IFSC Climbing World Championships - Innsbruck 2018 - Combined - Finals - Men

[Music] good afternoon welcome back to Innsbruck everybody in the Riina's had a couple of minutes to catch their breath and we are underway with the men's combined final hymn we've just seen yeah Agarn Brett's current combined champion here in Innsbruck now it is the turn of six men to try and repeat that feat half of them are Japanese KY Harada to Monera sake in Kokoro Fujian they'll be joined in the final by three Europeans Jakob Schubert Adam Andra and Jana Hoya Charlie Bosco Mike Langley here to talk you through the final we've got three disciplines that make up a combine fire we've got speed followed by bouldering followed by lead the way the scores work is that you receive a ranking of 1 to 6 for each discipline so if for example you are second in the speed you are third in the bouldering and first in the lead your overall score is 2 for your second to the speed multiplied by 3 for your third in the bouldering x one feel first in the lead we're giving you a grand total of six minimum possible score would be one because it would diverse in all three disciplines one by one by one a total one and the maximum you could get is two 116 if your sixth on every discipline now how in the athletes presented to the crowd over on the women's side we had a few climbers who were increasingly good times on the speedwall over on the men's side the majority of these finalists whilst not speed specialists are very very quick so someone described this to me on the women's side they're all kind of competing to be the least bad on the speed on the men's side some very strong speaker I was in here including that man Samoan era sake yeah it's moving there exactly check his Instagram out see how quick he is around the wall back up shoot obviously been training the speed quite a lot as well as the recent video of him training in the big gym here in Innsbruck the national water and training centre it's Kai harder just about wiped away the tears after last night's podium sarony he remarked that he was in tears on the mats for a good half an hour or so rightly so such an emotional guy and then for the podium ceremony well yeah no just going through his routine one more time it was just almost laughing everything we're saying earlier you don't need to observe the speed rate but sometimes just going through your sort of routine your arm you see a lot of with the speed climbers backstage they had there to try and get the the muscles firing in the exact right sequence if you are watching climbing for the first time welcome this is speed climbing the first of the three disciplines 15 meter high wall 6 metres wide that overhangs by 5 degrees and this is a route that all the climbers know and practice on they know the routes off by heart however you can always find a way to go a bit quicker and there we see the current oiled record standing at five point four eight we're not expecting anyone to get probably within a second of that might be the fastest will get it's not about breaking World Records and in a final it's about beating the person next year so we will have three races first up tomorrow now sake against yuck of Schubert's then Yan Hoyer against Adam Andre then kokoro fuji against Kai Harada from those three races the three winners will progress and also the fastest loser so after this three races we're going to lose two climbers for progress to the semi-finals they'll then race off for a place in the big final which determines who's ranked first and is ranked second and the runners-up in the semi-finals will race off for third and fourth-place seven races in total there's Jakob Schubert only just missed out on the ball during semi-finals yesterday on the ball during finals yesterday and there having competed in the final same is true of that man there to monera sake of lead world champions what a moment that was in front of his home city proud and tomorrow now exactly the 2016 folder boiled champion [Applause] so yakov on the right - mower on the left window goes through runner up may still go through depending on the time we want the fastest loser from the three races to also progress 6.70 from - mower in the qualifying round to a seven point eight eight from jakob tamar on the left and he falls starts the fastest baton for the qualifiers tomorrow now sir is fall started and Jakob Schubert will go through high drama in the first second of the men's combined tomorrow no saki night you said Charley the favorite is out without even moving off of the floor well the problem was he moved off the floor a bit earlier than he should have done it's perhaps not the favor for the year combined overall that's it could well be but he was certainly the favors in the speed generally considered to be the fastest of the six climbers here on the speed while he's one of the very fastest non-specialists speed climbers false starts to get checked of Schubert they're a bit disappointing really it would have been really nice to see him on the wall see what he could put down in this combined competition and whilst he's fast mo I have to say suggests a lack of experience of competition because he's racing against someone who he knows is basically a second quicker that he doesn't need to risk a false start it doesn't need to go up full tail he just needs a nice steady clean run and he could have been almost certain that he would have beaten Jakob had he delivered that as it was fired up the blocks fall started to marinara sake out already in the speed climbing is going to be ranked 5th or 6th this is The Clash of the Titans who would've thought we were seeing Adam on reverse again higher in the spotlights on a speed war a few years ago the Olympics is beckoning here Olympics is beckoning as he say ya know against Adam Andhra and speed climbing forwards you would not imagine putting in the same sentence here we are yan hoya came through the 7.08 again one of the very quick and non-specialists Adam came through the 9.32 so yan on the left you would expect to take this one still got a pretty good start though yan didn't really need to go full tilt doesn't look if he's quite given the roots everything that's still clock in a pretty respectable 8.34 yeah we'll see that game but you see ya know he did to lay off the start he didn't make a tomorrow mistake just delayed it he knew he was gonna be quick and interestingly if you've got really good eyesight you'll see that a de menthe will use a slightly different sequence at the bottom of the room so like a free points on one of the holes hope you get to see the whole run again check out the monitor out on the right hand side slightly different sequence lower down we've already missed it yeah Hoya was looking really clean all the way up yeah it wasn't going at full pace yeah and it's almost a second and a half of his qualifying time and that's a little smarter than what we saw from Samoa understood who his opponent was Adam Andra possibly the greatest rock climber of all time and he's no speed climber Adam and Yan just need what he did of what was needed excuse me my track meet are you live for a very long but thoroughly enjoyable women's combined final for most of today now we're back with the Madam's Kokoro Fujinami our anunnaki Radha my watch to calculate how many hours ago less than 20 hours ago was being crowned told a world champion he don't went to the mark Platts in Innsbruck city centre had a fabulous podium ceremony which you and I went along for there was really the scenes down there massive crowd and by all stretch the imagination at ginormous party kicked off in Innsbruck last night for Kai Harada plus the silver medalists and the bronze men this crack of a sonic especially enjoying himself John munch on doing his dad dance moves on the podium as well jeong-hwan Sean's dad dance moves Wow special I mean know if I'm in a position to criticize your dancing things about let's just put it that way but that was terrible but anyway it was kaya on top of the podium and somehow he's 19 hours late we're gonna go to a marathon of climbing here is now on the right kokoro Fugees on the left i thought we had a fall star but now we have a clean stuff both record of Fuji is almost certainly good to take this on but he stalled at uber tie solve again and recovered to take it in eight point nine zero nine point two eight there's a good law tie yeah good speed bracelets went up both time has had a moment I slipped to the stark ocurro's going really well then completely missed his footstep halfway up step another look neck-and-neck at the beginning this guy slip have a new Kouros slip comes there his right foot went way out to the right to know where that was going for a second slight lack of experience and a slip at the top as well when he got a bit nervous that Kai was coming up behind him so Kai Harada will go through as the fastest loser nine point two eight Adam undergone a nine point six one and tomorrow's narrow sake false started so Adam Andre although we as I've said a few times not used to seeing him on the speed wall there's only about 4/10 of a second off going through to the semi-finals albeit from their starting grid of six but we saw in the women's event the whole thing basically got turned on its head from what we were expecting because of the speed early on so it's going to be Jakob Schubert against Kai Harada and then yan Hoyer against kakora Fuji tomorrow and our sake is going to be ranked sick and Adam Andhra is going to be fifth coming off the speed so sorry and you're gone Brett she went through after the speed in fifth and still managed to take away the over a win so all is not lost for Andra you can see to be honest I couldn't quite believe it himself Schubert has not done more than two meters of climbing so far it's just some replays of what went down in the first runs through the biggest guys in climbing going head-to-head and that runs seem to enjoy themselves just pleased to get some tops to us I think out of oddness please not to be sick yeah I mean it's not in any way a criticism I think he's the the best outdoor climber that's ever lived but he is not a speed climber and to not come six it's actually a strange as it might sound not a bad result he's not been training speed that long and he's going to finish faith what one very interesting element of this is when you look down our start list to marinara sake yeah cops uber Yan Hoya a demonic aura Fujiko Harada they can all do bouldering and lead very very well there's no one we'd say yeah these are boulderer admittedly someone like yan hoya we think of it more as a ball drippity spinning lead finals before Jakob Schubert's when World Cups in both disciplines Adam Andres 1d World Championships in both disciplines tire are as a boulder world champion but he's also been going really well in the lead World Cups so yeah one thing that does do you can never look is it does in many ways when the Olympic format was announced it does isolate the speed specialist socially they've got any opportunity as equal as anybody else to train the other disciplines but lead and Boulder do a lot more hand-in-hand speed does many of the participants it's a lot easier to make up ground training speed from nothing than training lead or Boulder because you can learn the route it's not just it's not quite so much physical strength acquired so much cerebral that you can learn it quite quickly semi-finals underway you a consumer on the left higher honor than reach the crown building champion on the right get consumer the lean world champion on the left is very tight [Applause] say I'm absolutely gobsmacked to see the green light come about Sheba's name they didn't have that at all all the way up Chi Harada was the best fascinating to see that again so so close hundreds I think it was in the end have another look this is a brilliant racism speed climbing it is very best both climbers clean runs all the way up the aperture but in the top bird starts really powering it and it was just a touch on the buzzer 7.62 and the right don't you love it how sport work sometimes the Innsbruck 2018 lead world champion on the left against the in from 2018 bolder champion on the right on the speed wall and there's 10th of a second in it yeah tip of the hat to the route centers excuse me being a route service beaver was not difficult tip of the hat to the climbers for adopting the lead speed and bolder format and getting on their ends and performing really really well that was proper speed climbing it said use some idea the men's world record five points for eight the women's 7.32 so these climbers although they're not speed specialists and we've said it repeatedly I know means slow on the speed wall either this is Yan Hoya now on the left closest to the camera as we currently look at it and then kakora Fuji on the right both of these climbers very very serious boulders pretty handy on a lead wall as well I have to say of all the athletes who are gunning for this combined for me yunhai saving the most seriously he wants this no doubt about it yeah complained about having to Train speed you can just see what the rules are the same for