progress again dry this off okay the sand pattern looks consistent all in mm and I can remove the tape and sand the panel with 2,000 grit I'm going to apply a little bit of protective masking tape on the reveal so that when I say I'm with mm I don't scuff the reveal and properly now sand the panel with 2,000 grit again using the same cross hatching again I'm gonna be very careful about the edge this is the last sand before polish and I don't want to cut through the clear and as I work against the reveal again I want to make sure that I crosshatch and not sand parallel to the reveal you don't want any sand tracking here I'm using very light pressure I'm just want to remove the 1500 grit sand scratches there is a little variation in the pattern when you dry it between the two thousand and fifteen hundred sand scratches but you really have to be careful and look for it especially when you're first starting out okay I'll go ahead and dry this off and check progress [Music] okay that looks real girl and we should be ready to start polishing when working with the more mechanized buffing equipment I always like to use a dust mask and safety goggles the dust masks help to protect against the dust that is raised from the power polisher and the safety goggles will also help against any extra splatter from the compound as it's whipped up by the machine which we normally turn at about 900 to 1,000 rpm when we're rubbing with the first process the 3m rubbing compound again a good masking tape on the reveal to help protect it from the buffer because the least amount of abrasion on a delicate portion of the panel like that will help keep the Clerc coat on there so that we won't go through but I can run right up next to it and I won't take any material away from it until I'm ready to do so the goal here with the rubbing compound is to get a good first shine from a 2,000 grit sand that we did and we want to get rid of all of the sanding scratches and the goal is to just move the polisher back and forth and not put any heavy pressure on it just basically the weight of the polisher itself don't move it really fast and all have a tendency to let it ride slightly on my right-hand side you can also tip it over to the other side and that will help you work another area a little bit better but it's always good to try and just keep it close to level and not put too much downward pressure on it I'll work this until the compound is stop smearing on the panel and then I can check progress so now I'm gonna look at the panel for any straight scratches anything left over from the color sand and any pattern scratching from the wool buffing pad that I use ok I'm gonna go ahead and clean the pad right now I use a spur to do so and just run it across the pad like this and it cleans off the excess residue from the rubbing compound I'll normally clean this pad when I'm polishing and the pad won't pick up any more polish and clean the panel for me it goes from smearing it to a clean haze when it's dirty and needs to be cleaned with the spur it just smears around and won't clean up well enough the spur and the wool pad can be purchased at any auto body supply shop and I'm using a Makita variable rpm polisher it has an adjustment wheel you can go anywhere from 600 rpm to up to 3000 rpm for most polishing purposes I want to be right at about number 2 that's about nine hundred to a thousand rpm it doesn't run the Machine too fast so that it would cause a burn in the compound which we don't want to burn any of the clear coat the next thing I'm going to do is polish this section of the panel and it's getting close to the edge the polisher rotates from my view in a clockwise direction like this and when I'm polishing this panel I want to make sure that the rotation of the polisher is running off of the panel just like in the color standing that we did earlier want to make sure that this is rotating off of the panel so that it will reduce the chances of burning the edge and possibly going through the clear into the base coat because there again we're going to have to reshoot the art if we go through the clear coat so it's just a matter of making sure that the rotation is going off of the panel and I will actually hold the buffer add a little bit of an angle to help facilitate that and when the buffer wheel comes around that it's not coming back on to the panel on its rotation back around to the top again okay I'm gonna stop and check a progress you can see in the center of the panel it's coming up real nice I see one really good-sized color sand scratch which I'm going to have to continue to go after with the rubbing compound and then the edge will also need some more work too but I'm a lot more careful on the edges of the panel so that usually takes a little bit longer and again while polishing I want to make sure that we keep moving the polisher don't stop in one position and keep the RPMs down around a thousand we don't want it spinning so fast that it's gonna catch on every edge that we come up again [Music] just about God all the compound up it's not smearing anymore we're seeing a little bit more of a gloss in the paint and just the haze left over from the wool pad and we are getting closer to the edges at this point and they're glossing up too but again we don't want to stay on those edges very long because they will burn okay we'll stop and check progress and again I'm gonna look low on the panel and see how it's glossing up it's looking a lot like glass which is what we want to see and I could still see it's hard to believe that there's a sand scratch left here the rest of the panel is coming along really good but we've got one sand scratch right here probably left over from a 1,500 sand and it's starting to melt out with the compound we're gonna run the buffer on it again and melt it out even further until it's gone we'll check progress again it's still there a lot fainter but it is coming out it's really important to check quite frequently so we go just far enough to melt it out and no further so we can keep as much clear on the panel as possible that scratch is gone so we'll move on to the rest of the panel and keep watching for those as they pop up so we can get rid of them as well [Music] [Applause] again as I get closer to the edge of the panel and keeping it light and making sure the wheel is going off of the panel rather than pressure being applied on to the panel I'm going to go ahead and finish this panel up with the rubbing compound again I'm watching my door edge and I'm also watching the reveal where I have the tape and I need to get down into the crease right at