Abused GUCCIs get some TLC

hello this is Steve from be those leather works and today's projects are we've got some Gucci shoes that we aren't going to resole now these two pairs the brown and the black I started already I wasn't gonna put in a video but I figured you know what might as well be a Gucci day today so but the main one that we're gonna be focusing on and doing during the video is this pair right here these have seen some other days let me tell you anyway so want to start taking this apart and resoling them on this pair here particularly we're going to be paying attentions a little bit on the uppers work like dyes and clean and adding color conditioners so hopefully we'll we'll make them look much better than what they are now all right let's get started all righty these are called reverse pliers so when you squeeze them they open up instead of closing so basically I remove these were spittin that up very gently the reason I removed these is that because what I'm trying to work on the uppers you can't really get to this area right here where it's stained the metal rubbing against the leather will definitely stay in that area and you can try to get underneath it when you're trying to polish it but you're not going to be very successful as much as this way at least now here where the heck out of these shoes man I mean the uppers are in really bad shape so we're gonna focus on the uppers of the day to you now you got to be careful now some shoes these are really weak metals right and when you try to open these rings up you're gonna break it Gucci's not not bad I've never had an issue with gucci breaking some of the lower quality ones like cole Haans and that kind of shoe you're gonna have that have an issue so you need to be careful when you remove those I tried not to remove those and the lower lower quality shoes just the fact that you know you're gonna have an issues and anything that noise again anytime that you're repairing or restoring something you don't want to create more work than you actually have to do so I try to stay away from those issues all right we're gonna start with the heel base and we're gonna move forward on all right let's continue now most of the I shouldn't say most of them because I'm not sure what dictates which shoe styles are how they're you know constructed this particular one is blind stitch so blind stitch meaning that you know we open that up stitch it and close that back over the stitch obviously that's the same way as this one is but this one is not this one is just glued on it's just a glued construction those are called blake stitched blake stitch they're basically stitched from inside of the shoe to the outside the goodyear Wealth's are stitched from the outside of the shoe okay this isn't this is neither or nor right neither nor neither or this is basically just glued on this is a glued on construction normally I leave the way that the shoe is made I leave it the same way like for example if it's you know blind stitch blake stitched cemented but this pretty little pair i think i'm gonna do i'm gonna do a blind stitch like the other one but once the sole is removed I've got to get to the I've got to get to the footbed because that's the problem footbeds got a hole in it that is the problem can't leave that the same way as it is obviously these are the small meals that are inside right there see those little nails they need to come out say hammer from there and it pops out and you pull them out they're supposed to sometimes they Bend okay I see we're gonna do now trick is gonna be he's putting this thick thing back together don't you take it apart and make it feel like it wasn't taking apart well it's gonna feel different because what happens is that when the footbed changes its going to alter the feel of the fit okay and not not in a really bad way shouldn't anyway I'm gonna try not to change that feel for him but the difference he's gonna feel is that it's gonna be a new footbed and he simply got he simply simply has to basically just break the shoes and again I mean this isn't this is really this usually doesn't happen like this on a pair of fairly new shoes they're not that old you can see the impression of the foot right obviously that's the ball of the foot that's your that's a big toe or that's the big toe there and the other toes there now I'm guessing this guy sweats a lot right because this sucker usually doesn't get like that that drying track like that Wow anyway so we're gonna replace that piece now this is a this is our pattern we got to keep this so make sure that we cut it exactly same way as when we took it apart so the actual fit doesn't change the the what's going to change is basically there's not gonna be a footprint anymore so he's gonna have to kind of wear that and then the the footprint will kind of form and break in that's the break-in period of the shoe so while we got it in this shape here there's your shank right there by the way which is in good shape that's the other part of the foot but we're gonna keep so well we got in this shape here we're going to go ahead and try to work on the uppers and see if we gonna bring these back a little bit all right let's continue all right so what we're gonna do now we're going to replace this piece right here what happens is that if when the heel is a little loose on you