Making a ratchet wheel

[Music] hey welcome back to my shop today we have a job to do for a fellow machinist and he's running a small shaper but the machine is missing its ratchet wheel for auto feet so we're going to make one out of ode to tool steel hard net and do the finishing touches after hardening so it will last a lifetime we will also take a look on my duck shaper so you see what the wretched will is doing and yeah and we're going to make the wheel so let's begin okay roll that my duck shaper and this is how the ratchet wheel looks on almost every shaper that you find that has a mechanical feat the ratchet wheel looks like a gear but the teeth don't have the end elute shape of a normal gear but they have a square or trapezoidal shaped teeth or a pole can engage you can see on the guck shaper that the cross-section of the teeth is trapezoidal so this lever up here engages Paul a ratcheting pole that engages the ratchet wheel down here when we move the shaper it can skip over the teeth in one direction and want to change the direct length of stroke it will carry the drive the feed screw for the cross Traverse of the shaper just like this and on the end of travel when the direction changes it skips the teeth and you can change the feet direction with with the lever you just spin the pole 180 degrees around it's a very basic system but it works fine and in this position it's disengaged so what we're going to make is this part I already checked it it's it's hardened but not super hard it's about 50 to 55 Rockwell C hard so it doesn't wear out when the ratchet pawl clicks over the teeth so we're going to harden it too and draw it back to 50 Rockville C so we have a pretty good drawing of the ratchet wheel and we're going to make the teeth the two space needs to be one point seven millimeters wide of course I don't have a one point seven millimeter wide end mill or diameter end mill or 1.7 millimeter wide wheel cutter but I have a one point six millimeter wide one and we'll just take a cut off set it slightly take a second cup until we get one point seven for each of the teeth it's a little bit of extra work that should give very good results I could also grind a fly cutter but I find fly cutters to cut heavy profiles into steel quite annoying I prefer to use a multi tooth color for this I also have a chunk of one 2842 tool steel which is o2 you're going to use because easy to harden it doesn't move very much and the rest is a pretty simple work turning the outside shape boring cut the keyway on the shaper six millimeter wide release some allowance on the bore will make the bore five tenths of a millimeter smaller and will hard turn it after hardening of course it will cut the teeth before we harden it this is not a carbide wheel cutter so I took the piece of tool steel checked about up in the three cha and I machined the first side of the sprocket wheel outside banners are finished bore as point five millimeters allowance for horse turning so now we'll break all the sharp edges so we don't cut our fingers open flip it around and machine the second side okay I took the second side and part is to dimension now next step is to cut the key way into it you're going to do that on the shaker that's the setup we're going to run on the shaper eye strap clamp the part against the angle plate so the bore of the park is pretty much centered over one of the slots in the angle plate to give me clearance when I go through with the tool that's the setup over on the shaper I took the angle plate with the part clamped to it over to the Machine I prefer to do such a setup on the bench because you don't have to fight gravity all the time because it can have the angle plate on its back work vertically and I brought it over and aligned it was the travel of the cross slide on the shaper machine is all set up to you to cut the Kiwi I have a five millimeter wide slotting tool here and slotting tool holder which does not clap away like normal clapper box and now we need to Center the cutting tool in the bore and there is a very easy way to do that that I will show you I think I showed it previously but I will try to go the camera looking into the bore so you can see what's happening okay you're looking down into the bore of the part and this thing on the end here that you see that's the cutting edge of the slotting tool now we want to align it so it's centered in the bore and the way I like to do it I let the tool contact the part and by taking a very shallow cut I can see if the Petula Center I'm going to manipulate the table side to side until I take two equal-sized chips on both sides of the cutting tool so in this case I need to move the table over a little bit and try again and this looks pretty darn good to me I have to offset 2.5 millimeters to each side anyway because I need a 6 millimeter keyway and this is a 5 millimeter tool but should work out fine I will take an indicator to the table so I can follow my movements add some cutting oil [Music] okay we kept the key wave as normal white so now we offset table 0.5 millimeter to each side okay I had to do a little bit of hand work with mule files to get the fit of the keyway perfect but now it's a nice sliding fit with a 6.0 2 millimeter gauge lock that's what I wanted just like this when you step over the tool on the shaper to either side to open up the keyway the tool tends to get deflected and you have to take that into account the keyway will get a little bit of Bell mouthing on the end and that's what I removed by filing just a little bit of hand fitting couldn't take more than five minutes using a larger Swiss needle