Let's Make Foam Helmets! BOBA FETT & THE MANDALORIAN | 500k Community Challenge

which sheet of foam wants to be a Boba Fett helmet today oh look that one already has the pattern on it let's get to work first thing I'll do is rough cut all of these pieces we recently hit half a million subscribers which is really kind of mind-blowing every time we hit a big milestone here on YouTube we do a community project so at a hundred thousand we did Malcolm Reynolds gun from Firefly 250 we had our friend Jonah design a really cool dagger the Makonde dagger and we built that and then for this one we're doing this Boba Fett helmet and the idea is these patterns are free can you download them the links down below viewers can build this build along with me and then send me a clip of your final project that we will then share along with everyone else's build if you want to participate well the link down in the description and the blog post for this video it's super duper fun you'll have a a month or two to build it all the details aren't down below this one that I'm cutting out right now is the classic Boba Fett but I've also included a pattern for the new Mandalorian helmet from the new shell that's the one that you want to make go for it in fact you can make any Mandalorian helmet using just these base patterns with my patterns I usually make just the left side or the right side and then when you're tracing them out you can just trace one of them flip it over trace the other one saves on printing paper and making a bunch more patterns the pieces that I'm cutting out right now are all meant to make the base form of my helmet this is the form that everything else will be attached to there are other pieces like the ear covers that I'm not doing yet those we cut out of different foam so I'm holding off on those just doing these major parts here out of this 10 millimeter foam but floor mats would work just fine - it's about the same thickness one of the coolest things about Mandalorians of course is that they have this sort of base style that you can customize and there are so many different characters and I'm sure everyone has their favorite Boba Fett the classic Jango Fett whose daddy Sabine's probably a good favorite actually what's you favorite Mandalorian please let me know in the comments I want to know which one speaks to you maybe you have your own custom Mandalorian and that's your favorite all of my pieces are now rough cut so that they're a little bit easier to manage and now I want to cut them all to the line got my knife here nice and sharp to do all my cutting you can do every single cut on this using only a sharp knife just like that you just want to make sure that you don't tilt the blade too much because then you'll get an unwanted bevel there we go now those are all nice perpendicular straight cuts like that except for some of these that I've marked with a dotted line then on the pattern I have the same thing I want an inner bevel on this one which means I want to cut the bevel under it as opposed to over it like that this piece here needs a bevel on the outside which means I need to cut it like so and of course you can totally do that with a knife however I have my bandsaw set up so I'm gonna do the cuts over there actually I'm gonna do all my cuts over there and then finish it with my bevels [Music] time to cut some bevels my dotted lines and one of the reasons why I love doing foam work on a bandsaw is I can tilt the bed I can tilted to exactly the angle I want in this case around 40 degrees which should be around there I don't know I can't see the the gauge but I can tighten it and then I can do all those cuts and they will be perfect [Music] the next step in our transformation is to take these parts that are flat give them a little bit of a three-dimensional bend to them we're in a heat form um let's start with this guy just heat it up a little bit just enough to make it a little more pliable and then I'll use my foam anvil to give it more of that domed form that we want out of the helmet we don't have to get it all the way there just give it a little bit of help so then we glue it all together it makes that roundish form a lot easier like that mm-hmm this is one of those steps I'm always tempted to skip for time but I've never regretted doing it it's always so helpful to have a little bit of that form built right into our piece there I use the heat gun for this the heat gun gets plenty hot much hotter than a hairdryer I have a hairdryer here I use for drying paint quickly and for drying my beard and it gets warm but not warm enough you don't want to burn it you got to get it warm but not so hot that it burns it doesn't take much you also don't want to burn yourself so you know be careful there we go the cheek pieces here I'm gonna keep those flat for now we'll assemble these later it's a little weird we'll get to it I like to do assemblies in small subgroups so I'll do each half of the helmet by itself but even smaller groups I'll put these together I'll put these together and then I'll put these together and then I'll work from there for putting all my parts together I'm going to use a contact cement here so I've got to brush it on both sides also this stuff is pretty toxic so I have the correct respirator to wear I'll put that on in just a second really what I want to do is just get a good not too goopy layer of glue put on each of these edges and then you got to let it dry for a good 5 minutes so what I'll do is I'll glue up this piece leave it there to dry go go up