3D Printing Zero's Mask - CODE GEASS Lelouch of the Re;surrection - Funimation

these are all of my 3d printed pieces of zeros mask from Code Geass these are all done on FTM printers at about 0.2 millimeter layer height and it took a while to print it took about well actually why don't you guess let me know how many hours of 3d printing you think all of this took let me know down in the comments all right let's get to the build this video is brought to you by Funimation and their new movie Code Geass Lelouch of the Resurrection in select theaters starting May 5th hey there fellow maker you've got bill here today in the shop and today we're making an epic mask for our friends at Funimation to help them promote their new movie Code Geass Lelouch of the resurrection I've got zeros mask and I 3d printed a whole bunch of parts but a lot of work went into getting us this far so why don't I give you a look into what it took to get these parts ready here's the 3d model I made of zeros mask I modeled all of it around this 3d scan of my own head that way I knew it would fit me if you don't have a scan of your head you can make one using make humans free software give it the dimensions of your head and it'll pop out a model that should be the right size for a look at modeling a helmet yourself I'll have links to some really good tutorials down in the description this helmet was built in several pieces that way I could split it apart for printing the visor was in two parts and you can see all the seams between all of the different panels each of these parts has a flat side on it and that's the side that would be laying against the print bed I also included some holes to act as registration for later when these prints are getting glued together I design a mechanism for the inside of the back to dome parts so that one could rotate her on the other which could then rotate around the inside of the frame just like that this mechanism was made to replicate the way the back of this mask opens and closes when the wearer is putting it on finally on the inside you can see I added these loops here these are to attach strips of elastic for later when I need to fit this thing on mine and with all my 3d files ready to go I could send them over to my slicing software and start printing all of these parts were printed in ABS plastic I prefer ABS because it's a lot easier to sand than most PL A's and I printed everything on my ulta maker except for a couple of parts that I did on my lulzbot mini and the parts came out pretty good in total it took about 102 hours to print all of these parts again at 0.2 millimeter layer height for most of them a huge portion of that was this visor this is gonna be our vacuform visor buck it took 22 hours to print at 0.2 millimeter layer height and it is about 30% infill and it has many shells on it to hopefully make the outside durable and resilient to heat I really want to rush and glue everything together but before that I do think I should probably start sanding this a little bit before it's all put together it will just be easier to get it parts when I'm not manhandling a whole helmet so I've got all of my sanding supplies right here so that I can start taking care of these layer lines and making it all nice and smooth I guess that means it's time for an epic sanding montage [Music] [Music] [Music] you never see footage of people standing where they look like they're having a good time who is always so serious actually [Music] that concludes round 1 of sanding we'll have plenty more to do later but along with the help of Brittany behind the camera we got everything sanded down to a hundred grit and we've mostly knocked away all of the layer lines the vacuum forming buck this is going to be the visor that will pull plastic over this got hit with filler primer and then sanded and wet sanded down to 800 grit and I think that's gonna be good enough but that's gonna be more work for later now the rest of these helmet parts need to be put together I have some ideas I think it's gonna work out really well I designed these parts they're gonna go together like this but I designed them with registration holes and I modelled those in and they were printed in the model but they're probably not the right size so I got a drill bit so I can drill them out to fit the pegs I'm gonna put in there I've got these little pegs these are little metal bits they're actually finishing nails and I use the grinding cutoff wheel to cut them into little segments and these will provide registration in those holes so that when I glue them all together they will be in the correct spot so that'll get glued in there and I'll do that all along that edge and then all along that edge there so the first thing I need to do is go over all of these parts and drill out all those little holes so that I'm ready for all my pegs now I can glue in one side worth of pegs I need to make sure I put everything together in an order that makes sense you know now these are gonna provide registration but also a little bit of strength along this seam that will be glued together but this will give it more than just glue to hold it together it should help make sure that it's nice and strong so that's one side and that'll lock into this other side cool so that's held together just by those pegs I will obviously glue it but pull it apart put some glue on it we live together just using superglue for this if you needed more time you could use like a five minute epoxy but this seems like it'll work really well got the two halves each put together and now these are gonna go together as well and I had to go and widen some of these a bit with that drill bit but I think we got everything to go together yeah look at that just like so a little bit of a gap there we'll fix all of