Painting your Car with Spray Paint!

[Music] what's going on guys and welcome back to paint society uncut we have our honda civic project here and we have this project here because we're going to be addressing you know common paint issues uh guys listen this car is 17 years old and today we're going to be using some rattle cans to go ahead and put a finish on here that will make this look a lot better we understand it won't be perfect but uh for you know the average do it yourself or without any type of uh you know heavy equipment i'm gonna show you a couple tricks along the way to get this looking halfway decent so it's been a while since we used a roll-on primer and i did have some areas that were sanded down to bare metal and once the car sat outside for a month it uh you know got a little rusted so we're gonna fix that before we start to uh paint it yeah so all i'm really gonna do is i'm gonna use some 400 grit and i have a little hand pad here and we're just trying to get the rust out of the little areas here um like i said guys this project is not gonna be your certified paint repair this is a home garage that's why we have it here we're trying to make my uh this car just look better so i find that 400 grit is just what you need to take out those little rust areas now this video is primarily you know just to show you how to do the painting now this existing uh primer is a urethane primer that we rolled on you can check out the video here and uh you know it's a pretty good primer but i did have some sand through so you know that's what i'm addressing right now and i'll show you how to take care of that bare metal area before we paint i'm going to mask it up you can go to advanced auto and get an inch and a quarter i like yellow masking tape it works pretty good and we'll just go around all our edges then we went ahead and put it into the tape thing just makes it easier even for around the house we're not going crazy with the masking we're just masking off the panels we don't want there to be paint on this car is definitely seen better days but you know it's a pretty cool uh project to have because it's got a lot of common uh paint problems on it right um that a lot of you guys might have on your own vehicle or let's say you're trying to make a flip or something and you want to kind of make a car look better you know gain a couple extra bucks uh you know this can be an option as well you know you're not going to get the perfect finish but it's going to look better you know that's what we're going for what i like about this project is there's not a whole lot of real expectations we're just going along with it and seeing what happens we're testing different products different equipment on it and the mask off under here we'll just go ahead and back mask it this is what we call back masking but a mask this fender up probably take about maybe 10 minutes to take it off it'll probably take about a half hour between taking the bumper and everything else off and risk uh ruining something yeah so for the uh plastic i do have an automotive based plastic that means that one side is treated so it doesn't flake you don't really need it you can go to walmart or home depot lowe's and get yourself the painters plastic that would be used in the house the only downfall of that is if you're doing a lot of painting and you have a lot of time in between when you're using like a paint gun then that paint can flake off because on this plastic one side is treated so i'll put this in the description so if you want to go ahead and get that for your project it is a must-have when painting a a large amount of panels or being in a spray booth or something small like this you don't really need it and i get a razor blade to cut on all those edges it doesn't take much to cut the plastic i like to kind of pull it first that way it creates less air underneath and then just cut along the tape here okay now all we're going to do is just tape down our plastic to uh the tape that we already have there okay then you just tape along your back mask tape here get that nice and even okay and we'll finish up here at the headlight area so far it's not really hard to do i just want to give you guys the confidence you need to say hey maybe maybe i can do that job i got an older car i think i think it could look a little bit better let me let me try it out right and so the plastic doesn't move around too much i just kind of taped it underneath the car so it's tight as can be so now we're gonna go ahead to our next step so i'm gonna go ahead and we're gonna get some let's see self well it's self etching primer and how funny the metal is showing so uh yeah so we have a couple areas here that have um you know our metal showing through and self etching is going to protect that metal so it doesn't go ahead and start to rust on us again if you didn't have any sort of metal showing you could just do that 400 and then 600 and you'd be good to paint i'm going to put this on everything just to kind of give it another even surface and that way i can sand it with 600 and i'll have a smoother surface the smoother the surface uh the better the paint's going to come out without going too smooth so i wouldn't want to do more than 600 to 800 but we're gonna stop probably at 600 after we uh spray this on we're not going to go too heavy we just want to kind of cover our surface area self-etching primer is not meant to like build it's not meant to fill in any sort of like um scratches or anything like that or body work it's just meant to kind of give you a barrier mainly focusing on our areas where we had that metal and that's just it like we put on our metal areas only now the key is to not sand through it when we go to sand again so we'll go light with like a 600 and uh we'll let this flash for