KUSTOM PAINTING MADE EASY WITH MASTER PAINTER JON KOSMOSKI

[Music] hello I'm John cosmati welcome to custom painting made easy during this program I'm gonna share with you my 47 years experience as a custom painter we're gonna take an old gray car and turn it into a fine jewel I'll teach you techniques that will give you pride in creating a quality job one that will impress your friends using House of Kolor products and the tricks that we're going to teach you your work will get so good customers are gonna beat a path to your door here's our subject vehicle in 1977 Camaro spent his entire life in Southern California we don't expect to find rust on this car but we are going to have to disassemble it and it has been refinished once other than factory so we don't know what we're gonna find underneath look at how hideous the bumpers are we're gonna paint the bumpers to match we're gonna remove the side moldings top and bottom we're gonna remove the emblems so we've got a nice clean look we're gonna black out the grille and headlight doors it'll change the look of the car we'll change the wheels and tires but we've got to get the paint off so the first thing we're gonna do is double tape all the seams around the doors and windows and so that we don't get any paint remover to run in there we're gonna use this aircraft stripper it's an economical way to strip a car you need to have safety factors in place methylene chloride when it gets on the skin or gets in the eyes can do serious damage so we wear gloves we wear eyeglasses and it does have an odor to it it doesn't even hurt to wear a respirator at this point in time because this stuff can nauseates you when you breathe it but look at how it takes the paint off it's amazing how it'll react now because it's got two paint jobs on it don't expect one application to remove a tall brush in one direction because there's paraffin in the system that comes to the surface and allows the biting chemicals to go down and remove the coating this is important don't brush like this back and forth it upsets the paraffin and you won't get the biting quality out of the stripper that you want now there are other ways to strip a car than chemical remover but it works well now use a scuff pad or three or four numbered steel wool and that will activate the stripper and help it after a certain length of time to remove the rest of the paints and then squeegee it off so that it doesn't make a big mess on your floor and put it into a cardboard box that's had the bottom taped that really makes your cleanup a lot easier using rubber squeegees to get it off it's gonna take a couple of applications but there we go we've got most of it off now we final wash it down with a solvent wipe I prefer acetone because it vaporators quick and it's a very good cleaner now you'll notice we don't have all the spots we're certainly going to have to DA the metal to get a good edge in it now we've stripped everything with the exception of the front group because they're made of plastic the paint remover may affect and dive into those and cause some damage you'll notice the paint left at all the openings that we had masked off we simply take some 80 grit to remove this remaining paint we did this to prevent the remover from going inside those jam areas which can really be a mess now we've got to assess our bodywork here we notice they had drilled holes to pull a dent and neglect it to weld them we've got to deal with that so we go in and knock the plastic filler that's been applied out of those holes now it's not enough just to drill them out and weld them up we want to make sure that our welds stay and the way to make that happen is using a countersinking tool we just countersink the edges so our welds will have a great edge to hang on to look at how nice that champers those out now we do that to every hole we're going to weld on the body including where the emblems were where the moldings were before the welding takes place now prior to doing the welding we need to clean the metal we want to make sure we've got a nice clean surface I highly recommend using a 24 grit 5 inch high speed grinder but don't run it at high speed just run it fast enough to clean the adjacent metal bodywork is in the hands this is the wrong way you need to lay the hand flat and move it back and forth and you don't even have to look at the area the hand will tell you what's high and what's low and you need to train yourself to be able to use your hands to feel the body now we're gonna weld up our holes using a welder that's designed specifically for sheet metal you could also gas weld the holes using braze put the ground on put on your suit protect yourself it welds quick puts on minimum build uses reduced heat a little or no warpage with a wire feed now we come in with a 24 grit grinder and we grind the high points off we're also cleaning up metal on other areas that we have not yet welded this also works to remove the high points from the old moulding clips get rid of those and then we're going to clean up the area that we know needs bodywork here we've got a gloved hand but a rag will do the same thing now with a 24 grit super sander we're going in you could also use a big 9-inch grinder as well many painters and body men prefer to use the big grinder but I like the little ones for small work it's working well in this area make sure that all of the metal gets scratched if you see points that aren't getting scratched angle the grinder into those areas to make sure this is what's going to give you the adhesion qualities that we need for the plastic filler that's coming next now when you want to put on as little plastic filler as possible so we need to make sure that we've got the metal where we want using a small grinder to get those small spots even a die grinder on certain areas to make sure that they're good and clean there's a high spot we're gonna deal with that by using a spoon which spreads the load hammer the school and it doesn't put small dents in it knocks down larger amounts of metal so that we've got it the way we want it before the filler begins again checking with the hand once you've got the area's cleaned and ready it's time for filler I'm mixing the filler is critical you need a clean flat board you need to need the hardener to make sure that the benzoyl peroxide is well mixed in this is critical many body men and painters miss this step laboratory testing has shown the benzoyl peroxide and the hardener to begin separating within four hours putting in the right amount of hardener in the filler is is critical they do have a color guide that makes sure that you get the right amount in keep that guide handy when you're doing your mixing if you're new at this here we put on what we think is needed and don't chop at the filler like this this puts air bubbles in it the right way is hard medium light hard medium light and you're doing this much faster when I'm actually mixing I'm slowing down so you can see the action and then I'll squeegee down to the board and get it off of my squeegee completely even ticking off the edge to make sure that there's no plastic filler that goes unmixed it's all got to touch the hardener and you keep doing this until it looks uniform the minute you're satisfied with the look the uniform look you can begin putting it on the car now what we're doing is working out air bubbles by mixing it this way and we put it on the car the same way using hard pressure and squeegeeing it down air bubbles can be horrendous when you've got a paint job that's got plastic filler in it with air bubbles and that starts to show on your paint job not a good thing now we're very careful to put it on evenly and don't put on too much it goes on a lot easier than it comes off I'll tell you that and you don't want to work harder than you have to the idea is using the hand know where to put it the heaviest and then squeegee it on is nice and even as you possibly can because it reduces your sanding time the better job you do of putting the filler on the least amount of work you're gonna have taking it off now you notice I'm going the other direction