HOW TO: From 3D Model to Finished Prop - Tom Cruise's Oblivion Blaster!

today I'm going to show you how to turn a 3d model into a handheld physical prop in just one easy step here we go oh hey there fellow maker bill here welcome to the shop today I'm making Tom Cruise's pistol from the movie oblivion and I figured this would be a really great chance to show off a little bit of 3d modeling kind of whet your appetite a bit now this was a project for the propped art Secret Santa if you haven't joined the propped art group already well the link down below but every year they do a Secret Santa this year my gift II wanted something from the movie oblivion and I was happy to oblige so to get started here I'm gonna crack open fusion 360 grab my reference material and give you a very quick rundown on the 3d modeling process it's about three minutes long it'll get you started really really fast the software is free so why don't we jump in and learn a little bit about 3d modeling and then we'll turn it into a prop alright let's go the first thing I did was to gather some reference images it was hard to get all of the angles so I grabbed some fan-made props and I grabbed some screen used images and did the best I could I'll try and link to these down in the description next I started a new project infusing 360 and with an image I put together of all of my reference images I added an attached canvas with those reference images and I calibrated the scale of it using a ruler that I had put in that image after that I started a sketch to work on the side view I traced the relevant features over my reference image features like the top and bottom of the gun and the bevels as well as the top bottom and center of the barrel then I started a sketch on the front view using the points from that first sketch as reference then I drew the outline of the barrel and the gun body around it using just normal lines a mirror command and some fill it's this finished line was an offset inwards to create a cavity for that barrel I extruded all of these profiles to create the bulk form for most of the gun body then I started in another sketch to draw all of the main side profile details some of those were extruded directly through the main body to cut them out completely and some of them were surface details that didn't quite go all the way through and were added later then the barrel was extruded as a new body and I did the same thing with the profile we drew to make room for the barrel with a new sketch and another extrude I cut the back off of this new body and then I used the combine command to cut this out of the main gun body creating that front cavity I also used the barrel to cut out a cavity through the gun body and then I created a new barrel by drawing a cylinder in that cavity and I just made sure it was a new body and it wasn't joined to the gun body and the diameter was slightly smaller than that of the cavity by about point two millimeters then I created another cylinder to punch a hole in the front of the barrel you know that part where the bullet should come out on the barrel I drew and extruded the little sight then I used it to cut out a spot on the barrel for it to be attached then he used his Hillary to cut a hole through both the barrel and the gun body so that I could add a metal rod later on to make the prop more durable and add a little bit of weight the handles modeled separately starting by drawing a sketch of the profile from the top perpendicular to the length of the handle that profile was extruded a bit longer than necessary and then I trimmed off the bottom I used the cut off plane to create an offset plane so that I could draw a sketch for the very bottom of the handle those two profiles were then connected using a loft before connecting the handle to the gun body I trimmed off the rear portion of the main gun body with an extrusion and then I rotated the handle into place I used a plane to cut off the extra portion at the top that extra body can then be hidden or removed a bit more masses added to the back part of the handle and then I combined it with the rest of the gun body and I used the original side profile so it got out the trigger well all of the same previous techniques were then used and repeated to create all of the rest of the parts of the gun and all the little details on the side finally to create some panel lines I drew a sketch and then use that to cut the bodies into two pieces then the mating edges were chamfered before combining them back together leaving a nice groove as many parts as possible or modeled separately from the main gun body so that they could be printed separately and painted separately that was a brief rundown of the 3d model and kind of skated over a lot of the fine details if you want a deep dive and modeling this one I have a 30-minute long edit of the modeling process shows you absolutely everything can go check that out but for now well I went and printed all my parts these were all done on my Ulta maker - plus extended using ABS filament I prefer ABS that sans a lot easier than PLA I didn't really mess with the settings all that much as Justin Kira I think it was like 0.12 millimeter layer height other than that fairly default settings and this is what we have I got to tell you I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out there's