🇬🇧 IFSC World Championships Moscow 2021 || Women’s Boulder final

so all right justice [Music] [Music] [Music] hello and welcome to moscow for the ifsc world championships tonight it's the turn of the women six athletes are out there battling for the gold medal and a chance to be crowned world champion my name is matt gru and i'm here with sophia yokoyama welcome back to the commentary box hi thank you for having me so this awesome 3d rendered wall we get to check out all the angers and sofia we were down on the mats earlier on yeah there are some good boulders out there tonight yeah it looks really fun they've set a good set of boulders right there and that is the dimensions on that wall overhanging sections slabby bits it's going to be fun three and a half meters quite sure what that's representing but there are the boulders four boulders starting off with a slab on the left more physical in the middle and then a slab that isn't the slab on the right hand side but that is the slab that is a slab starts off in some volumes teaches over to the left more physical there on that climb and then a big jump thugginess the eret like feature and this is the slab that isn't a slab because those volumes make it not a slab and sofia challenging for them tonight it's going to be super interesting to see what happens this is a little summary of the semi-finals sophia you were 12th in this close to the cut but not quite there talk to me about some of these boulders we're watching oh that's my hat the borders were really fun and like i think the root centers did a really good job with the amount of tops that were made and yeah they were just super fun to climb and like the progression and all of the borders was super fun to watch too and yeah i had a really good time yeah it did look fun out there that's camilla she's in the finals what a performance from her you could see how much that meant to her natalya grossman coming in in strong strong form tonight perhaps the favorite but as we know in these finals anything can happen and there is natalia super struck so athletes were close those heartbreaking moments so before we continue there was an incident during the semi-finals i want to read out a statement from the ifsc the international federation of sport climb we'd like to deeply apologize to hannah faber austria climbing and all the athletes and the small climbing community for the images that were broadcasted today during the women's boulder semi-final the rpc condemns the objectification of the human body and will take immediate action in order for it to stop and to protect the athletes and look on a personal level i'm sitting up here in the commentary box we're watching some of these images i am a passionate passionate climber and that kind of shot doesn't have any place in our sport it's disappointing to see and we'll be working very hard to make sure something like that does not happen in the future there's no place for it in our sport so sofia that being said let's talk about the athletes out there tonight because so much training and dedication comes into this moment this is the chance to be a world champion no it's super fun and like especially not all top athletes are here right now so having these six finalists three of them are kind of new to the to the like world championship final and yeah like you said anything can happen and it's just going to be super interesting to see our things your teammate is in this final and i said to you before we started please don't try to be uh you know neutral in this i want you to be as biased as possible look you're with her every single day pretty much yeah what's her feelings no i mean she was like super psyched she didn't know she had made it at the time and we all went running to her like you've made finals and she just like burst into tears and it was just so like amazing to watch and just like tell her because she's been training so hard and we train all together in the same gym and well a couple days a week and yeah it's just i know how strong she is and i know that she can do super well and it was awesome to see her be able to show what she can do andrea will be competing later on this is a little video from earlier on just before we went live the athletes get time to observe the routes check it out see if they can piece together the beta on offer here tonight that is our bouldering wall right in the center of the stadium lead wall to the right qualifying routes for the next couple of days set up and ready and just to the left of that bouldering wall is the speed wall and that finals was the other night and while you're here look go back and watch the para climbing finals took place last night because uh i'm addicted to power climbing frankly it's incredible it's awesome to watch yeah it's amazing what they can do absolutely so do go and see that if you've missed it but right now women's bouldering finals it's a separate event usually these are sort of combined in world cup events we get the men and the women and it's just about the women tonight yeah yeah men climb tomorrow [Music] there is stache she is so excited to be in this final brook rabbittoo she had a shaky moment early on and then just pulled a special out of the bag two flashes in a row of the boulders and the top of the final one things were tight though yeah the last border there is your teammate andrea she comes out onto the stage looking very calm at the moment yeah i mean no pressure for him elena representing the cfr is on stage front of her home crowd looks emotional already camilla from italy four tops for her just underneath the next lady in the competition natalia grossman who he's on what looks like some pretty dominant form at the moment yeah this year she's been super strong it's been awesome to watch her climb now we mentioned athletes missing obviously yanya gombra would usually expect to be in the final yeah she's taking a break deserve a break of course what does that mean though because as you said it opens the door a little bit for someone else to come in here yeah i feel like because there's also mijo and akio aren't here and usually there a lot of the time in the finals and it's just it allows younger and other athletes to just like come up and show what they've got and which is also what i find awesome like right now like i said you've got three athletes who've never made finals before on the stage right there and it's just gonna like it's one hell of an experience it really is yeah we shouldn't remember i mean january isn't unbeatable as well these athletes out there always earn their places natalia's beating yanya you know it's like just because she's not here it doesn't really mean anything but psychologically perhaps as you said just allows people yeah so these are the boulders we are very excited my name is matt groom and i'm joined by sophia yokoyama and we are here for the women's final for the bouldering in the world championships oh that sounds good doesn't it yeah so that is our boulders red black yellow and blue the holes used on the walls and look if you are a bouldering expert forgive me for this moment i want to explain to our new viewers because obviously the olympics attracted a lot of people to our sport the aim of boulders to get to the top of the wall there it is indicated by that white circle with the word top in it about halfway through a rope there's a zone that's a bonus hold and you start down at the bottom of the wall so you climb start from the bottom climb to the top and you want to do it in as few attempts as possible that's the basic rules there's a lot more to it but i don't want to put people off who know this stuff already yeah but it's like some people who are watching the olympics are like to get climbing into the olympics they're like oh but it's super complicated i'm like i mean i don't really know how gymnastics works but like how is that more easier to understand than yeah it's just you got to top the border gymnastics i never know like when an athlete does something good or when they do something bad it all looks kind of the same yeah like it's all pretty impressive and i guess it's you could also easily be biased although here it's like either you make it or you don't yeah that is true not hard to understand yeah it's a points game isn't it but if there are any rules along the way we'll keep you updated that is our artsy shot we've been looking at all week i watched the man arrange that i don't know i think he could have just done a little better with that i think the chalk bag it could just be some more artistic elements it looks a little dance doesn't it but because where is that i have no idea as well i'm looking out for it but it does it has somewhere in the stadium but it does nicely set the scene here shows us that we're in the climbing community exactly we are here to watch some spectacular action here tonight that wooden volume looks beautiful on the wall so the wooden holes are beautiful on the wall there is friction on it and there's a lot of dual texture holds here tonight and you can see them shining there in the light how slippy are those parts super slippy and i feel like some root setters are getting like more and more mean where they'll put the dual texture side as of your foothold instead of like the friction part and you've just got to like trust yourself more and more but it's super slippy even with your hands during the youth finals i root said the first time i've seen it put a totally no texture hand hold it i reckon that's the future you know i reckon yeah but it's also stressful like you know you can hold the hold but just like a certain brusque movement could just like throw you off because it's just so slippy so stash ago is out onto the stage each athlete will climb separately four minutes up on the clock in order to work these boulders out and stash it i was sitting outside reading a book when she came into the stadium and she is so excited to be here tonight yeah it's so fun to watch her climb like she just gives it all and you can see in her facial expressions that she's super happy to be here and wants to do her best it's a big jumpy start pressing with the right hand and then she'll bring it in to match that's how we read the water at first we did we're experts oh nice stash immediately strong into the zone that is the zone hold with the orange line on it zone written so like typically here the orange tape touches the hole so that the hole is considered the zone hole and not the volume compared to other holders that we'll see this is the big jump and see we did read this differently i saw it as a static move and you were like no definitely not and i think you're right yeah it is a dyno i feel like static could be possible you just gotta trust your feet so much that like dino just may be easier yeah it would be such a big lock off with the left wouldn't it press down all the way out to the right so stash it skin problems yeah i know struggle's a bit with skin and she's just taping up expect her to probably take that off towards the end of the competition it doesn't matter by that stage but you can't bleed on the wall and obviously when your skin is thin it's harder to climb yeah these are new holes the texture the friction is like super new and it just takes off that layer of skin is that i mean when you're climbing a semi-final doesn't qualify how much are you thinking about things like that a lot especially like you've got to come in with good skin because like i didn't come in with super good skin and i have no skin left and i was taping my fingers during warm up i'm like okay i don't need this finger i guess right now i was taping it throughout the borders just to like be sure to not bleed because when you bleed and have to put tape on it's just it makes it also a