that I think I can just run glue down there from the back and we'll be okay that is the back dome of the helmet and it should be able to rotate on these axes here some parts of this mask are actually a bit thinner than the one I just did so you can see I did model in those little registration holes but it's so thin that it's actually poking through on some points so instead of drilling it like I had before I'm gonna use a thin piece of metal I'm guessing steel then I got from the hardware store a million years ago and I'm gonna cut a slot in there so that I can go in in the same spot right there and the kind of slot using a rotary tool and my cutoff wheel turn off the extra once it's cooled I'll just use my snips here to cut off a little piece or a couple of them and then these can go in the slots I just made and serve a very similar purpose to those rods I was using earlier so that'll go I'll cut the same slots in there do the same thing so again just using more superglue I'm gonna glue these in on one side with this stuff and it's also glued to my finger yeah that's not too bad all right cool left a little a little skin on the back of that but we're okay that feels nice and strong too and again just like the other piece we'll come back and fix this seam up so you can see it so I'm going to do that on the rest of the pieces I have over there and then we can work on the next step [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all our pieces are together now so I can finally test fit all these parts I designed these hinges so that this should be able to rotate a little bit was actually I know this isn't invented by Colin Furze but I saw him do a similar thing with this round shield where these pins can only let it rotate so far and this one will go in a similar space like that there we go it can rotate open so you can put your head in and it can rotate closed a 3d model just to fit on my head and I'm pretty sure it will fit but you don't really know until you try so check it out huh and then this is a big relief it all seems to fit and it doesn't hurt my ears or anything I'll put some foam in here to keep it properly situated but that'll be like the last thing we do for now I'm gonna have to work on making this thing look really pretty this part needs to be attached as well like right there but I'm gonna wait until later because I gotta work on all these seams and if I'm working with this thing dangling there I'm gonna break it off I'm sure of it so I'll hold this until later our visor buck should fit in there really well too so let's give that a test fit so that will go in there and I made this a little bit smaller so that the thickness of the plastic should be take up the gap between it and then this part will go there's gonna be a screw hole on the back of it and that's right there so that's what we're looking at right there eventually and it all looks like it wants to fit which is a very very good thing we've got everything set up for the vacuum forming for our visor the buck is here on this sort of smaller platen this is actually the the platen I built to pull space visors in for Adam Savage's aces helmet we've retrofitted it with a new top so it's a little bit smaller for our thing here our oven is preheating right now and I have a sheet of plastic this is ptg it's about an eighth of an inch thick or roughly three millimeters I'm gonna throw it on there heat it up and hopefully get ourselves a visor heat okay cool here we go vacuum it's pretty good this seems to have worked as long as we can pop that out of there still a little warm so I'm gonna let it cool down then we'll pull it out that is really in there there it goes I came right out it's a little cloudy in there but I bet if we polish that up we'll be good I can definitely see through it just fine oh right time to cut away all this excess plastic [Applause] all that work all that work wait all that work for this tiny little piece of plastic moment of truth and it's pretty damn close that looks looks pretty good you guys again this is all conceptual on the 3d computer machine until now and everything seems to be fitting together which is a huge relief so that's that's great I'm gonna call it for today and go have a beer our visor is ready for the next step we're gonna hold off on that for a little bit and deal with the seams on all of our 3d printed parts where I glued them together now I tried very hard to get them as level as possible but things happen so not only do I have to fill these seams to make them nice and smooth but I have to level them out a tiny bit too so some of the seams the two parts are pretty well lined up and some of them not as much so I'm going to do some filling and then of course a little more sanding there are a number of different ways you could fill in these seams you could use bondo or superglue but today I want to try something I saw our friends over at volp and props doing they used more filament so we have ABS filament that we printed it with and I have a piece of raw filament here and using a wood burner they were melting the plastic down into the seam I'm gonna give it a shot and see how it turns out should be really good I did a little bit of a test piece right here seemed to work out although I had some practice issues the idea here is that this is the same material as what we're working with so it's the same density it should sand really well and leave nothing behind to get started I'm working on the back of the helmet I practiced but I'm not confident I'm gonna nail it on the first try so I'm gonna work on a part that I care less about the front of the mask here is what you're gonna see all the time so I'll hold off on doing that until I feel like I really nailed the process I am of course working with molten plastic