one other thing I did this body part was one large piece so I cut it in two just to make it easier to print I also ran out of filament when I was printing at one point so I came in the next day and it was printing in midair up there so be sure to check your filament before you leave something printing all night so the first thing we need to do is take all these supports off and then we're gonna do a whole bunch of sanding now for prints like this sometimes supports just are necessary if you're gonna have big overhangs it means a little bit of extra clean up later on but these prints came out really nice so I'm a big fan of support whenever necessary I printed everything with brims so it's this extra bit of material that helps it stay stuck down to the build plate I find that's usually necessary when printing with ABS and then I got to go in and trim it off it's not that big of a hassle it's totally worth doing if you're having trouble with your prints sticking down so I'm just liberating these and being as careful as possible but I'm gonna come back in with sandpaper to clean it up a little bit like that the flash this this stuff that you could just throw away I'll actually save this and mix it with acetone into a slurry that I then brush on the bed of my printer to keep prints to stick down so well actually I'll hang on to this now a lot of these little detail parts here I could have printed along with the body so for example this switch here is going to eventually fit right in there but this surface is going to be easier to sand without a switch in the way and all the edges on the switch are going to be easier to sand with it not stuck in the body so I prefer when I can to print pieces separately like the trigger will eventually go in there but it's much easier to work on it when it's separate it's also easier to paint it especially if it's different color so I can paint this separately without having to mask it and then glue it on this surface here was touching the build plate it's why it's so shiny I do actually want to say and all that there's also a little bit of a burr on the edge where it touched down so I'm just going over with my needle file to round that over a tiny bit you could use a deburring tool but that tends to leave a little bit of a chamfer and I don't want that for this one so I'm going a little more surgical with my needle file here to round that over and then I'll go with my sandpaper and start cleaning that up these larger pieces had all the support material and it's time to take that off I just used the default settings in Kirra for the support I know that it can be done better and other slicing software might handle it differently or better but I'm gonna just dive in and see what I can do I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers and I'll go in and pull off what I can by hand but if I have to reach in two spots I can go in with my pliers and start extracting everything I've started to clean my parts up a little bit there was a lot of support material on the inside of this where the barrel needs to go and this is gonna get painted and then added so I want to make sure that once it's painted it'll fit nicely and right now it's a little snug so I'm gonna want to sand inside of there and of course I'll sand the outside of my barrel now I noticed something and this is common with 3d printing this was how it printed coming up this way the bottom layers even though I trimmed that little bit of flash off the bottom it's still ballooned out a very slight amount so if I stand this my sand stick here is missing part because this part here is just a slightly wider diameter so to make sure it fits in there nicely I'm gonna go around and sand it so that this surface is all nice and flush so I'll do that and then we'll see how it fits in our main body there I've done a little bit of cleanup work on this to get the barrel part to fit in and it does fit nicely I want to make sure it's nice and loose in there because I'm gonna be painting this and that added layer of paint will cause a little more friction it will also maybe get scratched on the wane I want to avoid that so that's that's a good fit right there I've just been using this piece of sandpaper wrapped around a metal pipe to go in and stay on the inside there and it's looking all right the tools I like to use to do some more of the fine detail work I mentioned my my needle files here these are so good for this type of work I also have a card they call it a card let's see it says file card but it's a wire brush to clean the 3d printing filament dust out of your files after a while these will get gummed up and they are not as effective so you want to clean them every once in a while one of the next steps will be filling in this area here I think this was on the support material and these layers just didn't get laid down really cleanly but we can fix that it's not a problem the thing is I could just start standing this but I want to avoid some of these are kind of stringy and I want to avoid just ripping these all out so instead I'm gonna hit this with a little bit of super glue that way any of the stringy bits of filament there will stay in place when I start to stand it so just have some normal super glue here I'm just gonna kind of lay it over all the loose parts and I want to make sure it kind of soaks