BEAD Fishing For Steelhead, EVERYTHING You Need To Know! (101 & Advanced Tips)

[Music] [Applause] [Music] hello everybody and welcome back to another Addictive Fishing tutorial today we're giving you aish Board of knowledge on bead fishing we realized it's been a while since we came at you with an in-depth be tutorial So today we're showing you everything from the butt of the rod to the end of the hook on everything you need to know about catching a fish on a floated bead so stick around for this one your fishing life just might depend darn it so right out the gate we're going to talk about one of the most important factors in bead fishing and that is the type of Rod that you're going to choose it is very very necessary to have a Long Rod for fishing this sort of setup number one reason for using a Long Rod is for the technique that you need to use while fishing this setup that we'll talk about more in a minute but secondly it's the castability a lot of the times when we fish a bead we use a fairly long leader so you need to have a little bit longer Rod to make it easy to cast the setup out into the river the rod that I'm going to be using today is an Okuma 10 6 guide select Pro any rod from a 9'9 model that they have which I have here next to me or the 106 model is what you want for fishing any style of float setup we love Okuma there's a lot of different Rod companies out there to use but my favorite is this 99 or this 106 guide select pro model by Okuma the line rating on this one is 6 to 12 LB why I want that 6 to 12 lb line rating is for the flexibility and the soft tip of that Rod when I'm mending my line when I'm making my cast I want a rod that has kind of a noodly tip and as you can see here behind me this thing is pretty floppy and you guys will see more as I go into the technique style of fishing of why that's so important but having a softer tip Rod one will make it easier to cast two will make it easier to manage your line so paired on this rod on the 106 Okuma guide select is my Okuma C40 kimar reel anything of a C40 or a 3000 Series or a 4,000 series reel of any brand is the style of reel that you want the reason we go with a three or a 4,000 series or 30 or 40 series reel is the size and the amount of line that you can have on your reel I like a 40 series reel because you get just a few more yards of line on it which might come in handy given one you catch a big fish or two you're fishing a long drift where you're stuck in a single spot and you need to get your line way out there so a C30 or a C40 reel I think is mandatory for any style of float fishing a bead second most important factor of your setup when you're fishing a bead is your line that you choose what I have here on mine is a 65lb addicted enforcer braid some of you may think that's a little too heavy but you'll see the importance of it as we turn around and start fishing later on in this tutorial anywhere from a 40 lb up to about a 60 lb line is what I really really prefer to use because of the flotation of that braided line braided line is a must in this case unless you're in the midwest or an area where you have very very cold and subfreezing temperatures that is the only time I like to switch to a monofilament or a fluorocarbon line but if I have my choice I'm using a 65 addicted enforcer braid line made by tough line so going down the line and getting further into the meat and potatoes of the setup is going to be my bumper line and my bumper line is the line that I'm going to attach to the end of my braided line the reason this is so important is because you want that line that will actually slide through your bobber go down through the water column and actually sink the point of me using such a heavy braided line is so that it floats which is counterintuitive to getting my presentation down and two in front of the fish so my personal favorite is going with a 15 lb tough line Fluor carbon line on the end of my braided line and I'm going to show you right now how we attach that so the proper length of bumper line is going to really depend on what style of water and how big of river that you are fishing I try to think of the biggest and deepest hole that I'm going to fish throughout the day and then I'm going to make my bumper that length and no longer a lot of times it can be a little bit tougher to cast and again this line sinks so if you have too much of this fluorocarbon line above your bobber as you're fishing your drift that Line's going to sink down and counteract your floating line which is your braid so what I like to do is think about the day when I'm fishing how deep is the deepest hole today we're only going to be fishing about a 6 to a 10t deep hole so that's all my bumper that I'm going to go I'm going to take two arm lengths which is going to be about 12T for me there's six there's 12 and let's go two more for good luck I'm going to cut my line off my spool making sure I do not litter any on the river and then I'm going to grab my braided line and I'm going to join these things so the next step is coming up with a unifying knot of your braided line and your fluorocarbon line personally I like to say only use the knot that you're best at tying there are certain ones that are rated heavier tension than others when it comes to a uni knot but personally I like to tie the one that I am best at and I think that is the strongest knot of all the one that you've practiced the one that your fingers tie best and the one that works for you when you're out on the River on a rainy cold day and your hands are