close to my face and I don't want to breathe any of that in so I have my respirator I'm in a well ventilated area and I've also got a fan right there to kind of blow those fumes away from my face while I'm working if you were gonna do something like this you might want to work outside if that's an option so yeah you know throw my respirator on and give it a shot so I'm just heating up a little bits of filament and kind of mashing it down into the seam there and blending it a little bit it seems like it would be pretty easy to accidentally put our melt a hole through your print so probably worth adding more material than you think you need and then sanding it away you know have to do more filling later I guess I'm just trying to blend that in with the surrounding pieces there one of the problems I found with this technique was this bottom part of my thing would hit like like that I don't want that from working on this seam here with the tip I don't want to accidentally gouge the surface with the other part of it there was actually a tip on the end of this that I sanded off to make it more round so that I could come in like like this as opposed to trying to use the side of it that's how I accidentally did all this stuff so I'm trying to just use the tip keep the rest of the thing away from the part I care about also this side is lower than this side so I'm putting more filament on the lower side there's a little bit of an inconsistency there I also kind of wish I had some thinner filament this is three millimeter filament I think a thinner filament would be easier to work with at least be easier to middle melt quicker and fit down in that finished bottle a little easier all of my printers run on three millimeter so I'm gonna have any thinner filament so far it's looking pretty okay I'm gonna stay in this part down and see how it looks if you had a 3d printing pen you could probably use that tool a filament down I don't currently own one of those but I still think having it is flat hot paddle to flatten everything out is is super super useful I did a quick sanding test up here and it feels really good it's pretty level but it's clear that this side I need more plastic over here so I'm gonna try and bring it all the way out to here just because this side is lower it needs a little bit more filling but other than that this this is great this is perfectly smooth right there of course we'll prime and sand it a bit more later but it's all filled in it looks awesome here's our piece after maybe 45 minutes will work you can see since I used a different color filament for my filling there I do quite a bit of filling on these two seams here but once I sanded them down they're nice and smooth I've been going between this file to knock away most of the big bits and then 100 grit sandpaper to get it back down and level with the rest of it over here you can see just a thin line that's left and that's all I needed to really fill that in and in some spots I eventually found out if one side was higher than the other I could just sort of melt that higher part over a little bit instead of filling it with with other filament so far everything's working out pretty good it's just kind of time-consuming but the finish I think is gonna be a lot nicer than if I had used bondo or at least it's easier to get everything nice and level since everything is the same exact material now all I have to do is the same thing on this monster which might take a while let me show you what I mean right here this purple part is a little bit higher than this grey part down here there's a lip here so what I've found is I can go in and just sort of melt the higher spot over into the lower spot and fuse them together I've also found that it's really easy to pull off a little bit of the plastic or especially when you're adding more here I'll show you when you're adding a big old hunk of plastic there like that I found that feathering it into the area around it makes it sand a lot easier you won't end up with any kind of flaky bits once the plastic is down you want to go back over it and smooth it into the area around it so that all of the plastic that you laid down is fused with the the base material there anyway I've got about two or three more hours of work doing this so I'd better get working to it I should also put my respirator back on [Music] moving along here been at this for a few hours I've found that I can use this to fill spots in like around this spot I could just go in and kind of try and smooth this out but I do need a little bit more material in some of these areas and I can just use that as like filler like I normally would but again it fuses so that'll sand perfectly down here you can see this corner on this print right here didn't quite work exactly the way it was supposed to but I can lay down some more plastic on there and fix it up I'll just have to build it up a little bit it's hard to work in large chunks of molten plastic so I'll add a little bit and then go in once it's cooled and add a little bit more you want the whole bit that you're working with the whole piece of plastic to be molten that way it will actually fuse to the plastic below it and I'll let that cool I'll come back in and do a little bit more and then I can sand it clean also as I work a whole bunch of this plastic gets embedded or kind of stuck to the tip there so I have a wire brush and I can clean it off and it seems to perform a lot better when it doesn't have a bunch of plastic bobbed up on the end of it you also want to protect your eyes from these kind of fumes now this fan should help a lot but if you have some good safety goggles which you should probably worth wearing those to make sure you don't get the fumes in your eyes your lungs stay safe out there he's more dust