another couple of pieces and then do my assembly the contact cement is not shiny anymore which means it's ready to go now I just stick these two edges together and make sure my registration marks line up I can squish the foam a little bit if I have to to get it to work just like that and those will stick permanently awesome something funny was going on here these didn't quite line up perfectly but I put it together anyway and then I went to attach this piece and my registration lines were way off then I realized that I'm building the left side and this is the piece for the right side normally I put an L or an R right there so that I know which side is which I was in a hurry and I didn't do that so I goofed it up so this has to come apart this is a fresh seam I can totally take it apart I have some thinner here it's really nasty stuff so I'm gonna make sure I have my respirator on for that just like that comes right off I don't want to rip the foam you gentle here there we go you try again now I can combine all of my sub assemblies just like we put all the other parts together just sticking it together with contact cement what's cool though is as you start putting together bigger and bigger chunks the three-dimensional form starts taking shape and this is really kind of the magic trick when it comes to using a VA foam the flexibility of it lets you do this by hand and the seams the way the seams are cut and put together it creates this domed 3d shape next part is the sort of side panel here nice and easy to stick together nothing complicated most of the helmet form is ready to go but we kind of tackle these weird cheek things and I'll show you how I do it it's a little weird these have been preformed a little bit with heat and I put the glue on so we're ready to stick everything down that's gonna get carefully and slowly attached and I'm not worrying about it being stuck on the back I just want to make sure this edge is nice and lined up once we fold on that together at all it'll work a little bit better but we don't want it to clean this edge up later one of the great things about foam is it like if these two don't line up those two registration lines I can just alright just stretch the foam a little bit and then I need the bottom two to line up I can just sort of scrunch it up oh look at that it's almost like I designed it to work that way and I didn't just fudge it at the end but now I can I can press that closed and that'll help this get that indent that we want next is the the inner cheek part here and this part is pretty like hands-on you gotta get a little rough with it the contact cement will want to stick if it touches anywhere that you are not working so you want to make sure that it's not preemptively touching down just line up the registration like we did with everything else okay and now I can try and press it all together and that's our weird cheek thing and we'll glue it down to the helmet but the sort of byproduct of all of this manipulation is that this edge is no longer straight and this one is no longer straight so we can fix that before we attach it to the helmet but I'm pretty happy with that this is gonna get it attached right there but before then I want to clean up this edge so it's nice and smooth remove some of this extra material for that rotary tool with a sanding bit is going to be your best friend let's do this [Music] on the inside there's just a little bit of extra material here not necessary to remove unless you want the inside to be pretty - and I do time to attach this I glued everything up a little glue on the top there along this edge and a little bit of glue on that part right there I can very carefully stick it all together let's get that top part lock down and just like on the inner cheek part I'm really just concerned with getting the edge of the seam to touch and line up as well as I can with those registration lines close enough kind of flatten out that little nub in there and now that bevel I can I can close it just like that and that creates the the indent on the cheek here I'll just go around that edge and press it together really hard to make sure that it's nice and stuck down but that's half a boba fett helmet just about anyway this is a critical step putting the two halves together I put my contact cement on both sides in fact I put two layers and I let it dry for a couple minutes in between them just to make sure I have a really strong bond on this last seam here and just like always I am taking my time I make sure everything is that lined up as possible we do have seams that aren't too bad we will tackle those in a little bit clean them up a bit we want to give ourselves as good a chance as possible to making that look nice and smooth so I'm taking my time looks good to me Oh actually wait I can put it on oh yeah you bring me to captain solo and the Wookiee that I know that's not the line from Empire that's the only thing I could think of right now anyway now all I have to do is tweak the form a little bit and we can move on to the next step got my heat gun out again we're gonna do a little bit more forming this cheek needs to be rounded a little more so I'll do that and then anywhere that looks a little lumpy I can just kind of heat form it you do want to be careful if you heat up your glued seems too much they'll start coming apart so be gentle all right trying to get the curve down here to match the curve up here so getting that curve to match this curve if you're looking at it from the top like that I'm getting it pretty close