everyone yunhai or as you say he's been training the speed row but he just had a little stumble down there on the left in Bakura Fugees be much cleaner but it slipped right it's up 7.14 for yah neue Kagura Fuji repeats guy hardest trick on the right-hand lane they're both the Japanese athletes were going really well on the right hand side and somehow close it back to get the green light about the name 7.14 again Hoya is another great race Mike as you said Yan who has really got into the training for combine whenever people have said to me well I don't mind the speed climbing blah blah blah to say well thanks the rules you want to be in the Olympics you got to do all three so either train them or something planing and Yan hire no complaints of him I think he rejoices speed climb and whenever I chats him he seems very enthused by it and there when you enjoy something you tend to get good at it he's getting very good 7.14 that top foot oh the final moves but kokoro there you had it in the bag all the way up to that point you can see on the replay i know he can quite believe it he knew he was a little bit was behind until the final move he had the better consistency on the route no mistakes at all see Burton yan who I go through Japan playoff third and fourth if you've been watching the IFS sea for a long time just sit down somewhere because I'm about to say that Yan Hoya and Jakob Hoover are facing off in a speed climbing final it's not a situation they're who we've seen before but such is the nature of the Olympic format combined and those two have really embraced it and quick x from both yak up a smidgen over seven and a half seconds and that 7.14 yan hoya so Kai Harada is going to be third in this be sorry well race for third of the speed climb against kakora Fuji this is a replay of Jana hiya against Kokoro Kokoro had it Yan had a couple of what - tumbles that being one of them and then kokoro completely missed with the left hook to the end because with the speed you can't leave anything to chance that you just have to give it everything you've got and hope for the best chance of making mistake percentage chance for making mistake is so high you just have to accept the last part of the game I think as well it's easy to aim for the buzzer and you're not at the buzzer until you've done the last movement if you start thinking about that buzzer is perhaps part core of food you did before you do the last move you can fluff your lines he just slipped with a left foot so here is the small final this is the competition to be ranked third coming out of the speed climbing it's gives them insight to what good friends they are Yan higher and Jakob zero we've just seen a shot through them on the big screen here a backstage comparing notes about the race of the big five and it's all Japan in the small fire or Kai Harada anchor Cora Fuji climbers will take their compulsory rest now the Korres victory just come off the wall we saw Petra in small final earlier on they need to have the compulsory rest periods I thought that come back out and race again so much power in client involved in speed climbing do need to just let the tank refuel very briefly before coming back out doorway there is 1/4 food she took part in these moldering final last night without some taking home a medal tyre artists took part in the bouldering final last night and won it I can't believe that fatigue is not going to be an issue both these climbers yesterday did a boulder and semi final then a bouldering final that finished at half-past nine at night and then went to the mark Platts Kai Harada will have got the biggest shot of adrenaline of his life at about quarter to ten when he got presented with his medal and now they've got to do a speed final a bouldering final and the lead route I can't believe that fatigue is not going to be a huge issue and that's something in the Olympics we won't have to quite the same extent carrier ardour now on the basket kora Fujian the right all Japan in the small farm looked like a possible false start kogoro's is a very fast start and each path through the middle section as well these things to get that sorted 7.23 for him Goro went again on the right hand he was on that just a second ago doesn't slip this time he did slip against the empire but full of food you have to say looks like in a very talented speed climber it's obviously been training it hard his technique is great it's mr. foot all right the bottom there just a left foot slip didn't seem to favor so much got back into his routine which is so difficult to do when you have a slip and then to start nailing it all the way to the top it was a quick run in the end seven points in three weeka Kuro may be pleased that I think he is one to watch and it's mean in the future as I alluded to earlier because so much of the speed is technique cerebral studying the room Meitner analyzing technique a huge amount confessors doing evil and studying in course every half time you can get quicker check the thing about training combined though is how much times you want to put into the speed compared to how much time you need to train for Polydor and leads the thing is when we get to the Olympics if you really are off the pace in the speed you can be playing catch-up when you're basically backing yourselves why the wind or come second maybe third on the remaining two disciplines it's a big-ass I think anybody that's underestimated the importance of speed will see the error of their ways as we have more and more of these combined competitions look at faces of these guys both these guys badly great drama here so far men's combined so on the Left yan on the right [Music] [Applause] Yanni's going to take this one in seven point six nine [Applause] unfortunately for you but you had to go and give it 110% realistically to be Tian Hoya he is the slower qualifier coming into the speed final yeah no it was the favorite in that race realistically so yeah come Schubert had to go all out and when you go all out the speed the chances published is very high yeah I think on average you'd say Yan high is a good half a second quicker on the speed wall so yeah copy you he needed the performance of his lifetime and ideally whilst he wouldn't wish ill on his good friend Yayoi could have done with Yun having a little slip somewhere on the Reuben yan brings it home given that yam is a multiple ball to work at winner and former boulder woke up overall champion first place in the speed is a pretty amazing start he's going to take some catching because we've got his favorite discipline coming up next yeah and he didn't make the ball to final so he's had their extra days rest as well yeah me remember whether the semi-final yesterday degreed he was finished at one three o'clock kai and kokoro were finished it nine o'clock so he was climbing yesterday yam but an awful lot less team Germany pretty happy with that one so there we can see yeah Noah ranked first in the speed Jakub Schubert second yeah no it did put down the quickest time of the entire event that's a well-deserved winner 7.14 in one of his earlier rounds his second race against kokoro good times for ya know you last year he was just about getting under 8 seconds I think that progress is gonna be pleading pretty pleased with who's been entering the Spieth quite a while now slowly improving taking a couple of years to improve his craft so up next we'll have observation for the boulder and the climbers just have a standard view rest period however but I've longing to be out on to the ballroom Ollie's it felt like a marathon for the women and men are just getting it underway just let you know while we were off air as we watch some replays climbers against cancer made a 25-thousand at sterling donation to the Tyrolean Cancer Research Institute climbers against cancer course founded by the much-loved and make much missed John Ellison and two more donations planned in 2018 having already made two so far so sadly because we have the commercials on Austrian TV didn't see that donation live a big shout-out to climbers against cancer and we never make any apologies for plugging them yeah I would say if you want to get involved in plans against cancer you can get into the website by yourself t-shirt buy yourself a hoodie all the proceeds go to directly to the chosen charities of plans against cancer climber's against cancer.org if you do want to pick up a t-shirt and you should so let's have a look at yam can't see you where which raised this was and gives on the rise in the vinyl so certainly nice classroom this might have been in 7.14 I think he can't improve on that as well as hesitation taking three persons actually it wasn't one of his quickest but you still got it done eight-point free for you at that time it would have been a bit this point to blacks you can go over a quicker one second quicker see on the big screen this is what everybody in the audience can see bold of all there in the camouflaged lights and the climbers are making their way onto the stage for the boulder observation just like that speed is done and we move on to the bouldering the order of the climbers which they come out gets re calibrated after the speed we'll be out first when it comes to the bar during followed by our mantra yeah and who are still having a trying to get a bite to eat in there such as the nature of this format ahead to the Olympics of how quickly the Olympics could get away from me if you're not careful we got underway here by my watch 23 minutes ago the speed is done and we're on the ball during so light we saw an atom on without a monitor for example in the bouldering semi finals yesterday fluffed his lines of Boulder number one and then his semi-final was over the Olympics it would seem from looking after what we've seen today could be over almost before his good news he could be 25 minutes into the Olympic final and would put yourself in a very uncomfortable position that said young yagam Brett was fifth in the speed and ended up winning the overall but yeah we'd have fought the men's competitions a little bit more open I would say monster Jess appeals is fantastic Talent salsa was brilliant all the way through but the men's is wide open a challenge anybody to pick a winner here today really first look at men's number one then as we move on to the border war in the center of the wall big sloping pinches all the way up this border the zone hold on the right hand side in the yellow theme of the week here has been sort of dynamically some big triple dinos multi hand diners some just sort of like one hand release moves and a foot catch this move is gonna have a bit of a pop out to the right to be honest with you you've had no time to of these serve these borders up close and personal I think it's worth being honest at this stage there's no time for that but we will do our absolute very best down here in the commentary box yeah we had 10 minutes after the woman's father the division of labor you know I ran to get lunch my got a quick look at the boulders a very brief mr. looks didn't really have time to chat to the roof setters so we're on citing these boulders as well it's figuring them out joint observation as ever the climbers get two minutes to look at each one on Masek and prepare notes should they wish cause a bit of a language barrier team Japan somewhat inevitably sticking together during the observation these team do speak a little bit of English just trying to I'm guessing is the language being used here between yin yak of an atom atom I was very impressed actually in the press conference the other day answered in German to a lot of the questions also speaks obviously his native Czech speaks French and Italian and possibly Spanish as well on him it's trying to read the climbers arms here as to the mood for me this is a rollover to start a tow cat to jump out to the yellow zone Holbrooks has got an additional thumb catch on it and a possibly a flip with the left hand or just have double down into the zone hold times going to tell with that one but yeah cops seem to be motioning sort of miming moves arms that is going to be a catch back with the left hand but they seem to have changed the rhythm of their arms a little bit into a double into the zone hold after the zone holder got a very confusing sequence after that there there's a blue hajeck go up to there it's a dual texture one with a screw on screwed into the side of it for me somehow you got to end up with your left hand in that and I'm not quite sure how that is gonna be possible lots of tow hooks out on the far right potentially big sloping volume up on for the right hand we saw that same hold in men's number for some athletes actually skipped it on that occasion and a nice big horn to finish Hugh the he's got the horn jokes there's good Korra Fuji cameras still observing that Boulder now they move across to the far right as with the women the third boulders on the slab it's three degrees off vertical this section of the wall here at Innsbruck so the climbers are allowed to touch all of the starting holes but they're not allowed to touch any of the other holds the starting holds clearly denoted by the yellow tape that