Bad Repair on an Allen Edmonds McGregor

hello this is steve from bedo's leatherworks today's project is this well-worn allen edmonds mcgregor model now it's been beat up a little bit but it's the customer's favorite shoes that's been repaired before probably a few times now these aren't that expensive models i think you can get them for like under 200.00 um what we're doing today basically we're going to remove the full soul and heal remove the welt clean up the uppers as best as possible but not to change much from the uppers the customer doesn't want the upwards to change i guess he likes that you know that that patina that it's taken on over the years however we are going to clean them up and then kind of condition them up and and put some cream on them but not really dye them to make them look the best as possible we want to still keep that patina now it's been repaired before you can see it's been half sold it hasn't been stitched because i have a feeling that the welt somebody did something to the welt they couldn't stitch it on there i mean it's just it's just really bad repair you see how right there on the sole it's been scratched sanded i should say now when you're when you put a top lift on and you go to sand the breast of the heels that's what it's called this is a breast cone sanding machine right so you go like that and you sand it but you're not supposed to sand the sole i mean that they sanded the hell out of the sole that's just you just don't do that you know half sold it's just it's just not a very good job unfortunately so you know once i took a look at it i said well there's definitely issues with the wealth because i can tell that somebody's really butchered it up where i have to come in and replace the whole well which is an extra cost if you're if you're careful when you repair it that you know that you don't mess up the wealth you can repair this replace the sole you know three four or five times sometimes okay but if you're careless then you damage the welt then it's going to come to me then i've got to replace everything then the customer is going to spend well over 300 dollars for for me to do what i got to do we're not going to do jr souls today we're going to do house leather so we decided to save some of the money to put towards what's necessity so we're going to do house leather we're going to do vibram heels and then clean and condition the helpers all right let's get started you're going to see a lot of this throughout my video well how else am i going to get you guys to subscribe and and to hit the bell notification and then the thumbs up and all that's good stuff you know subliminal messages nah it's frightening your face messages sometimes you just just kind of get a rough start in the mornings you know it's one of those mornings we're going to replace the base now the customer didn't want to go full full restoration which is fine i mean we're doing a lot to it anyway you know full leather soles and heels and welt replaced they'll give a good base for it to last for many many years to come i just don't understand some of these some of these guys will repair shoes that they really they really mess up you know i just don't get it maybe they're just into it for that one one repair and that's it you know we shouldn't be like that i mean you want to repeat customer you want to keep them satisfied you know you want to do the best possible you can so the customers will come back anyway at the each is down so they put a little bit of foam in here which is not much support at all so we'll replace that with shank is gone it's dead we'll replace that yeah there's not much welt there i can see why i didn't want to stitch it the wise man said one time not all cobblers are created equal look at this you see all that black edge dressing it's called edge dressing edge of the soles not on the shoe price sake all right let's continue all right once we've got it apart cleaned up i mean when i say cleaned up like the stitches and stuff like that clean the uppers a little bit what i'm using is a spot remover and it's a dry cleaner basically it's what it's called you want to be able to just to remove that that surface crud off the leather old polish wax dirt oh i wiped it down with a little bit of water first just to kind of remove the dust from it you know now around the toe we're going to take a very fine sandpaper and clean up some of those scratches again we're not going to make we're not going to make it look brand new but it'll look a lot better than what it is right now it's it's very difficult for me not to not to re-dye the uppers and make it look like you know close to news possible but since the customer requested that we leave that alone as much as we can so we're going to do that but still you know we got to make it look better than what it was cool remember that black side piece and mark there all that came off we still we'll still let this dry we'll give it a one more coat to try to remove whatever you know whatever's left over there all right let's continue [Music] [Music] so [Music] um okay there goes nothing so this is the welt which is that piece of leather that goes around the shoe that the sole is stitched onto now the older allen edmond we'll have smaller spaced stitches than a new newer allen edmonds now to me closer the stitches are the tighter you can get them onto the shoe you can't you can't make them too too small too close together or else you're gonna you know put too many holes in the welt if it's too close together it's not going to work but if it's too far it's not it's not good for it and sometimes the thread gets tangled while you're videotaping okay come on now if i try to do that it wouldn't work okay so basically we're going to follow the same stitch hole pattern so what we got this is a this is a stretch concoction where it's half of um oh lord i'm having a hard time speaking today it's a mixture of rubbing alcohol and water combined basically it softens the leather so we can poke holes into it and stitch it this is called a jerk needle that's a no i keep saying this every time i do this kind of job it's not a jerk holding a needle although some people have called me worse which is okay so it's a needle with a hook at the end okay basically you poke the hole through the you poke the hole through