22 Iconic Shoes to Know

hello everybody and welcome to this new episode of sartorial talks our second confinement episode recorded live from North Georgia in the United States of America where we are confined with Sonya since almost two months now we have good hope to be back soon to Europe but nevertheless whether we are in the USA or in Europe it doesn't matter we're going to continue no matter what broadcasting so Tony looks episode for you because you asked for it the last time we recorded a very successful episode on watches the title was to 15 most elegance watches on the market and today we're going to speak of a subject that is a passion for many of us including myself who don't speak one more time about shoes and more precisely about the most iconic shoes on the market of men's style [Music] so we're going to go through 22 models 22 shoe that I consider as staples in the recent history of men's type and we're gonna start immediately and I'd only put my glasses on and look at my little list and we're gonna start with a very very important - in my opinion probably one of the most iconic shoes of this list it's the gorge cleverly so called the Churchill and this shoe has a very very specific history because it was his name shortly after the Prime Minister of the United Kingdom Winston Churchill and Winston Churchill ask George cleverly in 1942 right in the middle of World War two mr. Churchill was so busy in his in this war time that he asked Ross cleverly who was his shoe maker it was back in the US Josh Guevara was actually working for very important and famous shoemaker probably one of the most important of all time cause Nicholas to check I think he was an austro-hungarian shoemaker was very successful in several and Joseph FLE was working for him for 3035 years and so only one mister took check retired that cleverly said a bishop so but nevertheless Winston Churchill asked Joseph Everett who was his shoe maker at Nick knows to check to conceive for him shoes that it was so busy mr. Churchill that he didn't have the time he considered he didn't have the time to lace issue so even today laced up shoes because they were very formal but even teach them without the hassle of lacing them so this is where how this model that everybody knows now was invented so you can see that the laces are fake they are not real laces it's a its elastic with a little bit of leather on it and you can just slip on because it has side glass and so this model became very this is in France we call this a lazy shoe because you don't even have to bend you just do this and you look like you have laces on your shoe so it's a very important model I think cleverly invented it for Winston Churchill since that time this model and with the side dancers has been copied hundreds and hundreds of times like almost all the shoe makers in the world but this is the original one so shoe number one the iconic Oxford job cleverly and the name of this model is the Churchill model let's move now to shoe number two and we arrived at a very very popular shoe I mean very popular in the last probably the most popular show of the last decade it's the monk strap or the double buckle so this shoe became very popular in the last decade but specifically thanks to pity because a lot of pickups at the pity wormo love to wear their double back hole of their monk strap but the brand who invented this double buckle monk strap is John Lobb in Paris I remember exactly when it happened I think it was in 1986 I remember I was in a party and I remember I was already passionate with shoes and I remember seeing a friend coming inside this party with this kind of strange shoes double buckle he was very stylish and very surprising at the same time and so the name of the model invented by Tom lab is called the William so it's originally to my knowledge the first double buckle from the rocket it was also the first collection of ready-to-wear of German up in Paris back in 1986 I take advantage of this mention of John Lobb to really explain very quickly the question we receive so often about where is the true journal because you know there's a journal up in England and legend John Lott in Paris well it's fairly easy actually it is explained in my book the Parisian gentleman that the food chapter on that because this question is coming again and again what it said the answer is very easy the love family started the business I think is an 1866 if my memory is good and they build something which was quite successful but you understand at the end of the 19th century shoemaking was only bespoke shoemaking met to measure that it said there was nothing like ready-to-wear and so John I'm open is actually in London first and then very early in the 20th century I think it's 1902 yeah it is 1902 they opened a second shop in Paris a second bespoke catalyst so one first had to be in 1866 in in London and the second Attali in 1902 in Paris and then in 1976 so 70 years later the business of bespoke was not doing well you know the mid seventies beginning of 80s he was the really the beginning of bad quality ready-to-wear literally floating the markets in France in England and everywhere around the world and so the love family decided that they didn't want to go into the ready-to-wear business but and then they couldn't sustain their shop in Paris so that decided to look for somebody to buy the paracin utterly of channel of and this is where the