before bits of tape denoting where your form limbs have to go on occasion the route set is will specify you must put this hand here or that hand there but generally they just leave it to the climber so if you wanted to start doing a handstand and the splits and putting your feet above your hands is normally more than welcome to do so each clan will get four minutes to attempt each Boulder tom is still studying away comparing notes Adam Andra had such a nightmare in the semifinals yesterday by his standard 17th in a world championship is a little short of a disaster well we had a nightmare on this side of the wall as we're on the slab it was exactly here about 24 hours ago not far off to the minute yeah if you follow him on social media bitterly disappointed says that he's got a long way to go to catch up with these other guys in terms of a modern style of competition climbing by interesting this men's number three a really big stand up move off a pair of matching starting hand holds his own hold high up on its own pretty much non-existent sort of yellow better paint for a zone hold up and Wright does need to be controlled and then a bit of extreme walking out to the left on to men's in the fall and this is a slightly different Bowl that's what we've seen throughout the competition here climbing Jharkhand coming up for you big red volume up on the right they're gonna cover you which basically means you're gonna wrap the meat of your hand round it as hard as possible known as a guppy and climbing it's probably known as something else in a different language no doubt stick with that for now pair of big horns down for the feet really wrestling out left a bit of a wrestling match this one some of them indicating whether they can go up and drop down to those horns be an interesting one to be on it's where the first is I couldn't quite figure out what on earth was going on some of the competitors are looking pretty confused here as well interesting to try and listen in to a bit of a conversation we visit Japan every year as part of the IFS sea tour yeah just an interest in the insight Jakob and Adam indeed communicating in English yeah what's interesting about this boulders is Jakob was is is just about sit there he's motioning that potentially he's gonna be heading down to the two ginormous horns that sort of sends a low center of the wall and then roll back up high whereas the Japanese are sort of motioning that that's gonna be for a pair of heel hooks and you're gonna really so sit frog-like on those two feet for balancing out left be really interesting bold of this big arrow shapes volumes they're a pair of them the two blockers on the underside due to the angle change just making sure there's no loose edges of volumes anybody could crimp or get spiked on don't wait for that one that's gonna be really interesting off the wall and still comparing notes [Music] hollering round in the women's was brilliant and really looking forward to the men's current standings after the speed climbers go in reverse order for how the speed went from to timon her sakyo be out first only be added on dirt then karateka Cora Fuji a cubit and yan feier we talked about it quite a lot on the women's side but because of the combined competition there is an added element of tactics as we have a look at our bouldering wall I was human just a second 18 meters wide for an hour meters high over on the right we've got the slab which will house Boulder three three degrees off vertical there it is then 13 degrees overhanging the bulk of the walls 20 degrees overhanging there's a steep second box to the left that's 35 2.15 metres true zijn from top to bottom over on the left I was just gonna say Mike about the tactics Janna I think has got such a big advantage coming out last generally it's felt that coming out last in the bouldering final has some advances some disadvantages but he can look up and think well I went great in the speed no-one's got this Boulder so I might not give it quite a hundred percent and risk injury risk further fatigue we talked about it in the women's there's so many tactical possibilities but I think going last in the combined bouldering is an advantage yeah there is a big screen here as much as they not supposed to be the thing around is to look around scuse me definitely have a look at that and figure out what's going on and let you see if you can figure out in real-time as well exactly how many attempts about they can reach study it while they're on the wall this is Boulder one they're the starting holds flashing away and there's the yellow top hold on the right zone is yellow top this yellow bit of a recurring theme here the roof Seth is trying to make it as clear as possible when the climates are competed they're in the middle of the stage on the bouldering they'll move over to the left of the lead wall at the left hand of the two routes you just seen the women's spiral concluded on the right hand side of the wall just go back to that point you're making about Janet advances charleen that is one element and there's so many elements that are kind of unknown in terms of tactics in this Olympic combining the moment the first fairly big main major ific combined competition and it's really interesting for us to try and analyze it you guys at home zone analyze what's going on but it's interesting watching carving house an opinion or is it better to come out first in their folding phones it better to come out last nobody's got any idea about the combined if all of this is new to everyone athletes route setters commentators we know how the climbing works we know how the individual disciplines burn but how they work with each other is the real unknown if you just watching this for the first time welcome to the IFS see this is bouldering the 2nd discipline in this combined final throughout every year we have six or seven World Cups in each of the disciplines speed lead and bolder than once in a couple of years we have a massive world championships which is what we've had here in Innsbruck which is concluding with this an Olympic format combined final it's the first time we've seen all of the world's best climbers competing in this format and it is a journey into the unknown to Monera sake straight up to the zone most important score for a climbers how many the ball to say top if then each Boulder has a zone hold it can see clearly marked and if they're tied on topped it comes down to how many zones they gap still tied it comes out two attempts but two MOA straight up to the zone no problem there yeah twinning aratake Boulder world champion from 2016 missed out on the folder finals somehow by not doing the boulder number three yesterday I think it was and this one is a really hard set of basic pinches with a bit of a dynamic move out to the right that is the hole that he's failed to get that time to cleanly additional little thumb catch underneath just improve that hole just enough to hopefully make the move possible so two and a half minutes for Samoa big jewel two extra pins on the right hand to start trying to work a thumbs there summers gonna be out for redemption a little bit here really high left foot knock that's worked well for him and there's the jump move out to the right half his time remaining four minutes for each climate pinch disciple two-foot release seen that move a number of times here they obviously slightly different different hand holds different volume to land for the foot in climbing basically there's never same move twice always a slight variation except in speed these roots have been individually crafted by a big team of Route settings over the last two and a half weeks yeah man who has loved Switzerland chief oldest setter [Music] - boa shaking out with one minute ten left through the ringer already by me own inaccurate Akiane Gucci on the women's side and with one minutes ago they're watching to Monera sake it was quite theme in the women's final the farmers had problems with their skin inevitably after such a brutal ten days of competition particularly intense last 24 hours for most of these climbers fine astronauts dying moved there in the feet double undercuts for the fleet start no way you can stand on top of those volumes smelling this time then I'm sure you go back into a toe he does now it's all about this quick flick in the foot lands way surely at that time unfortunately miss forward not quite after was 2016 levels of strength this week here into it really struggling in these time it is out ten seconds were left on the clock not enough for tomorrow he heads back only the zone to his name on that occasion let's have a look here we go straight up to the zone no problem it's gonna be quite a while at noon this went out to the right not too many static moves here this week got to maintain the height with the foot there's a really high foot volume actually a lot of times or it says a foot the landing foothold in there quite a natural position but that one seems quite high it's means when he hit the pinch on the right I think the fool quite hard on it at a month on the other hand it's out the blood here on the bowling roll after failing so badly yesterday in the semi-final yeah only top to the boulders and he needed for to go through to the final crowd and he would denied the opportunity to see him alone on the in spirit walk in a final now he gets his shot in the combine he was fifth in the speed now his four minutes begins he wasn't quite sure what all the various beeps meant you can see that on the black holes three bits of tape on black holes and a fourth on that blue one up and right as to control the starting hand Holtz can't just slap them he has to actually control them now he's heading out towards the zone old liked a mower no problem at all with that ops for the heel hook on the left fur that might put him in a much more stable position reaches out all of us about say reaches out easily does actually reach the hole easily but still has to make the pick release and sometimes releasing he'll can be a little bit more violent than releasing a total interesting reaction from out and real out of Andhra came back down onto the mat smiled and nodded his head as if said I can do that one yeah its foot on that right hand bottom to stop hit on the inside edge rather than flat through the sole on his foot [Music] 2:40 left now for Adam I still only had one attempt on the max over a minute and a half [Music] let's say I really don't think we can underestimate the effects of climbing in a final last night for kokoro chi but time will tell but skin the energy you don't sleep as well and you're buzzing so much to think about it all he gives him a disadvantage he amazed if I hardly got any sleep whatsoever last nigh and they've been in isolation since this morning as well a long time behind the wall the only sentence he brought his mattress and pillow with it we've got some more kit this morning two minutes now for Adam on they're going for different unless you try to swap the out for a slightly softer rates your finger not working ward out on the first go down the mat so don't see another pair of shoes so presumably came out yeah focus on his attempt now this is number three for Adam so he was cruising to the zone last time and this time he's got the swing control nicely Adam Andra lining it up for the first top of this combined final bordering there he was so disappointed after 75 hours yesterday and that's what it means but I'm just putting on a show once again at world champion Jim he's a better climber than years of gymnastics it still turned out of temper enthusiasm that was brilliant you can see how much it means to him after his previous attempt he nearly completed really just a case of getting it down so much passion whenever one to climb to absolute pleasure to have on the stage he's got a really good shoe for Hill working on the left side and a really good one for smearing on the right side different stiffnesses in shoes he also you've read the folder in the observation period deciding what the best tactics were of the shoes almost I thought slid out all that finished on for a second yeah quite for a quite a while before fully controlling it this is what it looked like from about as close as you can get without being sitting on the whole bang bang right landed just before the left you think he's up for this betty is Adam Andra second in the leader world championships last weekend and there's 17th in the bouldering he wants to make amends his car harada less than 20 hours after the momentous final is back on innsbruck Matt's path we must be wondering if last night actually happened very unusual situation to find yourself in where you win a World Championship in the next afternoon you back in the same arena climbing on the same wall the songs are very stoic on the medal ceremony has been really common a to wonder if he was wondering about the combines though he'll save the celebrating for tonight and last night was all about getting back to business so it strung out to the right this is what they saw him last night incredible power we're gonna try releasing off the tow master as it was last night flash for him they can't