Contrast Hacks! Painting a Spawn of Chotec for Warhammer Age of Sigmar | Seraphon Tutorial

hi everyone my name is Matt and welcome to my Channel today let's paint this saraon spawn of chch using contrast paints after assembling the model I primed it using my favorite method of gray primer all over followed by a spray of white from the top and sides the result is a subtle zenial Style undercoat with white on the top blending to Gray on the underside because this model is so low to the ground it would be really difficult to paint the underside while it's attached to the base so instead of gluing it to the base I drilled a hole into the foot and attached a piece of paper clip with super glue after the glue dried I stuck the model on a cork which will make it easier to hold and access the underside for the first layer on the model I'm using an equal parts mix of skeleton horde and contrast medium I like to transfer my paints to dropper bottles which makes it really easy to mix custom colors just count the number of drops and you can mix the same color again every time when a applying contrast paints I like to work on one section at a time flood the area with paint and make sure it gets in every detail the paint will naturally flow and collect into the recesses some pooling is good for creating shading but too much can lead to problems I like to wipe the brush off on a paper towel and then soak up any excess paint before I move on to the next section the skeleton horde mix is all dry and it will make a nice base coat for the next layers I want to bring some yellow into the model next and candora yellow shade paint will work out great I don't want the colors to be too bright and since this yellow is a very transparent color that means that a lot of the undercoat will show through and help subdue the brightness there's one spot on the neck where I want to have a highlight and blend it effect like the box art it's real easy to blend contrast and shade paints while they're still wet just paint a small section rinse the brush wipe it on a paper towel and then run the clean brush along the edge of the paint to blend it out apply the paint just like a contrast paint apply a generous layer one section at a time and soak up any excess pooling with all the yellow applied I'm going to keep working from light to dark and building up the layers next I put some Griff Hound orange on the the palette and began painting the scales I'm avoiding the line of scales on his side those will stay yellow like the box art blending is a big part of this stage and the fin on his back is a great way to demonstrate the technique using an old large brush apply some paint at the bottom of the fin rinse the brush wipe it on a paper towel and then run the clean brush over the edge to blend out the color rinse and repeat a few times as needed until the blend is smooth you can vary the brush marks as well I like to use a mix of side to side tapping and scrubbing type brush Strokes you have to work fast so if you're just starting out I'd recommend working on one small section at a time and get some practice in after painting and blending all the orange areas I went back with a fine brush and added a little bit of shading next to the ribs of the fin next it's time to build up depth and darken the scales some more and for that I'll be using carberg Crimson shade paint apply it just like the other layers working one section at a time and apply a generous amount of paint before soaking up any excess I want to darken the scales and legs more so next I painted a layer of NL [Music] oil after the NL oil dried I painted a second layer you might want a few more layers depending on how dark you'd like your model to be next I used black Templar to paint the feet and Blended the paint using the same technique as before rinse the brush wipe it on a paper towel and then blend out the edge with the clean brush the yellow areas are looking kind of flat so I painted a quick shade with seraphim sepia [Music] next I painted the mouth with sigvald burgundy I found it's faster and easier to just paint the teeth rather than try to avoid them we'll pick them out with opaque paint later I'm I'm not sure what these things are maybe they're leaves the box art has them painted red so that's what I'll do I used a mix of Flesh Terror red and black Templar this is a color I mixed up for my tyranids and if you want to see how to mix up a whole pot of a custom color check out this video here next up is the most distinctive part of this model the markings along his back and his head crest for this I'm using black Templar with a little black paint mixed into it to increase the opacity and thickness you could just as easily use black Templar on its own or the more opaque black Legion contrast paint I'm just kind of making the marks at random you could copy the pattern on the box if you like or just make up your own once the black dried I applied a second coat for an even finish with the black paint still on my palette I painted the eyes and outlined the remaining details next let's move on to the detail on his head and the tail band and we'll base coat those with fenzi and gray making sure to avoid the black outline we just painted these areas will have a green marble kind of effect similar to how I painted the scar veteran on agdon if you haven't seen that video yet check it out here while I had some fizzi and gray on my palette I went ahead and painted the eyes making sure to leave a thin black outline around them then I painted in the pupils with black for the marble effect I'll be using dark Angel's