file with a with a Fayette and some smaller fine cut needle file I also be bird the edge of the keyway and balled over the corners so nice to touch just to give it some workmanship I'm choosing the right index plate for this job we need 30 divisions the rotary table has four degree / full revolution on the crank 360 degrees divided by 30 divisions gives us 12 degrees between each two space and 12 degrees is evenly divided by four degrees it gives us three that means we have to do three turns on the crank for each division that means on the other hand that pretend use whatever index plate we want I happen to choose that one with the lowest hole counts I don't accidentally use the wrong one that means that I can choose any random hold on this dividing plate and I prefer to do that without the sector arms now if they only get in the way when you do full full revolution terms reaching for each division I just have to pull the pin do one two three and just make sure that I go back in the right hole each time models also I always mark somewhere on the rotary tool or index plate my direction of travel with the crank so don't fubar dad's not that I ever did that let's talk about work holding this part I have a standard 16 millimeter mill or burr in the Morse taper 2 of the rotary table that's what I'm going to use to hold this part I turned a thin-walled aluminum bushing that fits into the bore of the part and has a 16-millimeter board that very close fit on the harbor it just turned this in one set up and then parted it off I just can slide on to the on the arbor that's just to Center it and we take to our bell rings put them here as a spacer part goes on here and we have a heavy brass washer and an m8 screw and that's all we need for work holding that's I always like it when I can take an arbor to hold an actual work piece because setup is quite fast and it's relatively Richard even if you have a lot of overhang in this case we're not taking a super heavy cut we're just slitting it was the wheel cutter okay I want to get the wheel cutter pretty precise on Center height of the rotary table and I don't know the center height of my rotary table so I took a gauge block stack and I added gauge blocks until I get a very snug fit under my workpiece that's worked out to be a height of 80 3.17 then I added half the diameter of the workpiece that's that's my Center height then I have to subtract half the thickness of my slitting wheel which is 0.8 millimeters so I end up with 100 point three seven millimeters that I need to be that I need to have from the table of the mill to the underside of my cutter one the wheel is on the center okay this is my hundred point three seven millimeter gauge block stack and it fits very closely under the slitting softly under the wheel cutter you have to be careful the the P from these are staggered to the side one goes up one goes down so you have to take a tooth that's facing down of course otherwise you you're off by quite a bit and also careful when you touch down on the gauge block you absolutely don't want to scratch it you don't want to scratch it up like this gauge block which is a used old one I'm using that because my good set doesn't have an eighty millimeter gauge block and I put some marker on top of the gauge block so I actually see when the saw blade is touching before I touch the metal caster sugar marker have thickness to itself okay I already cut the first tooth to movement of deep in one pass with the flailings with the wheel cutter I always say slitting saw about it it's a wheel cutter it has teeth that cut on the side no problem to take this is one pass I'm running it at 95 RPM could go a bit faster but this is tool steel and either expensive so I don't want to burn it up so first one cut index three revolutions on the the writing plate and cut the next one okay as you can see I went around one time cutting all the spaces between the teeth and I did not end up with half a teeth so my indexing was right and I didn't make an error during index that's also nice it's always annoying whenever part you put already quite a bit of work in it and when you do the indexing you foobar it that's that's really annoying then I came back and went around the second time with a slightly different height setting on the cutter to widen the gaps to 1.7 millimeters and now we can take part of the order there we go one ratchet wheel need to deeper it artnet and for it to 18 millimeters okay here we go as the part in the oven that's at 860 degrees C now we're going to quench it as usual in wedge of law and immediately after quenching I'm covering the oil with a piece of sheet metal so I don't smoke up the whole shop we catched a little bit of fire okay close door okay the part is hardened came out quite nice it's nice and hard but not tempered yet and I used the micrometer to map out the warpage of the part how much it went out of round and it just went around and measured the diameter in a few spots I know that this is not a very precise way to determine the other roundness because there are geometric errors that can be out of round but have everywhere the same diameter but for a rough idea to see what happened this is okay and seems that we have that wood went out of round only about two hundredth of a millimeter the diameter ranges from twenty 6.01 to 2604 now that's three hundreds of the mill made out of round that's not too bad I left material on the ID so we can rebar it nice and round and to size and the other diameter of the ratchet is not very critical even if it was one tenth of a millimeter out of round it would still perfectly