hairless group is coming into the picture because some members of the harmless family were clients at general in the 70s and they decided to buy the tourism activity so you understand at this time in 1976 there were General in st. John Street the original Italian doing only this book and Atelier in Paris that was also doing only this book and then in 1982 I guess John Lobb started ready-to-wear and the brown John Lobb became the property of the Herman's group so the answer is simple I'm sorry for this long explanation but it's very interesting in some of history is that John Lobb is the hermas group worldwide that is all the boutique you see all the utterly you see all the bespoke Italian Paris one of the most impressive and interesting in the world all the journal of boutiques are the property of the thermos group except one Italia Boutique bespoke only in sanctioned trip which is still the property of the lab family so that's the explanation there is no wrong bad true or untrue turn up there are ones on love and only one boutique is from the family and the rest is from the ground school let's move now to show number three and to shoot number three we arrived at something very personal to me very close to my heart because we are going to speak about Berluti and we're going to speak about the model probably through which I cut the back of the shoe passion it's the formidable superlative incredible a model called Alessandro hole cut by Berluti inference well if you've been reading my books the Parisian gentleman or even the last one sudhi a in French if you read French and it's going to be translated soon in English will tell you how later but if you read if you have read read my book for reason gentlemen you know the story that while I was well not exactly a kid I would say a young adult I was in love with the Berluti hooker but it was way too expensive for me actually if I remember well the price of a pair of very simple but very tea was more than my monthly salary when I was just out of school but I was going every Sunday and I mean I exaggerate not every Sunday but many some days I would go and look at the window and look at this incredible hole cut I've never seen this before before Berluti invented this new way of doing shoes we all love that rather classic stuff like Western churches genre you know very beautiful shoes but very classic and very conservative and Olga but if he threw something new in the plate and that's the major talent she threw something totally new she injected in the world of shoes a part of dream of desire of glamour almost that was never seen before and this should ELISA were was for me the quintessential Berluti style he was like absolutely immaculate not no pattern just a piece of leather with a cut in the middle and of course a very daring patina it's for me a staple and they will remain a staple all my life I still have a problem Alessandro in my closet so beside my selection number three of the most iconic shoes in the world is the Alessandro portrait by Berluti in Paris and we stay ability for true number four because even if I don't wear lovers very often I must admit that the undie lover viability is an absolute wonder the name Andy comes after the name of the late Andy Worrell the very famous artist who one day came to Olga Berluti and asked her to craft for him or to design for him some kind of daring of course I have the world and daring patina for a penny loafer because it is a penny loafer with an apron as you can see it's a beautiful shoe and so she did so and of course this model took the name of Andy world so it's the Andy probably among the most beautiful lovers in the world and it's our selection number for now we move to our shoe number five and it's another shoe well I will say a lot of time close to my heart because you know I'm passionate by with shoes my grandfather was a coal miner so I'm I'm pretty much born with this passion but it's true that the shoe number five which is the church very famous Derby brub brafton by church is the first real I would say this first I don't you I was able to buy for myself well I can confess to you now I bought is I don't if you say second hand or second foot if we say exactly but it was not unusual because it was too expensive for me but I managed to find one second hand or second foot in good condition and I have been wearing this pair of therapy as you can see it's a the typical derby with its abroad it's a beautiful leather and well for the sake of history churches was back in these years in the radar of all the shoe lovers and then it disappeared a little bit at the end of the 1990s because it was acquired by the Prada group and then church he started to look a little bit more into the fashion world and this is why people like well who are less interested but nevertheless this that I bought secondhand the grafton buy shirts it's a great mother and guess what I wore it probably three or four years of course I maintained it very carefully and I was able to resell it and believe it or not I probably lost 20% on it so don't do it if you can't keep your shoes for yourself but when you are passionate like ours back in the years I didn't have the money to buy new shoes well I was leaving my passion without having a big word and this is a very interesting statement because I know so many young men and young gentlemen who are passionate with custom clothing with the sartorial tops with shoes