all soggy so what I like to tie is a blood knot there's probably four different styles of knots that you can use for unifying your two lines and here on addicted fishing under tips and tricks for salmon and steel head there's lots of knot tying tutorials so check that one out but today I'm going to show you the blood knot so the blood knot not consists of taking your braided line in your left hand and your floor carbon line in your right hand and laying them across each other floor carbon line on top since I've made this x I'm going to grab with my index finger of my thumb and holding the rest of the line with my other fingers and I'm going to make seven wraps of the braided line around my fluorocarbon there it is now that I have that tied like this I'm holding both ends of that knot I'm going to pinch the entire twist of that blood knot I'm going to run my braided line towards the camera away from my body around the fluorocarbon line and back into the bottom of my index finger and thumb now that I've done so I'm going to take my fluorocarbon line and make seven wraps on my braided line the opposite direction once I've done so I let go of my braided line I use the hole that's created by the two lines crossing each other G back away from my my body again towards the camera and gently pull these two tight as you can see I have both ends kind of pinching down on each other at this point most important part of all get your knot wet with a little bit of spit or river water let both ends go and gently start to pull the two of these together I want to make sure that each of them are starting to grab not one of the tag ends is slipping through I'm going to give it a little more moisture and I'm going to pull it tight and there it is a good way to tell that you did your blood knock correctly is if your line goes opposite directions out of the knot you want your braided line out the bottom or the top and your fluorocarbon line out the other end and that is one of the most important parts of tying this knot if you don't have that cut it off take the time to practice this knot and rettie it until you get it right okay step number two in my float setup is how I'm going to stop my bobber from sliding up and down my line and regulate the depth that I'm fishing my bead at which is extremely important when float fishing a bead you learning to fish a bead little you watch this tutorial okay Bobbers are next no doesn't like it should I use the clear float or the foam float which one clear or foam nope clear it is I'm going to reach into my handy dandy box here and pull out one of the rubber bobber stops now these little bow Mac bobber stops are by far my favorite they come in different line sizes these are the 2 to 4 lb I like to use the tighter rubber on my line so that it doesn't slide around so easy and it tends to not wear out quite as much and also these are these nice bright red fluorescent color so as I'm reeling back in and I need to grab my line and change my depth I can see it well and I can move my line around quickly and get back in the water so the way these work is we have these nice loops on the end of the rubber bobber stop as you can see here I'm going to take my fluorocarbon oh come on hands go through the bottom of the loop identify which one I have put about 3 or 4 in inches of line through the end of it have that line fold over in my hand just like you see here and then I'm going to push that bead and that stop up onto my line over my little fold over here and you can see how nice and tight that is on there so that's not going to move unless I manually do it with my hands and there we have it there's what stops my bobber and a little tiny bead to get me started after I add that little bead in my bobber Stu I like to use either a Corky a big orange Corky or a bigger 8 to 10 M bead above my bobber so that I can make sure that I have no Tangles when I cast if I see my bead or My Corky floating away from my float I know a reel back in and correct it so I like to add this little bead or again the Corky above the bobber before I actually slide my float on all right on to our float choice now this is a big one for people and a lot of times your float choice is going to depict on what kind of water that you're fishing the two that I like to go with most is either a foam bead float there's bead Masters there's these bow Mac Floats or a bow Mac clear drift or one of the clear drift brand Bobbers I really do prefer a lot of times the clear drift bobber because given the situation giving the conditions it's a nice unintimidating presentation and the fish don't see it much the foam flows can be a very good choice one because you can see them very well in the distance if you're stuck on the bank and casting and two they have a lot of flotation to them because they are foam so they tend to carry the bead through the traffic in the water through those Boulder Gardens and off the bottom and keep your presentation going through the strike zone sometimes better than the clear floats but both of these set up the exact same way on your line but today I'm going with the clear drift option now the weight to float that you're going to choose depends again on the style of water today we're fishing with your typical about three that's what Dasher used to do he's copying Dash Man Poor old man the size of float that I like to use for fishing a floating bead is usually about a half to a 3/4 ounce bobber anything bigger than that is just too cumbersome there's no need to have a bobber that big and it can at times