do it again happy now he's starting to reach over himself he didn't seem to be joining himself secured the wind the Camerata might be on a pier her procession here on the boulders last night was not a fluke it certainly was not same right shoe as Andhra was wearing it just hit that right hand with so much more control than entendre it was really moving at speed when he hit the foothold with the right foot by Gerardo just floated across hilltop hold with just the one hand before controlling it and bringing up the left hand 19 years old he said he had save the celebrating for tonight Mike's only just old enough to buy a beer he's absolutely crushing in Innsbruck bouldering Charlie Bosco Mike Langley here live in the Olympia world we just had the women's combined file we now have the men's yan hoya came out on top in the speed climb in colorado is currently leading the way in the bouldering bout next will be kakora fuji areas [Applause] last night in the final we've got a safe toy Gerardo is tired he sent himself a real favor he wasn't on the mats long this time quickly fired up that Boulder disappears again probably got back on his mattress in isolation got his pillow and it's getting in over 20 minutes of shots are you they couldn't get the earplugs in and have a quick snooze I think when you're 19 did you don't need sleep do you good to go kuru not brought up the left foot for that move happy to pounce between the two holds Goro sighs oh and everyone's got to the zone on their first attempt on this Boulder cuyana got to the top good core it just needs to find a way to release and does so are we about to see the second Japanese flash of this Boulder in the space of a couple of minutes we are that's good for piece of cake really in the end opted for the left drop knee before turning into a toe in the same position he's happy without enjoying themselves out there at the moment in the men's combined to be somehow Chinese feels like a lower pressure to event compared to the individual disciplines at this stage leading up to Tokyo birthing next year hopefully 2020 is giving a completely different yeah well next year we've got an Olympic selection event we've also got the World Championship so this format is going to be increasingly common and the prize is going to become increasingly valuable one thing of note I didn't have time to make it back from chapter 2 yen Nygaard Brett's at the end of the women's final she was clearly pleased to have one that she was anything like as a most most she was when she won the bulb in the world championship that is just perhaps a symptom of the back but we're just trying out this Olympic format for the first time and it doesn't yet have the Q dots of a winning an individual discipline in an eye for C World Championships obviously at Tokyo 2020 this is how the medals have been decided but I was surprised that the ANU was quite as calm as she was I don't know if that came across in the interview yeah I think having said all that between both of us would just sort of agreed on the situation try and tell that's a Jakob Schubert and Moyer if one of those wins it I think they'll be trying to lift the roof off tonight during the lead final yeah here is Jakob Schubert penultimate climb Tom's the boulder it's been flashed twice by kaya a quorum timon era sake couldn't do it an atom Andra did it on his third joke here goes yeah off the lead world champion 20 time ifs see world cup winner [Music] he's got while on his golden well is it about to see food flash in a row [Applause] from Jakob try relatively haka and in terms of the fear factor but must be nervous energy you have to kind of dispel going for that finishing hold it's quite a long way and there's a huge push so as you jump your left arm on Mantle's really hard take that's hot hold brushes on now for yan hui gonna know this bolt is getting lengthier tops coming quick through fast now it's getting absolutely hammered this Boulder tomo an hour exactly the 2016 Bolden world champion came out couldn't do it since then I don't think anyone's been out longer than 40 seconds it's it's been a revolving door of climbers onto the mats onto the top hold it back the other set out the other side of the stage here comes yeah Noah what the speed climbing alarms last hashtag ifs CW CH if you want to get in touch on Twitter Charlie Bosco Mike Langley here with our second combined file of the day we had the women this morning and early afternoon only finished it 20 past two and a half two we're underway with the men wasting no time here in Innsbruck [Music] there's yunhai you can see the clock ticking away behind them it's got four minutes coal has been flashed three times yeah 2014 overall Boulder World Cup winner and he won't flash it so already lost a tiny bit of ground to his rivals got plenty of time to find the top though you have to say he was looking pretty big in that space that he got himself into their core food you didn't move the left foot up and just jump from low down VIN Papa would be squeezed to bring the left foot up getaway might just have another look at that himself as well let's go for a jump don't you happy with the conditions on there at the moment you know you can feel around that hole where every fancy because it is a starting hold [Music] again not too happy in that position yes at 2:45 now for Yunho as you said it's a bit of a pet theme for me but I've interests me I'm not going to apologize I'm interested in the difference in taller and shorter climbers and as you said yeah that's pretty big is each other over that left foot of a good example of why just being tall isn't always an advantage I remember when he would in 2017 in Munich amazing evening might you were there for that as well I seem to remember in the Coventry box we're joined by Anna story you who your little too starstruck to think about anything else but the an one there and this is what across the zone before us you it just drops it moving out right yes let's see there was talk online that Yan won because he was tall and there's no doubt that a lot of the bold as a Munich Susan in that night but as I said to in the live interview afterwards no no no it evens out don't because Yan kind of said well maybe if I wasn't tall I wouldn't know once and I must have never to take it when they go your way and accept it sportingly when they don't and that's a good example it's not always easier for tall climbers he had a lot more a lot more human to cram into a small space on that attention the bother he didn't really come to after the first move right had on those own hobbles really in the sweet spot was really low it was always shaking on the next blueprint well I would have been very surprised at the massive action X right I know he's got quite their works do here left and was trying really really hard on that one there's tire Arden it must just feel that last 24 hours gonna dream for Chi Harada yeah that's the movie mean it did it slightly differently that type it still looks a bit of a squeeze getting those long legs in against the wall and I'm really unhappy on the pinches here tonight it's just doesn't seem to be getting the contact between the skin and the pinch that's all and that's interesting Mike I don't think if this was a normal ball during final and yeah knew that this was it all or nothing I don't think he'd have bailed on that Boulder you might have just shaken out and had Rouen really good bird as it is he knew he topped the speed climbing he news finding the ball to really hard so why waste the energy you've still got three more boulders and the lead root to cup that time he didn't table to get his left foot high Eva just tried to go in the most powerful method keeping the left foot down to agree on that charlie sensible to walk off the stage if you're not getting on with that style of holiday yeah the subtleties of the tactics in in bouldering never cease to amaze me anyway but you add in the fact that farming in a combined format across three disciplines they can seem more complex and as I say I can't help thinking that in a bowl the final yeah Hoya might I just thought right I'm gonna pull these holes of this wall or top the boulder and there and that time to store I just leave that one there remember of course they've observed the boulders they he knows what's to come so he might have looked at boulders two three and four and like to look at them a lot more than he liked number one we don't know what he made it in during observation this is card a flashing the boulder as yet know who Schubert also flashing it if you wonder what the little felt-tip marks are on the holes and the volumes by the way when we get the close-up the root set is preset these boulders that we've set them in two weeks preceding this competition and then when they want to put the boulders back on the wall they just line up the marks that they've already made on both the volumes and the wall hopefully trim straight back to the zone hold again the zone has got a little screw on addition you might better see in that graphic there's a little additional fun catch right on the underside nearly plumb in the middle of that yellow zone hold so I think there could be a bit of a double jump down to that you seem to find there a lot of pacing around all the women sitting very static miniatures and getting rid of their nervous energy or pacing back and forth [Music] and there it is there'll be over on the far left of the wall coming up through the steepest section and then pulling onto the 20 degree overhang above but if fascinating see the techniques employed on this folder on to the right hand side of two volumes quite following right down with the toes there is Samoa doesn't quite look himself I couldn't find the top on number one no shame on that yeah no I couldn't either but amoA just quiet have that assured air about it that he did a couple of years ago he found his mojo for the past couple of seasons he won the World Cup in Moscow back in April but that's really been the exception rather than the norm that it was in 2016 let's see what he can do here on number two 3:45 on the clock at he said self bashed up to the zone no problem of the first Boulder not a comfy way of holding that left hand credible finger strength so much power there from tomorrow now he's gonna swing into the toe hooks will he crafts up to this next harder Willie shoulder it out [Music] this is more likely tomorrow we know and love watching oh it's brilliant [Applause] we're talking about two men there exactly from a couple of years ago that is him it is very best place to mow earth style all the way through just such impressive movement every single harness hugely powerful mood to begin with that foam catch and after this point just watch the movement in his body constantly moving flickered between the holds making my new adjustments on the fly great news compressing with his left toe their bumps again up to the right I know it into this point it was no doubt the speed that he moves on the wall is incredible when he the left hand across where's the move I could watch this one all day he swings her left hand across and flicks his hips in just it was almost like that the movement traveled down his body it was kind of like trapped in a width where it just moves along the way but it's top up his body moved and then the Boston did as well as he and higher in Jakob Schubert comparing moves not carrying a lot of timber either off judging by that shot is Adam Andre does bring two pairs of shoes out he's got the same combination as the previous Boulder it's obviously not as confident that he's ready right this time because last time he came out with the shoes already on his feet and didn't bring the spares we've got the Addams Family theme tune up half proud half depress that are recognizing it very happy to be strange wonderful DJ and now he's underway we'll be well aware of what tomorrow is just done Adam [Music] [Applause] crowd responding well throughout and they know they're watching one of the Great's here slightly different method it would seem to tomorrow he's going to go director but amateur to that board any was usually the same technique customer in the top right hand hold check coach is checking exactly how many seconds that was yeah shot at the hole and then mantle up into the bottom have to say that seemed like a pretty obvious bear food something about that top right hand volume this week is not people don't like it they're not using it got skipped in the semi-finals it's getting skipped on the same bit of all here in the combined final yeah we saw you and they crew to trying to skip to holds albeit unsuccessfully on the last Boulder in the semi-finals yesterday Adam is completely ignored that last body volume is put in there just ignores it but great Tom from here we talked talking earlier out solar in short supply miss Adams extraordinarily natural flexibility through his joint his knees hit his elbow meant they're getting that left foot up basically in front of his chest just didn't bother him at all his car here are Dan out for the world champion flashed the first Boleyn atom Andhra goes into the provisional lead to tops on the