down in there because I want it to grab any parts that are loose and then I don't really need all of that to stay on there so I'm just gonna wipe it down a little bit with a paper towel then I'll use my superglue accelerant to kick it all off and it'll cure right away and I can start sanding it there we go and well that's just a part of my hand now but that's convenient because I've always wanted to have a paper towel on demand yeah now I've got this nice hard sort of shell there and I can start sanding it a little bit now I'm not gonna sand this all the way down to smooth because there will be some gaps that we have to fill but this will at least get us our we're there and I'm just using a 220 grit sandpaper here I find with this printer and with this filament that's a good place to start with a nicer print you can start at 400 or with a print that really needs a lot of work you could do like a hundred grit knock-back all those layer lines these parts here that are still a little shiny our low spots so I want to fill those in and I've got my spot putty or this is an air drying spot putty this is the actual green and it's great it cures really fast it's a little toxic so you definitely want to use this in a well-ventilated area and try not to Huff it while you're working with it I'm just using my exacto knife here to spread it out and fill in those low spots this may take a couple passes so what I'll do is spread some on here and then I'll let it dry while I go and work on a different part then I can come back and sand this and see if it needs any more fulfilling this stuff's really great but I tend to make sure I only use it on gaps that are at most about a sixteenth of an inch wide or deep it is air drying it's not catalyzed so if you put a big old goober on there then it's never gonna dry well I've got my spot putting out there's a couple more spots I want to do a little bit of filling on that'll be hard to see in fact the barrel covers a lot of that but there's a little bit of some gaps in there that I'm gonna fail also this front spot here you can see there's a bit of a texture again the barrel is gonna cover most of that but I might as well fill this little part here this stuff just needs about a half an hour to dry and then I could come back with my sandpaper and smooth it all out it's time to really get down to the nitty gritty and sand like I said before I'm starting with a 220 grit and I know that works really well with this ABS at this layer height to get it down to remove all those layer lines and you'll notice I haven't sprayed this with any primer or filler primer I found that it really isn't necessary with these prints however your results may vary as an example here is my Blade Runner blaster and you can see that this blue is not primed I just sanded and sanded and sanded until the layer lines were gone and then I kept going up the grits until it was nice and shiny this looks like an injection molded part but it's not it came off the same printer as this piece so all you need is a little bit of elbow grease and a whole lot of sandpaper and you can turn your prints into something nice and shiny now these parts don't need to be that shiny I'm gonna paint them I got these parts really shiny for mold making but I'm not gonna make a mold of this so I think maybe 200 or 400 grit is probably gonna be enough but for now I'm just going over all of my parts with this 220 to get rid of the layer lines I do prefer printing with ABS but I have a really good setup for it my ulta maker prints it really well the glass bed is perfect for it and I built an enclosure for it of course I know not everyone prints an ABS and I bet you've got a favorite filament that you like to use I know PLA is just the easiest it's the easiest to print with anyway but I've seen a lot of people now using things like PPG or some sort of mix between all of those and I wonder what your favorite filament to print with is and most importantly why so hey let me know in the comments if you have a favorite filament to print with and please tell me why I'd love to see a lot of the different types of filaments that are being used I've got this part too where I want it mostly just knocking back the layer lines I will have to go to a higher grit probably a 400 on this but before I do that I want to get the rest of the pieces to this state starting with these little knob button looking thingies I printed these separately they actually go in these circles here but I wanted to make sure that the edge between them was nice and defined so I printed them separately and there's still a lot of the brim around that and I'm going to leave that on there so that I can sand these nice and smooth and have a little something to grip them by this is 220 but this is also 220 it's just this rubbery sandpaper which is sometimes a little bit easier to get around stuff like this so I can see in these down just like that that's pretty good and then to cut them out I'm actually gonna use my leather hole punch it should be just about the right size to cut that out just like that now I just have to poke that out I'm gonna use a stick and tada I can't believe it out of that it landed right here anyway there's a tiny little round bit that will eventually get glued in right there that actually looks like it'll work out I'm gonna sand this part