COMPLETE DRYWALL TAPING PROCESS FOR REMODELS

hi welcome to Vancouver carpenter my name's Ben the suspiciously drywaller a carpenter I wanted to make a video that showed my full process of taping a drywall job so the first thing I like to do is I like to prep all of my joints so right here what I'm doing is I'm carving out a little V in all of the joints that I'm worried about potentially cracking so this is a large ceiling and I want to make sure that there's plenty of mud in these joints and same with that one I'm joining a bulkhead to another piece next I'm gonna go around and I'm gonna start scraping off loose paper and doing all the work I need to do to make sure that I don't get any blisters so here I am and it's a fair bit of work scraping all this stuff off sometimes it's actually easier just to replace that piece of drywall but we just need to make it good enough for tile next I'm going to apply for an oil-based paint the whole point of this is to make sure that the brown paper doesn't blister when you apply a coat of mud to it so I'm really making sure that I'm actually getting paint under all the little flaps and everything to really want to saturate that here I'm getting ready to start patching all the little holes so I'm putting mesh tape on all the small patches and any patch again that I'm not terribly worried about cracking down the road because I don't think anything can really happen to these ones so it's mesh tape and just use my knife to tear it off real quick and easy some of these joints behind the backsplash they're never gonna crack and they're gonna be covered in tile so mesh tape will be good enough for here okay next it's time to mix up the con fill so this is just a lightweight setting type compound and here I'm putting on the tradesmen special mask it's the most widely used mask in the industry a little more water mix it up so this mud has a small aggregate in it it's a soft aggregate like a pearlite and it also has fiberglass in it which helps gives it strength it's used generally for coating concrete I'm gonna start pre filling everything and also filling this stuff with mesh tape and so right here you can see I mean we've got some joints that are open and we haven't spent a lot of time flushing the board up to make it really flush but what we do is it's faster to just pre fill this with con fill and we've got time for drying on this job so it's not going to be a problem and at the same time with the same mix I'm gonna be coding all of the things that I put mesh tape on so all the little small patches all around the job which always happens when the electricians have come by they turn the place into Swiss cheese you know here's another good example of a patch we didn't spend much time on just get a piece of board in it and pre fill it and now it's time to put con fill over the backsplash area where all that paper that might blister that we paint it is and I find that you know a nice coat of this stuff gives a nice flat surface for applying tile so there's two reasons I like to use con fill especially at the beginning of the job the aggregate didn't makes it really good for floating out surfaces very evenly and the other thing is so over a surface like this it's really bubbly so when you apply a nice even layer the bubbles have a hard time coming back through over the hard or quick set once it sets up start pre filling any of the open joints that need it sometimes when your patch is a little too gnarly to put mesh tape on right away you do that pre fill so here it is it's set up and I go and put mesh tape over that patch so we've patched another hole in the ceiling so sometimes it's a two-step process I'll get a nice even coat on it please tell me I'm not gonna leave it like that no good so now the next step before actually applying corner beat and tape is I have to go around and scrape off any little niblets that I've left from the pre-fill and it is corner bead time so how I like to do my corner beads is I don't run around with the tape measure I just hold the piece up to where it needs to be cut and get a much more accurate measurement so it's faster and more accurate and I cut as many of them as I can all at one time so I get them all laid up ready to go I like to do all my corner beads first because I like to have my tapes overlap on to my corner beads I find it just makes it stronger and reduces callbacks over time you don't get those little one-inch cracks at the tops and bottoms of your corners and it is now time to mix up a box taping mud and I also like to do the corner beats first because I like my mud thicker for corner B and you can always add more water to make it thinner for taping but I can't make it thicker once it's too thin for corner beats so I'm filling up my hopper I love this thing once I have like maybe ten or more beads I'd like to bring it out I might spend just as much time washing it but it's such a useful tool so then I'm gonna run around and I'm gonna stick all my corner beads on all at the same time I'll usually just do one area at a time and put as many corner beads on as I can and you have to be pretty quick about it because the drywall is gonna start sucking the moisture out of the mud and then it's gonna be harder to squeeze it out with your knife after so here I am just kind of setting them making sure they're square before I start wiping the excess mud out actually enjoy setting beads quite a bit it's satisfying so I don't always level my beads but this little nook needs to be just right so for all these corners I brought my level out the eyeball isn't good enough sometimes so once these sides are set then I'm able to cut these little ones that go in between because you don't know exactly where your beads are gonna wind up I mean they usually add about 1/8 to a small 8 onto your corners and it's really hard to actually factor that in so what you need to do is you need to get the sides on first and then you can actually cut the horizontal ones to link so one of my little tricks for these is during the taping coat what I actually do is I put a little mud on the intersections because I find when you do that what it means is they get three coats by the time the job's finished and it just helps make them perfect and now it is time for taping so this is called the super taper it's what we use up north here and we just slop a whole bunch of tape into a bucket run around and kind of paper mache it onto the walls and I know you guys that use a bazooka are gonna say what are you guys doing up there but you know what it's pretty cheap it's easy it's low maintenance and it's easy on the body so that's what I like to do and here we are slapping that tape on the ceiling we've got a bunch of weird joints from ripping the bulkheads out of the ceiling here and all these weird bulkheads that I'm having to tape around and build those are all there because of pipes so I also like to do the little short angle tapes while I'm taping all the other ones at the same time have a knife in hand I don't use my special tools