affect your drift because the bobber has so much flotation and your bead is getting pulled along too quickly but we'll talk more about that in a second so half oun Bobbers are usually my go-to weight when setting up the bead fishing setup setup setup setup so what makes this work obviously is that inline bobber stop that I just added this way I can adjust my depth throughout my presentation and fish all types of water so I have my bobber stop and my two on my main line already I slide my float on give myself about a foot or foot or two to work with and then I'm going to add just a snap swivel setup now you can use a three-way swivel here with a little dropper clev but one of my biggest pet peeves is having too much stuff in my tackle box so is your typical inline barrel swivel and clev setup work just fine and this is a number five so a pretty big one or at least that's what I'm told I'm going to go my main line which is my heavier line on the side that I'm going to be adding my weight I'm going to do my seven wraps my typical fisherman's knot I go through the eye of the swivel make seven wraps and back through the eye that I created just your normal clinch knot wety knots always guys # wety knots and there we go there's half of our setup now it's on to our Sinker or our lead setup that we're going to put on here it's very very imperative to pair the right amount of lead with the style of float that you're using so today I'm using a half oz float so I'm either going to one cut a piece of pencil like I have here and I'm going to show you guys the technique that I do that but the second option is having these handy dandy Dave tangle-free stick weights in the half ounce version I'm going to take that I'm going to add it right on to my snap swivel that comes on my swivel setup here and there we go little trick of the trade I take my pliers I like to pinch down the little metal sleeve that it has around that so that that thing doesn't come flying off while I'm fishing throughout the day and now for what life's all about leaders and Beads so before we get to beads sizes and colors we're going to talk about leader choice when fishing a float setup depending on your given River your given conditions and where you're at in the country is going to depict what style of line and leader that you're going to use today because we have this beautiful steel head green water we're in the Pacific Northwest with big aggressive fish I'm going to go with this heavy as I can get away with so I'm going to go with a 12 lb tough line fluorocarbon line so given the fact that you're in the midwest with super clear water and tough conditions or out here in the Pacific Northwest and you have low clear water it's going to depict how light you go on your leader line again I have perfect conditions behind me so I'm going to go as heavy as possible but this setup can be done exactly like I'm setting it up here all the way down to even like a 4 pound fluorocarbon line or a monofilament line monofilament tends to work just as good as a fluorocarbon line in this setup but what I find is with the fluorocarbon it is ultra clear and very hard for the fish to see so next we're going to talk about leader length which is very important for float fishing a bead it really depends on the size of bead that you're using to how long you want your leader so I'm going to start off this setup with about a 12 mm bead up to a 4 14 and we'll talk about those here in a second but my go-to length usually is about 5 to 5 1/2 ft so I'm going to go from my left peack out to the end of my arm and then I'm going to make my first cut the key to the length of your leader is really depicted on how far you want your bead away from your weight setup sometimes the fish can be a little shy of that stick weight and or the pencil lead that you have on your line so I want at least usually over about 3 to 3 and 1/2 to a length of about 6 ft being the maximum length when I'm using my 12 lb test so I'm going to put that 12 lb right on the end of my other swivel here typical clinch knot again don't want to be too fancy # wety knots and pull or tight all right drum roll please time for beat talk now there is such thing out there as a bead nerd and I contend to be one of them why I say bead nerd is because there are so many different SKS different sizes different color and different types of beads out there on the market for you guys which can be very confusing at times to me each and every one of them work nine times out of 10 any lure you see on the shelf or any bead you see on the Shelf at your tackle store has caught a fish before that's why that color exists so having a good range but sticking within a realm of practicality is very important the three types of bead out there that are the most relevant in my opinion are one the original hard bead two the soft bead and three the ineter the Incognito bead so the first beads we're going to talk about are the ones that started at all and that is your hard bead what sets each style of bead apart is the density of the bead and really the presentation ultimately a lot of times the hard bead need to be pegged to your lines so that they stay in place so that you get a good float so I'm going to show you exactly how we do that to be the most effective and keep these beads away from your hook and we'll explain the importance of that here when we talk about our hook size choice so if you learn anything from this tutorial today it's one trick of the trade that we've been using a lot over the last couple years my man Cameron