BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 Mainboard - Full Install Part 1 - 2209 Drivers - Chris's Basement

today we're going to get started on everything you need to know about installing a big tree tech SKR 1.4 mainboard 22:09 stepper drivers and central is homing the big tree tech SKR series of main boards have been extremely popular and that's mostly because you can try out 32-bit processing on your 3d printer for a very little amount of money I've been getting a lot of questions on the 1.4 version of the mainboard both the regular and the turbo you'll see in a little bit there really isn't a lot of difference in between those two but it's a lot of questions around sensorless homing and TMC drivers so we're going to take the next two videos and go over everything SKR 1.4 TMZ 22:09 and sensorless homing there is a lot of information here so I've done my best to pack everything you might need to know about this configuration into two videos and those two videos are going to be fairly long but by the end of this you should know everything you need to know about setting up Marlin 2.0 to work with your SKR 1.4 and have sense of this homing working correctly so let's not waste any time and jump right into it so here are both the SKR 1.4 and the 1.4 turbo boards can you tell the difference in between these two boards well they're identical and the only difference between these two boards I'm gonna go over this more during the Marlin config is the processor the regular 1.4 board has an LPC 1768 chip the turbo board has an LPC 1769 chip the only difference in between those two chips are 20 megahertz so with the turbo board you get 20 more megahertz the good news is the turbo board is only 2 or 3 dollars more than the regular so it really doesn't matter which one you get they're going to be almost exactly the same as far as you know in performance now what is the difference between an SKR 1.3 board and a 1.4 board so both the non turbo 1 4 and the 1 3 they both use the LPC 1768 processor a few things have been consolidated on the 1.4 board one of the biggest advantages is on the 1.4 they've broken the z driver into two pin sets so if you have two z motors you don't have to create some sort of adapter for them you can just plug them right into the board also they have added one constant power plug over here you can use that for a fan or whatever you wish but that will be always on on the 1.4 port you also do have an additional fan port over here but I believe it is also constantly on you can't control it the only one you can control is this fan zero that will be for your part fan on the one dot for your servo pins have been broken out a little bit more clearly you can use this for your BL touch setup now on the 1.3 you had the max in stop pins these are not actually matched in stop pins you can probably use these for whatever you want but here we have e zero detect a one detect probably used for filament sensors again you can probably use it for whatever you wish and then this one here is labeled powered detect so if you have some sort of relay that you want to hook up to detect when you want the power to come on or off you can control those with those pins we'll see that more in the Marlin config but again we can probably do whatever we want with these pins now because of the relocation with a lot of the stuff on the one four and the things that they've added they've done away with a lot of the jumpers that were on the sk r 1.3 these jumpers are what allow you to control what the stepper drivers do for all the different smart drivers on the one three out here you had the UART jumpers so if you're using a 2208 2209 you could run them in standalone or smart mode by using these jumpers the SPI jumpers and the MS zero through three jumpers are the same on both boards and also these diane jumpers over here you don't have those on the 1.4 board these are what you would use to enable sensorless homing for a driver so if these are on you will not be able to use an in stop switch if they're off you can't use centralist homing so that was a nice feature that was controlled already on the board you don't have those on the 1.4 and that leads us to an interesting situation so let's focus on the 1.4 now so before we get more into the drivers portion there's two other things I wanted to mention you do have some pins now on the 1.4 to control some LEDs if you'd like there is a module they sell for this so we might go that in the future also you have a Wi-Fi port victory Tech does sell a Wi-Fi module that is a serial bridge that you can use on this board so we're going to test that eventually as well now driver info if you would like to use SPI drivers on this board you will need to put all of these jumpers on just like they are right now whichever driver you want to use all of these are going to have to be on so those are for like 21 30s or 51 60s running an SPI mode that's the smart mode so I'm only going to do one because I think it's pretty self-explanatory but if you want to use some of the legacy drivers like an a4 988 or an 8 8 to 5 you would put all of your jumpers on on the pins next to those sets of pins these are the MS 0 through 3 pins you have to have the bottom one on no matter