Adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 - Finals

[Music] here she comes from human inspection where viola is Yaya seems that we both had the wrong idea that government well Yaya was qualified first from semi-finalists the mutual [Music] Oh no no that and the one and only Japanese Miho nanaka [Applause] [Applause] [Music] coming up now we have Sabha Ito from Japan she has only 17 years old absolutely incredible performance in the semi-finals really exceptional climber very interesting to watch great movement following her another Japanese climber only 15 years old absolutely savage this young lady destroyed the boulders was one of only three to flash all four mothers in the qualifiers I more er next she is very youngest competitor sixteen years old [Applause] coming up next from the UK she had a point we have Great Britain's own she stamped her ticket already to the Tokyo 2020 2020 Olympics we have Shauna Roxy Roxy and 1975 those from her she's already posted a photo on Instagram look what she did on one of the boulders the third molar some very interesting pizza dough check that when I after this is finished because definitely worth a laugh whoever lasts athlete out now qualified in six current gold medalist in fans in no loose kentucky avenches out next amazing strong slovenian 18 years old she's not oscar that's a different climate she qualified sixth going into finals and she will be out first as the competitors induce crunch so so well in the semi-finals totally deserves that place most of heart through profilers and a very hook seven suction 50 [Music] now in the men's side we will be having the top qualified male from Austria Gloriana Tingler absolutely incredible for phones from him float winglets totally Boston that first round next athlete hides their amazing climber his won World Cups and he placed second in the semi finals all the way through Slovenian twins to the for curve isn't it no disadvantage on one job the boat in Reverse for them we are doing reverse order so the top of the wall Holger [Music] is another Japanese climber one of the three to qualify for finals and the top six twenty years old kind pirata [Music] [Applause] [Music] it's great to see kinda rather out there world champion for 2016 next out another Japanese kleiner took gold medal this year in Vail so psyched to see him back so I should tell me man I'm a right by saying Yoshiyuki Ogata you are correct we didn't have a script second of the three Japanese climbers we have in finals tonight we do amazing climate great style winners next up we have from Slovenia 24 years old Gregor vesnik he qualified second in semi finals and will be climbing I believe then could I go pencil-neck took the gold medal first today if it's Korea back to Munich 2015 Liam who do we have coming up next just by sheer process of elimination session I'm gonna go with Koko Fuji honestly I can't promise anything this is our third of three male Japanese climbers in the final sex so just to recap on those that show the consi I am okay Futaba ito [Applause] and in the men's we have a cockerel fuji the red corpuscle Nick Yoshioka Chandra one so here come the two first athletes mooshka Brockovich and kokoro fuji cooker fuji is another japanese athlete [Music] and so ladies and gentlemen we begin cooker food you gettin straight in there with a brush a rock event louche car qualified seventh in the poettering broad cab overall in 2018 really nice use of those stacked volumes there to create three dimensions on the wall that lack he'll just below our hand there on that screw on that's the little pop of the he'll answer eunuch in notice that there's two spear ons on the side of that volume that's what she was putting her heel hook on but she didn't manage to get her way over to the left enough to god that zone one [Music] please all have four minutes Kokoro Fuji the World Cup overall in 2018 [Music] [Music] so here goes [ __ ] it off tries to skip that zone hold and went to the top which is actually a risky move considering Falls to zone are actually really important but what we didn't see off-camera was that you have to zone so much Baraka vetch reaches up to take the zone and she's often out of the lap team he'll hop this time see if she can move her body weight over to the left in order to get this gasthof second you know that you can get up there nice and high [Applause] the strategy that each competitor has with their allotment of time is really important because they need to decide after they've fallen when they want to get back on the wall every ball counts so there's something to be said about getting as many tries it as possible to have as much of a chance as possible but also you want to save your energy [Music] hang in there campers in between the moves that bloom for you all when he's back down on the mats [Music] there's good secure is that zone mode and is trying to move my body weight over against the cream with the right hand oh and sheep juice pops up words like super she rushed it a little bit she didn't move over to the left in time to get her body over opposing gas tones yes this man's problem doesn't really pay too friendly to the feet all the fingers by the looks of it 25 seconds remaining for Coco Fuji [Music] Picaro is using all the time that he has to have as much of a chance as possible to get to the top who's gonna catch cause a dame with his own [ __ ] on Fuji also with his own notes up we go through time next athletes ladies we seen great britain shana cocktail yeah she's already stamped her ticket to the Tokyo Olympics next year each then on the men's side we have Gregor vesnik from Slovenia [Music] how could our future so strong in that move but couldn't quite get enough pressure through the core and then up through the hand let's take that move after these competitions the competitors are going to be very sore from these Falls toys with the reload Center this video is dedicated to helping our happiness rock stars supplying six of the best physios in Germany for inductor focus shuffles clinic associates Great Britain shoulder cup see sonic oxy has a really a pattern of not necessarily qualifying first and semi-final but often she knows how to turn it up in finals she does indeed performance extremely well under pressure [Music] so stands up under that volume to begin for [Music] Shauna cropsy is trying to get up onto these volumes you see if she opts more [Music] powerful show believe that to reach down to nice tow tow hook system art decision because she can maximize her right while morning pretension Dutch needs to walk her feet over strong to that all dead first of the two gas tons for just pops out finished a first attempt to impose a gas size with a really low play has a lot of strain on the shoulder blades [Music] cause Shana hat that nasty nasty shoulder injury in 2016 I believe and a nasty finger injury in the last couple years but seems to be in fighting form she placed third in the world championships in bouldering this year absolutely amazing work from her to come back from those injuries small shrimp on that right hand you can see squeezing with there some doesn't quite hit seems to be falling out from the wall and not really holding his attention as well as Picaro food you then [Music] Jonah [ __ ] de Liam is a really smart climber she knows how to pace herself on her approach to the border problems not waste attempts and maximizing the time that she has she's she really knows what