Contrast Hacks! Aeldari Rangers Painting Tutorial for Warhammer 40k | How to Paint Biel-Tan Eldar

hi everyone my name is Matt and welcome to my channel let's paint some of these alari Rangers for Warhammer 40K using a mix of contrast paints and traditional techniques after assembling the models I primed them in my favorite method beginning with gray all over followed by a heavy spray of white from the top and sides then I attached the models to the corks using double-sided tape I'm going to paint these models in a be tan color scheme with bone colored armor and green helmets let's tackle the bone armor first and begin with a layer of skeleton horde remember when using contrast paints you'll get a much better result if you apply plenty of paint at first to ensure it flows into all the recesses then wipe the brush on a paper towel and use the brush to soak up any extra [Music] paint with the armor base coated it's time to move on to the cloaks I want the cloaks to match the box art and they have an interesting Square kind of camo pattern in different shades of green it may seem odd but I'm going to paint the first parts of the pattern with Ash and gray reference the box art if you need to and just paint a few random Square shapes of varying sizes and to make sure there's an even finish apply a second layer after the first one dries [Music] [Music] with those Square shapes dry next it's time to paint some green on the cloaks with Creed camo since the surface is relatively flat it's important to apply just the right amount of paint here we want the paint to pool and collect in some areas to create shading but too much paint will flood the whole surface and create an uneven finish work on one section at a time and use the brush to control where the paint flows and to soak up any excess it's okay if some of the paint gets on the leather areas or weapons but do your best to avoid getting any green on the bone armor any mistakes on those areas will be more difficult to correct [Music] the green looks like it could use a second layer and it will get one but first i'm going to paint another part of the pattern with ogren camo make another series of squares on the cloaks with some overlapping the squares from earlier these squares are also a good opportunity to paint over any mistakes with the first part of the pattern or any areas where the green dried unevenly with the ogan camo patterns done now I'm going to paint one more layer of creed camo this will help tie all the colors together and deepen the green tones I'm trying to control the amount of paint in this step and keep it very thin I don't want it to pool or create shading but rather tint all the colors beneath it by layering the different stages in this way we're getting only one layer of creed camo on top of the light green squares and we're getting two layers of creed camo everywhere else we'll leave that part for now and move on to the inside of the cloaks which I'm base coating with xandre dust be careful and take your time along the edge of the cloak where the two sides meet if you make any mistakes that's okay just leave them for now and we can touch them up later next we'll shade the inside of the cloaks I put some steel Legion drab on my palette and thinned it slightly with water rather than paint it all over like a wash or a contrast paint I'm going to apply this directly in the areas where I want it due to the shape of these cloaks it's really difficult to get a clear view on camera check out this video here to see this technique and a few others in more detail we'll move on from the cloaks for now and start base coating the leather areas using a mix of four Parts Wildwood and one part Doom bow Brown you may have some areas where green or another color splashed onto the leather areas and since this color is so dark we shouldn't need to touch up the base coat first these Rangers are for an existing Army that I started painting a long time ago and the leather needs to match what I used to do the problem is the colors I used back then aren't made anymore so I had to make some substitutions and come up with this mix it doesn't matter too much but I'll show my original recipe on the screen if you're curious after the first coat dried I applied a second to deepen the color with these base coats applied now I'm going to start painting some highlights it may seem counterintuitive to start highlighting now before the other base coats are applied but the next couple highlights might get messy and I feel like I get better and cleaner results this way beginning with the armor thin down some bone white with a small amount of water I'm painting this over most of the armor and avoiding the recesses it may take a second layer to build up a smooth finish I want to build up the armor highlights with one more glaze using a mix of bone white and off-white off-white on its own is a little too light but mixing in a small amount of bone white makes it just right thin the paint with water and with very little paint on the brush add some subtle highlights to the armor mostly the face plate edges of the shoulder pads and top of the shoes since most of the armor is covered up by other details this step should be pretty fast and finally I picked out all the edges of the armor with white I really prefer to use a white paint That's strong and opaque valo game color and P3 are a couple of my favorites if you have a favorite white paint please share it in the comments below next I'm going to highlight the cloaks in two stages first is a quick glaz likee light with ogren camo I thinned it slightly with water and with barely any paint on the brush I highlighted some of the lighter green squares try to think about the folds on the fabric and where the light is hitting it and paint the highlights in just those areas the goal here is a soft subtle blend [Music] next we're going to do some more glaze highlights with C khaki thinned with some water with barely any paint on the brush add some highlights near the edges and raise portions of the folds notice how the paint is really transparent and barely changes the color of the cloak and that's exactly what we want there should be very little paint on the model and it should dry almost immediately it shouldn't run or flow anywhere and if it does that means you have too much paint on your brush work your way around the model and highlight the cloaks focusing on the most prominent edges by building up a lot of thin layers like this it will give the appearance of a blend without having to mix any colors the back of the cloaks are looking great so let's move on to the inside of them first I'm taking some black and painting the inside of the sleeves inside the hoods and along any edges where the cloak folds over on itself if you have a lot of confidence with the brush you can paint a really thin black line along the edge where the two halves meet I want to paint a soft highlight on the inside of the cloaks so I mixed equal parts of xandre dust and Bone white I thinned it slightly with water and painted some Thin glaze highlights on the folds just like the highlights on the