first two balls for him Kyle Harada Kokoro Fujian consumer it could match Adam and passing on attempts so I really dominated Barwood at number one seen this pot to go down quite easily now certainly not easy as I climb though assessing his different options who's gonna go for the big release now ghostwritten can't keep the left hand on it looks like his little finger was just coming off there a little bit as he was releasing first time he's fallen off a boulder today / the first one looked like a big move for him it was actually just crimping on the left-hand side of that blue volume it is a big release since goodness I thought this movie was gonna be a lot harder than the first two climbers actually made it look Samoa did the most extraordinary put out face Dimitra [Applause] it's great having you along Mike I was trying to think of it nice polite way of describing something then you give it the doctor the shipyard worker terms from the if out streets of the roof setting world tried looking for a completely different method that time so background on the maps bit of a rethink required at Team Japan watching on nervously coach cam I've been employed a lot this week yeah I've enjoyed those shots I have yes right especially as you see the people concern laser a bit of Jim we've got one team at the front who's celebrating their climb and the opposite team behind sort of just not even quite sure where to look checking in for shoelaces never sit behind the coaches you'll be on TV a lot more than you want to be so hey goes Kai like we've seen kind a couple of World Cup finals before Innsbruck err and in used Championships and stuff but because of how well he's gone in this championships he's been on the livestream a lot more than we used to these really interested to see more of how he moves he makes quick movements look slowly almost looks as if we're watching a replay with it just turned down to nought point nine speed Japanese team have that as a feature of their training as worthy they really do specialize in quick moves and dynamic move to think that's why one of the contributing factors to Kai's win last night things found a very good at dynamic climbing high does it just because of the the smooth way in which he moves quick movements don't look that quick he's got a lovely smooth almost effortless diving style it's been really enjoyable to watch it more and more on the street yeah I think it definitely that amends for last night I haven't seen that go watch that fantastic final tired not finding the neffeteria at all he's not happy on this left hand at all so it's a motor wrapping it Ondra just gonna held really okay there at the moment maybe think it's finally starting to kick in can't help but think it must be stay clear of that start sign here we go again and here he goes of the right hand wasn't far off I was about there don't think you have another go but he will he can hold that with one hand it would be absolutely ridiculous yeah the thing also would be absolutely crucial because he's not going to get a top now timewise but the zone might bug him up a position or two in the rankings five seconds just to kill the zone here I don't think the judges are giving that soul is being controlled but again thinking about the Olympic formats and how the combined will work if you're in a bouldering final do you think Wow fifth or sixth it doesn't matter in the combined it really matters so I think as we see more of these combined competitions we might see climbers who were currently fifth and six even on the lap go on the last Boulder and just want to tear it off the wall to try and get his own because fifth might make all the difference so Kai deciding to have another girl on the boulder it takes just finish around the bouldering somehow it got a scrape stuff off the map I think right now got to try and go up a route it's gonna be one of the hardest things I've ever tried creating wise it's gonna be in the region of 8c or above I just tried speed and bouldering it's insane you talk to most climbers the day after they've done the bouldering World Cup or World Championship semi-final and final absolutely knackered I don't I don't see how fatigue is not a huge disadvantage here for Kai Gerardo kakora Fuji but I should say in the Olympics they will have a lot more rest time in this we want to have this situation this is a unusual circumstances but yeah I find it hard to believe that they can possibly be as fresh and powerful as three climbers who didn't take part in the final I suppose one level or is that everyone in this final did at least take part in the boulder semi-final [Music] so really click on the speedball did really well in the bowl to finalize that does go for the meat wrap on the left hand similarly big release of the hill servitor of coulter if it's four minutes elapsed sylvie our carbanion to come the austro-german pair got a cracking start in the speed climbing Jakov I think certainly would have settled for second Jam probably fancied his chances in the speed climbing in Kenora food use currently on the ballroom warm does all that big move at the raya hand and he's a pretty fake unit is well kokoro beauties a lot a lot of weight to hand on that one and on a pretty poor hole will he use the penultimate hole I think he's going to he's not even look at the top should have had a word with Madame Andre you don't need that one that was great the way he held that right hand zone hole was crazy so much pinch strength just hold it catch the release and then this pick I'm really enjoying this section of totes moved really fascinating as to what the climbers got to do with their feet see Tamara just really working the feet bicycle in between the two volumes but with soap on the right foot not really a hope in hell that he's gonna hold that top hold of that speed I really like this Boulder I think it's interesting it's been flashed a couple of times but kakora Fujiko do it when the world champion bouldering cont do it you know it's hard it's just interesting there's different methods it's powerful it requires coordination there's different ways of topping out it's a really good Boulder and so far Kokoro Fujinami top on it he did find a zone on his second attempt he's gunning now for the top he's had another long rest I think this is quite clever from Kokoro Fujinami Boulder like this physically you can't just keep pulling on and trying got to try and find a bit of rest time just in his rest period there I wonder if he's even thinking about the boulder is just trying to get everything back is that something he's gonna have to have everything but the tow hook section is so complicated he might just have to go up there and feel it out again dropped into the double toes again now will he try something else does look like he's going to a similar method flipping that left hand around really pushing it out foot slips but somehow manages to hold it kenny reduce the speed to this top hold mantra today here not under sorry Buster for Andra you did a he wrote but this is Andres method pushing out on the left [Applause] well no shortage of effort from Kokoro Fuji it doesn't look like the four off something that looks like the elbow hopefully no injury there let's have another look the one who's gripping his elbow yeah all the force was in the wrong direction it was trying to push her elbow in rather than out I think he was a couple of millimeters away they're giving a physio in Tokyo six months business that could have been quite nasty Adam Andra the only climber so far to have topped both of the boulders yeah comes Schubert now the latest to try his luck the local hero [Music] so four minutes begins ticking for Jakob flash the first Boulder if he flashes this one he knows he'll finish this rotation on Boulder - in the lead Adam Andhra currently leading the way with two the lead and becomes second in two speed climbing it would be the reigning lead world champion things have been looking pretty good for Yakov this is the right hat firstly he's so strong Jakob Schubert managed to make the left hand stick there didn't get the full release like a cure for this we know it's this next section that's really causing the upset guys flash to the zone [Applause] what's the method gonna be turns down the left hand presses it out looks like he's gonna try and go hand to foot hunter takes sure about it turning the side wants to do a hike up I think he had a quick look at the top Horton are going straight for it smashes that right hand down gets the thumb swap [Applause] two folders two flashes rent environment here the yak of shaver in front of his home crowd there on that folder each movie worked so hard when he went again with the right hand to that sock new body he had to try so so hard to hold on worked hard through this X in the left hand just held him on there and step another look through this top section if we can goes into the toe which initially force through his body on this top move was so impressive and looked like he had a real fight of his hands a yak Rob Schubert love seeing the climb is really fighting hard on the boulders that's what yeah at once as well he does want this come down to number attempts on the jumps he wants to pull really hard on some bad holes that's a great method through the same as tomorrow up with the right again drop the left in and have some of that to the crowd I think that is Jakov Schubert's into the crowd are you not entertained we talked about perhaps being the greatest fighter of all time pretty hard to look past all the outcomes uber yeah started climbing back running is 12 but it's been success after success after success seven straight World Cup wins in 2011 when he absolutely dominated that season he's been a world champion in 2012 again in 2018 to Boulder World Cup wins 18 lead World Cup wins and he's absolutely smashing this combined final he's a phenomenal competitor I think only is a great climber B's greater competition climbing I've said it before though in the sport that requires such tough training yeah Cobb is so impressive and so is this chap here Yan Hoya good friend of ya Cobbs now looking to the beat yeah cops feet on the boulder number two yawns and be honest needs to get on the board didn't top number one although he did get his own and he's not going to flash it looks like he can top it out yes can be difficult disappointed with that foot slip there bruised the first section I don't think it'd be a problem for him to go back through there it just test the length between the two hand hold see if there's an option just a spin of the foot so much force going through the shoulder at that point is the shoulder hold hold is almost flexing on the wall there is no bit is literally trying to rip it off the wall right you said earlier yeah God doesn't want this decided by who took the most number of trials on a jump he just wants to pull hard on some bad holds sounds like a summary of Yan Hoyer to me what can he find here so he'll try again won't thank the DJ for the quiet music this is a bit more like it needs a bit shot of adrenaline because he's got 20 or 30 seconds of pulling pretty hard coming up here yeah then I was to skip the one of the best odds on the road [Applause] the right hand shoulder so again Hawaii our 2014-2015 in a nutshell there yeah that's his aim it is vintage bet who needs to hold here a team Germany all the fist bumping each other so many times we've done that stood back on the mat thought on that I'm just gonna skip the Holtz great showmen as you said he's one of the best holds of them on the boulder most Inka hold on the bother anyway didn't even need it twice we've seen this bowl had done missing a whole but different holds in the process he missed two out Adam Andra missed one root sister so it could have served yourself a bit of bother here to net screw holes in the wall that's for sure don't forget to match you and these two experiences too much of a pro to make that mistake so here's how it stands up the two boulders yep of Schubert leading the way to tops both and flashes Adam Andra keeping him honest with two tops everyone else got one top interestingly to the climbers got their tops on the ward and the other two to monera second yellow I got theirs on Boulder to everyone apart from kaya Radha's got both zones rattling along this men's bouldering there could move so far same as the women's competition good boulders we move over to the slab now real change of gear let's have a look that was Samoan era sake finding the top this was Adam on drip shoving that long left leg in front of his chest popping up to the top hole this is tire our dough just couldn't stay on that zone no lack of commitment here's your look at this reaction yeah you beauty [Music] this was young he looked like you might be having a bit of bother no such worries here's tomorrow out onto the slab so they're the start holds flashing their possible slight awkward judgment for the for the judges Mike that people don't accidentally touch the hold in between the start hand holes whilst pulling on yeah they're touching that stuff just have a look if they are touching as we said we didn't have time to actually