Creating a “SpadeSole”

hello this is Steve from betos leather works and today's project is these beautiful iconic Allen Edmonds strands now you may ask yourself why are we fixing a brand new shoe that's in such great shape it's little it's brand new these belong to gentleman by the name of Preston Soto who is also the elegant Oxford you may want to look him up on youtube if you don't he already know him he does shoeshine tutorials and this is a very good job on on bringing the shoes back to what they're supposed to be or better than what they're supposed to be this one has been done by him also okay now what we're gonna do is we're going to do a full solid heel a full wealth replacement but we're going to change the style of the shoe ok now this shoe is probably from the 40s maybe earlier it's got what's called a spade sole you see that shape right there that's what you call Spade sole heels a little bit almost like a Cuban heels what it's call it's kind of slanted a little bit now this is this is extreme well it can get extreme err on the side here more of a more of a sharper edge this one here is from I would say maybe from the 60s this is a Stetson I think it's a Stetson and again it's got somewhat of a spade sole right there this is a blind stitched I think most of them are now this one is not blind stitched you can do whatever you like this is a Florsheim that I did which convert it into a spade sole okay this is an open channel stitch thought stitched so this is what we're gonna do something similar to this to these strands because the quality of these shoes believe it or not or superior to a lot on the market today yes if you have them bespoke made you can have that quality very similar to these okay the earlier shoes thirties fifties had a at a pretty decent quality made in America shoes but you don't find that anymore unfortunately you're not gonna find something off the shelf that's like this that is made in the USA it just doesn't happen so what we're going to do here we're going to convert this since the uppers are an awesome shape we're going to convert the soles into a similar job like that now the Allen Edmonds has a 360-degree wealth which is all the way around and none of these do none of these have that have a juice to 70 to 80 to 70 I don't even know my degrees anymore it stops right here by the heel so once we remove all that we're gonna have to convert that welt into to 207 degree well it's gonna be kind of difficult to do because structurally it wasn't made for that so we're gonna have to change some things around on the back to make it look like that we're gonna raise the heel a little bit okay not too much I'm not gonna be able to you know to do that okay the shoe is just not made for that so when when shoes are being made when they're for certain height everything is dictated to the shape of the last which is for a higher heel shoe you can't just say okay I'm going to add you know an inch and a half like a Cuban heel on these it's just not going to look right however we can raise that up a little bit to a certain point still make a look decent presentable and the customer will be able to wear it other than that we're not going to do much for the uppers I'm sure we're gonna might get a dirty here and there but we'll clean that out and Preston is known for his mere shine toes now if I if I had messed that up I'm gonna leave that up to him so he can redo that over maybe I'll touch it up a little bit for him but but he doesn't much better than I do so with that note and I think I think this is going to be I don't think it's a challenging maybe a little challenging but it's just a little bit of a degree of difficulty changing structurally from a 360 well to 270 well okay but I think overall I think I should go very well and I think it'll look good it's already done in my head oh okay just for you guys people who are new to the channel my handshake I've been shaking since I was 10 years old I don't have any diseases Alzheimer's or steal though I can't remember what the other one was anyway Parkinson's I don't have that okay I don't know why shake but what I have coffee or I get tired sometimes I shake a lot so enough with the a man you're interested I know I know that all right but I appreciate your concern really I do all right so let's get started there it goes nothing you know I wish I could play some smooth jazz for you guys while I'm working people always get nervous on them cutting something voila this is easy Zach okay this is a new shoe no it's good which I'm gonna replace with a metal shank that's not a noise this is annoying you guys remember what that's from mm-hmm I bet you don't I'll see if I can remember it at the end of the day to let you know what that movie was from what that saying was from you all right so we've got the wealth all made that Hilda will tone and when we go to redo the wealth we're going to basically put in the same holes as what we have okay now this basically is here this is called the gaming right the gaming is just basically a piece of material that's glued to the foot bed this is the foot bed let you step on hence foot bed and then the uppers come with the lining along with the welt and you get stitched together now this is a 360 welt like we discussed earlier the other one is the wealth stops right there so we have to do we have to get rid of the gaming that's here so we can take the uppers and fold it in and to put a heel ran heel ran is just a piece of leather that goes on top there okay but the problem is that with this style with the Goodyear style the uppers aren't as long to fold it over like it is on a 270-degree well shoes so we're gonna have to figure out after we remove this Rand he remove the gamming to figure out how do we gonna fold the uppers in far enough so we can put that on top it all makes sense a little later I'll explain to you guys alright let's continue okay alright that is the gaming right there see that