there will be a sheet of plastic in here the visor and that will be like the final way I can lock this into position I'm just getting it a little closer I've got a reference image here and I'm looking at how far apart these need to be and then I think what I'll do I've got a piece of duct tape here is just tape it into position so that it kind of stays like that while I continue to work on this going with a couple of pieces of tape here because I think these these two edges should be parallel now this this needs to be a little bit we'll fix it to fix that edge I have another piece of tape just some masking tape here and I'm gonna use that to mask off where that new cut is gonna be the new sort of straighter edge and I'm again comparing it to my reference to make sure that it's in the right spot but once that's down i can just trace with the marker and remove all that trimming off the excess here it doesn't have to be perfect I'll come in and clean it up with the rotary tool but that's that's what we're going for it too oh yeah well that doesn't look nice at this point it gets super handy if you've got a head form to put your helmet on while you're working and you have some options like this lifecast this is a live cast of my twin brother looks just like me rather handsome you'll need some friends and a bunch of materials to make it but they're really useful and super sturdy for years and years or you can buy a life cast or a head form this is from monster makers it's plastic and it comes ready to go you can put your helmet on that but I have another option that I think it's pretty cool this is a head form made out of foam I designed this and I have a pattern for it it's just a few bucks over in our store you'll have to supply your own foam and glue but the pattern is used to put together this generic head form so that you can work on your helmets I mentioned cleaning up seams earlier and I'm gonna do that now with some caulk this is an air drying putty you would normally use in like your bathroom to seal your tub or whatever I'm using it to seal my seams I'm just putting a little bit in there this little spatula to fill that seam so that it looks all nice and smooth all I'm doing is making sure I get enough of it in there and then I'll smooth it all nice like to finish smoothing it I just have some water just wet down my finger and I can carefully smooth this all out this is kind of like what you would do with bondo you can't really use bondo because it's so rigid and this foam is not but this is kind of like that and this is kind of like sanding it's not as seamless as you can get with like a rigid material but for foam this works really well I went a little overboard and pretty much went over every seam it's really up to you how much you want to fix up your seams if you don't want to do any of this at all that's up to you this stuff will actually shrink a little bit when it dries so you may find that you want to do a second pass of filling like tomorrow but I think this will be for me okay I think I should let that dry good morning it's time to get some more work done on the helmet the filler did a pretty good job of filling in those seems good enough anyway for me there's some of these just sort of goobers here these corrupt this crud from the wiping it on there and I have some 220 grit sandpaper just the core sort of smooth that out I can't sand this perfectly flush it just won't work the foam in the coffer just far too flexible but I can smooth out just a little bit of rough texture there so I'm just going to go over the whole helmet and then it adds more details details like the trim and the ear pieces on the side and of course the iconic rangefinder then I make all those parts out of foam [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] got most of our detail pieces added to boba fett here and there looking pretty great there's one more very important piece that's gonna go right here talking about his rangefinder and I want to make it be able to flop down and I think I'm gonna use magnets I'm gonna try anyway this is the rangefinder part here and I think that the stem portion here I think I can put magnets in that so that I can make it removable and also so it can rotate we'll see if that works I definitely need to make this out of something more rigid than evie a foam it's got to be able to hold its own weight up so I'm gonna use PVC plastic there's a quarter inch thick it's a foam with PVC plastic and it is plenty rigid enough for this guy this plastic you can definitely cut it with a knife but especially with this quarter-inch stuff cutting it with a bandsaw is definitely the way to go I cut everything a little wide then I can use this belt sander to get it down to the line and we go that looks respectable that'll end up over here and pivoting like that here's my magnets they're about 1/4 inch in diameter and I think I'm gonna stack two of them up to fill the full thickness of that to drill it I've just got a Forstner bit here and I'm gonna go all the way through now hopefully those magnets are nice and snug in there let's see oh yeah super snug to keep those in there I'm gonna go with superglue this is all kind of gnarly too I'll just sand it nice and flat before we install it there we go and then the magnets that are in the helmet should hold it so that we can position it the rest of the pieces are gonna be made out of foam just like everything else this I hope this works I planned it to work where I put magnets in the middle of this to hold that and it all gets