she's doing and that's something here when you get to climbing these climbers you really see that that intuition knowledge confidence in self confidence in ability [Music] rolls over ourselves to take that right hand Seana coxy it makes you so that screw odds on that blue volume with her hands and her feet will flicker the [ __ ] that I don't think it was intentional but it's wrong see if she gives me remove her hips over to the left and hold that guests aren't just misses it really have to stand up so hard into that loop gregor busily with a mini romanian says no thank you [Music] sure i was considering it every top matters so much but this woman is number one and men's member hwhiteland st atop [Applause] when she goes [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] Trevor says thank you it's not sappy for her today on that bow there anyway and just in case you aren't familiar with the rock stars form at home all six athletes get to climb the first two boulders then three athletes get to come the third Boulder well only two athletes get to cuttin afford folder well these athletes really needs as many stones and it stops as they can get if you want to be able to chance propel them into the super final so far leading the women is Shauna clumsy after that first bowler of the two competitors with because she got the Joads first and flashed to the zone great work from Shauna coxy securing first place so far for more ladies to climb for more magnetic lines it is rare that the first two Boulder problems really matter as much as they do yeah yeah but nothing in those first two in the men's I we had the hi Marie who's at least 16 years old the youngest competitor in the field from Japan she's not only the youngest but also one of the shortest as well so she's quite an ingenious partner I would say she climbs way ahead of her years such intuitive movement really quite small that when it comes to just pulling things out of the Baggett's yeah she believed a genius here is Yoshiyuki Ogata took gold medal in Vail its first earlier this year it seems a little bit like the zone isn't advantageous for the rest of this is an order problem on the men's side I'm Mori was one of three competitors to flash the boulders going into front qualifiers to semi finals [Music] steps across on them stacked volume reaches over into that much like if I go you know it's unique to watch each competitor on these problems because each of them are different rights different body bells different strengths and weaknesses and so they're also competing on the same boner problem so to see their approach is really interesting I amore is probably the shortest of their competitors pretty sure she is indeed the shortest [Music] [Applause] [Music] that goes by Murray into that right hand crimp you can turn those fingers that I'm worried matches that Little River and Spencer really then the first woman to complete a woman's number one something that Boulder in fine style he said earlier she's one to watch she just briefed us right while she may be the youngest competitor and the shortest she is definitely dynamic and very powerful so all eyes on her two million compatriots Yoshiyuki organza he wants for the feet first method but furnace Mottola may actually be the solution to hold this compression amazing matches in winter left the crowd is going absolutely wild here he throws up to the top edge [Applause] gentlemen our first stop in the men's competition from Japan it's Yoshiyuki Ogata so now we have this standard set both boner problems have been completed tops our first two count so I'm Orion Yoshiyuki I've got to sit in that first place see that replay so strong in the indica I'm or he gets deep on the bicep to catch the legs in control that little match that is such nice movement rolling over itself in that high right foot really very very clever climbing the goal in the route setter is is to create a separation in the field and to have ideally each Boulder problem be completed should not be completed by too many competitors so the fact that we've seen both a male and a female sent on the respective folders is significant [Music] so here we go ready for our who we got next so I share in the ladies in the men's coming out first is high honor and on the women's side we have Futaba ito awesome who become their ears cut Harada bouldering world champion last year in Innsbruck 3 2 1 turn around the top of Ito on the right hand side for the ladies [Music] Futaba Ito doing a quick resequenced of the boner problem to know exactly where she's going as you can see with double tape on both of those volumes it hinged needs to have two hands and two feet on each of those respective border problems [Music] that's it you can tell that body tension that she holds but not quite enough are left and what that little yes Tom best result this season was silver metal second place in Wu Jiang there's the third Japanese flavor we have outs in the men see he's IMS 360 sequence that we just saw not call attention to that [Music] Futaba ito check it out on the mats taking a moment just to compose herself knows that she can get up there so that's the execute a little bit more through that bottom sequence so that you can isolate in the top structure what do you think yeah boo tell me a joke God to the zone want her first try however it seems like she needed to move her body a little bit over adjust her hips and she slips getting the zone this time what ranked fourth this year best result was fifth in Chongqing patella EJ also won the Asian Championships which as you can see in the field clearly not easy feat to do in 2018 but to fire Rada campus's first move you see such a body compression in those hearts [Music] top of itto reaching down again will she up to use that tow hook this time no still stands up again static over that right shoulder a little slip WeDo fights to regain her composure and crimp down on that little Gaston looking for that right foot hole but uh-huh I mean holding those absolutely filthy crimps and then just waving your foot around that cannot be fun [Music] something that you can notice as the competitors approach their motor problems is figuring out when to rest and when to go and give their try back on the wall Caja rider ops to go into that back hand again big press switches it to 2-under carts and though he's on the smokeless portal sticks it takes a big crater into the mats Futaba ito is determined to get that next cast on but her right foot can't seem to stay on ten seconds remain for these athletes looks like they're gonna call it a day [Applause] and that's just about time for these two competitors Jeff - Mona please joining us through the favourites for the super final according to a live studio guests veteran competitors jeong-hwan Sean of Korea for the men and in the ladies mijo nanaka last year's champion indeed she was [Music] let's see a replay here almost a head press into that big volume you actually got bonus points for using your head in this competition that's not true from of the very literal amongst you I never done forgiveness so we don't see it acknowledged good this mini ring so she let me give you a quick rundown of those results so far fourth place in the ladies Lucia Careca vetch then Futaba neutona coxy type ii ie morally definitive first place the men's competition Gregor Vezina came forth another tie the second in the men's tie Harada and Coco Fuji and then it's Yoshiyuki Ogata again a definitive