lot harder just cuts down on the friction it's like using a texture all the time so stash it number three and you'll notice a very very expressive she'll talk to herself she'll talk to the audience and we've got microphones right up on the stage so you should be able to hear everything she's saying yeah how's your serving don't understand it's a mystery for us what she's saying but she did make that first go like look super easy and now you can more kind of see the struggle yeah she's just telling herself to calm down a little bit she's got a minute 20 on the clock she has to complete the boulder within that time she's already got the zone she's really one jump away if she can get this first move again yeah and i guess it's also scary with the jump being the last move you're at least like four and a half meters off above the ground and that's a very good point because stasha she had that devastating knee injury yeah a couple of years ago and every time i commentate with her she's cringing next to me when she watches high moves like this psychologically must be super she's got hard seconds left hurriedly chalking up now it'll be a good boulder to start for her she'll like it physical straight away starting with those blue lines those blue lines they indicate a different limb so two on the blue volume two on that starting hold i'm just gonna give it one last second up again watch her face you can see the effort oh my god and look shaking her hand it could be that skin issue could come in 14 seconds she's gonna go again a lot of attempts on a physical move in border one yeah and that was too much but yeah you could tell her first go she was really high up onto that undercling and then just move attempt after attempt she was just like much lower which means you got to just put in that much more effort so when you get a move like this that you know she cruised that first time through what changes between that first attempt and the second i think there's maybe like you underestimate then the move afterwards you're like oh i made this first go wasn't in brackets that hard but then afterwards your second go you know you don't maybe give yourself enough rest either like okay i'll go again and then just like attempt after attempt your energy levels just go down and then if that's a max move you gotta have like at least what three four minutes rest before being able to do it again exactly i read something about uh if you're at your limit sort of six minutes is where you should be resting for these women have four minutes to do this multiple times they gotta give their max with 30 seconds rest absolutely right brook roberto comes out onto the stage what a season she's had i mean you scroll down just medal after medal her last medal was in innsbruck for the lead her last bouldering medal was in salt lake city where she got bronze so she has potential to podium here tonight what can she do so she's holding the volume of a more static into that hole yep now unwinds her body to press up gets the zone we'll chalk up you see this jump the second time now tonight so brooke's a lot shorter than stacia too so it's gonna be interesting to see how this turns out yeah 175 centimeters 158 so kick a jump those volumes are like good volumes but the wall is quite overhang and when you're trying to triple dino they just all of a sudden absolutely that graphic by the way down on the left the bars that are half filled up that indicates the zone if it's halfway it fills up totally if the athlete gets a top and we'll keep you updated with the scores in fact there's a massive screen in front of our faces with the scores so uh it'll be on screen and we'll keep you updated yeah we have a good view of the couple we really do like when i asked you to do this i should have mentioned that we have the best view in the house on this one so grip sick method we're pressing up now we'll chalk up again she's got two minutes on the clock plenty of time she will be saving a lot of energy doing it that way for the next borders oh static with the toe look neither of us saw that one oh my goodness what is that gosh that was amazing that was awesome i hadn't spotted the toe and i was about to say she's going to have trouble unlocking the toe yeah but she kind of went with the momentum yep and she double dino'd so then she had complete pressure on the left hand to like stop her swing and then already had the top in her hand that was an amazing method oh that really was i did not think of that i didn't either i didn't even see it didn't even consider no oh it's a long way it's stretched out and as we mentioned she is a bit shorter 158 and it made the stretch look pretty straightforward and also she got her toe hook in super easy like tote dynamic toe hooks it usually takes a couple of attempts to get in because you're not always at the right height for your toe you're not you don't always know where the hold is and like there she just easily boom yeah i think i think that's a really good point so andrea comes out right uh unleash your most bias commentating please feel free andrea cumin 23 first final at the world championships like you said she wasn't feeling the pressure i can't believe that surely her heart is gonna be going right now well right now i would say pressure but more like excitement and like like i said this is her first finals like she just needs to have fun that's all she's going to be doing and the coaches are super psyched that she's made it it was like a super good result for the swiss team this weekend and so yeah it's just going to be so fun to watch her [Music] same method yeah a smart way of doing it and of course with no expectation you sometimes see athletes just relaxing a little bit and unleashing themselves so yeah she is straight into the zone and i feel like the more you have fun the the better you do it's like broken natalia back at salt lake there's a big jump and a fall isn't it yeah high up on that wall so i actually i think the dyno the triple dino was what they were thinking but the way brook did it was much better yeah like breaking the baby it just looks so unlikely when you see it like that because it's around the corner as you said uh you know that kind of a move where you have to do a hand movement and then bring your toe up that kind of coordination especially when you can't see your foot yeah not easy you've got to really move your head i i usually like look at the hand hold and then look at the toe hook but sometimes you're too slow and like you could just see your foot missing the hold but she did it first go and see some replays of that i would imagine throughout the next couple of weeks it's gonna be a moment sandra has two minutes ten on the clock lots of time left she's already got straight into the dyno now i might just be thinking about different ways of this or trying to work out the angles for that jump again yeah and i was talking to her before because like my skin is terrible right now but she said her skin has never been better and i'm like i mean it's a sign for you to be a final step there you go could this be her turn to stand on the podium she's 23. come on pixies 2011. she's really good at coordination like she just totally understands the way her body moves so different methods went for the match on the black that's going to be hard to hold that kind of a swing yeah because you can also see that the volume is a bit slanted so you're gonna have to be super like strong in your hands to stop yourself from slipping and you're gonna have a big swing to the right which makes it yeah hard to do this is this press move you see the angle of that hole it's no way positive and you have to match the wood is slippy as well so that was the minute bell she has one minute probably maybe one two attempts which is very quick here yeah usually when you leave it a minute you tell yourself okay last attempt but then you never know if you're like if your foot slips at the beginning or that that really was so the double dino style move then dropped back down to the black stop the swing so she was more static and then went right again i i think i don't think she meant to do that it was just like she was falling but she was like oh i could actually grab myself yeah you're right look you can see there's a little fault and then she somehow still back on went up to the left with 15 seconds left on the clock okay moscow this is good so far we're enjoying this thank you very much this is an awesome show so she will move into second place with that one although she topped it as did brooke she topped it in more attempts than brooke just by one though so keeping in touch all the way slasher moves down to third we're halfway through this first boulder next up elena goes off skip come out we're practicing i'm messed up so elena kozovskaya will come onto the stage representing the cfr taking a second to brush the holds yeah and she has made semis quite often in bouldering and also in lead and she's also like a super strong young climber but never really managed to pass on to finals and now she's finally in finals on the stage like in moscow it's i mean i would think it's a big thing for her right now yeah absolutely massive i mean she's won medals in youth competitions before yeah but senior she hasn't quite broken into the very very top just missed out finals in 2020 for the continental championships and myringine she was 17th 27th in innsbruck so close but not this far yeah she went with the same method as stasha in her first attempt she comes up she always comes up with these amazing different methods that you would never think of [Music] that's a very physical way to do that move i think she might perhaps switch back on this one but it's good sometimes we see this you know you try one method to try another method then you've nailed how much works and then you can go for it yeah i guess bouldering is something hard to do because sometimes you're maybe hesitating on a couple of methods and you're like okay i'll try this one and then you're not really sure if you should maybe try the other method and so sometimes you're hesitating which isn't good either but yeah i think it's always good to like try a couple of different methods so physical the problem is catching it like that it's so sloppy you know your body's going backwards there's nothing to stop you really yeah you got to get yourself really high up so then it's more of an undercling but to get it that high just got to go so powerful and you've got to trust your feet on these volumes a similar method to stasher elena struggling a little bit at the moment for the double jump up from representing cfr in her home crowd here in moscow it's exciting for her and she was i saw her after the semi-finals and she was just in floods of tears like so emotional to get here yeah i mean also during semis the crowd just went so wild for their athletes and it was like i mean for them it just must be so much fun being able to compete here absolutely so tries again so close the legs swinging out but the more attempt she has doing it this physical way will get more and more tiring yeah so she brushes out i love these mics on the wall you can hear everything it's awesome it's cool isn't it are you did you know that when you were competing that how how much we can hear no it's maybe good but do they always have microphones on the wall or is this like something new this is the most i've heard okay and i think it's a cool feature but i do think maybe they should warn you so she's got half of it right but then wrong on that jump yeah there are her coaches and they've been so expressive throughout the semi-finals where we kept flicking to them on the camera but yeah with mike's on the wall i'm usually someone who swears a bit sometimes on the wall so like