first though so these little guys I'm gonna put somewhere safe so I don't lose them my air drying spot putty is all dry which is great that means I can start sanding and this stuff sands really nicely I'm gonna start with some 220 grit sandpaper and the goal here is to sand most of this filler off and only leave what's down in the crevices that's filling the gaps that we had in our 3d print so as I send this away you can see spots like right there where the filler is left behind and that's what we want that's filling a gap right there so I'll go over this whole thing and we'll see if we have to do any additional filling something else to keep in mind this is the kind of dust you really don't want to breathe not that you want to breathe any dust but a dust mask is definitely mandatory for this kind of work you don't want to breathe it in oh I should I just put mine on this part right here was clearly very low compared to everything else since there's a lot of filler in there and it's kind of hard to see little Primus at some point to make it more obvious but there are still some low spots that are gonna need a little bit more filling so before I spend a ton of time sanding this whole thing just gonna put a little bit more filler on some of these low spots actually I can show we'll do a visual test real quick here I'll just cover this whole area and red sharpie and then I'm gonna sand it so I'm sanding off all the high spots those red spots are still low and we need to fill them [Music] this whole piece of printing in this orientation that means that this curve right here as the slope gets more more flat the layers become more apparent so up here it's fairly smooth but down here these I can even see like a millimeter gap right there so to really nail that part I've got my hundred grit sandpaper to try and chew it away at that if I can't quite get through all those layers I'll go get my spot putty but for now this part just needs to get a little bit of extra love yeah that worked out okay so the 100 grit was able to get rid of those layer lines there and now I'm just gonna go in with my 220 smooth that up and then clear up the really fine layer lines right there been about another hour and our second layer of filler is dry so I can get that all sanded down and hopefully this is the last bit of filling we're gonna need to do I also filled the bottom of this part the stair-stepping on this was a little egregious so give it a good rough up and filling and then I can set it all flat looks like I've pretty much got everything we'll know when we prime it now I can take my 220 and go over all the rest of the parts get rid of the last bits of the layer lines just about ready to do our first pass of priming but I think it's time to install these tiny detail parts I left them off until now just to make it easier to sand around them but they're all gonna be the same color I think I might as well put them in now just like that this is just a little bit of superglue should hold it in nicely and then this fella can go right down like that a little bit of squeeze out there so I'll just wipe that up with some paper towel a little bit and then I have my activator here so I can go to a touch there we go those parts are all secured and now I can set everything up for priming these two larger parts here I'm gonna put on some skewers put a little tape on here so that it'll be snug like that it's not snug try again set that in there so this is nice and snug I can paint it like so and then I can set it down in here I've got these other smaller parts here I'm not gonna glue them on yet mostly because it'll be a different color it'll be easier to paint them that color before attaching them to prime them though we do want to get them primed I've got some double stick tape and I'm gonna lay that down on a piece of wood so that's sticky I can take these parts like the back of this won't be seen so that can get stuck down there and these little parts can go down the same the trigger can stick down like that and then this guy that's where it's gonna attach that won't get painted I can stick stick that down I can stick that down sneak bub now I can flail this about and spray-paint it and it won't go flying anywhere while I'm working on that painting I want to take a moment to thank our patrons it's because of you and your support that we get to work in this shop every day and support a team of four people if you would like to jump in on the fun and join the rest of our patrons head on over to patreon comm slash punish props to get access to weekly behind-the-scenes vlogs early access to our build videos and extra credit videos for every one of our build videos thank you so much for the support let's get back to painting it is now a day later decided to give this plenty of time to dry and the primer is all nice and dry and now we can start doing our final pass of cleanup the primer also helps us see any spots we might have missed when we were doing our filling and sanding now that we've got that primer there it's very clear you can see scratches left behind from our 220 grit sandpaper so this whole surface on everything needs to get sanded again with 400 grit sandpaper we can also see much to my dismay spots that we missed with our filler putty so it's much more clear now that this is a low spot so I've got my filler