your heel goes up and down and starts wearing that piece down and pretty soon you're gonna have it being torn like that now the way it's done is that once this piece is peeled up like this it gets stitched here if I explain look here it's like this is called like a French binding almost it gets stitched like this and then it flips over just like that and this is what you see basically but in order to to remove that you've got to remove all this stuff to you so here's one here's the other one done so basically I had to remove that in order to get to the end of that leather piece so now this is all finished now this is dark brown as you can see right but we'll tint that a little bit better to match the uppers now we get to put all this stuff back this needs to be all hand stitched back on the size right here and then we can move towards working on the upper some more as far as color and and adding some moisturizers to it all right let's continue I suppose I could have put a piece back here only but I don't know looks better this way see how the leather is kind of starting to match already I mean it kind of faded a little bit footbeds in here it's still not done footbed is ready this is a piece of leather okay so the other one we've got this back leather piece replaced we've got the front part REE stitched and the footbed is it's all glued but that'll be kind of hammered back together now if you look here you see that black fabric that's a nylon piece that goes all the way around and that is what gives it that shape in the back so it doesn't stretch out of shape it's there for structural support those shoes have that all right and she is done all right let's continue was in sometimes I cut it too short and when I start again it just pulls it back out can't succeed the first time basically this gets flipped over like this and I get stitched all the way around again fire let's continue that's how we stitch that skin they're slowly but surely all right let's continue so now basically we're just going to research that vamp area back to the shoe it's just the curved needle with nylon thread so this is what it'll look like after it gets done just like it was before if you didn't tell anybody that was taken apart you wouldn't know it that's the whole idea about repairing and restoring items you try to match as best as possible to original wood it used to look like you're gonna tweak it sometimes but I change it drastically unless otherwise it's known ahead of time and agreed to the customer that hey you know what that's not gonna look like it anymore so make sure that you get that agreement beforehand and everything is okay but whenever I whenever I look an item I usually know what I need to do and there's no issues there are no issues all right so I won't bore you guys here for for 30 minutes just stitching this on but you get the idea all right let's continue all righty so we have the stitching done okay now we get to clean the surface with some acetone now you can use turpentine you can use some turpentine if you like or maybe some rubbing alcohol to make it a lot less it's a lot less aggressive but basically this is in pretty bad shape so I chose acetone on this one so we can just kind of get it down to the nitty-gritty now we're on the toe area right there we're gonna sand that and dye it you heard me now when this when this vamp was off I did clean underneath on their side of that and I put some conditioners on there because that's gonna be difficult to get in there completely like I explained last time and that's about it right there well let that drive for a little bit while that's drying we're gonna take some sandpaper now I have anywhere from 120 to about 600 this started out as a 120 it's probably at probably over 220 now over 220 now on the edges here are still course it's the worn-out area right here see that circular pattern there that's worn out when it when it starts wearing out it starts tearing basically so it's got to be replaced this is this is from the numb cake the numb cake is a round circular disc that we're saying the the bottom is most of the time so we're gonna take that worn outside and we're gonna lightly sand it yeah you don't want any coarse sandpaper obviously for obvious reasons is they're going to do more damage than help yeah we've got a couple of areas here that are kind of torn we're gonna put a little bit of glue just to fly that surface out I won't stay in that area let that's cure a little bit little bit here's peeling up all right there I'll put a little bit of blue there also press that down real good smooth it out as best as you can overall I mean it may look a little rough but I think with a little bit of color it'll come back pretty good I'll come back very good actually once we got that smooth it out and we'll just kind of gradually work our way this is 1,500 this is 600 here this is 600 and then once we gradually gradually gonna go to higher number sandpaper 1500 I guess is the highest I have that'll give it a nice smooth surface now you just have to keep at this because it's not going to be one one pass of sanding and and making it smooth so we've got some fiebing's dark-brown die we're gonna die that area now I'm using a dog were here for the toe only the rest of it I'm gonna airbrush it on there which is the same thing same same die now you got