you're not supposed to swear really on live are you i don't know i'm sure yeah i'm sure though i don't know it's an official rule but but i'd like wasn't it so i got a red card oh there we go is it official yeah because you could just like read his lips yeah you gotta be careful or a fine maybe not a red card but a fire or something well the microsoft do allow us a very intimate perspective from the athletes you hear you know every thud you can hear the effort going into it and the physicality of it and like the noises the breathing it's just makes it a lot more personal and just like shows the effort that they're giving so four athletes done natalia grossman will be out next for the usa the brushes brush it in between times and it's up to the athletes after that which does take a little time uh sorry yes carmilla next yeah you can see in a time i was reading the massive scoreboard in front of you and italia was next but yeah camila next camilaroni comes out onto the stage she started climbing with her parents near finale in uh in italy yeah she posted a instagram story where she was like oh i made finals thanks dad super awesome when it like when it's family helps you get to your objectives wow so she's the physical method but makes it look pretty easy right down low on that hole with the right now matches see what she'll do on this jump no one has spotted the toe the brook found yet [Applause] so she was setting up for the jump to the right just have a little pop but okay so this method we know she's using the physical way through now let's see if she can keep it going [Music] yeah also like the jump at the end the brooks method with the tow hook she was also i would say lucky but she had a bigger higher probability of her foot slipping too and it's amazing that it didn't yeah sometimes you need a bit of luck when you're at this level with the right thoughts she's in support strong strong athlete goes down low on that hole in order to set herself up for this jump heavy forward the foot slipped together [Music] so footstep because of body position or just the nature of that volume look at that there's the yeah well the slow-mo was quite good you could see that like she's pushing up and as she pushes up there's a lot less like shoe on the hole so she only had her tip at the very end when she wanted to push off completely and so that is just you're set to like when that usually happens yeah sticky rubber only goes so far really can't defy gravity yeah everyone else kind of did like a foot swing behind and then like just like jumped off onto the volume so they're a lot like on top of the hole in the same position in the same direction although she's a lot more to the left so she needs to push a bit more on the foot so little adjustment is needed she's got the time though 45 again into this but now she's got the foot up yep i can see much easier to do it that way so let's watch this right foot keep an eye on it are you at home a little bit more yeah [Applause] [Music] [Applause] see that is just awesome hearing that she's so happy and relief because she will know that there's been tops on this holder and therefore that pressure you know will be building and building and building yeah and the second she did that swing everything changed for her stuck there and knew she was gonna make it at that moment amazing so talking about pressure natalia grossman has been sitting backstage listening to tops hearing it getting more nervous but she's a lady who deals with pressure exceptionally well and she just loves being in these finals so i'm excited to watch her out she comes we just watch the end of camilla's top there is natalia grossman takes a moment grabs the brush she'll have that competition heads head on she'll know that really to to get up there into the podium places she's going to need flashes she's gonna need to climb these quickly yeah i think she has a really strong mentality like in myringan when she um i think it was the last boulder like she just like took a couple of seconds before there's a picture i think that she shared and she could just see she had her eyes closed probably visualizing what was going to happen and she did the border after that and that was just like also really awesome to watch it's a good outdoor climber as well 8b yeah ac sports so [Music] this is going to be a flash if you can keep it together she does now she just needs the match gets it controls it amazing so that will jump up straight into the leaderboard with that flash and yeah i mean i said she was the favorite coming into this oh my personal favorite coming into it just in terms of her form yeah yeah i mean i think justifies my favoritism i mean this year you can just tell that she's in great shape she's been building and building and building and a lot of people were saying like why isn't she in the olympics well she wasn't in in bits because she didn't qualify for the olympics yeah but she will have a chance 2024 and perhaps suit her style more with bouldering and lead instead of the speed yeah yeah i find it cool that speed would be a separate discipline because it's just it's a lot different training wise and yeah she's super strong in bold and she's super strong in lead and yeah i think the disciplines are a bit more and like climbing wide absolutely i've seen you on the speed all quite a few times is that a regular part of your training no not anymore but we have swiss speed champs once a year and so just to like for fun and to have like some athletes because otherwise there won't be many people either yeah i participate i'm a big advocate of speed personally like i just respect the athletes who do and it's so hard it is and like i think it did compliment my bordering a lot like i was a lot more explosive yeah and yeah let's watch her now there's a little tiny screw on with the right that she's using now matches it come down that volume was in place the big grey volume during the semi-finals wasn't really used as the boulder went to the left this comes to the right we're expecting it to come into play now yeah that tiny horseshoe with the left hand is really small yes it is there's no feet from now on like sort of changing corners pitch an el cap this is nice goes from yeah facing different directions walks her feet up slowly slowly but yeah this this kind of volume it's you got to have your heels really low to have like more of the shoe touching the volume and i feel like natalia has super like flexible carved muscles because she can feel so low so almost all the shoe is on the volume yeah and that will help a lot more to not slip that was something that uh i got taught a while back and it's i hadn't even thought about i've considered that yeah stretching is going to make it better for slab yeah irritatingly so but it does yeah i haven't followed the advice but i appreciate it so stasha on this slab and she's an expert in body movement you know she's so analytical of how to climb and the movements required she just makes these adjustments between attempts there you can see like her whole shoe is on the volume holding her breath as she sticks so much it so much effort time paused for a second she stopped breathing and now she's breathing stash is one of those athletes where if she gets into her own head i think it can affect her a little bit and she needs like a little bit of success in order to just like release herself yeah because i guess she also knows that four out of six athletes have made also the first border and you know she wants her podium and if not win and so like it kind of hits you hard when you're you didn't make the first one but a lot of other athletes have that man in the audience below is her dad and coach and he's one of my favorite people on the entire tour i love that man he's just amazing you can just always hear his voice in the background on the live yeah well it starts just one starter's climbing i haven't confirmed this apparently he has an aftershave uh named after him oh yeah yeah yet to be confirmed if it's true it's amazing so stash it will pad away across the slab out to the big grey volume and now sofia said all the rubber she can put down on the wall right now and way higher this time yeah on that red volume that is just super physical too big shoulder move she's gotten through it let's see how she does the end once again gotta trust the volume no footholds a minute to go she won't have a lot of opportunity she really needs to get this done right now catches it needs to match it and control it [Music] yes dasha so a top for her that was just pure will it wasn't it wanted to make it when she went into that final hold you could just see her fingers wanting to let it go and just refused so stash is off the mark with the top she's got a zone before she'll jump to the top of the leaderboard because no one else is out yet let's watch that again that red volume is the zone hole and these holes aren't necessarily bad but it's just the way they position them and the holes that you have just makes it horrible yeah i mean no real footholds and i'm used to standing on footholds they're just standing on volumes yeah and also an exercise i think if you're watching this thinking like oh why aren't they doing it go and try a boulder in your local gym within your grade and put a time limit on it put a four minute time limit see how hard it is it changes everything yeah especially in qualities you have five minutes and i feel like just that extra minute is huge amount of time compared to fall [Music] so brook rabatu broke the vita on the first boulder what can she do with this yeah will it suit her style i mean we know that she's such an intelligent climb she just thinks through problems something like this where there's a lot of complexity to the movements should suit her i also find it really interesting like height wise the different methods and how they get through the borders differently or if it like affects them in any way [Music] so there's a screw on for her right hand which she's got with that awful left hand she now drops chalking up all the way and let's see she's got the flexibility to put as much rubber down as possible she does so far but she's got her okay now she's going on the upper part of the volume but she's on the lower part which is even worse than where she has her foot out that's some strength to help that we saw stasher almost hold that move and then you just got to completely move over to the right which is just pure shoulder strength but rabbits who wants this closes her eyes pauses and rests [Music] it takes to go little couple of seconds to reset and [Music] so she's got the left hand she chalks up again matches and he's going to go for a little hesitation that balancing point is so fine between falling and being on going down to the rest this is a sport i understand why they bring their chart like now yeah there we go oh my fingers are so sweaty just watch oh you can see my teeth yeah through your skin so brooke close now she's gonna have to commit to this move i don't think she can drop down again wow two hands on it [Applause] wow this is perfect this is going to be a back and forth tournament i can see because brooks just jumped ahead of stasher again because of that did that flash too [Applause] well i said complexity of movements i mean she was on there for an eternity coming back down resting figuring out yeah she took two minutes now she'll have the time to go back and recover and what do i think do during this recovery time because you know in my head i think they just sort of sit there and have a sip of water but are you stretching are you just chilling what would you do um well i guess it depends right now they have um every athlete goes through although in semis you only have like five minutes and qualities too