first with the only top so far and we're waiting for the next shoe athletes as you've just said jung-hwan of Korea Japan [Applause] and they'll be putting themselves get champagne to qualify for the third folder after elimination you know is such a powerful yet graceful climber I love watching her she has really good style so here they go to find that you're on it demonstrates another tow hook taking a moment to shake out training for the lead comes and she slips just going tights out microns processes back or he's got the job but that's all [Music] my son [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] so Jung Jung Hwan [Music] [Music] me on a napkin out reaches down with that left hand ox for the heel or parts to remember these athletes haven't seen the method that the others have used an idea what they actually have to do all they have is the discussions that they had right at the beginning in the observation round the holds also on that stage are definitely getting chalky and greasy and so you can see this you'll want to brush them definitely create some opposition is shorter power between these two hearts while he's really tall he's also a very flexible climber which is impressive see if we can use his height to his advantage as asked to make this next dynamic move he's they're actually pressing these me against the whole third it almost took it it wasn't a proper knee boss suits just like a new book Mohammad naka is trying to figure out how she should use her a keel muck or her tohe Shana coxy - is he all right - no she actually just towed down [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Mia Tanaka climbing on women's number one try not a new [Music] [Applause] Karis design [Applause] Oh inside the box thinking the Kasbah the outside can't bar me on a knocker intro and Chun unsuccessful so only I'm re and Yoshiyuki Ogata with tops all know what that means for the super final is this a little premonition that we're getting here a sign of things to come who's going to be stood on the top later way to find out lunch on don't bring some opposition first the tow hooks and worked and now he doesn't cap bar doesn't it seem like he gets just high enough on that orange pitch [Music] so first place qualifying session footy in Cleveland and young John brats honey I read had an undefeated bordering world-class season and three gold medals at the last World Championships in Japan she is such an incredibly graceful climber dynamic powerful the whole package absolutely one of the best climates in the world male-female no doubts of Exeter's total all-rounder one of the most tenacious you'll find really see her being down about that small ships and airplanes at least pretend you're trying Yaya give us a break reaches up for tops loafer highlight form the volumes and flashes I think Yaya is starting to make us see who which women are competing for second ha ha that's what they hate to speak that's what young you does believable she even broke a sweat I don't think putting cling there over their own men's number one amazing flying cling layer 25th in the rug nuts but did a really amazing a performance here in rock star so far made it to finals problem now he's always had the potential as well so she you know you come yeah we've already kind of said it but the field is so stacked just because he's not one you know I don't you don't write these primers off they just need things to go their way I mean look at yo Nate crudos Gabriela Maroney they were competing for 10 13 15 years before they got their first ever medals both of which were calls and playing clinger holds the compression as it campuses up onto those not positive black on just need it to go your way that once and the gold can be yours whirring Klinger taking a moment [Music] playing clinger taping his fingertips these holes are so new and abrasive it's kind of like the competitors are rubbing their hands on sands sandpaper and then having to go back and repeat it loosen the shoulder there there you see tightens they are much stronger position Peterson controls the zone Sabina really seems to be create 360 compressions you can move your toe hook in and maneuver your body around these really sloping home oh so many almost comes in that just lost his car very very close in Cleveland full house hearings took God the Porsche arena it's a Saturday night with live music and an incredible show of climbers [Music] [Applause] [Music] playing Claire uz this muscular he is really powerful climber and also defeated on this Boulder and there of course young gun breath laughing this falters look like somebody give her a few steps to get up there it was that easy Noah grimace no effort in the face with that with that flash and plenty anya in first moving on from the first polar problem absolutely does to women top only one man top on the first Boulder yeah Nia was the only flash six three four five mijo nanaka loose Kirara Kovich the top of ito Shana coxy amore and then you can bring as it stands top three going in Shana coxy a morning and younger gun Brett everything can change on the second ball that the men's connect or fastenings Florian twinkler carry Harada cooker or Fuji Chung hong-won and your she feel gutter and you see that cutoff session until you open them at soup I'm all the way around into a second complete rotation first coming out first will have Lucia I recommend Sylvania as well as kokoro fuji from japan this second border problem will be the second deciding factor of humans on to the third Boulder only the top three of just six competitors will move to this next Boulder lishka achieved the zone on the first corner let's see if she can get a talk [Music] yeah [Music] so let's go bet your homes across just misses that this spotter problem requires a running just a lot of agility climbing competitions are somewhat related to parkour these days at least when you see bouldering it's becoming very volume oriented you need to generate your momentum in the direction that you're going [Music] Kokoro Fuji just struggling with that move there Mucha caca vetch lines it up big swing without left foot and the left arm behind it to get the momentum going she needs to Courtney or her left hand to get that zone hold in time has her hips and her feet push off that left black volume [Music] hmm seems like coca refused holding that left colluded arrow possibly hamstring [Music] kvetch bouncing down onto the mat the current suji Gary now due to this compression zone [Music] really interesting to watch every different card is a but let's see how much cut this time you've been that lifetime foliage inside swinging it behind it looks like her right hand kind of slipped off that last one I really love that they manage to keep variety within the folders as well you know I think last year and the year before across the whole season Parker became just Souls revelant and now I feel like he's back a little bit because a good mix between both was like this and then some of the more powerful ones like we saw first start preparing Fuji really needs to land his foot on that horn lose guys her life but her body over [Applause] [Music] [Applause] 45 seconds remain lishka sighing out where she needs to go she knows where her foot needs to land very composed though [Applause] Sakura Fuji it looks like a privilege against that cheetah volume push it into the undercut position now gains momentum adjustments up and not so up is going to costing us so close ten