with beautiful short anything it's not only a matter of the size of what you're worth if today you want to be elegant you can with the private sales with the sales with all the offers offerings from the market you can dress very elegantly for not such a big budget and of Paddington's with same friends and of Brackett sorry the word bracket didn't come to mind now we move to shoe number six and we stay in England and we stay actually in the same area where John lab is located where churches is located is close to Northampton it's a place in in in the United Kingdom where all the important factories and other years of shoemaking are located in the northern sunshine and we go to one of the institution of the beautiful British Conservative shoe it's called Edward green and the model for in my pen that represent the the best Edward green is called the cap toe Oxford Chelsea the Chelsea Oxford with a capital by Ted Robin so as you can see this is a very conservative very formal this is the epitome of I would say the the Britishness in shoes nothing fancy nothing to attract the eye but the proportion are beautiful the design is beautiful it's extremely discreet but at the same time it's extremely refine and of course in terms of making a drag wins in Northampton remains one of the references and on the market for the quality of the makin believe me I've been we've been studying a lot this and even my friends to find Jimenez who is one of the most impressive dis bookmaker in the world can tell you because he's been repairing as a convener hundreds and hundreds even thousands of shoes and he will tell you that a drug one is among the best in terms of construction in terms of reliability and in terms of durability so it's a real staple for any man gentleman's closet is the Evergreen Chelsea Capital Oxford and issue number six for shoe number seven well we come back to France and we come back to a friend of mine this is not a secret that I'm a friend with beer cocktails since a long time we produced a beautiful film together I have been following his work since a long time I've been writing a chapter on him also and of course the model for me that really care a little bit like a liability shook the world of man style and man shoes with Alessandro I think that Piatti himself also shook the world with his fantastic to eyelet model called Africa look at this beauty the are cub is a derby and what a peacock did with this model with two eyelet only on the Derby nobody derbies it's more like an outdoor shoe I mean how chic but outdoor more a little bit less formal than the whole Kurt or then Oxford would has no no side you know it's just directly cut for the lacing but with reducing the number of eyelets to to and doing this piece of leather on top of it it makes something really different and the akka of cocktail has been a very an enormous success worldwide and is still if my informations are good is still a very very important percentage of the sales of cocktail in the world akka because now you can have it with a backer or you can have it in different exotic scheme you can have it also in suede it's it's it's a fantastic model and it's been I think I have two three pairs of akka in my closet and it's um disputable one of the most beautiful shoes in the world so shoe number seven the ARCA double-eyelid the Pierre Corneille influence for shoe number eight and nine we stay in France but we're not in Paris anymore we're gonna go to the merge which is the center of France and we're going to go to another institution I think it's the biggest shoe company in France and one of the biggest in Europe is the as the company called a and Western so please don't ask me what J M means it doesn't mean James and Morgan it doesn't mean jean-michel it doesn't mean JAMA nobody knows it's a secret and even if you ask the people from Western the founders has no Jay know em in there are name so nobody will really knows maybe it's just because it sounded nice to the hair that they decided to call him J M Western but it doesn't mean anything but Western means a lot to us specifically the shoemaker's the the shoe lovers sorry because it's one of the most incredible shoe maker that we have on the planet for durability and the seriousness of how the things are crafted at Western they never take one shortcut it's always made according to the gospel of shoemaking and the shoe number the first of the two shoes I want to show you the first one of course is the very very famous loafer the name is over the vest is a strength I missed it so number is called the Laufer 180 in front they also call it the Mikasa 180 so it's this penny loafer probably the most I would say the most famous pending offer in the world okay I must be honest with you it's not it doesn't fit me very well because I'm of I would say normal height I'm tall I'm 5 foot Sonya how tall am I 5 foot 11 5 5 foot 10 thank you because I still have I'm struggling between the metric system and imperial system I'm 5 foot 10 so that is a reasonable height but I noticed that when I put on a penny offer online on my feet it has a tendency to shorten a little bit method so this is why I'm not an adopter of this kind of shoe but I understand that people love this because it's easy to use it's very versatile this is the kind of shoe you can remove under your desk when you are in the meeting this is why people love it you don't need to ban to lace it so it's a