layered together so there should be a magnet in there there will be to hold that and then another magnet on this guy to hold it from the other side and then hopefully that provides enough friction for this to sort of stay it put when I don't want it to move we'll find out pretty soon this part here is gonna go on the bottom and to get it as thick as I needed it I actually glued two pieces of foam together so this is a 10 millimeter piece and the 4 millimeter piece to get it to the right thickness now I can cut it out first layer can go together I just use some contact cement to secure it and now I noticed that when I put this on here the the plastic is a little thinner than the foam so I think I'm going to use a rotary tool to just take a little bit of material off the top here there we go that's a little more flush and it should be more snug when I put this on there so if there's a little more friction this is the part on top and I'm just gluing the back of it down I traced out the area where it will connect to this fellow here using my template that way I don't get any glue here where the rangefinder stem needs to move if I get a bunch of glue in there I'll probably keep it from wanting to move I very nearly glued these together without installing the magnets so I'm gonna do those now before I join them together and these are just quarter inch diameter so I've got a quarter inch Forstner bit here and I don't want to punch all the way through but I do want to make enough room for the magnet and I poked a hole with my patterns with my awl so I know exactly where the center of that needs to go just like that and then I want to make sure that these go in the proper orientation so this is definitely the orientation this stem needs to be in so that magnet needs to go in there and I should just be able to superglue it I can put a little bit of this accelerant on my magnet to make sure that it wants to stay once it goes in and then I should just be able to do that here we go do that on both sides oops give me that back do that on both sides and hopefully we're good so that's that side this side goes in like that you stay in there now I can glue everything together there's no turning back after this cool and then this goes in here just like that look at that it works exactly how I planned it that never happens check it out really and it's removable I trim the middle of the this part of the pattern out so I know where to cut my bevel you need to add a bevel around this just like I did on the other ear parts I'm always careful says the man with a big bandaid on his finger now this part can go on like yeah and then this part can go here however before I can glue it down I need to remove a little bit area from the back because there's this gap here this is the edge I'm just gonna score it like yeah looks good and then I need to cut a slice off the back of this very carefully about a two millimeter slice I suppose this is something I could do on the bandsaw but I'm gonna enough freehand it today because I'm feeling wild oh I kind of broke through their wallets up there we go I'll see in that a little bit more smooth but now there's a little room for that two millimeter foam now I can stick this piece down there we go of course I need to check to make sure still works last thing to make I think is just the eyepiece right here the main part of the eyepiece here is at least like 20 millimeters thick or really just need to be thick enough so that I can attach the stem without it being proud now I do have this piece of 24 millimeter foam it's not quite thick enough so I've got some four millimeter foam to stick down to it and that'll make 128 millimeter chunk I think anywhere around thirty millimeters will be about fine and you can glue any number of different thicknesses of foam together to get there it's kind of hard to tell but the front of this there's a there's a V I don't how to explain it but I'm gonna remove a little material on the front of this right there and right around there yeah that's about well good I can clean that up with a rotary tool there we go that's what we're going for right there next bit is this little inner sort of bit here looks like in the reference it's a different material well I'll just paint it something different so I'm going to Dremel that all the way on both sides [Applause] to really highlight that edge from that bevel I'm gonna score it we got a really sharp knife and I'm only going down about a millimeter into the surface I'm going all the way around the outline of this bevel back to where it meets on this little trench and then the magic happens that's one of my very favorite tricks just score it and hit it with a heat gun this little foam piece is the last part of our eyepiece and I'm just gonna superglue that little buddy right down there there we go and then the stem can be attached I'm gonna use superglue for this as well need to make sure this is on the bottom it goes there I'm I'm saying this as much for your benefit as mine just so I know for sure that's how it's gonna be lots of superglue I also have this superglue accelerant that should kick it off as soon as it touches down so that we can get on with our lives here we go high piece rangefinder looks like there's a couple of little holes in the front of this thing and I just have this little round cutting bit and I'm gonna carve those out superfast that'll do perfect now 99% of his life bobafet leaves his thing up but when he needs to know how far something away is from his face he's got his