about a good 15 minutes and once it's dry i'll move you guys on to the next step so i'm ready to sand this and i got that same hand pad but this time i have 600 grit now you can go between 600 and 800 this is very very thin primer and i like i said i don't want to go through it again uh to bare metal this is just to protect it and i can go over it dry okay or i can go over it wet now if i'm doing it wet what the water does is it's going to go ahead and prolong the paper uh just a little bit in this case i can see that the paper is cutting it perfectly and i don't need to wet sand it uh wet sanding is more of a personal preference in my opinion although if you're doing big areas it's good to wash down the car before you paint it so all that residue can get cleaned off and you won't have it in your paint job but just feeling this it's pretty super smooth and without a smooth finish before paint you can never have a smooth finish after paint so ready to paint now a quick tip uh if you can control your environment that's great but most of us can't when we're just out in our garage so if you pick those early mornings around maybe 70 to 80 degrees if you have that in your area or the evenings your paint is going to perform much better now this is acrylic lacquer and our 2k urethane so um there has been some questions about are they compatible will they peel well this is a 17 year old car this is our project car and we've done this before in the video just above and so far so good the results have lasted a good seven months and no signs of flaking or peeling so uh we're gonna go ahead and i got one can here uh this is b92p and we're gonna put it on our panel light coat introduce the paint to the panel and then we'll go from there we'll see if one cans enough now attack rack is a good idea to have right before we paint this will remove debris and i like to tack around the whole area that way any debris that's on a plastic won't make its way to the panel and as mentioned in my other video make sure you have a towel so you can wipe that tip every few passes that way it doesn't start to spit on our panel so first coat's going on pretty smooth and it's going to be stripy don't worry about that we'll clear things up in the next few coats all right so the worst thing we can do is not allow it to dry it's been about 10 minutes and it's pretty dry we're going to run our tack rag over the surface and then we'll apply our second coat so you notice my distance is around maybe four to five inches and i work small areas the way i work small areas and the reason why i do it is they can stay wet the paint is wetter it's gonna be smoother and it dries smoother if i'm all over the place it's gonna land dry and with a clear coat when it lays on top of that is gonna be dry as well so i'll separate it in a quadrant so i'll do no more than about 8 to 10 inches of movement and i'll do different quadrants okay and i'll carry it along the whole entire fender now i got to say this is looking pretty good now you might get these little booger spots in here don't worry about those once the clear hits it you won't even be able to tell they're there so here's the second coat it's been 10 minutes now let's say your surface is totally rough it's not coming out good you can go ahead and take your 800 grit again sand the whole thing that will smooth it out and kind of start off from square one but you already have that color so you won't need as many coats we're gonna go ahead here with one more coat and check it and i think it should be good the third coat is dry now i have the lights off you might be wondering why well this is a good way to tell hey do i have any light spots so i got myself a little flashlight here and i'm gonna look at it and i'm gonna see hey can i see through to the primer like right here that looks a little bit light okay in this area so i know i need a little bit more there and over here too so you would only be able to tell when the sun comes out um if you needed more paint and well that's too late so i think one more coat and we should be good so with four coats on i have just a little bit left so it looks like these small cans eight ounces are good enough for about one panel give or take so this is what's going to separate this job from any rattle can job it's a 2k high gloss clear similar to what you get out of a paint gun that means that it has a catalyst on the bottom that was going to go ahead and mix with the actual clear coat and when they harden together it's going to you give you a 2k 2k means two parts okay and that's similar to what comes out of a paint gun now the way to use this is you'll take this red cap right here and there's a bladder inside like i said a bladder of a clear coat and then it's we're going to puncture it by pushing this red cap now it's a little bit hard so you got to kind of put against something very firm and when you hear that click you know it's good to go it's been punctured now from here it's kind of like a ticking time bomb now some say you can get up to a week if you keep it in a cabinet and your temperatures anywhere you live or around maybe the 70s well that's some beautiful weather we don't have here in south florida so i might only get about maybe one or two days out of this before it starts to gel up in the can but as for our project we have more than enough time here before it starts to kick so ready for clear now i do not recommend taking the tack rack now and running it over the panel sometimes these spray cans can come out really dry and textured and it's going to pick up all the fibers and the fiber is going to stay in the panel now here's a tip you might want to follow if you want a smoother finish now my finish is pretty good so i'm going to leave alone but if your finish is not good take yourself 1000 