here there's no reason not to back up because whatever way you pull that filler is the way it goes now we're gonna use a dustless sanding system here because we don't want dust all over the shop or in our nose simply where the good safety equipment the goggles whenever you're using tooling protect yourself now we'll put the sandpaper down on the mud hog this is made by Hutchins and it's designed to have the paper punched and when you punch the paper it lets the vacuum pick up the sanding residue so you don't see the dust flying around the shop it's really nice to have a tool like this and these really remove the filler fast we're using 40 grit here you could also use 36 grit so whenever I'm working the mud I generally use 36 or 40 grit again a gloved hand or a hand with a rag in it remember we don't want to transfer oil to the bare metal that can cause delamination try to keep fair skin contact to an absolute minimum at all times during the paint job sandpaper manufacturers are now making this sandpaper with existing holes punch that saves you the time of doing that punching now we do use tooling because tooling saves time and time is money in the shop here we're using a power blocker to help block sand with speed but remember this only goes back to inches back and forth our hand when we use a hand block we can go back and forth a full foot or more and so certainly hand blocking at the final is the only way to go and that's what we're doing here we're coming in now and hand blocking and there's no reason not to guide code at this stage if you wish you can use a little primer contrasting color spray a little of that on there when you're blocking to see where the high and low spots are but they're showing up rather well and you start hand blocking everything starts to come home you'll start to find out what's high and what's low and then by using the hand the gloves hand or the rag in your hand and peeling back and forth it tells you right where you are and we exit the block do you notice how we were doing that Xing one-way Xing the other way but holding the block there's a low spot you can see that it's not being sanded different sized blocks for different areas we'll use the longer block for the big flat areas this is critical we want this bodywork to be dead flat if it's not it's going to show up in our paint now we know we have to add extra plastic filler so now we're going over it with a regular da sander with 80 grit we're putting a scratch and all the metal so that we know wherever we put the filler it's going to stick because we've created that tooth and this is where a lot of painters make mistakes you know you have to put a tooth in that metal if you're going to put something on it and you want it to stick you can't forget this part this is critical we're gonna wind up doing the entire car in fact many body men and painters begin with that 80 grit right from the beginning before they even scratch other parts of the metal for excessive body it also shows up bodywork points high and low spots when you're using that da tool but nothing beats the hand alright remember to blow down between ads to get everything out of those grooves so that we've got a good scratch pattern for the succeeding coats of filler wipe it down real well before you mix the next batch now we're putting on a skin ad the first ad got us very very close we just want to put on a light skin ad to complete this for the final hand blocking notice how hard I'm squeegeeing it down it barely wants to go there I'm pulling so tight on the squeegee [Music] this is the way to go we want this thing flat and nice this will be our last ad we're doing it everywhere where we feel we need it the welding created some warpage in some areas we had to deal with now if there's severe low spots you can use the stud welders to pull those up so we don't put holes in the metal clean up your mixing pad and squeegee with acetone immediately after it's added to the car then when you go to reuse it it's ready to go there's no rough spots that can cause bad mixing now we've let it harden up I don't like my plastic filler to get super hard if you come in when it's partially cured with some very coarse sanding paper 36 grit 40 grit it sands real easy use the small blocks for getting into the tight spots to make the curvature out to this fender lift double-check yourself now I like to take some 80 grit and put it on a block and take the tops off to the plastic filler before I come in with my spray filler or my primer this reduces the amount of filling that's required but don't try to finish it completely out with 80 grit that would be a mistake you work too hard sometimes and go nowhere now we're pretty much ready we've got so much bodywork on the side of this car we've decided to use a spray filler and there are many different companies that make spray fillers and they're very high solid polyester based and they really put some millage on probably four times more per coat than a primer would and we're gonna do that just strictly to the bodywork areas so that we get one more chance to block everything now blow it down real good wipe it down again with a good final wash solvent don't use tar wax and grease remover at this stage because many of those tar wax and grease remover will soak into the filler and can cause you severe problems make sure the product you're using is stated as a final now we make one called KC 20 that's a very good one de Beer is an excellent European automotive paint company specializing in standard colors we're going to use their polyester spray filler spend time stirring the hardener in in the can do not put these products on a shaker the heat generated will cause them to kick use a paint gun designed specifically for heavy fillers one that preferably has a 1.8 to 2.2 nozzle needle combination fiberglass overcoat also makes a finish sand material that is a polyester based spray filler many other companies make these products the only time we use them as when a car has extensive bodywork such as this car and we're going to put two to three coats on just the bodywork areas so that we can give it another good block prior to priming we don't do this always but in particular cases we will and this car had extensive bodywork we want it right take your time put on nice even wet coats don't mix more than you can use you can't keep it and make sure to get it out of the gun and clean the gun thoroughly before fifteen minutes have gone or it'll kick in the gun guide coats are now available in aerosol but you can also use the powdered material from 3m or in my case I use old lacquer number 70 that I still have a little left of in an old paint gun and just dust Dakota that's the only place that lacquer is used anywhere in automotive refinish today I don't use lacquer putties or anything like that we said before if they can be moved by solvents we certainly don't want them in or around our job we want a job that's gonna last so we get the guide code everywhere and set up our blocks with coarse paper generally nothing finer than 100 grit I prefer 80 actually now this is a DA that you can use it's got 80 grit and you can also use the inline orbiting block Sanders and they work fine in certain applications this is not the final sand so a DA can be used properly held but I prefer to block because the blocking tells me exactly what I need now we need to clean our blocks well with a with a straightedge razor blade make sure that they're clean because if you've got an irregular surface and you're putting paper on it you're not getting a true block we're using 80 grit it's a no fill grid available with sticky back on a roll many paint manufacturers offer it then with a long block we're gonna do our cross blocking and check out our bodywork now this will tell us what kind of a job we've done many times you hit it the first time but here we're hitting metal and we've got a low spot around it so we don't have perfection yet we're working towards it using the Xing motion but keeping the block facing front to back the only time we make a turn is when the curve goes down like it does on the deck lid