rangefinder this part here I think is all done and ready for sealing but the rest of the helmet needs a little more attention to detail before we can seal it this piece of 2 millimeter foam I stuck on there is a little proud so I can remove some of that just have a sharp knife to handle most of it and then obviously this part of the bottom is a little bit long from that short these cuts are a little rough but that's alright I'm gonna go over this with a rotary tool to really clean it up that looks pretty great while I'm at it any exposed edge like this that's still a nice rough 90 degree cut gonna round those over to next step is heat sealing and you can see that I've glued a piece over the mouth portion temporarily that's just to hold it right in the position where I want to keep it and then when I'm heat sealing it I can do a little bit of correcting on the form that's basically the last chance to do that the heat sealing will seal the outer layer of foam this is especially useful anywhere where you've done a lot of sanding and it's really fuzzy the heat will tighten up that surface and leave a texture it's a lot more desirable for painting and for further sealing whoa hold on I almost forgot to put the dent on his helmet Boba Fett has this iconic dent right there on the helmet I'm gonna rough it in and figure out kind of where it's gonna go and I think what I'll end up doing is using the rotary tool to sculpt most of that material away and it's okay if it's a little rough because let's face it it's a wacky looking dent okay this is the the very last part I promised her a couple little triangles cut right in there with a sharp knife and then since this is foam a little spot in the middle there I can just rip it right out using something like a pair of pliers let's give this a try like that and that looks okay I think I can remove a little more yeah there we go that's the last step now now we're ready to seal it I am sealing all of my foam with Flex bond it's a PVA like Mod Podge and we bought some a while ago and I haven't used it yet so I'm giving it a shot it air dries and I'm just brushing it on with a sponge brush so that hopefully I don't get a ton of brushstrokes left over so the goal with this sealant and most sealants is really about having a lot of control over the texture of your final piece and foam tends to have sort of a foam like texture like a fuzziness to it especially anywhere like these spots here or I cut it and then I sanded it it's got that fuzziness to it so when we seal it we're taking back control of that texture we're giving it a texture that we find more desirable or more like the thing we're trying to replicate a lot of times you can sand it so we're hoping that once this dries we can sand it a little bit and again that's just to get it down to a smoother texture that's what it's all about that's what ceiling the ceiling game is really about it's about texture it's also about how paint gets absorbed so the raw foam tends to soak up more paint and can leave a look that is not desirable alright that looks pretty good for a first layer now to let it dry all right our flex bond is dried I left it overnight it still has like a sort of a rubbery feel to it like your your finger sort of sticks to it as it goes it is fully dried but because it is flexible it is hard to sand I am giving it a shot so now the there are brushstrokes and that's mostly what I want to try and get rid of I'm not gonna be able to get rid of all of them with sandpaper this type of sealing just doesn't allow for that but that's okay I'm just doing the best I can so one area might have some brushstrokes on it and then I'm gonna go over it which is some 220 grit sandpaper to sort of knock down the the highest spots and get it a little bit smoother using something like a PVA to seal your foam work is usually a really good option it's fairly cheap really quick it's non-toxic air drying it's fantastic but there are a lot of different ways you could seal your foam with varying levels of results so you could use something like epoxy to create a nice hard shell around the whole thing and then you can sand it to a super smooth finish in fact why don't we go look at the Mandalorian helmet I'm making see how that goes I'm also putting together the Mandalorian helmet and I've got patterns for this for free as well if that's the helmet you want to build I'm gonna seal this a little differently than Boba Fett though I mix up some epsilon Pro which is an epoxy and I'm gonna use that to seal the whole surface this provides a more rigid surface that can be sanded really really smooth a little more expense and a little more work but the results are pretty great our epoxy is fully cured it let it sit overnight in a warm environment it's nice and fully cured although I do think the first layer I put on was a little thin I'll probably have to put a couple on but first I'm gonna sand it and get rid of any of the really obnoxious stuff like any fuzzy bits anywhere that a little piece of my foam brush stuck down or anywhere that there are drips and I tried really hard not to get drips but sometimes it happens starting with some 220 grit sandpaper and as I scratch up the surface you can see there's a big old drip right there now I want to sand that down carefully because I don't want to chew all the way through the epoxy especially on a thinner spot up here so I will carefully work this away until it's all super smooth and flat that drip is just about gone there we go so now all I have to do is that to the rest