looks like dentures alright so now this is what I was talking about right okay let's get rid of some of these stubborn stitches here now there's little staples here if you guys can see them okay see that right there they staple the uppers together on the gaming and the uppers together so they can stitch the wealth on those staples are pain in the front man they're heõs okay now we're gonna have to do some thinking as far as how we're going to fold this inward like that because you've got you've got the uppers all right let's take a look you've got the uppers you've got the heel counter which is that stiffener and then you've got the lining so three layers maybe more trying to see if we can fold that over we'll figure something out all right let's continue all right it's getting there let's continue okay so you guys get the idea right now the problem is you can't pull these uppers too far in because it changes this height here yeah you don't want to change that that's it's going to look at the form than if you do that so basically we heated this area up and reform that hammered it down yeah we're going to have lots of hammer time in this video and then we put these nails in there securing that to the footbed now that creates another problem see the nails well allen edmonds are known for having a footbed with no nails in it right but unfortunately when you're changing the style like this you can't hide those nails they've got to come to the footbed once they come through the footbed and it gets it hits the metal laughs it cinches it back down it secures it together okay now after everything is said and done we're going to be making him a leather insole because I bought up on more nails through it because once the heel block comes on you've got to secure the heel block with the nails from the inside of the shoe what the other one when it's got a welt all the way around you don't have to secure it from the inside of the shoe because the sole is stitched to the welds okay I hope you guys are keeping up all right let's continue this is our welt comes in a roll you rough measure it and you couldn't now sometimes I'm I die these shoes black you know or whatever color wanna do this particular shoot we're going to keep the same color as what it is and we're going to put light color stitches on there just like that alright let's continue you [Music] now the shank is a little bit more curved than the original right because we're going to raise the heel a little bit and this shank will kind of help making the heel a little higher and giving the shape of the shoe part of the arch a little more curved so we can raise the heel look a little bit like it's supposed to have been that high basically gives it that curve around the arch you can piecemeal the Cork's in it doesn't have to you don't have to do all one piece sometimes cut it a little too small you just have to make it work manufacturers use a hot cork it's like putty basically just kind of use that with the machine and peanut butter they kind of put it together now I'm going to fill this in here on the sides on the sides of the machine just so what happens we don't want to have any high spots when you go ahead and put the shoe on I'm gonna took the wrong side out let's take the shank sizer you're basically just filling in the void on the sides of the shank so it's even then we're gonna put the heel around right on top sandesh down a little bit [Music] [Music] and once the heel rain comes on top of that it'll be nice and even if pressure is applied from the inside like your your heel pressure this is the heel Rand piece of leather some manufactures we use plastic sometimes it's a rubber but we're gonna do a little leather Preston deserves a better than plastic already all right so we're getting there as you guys can see now what we gonna do give that a minute to dry and we're going to basically give this give this welt a little bit of shape of a speacial now everything stays the same foot wise on the inside make the toes a little bit point here take from the sides here I bring this shank half the wealth size right there you guys can see you'll see it all this I couldn't alright let's continue alright we are getting there slowly but surely we've got the heel Rand on shank or quilt now it's ready for gluing the soles on gr soles of course we're going to do blind stitch on this one I still have to put some stampings on there before I blew it I'll be ready to assemble it the pack together alright such a beautiful day outside you guys hear - bird chirping I'm sure if this microphone will pick up the sounds you know what I think I'm gonna take a couple of hours off go home have lunch with the family maybe maybe I'll show you guys my car it's a good idea alright I'm taking a couple hours off that's it alright let's continue welcome to Falls Church Virginia this is our little town these are Maine mainstream speed limits 25 if you go 26 they'll ticket you this is like Mayberry you guys were Mayberry yeah The Andy Griffith Show I know I'm showing my age [Music] and right in between these tall buildings is my shop a lot of people out here even though our governor said it's not mandatory to stay home but most businesses are closed between these two buildings right here's my business [Music] [Music] I get the park in the back man that was fun yes it was a little bit of fresh air you know getting out of the shop seeing the family driving the car loved driving that car but it was difficult to the video and drive at the same time you know my guy I gave you guys just a little glimpse alright y'all know what time it is it's hammer time I know I haven't been doing the hammer time in a long time huh hammer time in a long time so we decided not to do any stamping on the bottom okay customer's request it's okay now I took my clip-on mic with me so I can record it in the car while I was driving it and I forgot it in my truck at home so I don't have my I don't have my my