go down to the mats putting him on yeah this is interesting Chinese this exactly they're talking about if they are touching as a controversial decision because theory all three of those holds become one hold it didn't touch me a second thought spotted it wasn't understand show the judge the judge did agree with me our regardless of whether they're touching you don't actually come that close to touching the one that ammo is currently standing on that's what I was worried about that you might just clip it with you need no problem up to the zone to mower just okay a little lean across jump first hard and then pin again to a relatively good in cut crimp on that blue volume that's attached to the red volume it's really telephone starting how old are touching the big volumes up above our I don't think there's someone makes a silly mistake that thing that will really affect the competition's to be honest now it's a natural starting position to Jeff's [Music] there we go one two is currently trying to go very dynamically out to the left do you wonder if it is possible to sort of creep it across the slab rather than jump it jumping is tomorrow's preferred style though you've seen him land some pretty spectacular moves the IFS see again if it was a jump there's nothing to oppose against on the right hands it might be some sort of hands flip somewhere together tomorrow now sake pops our left again the recesses what do we have to do to moyen our sake and they are exactly what he wanted to do this Pogo at the start position basically to the last group on the boulder have another look absolutely gunned it across the slab bounced off the top left hold didn't even bother the initial stand up like I said Charlie from that point onwards another good top hold but will anyone else find that method it's a move made for two MOA yeah exactly just as I saying the previous term said he does prefer if you can let's put himself into a provisional lead with that one two tops three zones first climber al is number three though there is Adam Andre bring it bore out each our happiness like a comedy sketch Schiff's Adam Andre said initially didn't bring anything out then he brought a spare pair of shoes now he brings his rucksack it is as this is a bet with some friends this time he's got the matching pair of shoes it's got the same right foot on different left foot much overall a soft pair of shoes just touch that hole dose Lee touching one of the official stars is not a start to go up nothing Adam just touched it but attempt Adam definitely look you going to the zones not even thought about the Tamera method yet is desperate that's not really a halogen so aiming for it is one thing that if you just forget about and try and stand up you're pretty much in the same position that you go if you try and go for it slow-mo we're calling it a hole because we've got to call it something that meet my strict definition of a climbing hold still here goes Adam Andre let me find a way to do this jump out left no he can't so that looked a bit like two mowers first attempt sir tomorrow just went haywire once again we see ourselves a B Dino here I'm making the mistake of touching that hold again brain judges going to review on that one luckily for him [Music] it goes out of again Scot himself stood up now [Music] concentration on his face begins now left of these clothes to hang me on to that looked like he brought the right hand on top of the left Ruth it might be better putting it rounds a bit the right hand side of the hold strange jump really so soon it's a number of times this week jumping to white as conventional a one-handed hold and see it there it's just really a small crimp and a lot of times we saw it Samaras or stacking on top of the other hand that's the feat arrow for a few seconds there a problem on the zone for Adam [Music] [Music] see I'm lining up the jump that's where he's got to get to he won't get much closer than that Adam Andra ed quick tap at the right hand on the top of the triangle and then Double Down see the method there horrible watching the hands clamped together like that slowly grinding off of the Crim [Music] this time I don't forget sit down same effort at the right hand doubles down then goes back up to the top of the volume no mistakes on the finish this game it's um here's afternoon change in the modern Steiner bombing over the last few months after climbing surmount outdoors you can see how much it means to perform well all the sudden these parties Karenin Sprint's off the stage that might one things a flag by the way look at other one would score I think he was given an attempt again simply touching that hole I said at the time it looks to me like he's just touch the hole and it's not one of the stars the crucial point is whether the holes are touching you and I didn't have any time in between the women's final and this one yeah being able to go down to the mats to confirm it but if they are touching then it's a star hold if they're not touching then he's not allowed to touch it before he starts but it looks to me like Adams been given an additional attempt there [Applause] [Music] is always having to work harder at these chairmanships just to even spot that little hand touch on the volume yeah I don't think they'll be thanking the roof setters for putting a non-legal star right in the middle of legal stars really left-hand side of that hold the camera man still hasn't quite found the shot we want it would answer our questions one thing's for sure is the athletes and their coaches will know the rulebook inside out I see again didn't DoubleTap the right foot down our judge Rhodes all runs on again and saw that with two MOA quite surprising this because whilst the the hand holds are do seem a little ambiguous that the foots pretty clear [Music] okay so straight up to the zone for Chi [Music] I just lost his mojo a little bit here in this boulder combined final up to the second Boulder well given the fact that's pretty much any sports coach now would say to him he should be asleep after what he went through yesterday masa disease competing they combined finalists understand them all that the energy levels might be running a little low it's like a footballer winning the World Cup and then going out try and do again the next day now he goes out it's not not happy at all with this method there Chi Harada they seem to be a little bit stuck here between a slow method in the fast method in the end we saw with Samoa and atom Andhra ended up jumping out to the left so back off find him [Applause] [Music] the acai Deppe beginning to look slightly fatigued more than understandable quite an unusual method that traffic throughout the volume with the right hand as he came across it's kind of hard to see there the movement as a whole with these angles but you can see at least what he's aiming for now he gets it done one minute to go for higher honor he's not going to get time now and he's not going to fall off from their top four guy Radha so that gives him two tops I topped all four boulders yesterday in the bung and all four in the semi-final it looks like he just wants to conserve every bit of Energy's gone probably dint look across at the lead wall still got to try that after the fourth Boulder [Music] so there we see it Adam under three tops Timon our sake and Jakob Schubert and Corrado all got to Tom's Jakob Schubert Kokoro Fujinami an Hoya look yet to attempt this third Boulder here comes Toro Olympia world in Innsbruck been treated to a full day of climbing she's been absolutely non-stop he's Kokoro ready to roll [Music] [Music] so Bakura pulls on high he had the zone and looked as if his attention just wandered slightly and he was already thinking about the next move yeah you saw looked over to the left it wasn't quite solid on that too firm although you could easily ask how slowly if you could ever be on a hole that bad have another look here he goes again can't just can't quite made that thumb stick is compact it could Cora timon our sake got this done on his fourth go Cora had two attempts already tries to grab the top of the volume as chi did nobody yet it would appear just look at where their eyes are facing and their body language is even considered tomorrow so please bring up and left directly if you don't touch the zone you still get awarded it if you can top the boulder see there's no need to to go for it from a scoring point of view Koro holds on again and now he's got the thumb a bit more solid my traceur with Adam Andhra deep in concentration not close to the jump that time Mike Langley has just joined me back in the commentary box didn't we were so curious about whether these star holds were touching and very frustrated as well because normally get plenty of chance before every broadcast to look at all the boulders and we didn't this time because the women's final over ran are they touching apparently not so so that beat so that by the central hold you're not allowed to touch until you've made a legal start exactly that I stood right in front of the boulder to me they look like they're touching I spoke to one of the officials and said they are not tattoo there's a gap of about millimeter on the left hand side Adam on Joe got told he accepted the decision they are not yeah it's a bit frustrating it's slightly unnecessary you could put the hold three Mills away then there's a clear gap yeah there we could see it well apparently there's a gap between that hole there and the one above and left of it I've got 20/20 vision been very lucky in them I can't see the gap but we're sure it's there but as I say slightly frustrating to have the potential for the problem in the first place but we've at least resolved it Mike thanks for legging down across the arena normally my job to do the live interviews quite a long way isn't it interesting because I sat right next to the judge and he said traffic hannahb on to a talk straight away and he accepted it it's obviously not touching on with the competition the corner running out of time here yeah it's not going to get this one done Kokoro he's already got this out [Music] Koro will be precise that was brilliant so close six or so thousand people in here all just jumped out the seats at the same time they heard the beeps in they had Kokoro firing for the finished homes great moment so close well you could done that the minute before that would have been the quickest the center of an IFSP bowler in history at home please enjoy the DJ who's missed a few open goals this week it's it absolutely spot-on when he plays always look on the bright side of life is before a Fuji a walk that's how it stands right now Kokoro getting himself in a bit of trouble here mister one top on the board so far he comes Jakob Schubert yet to fall off the boulder on suddenly afternoon in Innsbruck given the complexity and the delicacy of the movements on this bowl you'd have to say it might be the most impressive flash of all if you could do it and no one's quite repeated Samoas feats in this boulder back up makes no mistake on the start rose up off the left foot rather than the right prepared looking for another player Kobe he really really wants this Jakov and look to me as if he was kind of questioning his method just before he launched about things in that would have pretty much all the athletes really the sort of just not quite sure whether they can just lean across do they have to jump I think the thing is you don't know what the whole to light you don't know what the movement feels like so as soon as you start moving you start receiving information that you didn't have before and you've got to process it and act on it midway through the move so every time you do it you learn that bit more and that equips you better to make your decisions better if you have got was questioning his methods it's understandable because he's never done the move before he doesn't know what it feels like he doesn't know where his body naturally ends up going they're great things without bothering because you can have multiple attempts and say move that time again just going over the one hand we've seen the double stacking efforts working on each occasion the boulder has been topped going through the fund this is a replay of Jakov just gonna bring that right hand in to stabilize on that file volume [Music] pulls on again less than half his time remaining my name is close that time Bowl has been top three times already chirality maranao second atom Andhra all got it done yeah yeah cops gonna do this I think you could see on that go slapped his shorts as he came off he knew that was possible that was the same method as Andhra tapping their volume the blue volume at the top with the right hand before doubling back down looks like he actually needs to be a little lower yeah that was dropping quite a long way onto the hands is that your reading of it he's got a finger strength to hold that jump down there here he goes get one turn on the clock ah he's getting closer retired a slightly different method that time didn't probably using the top of the volume sorry I indeed go a lot slower that time he asked for the brusha this time and brushes himself very