beautiful the story behind the penny loafer well there's a maybe it's an urban legend but I love urban legends and I love to try to understand what is behind the words always it's one of my passions also and penny loafer penny it refers according to this legend probably true in my opinion as the the coin the penny and it was them it was used by the students back in the years when they were away from home going to college to universities they can put a penny in the brittle of their offer not to forget to call their parents once the week because you know I don't know made many of you don't didn't know this era I did and I lived this era well you have to call your parents with a telephone booth because cell phone didn't exist so that's the legend that a penny offer is because the student were putting a penny on the brittle of them from their shoes so this was shoe number eight is an icon indisputably an icon of the penny loafer 180 by JM Western in front and number nine we stay at Jamison but this time we go to a shoe that I adore it's for me the epitome of the outdoor show something very sturdy but very dutiful at the start the same time and in these shoes this show uncaps late for me probably the most difficult thing to do in shoemaking norwegian stitching all made by hand this is of course the beautiful derby shuts hunting i don't know if they translated hunter hunting in English but Shas is the name of the model in France by JM Western so it's not exactly a shoe to wear with a formal suit because it's a little bit more sturdy and puffy but this shoe I bought this one that was my official I bought new see how I managed to do it at last but and I've been wearing this shoe another five or six years and one more time I don't know why I'm doing this I resolved it to buy some new shoes because I was still at the beginning of my suit or no class but nevertheless the Derby shots I think it's the last shoe that is entirely crafted by hand at the wonderful Factory of JM Western in limos then it's a wonderful a wonderful work of art so choose choose number nine the JM Western delicious with this very specific knowledge and stitching and now we arrived to shoot number ten I hope you having fun and taking a lot of pleasure because I could speak to you about shoes for hours and hours don't worry I'm not gonna take hours but I want to continue now with what we can say it's an iconic song true number ten it's by an American company called Alden that many of you know if you are interested in shoes and it's a boot the model is called the 405 400 0-5 but normally people call this shoe the indeed booked and why do we call it the Indy boot and simply because it was named after Indiana Jones know Harrison fought for the free Indiana Jones asked to have a boot I think that the little stories that the stylists of the film wanted him to wear some Red Wings boots but Arison thought had a problem with his feet and he really insisted of having issues for the film made by the brand of Alden and so of course they made it it became a very famous so it's more like a tanker outside boot you know this is a this is a very interesting more casual but you know it's more difficult to wear with the suit but for the weekend so fantastic with n of course it is pretty much indestructible and this is a staple in every man's closet the in the boot model 4:05 by Adam the very boot that Indiana Jones Harrison Ford was wearing during the three films of Indiana Jones now we move to shoe o / boot number 11 and we arrived in Bologna Bologna in Italy Bologna is a very beautiful city less known than napal the net CR or Rome of course or Milano but it's a very I would say underrated city beautiful city was one of the most if I think it's the most ancient the first university in Europe was founded among the first in Europe was founded just after year 1000 in Bologna it's a beautiful city and in this city there's a family that we adore with Sonia well we love a lot of people because for our books and our blog and ours so your talks channel we've been travelling and meeting a lot of them but this family is special for us and I explain you what first of all is the banoffee family we love the Bonifay specifically because this actually is a very special place can you believe that every person into a Thalia is more or less related to somebody else in the ratalie there are brothers cousins brother-in-law in-laws and so I don't know if everybody but most of the people working in this actually are related to each other so it creates on some kind of her well we can say family ambience to say the least with the good size of it and probably the bad sides of it because inside family you can fight a little bit more directly than if you are we strangers but nevertheless this is an adorable Atelier and the shoe that make them very famous and that we adore and it's the contrary of the lazy shoe of mr. Winston Churchill it's what we call the button Balmoral boots so what is a button Barbara boot is this beauty with buttons and with this barmal roll cut the Balmorra means that the cut goes all the way to the back of the shoe if you want to put on your button barber or boot you will need probably I would say 15 minutes every morning because you have to button every button and not only that but you don't even do it with your fingers you need to use this little how do you say that darling crush is it a crush or no we say in France it's called