what if you're using those types of drivers but then these three pins will set your microstepping mode so if all of these are on that sets them too high for an a4 nine eight eight that's going to be 16 times microstepping for an 82 five that's 32 times microstepping so different combinations of these three jumpers are going to set your microstepping mode there are lots of guides out there if you'd like to use a different mode but if you have any questions about it I would just put them all on and then you can adjust your steps accordingly inside marlin now if you want to use UART mode that's going to be the mode that we're going to be using on our 2202 day you want to put the jumper on these two pins right here for every driver you'd like to use it on we're only using four today but I put them on by default anyway so that jumper has to be on for the SKR 1.4 board also if you don't want to use senseless homing on a driver we are going to set up central this homing on X&Y but we're not going to have it on Z and the extruder if you don't want to use senseless homing on this board you're going to have to alter your driver board so now let's talk about these 22:09 drivers if you're going to order an board for big tree tech and you want to use these types of drivers I highly recommend you order the drivers with it not all these silent boards like this are treated the same or configured the same on some of the different boards you I have to alter solder pads or move some pins around differently the chips are the same the boards are not so just go ahead and get the big tree tech ones that match your board you're gonna save yourself a lot of headache later so if you want to use some solace homing the configuration we're in right now you don't need to change anything just leave them as is you don't have to alter any of the pins you're good to go put your heatsink on and you're ready now if you don't want to use sensorless homing we are not going to be using it on z or e because of the consolidation on the sk 1.4 board you now have to alter these pins on the 1.3 board we had that diag jumper that we could remove or put on if we wanted to change the state here we don't have that option so we have to remove this pin you can either just clip it or you can try to desolder it so if you're not using senseless homing and you don't remove this pin you're in stops gonna stay open and your axes will crash and that could be pretty bad so again anything not using senseless homing you have to remove this pin to use a 1.4 board now for the extruder leaving this on or clipping this pin it doesn't seem to matter it doesn't seem to confuse the extruder at all if you leave this pin in place but it might not be a bad idea to go ahead and remove it you just don't want to see an issue maybe something gets confused along the way and you don't know what it is and it might be this pin causing it so it's probably the best just to remove the pins for Z and your extruder so a couple of final things before we get on to the install adding this jumper enables the UART connectivity to the driver so you can send and receive information from that driver and on a big tree tech setup like this if you're using their drivers and their board there's really no reason not to use this mode the u art allows you to control the reference voltage and the microstepping on the driver now you can still use these drivers in standalone mode and use the trim pot on top to set the V ref but you will have to solder some pads on the bottom of the board to enable that that will disable the UART ability if you go to standalone mode these m/s zero through three pins like I showed you before the lazy drivers those will now control your micro stepping you do have to be in UART mode to you sensorless homing but the feedback that is provided to the end stop which used to be done with a jumper wire which is now done integrated into the board it's provided by that diag pin that's why if you're not using it we have to remove it and the last bit of information is this jumper right here this is what controls how your board is going to be powered up I suggest you just leave it on the VDD pins these two pins on this side if you want to do some testing and you want to be able to power the board up via USB you can move it to these two pins but most of the time it's best practice to not have the board powered up unless we have our power supply turned on so use these two pins so I just leave it there for most cases now let's get it wired up all of our drivers are on the Z driver and the e driver do have the diag pin clipped on the bottom make sure you have these in the correct position your potentiometer on top for the big T check drivers should go on this side for all of the drivers so badging down below potentiometer right there and when you put your heatsinks on just make sure you're not closed to those pins that are facing on the top these pins right here you don't want to short anything out now I've showed you this before and it's definitely not the recommended method to install one of these boards on lug the printer that we're installing today it has all dupont connector types these boards have these jts style connectors don't really remember which model