the what you will call it through the welt and into the hole of the shoe through that gaming that material that fabric is glued onto the footbed it's called the gaming and then once you pull it through you loop it like that you run the other thread through the loop and then you pull that loop back what you have here is two pieces like that intertwined and you try to have that in the center of the leather the shoe and the gaming if you pull too much one way it's not going to work or the other way i usually wear some sort of a leather wrap on my finger so if my fingers don't hurt after a while well i'm a glutton for punishment i guess it's okay part of the job and we'll go all the way around all the way around the shoe and stitch the welt on the shoe this way it'll be nice and new wilt and once the new soles wear down the customer can get a replaced well if it's done properly i guess many many times there's a notch right here if you guys can see it let me see if i can show it to you let's see see that right there and see that right there basically that is when whoever repaired this when they removed the leather front part there for half soul and they were sanding this area down they just sanded the hell out of the leather like that and that's the area for from the sander so it's almost well it is up to the uppers but you see it's not too far up you're not even supposed to touch that when you're sanding for a half soul job unbelievable man i mean if he didn't go a little bit more then he would have sanded right into the uppers what the hell are you thinking about really god oh i can hear the comments now hey man don't be talking about other companies like that that's not nice well maybe they should learn how to repair shoes and i wouldn't talk yeah yeah yeah that's the ticket mean i don't i don't like to toot my own horn but i mean i i started somewhere too you know i i wasn't i wasn't at this level from start of course not everybody has to start somewhere but that's just such a amateur sanding you know it's not good it's just not good for the shoe i just don't get it i really don't i just don't i don't do have souls i mean i shouldn't say that i made you 9.9 full souls and that .01 0.10 whatever half so very rarely i'll do hassle majority of the time i do full soles i just think this is better for the shoe you know but unfortunately at times if the heel is in good shape you know i would i would say okay you know what maybe this time like or if we just replace the heel on a on a shoe and then the soul wore out most of the time i'll do okay well we'll do half so but rarely really i'll see them i mean you could do a hassle just do it properly you know all right ladies and gentlemen i'm going to fast forward the rest you got the idea how to sew welt on now sometimes some some shoemakers well not just shoemakers some some repair guys also will use two needles right and all and all is basically all right let me see this is an awl okay awl and then what they'll do is they'll go in okay they'll dip it onto the wax like that this is a very old one it broke on me unfortunately i've got to fix it so i'm just going to show you as a you know sample so they'll dip it in wax or they'll dip it into the beeswax not wax wax like melted wax and they'll go from the inside where the gaming is okay poke right through there and then take a needle needle two needles come across like this and then pull it i think it's called the saddle stitch there's you know there's a few ways of doing it you know i guess most of the repair shops will use this type of method which is the jerk needle which is the jerk with the needle yeah you call me whatever you want but don't expect me to be quiet when you talk to me that way right looking good once we get here we'll go ahead and tap that down to flatten it out a little bit as you guys can see it's looking pretty good so far okay let's continue all right so at this stage we've got the welt stitched on the cork filled in with the shank underneath there a new shape not the same broken one now most of the time these allen edmond shoes have a leather footbed okay and over time that footbed conforms to the shape of the foot the foot is not the anatomy of a foot is not a flat foot it's got an arch it's got the ball of the foot where gives it that indentation so we try to keep that the same shape you don't want to change that pattern too much because then the customer is going to go through a a break-in period where it's not going to be comfortable at first okay we tend to keep those shapes of the footbed very similar to what we started with so you don't want to change that too much so when he puts it on they're all nice and broken into the shape of his foot okay now most of the time whenever i get shoes come in if they are used shoes okay which means that you know the they bought it from a previous owner okay and um what i'll do then basically is that we wet the footbed and we put them in presses where we can flatten that footbed down as best as possible won't be brand new it's not new unless you replace the footbed but we'll wet it and we'll flatten that down and this way when the person receives it he'll make his own impression on that on that footbed so depending on if it's the customer's footbed shape we leave it very similar if it's not then we try to change that a little bit to flatten that out so the new customer can make his own impression all right let's continue you all know what time it is [Laughter] oh lordy lordy nobody i cracked myself [Music] up [Music] all right make sure that label is in the center there we're gonna do that okay cool perfect okay looky here all right okay for those of you who are saying put some oil on this that's that's not the point the point is i don't like this to turn this is not this is not the one i use boy this suckers are heavy there's supposed to be a lock here you guys see that screw hole supposed to be a lock there one of these days i'm going to find a bolt to bolt that in there so this doesn't turn i don't like the fact that it turns not that i need to oil it up if i oil it up it's going to turn on me more that defeats the purpose of that now some guys like it to turn i i don't it's just it's just a preference you know just it it's so it annoys me when it's loose when i'm trying to hammer it on cool