the edge of the tape and make sure that that gets polished up as well there'll be some hand sanding to be done right in the crease area as I push the reveal I'll change the angle of the polisher from a flat position to a little bit more angle to get down into the crease I'll also at the same time lightening my pressure and I don't ever put more pressure on the panel with the polisher that the weight of the polisher alone and again I don't polish it one place they continue to move back and forth and I can see the pattern of the compound as it's working the panel and polishing it up and I can see as it disappears and that's about the time to stop so that I don't burn the panel with compound it can heat up and actually burn the clear a little bit and we don't want that to happen this area is where it's important to keep the RPMs down and that about a nine hundred to a thousand to work around the hinge or other protrusion the buffer wheel can actually catch it and you can damage the cops whitey hood so we need to be real careful around here I'll angle it up a little bit to try and get closer to the base of the hinge to reduce the amount of time it takes to pan polish that area that there will be some because we cannot get the polish or all that innovation and so singes is some of the hardest things to polish around for the sixth straight up several inches from the panel especially the top because we're right at the edge of the door okay I'm gonna go ahead and blow the dust off so I can apply some tape to protect the upper part of the reveal again this tape will help protect the upper part of the reveal the highlight line so that we won't polish through it we want to keep as much clear on the panel as possible come in here smear the rubber compound around spread it out and then start working at least other reveal and here again I've got to watch the edge of the door so don't burn the edge as I'm polishing I'm watching to make sure that I'm getting all of the compound out that there isn't any smearing left from the compound because that can also get burned and I'll burn it right into the clear and that area has to be color sanded again so I want to try and remove that rubbing compound around just as much as possible and polish the panel is even so we don't have any issues of burning the wool pad and the polish of you cause heat as it is friction against the clear and they don't want to get it too hot that's another reason to move the Polish to the back and forth and not to polish in one place the amount of compound will vary on the area that I'm working with right now I'm not gonna put down a lot of compounds because at this angle or the polisher they'll just sling it off and I'll get make a really big mess yeah I want to try and keep things just as neat as I possibly pad either put a little bit more down on the middle of a panel and before you start polishing I always try and smear it around a little bit so it doesn't just go flying off into space tomorrow you only need enough to polish for about 20 or 30 seconds at a time much longer and it will have a tendency to burn the clear and on this edge at this angle I basically just tickle the panel with the polisher so that I can get it to sign up for me enough so I don't have to spend a lot of time hand rubbing it but it's an area that I'm gonna have to rub by hand before it's completed okay I've removed the tape from the reveal and I'm ready to go ahead and polish the reveal with the buffer and we do that just at the very last here so that we can protect the reveal and not get any extra buffing on it so that we don't break through the clear so it's done a little bit separately and after the panel is done so I'll go ahead and start the polishing process and once again I keep the pressure the down pressure very light even lighter than the machine so I'm really holding it up off of here and I'm gonna polish it very lightly I'll change the angle of the polisher that meets the panel to better polish it and make sure that it keeps of extra weight off of the critical points which are the highlights pull from the bottom and the top of the reveal there's something that we've been very careful of cysts assorted color sanding with a thousand bit because it's the clear gets too thin you can break through the cleaner into the base coat color at any time in the process I'll go ahead and stop and we'll check progress again I'll look at it from a low angle to check the reflection that I'm getting that looks real good and I don't really see much the way the sand scratches so I'll move further back on the door and continue polishing again I'll change the angle of the polisher as it relates to the comet so I can get out to the edge and back through the middle and I'm also being very careful of the highlight areas here very light pressure I'm go ahead and check progress it's important to check the progress quite frequently on this to make sure that we don't go overboard and take too much material out we just want to get rid of the sand scratches and that part looks good too so the next thing we'll be doing is a little bit of hand polishing to get the area's polished up that it could not reach with the buffer and we'll be ready for the next polished step now we're going to do a little bit of hand polishing around the hinge or it's so difficult to polish just need a little bit of compound I'll work in a circular motion and I put pretty good pressure on this it's difficult to bring up quickly I'll work an area that's maybe about one inch by two inches at a time and I'll just go back and forth working in a circle and I'll keep at it again just like the polisher until the compound has worked until it stopped smearing and it's dispersed enough to where you can see how much you've glossed up the edge here I'll take the towel and I'll wipe up any excess material and we'll check our progress again I'll sight down that kind of low and it looks like there's still some sand scratches in there so we'll do it again this can be real tedious you can spending as much time hand sanding the hard-to-reach areas as you can polish in the whole panel we'll just repeat the process until we've melted the scratches out of the panel we don't want to leave any dull spots on the panel at all a lot of times these hard-to-reach areas are right on the edge and around hinges such as this I wanna make sure those are all glossed up so we don't have to do it when the cars all together okay the compound is starting to thin out stop smearing as much give it a little bit more go ahead and check out progress that looks quite a bit better already to move on