seconds left for a Quebec and Kokoro Fujinami no time she's going anyway just for the zone [Applause] smiles from both athletes you know how closely what next up Liam we are going to have Great Britain's own Shona coxy as well as Slovenia is Gregor vesnik see the joy in their face that's one of the fun things about this competition often the frustration isn't there it's just happiness they love the boulders the climbers really look what the setters the dividend so it smiles of frustration as opposed to anger it's really exhausting to be in a bouldering round you essentially have this short period of time to put all of your maximal effort into each Boulder problem out come the next competitors let's see what Shauna [ __ ] oh you can do at this Boulder cool as a cucumber as per usual shuttlecocks east rolls out onto the mats [Music] greco fastening very good at this dynamic style generally the slovenian czar i have to say the selenium guys we live our way up fencing through these boulders kagrenac wastes no time to get on the wall [Music] [Applause] [Music] Janikowski doesn't seem to gather enough momentum why she's moving across those foot logs to jump up and get that zone [Music] yes more really good hi in that black volume there kinda caught me off guard I know you got and then almost needed to drop down onto that crimson I feel like that's a hard [Music] Janikowski is attempting to go last hand on the blouse feel like just logical that she would need to go the other way around but we'll see which usually has method to the madness [Music] that's the interesting shy jury the Gregory Hines [Music] [Applause] [Music] Shauna coffee is known for being able to unlock the sequence through the folder as quickly but can't quite figure this one out yet seems like she needs to get her right hand on that blue volume in order to press and generate enough momentum to get that zone mode and as we've set all of these attempts and all of these zones and tons really can give it only three athletes will go through to their third Boulder if you want to keep up to date with the mine results you can do so at www.arts.ms.gov [Music] shock she knows that she needs to get this down really neat this top actually could record vestnik quite a high at this time [Music] [Applause] [Music] Seana cop sees chesty do so to go right hand after that volume it just seems a little bit it was low on energy currently defensive methods both she didn't look strong to that time [Music] for getting close obscene but I left turn down in the right hand look 42 seconds to go what you think is that enough time sonic artis racing no time to try and establish on that blue hold but she does enough compression and we seen those halt its second can I go pheasant it hops up again oh just misses good I mean Skippy the whole element I mean I mean get his butt down on that volume and time I just feel like dropping down once or volume and catching a hole that's in you've got a sizeable and drop down to the constant ways and says thanks we'll watch the sage next up we are going to have I'm Maureen who qualified first after qualifiers into semi-finals our youngest competitor and we are also going to have Yoshiyuki a gotcha from Japan as well indeed I am really excited to see how I am worried figures out women's number two being the shortest competitor but also she is really dynamic she is super dynamic there's only one way we'll find out how she did cause we had a very dynamic folder in their positions and the ladies copies in the semi-finals just take that so maybe she can do this [Applause] here is I Maureen three two okay [Music] [Applause] so here they go we should kill got a men's number two hey Maury and when it's number two [Music] Yoshii you know gots it just blows in through the ad that it was like you got probably just stopped Mauri Mauri with a big like swing really good distance not quite enough momentum to kick the foot across let's see how they adjust on the next guy the span of these broads alone it is pretty lengthy hey Maury tries to palm against that volume [Music] Yoshiyuki oh god sighs looking absolutely in control now incident double underhook on the big volume very tenuous position second in kind of all happy with that [Music] Yoshiyuki Ogata [Applause] Yoshiyuki was definitely be moving on next round absolutely well hi good morning [Music] [Laughter] swings not left like really far back oh I'm Mori is trying to bomb I guess that first black volume in order to generate a little bit more height those words alone are pretty stretched out for her and then she has to run across the walls and catch that bus known [Applause] this problem certainly isn't suiting her small hey but I'm not right center off sucker you never know I am worried as well ninja let's see what she does wha the foot was in a much better position that time I hips a little bit far light from the wall she can just turn up those hips that will keep my center of gravity closed I should be able to engage that right shoulder she's close if she can generate a little bit more leg power off that left leg in order to jump off of it [Music] just don't get a minute remaining something that could work Brian soiree is to match that pollute volume in order enough to establish her left leg and jump off of it it looks like she was attempting something of that sort one thing I have to say though for a 16 year old chief Perry composed even after three minutes of climbing over three minutes and falling she doesn't seem to be getting full stood on she's getting closer I'm re as tenacious as well she actually came third at the World Championships and leads so endurance is not something that she lacks she can go and go and go and go 23 seconds remaining hi Maureen getting so close to establish yourself and create some opposition against that left foot [Music] haha she really I thought she has the book one she's going to buy my with the final buzzer hey Marie absolutely sensational just forever very very close didn't give up until the bitter end one o'clock so far still put her in second place [Applause] [Music] Yoshiyuki gotta managing to Christ against that way in cheetah volume and it's actually in the no friction' corner as well so that's one of the areas where there isn't any friction so the hold of the warm arrived that volume is completely frictionless something unique about these walls is the fact that they are the first draw tax wall at the world in a climbing competitions in a climbing competition and I mean there is no friction to smear against on some of these wall surfaces now easy to tell actually which is which you know you have to really go up and look at it and feel it so their place lived on that but you know from a crowd perspective it's not necessarily now on the women's side coming out is Futaba Ito from Japan and on the men's side we have kaya Radha pochamma ketone 17 years old hi Harada 20 years old relative youngsters in this year's on the table at each other's a little bit taller than I am Maury she's generating her momentum looks cold straight away that something that these athletes are going to have to experience as they try these motor problems is building that muscle memory in the short for minute time period that they have to actually figure out nothing off the sequence and reduce London that Jodie really timing five like this it takes a couple tries to actually learned in the movement and know exactly what you're asking your body to do just scopes that