fine work but for me it was more important to have it hardened so it doesn't wear out when the ratchet pawl clicks over the teeth we will draw it back to about fifty rock will see at tempering at 350 degrees C I've drawn back the hardness to about sixty rock olfi and I put it in the blasting cabinet and removed all the scaling and now it looks very nice and at a very uniform surface lest that will be too bore out the IE to 18 millimeters I check the park back up in the leaf and I'm using an indicator with a wide based tip flat tip over the the ratchet teeth to check the run-out with the flat tip I can average out the part I try to use a valid test indicated before and it was just annoying with the ball falling down into the grooves so this is about two hundredths of a millimeter run out now but I couldn't adjust it to go away because the part is out of round so it will be two hundredths of a millimeter no matter what I do and it doesn't really it's not a problem in this case s is just a ratcheting wheel but I still want the center bore to be asked concentric as possible to the ratchet tease that's what I checked here this is the boring boring thing to use its twelfth movement of shank and it holds a three millimeter carbide tool in it it's ground was about zero three top rake about 10 degrees rake to the bottom two or three degrees back rake in this direction very low back rate makes the tool very rigid and a little bit of lead angle which makes it cut a little bit softer and this works quite well for horse turning 50 to 55 Rockwell see hard materials there we go tool is cutting nice and nice and clean at least a gold colored chip so they are not overheating anything I board the ratchet wheel to final diameter and I oh we're in between our life check with the telescoping indicator gauge for the right diameter and I ended up bad at seventeen point nine nine all the way through so my bore is cylindrical and round and runs true to the outer diameter of the ratchet wheel now that's all we wanted and I have a piece of because ground 18 millimeters minus 200 this is some sort of a bearing spacer and this is a nice sliding fit in here so I think that's okay always keep in mind that is just a ratcheting wheel that gets on the end of a lead screw and gets sandwiched in with with a nut and this driven with a key so it's not not an okra precision application but I still want to get it pretty darn good I don't want to send something out that has my name on it and a shabby work yeah the heart the heart turning always works quite well the tool gets dull pretty fast we'll even have a car right but in this case we have also the problem uninterrupted Cup and that's even harder on the tool I resorted to adaptive Cup of 500 700 million worth of spring pass to get a good surface finish and no taper in the bore okay there we go let's finish ratchet wheel all hardened lumina mock sight blasted and hard boards to final diameter not too shabby I would I would say I'm quite happy how it came out like the surface finish from the of the blasting cabinet and also a surface finish I get on on the ID when I took the heart boring so just to show that you can make in a hobby shop with light duty tools you can make machine parts that are absolutely up to spec that I would I would say this is just as good as the part that is on my gosh a / done by the manufacturer you just have to you just have to do it just try it it's one step after each other if you see a complex part there is not super complex but just break it down into smaller steps a small step step by step turning the other diamond other shape of this part not it not hard drill it and bore it not hard during the keyway depends on what you have available on the shaper is quite simple you can also do it on the lathe with a parting tool laying flat and you can run the carriage back and forth to do the keyway or you can use brooch as what what do you have available or if you're really in a pinch you can file it there are a million ways to do it cutting the ratchet teeth also not hard you just have to do the math and set your dividing at a rotary table up for the right divisions you could I could even do it without a dividing head by Mickey Mouse on your way through with a angle finder and some way to hold it in a wise and turn it on but that would that would get annoying hardening it could even do the Oh to tool killers will it really very simple to harden you could even do it in in a barbecue in a cold grill and then temper it in your kitchen autumn if you can get it up to maybe 250 300 I think the the kitchen oftens with with the self-cleaning function can go up that high so that might else be a solution for tempering yeah and then the hard boring is also not it's no no black magic in this part the hard boring you just need a carbide tool nice and sharp you take like cuts and then you end up with pretty darn good surface finish so yeah if you have to make if you have some machines and you want the part you can make it even if you have limitations in your machinery you can make anything so thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 75,260

Rating: 4.9680805 out of 5

Keywords: ratchet wheel, rastrad, stoßmaschine, shaper, gack he20, gack, optimum mb4, opti mb4, rf45, hardening, härten, werkzeugstahl, 1.2842, toolsteel, machinist, home shop machinist

Id: z94wmzK56gs

Length: 31min 39sec (1899 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 09 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/cuttydiamond]

Very interesting video but I feel that he could have given just as much information in about 10 minutes.