so like usually behind if you gave a lot of effort i'd be like stretching out my forearms shaking out a bit walking around drinking water maybe eat something but then some other athletes prefer to like sit down and just like close their eyes and concentrate i guess it depends but i think walking around and shaking out helps actually you don't want to seize up the river farmers so andrea is back out again yep she's sitting in fifth at the moment remember not all the athletes including her have climbed on this boulder yet so that leader will flick around already got a she's really technical and she's really good at slabs like it amazes me what she can do in training well she's got to be for this boulder because it's all technique on this yeah like we said it's it's a slab but not much of a slab it's a bit overhang but it's still kind of slab style yeah those volumes just creating 3d shapes on the wall works her feet up trying to get as flat as possible come on setting up for this she's also super flexible beautifully through this is her flash attempt flash the first time and i think tries a boulder resting it out so commit time onto that black volume no footholds on it no screw-ons it's just pure volume into the heel oh this is stressful watching like i can't talk how much do you want to shout the beater out the window right oh i just want to like shout but feel free to switch the off air button sandra heel right heel down pressing into a flat surface of that volume all the rubber of the shoes are on the volume she needs to find the balancing point now matches one move to go oh and a big left so we've seen two different methods of this we had stash has one hand out and then the match brooks double pop and i think andrea looked like she was trying to sort of aim between those two men i think she was maybe hesitating a bit and she had a bit of a foot pop a little bit she came in she didn't move far enough into the hold and was her left hand was quite like straight and not high enough we could have made it hard anyway to hold the final hole so she came close got the zone and i always think it's so harsh i think always think i think they should get more points if you touch the final hole i'm just saying we should reinvent the scores like a 0.5 well i actually find it interesting how they do in the states like they have different points for like different heights in the border a bit like lead but in bouldering and like i think that's quite cool because yes someone who gets to the last move but grabs a bonus but then someone else who struggles to get the bonus and barely does the moves afterwards is quite different yeah for sure there's a tough scoring system here for the bouldering [Music] yeah and she took quite a bit of time on her first attempt and so now she didn't have much rest yeah 50 seconds just underneath she needs to get through this section a bit quicker she won't have that length of rest but she knows the beta now she's going to trust her [Applause] there's nothing she's going for on that volume it's just pure volume and i think she's going to call it [Applause] so expect things to change this is this is great back and forth all the time during this competition it's what we'd like to see yeah that is the scoreboard down the bottom left rabbit two in the lead with those two tops at the moment and flash on that second one remember andrea kuhlman we just watched her in second slash third at the moment there are podium places very nice lens lots of photographers here and the official rpc photographer yan burt do you go and check out his photos he's been working tirelessly around the clock yeah there's a lot going on right now or isn't it bouldering climbing lead everything and it's nice to see an audience back in yeah it's super cool like i would say it's quite full yeah it's pretty packed i mean the atmosphere that the athletes have been giving alone in the last couple of comps has been enough but you do just miss that little fizz from the audience yeah the crowd just makes it that much better when they're shouting behind you so elena is in sick at the moment she didn't top that first fold or get his own so she needs to get her competition off and running now pressure is on [Music] yeah i guess i also find it a bit unfortunate that they have to brush their holds um because they only do have four minutes and that already took off like 30 seconds and i guess that's an attempt but i totally understand this stack wise the volunteers do brush the holes before they go on yeah between times and sometimes maybe it's almost like a psychological thing as well they want to make it as clean as possible so she's working her way up now this is her first attempt on this boulder a little low at the moment has to go higher yeah she needs to get that right a little bit higher just using her toes there to press into that boulder sticks it beautifully and rotate her body her weight to the right [Applause] now she can have a moment to rest she doesn't have a chalk bag with her yeah because she can't chalk up no just really shaken out yet either just continuing [Applause] ah there's another claim wow okay oh my gosh matches to finish that's intelligent climbing yeah she just like throws these methods out of nowhere that you never think of and makes it look so much easier i mean on tv that looks like a different move because that final hole is way above her head yeah i mean the flexibility to stand down on the volume and get the left foot up yeah like she's super flexible and to be able to control that like yeah getting your foot dead on splits above your head let's watch that again that is the move and that's the angle doesn't do it justice that her foot is almost a head level yeah slightly above even then brings the right drops the knee matches job done especially she didn't get zone on the first one so great boulders from the route setters so far multiple ways it's always a bit of a shame i think when you get a boulder that only has one method and there isn't really another way of doing it i like boulders where they can be creative yeah like you've got six climbers and usually sometimes all six of them have different methods and it's just awesome to watch how everyone thinks differently and everyone has their own style so camila we'll start off that crap by the way in the middle of the black volume you can't stand on that it's not an edge or anything it's pretty flush to the other volume not much to it so she's [Music] on this lay back move lay backing when you straighten your arms like that work your hands up with your body weight on one side pumps the right slips with the left that keeps it together [Music] [Applause] and she's straight up much higher than what the other athletes other females are at so now she rests no chalk back for her as well now what method will she use [Applause] that was well done another flash that changes the sports scoreboard once again she moves into second place two tops out of two for her four attempts overall [Music] she made that look real easy yeah effortless really but she completely turned her body in a different position to what andrea was in and so already she was much higher and much more to the left so closer to the hold so the brushes get to work cleaning up the boulders we watch some more replays [Music] last bouldering comp she was 21st in innsbruck oh just out of seven just out of semi's yeah heartbreakingly close before that 13th salt lake city 18th in murray game so again close but not quite could this be her night [Music] you've got it natalia someone screams from the audience and you kind of get the feeling at the moment that she does have it just have to border one like yeah she just proves it so off she goes she flashed boulder one was sitting on top geez i said it was flush apparently not oh you can see there's a tiny tiny gap but like really nothing to you i mean not enough for mortals surely anyway she's on the slab now to work hard for this physical move wants to get as high as possible before making a snatch up with the right hand it's higher than anyone else almost way up yeah i guess it's really important these kind of shoulder moves to be as high as possible because if you're lower you just gotta also give so much more energy bringing yourself up although if you smack it in really high then you're already in that good position and good to go natalia thinks about bringing the right foot up drops it back down i think she's looking to maybe pop over it did look like that old tow hook okay well that's how he's gonna have to be released [Music] it doesn't matter what beta you use natalie grossman's got all the tricks so two out of two jump her back up to the top of the leaderboard too i can't keep up i'm exhausted we're halfway through ladies and gentlemen we're in moscow for the world championships my name is matt groom and i'm joined by sofia yokoyama didn't make finals here tonight but she's here with me and that is pretty special thank you very much for joining thank you for having me and do go check out sophia's youtube videos instagram all the rest she's a prolific vlogger and they are very good videos if you want to see training tips and advice do go and follow her yeah thank you little shout out for either so we pause and look at the scoreboard natalia grossman we just saw her she's back on top brook rabbit in second place camilla in third at the moment but it's close yeah it's super tight right now and now we head on to a slab yeah that didn't i mean we kind of jokingly said it was a slab not slab but i mean the next one is a proper proper slab and it's going to be interesting to see how they do the start move because we were thinking of a mantle but i think stacia was when she was looking at it she was thinking more dynamic okay so like a sort of jumpy press yeah or like dynamic to the right onto the foothold stand up and then maybe like hold you something with the black okay volume we'll see yeah we will see kind of it's a nice looking boulder it's just a trump verse the man lives and breathes every comp with his daughter there's team slovenia watching on statue will come out on her third boulder [Applause] his voice is so recognizable yeah so dynamic i always see what you mean up to the zone i'm with you okay yeah maybe not i just thought it was a static kind of movement pressing upwards but maybe not [Music] into the zone beautifully and now there's a small side pool thing about waist height on this wall oh i should put her left foot in the middle ah she's doing it yeah i would expect her to put the left foot on the screw and then bring the right yeah through i thought the same she's heading back over she might change yeah there we go and then cross yeah if that hole is so small and she's got so much tape on her fingers like that would not be good there is a screw on but it's awful out with the left and then this problem with that screw on it's like it's right in front of like your stomach so you can't get as close to the wall and on slabs you really need to just like stay as close as possible stacia reaches into a bag what are you gonna pull out your shoes yeah those shoes i only know this because i'm quite stiff so maybe choosing a softer pair let's see and this is the move we're talking about just had a few different methods there's the screw on which is rarely there this is true yes that final hole keep an eye on it if she gets that far because it's almost like they've bolted a bit of dual texture on top of it oh look at that one handed actually yeah she's understood the movement and i think she knows exactly what she needs to do so she's got one different foot a very soft one for the right stiffer one from the left [Music] that seems to have done the job yeah and look at that dual texture kind of screwed onto