hold looks the left had [Music] Ito now on their attempt just needs to keep it together now Sasha atomic itaú mantling at one hand on the top she lands on the top and there it is ladies and gentlemen each other ito [Music] that top is going to be really important as we go into our elimination round before the next boulder problem absolutely is that's gonna make a big difference one top now to soldiers soldiers try to make sense of that move looks like his hips aren't quite far enough across that bike isn't sticking that flat hold on the car [Music] [Music] [Applause] world champion balls rainy move on Latinas gross 2016 hi Hirata is taking a moment to consider when he's gonna get back on the wall in order to maximize got a love that less than 90 seconds he goes [Music] two fights ticket Denon skipped that little hole [Music] oops it's 45 seconds Sammy himself a one last go and he really needs to give everything this time come on Kai oh sit down oh my gosh 30 seconds remaining as calm as you buy presents name the side of that sheets of volume 20 seconds to go to the crowd and says what are you going to take absolutely incredible really at work from former world champion 2018 was his year 2019 civilian rock stars egg-cellent was a burrito on that very very tricky little mental at the end there but made it look super easy topped it was very very happy about it this of course was chi breaking the boulder just killed that swing you can also see that these holes are dual texture it's the shiny portion of the orange holder no texture whatsoever [Music] result session occurring six points why she is winner mr. Kabakov edge in fifth place sho'nac oxy in fourth place anymore in third place young new camera in second and Futaba ito in first makeovers in a key in sixth place for slovenian Somalian clearance first place followed by a hundred won last year's second in fourth cooker of Fuji in third harada in second and Yoshiyuki Ogata in first now don't worry those results still you have to change because of course we do have me Hana naka and yummy gum Brazil to climb we do have Chandra won everything can change and now is Miho nanaka and John launched on mijo is in need of a good result on this boner in order to make it through the elimination round if she flushes she could get him neo lied with her table a little bit quicker than she lied with her teeth John watch on a lot of speed at all would see a ring for me no they're not correct my max is correct [Music] displaying the first few tries to try and figure out what exactly they need to do one almost sticking that but not quite high enough that was a smart maneuver of mijo to really establish yourself on the wall and be able to port near momenta [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] lines up again in bets little closer that lifetime in the right direction now just wants to find a little bit more strength in the course of you always keep that weight forward as the competitors go against the dynamic move like that it's interesting to see how many swings they decide to take before actually committing to the move because that racing will swing actually takes the amount of energy and mijo it's deciding to not actually swing to just generate from her first push and then run towards I done super interesting to watch all the best things about climate in my opinion is you've seen the different debates are the different methodology vision establish that zone kicked his butt out laughed managing to find that stop beater on the flat holes there into that undercoat on the volume they express into those underside the grippy underside of the tutu volume adjustments to stand up and catch standing up off that really matter to us mirror volume isn't exactly easy close enough to 23rd [Music] 50 seconds on the clock dangerous territory there for me on Anika up on that Boulder underneath the cheetah hold big grassland into those on the course and needs to get those from Universal position this time [Music] [Applause] breaking stuff for chumps [Music] now how does that muscle memory down to dial it to the demo see if he can stand on the top of this volume and press it out he's really taking this one to the wire with five seconds remaining last year [Applause] very strong position absolutely amazing stuff ramchandra one because seven tries tangram work buzzer finish [Music] and is restoring the results their meeting on the MCUs did Hitler Stalin and that was the girl she must not scream she just wasn't quick enough to the top what a shame that was a real heartbreaker but brilliant effort to get out there and this was the buzzer-beater French on two hands stops the swing on its London so guns are finish there you can see how much it means to him just in time challenge on carries that talk [Music] I need a minute after that one suction well you have our final athletes out now well we have yonghe gong ray from slovenia employing Ziggler's coming out last on this second Bona problem absolutely do Yan Yan flash that first bullet Robin [Music] Yaya just misses the usable part of that blue first volume [Music] so she goes [Music] so accordions touch that stop hold using that left leg to generate a little bit of momentum [Music] that's even good with each try Anya gets a little bit closer ticking that sound horn [Music] Yaya knows what to do I think she has the body positioning in her mind [Music] absolutely brilliant stuff from the onion ghagra and i have to say i'm not surprised that she got it searched phenomenal climate it's just a matter of time with her stands us with two feet onto that volume in that front position we're gonna turn them to the top and that's the right matches the finish young you gone brass secures the top and of course a secure place the flat corner [Applause] [Music] probably expect him to get across there again and it's just a case of getting up and hitting that we're told as we saw the chug jeong-hwan it's possible the buzzer finish is possible and looking at his fingertips definitely raw Hamas rounds of attempts [Music] [Music] right side of that black volume to establish a contact tree back into those undercover cheats uh volume over the right eyes it up and stick sex [Applause] that's really important top leading on from the first sight of two broader problems it is indeed than unless I'm mistaken that's all folks the links below they'll be charge flown in clean black and Yoshiki after they go through their session suction - Julian I love to you instead of the telly don't mistake me Magana yah yah if you do that one sorry it's you great of a competitor for you to compare me chairs oh no I need more coffee young you're gone bro this is fine style rugs those volumes establishes on that sloping top gets up there finish it strong Yaya is just unstoppable after that full rotation we're gonna see full replays of all of the climates again Sasha and when that comes on we're gonna go quiet who is your favorite top on that Boulder Mahnomen favorite top on the men's side was definitely jeongwon chime at that buzzer finish my favorite performance the woman was Jana ombre well look at that those are the top three Quinn through I'm already put summit Ito and younger Canberra to Japanese at once living near the competition competition the top three going through Chung hong-won Florian slingback and Yoshi kill gotta kinda ride a cockerel food ruins Gregor vesnik missing out on the third Boulder and of course we now have a new final woman start