How to Paint BLOOD ANGELS | CREATING A COLOUR SCHEME | Old School | WARHAMMER: The Horus Heresy

hi everyone it's Henry here and in this video I'm going to take you through how I would approach painting up a new space rine Army for Horus heresy for that matter any Marine Army and to a degree any other sort of army the idea is to try and take advantage of the massive heresy Buzz I'm on at the moment but also to answer frequent questions that I'm asked whether it's at events or whether it's comments in the on the YouTube video and whatnot of basically how do I pick the scheme what what paints do I pick why do I pick them um and particularly in part two so next week's video how I translate a infantry scheme and infantry scheme onto a vehicle so for this I've chosen uh blood angels it's uh red is one of my favorite armies and I think I I really tried to approach this from a high level gaming Army so something that I would want to be getting best army nominations for something looks good in the hand but also looks good you know 3ot away or whatever and I wanted to sort of echo or or pay homage to that lovely orangey red blood Angel scheme that we used to get back in Rogue trade and and second edition and and to a degree the the visions of heresy stuff so that's what I've gone for with this I hope you enjoy it let's [Applause] paint so as I say I wanted to pick a an orangey red scheme we've done a bunch of blood Angel schemes in the past but I wanted to do something new we haven't done them for a few years and I've got a real sort of thing at the moment for that sort of visions of heresy ear or or older sort of Throwbacks um it's just what excites me at the minute and obviously with the Mark 6 Marines they they've got that lovely you know original rb1 uh look anyway so I got my big bag of red paints out and uh started going through them really uh discarding any of the ones that were sort of a pinky red and then there's certain ones like this like this Chimera Orange it's actually a really good color close to what I was wanting but it's not particularly user friendly paint and if I'm going to do an army then I want paints that I can easily get hold of I can easily replace and that are generally Pleasant to work with without too much faffing um so so discarding any of those that didn't fit the bill there I thought evil Sun Scarlet would probably be pretty pretty decent um you can see here I've got a couple of scale paints uh for sort of FR Edge highlights as like they might work it doesn't matter that they're not you know that great in the airbrush or anything w're going to do that uh wild Rider red that looks spoton uh to be honest with you and I was trying to go into this with no sort of PR preconceived ideas of the ones to use just sort of look at the colors and make the decisions from there again fire dragon bright does what it says it's an orange orange one as is this P3 uh Kor red highlight very similar color but again in the UK P3 paint's not so easy to find so that was potentially a something to consider um so when KN it down I have this sort of handful here and I'm taking you through as literally as I as I was desiging it just put the camera on um so here's my sort of Citadel Reds and I like using Citadel paints simply because they they're easy to get a hold of um you know most people can reach them and and the majority of the videos I do for YouTube are are recipe videos you know that people enjoy enjoy following or apparently do and it was really nice seeing s of meeting people at the weekend actually that that have used schemes and gone on to make their armies um so yeah I'm discarding the fire dragon bright there cuz he's just sort of too orange as it were then I've got that gold Brown and this yellowish rust uh panz races those are nice those are sort of very s desaturated oranges um I thought they could they could work quite well for the edge highlight again the the Kad or red cardor red just bit too too orange uh and then these other two scale ones just too dark basically um I don't hate that one I think it's Kalahari but uh this is flat flesh by model color actually thought that would end up being the perfect Edge highlight uh but on the tester it it was a little bit too um was just too bright really for my tastes and this little handful I've got here ended up being the trio of paints that I used um I say at this point I thought flat flesh would probably be the one um which is why whenever I'm developing a scheme even if it's just for the videos and nothing for me I do a bunch of test models not entire models but when it's a marine the armor is the most important part I think um so getting that right is the key you know the rest we can we can almost do on the fly so I did a couple of testers here trying out the Reds and the highlights and the major difference between the two here is the the guy with the chain bear net on his Bolter has a metallic base coat and the guy on the right um does not has a traditional grayscale you know black through white um appreciate everything else of them is exactly the same and I liked that sort of brighter finish I seem to get from the metal base coat even though we're not going to use clears or anything like that so we Bas coat the model uh over a black primer I'm using dur aluminium it's a metal color ser uh paint I always add a little drop of flow Aid when I'm airbrushing this I spray about 20 to 25 psi I'm using a 0.4 mm need and nozzle this is in our harder and steam Beck Signature Series Evolution and