of the helmet to get it all nice and smooth and then I think I'm gonna seal it again and sand it again [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] that looks pretty fantastic I do want to let it dry which is great cuz I gotta go work on the boba fett helmet a little bit more this is looking pretty good I didn't want to seeing it too aggressively because it's possible to sand right through the finish and then have more of the fuzzy foam below so I tried to not do that and it looks pretty good I do think though if I gave it a couple of good layers of Placid it that should help the surface texture to be a little more uniform so I'm gonna go ahead and do that I am now the proud owner of two Mandalorian helmets a foam boba fett and a foam Mandalorian helmet and it's almost time to paint them but wanted to take a moment to showcase the two different sealing techniques we used on these helmets the boba fett was done with PVA we used flex bond on this one and this one we used in epoxy it was epsilon pro the epoxy is needs to be mixed and it cures much more rigid in sandable than this guy over here then the PVA the downside to that is it's more expensive it takes a lot more time but it gives you a lot more control over the surface finish this helmet needs to be shiny so I was able to sand it pretty smooth now my boba fett helmet is a little bit different you can still see some of the texture on there that PVA while it is fast to apply and pretty cheap does not stand very well I did my best but you can still see some of the brushstrokes on it that's just kind of how it's gonna be and I'm okay with it I could have done a little better on my seams I should have used my rotary tool to say in those flush before sealing I was hoping that putting some caulk on those seams would clean them up and if I had done a couple more layers it might have worked but the one layer I put on there did not hide them perfectly but again that's okay we're gonna finish up boba fett here and he's gonna look fantastic it's time to paint Boba Fett's helmet here and it's fairly complicated so I've collected all my paints ahead of time the paints I'm using here are acrylic paints and I'm going to apply them with my airbrush it means I'm gonna have to do a bunch of different layers and a lot of different masking between all of them keep everything straight I've listed all of my colors in the order I will be applying them that way I don't get it wrong later these paints I'm not sure will cover the black plastic so the first step will be to put down one layer of primer [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] here we go [Applause] [Music] it took a couple of days of masking and airbrushing but all the sort of base colors on Boba Fett are all done while I was working on that I also painted the Mandalorian helmet first thing I did was buff all of the primer using a scotch brite pad to get it ready for paint with the surface prepped I airbrushed on a couple of good layers of a glossy black acrylic paint and I let that dry thoroughly at least overnight for the metallic finish I went for some graphite powder this is the same thing we used with our buddy Erik Jones a while back to do some swords I used a piece of paper towel to apply the powder to my black shiny surface that powder was massaged into the paint until it ended up being SuperDuper shiny I put that all over the entire helmet and then to protect that finish use a couple of good coats of aqua gloss out of my airbrush now the whole helmet looks like it's the same exact color except for this piece on the back which I painted with a slightly lighter shade of silver and that is what I ended up with a pretty shiny looking Mandalorian helmet only thing left to do is to put it in the visor and do a little bit of weathering but we'll get to that in a little bit because I have a lot more hand painting to do here on Boba Fett Boba Fett's helmet is really beat up and it's clear that it's had many layers of paint that have chipped away in various various times what I'm doing is trying to recreate that and trying to match these colors now I'm sure someone's got like a really good list of the Pantone colors for Boba Fett out there so if you're really picky you could totally just go find that but I mix these up by eye and they're close enough for me and then I'm just painting them on in the order that the deepest inner layer if this was being chipped down so I've got this sort of like tan grey that I'm doing and then other layers will go on top of it and I'm just eyeballing the placement of all of these based on my reference image down here which is to say I'm guessing a lot but that's okay on this particular project I am NOT striving for screen accuracy the next color on this part is this kind of thing Green I'm doing the same thing I'm just doing a little bit of stippling and not overlapping the layer I just did the same color is being used on the top dome here and you can see I actually ripped up some of the paint with my masking probably I didn't let it dry for long enough but fortunately this paint chipping can go right over it and no one will ever know this is the very definition of hiding your crimes in the prop making sense of the word this layer is just black and most of this is actually gonna covered by grey and silver later and this will just be sort of peeking out from behind those other colors next layer is gray and I'm going right over all the spots I did all that black on and covering most of it but leaving a little bit peeking through on the