the top of that there's little sections missing of that no texture surface so yeah for this move she's just going to have to completely trust your left foot [Music] because there's nothing to hold above it oh changing the second shoe double soft pistachio the shoe down off camera here stash was just such an expressive climber to watch i'm not sure you know in terms of keeping calm and all that but i don't really care when she comes i like to see it i i find it nice to kind of see the expression and what they're feeling and yeah exactly she's a human being with human emotions and she's got objectives and she's so close to them like i guess when an objective like slips out of your hands either those footholds so [Music] [Applause] being the first athlete out might be cleaner saves a bit of time but it is risky isn't it she holds the volume she's standing under the left hand [Applause] you have to control that hole with both hands for a half a fraction of a second she had it in control it wasn't long enough let's watch that again she comes up creeps the fingers finger right on it moves the left up slowly slowly to match it watch the position held it lost the right hand i mean when a finger lets you down i just i hate my body i get new fingers pistachio emotionally leaves the stage she'll have a little time now to compose herself brook rabbit strides across the arena with two tops already [Music] yeah one more attempt than natalya that's all separating the two teammates i really appreciate the music choices like sometimes we get some uh questionable music choices but i like this that's subtle [Music] so she's much shorter as i've said before yeah we talk about height and it's something i've said before it's not that we're saying that things are easier or harder if you're shorter or taller it's just certain moves that suit certain styles researchers know this and they set it up for them so that's talking about height we're not saying oh she's not going to be able to do it but just saying it's a different one exactly i like her method is going to be completely different in the way she does it and it's interesting to actually watch that and it's awesome to see that like ballroom suits tall people as shorter people yeah within a boulder sometimes you can get moves that suit the shorts and then shoot the talk all within a boulder yeah it's complicated but brooke so far is not getting close to this zone hold she's near but not near to sticking it yeah she moves out of the wall when she's close to the hole that says the hole isn't that good she's got to just stay that much closer she's always bringing getting her knee kind of in the way on that black volume as well as she comes up she's like struggling to understand at what time to push and set her feet coming from one of the most climbing families i've ever heard of mom and dad both competed and like she's a brother as well fantastic it's getting there isn't it two minutes left yeah but like typically this kind of move for her in four minutes is really short sometimes you're like oh if i just had like maybe an extra five minutes it would have gone through but unfortunately that was all you got so brooke just reassess it she has got plenty of time although that slab is not straightforward and she won't be giving herself a lot of time to work that slab move out yeah that's one thing you've got to work on it's you just take too many attempts to make the beginning and then all of a sudden you just need one extra attempt to do the end but you've just already taken three minutes you unfortunately don't have that extra time to continue working on it so brooke is running out of time minute 18 she's getting closer and closer though each attempt will be counting towards her score [Music] and again it's getting closer to that as well probably when you're in that position she's going to have a hand so long you're gonna get but there is a very good foot yeah but then you have no handholds really you're gonna really have to you have to change it to a palm down wouldn't you press up and that's not easy so changes it 36 seconds you can sense a bit of frustration creeping in now yeah and she's not giving herself much time to rest because you just want to make it i think she feels that she knows that she can latch that zone hole she's in yeah and of course with this many this high scoring round a zone could be the difference between a medal and a knot yeah and i guess it's also frustrating if you struggle on the first move but you know that the next part could like work out really easily and you're really close to making it but so did a little cardio workout yeah i mean she's gonna she's breathing heavily there was a lot of running involved there so brooke leaves no top and no zone for her see a few replays of this so she was getting close but but also out yeah we all know that feeling this feeling every time i see a slab is that a feeling so there is team usa i'm watching nervously on andrea [Music] you're supposed to wait but the time yeah tricky right just uh got caught there to tell you i guess you're like super excited to climb but you gotta wait a couple of seconds before turning around i always find that a bit of a weird move because it feels quite artificial you have to run out so you can see the boulder then you turn around then you face back in and you've already read the border so like still rules rules so and you said how good she is at these kind of moves these coordination style jumps yeah she usually gets them down quite fast and um when we've had team trainings where we've had like tons of borders for us and for the men like she does the mixed dinos the coordination photos super easy people are watching this at home thinking i'm not very good we'll stick with oh comes down yeah how do you train moves like this is there specific training for it um i think on one side there's kind of like that explosive you need to you need to be explosive and in the legs and arms but then on the other side you've just got to do it on the wall there's nothing really more that you can do just like train it [Music] so she just reassesses this she's not even using like the black volume she's just kind of trying to hold on to the to the zone yeah she's not been given the point because she hasn't really used that zone [Music] once again oh switzerland behind me right now [Applause] [Music] that's the closest you can get surely i actually wonder how good that hold is because the way she's doing it it seems to be quite good but then she slips off at the very end i mean it makes it pretty impressive watching if you remember back to stacia doing that move how easily how powerfully she did it yeah i know she's a little taller but still the the explosiveness of stash and the coordination that you need to be able to do that so eyes it up again goes down i didn't quite have the feet movement there foot movement coming up to a minute now this boulder the hardest proven to be the hardest so far yeah i guess slabs you never know if it's gonna work well or [Applause] but not still quite far out yeah it's her body weight pulling her backwards so only stashes so far has crossed that slab and she's also quite straight like she's right beneath the hole although stacia was a bit more to the right when she grabbed onto it so she could pull against the hole [Music] yeah it's centimeters but it does make a difference again got that knee just slightly caught up underneath but yeah she's not fully using that black volume as a foothold at the end so maybe that's also what's stopping her from [Applause] now does kind of having to twist the knee down yeah i think you need to be like full face onto the wall one last chance you'll want to yeah she's in the wrong day so frustrating for her no zone no top push her down a little elena is out next we said she needed to get a competition underway and she did on the second boulder flashing that with some insanely high foot beater let's watch andrea's last moments on this yeah yeah it's always hard when you don't move a lot on the border because all you want to do is just like give it all you have and get as far as possible but when you're just stuck on that first move it gets really frustrating [Applause] and then comes out onto the stage big support from the crowd how it goes why yeah really does she takes a moment to brush the zone i can't wait to see what she tries on this one it's going to be interesting to see there are coaches they have a tv show so making sure everything is perfect for her used up almost 30 seconds of a time yeah i think psychologically also like with these kind of footholds you just always want to clean them because i think the cleaner they are oh wow well she's sitting in sixth which kind of doesn't really show the quality of this athlete because she's suddenly found an extra gear here different features she might have the feet wrong hasn't brought the right in and that's going to be very tricky she's going to have to almost jump that right across yeah but it seems to work she's trusting it and she has quite rigid shoes on right now but she's really good at slabs like it's impressive what she can do yeah the balance on that and she's changing her foot up on it oh come on nice that is impressive the arena goes nuts on a slab she's actually got two flashes yeah two flashes that first one was really tricky for her you know you could see it slightly got in her head she was emotional when she went off she went backstage changed something and it's come out on fire yeah that's something what you've got to keep in mind especially in bouldering it's like it's never over until like the very end because sometimes depending on what happens throughout the comp it's the last border that just does it all it changes everything i can't believe she made this left foot work like i can't i i thought she was going to pop off at any second look that right leg almost automatically going higher and higher in the correct center of gravity okay it feels like we've been on a journey during this competition it's been really exciting it has been isn't it camila is out next my last medal was in the youth champs 2019 for the bouldering comp so yeah to get one for the seniors it's amazing you've been fourth with two tops [Applause] yeah there's five always turning out quite good i think i mean sometimes people complain about high scoring rounds personally i like it like yeah i like to see tops obviously not all the same tops if everyone flashes it yeah yeah not great but it's better than no one climbing anything exactly like for now everybody's been topped but not necessarily the same athletes top that border so that's what i find more interesting like that really just shows you like the different styles that everyone has as a climber yeah you're watching uh you know six people fall off the same move over and over again yeah it's challenging to commentate on suddenly it's nice to have this bit of excitement here yeah and it has happened in comps where either like all the athletes have almost topped all four or like there's only been one top for every athlete so it's really hard for the root centers too to kind of like find that the middle ground yeah yeah so we're about halfway through this world championships launching yourself up the wall tonight it's the women's bouldering tomorrow it's the men's bowl drink then we move on to the lead on monday any qualifications on a tuesday we have a huge day double whammies of everything for the men and the women lead competitions double whammy i believe i just said that trust even a word i find it quite fun to have like the women and men climb at the same time so it's going to be super fun to watch the the econ [Music] low and sticking it very stasher-esque movement that camilla can find a top