I'm just wning pretty much full coverage I suppose it's zenial in a sense of maybe the very very sort of lowest darkest deepest recesses are still the black primer but it wasn't a concern it was just to give it a shiny a fairly neutral sort of shiny base uh and then I'm going to cover the entire model using uh mephiston red now I've thinned this about about 50/50 maybe a tiny bit more thinner than paint um just to get it going through and in the end what I wanted was two or three layers to create my base coat so I didn't want to do it in a wner but equally I didn't want to be there for ages you know building up so I built that up there two or three coats and you can see there's not too much sort of nuance or anything to it just gone straight over that silver and at the moment I'm not loving super high value contrast uh schemes so that's not what I'm going for with this now my main highlight or my only airbrush highlight is going to be wild Rider red I've thin this slightly more than I thin the mephiston uh so probably closer to two drops of thinner to one drop of paint and I am focusing on the shapes that are on the model I'm not overly worrying about a specific directional light source uh other than sort of from above so where the shoulder pad is a sort of cylinder and a sphere at the top that's how I'm highlighting it up and I'm trying to sort of make the center of the panels a little brighter on the hole you can see it's really quite a broad highlight I'm doing there's not a huge amount of that methon left and what I do is I go in and I do sort of an initial highlight I'll let that dry and I'll come back in and I'll make it a little bit more intense with a second one you can see here versus the one on the right on the right it's pure methon on on the left we have that wild Rider highlight you can see it see completely changes it and I love it I think this was just what I wanted it was that sort of desaturated orange red that I was going for so now we'll just fast forward and I'll do the other the other one at the same time and the reason I'm doing two is because when I've more or less decided on a scheme I always try and practice it uh on a couple of models just to see how it translates to Army painting anyone can paint one model up quickly I wanted to see how it would translate to a couple because I'm not actually doing an army of this you know I potentially I would do this on say five Marines and see sort of how long it took me if there was anything I wanted to change uh during the process um that I learned from doing that and I want to say a quick thank you to those of you that support us over on patreon it means a huge amount to myself and Andy um your support there means that both of us can do this fulltime now so obviously on top of the classes the Miniatures the paint range youve got coming out we're also producing content over here on YouTube and on patreon each week different sorts of projects patreon tends to be multi art series as Andy's just starting a lumineth figure he's doing at the moment over on there that'll probably be two 3 weeks worth of videos as opposed to YouTube here where they tend to be sort of one shot one shot videos you can see I've just compared the two there I felt I have gone too broad with the highlights uh on this guy so I'm just going back in with the methon just to bring a little bit of that color back into the Shadows but yeah huge thank you to those of you that support us over there and if for any reason you can't support us on patreon then like subsscribe comment share all of that over here on YouTube make a huge difference as well and I really really do appreciate all of that support so I've thinned the meth on maybe a touch more than I did the first time I say and it's I'm only doing this because I haven't bothered doing it on the Bolter guy because I felt I had the the amounts correct um between the the highlight color and the shadow color so now I want to do the decals so I'm going to give the model a coat gloss varnish I usually give it sort of probably three or four coats of varnish on the areas where I want to apply the decals but I'll link up in the top a video dedicated to doing that and when the decal process was complete I wanted to give the armor a more or less its final finish uh this stage even though there's a lot of painting still to do I wanted a more Satin finish that's what I'm enjoying at the moment rather than the very very matte finish that I've done in the past and for that I'm using ammo Mig lucky matte varnish which all matte varnishes have a s finish anyway so um that was what I liked for this one so once that was dry it was time to do a little bit of battle damage so for this I was going to do some chipping and I've taken that yellowish rust color now I know it's the layer of just or are updating their model color line which this is part of I don't know if that's going to be in the upcoming line or not so I would probably look to see if there's say a citadel uh equivalent uh to this out which I'm sure there is theyve tons and tons of different sort of Flesh colors um and and sort of orangey Browns and things like that so I'm sure they would be an equivalent in there I haven't bothered looking because I have an entire bottle of this paint so it's the one I'm using uh and then bit of sponging and then going in with my brush uh and just taking my time and I'm working around sort of Tippy tappy chips sort of along most of the edges so it's kind of edge highlighting uh coupled with