around the corner of the hinge this is one of the processes that separate a good polish job from a great one and we're really trying to get a good show finish here I want to get to every corner we possibly can and get it to shine up such a small area I can also reverse the direction in which I polish it and that's to keep the polishing process as smooth as possible the goal is to really just get those sand scratches out doing it by hand that's about all you can do want to gloss up really good don't want to leave any scratches behind it there are smaller mechanised polishers but they still will not get completely into a corner and the smaller polishes usually turn faster they're not as easily adjusted and we have a chance there of burning the compound a little bit more a lot of times what will happen when you have something turning fast near the masking tape it will pull compound off of the masking tape and burn it into the clear and then we have to go in and color stay on that area some more and it's already difficult to bring up then I found it's just as easy to polish it up by hand at that point it looks like that's coming along pretty good the creases of the reveals are really hard to get to so they always require some hand polishing and I'll usually wad up the cloth a little bit and then try and really get down into the crease get that area to shine up it's also really important to make sure that we've color sanded fully in there with the 1500 and 2000 but not the thousand grit so that we can polish these scratches up without taking a lot of extra time when you go back and forth show you a little bit here it leaves these streaks right now they're just streaks in the compound but pretty soon they'll become little fine scratches in the clear and they won't come out unless you color sand it and they're very easily picked up by reflections from the Sun or any kind of light so they're really noticeable be surprised how noticeable they would be now the polish is starting to dissipate and I'll go ahead and wipe that dry coming along good we're gonna need to go in and rub a little bit more way down in the crease to bring up that shine and again I continue to try and work in circles which is very similar to the cross-hatching pretty difficult to crosshatch in a such a small area so I'll work in the circles and I'll really try and put a lot on the cloth right into the crease this process needs to be repeated as much as necessary in order to get the clear to shine up but the results are worth it okay that's looking pretty good okay once the first pass of the Polish is done I'll go ahead and blow off the leftover polish that'll wipe down the panel so that we're ready for the phone polish you don't want to leave any of the heavy polish on the door so we can get a nice clean finish we'll come in and we'll dry the door up and we'll be ready for the next step even when I'm washing the panel I still try and work in circles so that I don't cause any very fine scratches even when just wiping it down okay we're ready for a foam glaze which should bring it up to near completion okay I'm gonna switch from the wool pad to a foam pad now and when I'm done with the wool pad I'll remove it and the makita has a little stop button and you can unscrew the pad our wool pad is a double-sided pad and at this point I will go in and wash this with water thoroughly I'll put it back on the buffer and I will put the spur to it while it's moving and completely clean it and dry it out at that point it's ready to use the next time for the final polish it's a real good idea to use a foam polishing pad these need to be centered as best as possible so they don't oscillate and again I bring it down tight this uses a velcro backing and again this is a 3m product here and we just put it on even and we're ready to start polishing with the foam pad the speed is the same as the wool pad and that is about 900 to 1,000 rpms the process is very close to the same as the first pass through we use mother's swirl remover to get to the next step smear it around with a foam will work back at four and immediately I could see the haze left over from the wool pad disappear and I'll really bring up the shine of the panel this process usually does not take as long as the wool pad as we're just trying to get rid of the page left over from the wool pad because it's a lot heavier compound and much more abrasive and once the swirl remover is dissipated well enough I'll stop and we'll apply it again take another look and see if I can find any other sand scratches that were missed from the wool pad and I really don't see any so I could continue polishing with the foam here I'm real careful on the reveal the foam pad is not nearly as abrasive as the wool pad would be sure where your eye and mouth protection I could post up to the reveal but again I don't keep it in one place I am continually moving it back and forth just like the wool pad but the masking tape is not needed at this stage it's a lot less aggressive and as long as you are very conscious about writing up on the reveal keeping that down to a minimum you should be just fine we don't need to put a lot of the swirl remover polish down as it spreads itself out real well as it polishing the panel and I'll use the same technique because I work closer to the edge of the door and again if I keep the weight and pressure off of the polisher I could ride right up to the edge without positive Burnsville but we really have to be cautious because even with the foam pad you could touch an edge and they don't want to do that okay I'll go ahead and stop and check the progress okay the haze is disappearing pretty good I'll go ahead and work towards the back of the door be very careful not to back off of the door edge I'll have to come around and catch that from the opposite side but I can get the middle portion of the door to get a better finish with the foam polishing pad when we keep the polisher parallel with the panel that we're working on and I'll clean the panel right out okay we'll check progress I'm gonna go ahead and continue down the door and I'm walking up to the back side of the door here this again I want to be careful and not light up on to it so the buffer won't catch the hairs which could damage the pose I also want to be careful of any compound that has dried on the surface I have a little bit over by the edge of the door just above the slower hinge and I don't want to keep riding over the top of it because that can burn the quill and we'd have to color stand it and polish it again but we can wipe it off with water and I'll go ahead and right now a