that is but a lot of printers will have these but this printer doesn't so all the connectors that I'm going to use I just removed this plastic shroud around those pins so I did it for all the drivers my probe my thermistors it just gives a little bit more pin exposed and it makes those DuPont connectors fit a little bit more snug again not recommended but that's what we're going to do today I am actually going to put these back on at some point because we're going to use this board on another project very soon that has JT s style connectors on the motors if you're doing something like this with DuPont connectors just pay extra attention to where the pins are going especially on things like your fan you want to make sure you have positive and negative set correctly or you might ruin a fan also on this configuration I'm going to show you this more in Marlon but we're going to use the one pins over here to control our hot end fan since we don't have a second heater for our second extruder we can set this up in Marlin so that it will come on and off based on the temperature of the first hot end I'll show you more on that later so let's just start with our motor cables down over on this side I'm gonna cable all the motors identically so the wire pattern will be the same for all the motors then we can decide how the motors running inside the firmware so if it's not going the right direction we can just change it in the firmware instead of swapping the cables around makes it just a little bit more consistent so on mine mine are blue red green and black so I'm just going to pick a direction I'm going to put blue going that way on this side for all the motors so there's X there's Y here's my right z motor doesn't matter which one of these goes where there's my left z motor it's kind of hard to do this and keep it in the camera because I'm so close to the printer with all the wires but we'll do our best and then here's my extruder motor then we'll put our part fan over here remember positive is on the side with the drivers negatives on the other side so plug it in correctly and then my hot end fan I put Farrell's on so I could use this extruder to terminal here the positive one is the one closest to the drivers and the other side is a negative then we can screw those down hot in fans on we can go ahead and put on our heater wires they go right here remember the heaters are not polarized doesn't matter which one goes where next up we're going to attach our bed heater wires and our DC input these two are the most important make sure you have these down nice and snug you want those connections to be as tight as possible if you're not making good connectivity here there's enough draw where you can actually burn up these plugs so you want the positive on this side and the negative on this side and something that trips off a lot of people on these SKR boards is that the positive and negative for the DC power in or actually flip-flop so the bed it's positive negative on the DCN it's positive negative just double and triple-check that when you're installing one of these you don't want to blow anything up as with all these projects if you're using this type of terminal I highly suggest you put Farrell's on the ends of all the wires you don't really want to put bare wires in there or even soldered ends Farrell's are much better power in is done next up we're gonna put our Z probe right here the signal pin is this pin the center one is ground and this one is power most of the time on an inductive probe like the one that I'm using this is a 5 volt probe Brown is going to be your positive and black is going to be your signal the blue one should be the negative wire we can plug in our LCD screen exp 1 exp 2 and I have a filament run-out sensor I'm gonna use this ez row detect set of pins for that mine's just an IR micro switch it's the stock one for the mark 3s but you do have power and ground so make sure those are set correctly you want power ground in the center and then signal on the end and then all we have left are thermistors these are not polarized it doesn't matter which wire goes on what pin so we'll put our heated bed thermistor on right there and our hot in through mr. right there and we're all wired up now we can move on to the marlin config we're gonna head out to Marlin fw org we're gonna go to downloads we're going to grab the most recent version we have 2.0 5.1 we're gonna hit the zip file then we can head to downloads and we'll extract our zip right click extract all let's name it to 0.5 underscore SKR 1-4 we'll hit extract when that's done it should open it up I'm going to go ahead and rename this folder as well so it's a little clearer inside of vs code so let's call it 2.5 underscore SKR 1 underscore 4 just so I know the difference and then we're going to open up vs code so we edit the configuration now I already have some folders in my workspace out here that doesn't mean you need to ever remove them but it might make it a little more clear if you do you can right-click and remove these folders but I want to work with these later so I'm just gonna collapse all of these and then I'm gonna right-click and hit add folder to workspace we'll go to downloads open our 20.5 directory and