t-butyl it release to pull the buttons it's a little crochet like that it's a little hook here I was looking for the word so sorry we live Sonja oysters behind the camera so it's a little hook that you gonna use if somebody knows the real work of this till Bhutan in French please put it in the comment section and so you don't have to use this little device to do so it's not easy to put on sir but when you have those shoes on believe me this is what we call a statistic statement immediately you are stepping out of the crowd of course it's nuts for everybody you have to be able to pull this off and if you look very comfortable or ready to wear a tie or pocket square it might be a little bit let's say too quick to go directly for this kind of shoe but if you are so totally experienced and you want to push it a little bit further these boots are absolutely gorgeous and believe me people are gone it's a I would say a converse a conversation piece you say in America people will talk about you boots because they are absolutely gorgeous so shoe number 11 the button balmoral boot by the Enzo banoffee in Bologna now we move to shoe number 12 and we stay in the boot arena with a very famous model called Chelsea model made by a very famous company called Crockett & Jones so Crockett & Jones same area as Edward Greene samurai as germinal same area as I said in Northamptonshire probably one of the biggest factory very serious very very serious shoes they can do everything but I selected for this selection the Chelsea boot model so the Chelsea boot model was popularized in the 1960 by the likes of the Beatles and The Rolling Stones it was a kind of a chic but easy to wear a boot you know same thing site cassettes in elastic you don't well you have to help it a little bit with the back but you just sleep on your boots and when the the leather is all ready break broke broke in we say that broke in its it's become easy so it's the Chelsea boot Mick Jagger was always wearing his Chelsea boots so it's a very it's a nice shoe and when it's what is interesting with this Chelsea bootie that you can have it you can worry during the weekend the more casual manner but you can also wear it with it was a suit because when you put on your trousers above you don't see really the gussets on the side and it becomes a beauty for almost a whole cast so and I must admit that the Chelsea 3-bike rocket engine car engine does execute marvelously this Chelsea boot though this is show number 12 the Chelsea boots I think it's Chelsea three by Crockett & Jones in England and for shoe number 13 we stay in the Northamptonshire will be a little bit outside with Hampton two little city called Catrin to meet our friend Tony casino and Dean Durling and say our friends because we know Tony we know Dean we know these people we've seen them starting 10 or 15 years ago I think Tony Garcia know and they both work for other great company I know Tony was in charge of the bespoke at a drug grant so he is a guy from the shoe is the man is born in that and even if it's a young company I think they deserve already they they are to be listed in this list because what they bring into the plate of shoemaking specifically of British filmmaking is a little bit of refinement I don't say that Crockett and Joan an arrogant are not refined their are refined but they're very conservative Gaziano and Gerling put a little bit of glamour and it's a little bit more refined a little bit more elongated and the murder that I adore which became one of their iconic model is called the st. James st. James - actually it's an Adelaide so well in front we say it's a we call it a you throat it's a youthful because you see close to the less you have this you it's a semi broad but we call it in England a delight I have no idea what if you know why we can be some Adelaide just tell me in the comment section and and you can see with this shoe that Gatineau and burning are doing more its most its sleeker its more refined its thinner even than a normal English one so this is why I like their brawn and I like this model which is for me the quintessential elegant model for a gentleman so I will show number 13 the marvellous beautiful son James to buy gas and opened early in Kettering United Kingdom for shoe number 14 we're gonna go to firenze Florence in Italy what beautiful city this is the place where we go with Sonia while between 1 and twice a year for pity woman but this is also the place where a very interesting shoemaker was born and died unfortunately in 2012 I speak of course about I mean of course if you are into shoes and luxury sure you've heard the name of Stefano Berber and it was a great loss for them for the industry to lose this man and 2020 was young he died he was 49 year old and he was very he has a huge reputation it was not your normal guy around the corner it was a very strong personality but he was known also for his generosity and - and for opening the door to many shoemakers to be or to be shoemakers in order to help them to train them it was a very generous man I know my friend Justine Fitzpatrick the shoe snob has been trained as stefanova man I know that Stefan Jimenez probably my favorite boot maker in the world was the head of the Italia of 70 - Norman vallarta one day pushed the door off of a Mario sorry of of Stefano boomer Mario was his brother if they are working together back in two years and Stefano bellman said yes of course