little thing like this can really ruin the polish job so we'll take it out with a little bit of water and we'll put on some more compound and continue our polish work not to ride right on that edge then you can see that the Dryad compound is completely gone and then we haven't burned the clear whether to discontinue on I'll lift up slightly and put a little bit more pressure on the inside edge of the buffer towards the middle of the door and keep it very light on the edges of the door so I don't burn the clear and I'll continue to move the polisher around so that we don't burn the player it's really important to check the progress is frequently as possible especially when you're just starting out so you can see how it's polishing up that you're not burning the compound into the clear or catching edges this part of the panel looks real good I'll go ahead and move towards the back and I want the polisher to be rotating off the edge of the panel and not on to it I want it to go away and this like watching with sandpaper I can also change direction with the polisher in some cases they took progress I'm gonna move around to the back edge of the door now and change my angle a little bit with the polisher again I've got two edges to worry about the bottom of the door in the back edge of the door so I'm keeping my pressure is very light and then making sure that I'm overlapping into the rest of the panel a little bit and that ensures a uniform finish keep working the compound until it's dissipating and at that point where I want to stop and check our progress I don't see any haziness we're ready to move up the door towards the reveal changing the angle of a Polish or a little bit to get into the bottom of the reveal and help to get rid of the haze down in there and then I'll change it again a little bit as I get to the back edge of the door so similar to the area where we have two corners to work with have to be very careful about the reveal the door heads at the same time I'll write up on top of it a little bit and people working my way up the door very light pressure at this point when I'm writing a little bit on the right side of the buffer and bringing it down on the other side of the reveal and it looks like the compound is dissipated and I'll need to stop and apply some water just smear this around a little bit so it won't spray again and taking very light pressure on that reveal and the back edge of the door and change my angle and pressure they move across the panel so right now very light on the edge little heavier in here again no more than the weight of the polishing and I'll walk it down the radius and again I'm keeping a very light here I just want to get rid of the haze left over from the wool pad I'll come back as far as they can and I want to go off the back side of the door that could cause a burn in the Claire and again we're not to repaint we don't want okay let's check progress okay I'm gonna work up at the front of the door in the reveal and hinge area don't use a lot of compound at this point because it has a tendency to spray out I'll smear it around a little bit getting very light pressure and I want to catch an edge with the polisher very light pressure basically tickling the panel that's cleaning the haze off real good you go around radius here very lightly this is normally the wrong direction but if I stay off the edge of the door it shouldn't have any problems catching an edge or burning the edge of the boil just need to stay back and if I have to hand polish that area we can completely be out okay we'll check progress okay I'll make a pass across the top of the door where it's sitting vertical here I'm gonna go ahead and do the side the vertical portion of the door at this point just a little bit of compound smear it around a little bit again really light pressure remove the compound around so it doesn't dry in one spot and bring up the shine of the panel this close to the edge is safely possible looks like we're ready to check father it's like the haze is gone I'm gonna go ahead and do right behind this little feral there's very light pressure and you've got to watch the edges that live in the haze yes lightly touching it at this point really like okay let's check Barger is pretty well gone I've got a good gloss so the next step would be to remove what's left of the masking the hinges in the ferrule clean the panel once again and do a foam wash with it and that'll take off any haze that's left even careful not to put a fingernail onto the paint at this point because it is really glossy and fingernail is hard enough to put a little scratch in the paint go ahead and remove the tape on the hinges as well again carefully try not to get my fingernails on it or that particular go ahead and remove the upper hinge masking and we don't have to color sand the hinges and other very round objects you could see just how crowned these parts are the paint flows real well off of these parts and it never needs to be color sanded it's real glossy just from the beginning and it would be really difficult to get in and color sand and polish the whole hinge now we're ready to go ahead and clean the panel one more time and then finish up with our final finish color sanding cutting and buffing is a step by step process and between each process we go in and wash the part down before we go to the next series of steps wash the door with water between each step to remove any leftover residue from the previous step and then again I'll just wipe it in circles and not go in a straight line at each step of the way it becomes more and more critical not to reintroduce scratches into the panel for the final step we're going to use mothers Showtime instant detailer and we're going to apply it with this white foam pad and we just put a little bit on and again work in circles and I'll work about twenty-five to thirty percent of the door at one time until it starts to dry and that helps to remove what is left over of the residue and any of the other compounds that we've had on there and it takes care of the streaking that may have been left as well I'll go ahead and dry this with the gray foam pad these are available at most any Auto Body Supply stores what I like about this so much is that they do not scratch the panel at all they don't even put a fine my new scratch in them this ready is the part for assembly that way I know it's clean enough to be installed on the car again they keep a circular motion I don't go in a straight line and I'll overlap where I had cleaned on the other part of the panel make sure that I get everything covered I can right up