grit paper and just rub it over the surface that's going to go ahead and smooth it out and then from there just give yourself one more coat what that's going to do is going to take away all the build up of the texture and from just one coat of paint you're not going to have that heavy built for me i'm good so i'm going to leave it remember that every job is different we're ready for our 2k now what's important is we don't want to get the best finish in the first coat this is going to take time to build probably about two to three coats and we're going to be good but it's very important to remember that we don't want to put four or five six or seven something like that what might look great here in three or four hours will look pretty dull that's because you're not giving the chance for the clear to breathe and too many coats will trap it and when it's trapped well you're gonna have a dull paint job at the end of the day let's go ahead and spray some clear so first coat laid very nicely but you can see in some areas it's going to be dry i mean that's normal this is what i'm talking about not going too heavy you're not going to believe how it's going to look in those second and third coats this is a really good foundation for my clear to lay on let's give it about uh five to ten minutes so i'm currently sitting around eight minutes now and i can tell it's ready because it's sticky see how it's leaving like a fingerprint okay and it's not stringy or wet so i'm ready for that second coat we'll go a little bit wetter a little bit slower and we're gonna watch that gloss start to emerge and after that second coat is starting to look really good i had a little bug here that i kind of picked out and i left a little mark but i can always buff that out in the end if we need to and we're about eight minutes later eight to ten minutes later we could tell we're good to go this stuff kicks pretty quick so third coat we're going to do a little bit wetter and a little bit slower and then that's it we're going to leave it alone and kind of funny we got a bug in about the same exact area now for this i got a piece of tape and looks like i got them i'll just drop a little bit of clear over that and we'll buff that later and about 10 minutes after that third coat it's looking really good now if you need to step it up and do one more coat that's fine just make sure you keep it ventilated a well-ventilated area you don't want it to be too hot so when it gets too hot what happens is the paint is going to start to kind of cure on the top without curing on the bottom and as it starts to cure on the bottom and it's already cured on the top that's when you're going to start to see die back or little dots or anything like that so overall this job looks beautiful i mean take a look at that finish from a spray can now we do have a couple dirt and debris and if you stay tuned i'll show you how to remove that and any orange peel that you might have but i gotta say it's really good so we'll allow this to dry i'm gonna say about a good three hours i'll leave it just like this and then we'll unmask it you don't need to pull off any tape anything just let it be you're more of a risk of tampering with that clear it already looks this good don't mess it up all right so we're actually two weeks out and i haven't been able to touch the car because i've been a little bit busy but take a look at the gloss it's still pretty good we're gonna go ahead and attack that little area where that bug was gonna dust nip here and i'm gonna sand the whole fender just to see how well the clear takes a sanding and a buff okay so the guys over at eagle abrasive send over this little kit it's a toll cut this stuff's really good we're going to use it to get this little dirt nib out here it comes with a couple different blocks and it's a starter kit small variety of paper so there's two blocks right i'm gonna go ahead and use this uh more squared off one it has more of like a round one as well like an oval we use a square one and there's an oval but the square one like it's only gonna level off the top and what's underneath it it's not going to burn through the areas you don't want it to we're not going to use 800 800 more for like if you haven't run i'm going to start off with 1200 and the reason why i like these is they're super easy to use and they're strong now you don't use this wet at all use it dry that's the whole point behind toe cut is to be used dry it's designed to be the only paper or one of the only papers that can cut dry without the use of water so i'm just going to take off a little the surface and we're going to see what happens like i said this one's pretty deep short of dabbing it and re-sanding it would be the only other way to really get this out so we'll get as good as we can and then we'll buff it so on this we gotta know where to stop these little white dots we can't really do much about because that's from the bug but these little dots underneath that's a low spot and we sand it down considerably and it's still you know sanding but i don't want to overdo it they're not too bad but like let's say this little dirt nib right in this area if you can see it right here if we take it down right these are these are the ones that will stand out okay see how it's got the top surface so you pretty much you'll sand it down until it goes away and this is a good way to kind of minimize the area now 1200 it's a little aggressive for just a dirt nib probably would do around 1500 to 2000 but since we were using it for this area right here we can see that it cuts you know fairly well now looking at the rest of the fender honestly it came out clean the only reason why we're buffing it is just to give it a little bit more gloss clean it up just a touch but you could leave it just like this if