Centering microscope - Prototype

welcome back to a shop today I want to start building something that I want to prolong as time but I don't want to buy it and that object is a centering microscope that's a microscope that you clamp up in the spin love your milling machine and it has a right angle eyepiece and you look into it and you can watch look down through the center of your spin alone rip it it has a crosshair so you can pick up marked out lines or edges of work pieces or just everything you can see there are a lot of manufacturers that built them and very high quality but they are quite expensive when you buy them new and even on the used market on flea Bay or something like that you pay quite a lot of money and being very ignorant I was thinking I could build my own I rolled out some microscope optics on ebay days of five x eyepiece and this is a 10 x lens it screws in here and there's just a very rough prototype I took a piece of Ram shaped modeling plastic and I machined out this prototype the eyepiece goes in here down here is a mirror at 45 degrees like in a purse cope I'm going to add a crosshair that has to go into the eyepiece we can unscrew the backside here then we can place the insert with of wire with a very fragile wire crosshair in there but as I said this is just prototype and it has obviously no way to clamp it in a milling machine I have this set up on the surface plate and I had it clamped to my height gauge and I just said to hide and watch through it against a steel rule to see if the magnification is good enough and if the working distance which is about 8 millimeters is good enough and yes eight millimeters is for me okay and yeah this is just proof of concept for me because I know approximately nothing about optics and the finalized design I want I don't want to use a mirror and going for a prism I ordered a glass optical glass prism I'm going to use and it will made a beam machine out of aluminum okay there we go that's the chunk of aluminum it's recurring aluminum with some lette content so the chips break nice and short and I'm basing it off on one side and I break the corner with a file now I'm turning down the step to about 25 millimeters in diameter that's the part of the microscope where the eyepiece will go in and as you can see the material produces a very nice shorter chip the occasional rat's nest still happens from time to time like on the end of a cut taking a face cut on the end and we drill out the center with a 19 millimeter stub length drill using some water soluble oil to lubricate the cut and pouring it to final dimension I'm using one of my shop metal high speed steel boring bars that I showed in an earlier video taking a finishing cut and I piece fits quite nice I'm breaking the cornice with a scraper that's the quick and dirty way when you don't want to use a chamfering tool now if you're over at the milling machine and we mill down the remaining cylindrical part down to be square and I'm using a 40 millimeter more steeper for shell and mill that have an integrated shank the quite a nice cutter its carbide tipped and back in the day this was a really expensive cutter I'm pretty sure the core break goes along the whole length of the cutting edges then I roughed out the inside of a 10 millimeter roughing end mill to a depth of about 30 millimeters and the vacuum cleaner is a great help when you cut such deep cavities finishing the sidewalls with a relief six millimeter end mill very long stick out but works very well first finishing cut and again taking a light finishing pass to clean up the walls next step will be to change the setup you can see the cavity we rotated by 90 degrees set it up in device again and use a rotor brooch or a core drill to hog out a hole for the microscope lens and we change to the bull hop the boring head and machine the holt final diameter taking a roughing cut and the finishing cut the thread is the m20 point three millimeters red with a 0.7 millimeter pitch that's the part finishing milling machine now we set it up for threading I clamp it in the grinding wise seed it down just very lightly tapping it down and I set the grinding wise on magnetic Chuck in the lathe I'm using the bull Center and the tail stock to align the bore just to give me a starting point lock it in place and do an idiot check if my of the borås on center and it was within two or three hundredths of a millimeter now I'm cutting the threat I have to set up running at about hundred rpm and what not a problem at all the microscope lens fits very nicely into the thread no problem whatsoever and as part is almost done it's only a little deeper ring but it's I'm quite happy off-camera i machined some additional parts I made this shank with ten millimeter diameter which can go into a collet after milling machine and it screws onto the body with three screws and the holes and this flange are oversized so when I loosen the screws three guys here I can move the shank around and like you can use this to Center it up to Center my crosshair which will add to the eyepiece up with the line of sight so would to Center it with the line of the spindle so when we turn this it's always in the center of the spindle for that we need to run out adjustment I also made a triangular piece this is some Wren shape polyurethane foam modelling plastic I I took this material just because of machines very easy very fast it's good for prototyping and I machined it at 45-degree it screws into the body we are the outside through the slot I had the intention to make it adjustable through the slot but then I decided just to let it rest against the inside of this housing and I glued a piece of mirror which is not the best choice this is just a shaving mirror that I salvaged and cut down and this piece is just super glued against this triangular piece and it's in the line of sight of the eyepiece that's pretty much all down here we have to sweat for the four-day microscope optic or the lens and here we have our clothes fit yeah not very close for the eyepiece that's how it looks now the nicest prototype now we can hook it up or set up in a milling machine and take a look through the eyepiece we'll see if we can get a video image through it so let's see okay I will tell mommy to call it the spindle up and make sure that you don't turn on the spindle of the machine when you have something like this set up this might get ugly and now we have our microscope in the spindle okay we have a more or less clear view through the eyepiece this is quite hard to set up and as you can see when I move to steel scale under the microscope lens you can see moving in the eyepiece and by moving the quill up and down I can adjust the the focus and I can move apart wish the cross slide under the microscope so so far this works quite well I'm very happy how this came out so far and the only thing that's left for a centering microscope is of course a crosshair then we can use it to pick up features on part and also use it more for measuring if we use the Dro okay I figured out the crosshair when we take a look through the eyepiece here you can see that I have a crosshair now it's out of focus because cameras focusing on the stuff around it but when we take the real lens off and take a look inside and I I need something to point that you can see the crosshair down in there and what's the material for the crosshair is 0.1 millimeter copper wire this is insulated copper wire for winding spools or adductors the electronic guys have that