for the short little tapes I do them at the same time as all the flats and buttons one of the nice things about the super taper is that mud is really wet and it wipes out from the tape real nice and easy so here I am I also do the corners with the super taper I've tried a lot of other methods and over the years I found this to just be really quick low maintenance and it gets it done real nice and quick I roll it out with a nice blue line corner roller I find the rolling with the corner roller makes all the difference gives it a nice crease and then I use a two and a half inch flusher it's just a nice quick pass angles were never easier corner tools are money well spent and then I wipe up the threeways right-hand side all the first time and sometimes there's a bunch of little patches left over that I didn't feel like cutting out and I just slop some tapes over them it'll be pretty awesome once there's a tile backsplash covering it what's the mud dries that's on the tape behind it actually makes it kind of hard so you could actually coat over it and you won't get any blisters and I coat the screws last because once you put your corner beads on and taped all your butts and flats then there's less screws to coat and I always make sure I coat the screws with taping mud or width on it fill day two and it is time to coat the ceilings and I often start with the things I want to do the least so I've started with the ceilings and what we are doing is we are coating over a glossy paint orange peel texture so it coats out pretty easy because the orange peel texture is not very thick and we didn't have to do any scraping or any sanding but the glossy paint is going to cause me problems down the road even though it hurts my shoulder and neck there's still something pretty satisfying about coating ceilings it's the sanding that gets me and once the ceilings are done I just kind of worked my way around the site so here I am working on the beads and I don't always have an order for what I do with whether it's corner beads or butts or flats I often just kind of do one wall at a time one area at a time and move to the next that way I'm not doing as many laps around the jobsite I'm just basically finishing one area at a time and moving on to the next I also find that when I do that I do less laps around the job site when you're going around and you're doing all the bot joints first and then you're going around to doing all the corner beads next and then you're going around and doing all the flat joints next what I find is you can actually do a lot more mileage around the jobsite instead of just staying in one spot and putting mud on corner beads are fun I actually really like doing first coat on corner beads it goes pretty nice and quick you don't have to make it too pretty you just get the mud on there and don't take too much off so day three I hate sanding so much if I never have to sand drywall again for the rest of my life it'll be okay but once the sanding is done then I get decoding the angles so here's the mud tube the big giant mud syringe so first you apply the mud into the corner with a mud applicator that's got a couple of wheels and it rolls across the room and you just kind of slop the stuff out into the corners but it does have to be even or you're gonna make a big mess that's not the mess that's before you put the flusher on it and then I go with a three and a half inch blusher and smooth it all out nice and smooth these are the ten flushers so they are not the $400 tools they are the $100 tools and with the amount of drywall I do they've lasted me a long time and they still give a really nice result so what do you do with that mess in the corner as well you go around and you pull it out again but usually I'll do the left-hand side of each one and it looks like I kind of forgot that day and did the right-hand side again I guess I needed another coffee and now it's time to skin the ceilings and everything else on the job out again so this time you have to spend a lot more time and attention in getting a really nice smooth finish and because of the glossy paint it's a real headache it bubbles like crazy so usually I like to leave a fairly thick coat on so there's a little meat left to sand but when you're skimming over previously painted surfaces even if it's the second or sometimes third coat it's gonna bubble like crazy careful of that sprinkler so here's those bubbles they're the bane of my existence I have killed my shoulder skimming out walls and ceilings eliminating bubbles and here's the walls so I did all the other flats and joints and buds and beads and everything but I'm just showing you a little more wall repair and stuff like this was a cracked but joint on the existing wall and you have to really press down and skim it super hard so you can't leave the meat on the mud that I'd like to you got to really scrape it off so you better have your first coat nice and smooth there you're gonna be seeing all those inconsistencies so that was the final coat and next day it is sanding day again and you saw I had three sanding poles well I start with this one it's an angled sanding sponge that attaches to a sanding pole and this again was money well spent it really cut my time sanding angles in half and I don't spend anywhere near as much time shining a light into the angles of the sponge next I go around the whole job sanding every single surface and time to strap on the stilts time to do the ceilings and I use this broader flatter one for doing the ceilings I don't use it on the walls and for feathering joints this is for big broad surfaces it doesn't do a good as job as burning down the edges feathering joints so almost done those awful ceilings and once you finish ceilings thank God do a little dance and you hope to never have to do it again but it's not over it's time to sand the angles with a sponge and check the job over with a light that's pretty much the last thing so another good couple hours with the sponge usually pick out those corners and you're done okay so that's my taping process it's fairly typical to how a lot of guys do it out here I've tried it a lot of different ways with the tools over the last five or six years and this is the system that I've kind of whittled down to suit the size jobs that I do and to get the most speed and the nicest results without going overboard buying a whole bunch of expensive tools that I'm never gonna use so thanks for watching now you know my taping method and if you learned anything it's your own damn fault thanks for watching Vancouver carpenter

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 380,465

Rating: 4.9389873 out of 5

Keywords: drywall, repair, patch, hole, wall, ceiling, damage, wallboard, sheetrock, gyproc, tape, mud, taping, mudding, good, best, fast, easy, smooth, texture, fix, paint, painting, trim, corner, inside, outside, bead, corner bead, DIY, home repair, carpententry, tutorial, plaster

Id: IKfxGbEE8lo

Length: 17min 23sec (1043 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 09 2019