than man been a couple hours and the mask seams are all filled in now I still have plenty more work to do on this but before I do that I'm gonna spray all these parts with filler primer if there are any small imperfections or any of the 3d print layer lines still hanging around this will fill them in in fact it's the end of the day right now so I'm gonna douse all of these things and let them dry overnight so in the morning they'll be ready to go for another round of sanding also this part the nose part here I'm gonna hold off to attach that for a while cuz odds are good I'm going to break that off another thing is this stand just a piece of wood with a clamp it is gonna be perfect for holding this while I paint it and I think these are the ones I'll just hang spray them and then hang them up and let dry [Music] our filler primer has had all night to dry it's looking really good before I jump in and do even more sanding I need to do a little bit more filling in some specific spots there are a couple of spots where the filler primer did not fill in all of the texture left behind so I have this air drying spot putty and a little spatula so I can use that to fill those in and I'll let those dry and then we will do more of our sanding while I'm working on that I want to tell you about our sponsor and the movie that this mask is from Code Geass Lelouch of the resurrection is a new feature length film from Funimation it's also a direct sequel to one of the most popular anime movies of all time koji oz lelouch of the rebellion the movie launches may 5th that'll be with Japanese language and English subtitles or a couple days later on the 7th and 8th in English dub the great news is to that you can go get advance tickets right now Vienna and over to Funimation films.com / Code Geass thank you so much to Funimation for sponsoring this video and this entire build we'll have links to the movie down below so you can check it out for yourself now what I'm gonna do is let this try and get two more sanding my spot putty is drying but I can get started on top of my sanding and this is what we're looking to correct there's still some of those print lines left now they're filled with our filler primer so I'm gonna start sanding away with this 320 grit sandpaper to try and remove that texture there we want this to be nice and smooth the good news is this filler primer is a lot easier to sand than our 3d printing filament so I can see the lines still and I want to sand them until they disappear I found with the print lines if you sand a perpendicular to the lines that seems to be the most aggressive way to get rid of them you can also be more of a wax on wax off sort of thing this area right here is all nice and smooth things that go up pretty well I did jump down to 220 so this is a little more aggressive some of these spots just need that extra bit of tooth to get down through all those lines this hasn't dried yet so I'm not gonna sand that yet but I'll try and get everything else we've got everything sanded down to 220 grit but before I move on I want to attach the nose piece here and I've got a couple of little spots for pegs to go and I've got my little metal pegs just like before set the drill these out drill these guys out [Music] now looks centered you can give that a squirt Brett thank you now what I have to do is fill in that seam and I'm just gonna use some body filler for that about that much just need to fill that seam in so this is similar to that green air drawing putty that we have but this is catalysed we mix in a catalyst so that it it's not gonna air dry there's a chemical reaction that's causing it to turn solid this will cure rock solid in about half an hour and then I can sand it nice and flush and you'll never see that seam you're doing a lot of this type of work you definitely want to wear a respirator work in a well-ventilated area I'm just patching up a little tiny little spot here but this is polyester it's pretty nasty stuff to breathe our filler is pretty much all cured but I can poke the bit that I mixed over here to make sure so I don't ruin it so now I can take my file and work this back down to the original shape with the seam nice and filled in seams all filled in there and now I'm doing the whole mask with 320 on over over everything let's get it ready for the last round of priming and then one more round of sanding looking pretty good here I've got a scouring pad just to kind of buff everything up and now I'm gonna take it over by that giant open door and spray a bunch of primer on it this will be the last layer of primer I hope and it will fill in any tiny imperfections and show any large ones that we may still have to handle hopefully it's all set our visor here needs to get tinted but before we do that I want to polish it up the best I can and I'm gonna use this stuff here this Novus stuff you go from three down to one so we'll do one round of this guy to start with and then work our way down this is essentially like sanding only with polishing compounds I also grab some of these cotton pads for doing the wiping so they're nice and soft and I'm gonna polish both inside and out this is really just sanding in this guy is just more sanding should have made my company sanding props that would have been a good name if there's any residue left over on the inside of the mask from where it touched down to the vacuforming buck this would take care of it got a good polish on there with the first one and we're going down to number two a different color even will do the same thing more polishing we're looking super shiny here time for the last step this is the number one and it's a spray it goes everywhere last bit of polishing and cleaning on our visor it's time to dye our visor we've done this before if you see