here she's gonna she's gonna be herself in a really good spot here but yeah you can see she's her butt is like really far away from the wall and it's just going to bring her down so what what's the solution to that bring your hips quickly into the wall is it just a position when you're jumping i think you need to push more onto then the black foot so then you're higher and like yeah your hips are closer to the wall it's all in the hips hips don't lie a certain famous song says camilla needs to unlock this movement yeah and i guess here she's just like giving all in when she does that explosive move so she doesn't rest enough it's just going to be harder to give that much energy every time she's got a minute left she's running out of time here hasn't got the zone yet a little bit more in order to get that this is a huge move [Applause] nice it's got glue on our hands there stuck to that beautifully she's here she's happy to have made it similar shoes as well same shoes shoes elena yep yeah it's always been a big discussion like what would be better for like tiny footholds or volumes and i would say maybe like for smaller holes rigid shoes would be better because your shoe won't like fall into the holes although volumes more camila chops out sorry that's a very interesting topic we'll carry on in a sec because canada just gets to the top we said she set herself up well she's in the first position at the moment she's been on fire since the very beginning she really has this is this is her comp so yeah you're right the little stiffer shoes on the smaller holes just it creates a bit more stability doesn't it yeah and like but then more softer shoes on volume because you want to get your heel as close to the like as much rubber on the hole as possible and but the fact there's two screw-ons on those volumes makes me think the stiffer shoes is the way to go on this one exactly it was just the volume then yeah soft it was away look at that at least you can't believe she's there yeah [Applause] stretching stretching it's the top okay a moment to breathe up here in the commentary box as natalia grossman cleans up the hold i mean i'd say that puts a bit of pressure on natalie but she's just like flashed the two first boulders i'm like does it really does she really feel pressure or not whether she feels it or not though she'll need a top in order to maintain her lead here yeah [Music] height is interesting because she's 162 camila was one five seven so natalia is a little higher than camilla but again just starting to get the the whatever is the distance on that jump yeah but it just proves like yeah height it does sometimes make some moves harder or easier but it is doable for everyone absolutely like sometimes i do talk about it with sasha because we're both on the smaller side and when i talk with sasha he's like well i mean we just got to be stronger right like totally natalia gets the zone now starts her journey left [Music] [Applause] [Music] yeah a little leg shape showing how much pressure has been put through her legs but she will jump back into first position with that one just four attempts compared to camilla's seven on that boulder staying composed and super happy sophia i can't believe it's almost over we've only got one boulder to go i know this has been so fun this is great what finals here tonight natalia look at that brings the hand in to match that's how small the side pools are and you have to then bring your right hand into the other side of that cycle yeah and keep in mind like staying close to the wall with your hand like right in front of your stomach is really hard this move her legs were shaking but not due to nerves or anything like that it's just much more pressure yeah and she had that kind of hybrid shoe there that it's quite stiff that she's got that split sole which means a bit flexible maybe that's the way yeah maybe a bit in between in between okay so fourth and final boulder will be out next and let's just look at the leaderboard natalia grossman fights back to get back on top camila moroney in second elena in third rabbit two down in fourth stasher fifth and then sixth okay and it is all to play for at this stage yep everything can happen right now i mean i i think the tally camilla are quite set but if they don't move on this last border and elena does it can change a lot of things exactly if atlanta gets the top and they don't if she flashes this last border and they don't get even zoned she wins yeah so everything on the table oh how much skin has stacia got left though because this is physical and we know she's been struggling with this a little bit gets that toe then unlocks the toe someone take a photo of that and now she goes that would make a great phone really would you advert where you're at snapping sir [Music] she knows what she needs to do oh come on that's so cool there she goes this grip locks it off you can see the thumb wrapping over the fingers to lock off that crimp and then this move just looks so powerful [Music] ah the pinch kicks this last right yes and like that last move on that like terrible slopper pinch she made that look awesome i was about to say i wonder if that hole because it because it's been sloppy will affect her with the skin it clearly didn't but that takes a lot of skin that holds like it's horrible look at this all the way around she goes 360. it looks about chilled at that point it's styling out so stacia moves to the right hand side of the stage or she'll be waiting for the results but this is her top it was it's a good hold that one where she rotated on and then that pinch and the kick but that move we'll see how the others do but it looks super hard yeah i think this she just made that look easier than it is yeah because she it's like quite slanted the wall and that's a bad pinch and the fact that she kept her left hand i think that helped a lot if she'd let go she probably would have swung a bit too far to the right and then what's the top hold that's where we are women's for this final year athletes have already gone through the qualifying stages semi-finals this morning not enough not a lot of time to recover and they're back at it again [Music] and rather two is up she's currently down in fifth really needs a top here [Music] missed out on the slab on when it's on folder iii [Music] ah interesting so it doesn't jump and release so stacia jumped and released that foot at the same time yeah she kept her toe hook although here brook went full force and just like squeezed that left hand big time makes it more of a static jump so it's harder for the momentum but i think she'll still be closer to the hold as it proves to be so she's up and going chalk's up [Music] oh fig four in a competition i love this oh i wanted to use that so much just because i want a fig four move figure four is when you put your legs over your arm it's an ice climbing originally was a nice climbing move we are starting to see it in climbing more and more yeah but i find it it's really hard to sit and like to force people to do that move i guess it like changes big time height wise too yeah she manages to go so she made that pinch look very undramatic and it's holding like a slope kicks thinks better of it drops back down to rest [Music] yeah she lost her left hand and just like saw him way out to the right which makes it much harder to hold it's all about that left hand on that final move it seems to be so far stacia kept it in look at that feet higher in your head and right now i guess she's fighting for a podium place because she unfortunately didn't get zone on the slab yeah did you go away for that one so what she also did differently here is that she had her left foot on the black volume although stasia had been left on the red great shot there it's it's sometimes more nerve-wracking being i'm sure it is more nerve-wracking in an audience and you're on stage but you can do something if you're climbing we just have to watch yeah and it's always hard to like know what the climbers are thinking so it's like you're stressing for them but they're not stressed i mean yeah i i tried to stay non like committal in this job but like i cannot help but getting involved yeah i just get so into it it's exhausting i finished a comp but i'm exhausted that's what it should be that is the chuggy hole that she goes to and she's not even holding that jug to get to that zone hold on [Applause] [Music] big bump up again not pinching it just in the slope minutes ago right she'll have time for another a little rest and then i guess her last attempt [Music] so this is it game time for brook rabbit and fourth at the moment she'll need a top here she wants to get up into the podium places [Music] [Applause] yeah she just swings out how far can you go to the right before it's like impossible to hold up she was like almost an impossible looking move there you can see she looks tired come on oh again i think brooke will be done and remember she'll probably be climbing in the lead as well yeah her skin is we're gonna have to recuperate in just like one day yeah the rest day for her tomorrow is going to be very chilled out i'd imagine she leaves the stage fourth place so no podium for her here tonight goes and joins stacia yeah i guess stacia will also be stressing a bit because it's her podium place that's on the line right now look how far her body swings to the right here almost impossible look just past the point and then that top hold isn't actually that good no but you can tell she gave it all yeah there is nothing left i just gets a mouthful of chocolate there well [Applause] and deserved is just looking at her skin off to the right okay sixth position one top one zone that i will want something here how much will this mean to top something like this for her own like sense of of achievement and you know oh it should love it like topping borders is so satisfying and like especially in finals ooh made the jump yeah made the jump easy there now this next sequence so far hasn't been too bad just two quite straightforward climber style moves here it just seems to be quite far [Music] out going in with the same method of starship nice yeah gets it this time and then will she pinch or she go to the slope it goes to the slope she has her left foot on the red oh her foot slips off the black but you can tell she's starting to get tired right now yeah she's gonna have to rest between this the problem with this end is the feet really isn't it the hands aren't too bad we know that red isn't as good as it looks but the feet are just in an awkward position to make this move yeah you're really uncomfortable and yeah finding that right movement is hard that's an amazing looking move so cool as she comes in matches it bumped around just to get herself set in the right position got some fingers taped too but yeah her foot slips off well she's got time two minutes coming up now on the clock you can see the clock that's what the athletes see when they're on stage there's big screens there's a few dotted around the arena yeah and i guess also like right now she got to the last move and she was really close so i'm guessing right now she's chosen to rest and give maybe one last or maybe two attempts but that's also sometimes hard to decide on like whether to give yourself two minute rest and then just go at 30 seconds and just say okay this is just like i'm going to make it nothing [Music] well she's doing her country proud right now team switzerland represented out here tonight touches with the foot you don't need to use it you need to touch it oh i think yeah you're right getting a little tired which is understandable let's be honest i mean also these finals are quite early compared to other finals that we've had involved they're usually like at 8pm so you do have