rare you see Jakob Siebert falling off a bowling if he couldn't hang on to something jumping to that one-handed Crippler missus now Yakov yeah he tell us it's a second place you have me on the number of attempts have been well over take out of on this happened Seibert he'll make sure by getting that left foot nice and high will it work laptop Schubert our Austrian Co commentators to decided to ditch their table over there dancing around the arena they love it when I come here but it does well the air Killian Fisher but compensating for Austrian TV and from what we can see abandoning any attempted in partiality his good friend and fellow Tyrolean lack of Schubert's that's ringing Sheldon the throat right hand placement although it's just a bit of a sloppy slab for the right hand to join the left hand it does have to have a little bit of precision he actually had his right hand quite far around the right hand side of that triangle just gave them a little bit of opposition with just a couple of fingers overlapping the left you see his heart was in his mouth on that on that Boulder that's how it stands right now yeah and higher still to attempt this Boulder so you could definitely move himself well up the order could move himself depending on number of attempts per third going up to the last bowl or so need to talk that's for sure yet going on to his traditionally strongest discipline after winning the speed he would have wanted to keep that momentum going might be maybe a bit too much to ask to win the bouldering as well but certainly a a top half finish would put him in a very strong position getting onto the lead wall opting to stand up off the left so like Jakov who puts what luckily is not too much of an issue slabs not traditionally his best of friends oh that was close though dinos however yeah hang your home on hanging onto pretty grim little holds no problem very a very definite slap with the right hand so I'll try again now yeah looks like he can definitely do this Boulder for sure seems like it's pretty much done and dusted once you get over to the laugh ramp seen anyone drop it once they've got onto that hole to the left you have a lot of positive finish holds in this competition celebrate and the good hold not too many doubts on this finish move I say there charlie we're sure he's going to latch only keep Matt it really slowly maybe even too slowly looked like you slightly left his feet behind they're just ignoring that blue volume all together at the moment with the little screwin on it she's getting in the way right now just jumping straight past it they thought he got it as rightly as Alex make offs in the cap Margot Hayes next to him just over half his time remaining yeah [Music] no engine of surprise he tried a new master thing considering how close he looked on the last attempt to try to hit him and landed the one hand there just try to compress on the blue volume slightly here yeah I thought I got the impression he kind of wished he hadn't tried that by the time he actually stopped swinging you can see he was thinking oh that's not gonna work too late but certainly looks doable this Boulder for sure yeah [Music] if I can't get it done by the way it's going to be six going on to the last Boulder you know that time he released them fun just acting the fun just pop just as he went to the jumps put it off slightly just needs to recompose himself a little bit yeah I know it could definitely do this Boulder because it's more than comfortable throwing across struggling a little bit all of a sudden find the balance it's got to continue to focus on the first movement of the last [Applause] digging it out bit by bit Yayoi [Applause] one yeah he'll move up now into hooking the number of attempts thing they'll put it off into fourth place going on so that Boulder yeah his fourth place two tops three so say mr. Bernero Sakura's got a head of Corrado a head of Kokoro fuji surely not coincidence that those two are beginning to struggle after their efforts in the last 24 hours touch-and-go there for a minute yeah no ill suddenly started struggling on the first news I did always look strong enough to hold that position so just breathing a sigh of relief he knew there he wasn't going to drop it so yeah cough and Adam both got three tops German team enjoyed that one moving on to the next bold of them really interesting red bolder looking forward to seeing this one a real puzzle yes it's one of those boulders where at first glance pretty much what we're getting right now serve as you guys at home you were you think okay I don't know how to start this we stop and you step back and you think are okay maybe yeah okay and you begins to figure it out but it certainly isn't left-right bish bash Bosh answer takes a lot of thought and I wouldn't be surprised if we see multiple methods of it because of the series of red volumes and then da traditional yellow top holes if you replay say this was Jakob Schubert wait for the explosion they can see the current standings give that sea air combined by the way that's not the bouldering that's the combined as it stands the Akram Schubert currently leading the way if you finished this in their bouldering with him on top you have two ranking points are Sol soldered in the women's she won the speed was second in the bouldering there's a yeah Noah there's not a lot of space behind this wall it's what a thin corridor it's been our access for most of the week so we've got to know it quite well but it's a very small area let's have a look at this Boulder now here we go then Ben's on before starting all in red yellow zone herd as always he's just on the side of this big diamond triangular shaped hold finish holds up there on the far left quite a crimp as the method anyone's guess heading up right using these two cones four feet a really awkward body position really hard across the shoulders to get across it's how hot it bust me in the arena here just down to the shorts backstage yeah yeah cup chassis away German there so presumably chatting with Yan Cora fuji studying these fingertips [Music] there is he a building already had the speed over on the right now we're on the border that will finish on the left the lead is Des Moines our sake showed glimpses of the tomorrow we knew and loved 2016 without having consistently performing like that smell they're asking for the holder to be for us before he even turns around telling them to go move it as well obviously during the observation period his notice there's a Polaroid still pretty dirty from the testing period when the route said has created this so there we can see the start holds labeled with the yellow tape it's one down and load and two on the big honeycomb over to the right and that time to the way straight up to the zone so much of the zone for tomorrow this is the technique I was just talking about there let me describe that as a guppy gamete wrap the hand wrap where everyone I call it really savage in the palms really stretches the skin across the back of your hand as well although it's pretty painful but so I was absolutely cruising here tomorrow now in cruise control Sakhi Brito fools into the leave but with the other five climbers still to come Castle as you like effort no name so he didn't struggle with that hand wrap in any way shape or form he's looking really good a little sudden he's come back to life after the first Boulder so he was awesome bottom three across the slab he was frankly ridiculous and on this time will tell how hard this Boulder is but at the moment he made it look quite steady double wrapping in the palms of left hand in the palm of the right hands shuffling up on the right-hand side and lining up the one hand a catch at the top for these guys that's no problem [Music] here comes Adam Andre opportunity to be the first climber with four tops in this combined bouldering keepings guessing with what he's good to bring out on it's a stage after gradually increasing his load I thought he might drag a trailer out within this time as it is it just brings the one shoe it's actually got good memory of these boulders because he's made those decisions during the observation period as to what Gary's gonna bring with him each time it's very confident but in most of it's strange if it's not much more effort to bring two shoes out is it just in case but a very confident its decision we can Adam if you're gonna bring one sheep I'll bring two surely either way remember he has both what bowls of water out with him before we go into that in a minute let's watch him on this Boulder wrapping that first triangular zone volume here he goes lining it up I think it could be about to eat four tops I'm Adam Andre it almost reaches optically just gets up on his tiptoes and there it is it's a pretty easy bone in this one for these guys Ida moans or blows a little kiss to the crowd he's had a great bouldering turn yeah he can finish on the bouldering is third well Adam excuse me second the worse that can do is second lack of Schubert's good overtake Adam but no one else can so Adam is going to have a pretty good result from the ball lose fifth in the speed which realistically was about what he was expecting perhaps he was slightly better and in the bouldering things have gone pretty well he's gonna be at least second Adam nice to see a boulder with a being done 100% statically it's one of those boulders where climbers that this caliber make it look relatively straightforward but you know if you try that yourself would be absolutely the Living End yeah I think for most people [Applause] the Quran that they've got to be able to make these moves look easy yeah an ability to crush that's shape in between your hand it's actually a bit of a dark heart holding a body like that [Music] tire are now bore the world champion come in fifth place in the bouldering and this combined final two tops them two zones he will be well aware of what has just gone on in this Bollywood imagine and he would expect to repeat the feat of Adam Andhra answer bone marrow sake the best ways there might these moves to the average punter down the wall are absolutely desperate so much force to ass but made to look easy there's a slight technique of switching the hands as well [Applause] a piece of cake honey one of the calmest top something I've ever seen at this level of climbing but disappointing men's number four here really hard to say it really grew so it's got such a incredibly difficult job at a time and time again but it's a steady away this one it's gonna put them in a good position going into the lead low adds an interesting element yeah I mean if everyone can flash it obviously the standings remain as they were after Boulder three but somebody might slip up start playing into it again Hoyer coming out later on if everyone's lot of pressure on him too stressed at any stage they're being come out of that to be honest after 24 hours he's had and there we see it standings right now with it yeah from Schubert yeah so Jakob Schubert can win this bouldering round of the combine final is kakora fujian top here would bump him up the order but it would be temporary I think he's going to finish this bouldering in six haven't seen how easily the climbers are doing this bother I don't think pakoras really got an opportunity to move up here you'll move up temporarily if he gets it done but I'm pretty sure Yayoi would then knock you back down into sixth just as Kokoro does put onto this it does give us an opportunity to focus on a little bit of technique that's required they say it doesn't like you just grabbing the holes and putting on them but hands when they go up that zone not the zone hold itself that the volume that screwed on lot of times you have it with your left hand in one direction you move up flip the hand completely around the other way to make it to work to move left words let's have a watch it's initially rapping it on the left-hand side so it brings the right hand in easily that's fine one word for me Mike kokoro now lining it up it's a tall climb in that look quite so far away BAM as admired of the karada the result is the same though kakora fuji flashes it as well didn't need any of those hat sequences I was just about to elaborate on [Music] and here's pottering round quite sure what to make of that one now disappointing finish really to the bouldering [Music] yeah carbanion still to come but everyone else has flashed it and you can see they just kept the hand facing over to the right and sadly the world has to live a little longer without Mike Langley geeking out on hand swaps how will we manage to your heart's content so yak of Schubert's and ya know the last two bombers to attempt this again yeah Cobb will be well aware that it's only about two and a half minutes since the first climber went out to attempt this Boulder and now he's on the stage is the fifth climber so he knows it's been getting flash [Applause] we saw this in the men's competition when he does come down to the in the semi-final there's a number of flashes farmers doing the problems first go it doesn't have an interesting element of sports psychology yone cruder mentioning no names to Monera sake struggled with