now again blocking again and again and again it's amazing how much fill you get with this spray filler now we can kind of see the spots that we know we have to add small amounts of putty to a catalyzed spray putty could be used again but it's actually quicker to use a small spot putty that's designed specifically for nothing thicker than an eighth of an inch and it dries immediately you practically have to run to the car after it's mixed it sets that quick by the time I've got it added and cleaned my mixing paddle I can get back to it and begin to sand it so it doesn't hold up our progress hardly at all but it's important we want to finesse these adds in on these little low spots the primer might get them but we're not going to take that chance there we've got our spots covered as fast as we cleaned our paddle we're back now with 80 grit and we're blocking this you don't have to wait for it to thoroughly cure if it's not thoroughly cured many times it'll just seed the paper up check your paper and you can tell real quickly whether or not it's cured enough but it cures in five to eight minutes it's that fast now we've got it we filled in our low spots and we're good to go now we're using that orbital block in the curved areas it saves time [Music] and it's all about time your shop time is what people are paying you for if you can make it go faster that's money in your pocket now we're hand blocking to get our body line back I'm watching the guide coat carefully notice I'm using a long block here so when I get forward of the quarter panel I switch to a smaller block so I'm more comfortable with that curve you notice I'm not doing the flare out to the fender at all until I go to a round block the square blocks would put a groove in there and we can't take that chance so here we are xing our blocking again over the fender opening to get a nice continuity going on here now our body line doesn't quite match the door bring in a small block and spend time lining up those marks we want it to be right now coming from the bottom we can again make sure that our Peaks are correct that's a big part of doing the bodywork making sure the body lines worked now we're ready for our primer so we're masking off inside the door jambs we're masking our break areas because we don't want to get paint on those areas that's for sure what a mess to try to clean that up anything we don't want the primer to go on and that epoxy primer likes to stick to things we're cutting a hole so we can open the door to go inside the door and primer the bodywork areas that we've got inside the jams we're folding our rag into a square and wiping it down with a final wash and make sure you're not using a tar wax and grease remover here we want to see it labeled final wash that's important some time residue can be left from certain wash materials now we're shaking our primer part A Part B one to one mix our KP to C F stands for chromate free Part A and Part B both parts have filler in them and you want to spend time making sure that they're well mixed now there's no incubation time required with this primer the quick cure sets up the minute the two meet each other the old EP two if you remember had a 30 mm incubation time so we're putting two 24 ounce cups of the Part A and we're gonna match that with two 24 ounce cups of the Part B and remember both sides have filler in them put the lids back on the can when you're done pouring out of it it's hard to pour out of a new gallon as long as I've been doing it I still screw up once in a while even after you've got the first quart out or the first pour the second pour can still run down the back of the can matter how hard we try that's why we use a steel mixing bench you can keep it clean and neat now put the lid on put it on the shaker for just a few minutes not even two doesn't take very much if you're using the crystal tack cloth open it up all the way into a full opening because we want it to cure a little bit we want the resin to dry up so it doesn't smear onto the vehicle if you're using the new style tack rags these don't require this because they're sticky material is on the inside of the rag and they're not designed to be opened up now we treat our primer just like paint we strain it to make sure there's no lumps in it we make sure that we paint the car just like we're painting it as if we were using paint this is where we begin to train ourselves on how we're going to paint this object we air intact the car carefully to get all the lint off and be sure to do the paper as well we consider that part of the car if there's lint on the paper it's going to get off on the job so tack everything save your tack rag and an old coffee can it keeps it viable and keeps it tacky check your patterns figure out what your increment of overlap is going to be with a 50% overlap do your banding make sure you get all the edges put on a nice medium coat to begin with and we'll start wetting it after this how many coats of primer I like three coats on the bare steel and two extra coats on the bodywork so the way I generally do it is put a coat on the bodywork first but in this case we've already used the spray filler so I'm just going to apply three coats to the main overall car I'm not going to do any extras walk the length this is where we begin training ourselves for applying the candy paint job start learning to do that walk there's nothing difficult about it except hose management you need to know where that air hose is at all times you need to hold the hose properly so it doesn't slap the side of the car these are all important parts of the paint job but hose control is a big part of it particularly when we get into the candy and we'll walk it up and down a ladder to do a perfect paint job on that roof don't be afraid to bend down and get down on your knees to make sure you get primer underneath it's never a bad idea to have a knee pad on outside your painters suit a lightweight knee pad they work great for dropping down to your knees to make sure you're getting those low areas of the car over grip the gun maintain parallel as much as possible you won't put it run in anything with a good pattern overlap making sure you're doing that right holding the gun properly at the right angle funny how well things work when you're that robot I want you to think like a robot when you're in there putting this primer on and talk to yourself like that I'm a robot I'm a robot we've got the primer on and it's set for 14 hours we're guide coating it if you put a lot of primer on it's not a bad idea to let it sit even longer up to 24 hours is recommended you can tell if the primer is not cured right because it'll start to gum up your sandpaper when you're sanding it you'll get seeds that doesn't happen when the primers cured and this primer doesn't shrink another good thing about it not only does it adhere super well and has tremendous flexibility but it sticks like glue alright now we're going to our wet sanding stage which is the final stage before the sealer we fold the sandpaper in half tear it in half and do the three fold the reason for this we want to do all the folding before it goes into the water because the paper will curl up in the water and we're supposed to soak it a minimum of 20 minutes prior to use to soften the back now you can see by doing the 3 fold method how well the pads fit inside there even the small pads and the larger pads go into this fold perfectly and that's great for the big flat areas the reason for the 3 fold is that we can use random sanding pattern and you'll see when we do the second this is I used mainly on motorcycles but it works for small areas tear the halves in half fold them interlock them the reason for doing this is we can make different side motions and the sand paper does not roll out of your hands because of the way you folded it now it can go in the water and soak I don't use ivory liquid when I sand the primer kings bharata germany also makes a sticky back wet sanding paper and i use their 320p grade for sanding the primer it's very sticky as you can see when you make a mistake on the pad it's hard to get it off