you're happy with this most of you probably will i'll show you what to do if you're going to go ahead and take a step further so i'm going to cut over to 2000 grit because uh you know less aggressive scratch the easier it's going to be to buff so i'm gonna take my uh little block here and now i'm gonna go around to the little nibs okay there's like one right there okay you can see it now when do you stop you stop when that little bump right there a little nib goes away okay you can see that's kind of flat now that's good enough in that area got a little one right here so you know same concept actually two we take a look right here right you'll see the top of the nib here and here and all you're going to do is kind of just flatten it out a little bit now it will be a touch flatter in this area generally because you nibbed it out i mean nothing that anyone's really going to notice it looks a lot better than having a dirt nib in the middle of your paint job and then on this area where i had that 1200 grit i'm going to further sand it down to kind of refine that scratch you always want to front refine it you know just a little bit more to uh make it easier on buffing you know i know this one right here is not going to be perfect but you know that's one of the sacrifices you're going to have to give in the garage right you're going to have you know things that might fall into your paint uh that you just can't get out i mean there's always the option of repainting so now before we move on to our next step it's a good idea to get yourself some spray away glass cleaner and just kind of clean up the surface a little bit you don't want that residue going back into your new sandpaper and for our new sandpaper we're going to step it up to 3000 grit now this is a an eagle abrasives uh block right here and i have 3000 here now i'm only going to mainly focus on this area where i kind of wanted to make sure it looks really good and consistent with the rest of the car so i'm just going to kind of sand over it now 3000 is very easy to buff so we don't have to worry about you know putting too harsh of scratches in to the panel and what will 3000 do well it will take out the smallest of dirt nibs and it will kind of you know take down the surface just a little bit so you can have a nice beautiful finish if let's say yours died back just a little bit so after 3000 it's going to obviously look dull okay but it's ready to buff sort of for buffing this is what we're going to do each one of these foam pads and i prefer foam matches up with the corresponding compound polish or ultra fine machine polish and i'm using milwaukee this is probably one of the best buffers you can get for maybe one or two panels i want to do a full car with it but it's very very good it has a 3m adapter i'll put everything in the description so we'll start off with foam buffing with the compound foam for our polish and our mic girl machine polish it's really only for dark colors now i'm sure there's other different materials you can use to get to the same effect but you cannot um use this by hand it will not bring up the shine so let's go ahead and get some polishing done don't let it get too messy with the polish just put a little bit on and work it in first i'm mainly looking forward to see is how well this clear buffs [Applause] and this is the third pass we'll do and then we'll check it [Applause] [Music] so now i'm gonna switch over to that black pad and i'm running the buffer around 1200 rpm not too too high now after you start to do this polish you're gonna see that your paint is gonna start to look really good okay [Music] [Applause] so with this blue stage what this is going to do is like when you're out in the sun and you kind of see those buffing marks all over the place or those streaks well this is a type of material that's going to move them remove them for you and with this you kind of want to work it in slow and then it'll start to kind of sweat on you that's when you know you're hitting the sweet spot [Music] then to finish things off i have some quick detailer just go over to our panel can you believe we achieved this in our garage and it looks like this from spray cans i'm pretty excited and i hope that you are too now can you go ahead and paint your whole car with spray cans i don't recommend it with the cost of material that you'll have and just paint alone for the spray cans you'd probably be able to get yourself at least a 30 gallon compressor and paint one panel at a time but uh for small stuff well it really works well for hoods if you're going to paint a hood that's a little bit tough because it's flat and naturally spray cans don't really work well when they're you know when you're holding them more horizontal so if you can fix up your hood to have it in such a way that it's hanging then you might have a better chance but for small stuff just like this well we just proved it to you without that much material or much expense you can fix up your fender or maybe a small part on your car now we do recognize that the rest of the car is pretty badly sunbeaten but you know this is our project and we're going to go ahead and attack different panels throughout this series to learn everything there is about paint i hope you guys learned something enjoy this and hope you guys can do this on your own project until the next one this is brian from paint society reminding you don't overthink it it's just paint let's check out this job [Music] you

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 949,290

Rating: 4.8828673 out of 5

Keywords: spray cans, spray, diy, howto, fix, refinish, paint, civic, honda, garage, collosion, copart, repair, gun, light, fast, race

Id: syXl6fvlXTQ

Length: 28min 37sec (1717 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 17 2021