black is the one that turned me on to it and if again you take anything from this tutorial it's using these little guys right here our bead best friend so what I have here is my glass bead assortment kit and having an assortment of these isn't that important a lot of times we want to use the smallest and the clearest one that we have possible and that's this little guy right here so let me open this pack without ruining my day and get one of these bad boys out and show you guys okay careful careful nobody panic nobody panic nobody make any sudden movements either please o okay oh cracked it so what we have here is a tiny tiny glass bead and why this is so important is because this little bead is what's going to keep any of our styles of beads from sliding all the way down our line to the end of our hook which is the worst place of all to have your beat so what I'm first going to do is add my bead to my line and we're going to talk about size and styles and colors of beads here in just a minute after we get through our setup portion but I'm going to take my 14 mil bead I'm going to put my line right through that bad boy Let It freely float on my line and then grab my glass bead and somehow get that 12 lb test through that tiny hole success now it's onto the hooks next and most important choice in my bead setup is going to be the size and style of hook that I use now I'm I'm not just doing a hopeless sales pitch here but we worked on this hook for a long time and in my opinion the best option for any style of bead fishing at all is our addicted Advantage bead hook made by mustad now the shape band and point of this Hook is what makes it so special and I'll show you guys that right here and this again is a hook that we researched and tested for three years here at adicted to make sure it was perfect for this style of fishing so I have a size three we come in four different sizes with our addicted be hooks we have size one which is a little bit bigger something you're going to use for like a style of bait we have size two which is honestly in my opinion probably the perfect size of all size three which is a little bit smaller and size four for your smaller beads your 8 Ms your 10 ms and again that lighter more stealth presentation but today I'm going with a size two now there's many many ways to tie this hook onto your line some people like to use an egg Loop or some sort of bait loop on their line but the way I like to tie these and they not that I like to use because of the way that it holds the hook and I'll show you that in a second is just again your simple Fisherman's clinch knot seven wraps back through the eye # wety knot and pull her tight now I'm going to show you where this little glass bead comes into play I'm going to slide this thing up my line to about three fingers I like the three finger rule here I got about one two three fingers above my hook and why that is so imperative is because if my 14 mil bead actually slides down all the way to my hook you can see how little hook Gap there is presented if that fish bites that bead that hook can slide right through their mouth without being touched if I have that bead away from my hook the fish bites the bead the hook goes into the corner of the mouth perfect every single time and that is what makes the best bead hookup beads are notorious for losing fish so allowing this setup to work the way it does so the fact that that glass bead sits on your setup the way it does and keeps your bead away from your hook the whole time is what makes it so darn effective the way I'm going to keep this thing in the position I want it is I'm going to put that bead again three fingers away I'm going to do a double overhand knot around the hook just two wraps I'm going to slide that back over the hook making sure it's in the correct position wet that knot a little bit and then pull it tight right around the bead and that's all you need everybody simple as that I find very very seldom unless there's some sort of damage to the line or you're using something like an eight or a 4B test this is a very very strong and sturdy knot around that bead and it doesn't break as much as some of you might think out there my second to last step before starting to fish is I'm going to double down on my bead Peg I want that thing to stay right where it is above that glass bead and if I don't Peg that bead the rest of the way it's going to float freely up and down my line and at times won't be sitting close enough to my hook to actually hook the fish if a fish therefore grabs my bead you can use either a toothpick or one of these clear Brad's bead stops and these are probably the less intrusive on your line what happens a lot of time if you use toothpicks is it can tend to damage your line I'm a big tooth Pig fan but today we're going to show you how to use these and it's very simple all I'm going to do is I'm going to slide that little rubber tube up through the middle of my bead just like that I'm going to pull that tight sorry Mom pull that tight take the other end making sure that I save the other end of that bead stop and I'm not littering and there you have it that bead stuck to the line but not so much that you can't move it around and add scent and so on and so forth now I'm going to take that move it all the way down to my glass bead and we're ready to fish now one last but very important step is adding a little bit of extra weight to my leader line the reason I use such a long leader and this I wouldn't even call a long leader this is about 4 and 1/2 to 5 ft is so