you can you can learn the shoe making just here is here are some tools here some other and work and also I know this famous actor Daniel day-lewis is that right time we say Daniel day-lewis yeah this famous actor wanted to make sure and Stefano Burma told him not to make sure so this guy has been really opening his door in his heart and out to many people and he created back in the years I think it was his first last and this is the famous two-tone Oxford and the original one that I love was in black and red and this is a gorgeous shoe that will stay in mouthing Englishman and by the way the company is still running it was been bought by a family we know the owner Tommaso Melanie I think you're doing a pretty decent job to keep the legacy alive and the models by Stefan River are still going very strong and this model two-tone originally in black and red but also as you can see it you can have it now in different kind of colors it's for me one of a staple it was kind of a daring this is what we like we all liked in Stefano Berber it was probably not the best shoemaker around but it was one of the most daring one he was it was all about freedom of speech he wanted to create shoes for tomorrow we wanted to to put a little bit of audacity in everything around the shoe for man and II did and what he's done will be remembered and his tea program but but a lot of people so shoe number 14 the beautiful iconic two tones oxford by stefano ephemeral influence now let's move to to number 15 and for shoe number 15 we go we stay in italy but we go south of Italy in Cassandra no you don't know what Cassandra no is I tell you where it is it's a it's a suburb of napal Napoli in Napoli you have the town and then you have two cities one little city called cousin or DiNapoli which is the town of tailors and then you have Cassandra know which is a little town close to castle nuovo which is where the factory of my friend Paulus kaffarah is located paluska Ferrara is doing beautiful shoes for a number of big brands but also now for himself a lot more and more and as somewhere in New York he was doing a trunk show by the way with our friend from South Korea Sabino and Salvatore Atika also for the shirts and it has a lot of success now in the USA why because his crafting incredible shoes that are at the same time stylish and incredibly sturdy and the shoe that I love and I and I think has become an iconic shoe in men's style of the last 10 years is this show it doesn't have a name it's the I call him the Norwegian stitched hole cut with reverse stitching that is to say all the pattern that you see on the shoe are not on the shoe there are so reverse from the inside of the shoe this is a very complex thing but I think that aesthetically it's very very interesting almost jaw-dropping when you see this kind of food and the comfort is unprecedented this is why I selected this shoe has been those who have been wearing the most in the last 10 years and these are absolutely indestructible yet extremely elegant shoes is shoe number 15 the Norwegian all cut with River stitching but parents kaffarah in napal or shoe number 16 let's move now to Romania to Austria for the shroom and Romania for a factory and of course we move I say of course because if you are into shoes you know that when we speak when we say Romania you think about st. Crispin's st. crisping being by the way the Saint patron in the Catholic religion the same pattern of the code Vedas and the covers and every October we celebrate the st. Crispin's a Kripa inference but st. Christine is also a brown owned and managed by our friend Phillip car and they are doing by hand only beautiful made-to-measure shoes in Romania everything is done by hand and the specificity of Saint Crispian is that you don't have to have a serie of so they can craft shoe one by one strictly by hand in Romania and this is absolutely from formidable the one should we select it because of course sankrityayan can craft any kind of shoes to the perfection that the one we particularly like and basically my wife was attracted to this design is their interpretation of the chukka boot so the chukka boot originally was maybe not invented but probably popularized by clocks back in the 1950s or 60s but you see the interpretation and the same crisping of this chukka boot is absolutely gorgeous you see the proportion the curves the design makes it a very distinctive shoes and I believe that this shoe has all its place in this list of the most iconic shoes of the last decades so shoe number 16 said crisp and chukka boots for shoe number seventeen let's go now to the beautiful city of Barcelona in Spain and here are we're gonna meet our friend Norman Gillett I'm sorry I said our friends because yes we have a lot of friends in the shoe industry Norman started career as a shoemaker very fairly recently I would say 10 maybe 15 years ago it was not it was not his destiny I mean it was probably his destiny but he studied as a lawyer as far as I know and he decided very late in his career after thirty-year-old which is quite a kind of late to decide what you want to do that he will be a shoemaker but the problem is that when you want to be a shoemaker and when you are passed 30 year old you don't know where to go how can you how can you learn this craft and then as I told you a little bit earlier in this program Norman Villa table packed his suitcase is originally from Argentina Patagonia