HOW TO REPAIR DRYWALL (PEAKED JOINTS)

hello and welcome to Vancouver carpenter today I'm going to teach you how to fix a peak joint so that is when you have a paper tape joint and the sheets have had some movement or they've compressed or the joint is hollow and either way what it's done is its created this little line right here so you probably can't see it from this angle but here we are right there so how do we fix that well the first thing we need to do is figure out why it's doing that so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna carve it open and see first off if it was a hollow joint or not so first things first I'm gonna carve it open and see what we have underneath okay there's the joint okay so it's not too hollow which is good but I still want to carve it out so that I can fill it full of mud to make it nice and strong again so I don't need to go any further than that because my baseboards gonna cover but actually drawing that pencil line made it impossible for me to see where the actual joint was and I had a really hard time running my knife down so I'm just actually gonna keep carving it out so this may seem excessive but I'm trying to make sure that this actually doesn't come back because I could have just covered it with mud and it would be fine it might take a year or two before it shows up again but I really want to fuse these two joints together and make sure this doesn't come back again it's possible that this was just a fastening issue so I'm gonna add some more screws just in case now that well-fastened I'm gonna vacuum it out to make sure it gets a good bond to the new mud okay so now I want to pre-fill this joint and I'm gonna pre fill it using quick set mixed with quite a bit of glue actually so this is my thinned down glue technique so I don't need much just for pre fill so I've got just a little bit of water in here probably about 50% of my glue mix so I wouldn't be surprised if this mix I'm making is about 25% glue only need about a handful and I'm gonna keep this mix pretty thick I don't want it getting really wet the wetter it is the more extreme so now I'm gonna pre fill this really well really making sure I force that mud into the cracks so this right here is ninety-minute mud I'm gonna leave this mud in here and I'm gonna let this drywall actually absorb some of the moisture I'm gonna come back in about 10 or 15 minutes and this mud in here should still be good enough to tape with so I've left it for about half an hour it's had tons of time to shrink so now I'm gonna tape it and I'm gonna use paper tape I always prefer paper tape on things like this the reason is if even paper tape can fail on a joint like this why would I use something like mesh tape that's even more likely to fail so again now that this has had little time to shrink my mud still good and I'm gonna tape this up get a nice even coat of mud on there I'm gonna lightly embed it and give it just a little time for the tape to soak in the moisture and some of the glue and mud okay so I've given this just about a minute to soak up the mud now if you need a more in-depth video about how to tape a butt joint I have one of those too so you can check that out this is just dry well repair fixing a crab now because this was already on a butt joint there's a good chance that this is gonna need to be built out a lot so instead of throwing away this ninety minute I have I'm just gonna add a little bit more on together just to the outside edges waste not want not so I'm gonna let this set up now before I do any other codes now it's not important that you use quick set for anything other than the pre-fill you could do the rest of this with all-purpose mud or you could use quick set to pre-fill taping to tape and then finish mud to cover or you could use all-purpose for the whole thing if you want to give it enough time to shrink and dry which is overnight for each coat but for the purposes of making videos I like to use quick sets so that I can film the whole thing in one day so delightfully my mud has actually set up in less than 90 minutes so I'm just gonna flatten it down a little bit the tiny little lift off stir up and now it's time to coat it so I'm just gonna do another coat of ninety minute this is the Cinco Pro Set 90 and I don't trust this product without glue in it I have had this stuff fall off the wall before too but much less glue this time this is maybe about a 1 to 10 ratio now quick little pro tip the less you clean your mixing water the faster your muds gonna keep setting which is probably why they're set in under an hour instead of 90 minutes conversely if you want to keep your set time consistent make sure you clean everything and keep your water nice and clean so before I coat it I'm gonna see how it looks and actually amazingly it's not so I think I only need about one trowel width on each side of this if you want a more detailed video on how to coat butt joints I have an incredibly long one that's worth watching about getting flat walls but for the purpose of this you can just watch little crumbs in the mud but they'll work out okay we are all smooth and now it is this time better my edge than my egg one final pass down the middle to flatten it right out now it doesn't look perfect yet but this is just a loading code so it's now setup let's take an up-close look at it so as you can see I got some liftoff lines from my trowel work now I'm just gonna quickly polish off some of those high spots pretty good also what I like to do is I'm gonna check it to see how flat everything's looking because sometimes you might have like a big hump in there and not know about it but everything's looking really good oh what's that one little spot you can use your trowel this way to kind of shave it off - it's a nice broad flat surface and it'll help you shave down the high spots so that's looking good it's ready for a coat of finish mud actually I almost forgot when working with Kwikset I sometimes like to burn my edges down a little bit so they don't show through on my second coat only the very edge is dry enough to sand but that's all I needed now it's just coat it again this time thinner and smooth I think it needs one more time over I'm pretty happy with that let's take an up-close look well actually there's not much to see but there it is look it smoother ready for just one cent so that is obviously gonna take a few days to dry and like I said before you could do this with regular air drying mud and do it each stage one day at a time but that's my method for fixing peat joints crack joints actually you can fix a lot of things like that I've even had good success with fixings major structural cracks that way that I've come back to three years later and still haven't cracked although fixing any structural crack is always going to be cross your fingers and hope it doesn't come back no matter what you do so main principle behind this repair is you just want to clear out all the stuff that's not stuck together anymore and you want to create a really nice fuse together joint that's why I add the extra glue that's why I like quick set because it's strong that's why I like paper tape because well the face of drywall is paper to begin with so just seems to work so anyways thanks for watching Vancouver carpenter if you found this useful feel free to leave a thumbs up and a comment below also feel free to subscribe if you don't want to miss any more useful videos that are gonna help you get some nice beautiful smooth walls so thanks for watching until the next video

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 663,134

Rating: 4.9287257 out of 5

Keywords: drywall, repair, damage, fix, hole, wall, mud, tape, taping, inside corner, tutorial, glue, corner bead, plaster, bead, hotmud, DIY, how to tape drywall, beed, corner, construction, mesh, carpentry, ceiling

Id: rPVuwSDmAv4

Length: 12min 54sec (774 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 05 2018