make sure your pad is clean and put it down and it works so good keep it wet well lubricated use the ex method that we used through the hole sanding process on the bodywork and everything else the guide code shows you your blocking errors the low spots just keep blocking til they're gone because of all the previous work that we've done we know that this primer is going to get us where we want to be each dried wet coat of primer should put on 1 mil so that means we've got 3 mils of primer on there check your work with a squeegee you can actually use the squeegee that goes inside the sandpaper to squeegee it off not we're using the half round to complete our wet sanding in the areas that we're concave and that's important we don't want any grooving in there now because it's gonna be picked up on our paint job use blocks when it makes sense but use common sense we've sanded the whole car gotten rid of all of our guide coat and now we're gonna begin our layout the first thing that we have to do is find Center and then using 2-inch tape on either side of Center that's going to be our gap between our layout our goal here is to put Yenko style stripes on the hood and the trunk and we're going to measure the back of the hood to make sure we get it even we're gonna check our curves to make sure that the layout is identical it's amazing how much you can do with eyeball but a tape measure doesn't lie and you want to make sure you've got it right use small pieces of tape to mark your areas or you can use a greaseless pencil like a Stabilo which also works and doesn't affect any paint application Here I am using the tape to mark a spot so I get it equal from one side to the other nothing will make you sicker than doing a layout and finding out it's not the same from one side to the other measure the hood edge get it right a little time spent here really comes back to you in the long run now when we're crossing a hood opening or a door opening you can also come in and pop the hood open and tape those edges so that the design continues through the open hood this really shows fine detail and that's what we're doing here to make sure that our design goes through you can also do that in the jams if you're being paid for it it does take extra time and the customer has to understand time is money all right we on the Yenko stripes they had a main stripe and then a quarter-inch stripe that encircled it so we use a quarter inch piece of tape as a guide and then use the plastic tape around the outside most of our taping year as you seeing we're doing with the crepe tape but you can use the plastic or the crepe they work equally well the reason the crepe tape works with our base coats is they're not prone to creep underneath the crepe tape like some paint companies base coats are now we mask out we do the trunk we do the hood and we get to looking at the job and we think you know something it sure looked nice if we had stripes across the top Yenko never did that but we decided yep we're gonna add stripes across the top find Center again the most important part of the layout is finding center whether it be a motorcycle or a car and then we've done our tape out on the roof something that looked well that worked we had to taper it a little in the rear to match the rear trunk we did that now we're doing our final wipe down with a final wipe and we're going to mix our sealer the three bases that we're going to use on this car are the MBC's and there are super metallics they're beautiful but we need to put a sealer under each one of them that matches the first one we're going to use is the Black Diamond and that requires a black base the mixing ratio on the sealer is for 1:1 take a look at your mixing vessel look at the highest number for example we're gonna go to number four the highest number four is the the total amount we're gonna have mixed we add the sealer the catalyst and the reducer to bring it to those marks don't guess everything we do must be measured the second number four can be either be our catalyst or our reducer we choose to use reducer there is no sequence on when it's mixed we hit the second number four now we get the catalyst and we're going to do the third number four which will give us our ratio of four one one bring it to the last four there we are now all we have to do is mix see that four line runs across we hit the four line that's what's important strain into the gun we treat it like paint make sure there's no lumps in it we're using the bag system here from developers to prevent gun drips and it siphons down it allows us to paint at different angles without worrying using our fluffed tack rag that we've let dry we're going in and tacking all the lint off from the rags we use for wiping the vehicle down checks and balances now we're going to set our pattern by turning our air cap vertical we get a horizontal pattern we can now measure this and know exactly how wide our pattern is at our given painting distance this tells us how much our increment is in this case about two inches make sure we get good coverage do the bandpass make sure we get good coverage paying attention to our increment of overlap putting on the nice wet coat do the roof finish the hood all we need is one good coat remember the paint doesn't turn the corner we as painters have to make it turn that corner always remember that you must do the band notice that I'm shooting at that louver from the other side the reason being you can't angle the gun the right way to get paint on the back side of that louver and that happens throughout this whole paint job we're covered this is the end of it now we'll go out and mix our bass how long should the sealer sit I like it to sit for a minimum of 45 minutes to an hour no longer I don't believe in longer I know our instructions say the sealer can sit longer but common sense tells me get that paint on so it'll bond into that sealer while it's green and while it's receptive these are the three bases available in the MVC pale gold platinum and black diamond we're using the MBC o3 the Black Diamond over our black sealer one of the things you'll learn in custom painting is make sure that your sealer is near your base color it saves you time and money and grief because things happen fast when the sealer matched the top coats now we're using slow dry reducer here because on these super metallics I really like them to lay down well and if the reducer is a little bit slower those sealers tend to lay down much nicer yeah you'll have a little more time wait between coats but it's worth it the amazing thing about these sealers is how quick they cure and these base coats are so metallicky but they go on smooth they come across as a medium flake now look what we're picking up on our tack rag tacking the sealer always a good idea to tack the sealer now that tack rag got pretty well trashed but I'm gonna keep it anyway I keep a couple of coffee cans one with good tack rags and one would be to tack rags again the bandpass type pattern overlap we set our pattern we're moving the gun about an inch and three-quarter wetting out that base we're gonna put three coats of base on that's what's called four on the instructions three nice wet coats allowing dry between each using invisible straight lines behaving like a robot putting the paint on the best way we know how we begin adjusted the gun we need the fan control wide bring in the material knob for the pattern size that we want check it on our pattern on the wall and then begin our painting this is fun this is fun part of painting here's our last coat letting it out tight pattern overlap keeping the gun parallel all important there's not a time to be casual now we're laying out the bottom half our goal here is to use all three of those bases and we're going to use the Platinum the MB co2 from the brake line down on the side of the car so I'm using a three quarter inch roll of crepe tape and I'm using that to set my design because the thicker tape gives me a nice straight pull eyeing it very carefully setting it the way I want it cutting it in the door jambs this is the material we're going to use now here's