putty right here and I can clean it up a little bit just fill that little spot in so we can let that dry while we are sanding and working on our other parts and then in about half an hour should be able to sand that nice and smooth similar thing going on up here you can still see some of the relics of the 3d printing so we need to decide how much work we want to put into that we could either try and sand it down more smooth or we could try and fill it in in this case I think I could probably say in that a little bit more smooth this area I'm not too worried about we have another part that's gonna cover most of that but I'll probably give that a good once-over as well the cool thing about this is hopefully if I say it all the grey away that means that it is nice and flat I may have to prime this again just to be able to see since I put some filler in there it's kind of hard to see where the low spots are now definitely feels good this spot there's a little bit of grey right there that spot needs a little bit of filling again I could just sand that until it's smooth but at some point you start changing the shape of this whole thing and we don't want to do that so I'll just fill that with a little bit of my filler putty here we go we'll get the sanding everything else [Music] [Music] everything so far is sanded down to this 320 grit my 400 grit paper was a little too fun I was getting all gummed up this stuff is awesome so it's kind of where I have it now did a little more filling and sanding so all of the little blemishes are covered the last thing I want to do before the last round of priming is a little bit of buffing with this scouring pad this is a fairly high grit scouring pad and this will just help get that last little buff in there and the surface is nice I'm kind of looking at it in the light so I can see the shine see if I've missed anything horrendous actually I had a thought too because I wear my wedding ring but at this point if this scratches the surface that would be a super bummer so I'm going to set it aside for now just don't tell my wife she knows anyway after this we'll get everything set up on our little priming or painting station here and we'll give it one or two good coats of a finer model primer that Tamiya model primers will actually take that stuff and throw it in a cup of hot water it's not super hot but just will warm it up a little bit that helps the spray be a little more misty when it comes out the front of the noodle as come on skipper Willy would say yeah just help to have a nice finer finish which we want to make sure we get for our paint jobs [Music] one more coat in like ten minutes and then we'll give it a good good some good time to dry I went and put two light coats of primer on all the parts gave them about an hour to dry still don't want to get my greasy mitts all over them but I can do my base coat of color now and you can see I've got these pieces here and I've got some over here these are all gonna get painted silver so I might to me a silver chrome paint here loaded up in the airbrush and then these ones are gonna get the gunmetal this way I keep the pieces apart I can paint them different colors and then I'll put them together later and I don't have to do any masking so let's fire up the old airbrush put down some paint did it go blue [Music] huh [Music] we got our base coat of paint done on all the parts nice and dry I also went in and added a clear coat over everything just to protect it a little bit we do have to do just a little bit of masking and that clear coat will help make sure we don't lift any of that base paint up what we got to do on this handle is this part right here so I'm going to mask off everything except for the white and then we'll airbrush that on I've got the base layer of masking tape down but instead of just trying to strategically lay it down I put down more than I needed I'm gonna cut away what I don't need so I want to try and figure out that line right there let's see that is 45 millimeters up so I'll do the same thing on the other side right there and those need to meet like that I'll just clean it up a little bit now I'm gonna cut this away and when I cut into the masking tape it will cut into the model a little bit but that's okay that'll be the edge of the paint you'll never notice the cut if you want to use a really really sharp brand-new blade if you can to do this kind of work you don't want to have to claw it at a whole bunch of times then this just ends right at that groove right there just like that and the rest of this tape is extra and can be removed so now everything that's exposed will be painted white I have some white paint loaded up in my airbrush here I also masked off some of these smaller parts that just need a little kiss of white on some of these parts here gave this only a few minutes to dry I use the hairdryer to help it along the way I can touch the bottom here and see that paint is not coming off which is good if you're gonna do a test like that touch it somewhere that you're not gonna see a lot a little little life tip for you there this is one of my favorite parts pulling off the masking tape Oh tell me that isn't just the most satisfying thing ever yeah okay let's do it again on this side come with me won't you oh that's nice Jen don't careful there we go hey that looks it looks pretty