over the reveal or the hinges at this point these foam pads are so soft they won't they won't even scratch it won't even scratch the clear it's much like wax in a car we'll do this step just before the wax to make sure that the panel is as clean as we can possibly get it another important thing to do when you are working color sanding and polishing is to work in a clean area not around a lot of grinding equipment a lot of airborne particles can end up landing on your panel and ruin the face quite easily a lot of what has to do with great finish is the gloss and the depth of the paint and most of that's due to a good clear coat and also a good color choice and that it is as glass-like as it can possibly be and consistent throughout you want it to be slick on the edges of a panel as you do in the middle it's really important you just put a little bit on a couple little squirts and that really takes it a long way don't have to apply a lot of the instant detailer if you want it to start to dry and dissipate while you're polishing it and that's what helps take care of the residue and the streaks left over from the last operation dry this up and you should just about have it okay this part is ready to install on the car hi I'm franc roll I've been a painter since 1982 I'd like to show you some of my techniques for coasts and rubbing on a light-colored panel I'm also going to show you how to take care of some problems like runs orange peel and the occasional dust bag so why don't we get started here's a run in your clear coat common mistake easily taken care of kind of intimidating for some people happens to all of us also we have orange peel that we have to deal with here let's start sanding and see what we can do in it first thing we're gonna do is take a razor blade standard razor blade and plane or scrape the top of the run off you'll see it to show up real close what this is doing is it's cutting down the top of the run down closer to the plane of the rest of the paint and now you can see where we're about to the same level as the rest of the paint this might take a few minutes to do a very steady and very careful hand you can work it out you can see this run in there as it's starting to go away a couple different angles there you go runs gone now you can see we've got a speck of dust that gets in the clear coat on a single stage paint job with metallic that's a little bit harder to repair in clear coat it's pretty easy to remedy you just take a razor blade once again a couple scrapes over it dust is gone you're not really affecting the base coat because you've got clear coat protection over the top of it as long as we're doing is planing and taking off that's top of that surface next step what I like to do a process that I found it worked very well for me in a light panel is to grab dry guide coats a 3m product I found that this works very well for me just a little shake on it it's a little trick to doing this it'll stay on any area that you've sanded so in order to get it on any other areas just simply take a small scotch brite give it a little scuff and Start Guide coating on it then you're ready to start sanding what I'm using here is a piece of a 3m pad I think it's a seven four four seven 3m scotch brite pad they make them in red and gray the red is a little bit coarser the gray is just a finer cut so that you can just barely rough the surface without really creating any kind of sand marks next I'll take the 3m guide coat give it a little shake rub it on the panel you can see how that guide coat stays right on there you can still see the areas that I planed with the razor blade a handy thing about using a dry guide coat is you can put it where you want it when you're using a spray guide coat or anything like that you're pretty much at the mercy of the guide coat it's gonna spray everywhere you where you don't want it so this is real handy in that aspect mix will just start sanding on it you'll see how this orange peel in here starts to fade away we might have to sand it and guide coat it a couple times and then you'll see what the finished product is their first step I do take your standard paper dip it in reason for that does it softened up the back of the paper a little bit it folds over your block nice and easy get it wet take spray bottle get your panel wet paper wet you'll see real quickly here the guide coat starts to disappear it's real important to keep the panel wet as you can you want to carry that dirt and all the sanding everything that comes off the block you want to carry it down the panel you don't want to keep using the same water and keep everything clogging up your paper so it's real important to keep it as wet as you can you can see a little bit of the orange peel we shot in this panel for demonstration purposes this is a common thing that happens when you're painting a little bit too dry in your application and here's your fix for it you can make the worst paint job look really nice it's a little bit of sanding and polishing just like guide coat on a primered panel guide coat works exactly the same way on clear coat when the guide coat goes away you're ready to go to your next grit of sandpaper what I'm doing here is cross-hatching the panel it's the way you keep your panel as flat as you can across in one direction crossing the other direction you see the guide coat start going away right there this is 800 grit paper I use that for our first cut to knock the orange peel on any dirt specks and he runs any problem stuff like that we guide coat and then start out with a finer paper after that right now I'll finish the rest of the panel up new block is a durable ock really handy a little bit bigger use the same paper just hold it over it get a little bit larger area at a time it conforms a little better to the panel they explain what guy code is sits on the top surface of the painted area as you sand it down it leaves the guide coat in the lower areas of it so what I'm doing is taking down the highs bring him down to all the lows when the guide code disappears I know I've got that level exactly at the same as the rest of the paintwork as you can see it's very important to keep the panel wet keep everything running off I work from the top to the bottom so everything's washing off as I go this way I can see where I've been and where I've got to go what you want to do is stay away from these edges down here you can see there's a small reveal down here you notice I'm staying away from that edge a little bit with this course of paper is 800 you're gonna take the top of that clear coat off right there three passes it's gone you're