she's looking good now the uppers have have kind of you know transformed a little bit because i put some conditioners and cream polish i sanded the toe a little bit you can still see the scars but it's better it's presentable and it doesn't want to help us to change much so it can't really do much to it all right let's continue now somebody was asking about about this crack right here you guys see that crack this is basically made out of fiberglass right it's it's just the cover to hide all that detail in there now when i was about 17 or 18 um i worked for a for a guy in in alexandria virginia italian guy who ran the shop with his 95 year old italian mother now this woman would drive her son crazy i mean crazy to a point where there would be in a bloody screaming match every single day this crack okay came from a hammer beaten on the machine when he was so upset at his mother because she was driving him crazy anyway fast forward a few years the shop closed down and i bought this machine because i love this machine because this is a it's a beautiful machine luckily there was no other damage on here there's a there's a little there's a little thing right here or the bobbin holder where i've got a basically it's a um it's a um eyelet setter you guys see that because it was missing a bolt there so basically i found this one that fitted perfectly and i've had it in there for many years to come now i just have to get it back in there of course it won't go back in now anyway so that fits in there perfectly so other than that this machine is is incredible all right let's show how incredible this is hopefully it won't mess it up while i'm recording all right so hold on somebody's at the door all right so you guys can see this looks pretty good blue thread nice new machine nice new thread on the weld it's nice all right let's continue all right so this is a trimmer blade one 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 blades okay this is what we trimmed the edges of the soles with now if you look here see that little line right there that little line leaves a pattern on the edge of the sole okay i call that a little lip at the edge of the sole it's right here on the edge now most guys what they'll do is they'll sand the edge right here when they refinish the edges of the soles i don't do it that way i trim it like this when i trim it it leaves that little lip there now when i go to ironing the edges basically heat ironing the heating iron has the same pattern as the trimmer blade so when it gets done it's really nice smooth with a little lip on the edge now these suckers are sharp okay so you got to be careful especially like when you're going around the toe right here if you're not holding the shoe right it will catch the shoe and slam it right into the back of the machine there and ruin the toe of the the shoe not not the uppers of the shoe but the soul and the wealth so you got to be really careful all right let's get started loud music loud music loud noise coming up [Music] just like that i don't know if you guys can tell that little lip on the edge i'll show you guys once it gets burnished all right let's continue now we put a new heel base on it is a fiberboard heel base exactly the same as the original heel base i get it from the same company that sells it and makes it town edmonds i'm kind of you know on the fence about using fiberboard compared to a leather stacked heel base i don't know sometimes it's okay to use these sometimes it's not now what i'm doing here i'm cleaning the surface of the rubber okay just to remove the the dirt and the dust because i want basically this to connect that here good so there's no issues of the top lift coming off now the cool thing about allen edmond heel bases that it gives it a little bit of arch support believe it or not and right on the inside part of the heel if you look at it at this angle you see right here this side is higher than this side that being a little higher gives it arch support right there okay it's very cool now can i duplicate that on the leather stacked heel base of course you can't that's not a problem but you know what sometimes when the budget is is not a full full restoration then we'll tend to use the fiberboard heel bases rather than the stacked leather when you're looking at it from the side you really can't tell that much whether it's stacked leather or stacked fiberboard okay all right let's continue so so all right welcome back we are done with another project i think they turned out pretty good i mean still got some scuff marks at the toe or some gashes in there i sanded it as best as i could for what i wanted you know what the customer wanted me to do with it i think it turned out pretty good nice little marks patterns on the sole little details vibrant heels of course full welt replacement i mean they turn out pretty good i like them i kind of like the color i'm kind of glad we left it as is you know customers going to get many years of work out of these and plus they're broken in now all right well thank you so much for joining me i appreciate it um once again um if you haven't subscribed please do so that helps me greatly believe it or not you know that your subscription to my channel gives me a couple of dollars at the end of the month for advertising and um and you know it helps out believe it or not i don't sell merchandise or or anything like that and um and that subscription that you hit click that helps you know me continue what i love to do um all right so if you guys have any questions please give me an email b-e-d-o-s yahoo.com and um thank you for joining me i appreciate it we'll see you guys on the next project take care

Channel: Bedo's Leatherworks LLC

Views: 74,207

Keywords: shoe repair, shoe restoration, shoe recrafting, dress shoe repair, dress shoe restration, bag restoration, leather goods, leather restoration, allen edmonds, louis vuittion, gucci, tom ford, christian louboutin, mens style, men shoes, john lobb, soles, fancy soles, fancy soles john lobb, jr soles, blind stitch, leather, leather work, style, fashion, new age, cobbler, craftsmen, artist, custom work, walkthrough, remade, shoe, shoe shop, shoe sale, mens fashion, church shoes, AE

Id: ob5f6ju9qho

Length: 32min 31sec (1951 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 03 2020