great I think that's all the masking I have to do for this but bill there's more white decals and stuff oh I'll show you how that's gonna go and it doesn't involve paint instead of white paint I have some white adhesive backed vinyl and this is gonna get cut out on my vinyl cutter all the logo symbols and texts for this piece were designed in Inkscape so I made a vector file and I can feed that to my vinyl cutter to cut all of them out of this vinyl then I can peel this off the backing and carefully apply it to my prop and the vinyl is gonna be a permanent part so instead of making a stencil and painting it we're gonna take the positive out of here and lay it down on the piece to line this part up I'm gonna put some masking tape down to give me an edge to follow this way I know it'll be parallel with the line right there and I could put some transfer tape on there to move these pieces over but I think with these simpler line parts I can probably just do it by hand like that needs to start way up oh that's kind of where that goes I think that's just gonna kind of hang out over the white right there I think it looks pretty cool and then this will wrap around and meet up with the other side and then we'll trim them together but for now I can just remove that and that looks really nice and clean this can get tucked away there's a little extra bit there I can remove so these two pieces need to meet up I will cut one of them carefully there we go get rid of that next part there and then I'll just line this one up over it yeah and then I'll trim the middle or the meat take it off there we go and then I'm just gonna press all of these down into the surface with a q-tip make sure that everything is nice and secure yeah oh that looks clean I like that I'm doing some weeding so all of the I don't know what they call what do they call the little bits in the middle of like OHS and stuff I can't remember what that's called but those little pit bits are getting pulled out now while I get ready to lay all these parts down it's so much easier to try and do this now then later when you're trying to put it down on the part this is kind of tedious but I actually find it satisfying all right so I got the Middle's out the outsides or it can be tricky with these really little bits they may want to go because the adhesive is still kind of hanging out there between the parts so I'm just cautious Lee and slowly removing them you stay there hey Pratt I can smell you it's time to put the tiny little decals on our part and to do that I've got some transfer tape this is just a low tack tape it's designed to stick well enough to pull the piece or the the vinyl up not so much that it won't let it stick back down so just like that I'm able to lift it up and then I can kind of get everything aimed press it down and hopefully when I peel off the transfer tape everything stays hey look at that and then I can just press that into the surface and voila it's done let's see some text goes next to that lock barrel right there so I can let a piece of tape here just press that down oh not all the text came with it try again really press into that come on are both you there we go and then that can go over here press that down really well ooh there we go nice I guess we'll just repeat that over the rest of the gun [Music] ah circle now [Music] [Music] I dated another layer of clear coat on this bad boy to protect everything we've done so far and hopefully that helps our vinyl stick down and not move anywhere it's finally time for the assembly this is when I'm very happy that I kept all these parts separate until now this parts can go in here and there is a flat spot on the top where this part can go and that'll get glued down and I can do that now because once that's glued down this won't be able to come out so I'm happy with everything and I can glue that in place I want to sand the surfaces that are gonna get glue it I got these little sanding twigs that are so useful especially this part that I was painted I'm just gonna scratch away some of the paint get back down to the 3d printed plastic a bit just so that it's got something to grab onto and I grab my glue we're just gonna do super glue for some of these smaller parts a little bit of glue we won't need much a little bit of glue like that and then on the back of this piece I'm gonna hit it with my superglue accelerant now when it gets set down it'll cure instantly so we want to make sure that we're we get it right in the first try just like that so I can't go out any more but that's okay that's where we want that to chill when we put all of this together before we put the the main body together we have some long smaller parts here that we can glue down just like before we want to make sure any of the surfaces this has already been sanded but this spot right here we want to make sure we scratch away a lot of the paint I don't need to sand all of it just enough though so that the glue has a little something to grab on to now instead of spraying on and getting it everywhere I'm going to set this down and position it where it needs to go make sure it's all nice and straight and then I have a little bottle of accelerant and I can just go and put a tiny bit there and a tiny bit here and that'll seep under and cure all that glue [Music] I've designed these parts to have this hole