that I get the most natural presentation out of the bead as I possibly can this thing should look like an egg floating down the river that is the idea of fishing a bead is that it has a very natural and a very organic look as it goes through the water column in front of those fish so to do that if I try to just cast this out with just my lead the lead will go to the bottom the bead will float up because these things are buoyant especially when we start getting into talking soft beads so the way I'm going to do that is I'm going to take my hook and bring it down to my lead and that spot that is right in between up here at the axis I'm going to take a split shot usually a size seven to a size 10 pretty small I'm going to take my size six split shot open it up lay my line into it make sure that it is right halfway in between my bead and my hook take my pliers and give it just a nice soft squeeze to make sure it stays in position and there we have it we have my lead which will be sitting just off the bottom my split shot which will take the bead down into that Strike Zone and give us that nice organic natural drift unwashed and ready to fish so now that we've covered the single hardbeat on your line we're going to talk about the graduated method and that is a double bead where applicable again some places in the country some of the rivers that you guys out there might be fishing might only be single hook regulations but if not a double bead is a very very effective way of covering more water and finding more fish ultimately because without saying it we have two different presentations on our line which is one of my favorite ways to fish now this is very simple add all we're going to do is take our size two hook and we're going to add a piece of line with a normal clinch knot to the end of it just like so I'm want to go right on the end of the hook shank using the curve of that hook as my little pendulum I'm going to take and make seven wraps again just a normal Fisherman's clinch knot run my hook or run my line back through the hole I created # wet your knots and there it is that's how we attach our second lader line and my rule of thumb is if I'm running two beads my bottom bead is always going to be a smaller diameter of bead than my top bead so what I have here is a 14 mm bead and 14 m is about as high in diameter as most of these hard beads will go anything bigger than that it will get a little heavy it doesn't fish quite the same and you're going to want to go into the soft bead realm which we're going to talk about here in just a second so when adding that second bead the rule of thumb is always have a smaller bead and today I'm going to go with a 10 mil bead and this is very simple so now instead of using the glass bead because I'm using a smaller bead a 10 mil an 8 mil or a six I'm actually just going to wrap my line around the bead with the same knot as I used to tie my glass bead in on my top leader so what I'm going to do here I have my naked leader down below my first hook I'm going to put my 10 mil bead on my line just like this and today I just chose another trout bead kind of a model bead with a blood Dot and here I have about two feet you don't want too long of a lader on your dropper line because it will cause Tangles when you cast and that's one thing I'm going to talk about once we hit the water with this setup is how to properly cast and how to properly lay out your line so that you avoid Tangles and effectively fish with each cast now that I have that 2 feet I have my bead freely flowing back and forth I'm going to take a size four hook because I've gone with a smaller bead just like we talked before when choosing your hook choice and I'm going to go with the size four bead which is the smallest addicted Advantage bead that we make and I'm going to tie your typical clinch knot once again seven wraps back through the hole # wet and there we have it so next and final step to adding my second bead and again this works only with the smaller beads 8 mil 6 mil up to about 10 mil if I get any bigger I want to go with my glass bead setup to stop that bigger bead the reason being because you can't get a very tight wrap and a very nice presentation out of wrapping your line around that big bead so I'm going to run down here again going with the three-finger rule I'm going to get my bead to that three-finger Gap do two overhand knots once again over my hook point just like so and slowly pull it back onto that bead and look at that perfect placement nice smooth edges on that knot so that you're not getting any kinks or AB brazing your line whatsoever which is going to cause you to lose or break fish and there we have it there is our second bead setup we have our weight about foot and a half down to our first split shot another foot and a half down to our 14 mil with my glass bead size two hook 2 feet down to my 8 mil bead 10 mil bead and down to of course my size four hook because I'm using that smaller bead Let's Go Fish it all right ladies and gentlemen so in front of us here here we have the perfect style of steel head run the beauty of a bead is that it can be fished in every single type of water I can fish it from dead stagnant water that's barely moving with a tidal influence to a rapid where the water is moving so fast you don't even think you could possibly fish there what I have in front of me is your quid essential steel head water we got 3 to about 8 ft deep nice Boulders spread out throughout the Run walking speed and a nice flat surface to the water this is where I want to