with battle damage and this is I say the look I'm I'm enjoying at the moment I blocked everything else in Black that I was going to do metal or black and I felt at this stage that the chipping could do with just a little more uh so I've gone in with a color called Dark rust here which is a dark brown color and I'm just doing a few little darker chips here and there uh to suggest s of deeper uh areas of damage uh to the armor probably taking me well I don't well this is real time it's taking me what a minute per miniature to do uh and one of the big Takens we'll talk about the end is is sort of the time uh involved in the project and why it's why it's important so once that was done I went and painted the metal parts and for this I chose metal color series uh exhaust manifold which is a sort of dirty Brown silver color I've already deliberately wanted to steer clear of any Silvers that were too blue uh because of how that will affect how the red looks um I wanted that sort of dirtier dirtier color on the silver so I've done this on all the metal Parts including the guns and I say for the the guns one of my favorite looks is is just pure metal I like that sort of stamped stamped look and then I was uming and aing and I thought oh I'm going to I'm going to have a bit of a nod to that old school kind of got to have yellow yellow chain swords and Hazard stripes and stuff so I'd put it off and put it off and I was just about to do this chainsaw all metal and I thought no come on don't be a coward um paint it up get it done it it'll be worth it so I've just mastered the model off using a bit of cling film um and then very very simple just base coating the chainsaw white and I'm here I'm using Tamia flat white in my airbrush use whatever white you like to use but Tamia's my favorite so thinned it about two drops of thinner to paint with a Tamia thinner then once that was dry I had to look through all my yellows and I felt that the bad moon yellow contrast paint was a really nice match of that sort of second editions yellow that we saw on the wonderful you know furiosa dreadn and and the casings we got on those those earlier Marines and then to give it just a little bit of sort of uh interest I didn't want to fully Hazard stripe the entire chainsword um because that this isn't meant to be a retro scheme this is just meant to have little inspired elements uh from the older sort of Rog Trader second edition stuff but I want it to look how I enjoy my heresy stuff to look at the moment so I put just a couple of little black stripes on um near the top and I felt that was that was enough of a nod uh for the chipping I've just gone straight in with white and I'm doing s of lots of chips here cuz I figur the chainsword will have more on it and then when that was dry I just go back in with the bad moon yellow the reason I didn't find another yellow to do it with was one I wanted to try and keep the paints down to an absolute minimum when I'm doing Army painting um but also it would change the yellow too much and I really really liked this color um so by doing the white then going over it you could see the chips and stuff but it was still that lovely bad moon yellow and then I go back in with dart rust do a load more chips uh with that so it didn't didn't take long and and it's absolutely worth it in my opinion you know it's it's uh it's a fairly eye-catching element to the miniature and I'm using here the resin uh despoiler upgrades on that on that Mark 6 so here we can see them so took a little look at both of them at this stage how we doing cuz we're about to go in with oils um it's very simple all the black Parts you can see are just just black I use V model color black at the moment because that's the one I like or the one that I can buy that I like um and yeah I'm pretty happy simple the red is what matters um yeah very happy very very happy I almost forgot uh to pop a wash over the metal parts so this is just watered down rattling Grime so again it's one thing I've learned from from doing a lot of armies and doing things like is is giving yourself points during the process to to literally sit and just look at the models and just think you know have I missed something and in this case I I had missed an obvious an obvious step now it's time for the oil wash now I'm choosing to use sepia here by absolon 502 um that is because it is a very dark cold brown color which is exactly what I wanted um I didn't want this to be none of this scheme other than obviously the bright yellow chainsword none of the scheme is meant to be particularly in your face it's none of it's meant to be particularly high contrast or particularly saturated colors in any way um that's not my cup of tea as I say as opposed to the the exception being the um the yellow chains s there um and to thin it down into a wash I'm using mineral spirits here um I knew initially it was far too thin so I added a bit more painting I'm just going to get a bit of plasticard here for you to see uh the thickness of the wash that I'm going to go for so you can see it's fairly translucent but I don't think I'll probably have to do more than one coat of this to get the um the intensity of the color I want in the shadows and I'm going to cover the entire miniature but I'm ending my brush Strokes Trying to end my brush Strokes always in recesses so I'm not leaving much of the paint on any of the flat surfaces um but it is getting a little bit so it's creating an Ever So slight filter over the whole thing which will just