repainting you can see most of the guide boats gone now so I'm not gonna try to take it all the way down with 800 because then I'll be removing too much material I know I've got a little bit left to go here so I'm gonna switch up to a finer paper and then remove the rest of it first I'll be drying it off and reapplying guide coat first thing I'm gonna do is dry the panel back up so we can apply the dry guide coat just wipe off the excess water you can see we've got the panel dry take my dry guide coat again you can see it applies a little bit harder a little bit darker this time which is good because we're taking out a finer peel and finer sand scratches from the 800 grit ultimately we want to end up with about a 2,000 grit and then we'll be ready to polish next thing thousand grit paper dip it hit the backing wet a little conform around your block you go on to create any hard edges with it what I've done here is applied the guide coat again if you notice with the 800 I didn't sand down in here I didn't stand near the top so I want to leave it so that I can sneak up on it slowly with the finer grit paper so that it doesn't actually we won't leave we'll leave enough material there so when we get to rubbing on it we won't be burning through on those edges cuz it's a lot easier burn through on an edge here or an edge here so I want to leave as much material up here as I possibly can in the flats it's a little easier so we can get a little more aggressive in there I'll start to sand with thousand grit now mind you keep the block wet keep the panel wet it's the most important thing you can see the guide poop comes off a lot easier now you can just see the light imperfections still in there I'm gonna work up to the top keeping it wet all the time you can see that guide coats starting to come off up in here you can see the peels disappearing say I like to work top to bottom so that all the water is draining down it's preference you get in there crosshatch it so the panel stays with strategists straight as you can I'm going to switch over to a dura block here so it can conform to the shape a little bit more always make sure your block is clean but you don't want to do is pick up a piece of dust piece of sand dirt anything in there you put it on the panel and you start rubbing you just destroyed your panels the most important thing is keep it as clean as possible you see the pattern that I'm standing here I'm still cross-hatching one side one angle than the other most important thing when you're blocking you don't want to turn your block you don't want to tip it so you're just using the center of the block you'll be taking out the center of the panel you want to keep your block as straight and as flat as you can in the panel so that you're not edging up now when you get down into a smaller Cove like this got to take your time sometimes it takes very slow and deliberate movements you just watch the Geico come off as you go you can literally see it go away and see where it's starting to go away there what I'm trying to do is sand up off of this edge so that I don't take the very tip or the very peak of that edge off leave us with no clear coat to polish there's a common thing that happens a lot of times when that happens right there just take the paper and start over you'll have wrinkles in the paper there those wrinkles are right up on the panel and that'll create sand scratches deeper marks than what the paper is actually actually capable of doing I don't know if you can see how that's wrinkled air but that one's done turn around so I have a better angle at the panel whatever you get near an edge like this what you want to do is make sure your block stays as flat as possible on the panel run the block off the panel whatever you tip up on the edge and you go up trying to get around the corner you're gonna take all that clear coat off that edge you'll have enough in the buff again and you'll be repaying it again so be real careful run the block straight out and off the panel you can see in the area we're working right now we've got what's the guide cut off of there we've worked it right down to the edge right here we're starting to work it off the edge what I'm gonna do now is dry it off and guide coat it again so we can start over with our next screwed of paper you know what I'm gonna do is dry the panel off gives much water as we can so we can fly dry guide coat again what I've done here is basically sanded the body of the panel now I need to get into the corners I need to use a smaller block once again I'm gonna scuff the panel back over here in the corner so the guide coat will stay on the panel you notice I'm working one area at a time and for demonstration purposes we're just gonna work one part of the panel so we can show you the difference in what it is here at Steve's we're trying to achieve it perfectly flat and show-quality paint work you're not always gonna get that with OEM paint factory paint jobs usually come very peely it's more of a technique of spraying to duplicate that and you can color sand and buff a little bit but you don't want to do it too much or you're gonna lose that original factory finish here we're looking for a perfect show quality work what I'm doing here go into a smaller dura block get it wet get your water I've gone to a smaller block so I can work it around the corner and work into these small areas here this is that piece of paper that wrinkled up on me just tear the wrinkle up it's still good for a small block going to waste too much paper now this part here I've got a crown that's coming around this corner here with a panel for flat here we've got a crown here so what I'm gonna do is follow the block around the crown at this angle you can see it very quickly takes off that guide coat it's important to go slow and watch the panel watch the guide foot as you're going once that guide coats gone you're done there's no sense in sanding anymore because basically in no-man's land then you don't know where you've sanded what you've sanded you can see as I talked earlier about going off the edge of the panel you don't want to tip your block I'm gonna go off the edge of the panel's just continue to easily go off the panel pulling the block away see how that guide go comes right off right there there's one technique that I learned was showed me by an old body man years ago he called it blending and it seemed to work good for me about the last 20 years when you're working in a crown like this into another panel works well you take and rotate the block a little bit what it does is it just kind of blends that whole area in