a little bit of a problem we make a silver sealer but we don't make a platinum sealer we have to build our own the platinum being darker we have to take our metallic sealer and mix in some black so we're using the KSR 11 and we're adding small amounts at a time of black to make a gray metallic sealer adding more black until I'm satisfied that it's dark enough I want it slightly darker than the base the platinum base we're stirring the base we're comparing it to our sealer yes it's ready it's slightly darker than our existing metallic that's what we need we go in and tack this area on the lower parts of the car and we go ahead and use the same for 1:1 mixing ratio on the mix sealer strain it into our gun check our pattern and apply the sealer you know if there's a trick to custom painting get that sealer near that base color you'll save time you'll save money and the sealers are amazing what they do they create a tremendous bond coat to the sanded primer they work so good for that and then on top of that they give us the coloration that we want I don't know of anyone else that makes a metallic sealer and that metallic sealer is a real workhorse as you'll see as we continue through this job make sure you get your wheelhouse as well make sure you get the tail sections get down on your hands and knees and make sure the rockers are well done now we're mixing our metallic you can also put on a second coat if you need it add a little extra reducer to that sealer now this is a two to one mix on the Platinum look at that it looks like a medium flake but it goes on so smooth it'll blow your mind put it on wet use a medium dry reducer or a slower reducer to get it to lay down walk the length whenever possible don't stop at those door edges that's a big mistake in the custom world in fact I find standard painters that paint cars for a living have learned a long time ago walking the length of the car gives them a better paint job and definitely reduces the chances of runs all right parallel that air cap get down get those lower areas man that's important notice the kneepads rubber kneepads don't want to be kneeling on direct concrete when you're doing the bodywork when you're doing anything it's not good for the knee cartilage it'll cause you big problems later in life best to take care of yourself three good coats just like we did on the Black Diamond put it on nice and wet notice I always hold the gun fairly close when you start moving the gun too far away it goes out of the control of the air horns on the gun and it just starts splashing the paint on the side of the car a quality painter adjusts his gun down using the material knob so that you can be in control up close we've got two of the bases on now now we can pull the tape how long do you wait generally 30 to 45 minutes the idea is to pull the tape away and ahead now that's a little bit of an error there but notice how I'm doing it with the outline I'm pulling it ahead and away we've got all the tape pulled off now and now we have to reverse tape in other words everything that's got the base on it now we're gonna put tape on because we need to protect it so that we can put on our last and final base which is the pale gold do you understand what we're doing here we're budding the bases together so that there's no one basis thicker than the other all of the base coats are going to come out at the same millage so that when we put our candy job over the top of all of this there's only going to be one gauge of base coat throughout the whole car fold your paper eliminate the amount of tape contact to those bases now SG 100 could be used over those base coats before the tape is pulled and many smart painters do that we didn't do it in this case because there is no contrasting color that's going to hurt us here but on motorcycle tanks and other things SG 100 can be a real workhorse to protect that surface now for example if I was gonna lay flames out on one of those bases before I did that I would want my SG 100 down which is nothing more than a clear base coat and that allows me to be able to sand errors if you sand directly on a base you're in deep trouble now when you do your tape outs always leave a little bit of the contrasting base showing just enough to barely get a visual on it and then you know you're not going to have any primer showing through that's important on your tape outs takes a little time but it goes fast we're doing this whole job in one day and so we started early and we've been going steady now we mask everything off carefully you know all the work goes into the preparation the trigger time is fun now we need to mix a base that matches the pale gold and using the KK 14 Spanish gold and mixing one ounce into 24 ounces of the silver base coat makes a perfect pale gold base look at that I mean it's unbelievable and that is gonna make applying our pale gold so easy it's gonna take a couple coats of that because the first coat kind of models just a little bit we strain it like the paint everything we're gonna do here is like we're painting the car set your pattern up first coat goes on kind of fast gun held close and what I do many times on the second coat is I go out to the paint bench and add another ounce of extra reducer it's amazing what a little bit of reducer will do to take the modeling out of the sealer we apply two coats of this a lot of flash time between how much class time 810 minutes is generally enough in a shop that's at a normal painting temperature I don't like to see any painting done in a shop below 70 degrees it really really reduces the amount of solvent that's pulled out of the film when the shop gets colder than that straight line thinking become that robot that I want you to be a custom painter is a robot when he begins doing the custom work don't let the converging panels trick you make sure you get in and turn the corners put the sealer where you need it don't miss any spots because they will haunt you if you do you start putting on that metallic they almost don't cover it all if they don't have a base under them you're really in trouble getting our sealer on is critical go a little faster for the second coat notice I don't go all the way back on the hood on that one pass you have to read the job as you go and determine what's invisible straight lines you're going to use to get through the piece but the hoods are always wider at the back than they are in the walking the length key key item learning how to control that air hose so you don't trip up on it all important remember when you go by the front paint everything that needs painting don't waste motion economy of motion save the time there's enough work involved here without making more walk the length visible straight lines this is fun you know there's nothing more fun than doing quality work pride of workmanship never goes away the master this crap aq time you don't notice I'm not in the big hurry I've got my gun set up so that I'm in control where's my concentration I'm watching that primer sealer hit I'm paying close attention to it it's critical you know you can't be watching the ceiling you want to watch that paint go on I want to try and be as robotic as I can I mean I'm a human being and we all make mistakes but I'm trying to do it as good as I know how and if you think like a robot you'll do this kind of work you'll have great fun doing it nice short steps so you're not bouncing up and down watch that hose I've always got it in control I don't want it slap on the side of the car sealer is covered and looking even alright here we come with the base the pale gold to 1:1 ratio gun setup wet it out this is our last base coat wet it out and put three coats on just like we did the other two bases nice and wet and it's amazing the litter of this material well you can't appreciate it in a fluorescence light atmosphere when you see this car outside after it's painted with the candy on it you'll know what I'm talking and it goes on so smooth these basses as I said have that medium flake look without the work there's no roughness when the candy goes on this paint job is going to be smooth don't forget