to be careful right I had my finger on the acetone and my finger was wet if I lit it up my finger would have caught on fire so you just got to be careful I mean this is you're still dealing with chemicals well let that sit for a bit come back buff it and that'll show us some of the more imperfections that we you know the areas that might need more sanding and will continue to sand them alright let's continue [Applause] I'll write a writer right you all know what time it is it's that magical time yes sir all right what the soul a little bit all right to make sure that everything is Center and a little cute good forward just a little bit look at that the uppers are coming along just fine I put the number 12 on there too because that's a foot size number 12 you see it cool all right let's continue now this is a round brown trimmer blade most of the blades are flat like that so the edges of the soles are flat also but now we're going to do the edges of our Gucci pair is gonna be round it's gonna be round like that so we're going to use this trimmer right there okay alright let's continue now we can stop here at this stage just finish the edges and put the heal on and finish the rest of the shoe this would be a glued on construction like it was originally but I'll take that one step further to make it structural support by putting a blind stitch on this is basically called a blind stitch we cut that open and we stitch it in and we cover it we hide it this is very dense leather tough to cut I'm kind of surprised this isn't this isn't stitch down well it is now well the Wolvie I should say this is gonna be Blake stitched okay I'll show you guys on the minute Blake stitch meaning that it's gonna be stitched from inside of the shoe to the outside I lost my train of thought oh we're gonna open up a little channel right here so the stitches can kind of countersink so when the leather comes down there's no hump there all right let's continue [Music] all right so basically the shoe goes right up this is called a horn she goes right on the horn and the white thread will be on the inside and the blue thread will be on the outside that's what you call a Blake stitch wait stitches basically it skiers everything tight to the soul to the footbed and then once this gets covered up be a long time before the stitches are exposed all right all right so once the stitching is done we're gonna apply a little bit of glue they use a masters all-purpose cement on most of my jobs give it maybe a couple of minutes to kind of dry and we can hammer a tail ooh she's coming along alright let's continue all right so we are at this level now we've got we open the channel we stitched it we glued it down now we're gonna do light sanding around well we already did the light sanding you guys can see the edges are nice and round okay there's no wealth on this one so you're gonna have a you know thin profile now I get asked this question a lot about bottom staining right I mean I just do whatever comes to mind I'm I don't have a set formula that I go by right so I use fiebing's dye this is red dip it in there just a little bit and then take the excess off let's see if you can back this up a little bit cuz I'm gonna spin the camera around to go to the buffer so this is just basically just kind of giving it streaks you guys can see that right now we're gonna take the dark brown same way small streaks dab that into the napkin to get the access off so it's not too much this just gives it like little dark shadows okay again there's no rhyme or reason right now we get to use a spray spray dye I know you're far from there but we're going to use the black and just kind of basically just do the edges to feather it in like you know and the shank area we're going to darken it up now it doesn't seem like much but it'll it'll get darker now you got to be careful not to spray the upper so if you hold the shot at an angle you won't get it on the uppers now there's there's a little bit of a little bit of shadows on the edges in the shank area right and we come over here this is basically you can use any color you want this is a shoe cream we're gonna use red again any color you can you can do you want to do you can do I know some people say it's a waste of time to do the bottoms they're only gonna walk on it one time and it's gone who cares I don't really care now we get to come to the buffer put a little bit more cream on there just poof it now you want it more shinier you can add a little bit of wax continuing to buff it until it gets nice and shiny that's it on the buffer now that's gonna get a lot shinier once you put a little wax and conditioners on it but you get the idea all right let's continue all right we are last leg of our journey so we're gonna do now these buckles horse bits whatever want to call them I'm gonna take a triple zero steel wool and just clean them up I mean they do corrode over time not corrode but let's just say good they get dirty and this really kind of brings the shine back I can pick these up at your hardware store triple zero steelwill they make the they make finer ones I guess quadruple zero four zeros I don't know just a little bit of wiping these down gives it a nice shine all right put these rings back on and we're gonna squeeze them with some pliers which have some leather pieces so it doesn't scratch