those extra two hours yeah and the athletes leaving the venue going back to hotels wherever they're staying they're having to travel all the way back yeah so she gets it this time just under a minute now kicks up in order to get the crew yeah trying to get swing because powering out come on oh you can hear her that feeling is one that you know if you climb you know when you your arms just aren't responding to what you want them to do you haven't got that extra 20 temperature whatever you need there's stacia and brooke just chatting it through andrea congratulations what a final for you she will leave join fellow athletes on the right hand side of the stage we're just picking up actually them chatting yeah that's really cool where are the microphones for them to i don't know i don't think i don't know if it's cool or kind of slightly creepy but they're here they're somewhere i mean i don't know if it's kind of i guess they're talking about more chocolate yes that's it see this is this is stash are amazing she brought toad road onto the stage she's got chocolate on her own is that chocolate or blood i don't know i think it was chocolate but she also had bloody fingers lovely figures right so elena is sitting in fifth she had a slow start and a dynamic end two flashes in a row for her if she can get a top here she will jump up into third position knocking stasher down [Music] yeah because right now she needs to top in three attempts or a zone in three and a topping four attempts for gold yeah but that's if i guess natalie and camilla don't do anything exactly yeah that's currently what's going on yeah yes i've heard they've got some skill between those two so she kept the tow hook she heads straight back onto the wall [Music] nice pirouettes around facing the wall once again matches on the volume and that's the difference in power wasn't it because andrea needed like a bit of a swing in order to get that she did it more statically [Music] trying to work out the position of his foot got toe hook in at the moment now brings the left through oh oh once again breaking the beater on these boulders yeah i think for this move dynamic is the way to go yeah she was trying to do it statically wasn't she yeah that just makes it so much harder but we did watch her earlier put her feet above her head so and she watched actually not that far yeah she was close all right so different method coaches i think the coaches couldn't quite believe that was working he was like no oh hang on a second's happening but yeah he sails he's going pumps [Music] under two minutes elena needs a top hit and she goes straight back in which method would she choose more dynamic or more static at the top and wish you have any energy to get there again that beautiful move circling around much control in that movement [Applause] come on into the slope i think she's looking to do it statically again i know maybe not [Applause] [Music] i'm gritting my teeth every time they do that move it's like it's so close to the point where they're gonna stick it it's like oh they're gonna hold they're gonna hold they're gonna hold on down they go look at it all the way out round round and this just proves like how strong stacia was by being able to keep holding that blue hole i remember sasha got this second go and it also amazes me how she can climb so well with like little rest yeah it's very very strong here keeping on her for the future up she goes with the sloper oh powering out now i think this will leave her outside of the podium places start distressing [Applause] yeah because this is for the podium places really because camila and natalia are already in yeah down she goes it's not gonna be enough so we know we know that stash is going to get the bronze yeah and she's realized it there stache will walk away with our first medal of this evening and you know what that woman deserves that medal she's worked so hard to come back from that injury she received the training she puts in she studies full-time as well chocolate type round ah you guys should be tasting over malty so much better wow that's the most controversial thing we've said all evening people are gonna be angry in the comments to fear you can't say that now it's going to be between camilla and natalya let's look at the scores i think i mean it's going to come down who tops who gets zones who makes a mistake at this stage i guess here camila really needs to either like flash which i guess won't happen now or an entirely just gives like a gazillion attempts so it doesn't top exactly she does this quickly it's in her court and she's putting the pressure on the tally if she doesn't then it's you're leaving it up to someone else to make that mistake i mean we'll have to watch from the sidelines as well huge move she didn't do like the 360 turn she went in straight isn't the clink yeah just lock those wrists off makes it first time super strong second attempt [Applause] [Music] right well second go for camilla she will move into first at the moment she's guaranteed a silver already remember i've got chills [Music] oh i'm so happy for her italy i hope you're standing up and celebrating right now because camilla has just done your country proud she waves to the audience that was amazing that move no spin needed straight into the undercling as you said or using it like an undercling yeah okay so camilla has a silver medal for sure for sure now it just i guess depends on exactly stasha has the bronze natalya will she get silver or will it be gold here in moscow and she actually matches quite quickly which stops the swing too well you couldn't write this script we are down to the last climate last boulder who will walk away with the gold here tonight that lady there has silver well she has gold at the moment but she might be bumped down to silva if natalya can climb this quickly yeah that puts a bit more pressure on us harley right now because it was the last boulder and this will be i mean camilla does have for gold or not there you go topping six attempts or zone in five and topping seven attempts complicated that but we're looking for zones and tops quickly yeah let's summarize that one i think the way she's been climbing recently it's just gonna i don't want to jinx it so i'm not gonna say anything okay don't i'll i'll tell the stats so flash the first one flash the second fourth attempt on the third oh she's smiling i think natalie grossman is on another level here tonight so i think she knows she can make it and [Music] up she goes into the zone hold locks it off powerfully up to the slope now we'll look for this little kick and a flick gets it first so strong natalia grossman is our gold medalist here tonight camilla morodi cheers to push the second silver [Applause] this was awesome to watch like and it's also awesome to see someone else runs across best friends teammates this season has had it all ladies and gentlemen we've come back from corona we finished here in moscow for the world championships yeah when his final is done sophia in a minute i'm gonna have to do a run thing downstairs to interview these guys so i just want to say my thank you's goodbye now just because i run out rudely okay no problem i know it's always disappointing he's coming from a semifinals into this thank you for joining me thank you for all your expertise thank you for having me it was really fun so those women are stars they will get the flower ceremony in a couple of minutes and then i'll go speak to him and then we'll have our podium i hope you enjoyed that back at home this is the moment when italia got her gold medal and his world champion yeah honestly hats off for the route setters like the borders were really cool yeah there wasn't a down moment in that whole fight i enjoyed every second of that so we pause watching the scenes from natalia how she stuck that look at the core tension amazing amazing right i'm gonna go down i'll leave you guys to enjoy this flower ceremony i'm gonna go and speak to natalia sofia i'll say goodbye thank you very much bye and thank you for having me so we see the confirmation of the results tally grows from gold camilla moroni in second place with the silver and stashier gets the bronze i'll see you guys in a couple of seconds [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] but [Music] all right [Applause] [Music] [Music] natalia you are a world champion you've got the gold medal i can see about a smile on your face how much that means to you congratulations thank you oh yeah exciting i mean what a final it came back and forth we saw lots of tops was it as exciting out there on the stage as it was for us watching you climb it felt exciting to me i don't know it was yeah i know i know this is a huge moment for you take a moment to soak it all in you're a world champion you've had an amazing season congratulations thank you it's cool now we go to the inside [Music] [Applause] do [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] good [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] well just like that our women's final is over and what an emotional moment for all taking part natalia grossman with the gold medal she is world champion second place camilla moroney and third with that bronze stash again thank you to sophia yokiyama for joining me here this evening ceremony of the ifsc world family commentator so much expert advice so we watch now the podium places let's see these athletes crowned here tonight awards will be presented by nagradi budut bruchette deborah garridge secretary general of the international federation of sport climbing debra gavridge secretary federated the president of the international federation of sport climbing marco maria scalares president michonne federation onto the stage to present these medallists world championship 2021 dummy russia previously they are our top three fantastic performances from them shocked a little bit when i was speaking to her just so much to take in for her bronze medalists representation will pick up another medal to her collection she stands with the bronze it was a wonderful moment up and down emotionally she top boulder she didn't top boulders but she walks away with that bronze medal [Music] fist bumps that's what i like to see stash it fist bump the official yes please silver medalist representing italy camila morani camilla maroney wow a roller coaster ride for her guy mila silver medal around her neck holds the trophy and finally ladies and gentlemen natalia grossman will step up to the top spot of the podium gold medalist and the winner of the boulder world championship 2021 representing united states of america natalia grossman she's done it what a performance from her the gold medal around her next [Music] world champion will echo around this stadium i'm sure she'll stand there and think about all that hard work the training the dedication that goes into this moment for this special athlete please stand for the national anthem of usa state american [Music] natalie grossman is crowned world champion tears in her eyes as she saves this moment thank you so much for watching tonight everyone who has joined us we'll be back tomorrow ladies and gentlemen for the men's semi-final and finally [Applause] monday is the qualifying for the lead and then tuesday will be the lead semi-finals and finals so a packed couple of days of climbing still to come these three women for tonight will rest i'm sure we'll see natalia for sure back in the league competition the other two we'll see but wonderful performances all round so we call it for tonight thank you so much for watching it's been an incredible night of entertainment top performances and we will be back very soon for more action here in moscow [Music] you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 341,751