the video we did where we made a visor for Adam Savage's aces helmet we did the same thing this is a synthetic fabric time these be synthetic to work on this ptg plastic going in this cauldron of hot water and we're gonna do some dyeing so now we have our witch's brew mix that up a little bit give our visor a little dip in the hot tub our dye bath is at 140 degrees Fahrenheit which is exactly what we want put some wires on my visor and it's can kind of go right the path just like that you can just go below the surface and then I'll just Bend these wires over to keep it there and we'll let it soak for five minutes our soups done delicious soup that is already crazy dark much darker now so I'm gonna take it out of there and give it a rinse in some cool water and we can see just how much that already tinted it that's really good but I'm gonna dunk it back in there for another five minutes it'll get a little darker we can keep that up until it gets to the color we want five more minutes that was five five minute dunks in our bath and that looks pretty good mmm ah but this here is just about ready to go I'll just try it off yeah we can finish the rest of the basket our primer is dry and it looks really really good you could just paint it at this point but I want it to be a little more smooth so I'm gonna do some wet sanding this is 600 grit got my water we're just gonna sand every surface down again so that it's even more smooth and then we can paint it but until then we have just a tiny bit more sanding to do open looking for any spots that still have some sanding lines from the previous grits I don't necessarily have to sand all this primer off but I might end up sending a lot of it off what happens at these really finer grits is you make a lot of really fine dusts and that dust clogs up your sandpaper so when we're dunking it in there we're actually washing a lot of that off but it also keeps all this fine dust from getting in the air which is nice because then you don't have to breathe all that in so that's why we're wet sanding and that's how we get this to a nice high grit make it all nice and shiny make it shine with the tiny details that are the most fun really tedious parts our wet sanding is done I got everything nice and cleaned and dried off but before I put any paint on I've got a tack cloth here and this will pick up any dust or any specks of stuff that are just lingering on the surface so they don't end up in the paint job I'm gonna give everything a good rub down there and prepare everything for painting this is the same setup I had for all the priming so I've got some hooks to hang it up here we go this stuff is kind of as the name would suggest tacky a little bit sticky too and it grabs onto anything that's loose everything's good to go for painting and I'm gonna start with a base coat of black paint this is the paint we're going with some create X we'll do a couple of layers but we're gonna start with the black on everything in our airbrush this create X recommends a PSI of 40 which is quite high but it's also kind of thick so if you like me had trouble spraying it read the bottle and it'll tell you 40 psi instead of the usual 20 I do with other airbrush paints all right let's do this I think all that sanding paid off it's so shiny given the black paint some time to dry now it's time for the color I'm going with a purple but this is a mixture of this pearlized white which is actually fairly translucent it doesn't cover very well but I mix it with this opaque purple 50/50 in this little jar here nice and simple math that's what I'm gonna airbrush all over everything I got to this by doing a few tests this is too bright this was pretty good and then I had a 3d print that had failed and I used that after sanding it to do a little bit more of a paint test so that I know that's what it's gonna look like when I spray it on there no surprises this is the part of the build where we're almost done we don't want any surprises it is the next morning and our mask is all dry the next thing we need to do is do some masking the part around the I guess it was would be the bezel around the where the visors gonna go this needs to be gold and the top part needs to be silver so I'm gonna mask all of it off and do a little more airbrushing time for my favorite kind of tedium this piece was my paint test and I'm gonna use it to see how dry the paint is now I did leave it overnight it should be fine but I'm gonna really press this masking tape into the surface and then peel it off and nothing came off so since this and this were painted at the same time this should be totally dry and ready for masking this is my one of my favorite tapes from Tamiya and since this line is nice and straight I should be able to just get the edge of my tape right along that edge in there with my thumbnail just like that go around this curve here I'm putting multiple pieces of tape down you can use my thumbnail to kind of help it in there also grab these silicon sculpting tools that's nice and soft it's not gonna ruin my paint job that can help us and then once I have a bunch of these laid out I can take a brand new blade this is very sharp and run it carefully down that seemed like oh there we go when I peel it we have a perfect edge on that mask and that's what we're gonna paint all of our edges are masked off but now I need to cover the bulk of it and I've got this wacky tool which attaches some tape to the edge of a piece of paper pretty handy that's gonna go right there I can trim it to size and then grab some more tape and tack it down on the sides here so that no paint is gonna leak around these things nice and covered up I don't need all this I can all get tucked down there or something yeah looking good our masking is all set now it's time