help to Grime it up a little just dull that satin finish down a touch further cuz this oil paint dries with quite a matte finish and obviously make sure I'm going over all the metals as as well let say the entire miniature gets gets a coat of this and then I live this left this night but after about an hour it would be about this stage one of the reasons I like using these oils cuz they dry relatively quickly and then I just go in with a clean brush and just tidy up anything I have to if I've got a collection of the oil anywhere that I don't want it I can just sort of clean it up a little but as I say I got that washed just about the right consistency where there wasn't much cleanup required looking pretty nice I think or I'm happy anyway at this stage again it's more or less now the finishing touches stage so I know I've obviously got the eye lenses to go I felt at this stage that the black elements needed a little more to them I will often just leave black areas like the connective ribbing and stuff black uh and then using the brown oil washed I find often gives them enough uh interest um but this wasn't quite right and and this was how I would approach painting an army for me you may think this looks great or you'd be happy with it in which case leave it at this point but I wanted to give it a little more and again this was really inspired by seeing so many phenomenal armies at the weekend at the event seeing where people had taken that that step further because it was their passion you know um so I've just gone in with ashing gray and done a few little Edge highlights on the black elements and for the silvers I go in with a MIG gunmetal dry brush paint and I'm kind of buffing them really with this and I just find it takes the edge off the washes that You' put on already and just just brings that that sort of nice silver color back uh and then I do the same this time with a light metal uh less of a a dry brush of this just trying to catch the edges this is a very very bright silver so this is our highlight the previous one I say was just to bring the color back this is very much uh to pick out those edges and I absolutely love how this looks I love how simple it is as a process but I love the finish and I love metallics um for me me it's it's like a quintessential Warhammer thing is is having some metallics on there and really it as is red I think Red's probably my favorite favorite armor color um so yeah a lot of lot of fun doing this scheme and then errors obviously I can't get with a dry brush I will go in with a normal detail brush things like the bonding studs on the shoulder pad just put the little highlight on each of those again just thinking where would the light reflect you know going to be the sort of top edge of them I also felt that I could pick out some of the uh yellowish rust highlights again they've been dulled back obviously by the uh the oil wash so I've just gone into a few key areas mainly around the head so the helmet the tops of the shoulder pads uh the chest just to brighten those up a little uh and and again I think these are steps are worth it nothing I'm doing here I feel is Superfluous to the finish that I want on the miniature I think everything we've done since that oil wash it is very much an extra that you do if you want to do um but for me it's it's it's worth it now for the ey lenses I've done these the same way I did them on andri har the video I did last week they're based off a way I did on a Raptor Marine a year or so ago uh for the badab playlist uh that's on there and it's based from a color plate from the badab books the old forell books essentially I've gone in with a dark green on all of the lenss then I'm going to use a lighter Green in this case I use cite green to draw a little line along the bottom edge of the lens and then I gradually get brighter adding mot green into that to try and create a sort of brightest spot in the middle and then a little dot above it turns out it's not the easiest thing to film I'm getting better but it's not the easiest thing to film but I try to leave as much in as I can and do you know what the biggest thing this has taught me doing this is that I need to sit and paint properly for a bit I have been rattling through YouTube videos for such a long time trying to produce simple fairly easy to replicate schemes that it's meant I've I might do one lens for the video and then I'm moving on to the next thing which might not have a lens or whatever what I need to do is sit down bang out squad or two of Marines or something and just just practice my finer brush skills again because they they've got a little sloppy um and I just need yeah just need to get that that mode control back and it will come back nice and quickly um but it's uh it was frustrating but also good you know I want to I want to identify where weaknesses are um it's so easy to deskill I find if you don't if you aren't constantly doing different techniques um so yeah I absolutely am committing to doing a high-end gaming Army this year um if not two just to get get back there here you can see I'm going in with the Moot and the focus starts to go you know all over the shop and as is always the way you know one on the right there's going fairly well pretty happy with that uh and the one on the left is just giving me no end of bother um just sploding crosy nonsense I can't I Just Can't Get Right um so when this happens uh I tend to think the best thing to do is just you know have a cup of tea and uh and come back