your band passes at the edges of the windshield and the back glass forget that paint won't turn the corner notice I slightly tipped the gun at the front of that better when I went by because of the way the curve of that sheet metal is subtle little moves to try and maintain parallel with that air cap do it here right there nice wet cold so much fun to be a precision happening right in front of your eyes doing the walk getting it on evenly it's amazing how nice and even this pace goes on using a tight pattern overlap remember 75% pattern overlap I mean there's some inconsistency in my distance as I want the idea is if you've got that locked in your mind those don't mean a thing minor inconsistency will not as you'll see as we complete we go with our third and last coat nice and wet just at the gun back so I'm doing a pull trigger pull each time based on my gun adjustment remember that gun adjustment knob does nothing more than restrict the trigger pull you get the same trigger pull each time because you did gonna Justice and I know many painters that can't understand how I can paint this close it's because I've adjusted the gun if there's a secret that's it [Music] vinyl coats are happening doesn't take very much of this base to do the job either it goes a long way mainly because we've got the sealer that tones it out for us I had one fella trying to put our platinum over a white base took him six coats we had coverage of the look of coverage and one and now what I like to do is take a dull pocket knife and just go along the edges that want to crawl up alongside the edge of the tape and get a little high spot there before we go to the candy coats and that paint is set up you can just go along with a dull blade a sharp blade won't work it'll want to dig into the paint but a dull blade will just go along and rake that stuff down and it really helps us in the overall job takes a minute you know at a section to go along the whole job but it happens fast it's really probably an hour total in the whole thing to cut all those edges down and now take a scuff pad I use a gray here but just a scuff pad and go along to make sure that none of those high metallics are sticking up if they are this will knock them down that's all we want to do is get them knocked down before we begin the candies now we err off the excess make sure your air at the window areas how many times do we mask a car I like to ream ask after the primer and I like to read mass at this stage is not a bad time but you can just put tape over the existing tape and trap all that metallic under tape works just as well as pulling all the tape off and retaping now you might have a situation where the tape goes out onto the surface of the car that's worth cutting off and retaping because you know your a thing when you start painting it it starts to get leather like it gets so thick now we're going to do a mix here of apple red and and Brandywine we're gonna use a couple parts of apple red - one part of Brandywine and why are we doing this well the Apple red has a yellow tone the Brandywine has a blue tone and this will make a cherry color beautiful komban I'm gonna use fast dry reducer based on our shop temperature we're using the mix we get our mix done first before we catalyze or do anything you don't want to catalyze too much at one time now we've got our uniform mixture that's the candy color we're gonna be working with you could name it your own color if you wanted to because you're doing your own mix and that's what custom painting is all about now the ratio on the candy is 2 1 1 2 parts of the paint or the candy color which is a tinted clear to one part of catalyst to one part reducer now if you've read our label instructions it says on the beginning three coats it's recommended that you over reduce a little bit in this case this is our over reducer over and above our measured spot so to a gallon we're adding a couple of ounces two or three ounces of extra reducer look at how rich our candy is ready to spray it's amazing how fast the color comes on again pouring out of a new container always seemed to do a little spilling we strain into the gun Cup now we're using a 1.2 you could also use a 1.3 you need good clean air we didn't talk about it earlier but i like refrigerated dryers because they make sure to get the moisture out make sure you've got good filtration because you need to filter out anything that might want to fragment in your airlines and you also need a filter that's going to filter out the oil molecules when you've got a reciprocating air compressor what's the reason we can't breathe it because of oil molecules you need this type of a system to filter out the oil molecules to take out the last little bit of water and if you're going to use a breathing system in the booth with a hood you need a separate system to make sure that that is clean breathable air and that's what we've got here with these filters a 60 pounds by the way is recommended on your hood so that you get enough clean fresh air here's another system made by sharp manufacturing that has the KOA lesser for filtering out the oil it's got a unit in it for filtering out the particles that might get into your air system and it's got a dryer a membrane dryer that absolutely gets all the water out of the system and it doesn't need to be recycled it just goes on doing this forever and so it's a worthwhile unit if you want to save some money compared to the refrigerated dryers now we're airing and tacking this is the moment of truth gang everything we've done up to now has been a lot of work to get to this point and we could ruin everything if we hadn't done our practicing during our priming during our base application we pretty much have this job figured out we know how we're gonna paint it we know how we're gonna get there now we're getting hooked up we're getting our breathing apparatus set on isocyanates are hazardous and we want to protect our skin we want to protect our lungs so that we can continue to do the work that we love for a long time now we begin by the bandpass you notice most of the painting we never used a ladder when it comes to the candy we are going to use a two-step with a hoop and the reason for that hoop is so I can lock my legs into that and lean out and maintain parallel we set the gun up my increment of overlap is tight it's about an inch in three-quarters I've got a 6-inch pattern six inches from the gun notice how I try to get it perfect I'm trying to be that robot I'm concentrating on the paint hitting I'm doing that tight pattern overlap I want this to be a nice even beautiful candy paint job notice my knees are locked into that hoop on the ladder so there's no way I'm sticking my knees in this paint job and this gets more serious as we progress through the job now I do that half of the roof and the sale area down to the quarter panel and now I pick up that chair and move immediately to the other side also do the band passes along the back window light and along the front of the windshield that's very important now don't overlap too much at the center that can cause a strike make sure that you're doing your proper increment even when you pick it up from the other side we're taking the wet paint and we're carrying it off to this side there are many ways to paint a car this has been my method for all the years that I've been doing it there may be other ways that work for you that's fine I'm showing you my way and what's worked for me all right do that sale area get down off the ladder get the ladder out of your road so it's not in your way don't forget to make that pass along that back window straight line thinking watch this pass doesn't go back all the way stop now go back I'm establishing a straight line using the deck lid as my straight line the edge of the deck lid using that robot attitude straight line thinking straight line thinking proper increment of overlap holding the gun parallel taking my time watching that candy go on the way I want it to go on doing my banding whenever I'm there I band all the edges go up on the inside go up on the inside get everything done don't forget