edges I realized that it never did these yellow stripes so I just knocked out a quick stencil using masking tape it's about let's say just under 8 inches long and about an inch and 1/8 tall if you want to try and recreate your own I'm gonna peel it up and see if I can get it to stick to my helmet that's pretty satisfying that's really fast it goes starts just a little bit below his dent got the stencil laid down I had to trim the top of each of these so that it would taper a little bit to lay flat but it looks pretty good then I have a stippling brush to apply my yellow paint I'm doing this to get nice even coverage but also I can miss spots on purpose to make it look like that paint has chipped off and now the fun part I got a little bleed a little bleed through there that's alright I have a little bit of isopropyl alcohol on the end of this cotton swab and I'm gently just getting rid of some of that paint that snuck under my masking tape there you want to be careful if you go too much you'll start chewing through the green but that's had like three days to dry so it's a little more durable I'm adding the silver layer now same way I'm doing everything else but I am actually looking at my reference picture because this is a little more selective than everything else so I'm just trying to not match it directly but you know kind of get an idea for where all the little dings and dents ought to go based on that reference there this this head form that I made is working out awesome this is the one that I made out of foam show yeah this thing is really really great we've got the pattern like I said over on our website at punish props calm slash shop if you want to get the pattern for just a few bucks make your own head form or make a bunch for your whole family they're super useful if you're heading over to punish Rob's calm anyway you were checking out the shop we have a bunch of other wonderful stuff over there we have a lot of good digital goods some other patterns I have a basic helmet pattern for just a couple of bucks that's fantastic we also have our ebooks and we've got premium videos for some additional learning all sorts of really great stuff over there that's worth checking out if you haven't already head on over there for just a couple minutes just to see what we've got it available because odds are we've got something that's perfect for you on your maker journey of course the dent needs Mele silver well it's not the most stunning boba fett paint job but it is the first one I've ever done it and I'm proud of it I do want to let this try I put a lot of paint on this today and then a clear coat to protect this thing because I think I want to do a dark wash over all of it to sort of mute these colors a little bit it is time for one of the last steps I'm doing a little bit of weathering just a wash over this whole thing some black acrylic paint I've got some Brown acrylic paint and I got some water basically the like this looks great and I'm really happy with it but I think the colors are just a little too vibrant and I want to mute it a little bit get a little grime down in all the crevices nice and watered down and then we smear it all over our helmet we yeah let's just cover everything this is the fun part and then I'm using a towel it's got some nice texture on it I guess dabbing it a little bit so they get a little bit of a uneven finish on there and then I can loosely wipe it away and get a little bit more than just a flat color on there there's a little bit of texture this is the part I've already weathered nice and grimy and dirty this part down here hasn't had the wash yet you can see it's just a very flat green on most of it and it's a little more vibrant a little higher color intensity so by weathering it I can knock that back a little bit make it look a little less cartoony also looks a little dirty like it's been in the real world for a long time this is coming together pretty great I'm excited this is one of my favorite steps well I have a minute I need to thank the members of the extra-credit Club the support we get from you guys literally keeps the roof over our heads and pays our employees so thank you so much for the support we've been having a lot of fun over there we do behind-the-scenes vlogs and build updates every single week that are exclusive just for the members of the extra-credit Club anyone can join you can join on patreon or right here on YouTube and that'll get you access to all the old content we've done for the last couple of years as well as anything new we make like I said we do that every week actually for this project here I was doing a lot of prototyping in the month leading up to it for example here is my prototype helmet this is what I use to figure out the pattern for this and the discussion on this helmet as it progressed was documented through our vlogs and build discussions over on the extra-credit club so if that sounds like something interesting that you want to jump in on I get a little extra from us every week and help us out big time then head on over to the link down in the description so you know how to join thanks again for the support you guys we couldn't do it without you that is it for the wash on boba fett here he looks pretty dirty but maybe he just crawled out of the Sarlacc pit I'm gonna set him aside we have a little more work to do but before then I need to add the weathering to the Mandalorian helmet and I'm gonna use a different paint on this one I have some oil paints for the weathering here these are actually