up the metal now once this gets done I want to coat the last last colloidal conditioners on it because this went through I don't know maybe three three coats of conditioners so because it got dyed and cleaning and dyed and the cleaning and dyed sanded so a lot of moisture came out of the leather you got to replenish those back it's not too bad just got to give it a nice moisturizing and maybe a little bit of wax to shine all right let's continue you all right welcome back we are done with another project you guys remember the toes on these right big difference so basically you guys saw me do the full song he'll blind stitched dovetail heels and somewhat of a dye job on the bottom it was rather quick but you get you know you get the gist of it it's not it's not that difficult that's it's pretty it's pretty easy to do the uppers were in pretty bad shape I think the uppers were worse to me than the bottoms were even though the footbed had holes in it this was the original footbed that got removed too it's the other shoe now it had a three-quarter length sock liner I replaced it with a full full leather sock liner that's a new piece that goes all the way through the toes now this was a glued on construction okay it wasn't stitched so now being stitched it's gonna make it more structurally better than what it was that wouldn't have held if it was just a glue job probably would have but over time of the shoe flexing at this point it always tends to come loose okay now with the stitched soles it's not gonna come loose that easily I think it'll be much more durable than what it was now I think this gentleman is was basically wearing it barefoot that's why I think the leather deteriorated a bit because sweat has salt in it and over time you wear it like that it's just gonna get wet you know dry wet dry wet dry and just going to make the leather dry rot and fall apart now this hole is not from the sweat okay it's just over wearing it I guess that was his favorite shoes but you can't wear the shoes like this it's not good for your feet and it's just not it's just not good for the shoe and they're good beautiful quality leather shoes if you maintain them you take care of them they'll last you a lot longer then if you're doing obviously so and I think what else I think that's it I think overall they turned out very nice these are the round edges I was telling you guys about the trimmer blades basically there's different shapes and different styles this particular one is around this doesn't have a welt on it okay it's blake stitch like we talked about the back piece got replaced there we called that the top line that's almost like a it's almost like a french binding that's what it's called it's stitched and rolled over and stitched again I think if you didn't tell anybody that was replaced they wouldn't know it was it was done now this job was for 95 almost five hundred dollars okay now when you when you think about it that's a lot of work for that for this type of a shoe and and the price is basically the amount of time and the difficulty in the job that I do that's how I price things now you're going to get people saying oh you should have bought a new pair of shoes you know that doesn't even come to consideration when we're doing jobs like this most of the restorations I do or repairs whatever you want to call it they are sentimental value items to the customer and buying new ones doesn't come into play yeah you could have probably bought one for sale for cheaper than what he's gonna spend to get it done but that's not the point the point is that we bring them back to their former glory if not better than their former glory and they can still keep it where for many seasons to come and if something is not worth repairing or spending the time and money then I'll be the first one to tell the customer hey you know what it's not a good idea and I've done that plenty of times plenty of times last week I did it about three times so sometimes you got to kind of take control the situation saying that you know if you're gonna put the money into it and I'm gonna put the time into it I want it to last for many seasons to come so you can enjoy it if it doesn't then don't waste your money put it towards another pair or another bag or whatever the situation is okay well thank you for joining me I appreciate it and share comment give me thumbs up what else subscribe okay we'd glad you if I can talk it's it's long it's been a long day I'm glad see I can't talk anymore I appreciate it that you guys do all that and I love the comments good bad ugly I'll take it all it doesn't matter all right we'll see you guys again the next project take care

Channel: Bedo's Leatherworks LLC

Views: 1,333,885

Rating: 4.8500338 out of 5

Keywords: detailed shoe repair, repair, steve, doudaklian, bedos, leatherworks, shoe restoration, leather goods, leather restoration, allen edmonds, louis vuittion, gucci, tom ford, christian louboutin, mens style, men shoes, john lobb, fancy soles, fancy soles john lobb, jr soles, blind stitch, shoe repair, leather, leather work, style, fashion, new age, cobbler, craftsmen, custom work, walkthrough, remade, shoe sale, mens fashion, church shoes, GUCCI, TLC, Abused, hole in shoe, shoe shine

Id: oApM6Ci4iB8

Length: 47min 31sec (2851 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 18 2020