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Climb, Rock Climbing, Climbing Gym, IFSC, Competition Climbing, World Championships, IFSC World Championships, Climbing World Championships, Boulder, Bouldering, Moscow

Id: NAZycE9agy4

Length: 112min 10sec (6730 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 18 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/albenraph]

This might be my favorite bouldering final ever. Great setting, great climbing, great separation, results up in the air for almost every climber until their final attempts on the last boulder. Also every climber got to show their stuff with at least one top, and no boulder was a gimme. Wow.

[u/gregmasta]

Natalia is on FIRE. She’s performing her heart out and I love Brooke supporting her so much; it’s so heartwarming :) Really impressed by Moroni from Italy, I haven’t seen her climb much before but she was really impressive today!

[u/NAmj37]

Watching Brooke do the toe hook on the first problem was SO cool. What an athlete!

[u/gimpyracer]

the russian comentators just dont give a fuck

5 min in and already made sexist comments and said alberto isnt a great climber even tho he won the olympics

[u/HTCGM]

It's only two boulders in and the entire thing is a highlight reel. The ladies are killing it today.

[u/King_of_the_plebs420]

Natalia has been crushing it this year!

[u/Lwe12345]

Hopefully they fired the shit out of that camera man

[u/timmytissue]

What was the controversy about a objectifying shot in the semi finals? Did a camera man zoom in on a athletes ass or something?

[u/asddsd372462]

10 mins late so far