all at one time without really cross hatching or are you leaving any kind of tracks you just kind of work that area and you can see the guide go disappearing right there in front of you doesn't really matter the direction that you're going with the block as long as you keep it smooth and one of the key things a blocking is let the block do the work don't try to force the panel if you're pushing on the block or you're forcing on the panel you're gonna create the panel to the bow all you're gonna do is create more of a mess the key thing to do with it is let the block do the work if you notice I'm barely holding the block and I'm allowing the block and allowing the paper to cut and I find the good thing about sanding in circles is your arm doesn't get tired of doing this so it's a little bit easier I mean when I'm getting older now now I need to get down on this corner here you can still see the guide coat hanging out there let me switch upside so I can get a better shot at it you see it just about gone right there maybe you got it pretty much all the guide coats gone a little more to work in the edge right there I got to fill up with water continue going there's another way of doing this something we used to do years ago was to run a water hose on the panel now the guys at dura block you've designed a new product and this works great you just stick it on the car get your water running on there it gives clean water delivered to the panel all the time you don't have to keep squirting a lot less work really nice to use I'm not an area where I can use this right now or I'd surely have it on going it saved me a lot of squirting with a squirt bottle great new product a durable up [Music] you notice I'm keeping the block on the crown I'm keeping the block straight with the clown not turning it so I can keep the panel straight as I can work the crown over as far as you can switch to this side you see that panels cut 1000 grit now what I'll do is I'll dry it guide coat it again and then we'll go to a finer paper and get ready for some polishing next thing I want to do is work this edge here you can see I've got a little bit of orange peel still in there so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna scuff this lower section again or for the first time down below the edge look at that you can see another piece of dust in the panel before I get too carried away I'll take a razor blade and I'll plane that one off right there you find stuff like that all the time get a razor blade open it up show you real quick how to do that one more time just take it like a plane just work it right over that little piece of dust this way I know I'm not gonna take a whole large area down trying to sand that outstanding whole surrounding area I just take the top of that one little piece off right there what I'm gonna do now is apply a little more of the dry guide coat down over that edge so I can see right over that edges while I'm at it I'll just apply some up here so I can go to my next grit of sandpaper so the next grit I'm gonna use on this side of the panel because I've already mm I'll go to 1,500 right now I just want to knock this edge down with a little piece of thousand grit paper same piece side of the using earlier clean the block clean your hands get the panel real wet what you want to do the same as you're working off an edge right here you want to work off that edge up working off that edge don't want to tip the block over I don't want to take the top of the clear coat off the edge right there there we go again not wrinkled too bad still use it you can see as I'm working that edge you'll see it start to get tight and you'll see the line start to straighten out up there guide Kosair no guide coat you can tell exactly where your line is and you can tell exactly how straight your line is before you ever start rubbing it so you know you still retain your nice straight edges and everything you're looking for just seeing a little more here you can see that edge show up really easy there right now I'm pulling the block up off the paper off the edge pay very little pressure let the block do the work you can see it's starting to come up right there a little low right there little higher right there you're getting a nice crisp clean line there come back here off the edge of the panel I want to tip the block take all my clear coat off just pull that right up you literally see the line pull them right up to where it needs to be nice straight line there now what I can do is switch up to 1500 grit paper it'll start sanding up in here again 1500 good paper dip it get it wet so it conforms the block little easier oh you can make sure it's clean once again I'll just repeat the process with 1500 you see it doesn't take long what I'll do is I'll stand this panel one more time 1500 to reduce the size of the scratches and the reason for going to finer and finer grits is the smaller the scratch the easier it polishes out the less work you got to do with the buffer still cross-hatching very important you notice I put a lot of water on there just keep all that running off as much as you can you can block well lubricated so that just the papers cutting the panel this is another time where that Bureau block sprayer would really be handy just keep coming back you notice the blocks coming back you can see them guide coat staying here you got a line this panel starts to roll over right there so I'm keeping the block straight and flat that's where my guide go disappears that's when I'll switch up and go back around this way so now go back down to that edge you'd still see a little bit of orange peel in there but now I'm down to a fine enough grit where I feel comfortable taking the rest of it out without sanding through that edge down there see it hopefully you can see that on camera the little black spots in there it doesn't take much sanding at all we switch sides still run on the block off just like we were earlier to make sure I don't take the edge of that clear off still get a pretty good idea how crisp the line is going through there some around here sure the paper is clean panel clean come back up around that edge again I'm gonna do is get a little smaller girl block it'll be easier to handle it's gonna tear the paper to size of the block so I can get around this corner a little bit easier handle basically the same process repeat it over and over the object is to get the scratches as small as you possibly can I'm gonna go into blending that little Aryan the other guide boats coming off [Music] [Music] and see how important it is to keep the panel wet and clean you can't