that runs through both sides and I have this steel rod that I picked up at the hardware store that will connect the two that'll make this assembly much more rigid and it gives the prop a little bit of weight which is nice this is also the last step of the assembly and to glue it up I need a little bit more time than superglue can afford so I've got some epoxy this stuff cures in like three minutes so once we're ready to go we got a jump to it and I think I think I'm ready to go let's try it let's do a dry assembly that goes in there that goes in there and then that goes in there like that and then I have a clamp ready my jaws have tape on them so I don't ding up my paint job I can clamp it together let's get to mixing [Music] alright there's a little bit of squeeze out so I want to carefully remove that [Music] alright that's looking pretty good so I'm just gonna leave it for a good 5 10 minutes until it's cured up in the movie prop it looks like there's a real LED here I didn't plan for wiring or anything but I do have a real LED I want to install it and just have that nice plastic dome it won't light up but it will still look pretty cool this I don't eat all of this so so I think I'm just gonna trim that on the bandsaw just get a little dome I got these really cool pliers for holding round things out the front of the plier like that plier pliers just need the tiniest amount of glue and then I can drop that piece in there I didn't straight in there yeah there there we go little dab of accelerant OOP right off my epoxy is nice and cured and I should be able to take the clamp off with no problem so far so good this this is great it is holding together really well there's just one last thing to do it's far too clean it's time to weather it just a little bit for the weathering I'm gonna do some oil paints I really like how these look on mechanical things so I have these water mixable oil paints and you can actually thin them a tiny bit with water which is super super useful to get a nice thin layer on here and I'm just gonna douse everything and then wipe it all down [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I am so stoked for how this turned out looks so cool with all the the weathering I love how the oil paints kind of stained the white so it's not that stark brand new White's got that world warm feel and I really digged a little bit of rub buff I added to just some of the edges to make it look like it's been around the block a little bit this thing is so cool that is the full build for our pistol from oblivion the Tom Cruise oblivion they didn't have this in elder scrolls this was crazy fun like I said it was a project for our prop cart Secret Santa we'll have a link to the propped art group down below I hope you learned a little bit about 3d modeling and I hope you give it a shot yourself the software is free the the resources are free we did a little bit of 3d modeling in this video but if you want to see the entire process we have a second full video on the 3d modeling over on our second channel and of course if you're looking for a little bit more of a beginner 3d modeling project check out the Han Solo dice video we did it's literally a cube with some symbols on the side of it you should be able to knock that out in no time even if you don't have a 3d printer it's well worth learning even just some basic 3d modeling techniques if you want to get stuff printed but you don't have a printer you could team up with a buddy see if there's a local makerspace little print it for you or send your files out to get printed at a place like Conoco or shapeways so also libraries have 3d printers now check those out that's gonna do it for this build thanks so much for hanging out with me in the shop today I do hope you give this a shot yourself it's super super fun I want to take a chance to thank our patrons for all of the support it's because of you that we get to work in this wonderful workshop on goofy fun projects like this if you want to join in on the fun head on over to patreon calm sliced props to get access to behind-the-scenes vlogs early access on our build videos and extra credit videos for those build videos that's all I've got for you thanks so much I'll see you in the next build I'm actually gonna use my leather hole punch I'm gonna try to anyway this is a low tack tape that's designed to never get cut with scissors snare okay these these scissors are super dull now I know that hold on it's going great you guys all right let's get the sanding I'll just glue that back on there and no one will ever know that fell off

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 205,767

Rating: 4.9305325 out of 5

Keywords: punished props, bill doran, cosplay, costume, prop, weapon, gun, blaster, pistol, oblivion movie, oblivion, how to, DIY, 3d printing, 3d printed, 3d model, 3d printer, fusion 360, sci fi movie, 3d modeling, how to 3d model, how to finish 3d prints, how to sand 3d prints, 3d printed prop gun, how to 3d print a prop gun, 3D Model to Finished Prop, Tom Cruise's Oblivion Blaster, 3D PRINTING Tom Cruise's Oblivion Blaster Prop, sanding, Punished Props Academy, Chinbeard, tutorial, replica

Id: bFdIE_7j6nk

Length: 42min 31sec (2551 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 28 2019

Reddit Comments

[u/cheesebanana]

Absoluted loved this. Fantastic.