actually and so he decided to come to Europe he knocked at the door Stefano barrel and sit there and try and learn how to make shoes and what we liked specifically on Norman vallarta of course is a good dis book shoemaker of course he can they can craft any kind of shoe but he managed very quickly to throw something totally new in the plate and this is why we selected him among this most iconic shoes of the last three decades and we selected specifically his model called the Deccan Chelsea boot why because this deck on Chelsea boots is an I don't unidentified walking object we've never seen a shoe like that and I've been on you know analysing commenting writing about shoes since a decade and a half now and this is the first time I was really impressed by the new design you can see it's a kind of a hybrid shoe between a boot with gussets elastic gussets on the side and a double eyelid derby so you don't really know if it's a boot if it's a derby if it's both and me when I am the first para Norman did for me was in Canada and reddish patina very daring patina and I wanted to show my shoes because when you put on your trousers on top of the shoes you don't see the two eyelets so I decided to ask my friend Gigi the quarry Napoli to craft for me a trousers the trouser of a suit tread very high so that I can showcase my shoes I'm sorry it's a little bit of a weakness but I wanted people to see this kind of a issue that we've never seen before so it's a beautiful pair of shoes it's not for everybody it's a caliber statistics technology beautiful and for me it's very daring and it's refreshing to see some innovation like that in the world of shoes and Norman vallarta has to be credited for that he is a very very talented and creative would make a shoe number 17 the deccan chef's it would show shoe number 17 the deccan Chelsea boot Norman Valenza in Barcelona now for soon number 18 and 19 because it's two shoes of the same shoemaker we're going to move to honor a Budapest Hungary is a beautiful country Budapest is a wonderful city on the river Danube of course very famous but also very famous for shoe making because there's a real school of shoemaking mean Hungary and one of the most famous model is called the beta tester Phillip Esther so from Budapest is very puffy shoes have not really much time but there's one shoemaker here whose name is very well known in the world of shoe lovers his name is Laszlo vos and he created a very interesting line of shoes back into his eyes I think as Laszlo of us mr. vos also I was the first to write Oh or at least to write a very popular book on how to craft shoes I think he published this book in the 1990s and it's still very relevant so if you want to know everything about how to craft a shoe by hand I think you can steal probably second hand find this book by the Last of Us the first model I love by las velas is the his interpretation of spectator shoes so respectable shoe I'm not going will not go into very complex explanation but they say it's a bicolor shoe normally it's a wingtip rub in biker and las navas has been pushing this very far with bike on our spectator but also trickle of spectator and is very very good at that and this is the first time my eye was attracted by a las cuevas suit it was specifically by a spectator shows it's a beautiful shoe made by a Brad shoemaker this is show number 18 spectre-2 shoe by las Flores and shoe number 19 we stay in angery we stay at last of us and we look at his austerity bro well that austerity bug is a kind of a semantic curiosity because normally when you speak about a grub you speak about a shoe is perforation specifically broguing means perforation and when we speak about an austerity bra it means abroad without perforation it's a kind of a strange it's an oxymoron it's a curiosity I don't if it's an oxymoron by the way it is an oxymoron and it's a curiosity because it says abroad without bragging but whatever but you understand it has the shape of a bribe with this wingtip but it doesn't have the Federation and it creates something very interesting very elegant none ostentatious at all and a little bit more formal than a real broad with perforation because the rule in shoes is the less you have perforation the more your shoe is formal the more you have perforation or broguing the more your shoe is casual and of brackets or shoe number 19 this beautiful austerity broad by las navas is in angery now we arrive to the last three issues number twenty twenty-one and twenty-two well I can confess something to you I recorded this episode in French last week and I only put on my list 20 shoes and then I received a lot of command that was a good success and many people were saying well I should add this one on this one and then I couldn't resist to add two more shoes that was not originally on my list but now I've been listening to you have been reading your comments and noting you were right they needed to be underneath so let's go first of all to the shoe number 20 the normal shoe number 20 of my list I was I'm gonna do something I rarely do I think I never did actually is to go and look a little bit on on the fashion side of things and I don't like that as if you know me you know I'm not really comfortable in this arena but I must admit that there's one model that has been invented by your fashion company Gucci which is called the horse bit for very famous well not my cup of tea instantly but I