then we're just gonna highlight this Marlin folder you need to select a folder that contains your Marlin folder if you look in here here's your Marlin folder that's where your config files are going to be but we want to go up one level and select this folder so hit add and this is going to pull in all of our moral and configuration data you can expand Marlin and we'll start by building the configuration H file you can see that we're on version 205 first thing I'd like to do is update the author comment this will display when you open it up in the terminal this is just so I remember what I did I just put my name the date and the board I'm working on so let's just do SKR 1.4 turbo we're going to change our serial port to negative one of the SK our boards doing a negative one should allow it to use that virtual serial interface so you can connect to it with your computer baud rate I'm gonna set mine to eleven five two hundred because a couple of things that I'm currently testing on log communicate at that baud rate as well you can probably just leave it at 250 thousand and you'll be okay now we'll configure the motherboard settings and the easiest way to do this is to open up source over here in the browser and we'll open up core and here's your boards dot H file if you open that up these are all the boards that are currently supported by Marlin and the name they use in the code so let's scroll down a bit they're usually divided up by processor we're gonna set up the turbo so we have an LPC 1769 here's all your 1768 boards there's the regular 1 3 and 1/4 board if that's the one you're using or if you head down to 1769 here's our turbo board so we'll just copy this one head back to configuration dot H we're going to paste it ray here that setting is going to direct us to the correct pens file and the processor that we're going to use on this board so it knows how to configure it next up I like to change up the custom machine name this is what's going to be displayed on the LCD let's just name this one log SKR 1.4 we only have one extruder I do like to switch the filament diameter 1.75 this is just in case later you want to use the volumetric settings or the filament with sensor and a few other things in here but it's just good practice to have this set so you don't have any issues later the next section is for multi extruders we don't have any of that so we'll scroll through power supply control is a bit different nowadays it used to be you set it to 0 1 or 2 depending on what type of power supply you were using now you pretty much just leave them commented out unless you have some special type of power supply this gives you a little bit of control over the power we don't have that here so we'll just keep on going and then we come to thermal settings this is where you set your thermistors this is all the different thermistor options that you have in Marlin I have an e3d thermistor on my hot end so I'm going to change the temp sensor 0 to number 5 and then on my bed I have a 1 just a regular 100k thermistor notice here you now have the probe setting that's if you want to use a pin to to probe and use that thermistor that's on the probe you can set that up here as well that will be in a future video so let's keep on going heater min timpz and max temps for an all-metal hotend these should be just fine 275 isn't out of the scope for a v6 150 might be a little high on that bed but I never intend to set it that high so I'm just gonna leave it as is PID settings I'm gonna leave mine to default you do need to calibrate these later the one that it gives you for default that they call Ulta maker it's actually pretty close to v6 it works decent but you still do need to run a calibration PID bed I'm just gonna leave that at bang bang for now that's pretty much just on or off it has no PID settings you can configure that with the configuration command as well if you'd like prevent cold extrusion this is just so you can't extrude any filament the extruder motor won't turn if the hot in isn't up temp just another safety feature as well as max length you can't extrude over 200 millimeters of filament in one go it's just to keep you from running a command with like 5000 on it so it sets there and extrudes forever this will keep you from doing that thermal runaway protection is enabled by default in marlin just leave these alone keep it enabled homing most the time you're in stuffs are going to use x-men y&z so you just leave those default in stop pull-ups are enabled if you need to disable them you can comment out these individually if you'd like you can also enable dance up pull downs if you need to we don't need to in this configuration and in stop inverting this depends on what type of switch you use I have standard micro switches for X&Y and then I have a Z probe and just because I've configured these so many times I know how it's going to work I do still have the N stop switches installed but in this configuration we're going to use central as homing for X&Y and if you want to use sensor this homing you're gonna have to set those to false right here so if you have a previous configuration where they're set to true if you want to go to central this homing come in and update these to false but we