clip-on mic so the video the audio might be a little different nice very very nice I like these shoes just pushing the welt down to the to the sole so I hope everybody's doing okay out there I know these are crazy times man just it's just hard to believe that we're going through what we're going through life as we know it just not gonna be the same that's just isn't all right so now we get to put this in a press to press that down a little bit so you're all gonna hear some compression noise all right don't complain you guys should be used to by now I fix my compressor everyday okay every single day unplug it and it's fixed and here too I can hear the hate mail or hate comments already your compressors broken the bow as I was saying I hope you guys are all safe be careful please wash your hands wear your masks so you can get used to not touching your face and your nose and your eyes and just be safe around people I mean that's all it is if you see somebody sick sneezing coughing don't get around them and wash your hands we're outside when you coming home wash your hands that's really about it social distancing as they call it do that if you have to you my business is shut down but I'm still working and four people wanted to pick up I meet about seven parking lot with their item the ones that are dropping off we let them know just you know come to the counter leave your stuff in we go ahead and spray it down and put it aside same with boxes that are coming shipping in basically just just spray it down before you touch it and then just keep our fingers crossed I mean what more what more can we do you know this is crazy times and we're very limited of knowledge of what is actually going on you know so just clean up don't touch your face as much at all if you can and we're a mess when you're outside all right let's continue all right so as you guys can see we are coming along just fine we did their rough trim that's what we call Spade soul I don't know why they call it a space so maybe it looks like a spade I have no idea who coined that phrase Spade soul but you know what doesn't matter we're gonna we're gonna do what the customer wants all right let's continue what's up buddy how are you slowly but surely what about you huh what that that's all you can do what else you gonna read it yeah just be careful and be cautious clean up and you know yeah we're good I appreciate it okay I'll see you it's my tenant upstairs now I could have gone with a free made tip but why when we have actual brass not brass plated but brass you hear me brass okay so we have to come up with some sort of a some sort of a look for her Preston's tip again we can do something you know regular but I don't like regular things like different things you know something out of the ordinary all right something like that not exactly that's something like that something different all right let's continue it'll be a surprise don't worry next time you'll see it that'll be on the shoe [Music] and this has got to be precise so it doesn't leave any gaps where the or the metal and leather meet so it needs a little bit of adjustment see there's a little gap right here this is good so what happens is that if I bring this Alou to hear more it's going to push that point in this way I know close that gap just the hair well I guess I can't hide the shape of the tip from you guys because I got to do the blind snitch now all right here's the here's the French tip it's a rough cut okay be patient longer just like that just like that Nikita sometimes well actually you know what what I wanted to do I wanted to engrave the elegant Oxford across across here right and look at Oxford or this way that way whatever problem is that you know all everybody's closed you know I've got friends in the business family in the business who are jewelers could have engraved it for me I mean I guess they could have opened up for me if I really wanted them to but we're gonna pass we can always do that down the road when things get a little bit less hectic you know we always change that you know what I mean so it's not a big deal we'll figure something out now for those of you who aren't familiar with this process this is called a blind stitch basically the soul gets sliced and this stitching goes right inside that area that you opened and it covers back up and it's blind you don't see it slam whoo-hoo in there slowly but surely so Preston said he's gonna do a little video for me we should be kind of cool since I'm sharing his channel my viewers not that he needs them he's doing okay he's be kind of cool if he can share me in this channel you know very very much appreciated and she is ready to be stitched all right there she goes let's continue not too bad couple spots I'm not happy with us all right let's continue like it never happened magic I mean it's not too bad but light color stitching it's very difficult to hide the flaws you know because it's right in your face well we're gonna tint the the color down a little bit it's gonna be like a like a dark beige stitching after we apply some creams to it it's not gonna be white white but still I mean it's right there in your face can't can't hide anything you know what it'll be okay we'll figure something out all right let's continue now we're gonna create a heel base for shoe so this is a junior bend okay it's a big piece of Junior leather now even though they are is a good product always fashion say always sometimes towards the edges of the hide it's a little bit soft not too soft but not as rough it not as them dense as the rest of it right so this is the perfect opportunity to make heel bases out of those those areas so we're going to need four per shoe so eight too little one two three four five six seven and we'll get one more from that corner over there so we're gonna stack these on top of each other give it some shape and put the top left on finish the breast to the breast is basically the inside of the healer