must admit today is an iconic shoe and most of people now actually they call it the Gucci loafer well it wasn't my kind of shoe because I don't like the fact to show a logo you know as something as a status but we have to admit that this shoe is iconic for many people you can wear it without socks during the summer I can confess to you I tried or I didn't have buy a Gucci one soft offer Hospital offer like that by cocktail and I've been wearing them it's called the can I guess I've got it I've been wearing that but then without socks it's a confession because I I speak very softly because I was wrong they want to say what is this fashion of people wearing their suit without socks it's ridiculous but I must admit when it's really hot it's kind of cool to have soft offer so end of bracket but shoe number 20 iconic of course is the hospital offer by Gucci in Italy and now we move to the two shoes that were not in my friends list but I've first one the first one I forgot and it was it's really a really and the second one was indicated but one of our readers and followers so true number 21 is from our friend from bum Tony bond Tony is in Monty Genaro the treadle of shoemaking in the March region in Italy and this shoe is called a brie on Tina actually this is the first Dom Tony shoe I have and in my opinion is the most iconic they do it's a single buckle but it's a mix between a single monk strap back on and under the mantra under the buckle you have side cassette with elastic so it's a kind of a mix between a monk strap shoe and a single buckle and an easy shoe like the Churchill at the beginning it's beautiful it's very distinctive I love this pair of shoe and is my selection number 21 the brie on Tina Shubh fabulous beautiful by their superlative house of Don Tony in non-tech raro in the marche region of italy and two finish this selection we're going to move to shoe number 22 that was not in my original list but and we go back to the American brown Alden and their interpretation of the tassel over I had one pair of tassel loafer in my life I was in my early 20s maybe I had the fantasy to become a New York banker or whatever but and then after I was not a big fan of it well globally I'm not a big fan of reference but this model by Arden is absolutely iconic you've seen it at the feet of your banker of your insurance broker or this is a it was a staple for business man it's beautifully done and I must admit that Alden is executing the tassel lover probably better so the tassel love rice is a staple in in gentleman's wardrobe and I must admit that the interpretation of the tassel fee by Alden is one of the most famous and iconic in the world so shoe number 22 and that will be the last of our list to tassel loafer by the house of Alden in the United States of America I have a last message for you as you probably know I've been writing a book conciliate shoes in English it's a massive book I don't have it with me now because we can't travel with it is too big but I'm going to show you a few pictures of him on the screen just to let you know because many of you have asked us have pre-ordered the book because we are preparing a version in English for the foursome sometime during the winter we don't know exactly when but if you want to be among the first to pre-order the English version of this book it is possible you just have to send an email to my email you go at provision gentlemen dot a far as it is written on the screen and you just said that you would like to be put on the list of the pre-orders of the English translation of power book this book is a beautiful work that we did with my wife Sonya and with my photographer indeed Julia you can look on our channel as one show specifically dedicated to this book it showcased 24 among the best this book shoemaker in the world and some of these shoes in these books are more works of art than really shoes so one more time if you want to be included in the list of the pre-orders of the first thousand of this book you just have to send me an email you go at Parisian gentleman dot F francais you want to have to reserve and to be on the list for the pre-order of the the book shoes because the name will be shoes as simple of that in in English and you will receive a payment link and you will receive hopefully you book during the winter thank you for listening thank you for supporting thank you for subscribing thank you for commenting we are so happy to have you our confinement has been difficult on some side but at the same time very exciting because we've been producing some things were literally live I mean there's no filter between you and us and we are very happy of all your support and all the messages of support that we receive thank you my friend and see you for the next episode of sartorial talks bye bye [Music]

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 127,616

Keywords: Alden, george cleverley, john lobb, double monk, berluti alessandro, berluti wholecut, wholecut shoe, andy loafer, church grafton, edward green, corthay arca, jm weston, weston 180, alden boots, alden indy, indiana jones boots, balmoral, crocket and jones, chelsea boots, gaziano and girling, stefano bemer, paolo scafora, st crispin, chukka boots, laszlo vass, lazslo vass, spectator shoes, gucci loafer, austerity brogue, best shoes 2020, best shoe brands, iconic shoes

Id: sn528sBg_fA

Length: 49min 0sec (2940 seconds)

Published: Sat May 23 2020