water mixable oil paints which is awesome because I can thin them with water to help spread them out a little bit in my weathering process so I just have black and brown here probably mainly mostly on the brown we're basically doing the same thing as we did with the acrylic paints on boba fett but with the oil paints you have more time to work with them because they take weeks to dry but also it's got this really wonderful like waxy greasy quality that gives you a lot of opportunity to sort of manipulate this after it's been put down and it looks like grease and grime so if you want to do something mechanical that looks like it's been greased over time or accumulating liquid of some kind these oil paints are really really great and they they cling to the surface so you have control over how much you take away which i think is really great you get a really specific look I think this makes it look like metal more than the the metal paint adding a little bit of a slimy crease to it oh hey if this is the first video you've seen by us then I recommend you hit that subscribe button we do these videos all the time we also have a huge back catalog of I think some 700 videos if you want to get into it if you do subscribe hit that notification bell - that's the way you know when we have new videos coming out one of the very last things to add is the visor this is a replacement visor for masks for grinding it's tinted this is exactly what all of the Mandalorian players use and I need to cut it down to size so that it fits in there start by jamming this in there and see if we can get an idea where it should go we debated taking this part out I'm gonna try leaving that in for now I don't want these to start sliding apart I'm gonna loosely trace this there is a protective film on the visor so I can draw in it is your word and I'll trim it oversized so I don't accidentally remove too much although I did buy an extra one just using some tin snips to cut this scissors might work but they have to be some pretty beefy scissors this little piece of plastic Here I am keeping I don't know what I'll use this for maybe nothing but I'm keeping it now I'll go around there and I think that looks alright it'll fit a little better once I remove that carefully so I don't damage my paint job I would hate to have to repaint something now finally time to remove the plastic protective coating yeah since I'm gonna hot glue this down I want to scratch up the edges so that hot glue adds a little something to grab onto this glossy surface would not bond well with hot glue now the fun part it's actually some text on here so I want to make sure that's on the inside so we don't see it and I should be able to just place it in there and then position it and then start kind of tacking it down with hot glue I want to make sure it's in the right place first before I commit to putting a bunch of glue in this thing I'm gonna secure the tips first I think I am concerned with them being nice and parallel so we're gonna do that first but I'm only pulling a little bit of hot glue on just to hold it in place well I positioned everything else needs to be about there now that I'm happy with where those are lock down the sides the visor is all installed and while I'm at it I'm gonna put some foam in there just so that's a little more snug on my head this is just some upholstery foam nice and squishy stuff careful it's a lot of hot goo right there that'll go there and I'll put some of the sides too of course I need to put the visor in my Mandalorian helmet too and I want to remind you that we have patterns for free for both of these helmets you want to make your own and I recommend that you do is a really fun project if you want to participate in our 500,000 subscriber project we'll have details down below I'm thinking I'll give you till the end of the year in a 2019 to get your project done it's a fun one to like do with friends or if you're looking for a project over the holidays this would be really great and I encourage participation because this was just a ton of fun to put together and I can't wait to see how your helmet turns out all done only one thing left to do time to become Boba Fett [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] you but we need to eat but we need that but when he needs to know how far something away doing great this is the last thing we have to film today start from the top first thing I'll do is rough cut oops I flew away from me I didn't cut it homeboy let's open it with Philip I got a click out of three and this had already stuck give me that I'm gonna let this all dry and I definitely put I definitely put a fingerprint right there that look it's a good noise all done only thing one left only thing one left to do this is literally the last shot I got this bring me solo and the Wookiee again I don't I know Boba Fett doesn't say that sorry [Music]

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 4,211,617

Keywords: star wars, boba fett, mandalorian armor, how to, how to make a boba fett helmet, mandalorian helmet, boba fett cosplay, boba fett costume, the mandalorian, mandalorian mercs, mandalorian mercs helmet, mandalorian helmet build, mandalorian helmet tutorial, mandalorian helmet diy, foam, EVA foam, Foamsmith, Punished Props, Punished Props Academy, Chinbeard, Disney +, Mandalorian show, How To, tutorial, cosplay, props, helmet, foam helmet, mandalorian helmet painting, Din Djarin

Id: BSuEIMpj_S4

Length: 59min 15sec (3555 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 11 2019