Indexable V-Groove Cutter

[Music] hey welcome back in the past I always did some PVC parts a recurring job on the shaper that needed 30 green regroups in it and I used this 30 degree tool bit for this job always worked perfectly fine but I felt the shaper and I need another solution to do this part so the most obvious thing would be to use a 30-degree V groove and mill or single lip color I tried that on the engraving machine with or on this CNC router and it kind of works but it's not great because a V groove bit has always the problem that you have Ciro cutting speed on the extreme end of the tip that for therefore the finish on the bottom is pretty poor so next best thing would be to use a [Music] wheel cover that has 30-degree included angle on tip I couldn't find one to buy standard high speed steel cutter with 30 grease is not available off-the-shelf something like this with 30 degrees I couldn't find it and having one read round would be quite expensive and regrinding one myself is not in the realm of possibility right now because I'm not set up for tool cutter writing at the moment my cutter grinder I bought is still on a pallet somewhere on a truck I guess so I was thinking I could build a indexable wheel cutter that uses carbide inserts and unfortunately you cannot get carbide inserts with 30 degrees included angle you can get them with 35 degree included angle this is a V CMT insert V CMT 1103 and as I said 35 degree included angle but fortunately I have a surface grinder and I can rewrite these to 30 degrees with seven degrees of clearance that's not a problem at all I can do that I just went on eBay and bought a package off sandwich v CMT inserts advert cheap with with 0.40 metre radius on the cutting edge and I'm going to regrind these two 30 degrees and I also touch off the top surface so I get rid of the the heavy chip breaker that's in this style of insert we're only cutting PVC here so we don't need that then I'm going to machine this will color seventy sixty seven millimeter OD and only eight millimeters thick out of out of this piece of tool steel this is a chunk of o2 that I had sitting on my shelf this is slightly oversized this is 76-millimeter okay I am machined both faces parallel to each other I bored to 16 millimeters slightly oversized sets and I slightly fit on the arbor and I chamfer bit I left the thickness a little bit heavy because I want to surface grind it to final thickness next step will be to cut the keyway will do that over on a milling machine centering the part and the Wyss of the milling machine using a dial test indicator always my preferred method over a coax coax dial indicator this is faster more accurate and doesn't meet as much see height so always my preferred method and you can use it to Center work piece of square workpiece or pick up an edge so definitely my preferred method especially if you have something like this holder that clamps are around your spindle nose so there are using a next down that means that the shank is relieved small smaller than the cutting diameter of 10 mil a next downstream element of carbide ml3 flute and I will be stepping down in one moment increments just slotted to a full slotting cut inverts then do a finishing pass all the way around and there is the key wait obviously you have to go deeper by the radius of your tool so I have to go in point five point one five millimeter steeper than a regular key wave will mute you can do that if there is enough room on your port and the wall thicknesses are big enough then you can get away with cutting a key way with an end mill as you can see so Thiessen fit goes nicely over the 4 millimeter key on a 16 millimeter oliver next level surface grinded thickness [Music] grunt apart to thickness using the kind of rubbery grind method where you spin the part on the magnet ever each pass because I prefer this this grinding pattern on a circular part over just going straight over it doing straight over it always looks a bit almost bit lazy but I I kind of take this finish so I put the blank for the cutter on this this mill Arbor just with a few spacer rings a key in the cutter blank a few more spacer rings and the screw tucked it down shouldn't need whole lot of torque because we have a key in there but better be safe than sorry in this case because this blank will stay on this Arbor now until it's completely finished I will do all the turning all the milling ever sing while the part is on this Arbor so let's go to the lathe put this in the 5 C check and we're good to go speaking of five-seat Chuck this is a 5 C - Morse taper - adapter and I find this highly useful because I have so much more steeper - shank stuff call-outs and the arbors and your 16 Chuck's and whatnot and it's often nice to hold more secret to tooling especially when used for work holding either in life or on the dividing head or in the rotary table or whatever in a 5 c connection so these these more steeper adapters just do it like this and you have an awful lot of overhang which I don't like that will change over to this arbor because it's it's about 50 millimeters shorter so I would rearrange that and then put it in this adapter and the screw will go in from the back and hold the Morse taper in the adapter okay I regrouped put in that after the screws back here I can use my my 5 C wrench and an elm wrench to tighten it down and we're good to go it's still a lot of overhang and we're probably not being able to take a heavy cut on this but that way I can keep concentricity and my angular indexed during all the operations turn down the OD and chamfer the edges so do not cut myself setup was not super rigid as you would expect the overhang from the fashi adaptor than the small diameter shank of the more steeper 2 tooling than the overhang from the Morse taper shank and the large stand out here that doesn't that doesn't make it a very rigid rigid setup in fact for