back side a wet pet is great for these kinds of mixes since the paint will stay wet you won't have to worry about having to mix the color again [Music] then I picked out the edges of the cloak with bone White [Music] [Music] now it's time to tackle the leather and I'll be doing the first highlight in two stages thin some Doom bu brown with water and paint some soft highlights on the upward facing areas and near the edges remember that the brush will leave more paint where it last touches the model so if you end the brush stroke in the area that you want highlighted you can get a gradiation effect the second stage with doom bolt Brown is a fine Edge highlight all over [Music] for the next highlight I used scrag brown I made this highlight a little more narrow than the last going over most of the edges but putting more emphasis near the corners and for the final highlight I picked out the corners with tow light ochre a little bit can go a long way so I like to use it sparingly [Music] I want to paint the guns Black and Ash and gray will make a good base coat on my last video a viewer asked a great question about why I paint the black areas gray first so by now the guns have a bunch of different colors splashed on them and we have to cover that up first gray paint is more opaque than white and I can get a solid coat much faster with gray also the next layer will be black Templar and since it's a weaker strength paint it takes a couple layers over white and compared with gray it only takes one so in the end I think the gray paint is a matter of convenience speed and honestly I think it looks a little better too after the gray paint was dry I painted the weapons with black Templar just like with any other contrast paint wipe the brush on a paper towel and soak up any excess paint as needed [Music] with the black Templar still on my palette I painted a thin black line around the eyes and face masks and any remaining details when black lining it's almost impossible to avoid spilling some black paint so I try to angle the brush in a way to control the spill over in this case I'm trying my best to avoid making any mistakes on the white face mask and if some black paint spills on the rest of the helmet that's okay since I haven't painted it yet anyway I base coated the helmets with warpstone glow this color has very poor coverage and will take two or three layers for an even finish after I got the green paint nice and solid I mixed some black into the green and shaded around the helmet details next I base Co some of the weapon details with run Lord brass then I shaded them with agrax Earth shade [Music] now for some highlights I started off by highlighting the edges of the black areas with E and gray next I picked out some of the edges and Corners with dawn stone let's move on to the green take some moot green and thin it down slightly with water moot green is very transparent and I'm going to demonstrate a way of getting a gradiation kind of effect without any mixing with very little paint on the brush paint a line along the edge a little wider than you'd normally paint it notice how there's barely any paint being deposited on the model and it dries almost immediately since it's very transparent the base color is showing through then make a second pass along the same line but paint it slightly more narrow finally paint a third line along the edge as narrow as you can make it on really small details you can get away with just one highlight using undeleted paint I want to paint one last highlight on the green so I mixed in some toxic yellow with the moot green about equal parts and I painted it on the sharpest edges and Corners a little bit can go a long way so make sure to paint this highlight sparingly next I highlighted the edges of the brass areas with a mix of run Lord brass and storm host silver can optic alloy is pretty close but I prefer using the mix use whichever one you're comfortable with I want to go with purple for the gems and eyes and I'll be using an older method of painting them beginning with a base coat of black then I painted Phoenician purple over most of the gem concentrating more of the paint near the bottom I thinned the paint a little bit and applied it in two layers similar to how I highlighted the green armor earlier next I painted a mix of warlord purple and Phoenician purple on the lower half of the gems again trying to concentrate more of the paint near the bottom I used warlord purple on its own next making a crescent shape along the bottom third of the gem I mixed a little white into the warlord purple and added a slightly smaller Crescent inside the last one and finally I added a DOT of white on the top and a very thin line of white in the Crescent shape at the bottom I painted the eyes using the same colors except I skipped over the first purple mix usually I find that I can skip over some of the midtones if the area is small enough there are a few spots left on the model that I want to match the bone armor and I base coed those with bone white they're small enough that I won't bother with a shade after the bone white dried I painted a small dot of black inside the details on the back I glazed the top half of the details with the bone white and off-white mix from earlier in the video then I picked out the edges with white I used an old brush to apply wood glue to the bases then I sprinkled on a few pieces of coarse gravel and then dipped to the base in fine sand after the glue dried I painted the entire base with watered down black paint followed by a heavy dry brush of rhin oxide then a dry brush of mour fang Brown followed by bayor Brown I painted the rocks with dawn stone and shaded them with Agra Earth shade I dry brushed the rocks with dawn stone followed by a mix of dawn stone and Bone white I painted the edge of the base with rhin oxide and after that dried I applied a few patches of static grass with superglue the camo cloak pattern was a lot of fun to paint and I think it really complement the rest of the models I really enjoy using a variety of techniques as well some models benefit from one painting technique more than others one technique may be faster and look better on one part of the model and it may be a better idea to use a completely different technique on another section are there any techniques you want to improve on which techniques would you like to see more of leave a comment below and I'll do my best to address them in a future video if you haven't done so yet don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss out on future content well that's it for now thanks for watching and until next time happy painting

Channel: Matt's Hobby Hour

Views: 12,034

Keywords: warhammer, warhammer community, painting, art, artlesson, warhammer 40k, oldhammer, games workshop, gamesworkshop, contrast paint, citadel colour, minipainting, miniatures, scalemodel, how to paint, army painting, spacemarines, 'eavymetal, 'eavy metal, eldar, biel tan, biel-tan, aeldari, aeldari craftworlds, craftworlds

Id: dhxLpCIT1W0

Length: 27min 16sec (1636 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 17 2024