list starting with I amore followed by boota boota ito and then lured Yong Yong hombre first place comes out last three are setting great looking Boulder you see the dual texture hold I one of those spheres three volumes from Chi to that stacked on each other with a hold on top where the roots that are decides to place that zone hold means there's typically a really challenging move getting to it Jenna really challenged getting to that top Mauri Mauri as refreshing let's go to this boner problems sequencing it she had two minutes to look at it prior to final starting and actually making sure she knows where all the hidden wallets are lots of it as well score on these massive yellow volumes let's put it up with my friend starfish against these yellow volumes so good at the toilet really good content you know and just pops up there that right told cutting loose and let me interesting to see if she goes right hand and she decides to throw her right foot up on that zone and then turn around [Music] first we have the woman that left so hook again oh and just misses a lifetime I am or II really start sharing hips up into her into the wall to generate as much power from the holes as she can when I wore a client's it's kind of like she's like a suction cap to the wall yeah she's incredible and the clever way of fighting these moves steps in this time the right time stays true look at that she's in Salvage I am I created a thumb pinch of that awesome matched off the right husband listen brilliant such strong finger power [Music] I believe [Music] the Sun is but what a pinch in the right strong in the south manages to keep that car tension and comes in with that marching Emmett doesn't stick in less than a minute remaining last attempt anything to go by she's gonna keep trying you can see that I am mooring is doing a really great of sequence on what maybe it reaches sequence otherwise perhaps one thing I know for sure is that if she sticks these new suction will go absolutely wild first laughter luck then she switched her over to the right Toma right on the edge of that hold up with the right hand matches in with the left into that we're finished if she's created pretty sure that's not what I set as intended oh actually almost digs that spear but needs a little bit more height she's havin another go [Music] Oh just nothing outside for night money [Applause] [Music] [Music] every time I eat oh right we go through the women before we go to the men [Music] next up we have another Japanese timer Futaba Ito you can indeed here she comes 17 years old what a bit taller than a newborn [Music] 20 five minutes have begun [Music] Futaba equals last time looking at the sequences remembering where the orange holds on the she establishes quite quickly interest is that very slow crimp up and right she has the sole [Music] and crimp initiatives again nice tone with a lot to reach over the left hand those are quite hits it you wanna move you can see your hands right just under where the orange go on watch this generate a little bit more power I just want her hips over to the right [Music] [Music] [Music] and for morkul cheetah [Music] Futaba taking her time because she knows that she can get to the top of this border problem she got just under two minutes left [Music] The Tao to each other getting between these two volumes [Music] charging a really challenging left-hand Gaston Norwich capture this sloper that's actually a dual tech sloper that means that shiny portion you see is not texture at all where her fingertips are sliding you to see them sliding against black of frictions to places that I put in the crate two hands on the topic nowadays mccrane and the latex down the gauntlet for the rest of the ladies Futaba in so absolutely phenomenal diamond Futaba Ito will be in the zubur final [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] to that pain a little bit of extra high just men that she could take this hold there's a full gas done and the next hold as a crimp and also for Gaston crossed hands to then get over the shoulder you see her trying so hard engage in the back but watch this left hand here why she flips it over you can see the shiny portion of that sloper so gross brilliant second though I have to say so actually the roots is a little such a phenomenal job since I mentioned them I'm gonna give them a proper shout out the deserving mid broadcast hello and Laporte supported by Mattel the poorest certain supported by an impersonal Nick Tamar Lexi Manuel has slaves tsukuru Horry Felix Bookman and then two female senses Israel so good to see them in a magazine Connie layman and Melissa win of a bringing some really amazing blocks all the way through to this final round they've all done such an amazing shots we've still got a lot more climbs to go earlier we've got iyanya coming out we do indeed such shows how many goes Yaya well she flashed this problem I'm gonna say yeah I'm not gonna jinx it okay four minutes we know a Yong is capable of so much more than this Boulder problem really nice into that left pin up to that crimp in the cross through as well [Music] Mayans are such control tropes that left knee in cheekathon knee bar that all respect to you and you got bread style points I give her an extra style pointed you took a hangs off the shake cuts the follow using catches that right hands yonder God ray doesn't even hesitate to stick that one army and another class you carry on then you're confident ladies and gentlemen Nexus at total assumption really amazing I was not deniability [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] look at it why not I mean it was so quick good luck such controlling Sasha she never looks stressed she also goes about these boat our problems with such determination and control that she knows exactly what she's getting into and what to do she is just so good at solving the sequences and then so strong to be able to do them I just so psyched I borrowed the timing of her release is that TOEIC was really important in her being able to patch that long move outside right stir in orange hold on that yellow volume and Bantle up to the top [Music] very nice so the results of these tests and young Ugandan break go through to the final in the ladies I'm only knocked out take third place of the brothers start yeah 2019 [Music] coming up on the final for the men we have jeong-hwan Shawn Florian kingler coming out first yeah three climates in the men's you sure you can't got to have plain clean black and shan-dro climbers advance to the next round Sean really needs a top here if he wants to secure a place in that super final you're sneaky Oh captain if he tops is guaranteed a place and let's get a look at this Boulder Oh Liam it looks like this is our crap lying Boulder that we scoped earlier before it'll be curious to see how the boulders figure out this sequence tell you what session I look crack climbing here is John one time with an initial hand jam needs to chalk that some in you see just like boats his knuckles of stay really needs to talk to Tommy yeah Kevin Jones Davis yes give me the presentation I think you would find this hand Jam a little bit easier I want to see Kevin on that snow snow and on the outside and he can reach across and compress here nice okay John's making his way through okay I need to do a second run there it is another jam I think again a higher jam and it really secure a jam a little bit higher he's probably good but he's fighting a little