that bottom pan get down and get those low areas too many times look at that it piece of tape I forgot get it out of there didn't hurt a thing first coat of candy no problem all right get down on those lower areas I've had more painters take cars outside after they're done and say what do I do I didn't get enough paint on the rocker continues straight-line invisible straight lines hit where we came down to that sale area and stop band important banding now we get up to the hood we haven't done the sides yet we're going to complete the rear we're going to complete the hood we're going to complete the front and then we're going to walk the sides don't be afraid to help support that gun if your hands start to get tired after a couple of paint jobs bring that other hand in help support that thing we don't want to see anything falling into the job any any deterrence from our robotic attitude do the will of do the openings here around the headlights around the parking lights around the grille openings everything that's needed economy of motion you're going buy something do the painting that's required get down get it done remember the same problem can happen on the center of the hood by overreaching and making a stripe in the center of the hood so when you get out there pick it up at the right point so that we're maintaining the continuity that we want to it takes extra effort to parallel that air cap make sure that you do that always using invisible straight lines robot attitude I am a robot to this day I say that I am a robot I am a robot I'm going to paint this as if a robot we're controlling me if I had a program I'm gonna maintain my program the walk begins now coming right off of this van pass on the curve of that fender here we come take your time tight pattern overlap on the candies this is not so hard you can do this concentrate on the paint hitting that's what tells you how fast to move if you don't watch the paint hitting you don't have any idea how fast a move it's better to go too fast than too slow you can always come back but maintain that increment I want to see that gun move now over grip when you start going below center because the sheet metal turns at a different angle maintain parallel finish between the two wheel openings when half the pattern goes in the wheelhouse it's always been my signal to complete between the wheel openings don't be afraid to get down on your knees and make sure that rocker panel is covered don't make the mistake some painters do and make that error do the wheel openings get those well covered finish behind the wheel opening we walk on the other side it's so much fun to do a quality candy paint job but it does take this type of concentration concentrate watch that pain hit control the hose maintain parallel aim the gun right because we've got the extra reducer in this is going on so beautifully finish in front do the wheel opening do between the wheel openings we're back on the roof now we can begin to slow down a little bit more start to wet it out a little bit remember that first coat over the base is a bond coat and that first coat gives all the succeeding coats something to stick to and hang on to having the gun set up properly is a big item if that's not right nothing will be the bandpass at the back catching the trunk you don't have to use the same start up point each time you can alter that an inch if you want so that nothing is exactly the same when you when you carry through that's your call completely your we change in our methods we're going all the way across the deck from one side getting all the inside low parts getting around the deck lid getting around the taillights going in and making those band passes make sure it's all covered top and bottom paint won't turn the corner we're turning the corner making sure we get it where we want it bottom pans it's not rocket science you guys can do this we have to do it though there's no wait you know once you start a candy job it's a major commitment nothing can deter you if you let this base candy sit too long it can cure to the point that it'll wrinkle when you recode it so how long a wait between coats I never want to see longer than 1012 minutes and that's even pushing it use the touch test if you touch it at the wet point and it strings up on your finger it's still flowing but if you touch it at a wet point and it's sticky to the touch and doesn't string you're ready for the next coat I generally do a lot of my testing at the center of the windshield seems to be a very wet point you've seen this done you can do this particularly over the darker bases the lighter bases are the most difficult but our lightest base here is pale gold the platinum would be a nice start up base I think anybody could do a quality paint job over the Black Diamond and it comes across as a black paint job until the Sun hits it it's amazing when you see what we're achieving here with this mix of candy get down on those bottom areas don't neglect that how many coats I want to see five to six coats of candy for long life the lighter the base the more important it is to have the maximum amounts of candy for long life now our candy contains four percent UV absorber as does all of our clears except one SG 100 being a base coat clear has no UV absorber and that's important for the life of the job well we got on our five coats of candy and we finished it with two coats of clear we use the UC 35 which is our pure acrylic urethane clear now we're going to wet sand and dry sand our candy now we've got the clear coats on so we're going to dry sand to show you some of the faster methods by using a 600 grit paper on a da sander and using a scotch brite to periodically clean the pad we can go in and smooth out the edges from our artwork no matter what you're always going to have some edging from the artwork and we're always going to have some nipping dirt nibs happen when you're doing as much painting as we've done on this car when you figure we put on one to two coats of sealer three coats of base five coats of candy two coats are clear I mean there's lots of chances for lint to get in there and they just become like little burrs they're not going to show when we've got them sanded smooth hit that light scuff pad keep the pad clean takes the seeds off how long is this job dried we finished it 16 hours ago it only had to cure 12 before we sanded it and recode it now we're gonna get all the mean parts of it done with the sander the dry but we'll still come in and wet sand with some 500 grit we're using a block where we think it's necessary and this is a very flexible block in other words it moves it gets into the flexible areas but it also gets up close which is harder to do with our fingers without finger sanding and then check yourself with a squeegee be careful of black squeegees on lighter colors because they have been known to lead black stripes what's good to use is one of the foam pads that you use for sanding they work great for squeegeeing the water off and they leave little or no chance of leaving a mark what do we use to wipe down the car as we sand because we've used a little ivory liquid you can use water for clean and that's what we use for a final wipe down after we've wet sanded the whole car and I watch carefully to make sure that the water goes everywhere if there's a place that the water won't go there's something contaminating that area keep the bucket in the booth with the ivory liquid in it and the and a little 500 sandpaper and go back over that area and sand it and wipe it down and now come back with the pure water I like the water to be warm the main reason I use warm water is evaporates and wipes up quickly if you don't have that available to you just a good warm day will do that now carefully watching to make sure that the water goes and scrubbing as I go so I'm cleaning always open the door jambs and go inside and clean everything out there we can discuss how the door jams are done there is a way of doing the jams while we paint the car and I've done that many times but one of the best ways of course is to jam the doors with the base before you go