try to identify where to find fish if you guys want to learn more about how to actually read water and fine fish there's other tutorials Marlin just actually came out with one recently that really breaks down the dynamic of finding good water for steel head so reference some of the other videos we have here on our YouTube channel and then come back to this one for these bead setups but I'm going to go through it quickly here and give you the gist of how we fish this the biggest question I'm ask when it comes to float fishing of any type is how do you know you're on the bottom the thing about this bead fishing is you don't necessarily want your main weight on the bottom so therefore when I start at any hole I'm always going to start as rule of thumb at about 3 fet deep on my lader length especially if it's in a run like this where I have that distance of depth where I'm going from Deep to shallow throughout the run the best thing in the world is finding an aggressive fish that will come to your bead and eat it cuz we all know those ones are the most fun so a typical rule of thumb for me when fishing a new hole is I always start shallow and work my way deep and I'm going to try to show you as I fish through here what it looks like to find bottom so initially I'm going to start with my 3ft depth and what matters here most is your angles of casting and how you approach the hole my big big big rule that I preach in all of our addicted tutorials is how we start close middle and Far So what I mean by close is I walk up to the run here in front of me the first place that I can identify bottom is about two Rod links out about 20 ft out in front of me I see a dark deep green pool and no bottom from here down to the end of the tail out that's where I want to start my first cast so I'm going to do just that always starting with my shoulders pointing down river line going up at 45° on my first cast about 20 fet out or so I'm going to bring it back into the first seam that I can't see bottom and I'm going to start my fish and I'm going to start my drift as you can see so far I have a nice straight tot line to my bobber I'm not affecting my bobber I'm not pulling it towards me like you see here my line isn't down below my bobber pulling it through the run I have a nice steady drift my line is above the bobber back towards me with no pressure on that bobber about halfway through my run I'm going to open my bail and I'm going to let that line freely float a small tip I like to give people when letting line out is not to let the current and the Bobbers resistance pull your line out of your reel and just holding it here you have a 10-ft rod I'm going to point my tip down at the water keep my bail open point my rod up to 90° above my head and then I'm going to close my bail and let that length of line that I just let out fish that way if the bobber goes down I can be as quick as possible to grab a handle of my reel start reeling and apply pressure to that fish now that I've made one cast through the run my second cast is going to be about 10 ft farther than I had just initially casted my first cast so I started here on the inside I'm going to open my bail look out to where I want to cast and send her flying one very important thing when casting a a bead or any sort of long leadered setup is to try to stop your bobber and your bead setup in the air before it touches the water why that's so imperative is so that we avoid Tangles because we have this leader we have the split shot and we have all this bead set up at times if you let that line pile up on itself you'll get Tangles you'll get wraps and you won't actually be fishing throughout your drift so what I'll show you here is one of the most important parts of bead fishing and that is stopping the line in the air I'm going to cast make sure I'm I'm clear behind me I'm going to go out identify where I want my cast 3/4 of the way through the cast I'm going to stop the line with my hand make that bobber come tight make that bead go to the end of my line and it all Lays out flat and sexy on the water which will allow me to have a tangle-free drift so now that I've made my halfway cast across the river I'm going to do that close middle far strategy here comes my far cast and this is where stopping your line and creating that nice flat layout is so important cuz when you put a lot of effort into your cast and it goes a long way that's when that bead and that bobber have time to do the pendulum effect effect and ultimately wrap so make sure to stop your line and now our line management comes into play you can see how I have a big belly of line down below my bobber that's not what I want when fishing this sort of setup so what I'm going to do to mend I'm going to grab my line I'm going to lift it up make sure to mend all the way to the top of your bobber don't half the mend the process I use to get the proper mending in a cast is always casting up River at 45° never higher and never lower what I initially do is I let that belly form below the bobber so that I have some line to Mint what I always preach is mend at the first third the half and the 3/4 of the drift most complete drifts usually do not need to be mended more than three times given the style of water so I'll show you what I mean by that right now I'm going to cast at 45 stop my line I'm going to let this belly initially form so here's the first third of my drift I'm going to lift my line High amend it to the top of the bobber and I'm going to let it start to fish because I have that perfect point of contact