on the crack come on Shawn oh that's what redundant Jing holding these happens he's not used to I mean I reckon right that size one here maybe the audience would weigh in no can't required is so good it can be so low [Music] [Music] maybe I don't want Ron could have done it takes love for his hands for this born problem that would be serious this started volume is actually something that we've seen a lot in this competition I think it's called the egg you can call it that if that's what you want it to be Colts uh sure makes sense me that John trying is trying this hand Jam again moving out of it create a lay back and get this tone wrong such a heartbreaker for John because you know three consecutive that are at law three consecutive three attempts and that's super final and three silvers I do love how we are getting this whole relaxed have different voter problems testing each of these climbers different skills yeah I mean I think that's truly you all both the competition should be about its testing a whole portfolio that's one of the throws that's a combined format in my opinion is that it really does test everything there's a lot of Cubs as well but the pros is that we have to see these moments are truly made now less than a minute remaining nine for Chung hong-won jeong-hwan Shawn [Applause] he knows the jam to do this time oh it's for you to watch come on buddy compassion strong left carried not sound now let's see if he can move up in the car he does that elusive but in a craft super flexible hence he needs to transition his body over to the left come on John 15 seconds honestly that's just like she really paid off I know many of you guys see the cracks and climbing gyms but someone currently sits in second place so it all comes down to the chlorine cleanser and flow can do this then he's to talk Sean hands if one gets the zone they would have the same amount of zones but Sean would have got the zone quicker yeah so really needs to top this if he wants to go through you see the blood on the knuckles there just wasn't super power in those jams I mean to go for that move with that leg right hand down you know if it gave him a crimp II would never do that yeah it's so interesting watching Kline is out of the comfort zone just unable to make that one work a little bit sketchy torches here in that position as you dynamically moved off of it I don't want to see it broken hands I think he's too father's jumping for it against oh here comes slow clean black from Austria [Applause] a really powerful strong climber [Music] [Music] actually getting a jam her first shot [Music] sucks that left hand in good direction of that not opting for the compression but then goes back with that left hand music is really powering through his shoulders not very comfortable in that position oh and the slight lack of reach on Sean it's causing some problems there [Music] entertaining or painful too much works like car crash TV I think it looks pretty painful to be honest the thing is these holds are so friction II just elbows up full in the crack apart the sides of his back you might actually pull it off the wall but it's not what you do funny that gentleman there we go definitely wants to has his jamming good compression now he's gone I'll put the right hand down with the lab he needs to switch that hand oh and he doesn't quite have that bad I hope we have some tried climbers watching this is definitely trending right now a threat out there again and what I think the Houston I replace if this road tried Klein would be number one you guys can weigh in on on what side piece you think they require on your end clearly it's a boulder problem so not so necessary [Music] his own [Music] [Music] swearing Kingsley looking place the cognizance appalled and that's always stuck it's more than happy to give it [Applause] here it goes got past this zone horn [Music] [Applause] [Music] way cooler so fine and achieve that so much sooner John wanton but [Music] it's kind of [Music] Wow Skip's corner column [Applause] that couldn't be gonna be known he told us that the new structure is impossible to check in fine style written wrong playing singly gets through that gnarly Jim crack again manages to top out the third quarter problem and it's the very deserving of a place in the super final Sunday watch it again just like so painful monkeys up the middle so outside the box really smart climbing to just see that compression that here create between his left foot and his right foot just generate enough momentum to throw to the top yeah it's very Yunho yeeah that it reminded me of when Yunho he was in the super fine all those years ago managed to skip all of the moves get up there on the top cheeky monkey that's the way you see what the Roosters think about Yoshiyuki Ogata Yoshiaki a gotta already has two tops you know it's your show Yuki's already in Korean clean was in sadly no super final for Chung hong-won this year [Music] [Music] [Applause] so Yoshiyuki Ogata who has tape clothes oh yes here you I got to had enough time in the athlean Lounge to prepare one do i relearn that from maybe Yugi oh yeah baby you cheat here oh yeah of course from the fake Japanese climate indoors and outdoors I'm never using to the jammers [Music] figures out and his ability to skip the rest of our Robin toes we really seem like me yet journeys brought cousin hands over and it's looking at that next hard what should you kill got to convince it now in my left side [Applause] [Music] [Applause] when you're competing you have a relative idea of how your other competitors have done but it's really difficult to gauge an actual knowledge of what you need to complete on the boulder and be certain that you're moving on to the next round so while we has an audience may know that he may not need to actually complete this Boulder problems be at the super final he may not know that [Music] [Applause] [Music] Yoshiyuki this time looks like you might find the message to people up to me two people have unlocked [Applause] three stalks for Yoshi you killed that's a concrete place in that Superfinal the only climate should stop all three builders so fob puts himself in a very strong position cuz I super final win [Applause] [Music] so such a super finals younger Canberra boots a burrito yes you kill gots a flurry and clean [Music] Yoshiyuki crimping the very top of the volume as well the clear leader is going into the super vinyl are you Chiaki and [Music] could I go hey sonic fifth-place kokoro Fujiwara Jang won second place flirty and cleanly and first place Yoshiyuki Ogata fear Cleveland OH got two three two [Applause] this is possibly the best exciting moment of the competition definitely agree me the edge suction the most exciting moment young you got brain on the right hand side of your screen Futaba Ito on the land Japan versus lavinia here we go twice world champion in Boulder and [Music] ethics seems to be taking a little bit of our time [Music] [Applause] [Music] what was impossible younger taking the crown from Yanis the undefeated bouldering World Cup champion swingley sensational finish surprised absolutely amazing she's got a great call me fine it's a great semi-final so will I finish here we're gonna go straight to the max indeed from Japan 19 years old Futaba ito [Applause] Futaba how is that feeling with us respect Taylor crowd like this to be the adidas rockstar this year enjoy it did you expect it to coming to strip that you're gonna be winning