to spray down the color the bottom is gold and the top is silver but I'm gonna paint the whole thing gold then mask off the bottom and paint the top silver so we have nice consistent layers of paint I swapped over to Tamiya paints mostly because they dry really fast and I love the finish which means I had to turn the PSI down on my compressor to 20 psi for these paints I also thinned it a tiny bit with some of their thinner [Music] gave the gold a couple hours to dry and it seems like it is dry enough to mask and I have to mask the top half off there's a little line right here that separates the two parts I'm gonna cover most of it with this paper of taping tool but the seams the important parts I'm gonna use the good tape to get a really clean edge on that and then I'll use my paper to cover the whole bottom of it but this edge is the really really critical part now I can cover off the entire bottom of the mat make sure I cover that part too I was gonna use the chrome silver paint that I have but a while ago it suffered a crack and started leaking I thought I had fixed it but I did not it's totally dry I ran to the store and they were all out of these but I got this rattle can of a similar to me a paint should be nice and easy to apply [Music] I've given the silver a little time to dry I'm probably gonna avoid touching it but I can start taking off all this masking paper and masking tape we'll see how it turned out oh that's so clean I'm very happy with that that looks nice oh that's nice for our clear coat going with this catalyzed stuff you take the top off and you pop it which mixes a catalyst in here this can will be good for 48 hours after that I'm gonna use it right away and do probably two coats I'll put one coat on here let it flash for about 10 minutes and then another coat then we'll let this thing cure overnight and it should be nice and glossy and durable this stuff is particularly nasty so I've got the big door open we have some fans going to blow everything outside and I'm gonna wear my respirator it looks so good shiny look at how shiny it is we left this to cure overnight it is rock solid to finish on here and it is super glossy now it's time to put most of these parts together starting with the visor and have to drill a hole in this so that we can attach it to the helmet on the inside of here with a screw I mean just a little bit this screw can go through there and it'll protrude just enough to grab on to the nose piece there's a hole in the back of this piece and this screw should thread right into it should there we go I think I got it in there yep now that is not held in there very strong but it is in the right place the rest of this is getting held in with hot glue and I'm gonna do a little bit at a time just work my way around the perimeter that looks pretty fantastic in there now to get this to stay on my head it is more of a mask than a helmet so in my 3d model I designed these three points where I can attach elastic so that it'll go over my head like a Jason Voorhees hockey mask style got some pieces of elastic here and some slides eventually this could be done permanently but I'm going to put it on slide so I can adjust it to fit me exactly perfectly it should slide right through and then I can run it through this slide so that it holds on there we go we got one side we'll do the other side able to put it on my head well I'm messing with this I want to take one last opportunity to thank the sponsor that would be Funimation and their new movie Code Geass links down below if you want to go check that out and see where this helmet came from so thank you for making this video possible of course I would be remiss if I didn't thank the members of our extra credit club for the support over the years we have a link down below so you can check out how to join the extra-credit Club yourself and get access to some exclusive behind-the-scenes content let's see if this fits not too bad I definitely need some foam in here so it's not resting on my forehead and it could definitely be a little bit tighter of course as usual all the tools and materials we use for this one are linked down in the description if you'd like to follow along on this build or a similar build we really do encourage you follow along because this is super super fun kind of work especially when the payoff is so shiny these bits of foam are gonna rest on my forehead keeping the mask away from my face and hopefully a lot more comfortable I'm just holding these in while the hot glue cools off but it's a great opportunity to remind you to subscribe if you haven't already because we do builds like this every single week I did add a strap to the top of my head here to hold it up on my head and that again I can adjust it if I need to change the tightness on it but that looks like it's gonna be pretty good the last step here will be to install these dome parts and they just pop right on there are little pegs in there like that and then this one goes in right behind it it still works yeah put it on see how it looks that's just my face is gone and it's all shiny I love it I feel like a superhero [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 395,216

Keywords: code geass, funimation films, lelouch of the resurrection, code geass lelouch of the resurrection, funimation, anime, mask, helmet, code geass movie, code geass cosplay, how to make Zero's helmet, code geass mask, lelouch mask, Code geass: lelouch of the Re;surrection, how to make, how to, 3d printing, painting, sanding, cosplay, zero cospla, lelouch cosplay, DIY, making, punished props, punished props academy, abs, new code geass movie, prop making, cosplay tutorial, how to paint

Id: QCdEdFUXzc4

Length: 42min 1sec (2521 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 29 2019