stuff on hand and I machine the plastic ring with a groove and I drilled four holes and I threaded some wire so it forms a cross and I wrapped the wrap wire around groove I machined into it and yeah push the ring down into the eyepiece and pushed it down and screw the eyepiece back together and took a look until the wire crosshair was in the focal point of the eyepiece I hope I don't mess up the terms there but I think the focal point is the right term for this and that's about here I had to push it back and forth a bit until it appeared nice and sharp when I looked through the eyepiece this works so far quite okay and as you can see the wire has kink in it that's out of Center by itself but that doesn't matter for this purpose we're just testing it here we can screw it back together and go to machine and take a look through it okay we have our crappy image through the eyepiece again and you can see that the crosshair is in focus more or less and now I'm going to move the quill of the milling machine up and down until I have a sharp or focused image in the viewfinder of the camera what we're looking at is again a skill scale okay let's make a better crosshair we start again with a piece of Delrin like Delrin and i'm turning it down to the internal diameter of the eyepiece and the stuff machines so beautiful on taking a finishing cut and I mentioned a step on the end so I can clamp it in a collet drilled across holes a machine a groove and I parted off the guru fizz to wrap the wire around it later parting it off there it goes now I flip it around clamp it on the small diameter drill and bore the inside and that's pretty much all the turning work now we go over to a bench I have my er 25 colored block and I hold the part on the smaller turn diameter in this block and on the milling machine and wise I have set up the stop and I'm using the edge and I'm using the edge finder to Center on the collet block in y direction touching off on both sides and taking half the distance that's the center of the colored block touching off on the end of the kulluk block I really like these edge finders they are very very precise and now for the drilling I have PCB drills carbide down to 0.3 millimeters and I use them in plastic and aluminum but preferably only in plastic they are very brittle that's point three millimeters very careful when you handle these grilles most of them break due to clumsiness when handling them you can see it's not very much of a drill there and now I'm drilling the first hole for the cross wire crosshair just packing I'm running the drill at 3200 rpm and you're through take the color-block out flip it around 90 degrees but it up against the stop drill the next one and so on and so on until I have all four holes around it now we take down the drill and put it carefully back into its case if you leave that drill out it will be broken within a few seconds not right not very robust these little buggers back on the lathe and parting off the finished part catching it with the scraper and removing the little burr that's left from parting with the same scraper I'm taking some point one four square millimeter multi-strand wire and remove the insulation so I have the bare copper wires exposed and I cut a bunch of them off they are eight hundredths of a millimeter in diameter and I use them for the crosshair I'm threading the wires through the hole using some tweezers and going down into the other hole I still see good enough to do this work without magnification and thread the wire through it pull it pull it through and wrap it around the outside of the ring into the groove that's the reason for the groove and just make a something like a knot and the same thing for the second wire Oh first securing the first one with a drop of superglue so it doesn't unwind itself now we go for the second wire fiddling it through the hole pulling it through and going out the other side and wrapping the wire around and twisting it up it's currently securing it with some superglue pulling it straight and there we go that's the finished crosshair it goes into the eyepiece and you need to push it down into the focal point of the first lens of the eye piece using a piece of Delrin rod to push it evenly down there you can see it and screwing the eyepiece back together like this and it fits into the microscope were nice and we can test it okay I set the camera up again in front of the microscope eyepiece and you're looking down into a piece of steel that I glued up with some blue marker with some editing and I scribed a cross line into it and the vertical line the metallic looking vertical line you see there is described line and you can see the new crosshair moving across the described line and I can perfectly line it up with the with the scribed line and crosshair shows nice and sharp in the eyepiece and it's not too thick it's not too thin I think that's a pretty good start I might try to get some thinner wire the copper wire I picked out of the flexible point one four square no meter wire is 0.09 millimeters in diameter that's nine hundredths of a millimeter that's about four four thousand of an inch roughly it's really half still something like that and you can see that the crosshair is nice and crisp and I like it and I also aligned the run-out when I turned the microscope in the spin block surrounded six degrees around the crosshair stays in the center not perfectly but within one or two hundredths of a millimeter that's already quite okay for such a rough prototype I think we have a winner here this is a pretty simple verb basic prototype with only two port pieces only the eyepiece and the microscope lens are bought there are together about 50 bucks that's not super cheap but it's yeah it's optical stuff so yeah costs money and a broken razor shaving shaving mirror I'm looking into I ordered a glass prism which will be better but I'm also going to experiment around with the discs out of hard drives the harddrive disks are finished or very high surface finish and they are mirror-like and there are surface mirror in that fact because surface is reflective and I will also try those as a mirror for the for the eyepiece and I will redesign it make it a bit more slim and that will change the run-out that adjustment up here because the oversized holes and knocking the microscope around with copper drift is yeah that's not very cool so that and apart from that I'm pretty sure that we will revisit this topic and might be interesting for some of you it's it's a bit out of a lot of the work that I do normally this is more into optics and refine and into a buret walk this is more into optics and measuring equipment building and yeah this is this is some something different and but I like it but I don't like our webcams and stuff like that they are mounted to the machine they are have a horrible picture quality and you need always a device to show the picture yeah I could use an old smartphone but then you have the wiring going off and now this thing is standalone we will add a small ring light or something like that with some SMD with some surface mount white LEDs to give us a good lighting lightning lightning around the microscope lens down here and then there would be good thank you all for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 75,812

Keywords: centering microscope, zentriermikroskop, zeiss, optik, optics, mikroskop, microscope

Id: df8MnaDCIHo

Length: 28min 47sec (1727 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 22 2016