here and then attach it to the shoe yeah I did I put some nail polish on mine blew my cover no all right so it turns out that we needed two more pieces two more layers to the heel block I forgot to mention to you guys that we're using ladies junior so that's why they're so thin so one kind of the we wanted to kind of stand of the period of the thin layers of heel blah you know heel base some of the original one is a very we got that going and then we're gonna do one more layer for the top lift there should be plenty high it's gonna be higher then it's gonna be higher than what it was originally we knew that it was gonna be higher than a tall Netherlands a heel no I'm not gonna hit my thumb I know you guys are asking that we're thinking it anyway that doesn't mean I haven't done it before I've learned not to do it again that's right does happen sometimes your mind wanders off when you're working and all of a sudden no I'm not gonna do it just entertain you guys you're crazy I loves my thumb how else am I gonna go let's continue if I don't have a thumb I'll let's continue that's not gonna work all right let's continue so we've got the heel blocks so I figured maybe would be a would be a pretty cool idea if I did a combination heel leather and rubber and tried to see if I can mimic that pattern of the toe plate for a rubber piece like that now cool so this is ready to be glued on a shoe and nailed together and this one is just about to come together now these are all they're all cut for I mean they don't come like this I have to make templates and cut them and make sure there's no gaps between the heels I mean when I say heels the two pieces belong together wow this was a this was a long journey let me tell you right now that there that I know that I mean I didn't show every detail I'm like goodness mammal a lot going on with this shoe we're almost there once we once we hammer it on nail it on from the inside of the shoe trim the sides finish the sides the last thing will be is the sand the smooth and then put some brass tacks in there make it look good you so welcome back we're finally done with another project man this one took me a little longer than I thought I kind of planned well I did take couple hours off and then went off and messed around it's a beautiful shoes that's a total different shoe now now this particular one yeah this is a little bit uneven you guys see this side is a little smaller than that side yeah this one I made a little bit of mistake on but but other than that everything turned out fine this one's pretty good I like that brass tip custom made by Beatles leather works anyway I still have to put the insoles in and I will eventually well tomorrow just wanted to kind of finish this job and get it done space all turned out pretty good and blind stage you can't see the stitch career this is a broken glass finisher and I think that's what it's called broke glass cuts got shattered put his initials there PS presto so dough got some brass nails on the heel overall I think it turned out pretty good we raised the heel a little bit as you guys can tell that's not an L and then the heels anymore and I think it just kind of suits the shoe a little better with that spade sole there and having that heel like that overall I think they're not pretty good well I want to thank you guys very much for joining me I really appreciate it and I hope everybody's safe as possible now if you could there's a lot of cobblers out there who are kind of in need of a little bit of help I'm one of the lucky ones where I've got my backlog work that'll keep me busy for a little while but if there's a local cobbler near you guys that you guys can maybe reach out some of them are doing gift certificates right so this way the cash flow kind of comes in and helps them out with them and their families put food on the table and you've done a good deed to your community and there's a lot of guys out there who would love the fact that you know you you can reach out to them and work something out and and see if you can do that I think that would be greatly appreciated if you could so if you have any questions you can email me at betos at yahoo.com now I haven't I haven't been checking my email that regularly lately but I will if you've sent me something in the past I promise I'll get to it soon sooner or later I will get to it she's been a little hectic me even though the shop was closed we still have work to be done a lot to get to be done you know with with our schedule okay I do take mail-in orders this is for the elegant Oxford Preston Soto is his name he's in California San Diego area and if you have anything you want to mail to me please email me first do not send you know box it up and ship it because sometimes I get stuff in I don't know who it belongs to okay and it's just gonna delay the project and it's just going to sit on the shelf to collect dust so if you have any questions about a job particularly job just email me and we'll correspond and then we'll figure something out all right don't forget to subscribe give me thumbs up hit the like button the bell button I don't know if there's anything else anyway so thanks again I appreciate you getting to joining me be safe I'll see you guys on the next project take care [Music]

Channel: Bedo's Leatherworks LLC

Views: 109,649

Rating: 4.9348602 out of 5

Keywords: doudaklian, leatherworks, boots, alteration, leather, restoration, riding boots, bedos, repair, bedo, steve, detailed shoe repair, shoe restoration, leather goods, leather restoration, allen edmonds, men style, style, fashion, designer, woman style, designer shoe, designer shoe repair, Gazizno & Gerling, mens fashion, womans fashion, mens style, womans style, shoe shine, mirror shine, fashion & style, style & fashion, shoe fashion, cobbler, shoe crafting, shoe maker, shoe, spade sole, AE

Id: IDDaVJTzmOA

Length: 55min 25sec (3325 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 06 2020