I have line on the water I don't even need to have my bail open for security here's my half of drift I'm going to lift my line up again fix that belly down below my bobber and let it continue fishing now I'm getting down towards the 3/4 of my drift my drift is almost over so I'm going to lift my rod tip high at 90° make my mend all the way and continue that fishing with my bail open and my hand close to the Reel now that I've made my close middle far cast I know I have an hit bottom because I had a vertical bobber the entire time I'm going to give myself a little bit of depth A good rule to live by is never add more than about a foot of depth at a time there's no reason to go extreme on your bobber depth changes we want to work our way down in the water column because those fish aren't always right on the bottom sometimes they may be migrating sometimes they may see your bead and come up for it which usually poses for a better hookup so I've made my three close middle far casts I'm going to add myself about a foot of depth and I'm going to see if I can find the bottom going to repeat my process now start with my close cast so you can see now my bobber is still straight up and down it's not showing any tension against the the bottom of the river I'm not dragging whatsoever and my bobber is still sitting vertical what this means is that I still have not gone deep enough to actually touch the bottom you see as I start making my way through the drift right about here my bobber is leaning a little bit it's starting to move around that's because my split shot is touching the bottom which is the perfect drift now I know that I'm at the proper depth now a quick example of what to deep looks like so here we go now I'm going to be to deep to where my main weight is actually touching the bottom and you'll see instantly the different characteristics in how that float is floating so you can tell already I'm I have a lot of movement in my bobber it has a very steep pitch pointing down river because that main weight is dragging and not just my split shot my line is starting to Candy Cane down below my bobber and I'm getting again a lot of movement out of my bobber due to the resistance of the weight touching the Bottom now this is how you know you're too deep and you don't need to go any further in your setup and now there is no need to go any deeper with your bobber stop because you found the bottom of the river okay everybody now because we have still a lot to cover in this tutorial here I'm going to cut to a Quick Clip of what it looks like when your bobber goes down and it is actually a [Music] fish goodness me look at this thing everybody look at [Music] it [Music] Platinum Look at that everybody what a [Music] specimen on on take your time really take your time here we go good job Bill good job we did it yes [Music] yeah Swing Swing keep [Music] coming nice first steel head oh got him oh my [Music] God pretty pretty as they get is special all right on to the double bead setup and really what I'm going to show you guys here isn't the same tactics as I was fishing but more stressing on how to stop your line and lay this bead set up out so that you get a perfect drift and you don't have Tangles we really really really need to accentuate stopping our line in the air and properly doing this comes with how you start your cast I'm going to turn and lock my eyes on exactly the spot that I want to cast 45° up River I'm going to make a very soft and delicate rainbow cast and what I mean by rainbow cast is very soft and I'm going to leave my tip at about 45° over the river when I stop my cast now that I'm safe behind me and I know both beads aren't Tangled I'm going to Let Her Fly keeping my tip High stop my line about 15 ft before it's to its destination and make sure that those two beads lay out flat and flat onto the surface of the water I always say if you see your stuff pile up if you can tell your beads are Tangled in the air don't risk it don't waste your time reel in and make sure you get that Perfect cast when you're fishing this double bead setup so what I like to do also with my leaders the last little piece um is I like to put these on on a leader board you get these at fishing you can get all the stuff pretty much everything that you've SE me use here today other than some of my custom heart beads that I do uh you can get on the addicted. fishing website so I'm going to take use this leaderboard STI the hook in first and this is a great way to constantly be ready I got my split shot already on there all I'm going to do if I break off is grab one of these throw it on my on my swivel and be fishing and what I like to do to protect these in my bag is put them in a little zip lock so I'll do like gallon Ziplocs see I got my jigs in there got some extra beads rolling around in there cuz that's wow those are fishy look at those typical bead guy ooh look at my beads check out my beads guys okay and then I zip that bad boy up and I have basically just a nice little protective layer over my my leaders so they're not get messed up in my bag let's go [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] fishing

Channel: Addicted Fishing

Views: 36,250

Keywords: Bead fishing, Beads, Fishing with beads, How to fish beads, Steelhead fishing beads, Salmon fishing beads, Trout fishing beads, Fishing, Addicted fishing, Bead fishing tips, Advanced bead fishing tips, Bead fishing 101, Float fishing beads

Id: -9cyOCYGEl8

Length: 36min 24sec (2184 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 17 2024