should be ok for those I want to set Z to true I have an NPN probe that is normally open on this printer so the light is off it is not triggered by default until it touches the bed and then it goes closed so a min and stop is true and if that is true you have to match it with your probe inverting down here so we'll also set this one to true you might have to play around with these a little bit just based on what switch you use if you need to know what that switch is doing run an m1 1/9 that'll tell you the status if that's not the correct status you can flip it right here then we come down to driver type this is where you can set the kind of separate Reiber that you're using by default even if these are commented out it assumes that you have an a4 9 8 8 we are using TMC 2200 9s and we're gonna use them in UART mode UART mode allows you to use the software commands if you run it in standalone you just put underscore standalone next to it and that will allow you to use it in standalone mode you can't connect to it with UART so you can't get that dying information but you can still use the stealth chop the quiet feature if you wish so we'll just comment out 4x y + Z + e0 and will change a for 988 - TMC 2209 will do that for all four and that will enable all four drivers I'll show you in a little bit what the default settings for a 22:09 and you aren't wrote is that's over in configuration underscore adb dot h but we'll get there in a minute now we're down to the access step per unit this is the setting that tells your motor how many steps it takes to move a millimeter this depends on how many teeth you have on your pulley what type of belt you're using what type of lead screw you're using and the extruder gears what's the ratio on those gears some are three to one some are one to one so you need to know a lot about your printer to be able to set these up and if I've never showed you this before the prusik calculator is a great place to go where you can enter in all your parameters and then that will spit out a number that you can put in that configuration file for instance I'm running a 1.8 degree motor that's 200 steps per revolution my belt pitch is 2 millimeter my pulley tooth count is 16 I'm running at 16 times microstepping and the belt pitch is 2 millimeter so for X&Y it's both the same I'll enter a hundred just an example of how you can use this calculator so for x and y we'll put 100 in I am using two integrated lead screws they are both for start that's a TR 8x8 so that's 400 steps per millimeter of movement and I'm using a 1.8 degree extruder motor with bond tech gears 5 millimeter gears I set my extrusion myyy steps to about 140 that gets me a pretty good result every printer is gonna be different but this is pretty common for a lot of I three machines so moving on now down to feed rate that's the maximum speed that access can move I'm just gonna leave these a default because most of the time nowadays I set them with commands inside the slicer anyway these are just the maximums and they can be altered with a g-code command as well so we're just gonna leave them at default same with acceleration these are maximums I'm just gonna leave them set this way again a lot of slicers are going to adjust these for every print also with default acceleration retract and travel so before those were the maximums that the machine can run this is what the acceleration will while it's extruding filament so it can't go over that maximum of 3000 but it's going to try to achieve 3000 again the slicer is going to decide a lot of the stuff nowadays so I'm gonna leave them here but just to tell you what they do this is acceleration while extruding this is 4 while retractions are happening and this is the acceleration for travel non-printing moves again default should be just fine for this one by default Marlin is currently using Junction deviation rather than classic jerk all the testing that I've done with jerk and Junction deviation it really doesn't matter which one you use I can't see an advantage from one to the other it is a setting that needs to be tuned but the defaults do work pretty well especially on a Cartesian i3 machine it might introduce some noise in the part where you see ghosting but this video is more about just getting up and running we'll get into tuning things like this much later so classic jerk if you want to use that you can uncomment this Junction deviation I'm just gonna leave it at the default of point 0 1 3 Junction deviation is actually trying to determine the real Junction edge like when you make a movement around a corner jerk is more about instantaneous movements but they kind of achieve the same result again that's for another video s-curve I'm gonna leave that off for now I do hope to visit that in a future video and then we come down to Z probe we do have a Z probe on this printer it does use the Z minimum in stop pin so we're just going to leave this one define if you use another pin you're gonna have the comment this one out and set the pin down here but we're okay for default for now mine is a fixed mounted probe so we'll remove this comment you have a lot of different options here including Bo touch and nozzle as a probe like on a loves Bob or something