roughing I put a little center drill into the screw of the Arbor here and supported it with Steve tailstock and that was a very Richard setup okay I set the part up of your over table now and we're going to cut the profile that you can see when you look from the top down on the part that means we're cutting this this radius and this angled lined you to give us this this try-try star whatever thing shaped we'll start just by poking in that six millimeter hole that was formed to corner radius you I mapped out the coordinates and cat fifteen point five one over I'm streaming to up front Center will draw that's three times by spinning the rotary table then I will cut the tangents and go from there okay after part on the arbor in the rotary table rotary table is centered to the to the mill syrup gyro and now I'm going to poke in these three holes there we go change over to a drill bit and this is tool steel so we were using a little bit of coolant so I'm using a form element carbide end will to saw out these segments just taking a full depth it millimeter deep slotting capped at thousand rpm feeding relatively slow but still creating a proper chip not dust and works quite well to set up is more solid than I expected I get a little bit of chatter about this is not a new end mill so me [Music] there we go this was probably one one of the last operations this and he'll will do in its life I can hear that it's getting getting dull which is okay because that's why we have n Mills to use them so cut out the rectangular section and next I will have to trim off these corners here I need these corners for clearance I can come down with an end mill and machine the actual insert pocket here here and here these relief cuts are always parallel to the surface next to them parallel parallel and parallel that means that we can just get the set up keep our angles set up move over don't crash into the setup step over the correct amount like this and sawed off this part here too okay now I'm cleaning up the rough belt surfaces for six minutes roof flute carbide end mill just going down take a prefinished pass step forward points two millimeters and do a climb climb milling finishing pants I flipped the rotary table around 90 degrees and into vertical precision and I'm using a two millimeter carbide end mill to cut the relief slot into the center of the insert pocket what will later events pocket already did the first one running at 3000 rpm and stepping down point five millimeters doing full slotting cut there we go okay I'm just whacking away the front material off the pocket seat because I do not want to cut that away when I machine the axle pockets this is just a relief cut or a roughing cut for that matter [Music] I just tapped the M 2.5 millimeter threats for the insert screws and now we'll take the whole rotary table off the mill and put it over on the engraving machine and then we will cut the insert pocket over on the synth seat cutting a template for the 35 degree insert pocket so I can machine them on pantograph machine using a diode test indicator to Center my part my spindle over the pork there's a piece of tamarind this is my this is another template that I made before and I'm reusing the backside doesn't really matter [Music] so I'm over at the pantograph machine set the rotary table completely whoof to work piece on the table of young raver and I'm cutting the insert pockets I already did two of them came out good the VC MT insert fits nicely in there orientation is correct and also the position of the screw hole matches with the insert pocket you generally want the screw hole a little bit offset to the hole in the insert you want it in a way that the screw with the tapered head pulls the insert back into the insert pocket so you get a nice and solid register so let's rotate the rotary table around the next insert pocket here and we're good to go for roughing I will drop the table by 0.05 millimeters just in case vibrations want to damage the bottom of the mill surface and when you when you run a Penta graph or a duplicate or trace amil there are vibrations it's just a matter of fact especially on a relatively lightweight machine like this one as well salt by deckle as a pen ref and graver and light duty 2d copy mill okay here we are but a template table and you can see the Delrin template with the 35 degree we that we did on the CNC router and the stylus rides in this channel or slot and just follows it to create a shape we're after the single hole here in the center this is for alignment purposes I can put the stylus in here the pantograph is then fixed in in the centerline of this geometry and I can use an indicator to Center my part under the spindle of ding raver when you design templates for an engraver always always always always include some mean of centering the stylus relative to the geometry that you want to machine otherwise you have a hell of a time to align things to each other as as engravers and pantograph machines get more and more wiped away by CNC machines or basically they have been wiped away because nobody in who is right in this mind uses a pen to make money anymore with all the pantograph machines and all the old timers gone who knew how to run and set up on pantograph machine it's quite hard to get information how to design something like this properly and use it so I had to come up with a lot of this myself and learn it just by painful experience the way I'm going to do this the stylus will all the spindle will always do this motionless or move in here and I'm just going to feed incrementally in in this direction about point two millimeters each pass which is quite a decent side engagement for a two millimeter carbide end mill until we hit our dimension I'm moving the XY table of the mill to to move in this is better than stepping down because we're not wearing out the end of ten the last bad this is basically manual at that Tiffany