ahead and paint the outside then you can easily come in and do the touch-up with the candy with a little intensifier and get those easily covered I always do that before I do the color sanding then any overspray that gets on the outside gets sanded off now with a blow gun blow all the water out of all the areas using a tack rag pack up all the lint that might be left from our final now we're gonna put on the flow coat this to me is the most fun part of the painting what's the difference well you can also change to our UFC 3/5 clear which is our polyester modified flow clear and instead of the two one one we go to one one and a half on the reducer now I notice some light spots that I didn't band often enough on these areas and so I mixed up a little candy with catalyst with intensifier in it and put it in a touch-up gun so I can go around now and do my touch-up to make sure that it matches everything else as soon as I'm done with this I've already mixed my flow coats there in the gun I'm ready to begin first coat is a bond just wetting fast just wetting a little more gun distance than I normally use for flow coating because this is going to create the bond that is going to allow the other coats to stick without running very quickly put on the flows just wetting don't hold the gun too far away because that creates a stucco defect we don't want that to happen now after all the work we've done to smooth out this paint job to the point we're at doing the trunk get all the edging walk the sides like we always have nothing changes we do everything the same we are that robot fast applying the bond how many coats do we put on a final clear we do a bond coat and two super wet coats with the two coats that we put on after the candy and figuring that maybe we sand it a half a coat off during the color sanding that gives us four coats of clear for the life of the job and that's money now we begin the flow coats start slowing down look at how much closer I'm getting I am wetting it out I've changed the gun to a 1/4 nozzle needle combination and I'm wetting this baby out the wait between coats is going to increase with the flow coats because of the slight amount of extra reducer takes a little more time to leave the film make sure you're doing the touch test you don't want it stringing when you're pumping the clear on like this this means it matches the old painter saying the very best paint job is one big run that's what we're doing here we're doing the one big run this whole job is going to be like a piece of glass so much fun at this point you don't have to worry about getting the candy on even but everything you've learned at this point see the touch test touch it sticky no string ready for the last flow code pump it on competent so much fun look at the gloss and guess what this is the way it's gonna look tomorrow it's gonna have this same beautiful gloss now if we use the UFC 3/5 flow clear we want to let it sit for 48 hours before we begin color sanding and doing our buffing because it has a longer cure time but it also has a slightly amount of more gloss than our you see 3/5 does and longer time between coats because of this slowness of it but what a beautiful clear it is and it builds it's a medium high solids in the 40% range of course we're over reducing it a little bit which also reduces the solid somewhat wet it out wet it out look at the reflection of me and that paint job get those rockers with that bag in the gun you can literally turn it upside down to get those rockers here we are the next day in the booth and here we are outside the booth two days later showing you that you can also color sand with dry paper here we're using 1200 grit to just see how well it's sanding keep that scuff pad handy because this is a time it's very important to also look for nibs but also look at the grease from my hands from just touching it see how important it is during the paint job to keep your hands off we don't care now because this is the buffing stage this is the time that we don't care if you lay your hand on it it doesn't make any difference now but use the power tools painters are telling me around the country that by using the power tools in the big flat areas that they're able to save about 4 hours and what used to be a 10-hour cut and buff they're able to knock it down to 6 and you got to figure this in your pricing you must get paid for the work that goes into this it's fun though starting to watch the job come around here's a new wet sanding tool from Dyna Bride that doesn't orbit it just vibrates so there's no chances of putting those tight little swirls in I like to wet sand the final even if I do use dry to get close I still like to come in with the 1200 grit 1500 grit and 2000 grit paper to do my polishing there we are using a 3m cutting compound there perfected three system you can also use the material from system one from freckly ax there's many many Presta many other good companies out there that make polishing compounds but use the cut wool pads the loop wool pads tend to cut or burn a little more than the cut wool pile so look at your pad carefully and see if it's got loops in it or if the pile is cut that's important look at how fast the shine comes back once you use the papers out the 2,000 grit the technology from murca also moves you from 2,000 to 4,000 grit and 3m just came out with a try as AK system that moves to 3000 grit this really helps bring that shine on fast this particular clear buffs like butter though here we are using a convoluted foam pad and using the machine glaze this tells you just what kind of a job you've done how well your polishing is going because this will give you the look of the final shine look at our reflection in there it comes back quick it's so much fun at this stage to start seeing the results of the effort and the labor that we put into this job they don't call it bodywork because it's not work and they don't call it a paint job because it doesn't require a lot of expertise and know-how and it is a job you saw the work we went through but it's fun when you can do work like this it's fun here we're trying a little miss chine just to see what we've got take a look at it you may find spots you have to go back over we found down in these lower is that there was a haze we hadn't gotten in there real well well dine a bride makes a little 3-inch polisher and that works great for getting down in these tight spots I use it all the time on motorcycles getting around mirrors on the cars when you don't want to take the mirror off it has tremendous use here we are outside the booth we've painted the bumpers we put them on the car we've installed our headlight doors we got our grille in this is our finished product looking good look at all that bumper disappeared painting it's math it's not so hideous anymore well here we are ten working days later and look what we've achieved this beautiful candy apple paint job over three bases applied evenly throughout the car we shared the secrets with you of what it takes to do this job but the biggest secret of all is staying with the House of Kolor product line don't throw in intermixed products or other products around us on top of us below us it doesn't work our system lives long-term it's been proven we see jobs going 10 and 15 years and looking beautiful with minimal amounts of care and the pride of workmanship was sticking with our system and using our methods will never go away your friends will be totally blown away by the work that you're doing and best of all customers will beat a path to your door well I'm John Kozlowski and I want to say thank you so much for watching and remember you can achieve results like this using House of Kolor prize [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: PHARRAWAY

Views: 3,995,517

Keywords: how to repair clear coat, auto painting, LucastheSpider, Funny, Family Entertainment, Pets, SATAJET, IWATA, DEVILBISS, DIY, painting for beginners, Will Smith, Devilbiss DV1, CLEAR COAT, TRENDING, Don Pepe, 350z, BoxChevy

Id: Ow71HxdrZsc

Length: 82min 23sec (4943 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 15 2019