see what you're doing got a little bit of guide boat left there so they're just coming off the edge same way same technique you can see we've got it sanded top and bottom we've got a little bit of guide coat down in the edge now's the time where you can come over that just until it disappears I want to leave as much clear coat on that edge as you possibly can what happens is the buffer wheel rides up on that edge and it'll start to take that clear off really fast and it's still cross hatching over that you can see there's still a little bit of dark in here good area to show you so work that edge up wet come back on it the more that add just a little bit last step in it wipe it down see we came up with it's right off that's when you want to look at it look at it real good you got to put my glasses on now make sure we don't have any more guide coach Sean I can still see I've got a little bit of guide code down here what I'll do is just repeat the process a little bit longer until that guide coat disappears but for all practical purposes it's about ready to rub right now next step in the process some 3m extra cut compound here throw a little dab on there and start polishing with our wool pad wool pads a little bit coarser than a foam pad you cut the found pan a little faster and we'll move up to our foam pad and go to a polish on there what I like to do is work from one side of the panel over that way it's the rotation of pad it's throwing all this stuff everything it's dry it's getting thrown on the backside of the panel so as you work across the panel you're working into a clean area every time you go we'll start over in the corner going to do is get your speed down [Music] you see it shine come right back up kind of scary when you got it all sanded and now you can't bring it right back up to where it was before he started [Music] same processes sanding the panel you take the rotation of the pad you want to work off the edge of the panel if you tip the panel where you're cutting in you're gonna take all the clear off the edge again so I always try to work the edge of the bumper so I'm working off the edge that way I'm not rolling this side of the pad up and taking the corner to clear off a little working about a 12-inch square at a time back and forth [Music] [Applause] [Applause] I'm going to tip in to that Cove and work the edge of the wheel off [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] you want to work the compound around the whole area keep it as clean as you possibly can you could see a little bit of compound still on there you've got that kind of a preliminary cut there got the big scratches out got the thousand fifteen hundred scratches out of there get a good look at it make sure all your sand scratches are out I'll come back into this area same process you want to work the pad you want to work up off this edge so you're not pulling the backside of the pad off and pulling the clear off the edge we go over the panel one more time show you some techniques of buffing here so I'd like to go look at the panel kind of in a box pattern you got a panel it's basically cut ready for polishing what I'm going to do now is show you an example of polished polished surface to unpause I'm just going to tape anything sand that down a little bit right there I'll polish this side of it so you can see the difference between a rock paint and the polished finish to what we're trying to achieve another technique of polishing is bringing the speed up on the buffer what you want to do is create a little more heat in a panel it's called burnishing the panel what it does is it decreases the amount of scratches by heating the panel and heating the material and then it turns in a little bit smoother surface a little bit easier for polish pans fonepad you'll be able to see the difference in the polish just in the burnishing here a great technique on OEM finishes or you can't do our heavy cutting buff you got fresh paint you're trying to repair an area leave a little more of the peel in it so we have to retain that OEM type look here we just use it to really get that high polish a little little tricky you want to be real careful you don't catch an edge stay in the middle of a panel the buffer I'm using here today is a Makita buffer it has variable speeds it allows me to turn up the speed down just by twisting this knob it's pretty handy and get to it with your thumb as you're going I normally buff around 15 to 2,000 rpms kind of gives you a little indicator here and a little dial so you know where you're at when I was buffing it for a burnishing I'll run the speed all the way up as fast as I can get it to go just be very careful with that you could destroy a panel really quickly just make sure when you purchase a buffer you get one that's variable speed it's pretty important it'll make your job a lot easier we're doing now is just pull the pad off its a Velcro pad change it out this is a 3m perfected foam polishing pad I'm gonna give you the label there works real good for polishing Center it up the next step in the process is Foam polishing glaze apply a little bit on there and work it in gonna spread it out a little bit before you start going [Music] he's a little bit slower speed kind of get it spread out on the panel I'll turn it up a little bit polish that in [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] trying to do is get your kill light or get something where you can sight in the panel look through the panel look at it as close you can see if there's anything you've missed in it just wipe it down there's a Polish panel the next step would be carnuba wax and hand polishing the wax will decrease the scratch is that much more giving it that much more luster do is pull our tape here show you the difference between a polish panel and unpolished hey have it quite dramatic the most important thing I can leave you with here today is to be patient and take your time and you'll be sure and master the techniques that we've taught you here today if you ever in Portland Oregon be sure and stop by Steve's auto restorations for a shop tour or check us out on the website and thanks for watching [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music]

Channel: PHARRAWAY

Views: 431,944

Rating: 4.5597014 out of 5

Keywords: how to repair clear coat, auto painting, LucastheSpider, Funny, Family Entertainment, Pets, SATAJET, IWATA, DEVILBISS, DIY, painting for beginners, Will Smith, Devilbiss DV1, CLEAR COAT, TRENDING, Don Pepe, 350z, BoxChevy

Id: F4IpZ_NF_mQ

Length: 110min 33sec (6633 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 25 2019