adidas Rockstar this year because you elite specialist as well say yes yes Futaba Ito Yahya amazing winning all six World Cup events this year a triple on the world championship a hard season coming to an end what do you think about the victory today about Futaba I'm so happy she's so strong so she deserves it how was the Super Bowl did for the very first time we had a dual texture Bowl so what do you think about the new Super Bowl in yeah it was fun it was fun and a crowd you're champions Futaba Ito and for the very first time [Music] Florine Kingler making their first [Applause] [Music] [Music] your she's in the lead before you come on that connect who's gonna hear that remember the aqueous cannot feature [Applause] [Music] [Music] well you keep trying to crap right little crap that he's actually crushing right now absolutely savage names just skip the next their sticks it again Yoshiyuki still on the mat you can see that [Music] yogi is trying to see what up on top of the Superboy it's a three sloping of volumes melted together [Applause] both men have tried a boat she was curious to see what she was both on the ground and both - you got to back up against local England trade both pizzas hopes to get the crowd support as well Yoshiyuki is looking at that little scorn but so sure that's so close well what's gonna happen Liam if you're not a man on top I mean it happened a couple years ago it was Jesse and yeah Munich American who just came down to everything first is out there's no stress he's just keep going just keep god I think so that's what we ate a couple years ago it's just gonna turn into a long red pointer Sasha we could be here oh look it's not 11:00 yet [Music] [Applause] look when US sticks the move Yoshio got two sticks the move right hand up for flow and match ones match now flow doesn't hits it don't be sorry says 40 seconds left [Music] this is exciting I'm nervous I have to say I would I'd really like to see someone hit the buzzer before at least serve I know 30 seconds looking at each other like this police game on nuts at Yoshi y'all got to going into this final super Boulder Yoshi uni was actually in the lead I wonder if that's relevant when it comes down to the tiebreaker either they're neck and neck again Yoshiyuki guess his left hand on flowing gas his left hand on yoshiyuki misses the top and so does flow and so we're gonna listen to what Michael Symon's next [Music] [Applause] so it both go back into transition Mike's gonna have a chair in head referee the probably say sticker jug on in the middle and then we'll bring them back out something along those lines at least they could make that little spear on to the right a little bit more positive to comes I saw this dish we have taken two years Yoshiyuki Ogata and Florian claims I returned but one last attempt here and they go in a super nice super polar bear in mind they haven't seen what's changed 20 see their body languages they realized another fist bump he realizes just the crimp who saw this flower Yoshi some first hops across catches it so this club one hand two hands Yoshi you kill cats are in the lead right now pops oh he skips here anyway [Applause] he was capable what I have to say about that session is all weekend he has looked dominant he performed spectacularly in qualifiers he was sensational in semi-finals and after a studying final he absolutely crushed that super final Boulder and very well-deserved victory for Japan's Yoshiyuki Oh gutter to Japanese champions and the series adidas rock stars some worthless bum Yoshi she now feels Yoshi how was this feeling to stand there on the 2019 beginning Mr Gruber oh it petite obscene cannot hear him so how is this feeling to stand on the top today on the editors Rockstar Boulder yeah it was just unbelievable because this isn't my first time Final Four - rock stars and for me this completes the most enjoyable compression in the world I was just hungry everyone so happy thank you very much for the compliment what do you think about the spectators huge stood guard yeah they gave a lot of powerful meaning I've found the water right big audience and big handicrafts and I told works well for me thanks so much Erica - Cosima flow was flowing cleaner they can often Sue's it's also an acid estimates of it get ready for your presentation Yoshi we going on the other side flow here's a that's my blood theatre these acquisition illustrator or either in the performance will give loses its discrete acts of stood capsicum one time super phenomenon 13 yeah don't miss a Sangha Dima our events a blanket of kids nicer as we have another ominous we'll get this varmint secured in camera dual textual some it's competition wall at sweat comfort handles position the RSF our life better about Malcolm oh yeah as oh yes they're right up 5,000 on 19 floor cleaner [Music] third-place representing Korea John watch I'm such a favorite of this event we're the great effort from chubbs he really wanted to win this year but it still evades him [Applause] Danny comrade of course second place in this ladies competition something rare to see on you're not winning but such an incredible sportsmanship displayed by Yaya in second place from Austria it is glorious Winkler takes that silver star huh going into the finals he was first place we were surprised by there and coming into finals he was still very much the underdog but stop that silver medal and took that second place style composure and well deserved coming up in this first place ito when such an incredible performance throughout this competition [Applause] [Music] [Applause] and of course taking the gold star home the auntie Deathstroke Stars champion 2019 hurt your back wanna don't wait Yoshiyuki Oh gah [Music] I gotta performance [Music] one thing I will say Sasha is all my up in st. ice 16 years old she actually turned 16 on Mondays so she's technically still 15 which is all the more impressive I'm aging her too soon she's almost 16 amazing pony and their six incredible athletes Japan is strong as ever two podiums rather - top of the bodies podiums for Japan Yoshiyuki okay Tony whatever eats out take their plate in history [Music] the rock stars of 2019 what an incredible show means competitor and six competitors top in the world really brought their a-game to finals tonight they absolutely did I don't know about you social I had a great time that thoroughly enjoyed that you know I need to come tomorrow not see you that but I see you then there's plenty of them these days absolutely inspiring and also really informative about just watching the competitors and how each different competitor so of the secret them and put together these puzzle pieces absolutely that's those checks the Japanese team is going home with folding

Channel: Bouldering TV

Views: 874,049

Rating: 4.8306313 out of 5

Keywords: climbing, bouldering, boulder, competition, boulderingTV, hightlights, replay, recap, final, finals, rock, sport, climb, battl, 2019, mendaki, batu, 抱石, 攀登, クライミング, ボルダリング, bloc, escalade, क्लाइम्बिंग, Cup, comp, Olympic, games, live, stream, livestream, asian, скалолазание, боулдеринг, masters, broadcast, खेल, スポーツ, 運動, 岩石, boulderfest, ifsc, ADIDAS, LIVESTREAM, ROCKSTARS, stars, Music, Porsche-Arena, Porsche, Stuttgart, Yoshiyuki Ogata, Futaba Ito, Janja Garnbret, Florian Klingler, germany, rock climbing, shauna coxsey, miho nonaka

Id: 5qIPZrwnQak

Length: 114min 35sec (6875 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 17 2019