like that but the regular inductive probe will be fixed mounted moving on now we set the probe offsets this gives you a little map of what that offset might be depending on your probes location if you're to the right and the back of the nozzle that's going to be a positive setting if you're to the left or the front that's going to be a negative setting my probe I have a standard mark 3's extruder mount and on that mount the offset is going to be 23 on the X that's 23 millimeters to the right and it's 5 millimeters behind it again--that's probe location 2 nozzle also right now my setting for Z offset is negative 0.4 I like to turn on baby stepping so that you can adjust this on the fly if you need to but this is a pretty good setting if you're using that one millimeter zip strip and you have an inductive probe with a bed like a steel sheet or the mark 42 bed again these are just general settings some of them have to be tweaked later well we should be good for now I do not have a minimum probe edge this is the setting that you can use to keep that probe away from the edge of the bed if you have clips or something like that I just set mine to zero because I don't have to avoid anything I can get all the way out there probing speed I'll just leave it default you can slow that down if you feel like you're not having accurate probes same thing with multiple probes if you do a fast probe movement and then a slow one for accuracy you can set these here what speed they travel down here you can define that multiple probing how many times you would like to probe the more times you do take probes the more accuracy you're going to have with this bed and configuration usually I can just probe once and I'll be okay but definitely don't be afraid to turn these on if you need to get more accurate results scrolling on through we come down to the invert direction this is where you can change the direction that the stepper motor is going to turn in you can either just flip the cable over or you can set it right here for the motors that I have all of the defaults are correct so I've got a false true false and then on the extruder is also false so that should work for my config but if you're spinning in the wrong direction this is where you change that homing direction negative one is gonna tell it to always go in the minimum if you'd like to home in the maximum you just change these to one default again is good for us bed size mine is 250 in the X and 2 10 and the Y my Y minimum position my nozzle is actually just a little bit ahead of the bed when at homes so I set my minimum to negative 2.2 if you're exactly in the front right corner that would be 0 if it's outside or inside a bit this is where you'd adjust that also my Z max is 210 software in stops this is what keeps you from going outside of the dimensions of the printer that you set previously so the software will tell it no you can't go past zero in the negative or you can't go past 250 in the X or 210 in the Y you can't go more than that there's a software in stop in there for minimum and maximum now when you're setting things like Z offset you might need to go into the negative so you'd have to disable this feature to be able to set it but again this is another safety feature to keep you from crashing there's really no need anymore to change that in the firmware just leave it default and you can use the m2 11 command to turn that on and off if you need to while you're setting things up so we'll scroll them through filament run out sensors this printer does have one so we'll go ahead and set it up we'll take the comment off to enable it there are a couple other things we have to set up because we're using this but we'll get to those number of sensors I just have one my run out inverting I need to set this one to true again this is just based on the type of switch you use whether it's closed or open when it triggers I am using the regular IR type sensor that Prusa uses after you enable filament run out you can see this switch with am one one nine command so use that if it's not acting correctly and now is a great time to talk about pin assignment and how Marlin knows what pin to use on the board and how you tell what number of pin is on a board and big tree Tech has done a really good job by documenting these on the backs of their boards we plugged our sensor into this easy row detect pin right here so that's pin 1.26 the e1 detect pin is 1.25 and then that power detect pin is 1.0 again that power detect pin you can use it for PSU or you can use it for power off recovery so we're gonna go for 1.2 6 now how do those pin assignments relate back to marlin well you have a pins file for each one of these boards so over here on the left if we open up source we can go down to pins and we'll find our processor here's our LPC 1769 and we'll open up our turbo board but as you can see there's not much in this file that's because there's an include in this file for the regular 1.4 board so the pin assignments should be the same for both boards they are almost identical so back over here on the we'll close our 1769 we'll open up our 1768 and we'll open the regular SKR 1.4 board here's where it I'll have all the pen assignments for both of these boards so this