green contrast paint along with two brushes one brush for applying the paint and an older brush for wiping some away Begin by painting a small area with the green paint and then set aside the brush pick up the other brush which is dry and wipe away some of the green paint do it in one stroke if you can it should leave a few highlights behind if you're happy with the result switch back to the first brush and repeat the process on the next section [Music] [Music] after working my way around the model and allowing the green to dry I took a brush with a fine point and painted some Thin lines on the marble surface try varying the direction and thickness of the lines next I picked out all the teeth with bone White at this stage you could base the model and call it finished but since I'm only painting one of these and not 100 of them I'm going to go ahead and paint some highlights let's tackle the rest of the green marble first I used a brush with a very fine tip and picked out all the edges of the marble with cyber Rite green next I thinned down some white paint with about equal parts water and with barely any paint on the brush I picked out the very edges and corners of the marble white is a big jump in value from the last highlight which means it would look out of place so to compensate for that I've thinned down the paint a lot thin paint is more transparent and it will allow more of the base coat color to show through however thin paint has a tendency to flow off the brush very easily so for a general rule the thinner your paint is the less you want on your brush by thinning the white paint and having very little of it on the brush we're making a transparent highlight that looks like a light green color without having to mix something you can even highlight further by applying a second layer on the corners effectively getting two stages of highlights out of just one color with all that talk about transparent paint in mind let's highlight the black parts of the fin with storm ver and fur thin down the paint with water similar to the white and paint paint some Thin layers near the edges of the black areas just like with the white this gray is a pretty big jump up in value from black and by thinning it we can get some dark gray highlights without having to mix a bunch of Shades I like to hop around on the model paint an area and move on to the next then go back after the first area dries and paint another layer eventually and with enough layers you can build up a nice gradiation with pure storm verm and fur on the edges I also used some undiluted storm verman fur and picked out the edges of the claws now it's time for the scales it can be a little timec consuming but sometimes I like to highlight the edges of scales with a lighter color in this case wild Rider red makes for a great highlight color rather than highlight each scale evenly I like to highlight some more than others and some not at all think about the way the light is hitting the model make the Highlight lines thicker where you want the most light and then make the lines thinner and gradually fade away from those areas [Music] for the next highlight I used fire dragon and I painted it the same way as the last highlight only covering a smaller surface area a little bit can go a long way so make sure to keep the brush marks small and restrict them to the areas you want to look the brightest finally I thinned some off-white with an equal amount of water and highlighted the edges of the teeth and the yellow areas just like with the orange highlight a little bit can go along way so try and keep them reserved to maximize the impact I'm painting the highlights mostly around the eyes and face and a little bit near the hips and the center of the fins I also painted a tiny highlight on the edges of the claws I base coated the rock with dawnstone just because it will be more difficult to access later once I've glued on the base I drilled a small hole in the base and then attached the model with super glue I attached some pieces of cork to the base with super glue and then used an old brush to apply some texture paint while the paint was still wet I sprinkled on some coarse gravel and fine sand after the texture paint dried I painted the whole base with rhin oxide followed by a dry brush of mour fang Brown and then bayor Brown I painted the rocks with dawn stone shaded them with agrax Earth shade and then dry brushed them with dawn stone followed by a mix of dawn stone and Bone white I painted the edge of the base with black and after that dried I applied patches of Clump foliage and static grass with super glue and here's the finished spawn of jtech and I have to say it was a lot of fun to paint especially the pattern on the back and the head Crest I think this color scheme would look great on some skinks and sorus too maybe I'll have to try that next speaking of skinks next week I'll have a guide all about painting the skinks from this set but if you're watching in the future I'll put in a link right here for you to see the video anyway that's it for now thanks for watching and until next time happy painting

Channel: Matt's Hobby Hour

Views: 13,464

Keywords: warhammer, warhammer community, painting, art, artlesson, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, warhammer the old world, oldhammer, games workshop, gamesworkshop, contrast paint, citadel colour, minipainting, miniatures, scalemodel, ageofsigmar, seraphon, lizardmen, spawn of chotec, salamander, dinosaur

Id: UKabyTU3QPM

Length: 19min 57sec (1197 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 27 2024