sheet or manual trochoidal mission tink Spindler set up for about ten thousand rpm I think in this configuration [Music] [Music] [Music] there we go hope this wasn't too shaky it looks it looks pretty good I'm sorry fence seats nicely as I'm doing all and basically one setup on the rotary table I'm not losing my register in the angular and run out why's orientation so that's pretty decent quite help you with that I think I can take it off the rotary now and do the final steps on the leaf meaning chopping off these edges so one of less steps is to create the 30 degree taper shape and I'm definitely not going to put the compound slide on the lathe for just a clearance taper so I swung my tool around in the in the tool holder like this 15 degree off-axis and I'm just blending the taper and into each other by taking incremental depth cuts you will see that looks pretty good I'm not going to bother to clean up the the tape are all the way back I will have it end in two step here that's big net doesn't matter because the insert is only cutting to a depth of 10 millimeters or 9.5 something I think but this looks pretty good and yes I saw this is a technique to cut steep tapers without having a compound on the leaf we can cut shallow tapers the same technique of course but you have be very careful not to get of course that way so I'm grinding the inserts to 30 degrees included angle plus the back relief and I do that I have two and a half degree of angle locks that and super glued to my small grinding wise here that creates the 30 degrees because 35 minus 3 is 5 half of 5 is 2 and 1/2 degrees so it had to tip it to two and a half degrees and I tilt the device a few degrees that way to create the back rake the clearance angle to the back I'm just going to hit the top of the surface grinder until I blend into the radius setup on the surface grinder I ground the first insert already on one side this is just a D hundred and twenty five diamond wheel it's not super fine I normally use this for my precision ground flat stones not for grant Corbett but it works ecent let's drop in another insert and of course I'm running to dust extraction because carbon dust kills you and there we go I'm just blending the ground surface into the nose or ideas of the insert just nicking the coating there now I have to set this setup up in another way to grant the other side and we're good to go grinding the top often certs down I have just a piece of tool steel here I've tapped em to thread in it which is a screw smaller than the standard standard in cert screw and I I hope things are down with the single countersunk screw and I do this because the head on the screw is smaller and falls into the falls into the counter counter sink and the insert and I do not grind steel with my diamond wheel and that's a very easy setup just just screwed insert down and hit it with the wheel until all the chip breaker is gone preferable all the inserts to the same height I divert the cutter completely a cold-blooded to give it some appearance here are three inserts and the insert screws I think all that's left is to try to hook and before you ask this is what I'm using for cold bluing activator and the cold blue itself but in my mind all the stuff is the same you have all this selenium dioxide based cold bluing and this is some acidic solution I guess okay insert smelt it looks quite decent I like it looks looks almost almost professional mate yeah let's put it on the mill and hope that then it doesn't fly apart I found a combination of speed and feet that works very well it gives me a good finish and yeah that's let's do a couple of test cuts I'm running it at 300 rpm and I'm feeding about 200 millimetres per minute that's about 8 inches per minute I guess something like that works better if you engage the gear [Applause] [Applause] okay as I saw a very uneventful Qatar runs very smooth only thing I get here is this this hairline burr on the upper edge but that's not a problem that goes away for a reason blade and one swipe or just with no mail it was pretty decent to me this was eight point five home we had the conventional milling pass now we'll try to go back an additional 0.5 mm II that the client cutting if that improves to finish I have to go back when I'm ill actual parts have to go back anyway and then climb cutting pass with a part okay that's not good you climb cutting path leeks are very fuzzy ugly finish I kinda expected that going going with with the soft material soft materials generally cut better conventional milling especially something like a robber or even this time I'm going the full 9 millimeter depth okay the upper one is climb cutting and the lower one is conventional milling and as you can see the conventional compass is way way way better I I think if I would run it with coolant or them the fog buster it would even improve more it seems to work not only to make a fixed row so I can machine this 200 moment along parts about the Wyss completely in one set up so I ground one set of inserts and generally in PVC if I don't crash these inserts into a setup or a fixture they will basically last forever PVC has no abrasive tendencies doesn't all any tools just just moves out of the way of the counter that's its yeah not a problem to machine only thing when you heat when the PVC gets too hot you releases you ready gasps it that tends to that's bad for you and also makes the thrust so do not overheat PC be a bit careful and do not burn it in your stove I hope you've done burn any plastic in your stove so hope you enjoyed thank you all for watching [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 58,972

Rating: 4.9554939 out of 5

Keywords: indexable cutter, wendeplatte, flachschleifmaschine, lip 515, optimum, opti mb4, carbide insert, toolsteel, wendeplattenfräser

Id: 1jfk8bpNce4

Length: 37min 20sec (2240 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 01 2018