is just for general information but we are using that easy row detect pin on the board and we found on the back of the board that that is pin 1.26 that pin assignment 1.26 is what you will use in the pins file I left a note for you before but you have to make sure that you remove the diag pin off of that extruder driver or it's going to cancel out that easy row detect pin it won't let you use that 1.26 pin because it's already busy doing something else so most of these pins are gonna have a p on the front of them when they get assigned but let's just do a control F and let's search for one underscore two six that easier to detect pin and you can see we come down to the first assignment it assigns it as the e zero diag pen you can also see the label here easier detect so by default if there is some situation where you're using stall guard on your extruder it would automatically assign P 1 to 6 to the diag pin cancelling out that ez row detect pen now we can see the next hit it assigns it as X Max and then the one below it assigns it as X min but that's only in the case where this condition is true we have an if statement here and this if statement says if x stall sensitivity has been set meaning we're using centralist homing on the x driver which we are so this condition is true then we define the x stop pin as the x diag pin which if you look up here x diag pin is set to 1 to 9 that's the minimum and stop pin so when that is set you can't use that minimum in stop pin we're using sensor this homing if you wanted to use that pin again you would have to clip that pin off the bottom of the driver or it's going to cancel it out so we have set the X in stop pin now we have another if statement if the home Direction is less than 0 so if you home towards the minimum which is left on an i3 Cartesian machine you're gonna set X home dur to negative 1 you home to the right or the max on an i3 machine you're gonna set home dirt to one so this is saying if you are homing to the left that's the minimum direction because we're less than zero it sets a negative one then we're gonna define x max pan which is P underscore 26 that same easy row detects pan that we're using for our filament sensor so if stall guard for the X is enabled that's this condition right here and then if your home Direction is to the left or the minimum side your max pin is going to be set to that P 1 to 6 and that's the location where you would expect a max and stop pin to be again it is labeled easy row detect and we are using it for our filament sensor if your home Direction was set to 1 this condition right here you would hit this else statement and you would use it as your X min pin so your easier to detect pen on the board that one underscore 26 would be assigned to X min pin and down here if you don't have central this homing enabled your X stop pin your minimum and stop pin is going to be set to P underscore 29 which is the default minimum and stop pin on your board so in our case in our configuration since we're using stall guard the P underscore 26 is also defined as the x max pin but just because it's defined this way it doesn't mean we can't use it for something else so if we hit find again we'll see it's also being used as the filament runout pin fill run out pin right here it's been defined so since we don't have our configuration set up to use a maximum in stop it'll fall through and allow us to use it as our filament run-out sensor pin so that's how you correlate what you've plugged in to the front of the board what that number is on the back of the board and where it gets configured in your configuration inside marlin if you came in to your pins file and you didn't have a fill run out pin configured you can just enter it just enter a define fill run out pin and then assign it a pin not every board is going to have its pin enabled but you can probably find the schematic out on the internet somewhere and just to take it a little bit further that pin that we saw that was one underscore 25 right next to our easier to detect that's a one detect so it's a sign to run out - if you had two hot ends - extruders and then the p1 underscore zero zero pin that's the power detect pin on the end that we just looked at you can use it as your PS on pin or your power loss recovery pin again not really necessary for this configuration but it should give you a lot better idea of how this all works back to configuration h and that brings us to the end of part one after all that pins final information I thought you might need a break anyway and we're almost done setting up our filament run out sensor we're gonna pick up right where we left off in the configuration file in part two that will be coming out very soon hopefully you found this video helpful if you did please since they're giving out a thumbs up or subscribe to my channel if not leave your thoughts in the comments below and as always thanks for watching

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 182,745

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, SKR, 1.4, turbo, tmc, trinamic, tmc2209, sensorless homing, marlin, 32bit, bigtreetech, SKR v1.4

Id: oHMZ0ocTYvM

Length: 36min 19sec (2179 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 15 2020