to it and that's exactly what I did um yeah got there got got there in the end um the basing I've done exactly the same way as I did on Ida last week so if you want to check that out you can uh have a look at that video or I suspect next month I'm hoping to give you an update on my solo project I think this is how I'm going to do the bases uh on them so I will I'll do a slightly more thorough uh tutorial whatever you want to call it um on those but yeah here we go so what were the aims you know what was the intention of this of this project as it were so was to take through how I would develop a scheme and then take it on to armor it just so happens that I discovered an awful lot about what I enjoy about painting during this um and I honestly think these are two of the best heresy Marines I have ever painted um the the processes the the steps the colors are so few um everything has been chosen very very deliberately to have an impact to every single St stage but I feel that they look weathered and dirty and battle worn um which is how I like but I also think they look interesting from 3ot away which is key they don't look messy it's easy to identify everything that's on the miniature so yeah from that point of view very very happy the orangey red that we wanted we we've achieved with a a handful of paints um and again I think what helped contribute to that was that nice bright metallic uh base just helping to to bring that color up slightly but then also not just slopping oils all over it or washes all over it or or making sure we give thoughts to the the colors that surround it as well so I haven't gone for anything that would deliberately contrast very heavily with this reding in any way Tred to keep everything fairly dull now another reason I've chosen the Mark 6 is because these are basically the simplest Marine Miniatures you can find there's nothing on them really as you can see so when it comes to painting things like pouches for leather you know some some some uh tabards anything like that those will come down the line but I don't need those on a test model my test models are here to tell me is the most important part of this scheme the armor is it right yes it absolutely is I can figure out what brown or black or whatever to do the leather and stuff on them when I get to a miniature that has that on it but again personally I don't glue anything like that on on my line troops anyway I save that for veterans and characters things as easy ways to help um distinguish them from it but yes the largest learning point for me with this is if you want a nice looking Army you've got to take time to get there as I say I've I've focused so heavily on just smashing through things for the last few years on YouTube generally don't get me wrong sometimes it's a project I take a bit more time on but but generally for YouTube last few years trying to build the channel it's it's week after week after week something new something new and I think consequently I've deskilled a little bit and I need to address that I need to be pushing myself so I'm going to commit to you guys get to myself Endeavor to spend a little bit of personal time what I have on trying to sharpen those skills up uh and I think we've got to a stage now I feel with YouTube where where we have quite a a committed incredibly supportive group of of people watching it and I think that you're you're pretty happy for these projects to be a little bit more thorough a little bit more in-depth um so what I will try and do with most schemes from now on is uh sort of do the the basics for one of a better term and then potentially take it a step further as a sort of if you want to push this a bit this is what you can do now I don't think anything I've done to push these is particularly complicated it is simply more timec consuming the lenses for instance once you're in the groove you'll be smashing those out but it was frustrating I could have done them way easier simpler ways than this but I think the overall effect is good it's not quite right when I look at that Raptor I did it's much nicer execution but I can get there five six Marines I'll get there with that it be absolutely fine so as I say next week we're going to paint up a predator Games Workshop has sent me through that um B Predator upgrade kit uh for review so I'm going to build up a blood Angel's predator and we'll we'll paint that up with that um and we'll look at how do we translate this up to vehicles and the other elements on the vehicles how will we do those as well so if you got any questions about anything I've done in this video I'd really love you to pop them down in the comments as I say I almost want this to be like a not a fresh start but uh the next chapter as it were in how we're going to be doing stuff here over on YouTube so I say a little bit more thoroughly um and I hope I've explained my decisions for everything that I've done on this uh and most importantly you know let me know if you've enjoyed it so thanks ever so much for all of your support take care and I'll see you next time if you've liked any of the models in this video and you fancy having an army of them yourself but perhaps you don't have the time or wherewithal to get it done consider dropping us an email at commissions C of paint.com and maybe Ben can sort you out

Channel: Cult of Paint

Views: 18,622

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Id: 9MNjpTzFD-0

Length: 26min 32sec (1592 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 18 2024