the pressure and didn't make it through Zippo they still gotta get it done yeah that's it if you want coming out onto the maps it was easy for everyone else but y'all still stood at the Boston you still got to get it done and you can see that big move up what a force go through the shoulder [Music] Jakub now creepiest handle but again not doing the hands what might we denied your explanation for another return yeah I don't think we're going to see that now I'm fortunate that gob has got a slightly different mapping here who's talked down to the left [Applause] the launcher and surely a theater logical things to do needs to be to put the right foot out [Applause] can't stop top in the borders today [Music] winning get the bowl going round up to second in the speed right 7f watch [Music] combined destroying all four boulders putting on a great show for the Austrian crowd every time it pretty much using the same technique apart from the actor when that one went all the way out to the left pause for a while but still had the required gas to get to the top hole just to let you know already tomorrow now sake out the running here near over arms we're under finish the bullring in third he was sick than the speed so 3 times 6 is 18 and the worst score Jakob Schubert could get having been second at first is it 12 so tomorrow already out the reckoning to be the combined world champion thinking year or so ago when the Olympic combined was suggested tomorrow and our sake would have been one of the moons up there is a firm favorite such as the training of some of these teams a lot of people have caught up with him really quickly yeah I mean Shawn Michaels won the last three combined World Championships and this is not in any way to lessen that achievement but it didn't have anything like the same number and caliber of climbers doing the combined being not doing well in the combine was a reward for doing the three disciplines but you didn't have the yeah no as youtubers to monera sakis of this world giving it everything they have in all three disciplines and it's completely shifted the landscape and that combined title which was perhaps a source after us the individual ones in World Championships I think is going to become increasingly important here's the Anaya now you might get your chance you will flip that left hand there we are [Music] I was expecting more from the others version has to be on Okinawa he goes the moments passed [Applause] cruise day ya know as did everybody else obviously one of the easiest called is ever the feature this weekend made off [Applause] so forth in the end for ya Noah in bouldering and Fitz for Kai Gerardo for Oh dance it doesn't say hard to believe it's a coincidence that those two at the bottom haven't defeated in the final last night and see a number of people in the audience swiftly exiting before the lead to try and get themselves a quick beer cup of tea coffee whatever it is that they need to keep themselves going a short break before we head into the lead competition yeah Schubert's to win at least at this stage it is yeah the three Japanese climbers are already out of it yeah these are all my scribbled on the back of an envelope calculations by the way but Jakob Schubert at first and second gives him two ranking points in the overall Adam fifth in the second seized on ten tomorrow as I mentioned a third the sixth 18 so he can't catch Jakov yan higher for award so he's got four rank points he can catch Jakob Taikan and kokoro can't lead from 20 and 18 points respectively and as ice yeah cops maximum score is going to be twelve six if mustardseed be unlikely multiplied by the tree already house it's gonna be a great fight going on yeah don't go anywhere anyway yeah Cobb Schubert and the other ones we're going toe-to-toe on the lead route I won't say any day of the week [Music] this was Yakko that Boulder to us [Music] are you thinking about the lead and there we see it yeah Cobb with two points ya know for a de mons of ten to MOA kokoro and can i already out of it right now [Music] so that's how it stands right now we're going on to the lead wall very steep holding all in the middle of the arena leave all over to the left we've already seen the lead wall in action for the women they were climbing the right hand roots on the red holes this time we're over on the left for the men the yellow all-news two relatively similar styles of the women true so you've got a little showy section lowdown bit of a jump and then just insurance it's a case of who can hang on the longest traditional lead route we've already seen the climbers tested in bouldering we want to see them now tested in Lee [Music] blanching the top as he did on all four boulders Adam Andra also taught all four boulders [Music] again the higher just miss out the first one they got their ass done that was yeah calm raw emotion no doubt what he made of that one that was an excellent Boulder that one there number two we saw earlier there is yan tomorrow and our sake here topping the slab when he looks good he looks fantastic tomorrow that was it Adam again [Music] [Music] [Music] there is the lead wall and looking for you that is down but yet is it Jakob Schubert I'm assuming that the other five finalists are down there somewhere staring at my screen yeah I could see now the year reached be unmistakable outline of Jana Hoya next to him Adam Andris yeah Cobb up on the stage I was to look at they're all down there they just they were just slightly hidden by the arena lights this is the men's through then 44 moves to the top so we're just 40 moved in the women's women's route a touch too easy just appeals in the only girl and Brit stopping that one spectacularly move down low and all action crimps through the top off the route again yeah carbanion comparing notes and just we've actually got a much better view from our commentary position and we do from the cameras could Koro and timon both there with a binocular sky just off on his own doing his own thing study the route same is true of a but remember they've got six minutes to look at this route one reasonably unusual feature of the route is that there is a compulsory position from which to clip one of the quick draws you have to clip all the quick draws the sequence and there are rules around that but actually on this occasion it's so important that the route set isn't have put a cross of blue tape next to a hold and then across a blue tape next to a quick-draw and that means pas de TI 4c rules that you must clip this quick draw from this hold yep and they've done that because it would be too dangerous to progress through the next movie which is to jump out left without clipping that great job yeah it's quite close to the ground and you could for sure hit the ground if you didn't have the quick-draw flips and you fell off and the jokes of the route says it's have actually installed so we don't see that often which is a compulsory point from which you have to quote yeah on these sort of ruse occasionally do see it when they brew all of a sudden snakes massively to one side and then it's over s is background on top of it itself so the line of the quick-draw still makes sense but you do do a lot of climbing way off to the side of the quick drop we've said that the height answer plants won't fall off for that movie it's a bit of a spectacular jump in a bit of a spin on some pockets but it's come into the route setters anyway it's not a particularly difficult section you don't necessarily think they're going to lose any of the athletes in there [Music] that's going to be safe at the same time and say Charles observing this very very similar position to those guys earlier on today heading back in three or four rows taking a seat in one of those chairs you get a much better view you do from the front row yeah the stage is actually quite small in Innsbruck when you're on the edge of the stage you can see the top of the roof you can't remake out any detail vague so you've got to get down and dirty well it's a little public viewing area kick someone off their seats or me I'm Yan Hoya now the way the top that right there is quite difficult to observe we've got small yellow holes on top of small volumes really hard to determine the sequence from down on the ground you're not pleased or not that's one of the views we've got their side onto the wall swimming through on the right-hand side earlier you can see again yeah and the yak nog comparing notes to mower and Kokoro the same atom right now doing his own thing yeah Cup I think might be thinking about leaning over and asking Adam what he makes of the whole thing they had a fierce battle in the lead Adam and Jakob both got a 36 plus in the final it was count back to the previous round that won it for Jakob but it was very very close that's what makes this combined finals so exciting as kids we get not only do you get a new competition but we get an opportunity to see those two go at it again like we saw is Jessie and Yaya it's another opportunity to see amazing talent on the wall what an absolute privilege it is to be here and be able to film these climbers Jakov Schubert they're really in the driving seat just 2 ranking points they amuse first in the bouldering and second in the speed and arguably certainly judging by his performances in 2018 and he's won 18 lead World Cups yeah consumers still with his strongest discipline to go he can be caught though both Adam and Yan could catch him it would be pretty unlikely that Adam would do it Adam would have to be first in Jakov sixth in the lead I mean given how what an amazing lead climber is do you think that would almost have to certainly involve a slip getting started on the route but we did see it from me I coming the qualifies he slipped on the qualifying route one day Center on his social media that was the first time he'd ever slept in it that's slips in a lead competition so it's possible they say it is possibly super would seem very unlikely if Yan Hoya came first and Jakob was second on the lead then Yan would actually take it they both end up with four ranking points that Yan would have been the better climate in two disciplines he would have been better on speed and better at lead and that would be enough to hand them it even though they'd be tired on ranking points but lack of Schubert for sure strong strong favourite Yan will be left out so again welcome down to the final climber because even if yeah Cobb tops our route if Yan could top the route faster them in need to take the win just in the arena here just been showing a replay of the fantastic power climbing files we didn't get a chance to see that life do you go back i fu see YouTube kind of look out for the internet 2018 playlist so many contestants great routing in the power as well so many categories it went down for the final climate topping the final route yeah it was a real standout of the para climbing competition was the lead setting and my you and I went for dinner with the paragliding team GB after the conclusion of the para climbing and they were saying exactly the same thing and there you can see the lead wall 54 degrees overhanging in that middle station 12 meters wide 15 meters high and our route will go left and then snake around into the middle and then once it hits that full panel out of five pretty much straight up to the top so the Reynolds was the women's route ignore that now we're on to the men's final and it is absolutely in Jakov Schumer's hands but remember yan hoya could just about take it off him so it won't be absolutely nailed on until the last farmers finished once again the script Brides is getting this one spot on as Jakov Shuba already won a World Championship in his home city is he about to get that feeling again he is very much the odds-on favorite right now but a slip the disaster a really bad error lowdown could a know open it right off Oh joking a little bit early it's kind of true how much stuff you have to bring with you for the combines what towel for your bowl binoculars for the lead with a friggin pretty big kickback and forcing how his skin's looking how to say that's a small corridor behind the wall back to area there is directly behind the pole Dewar's right in the middle of the arena [Music] trying to listen in on here and there we see it remember the climbers are coming out in reverse order to their current ranking the overall standard so forget the bouldering it's about the current overall ranking so Kai Harada will be the first climber out for like Bakura Fuji then tomorrow Nara sake those three Japanese farmers no longer in the hunt for the win podiums still up for grabs but the win is gone and for all of them 6/5 and for excuse me struggling now to be honest with you I think another coffee and this is a close-up look on our 3d model of the lead roof and our B on the left on those yellow holes and there's the big hole at the top powerful moves there's the jump with a compulsory clip and then it's pretty much once you get to about mid height once you start moving hard out to the right it's just yarding on terrible little holes pretty much all the way to the top I don't want to say no potential for a rest it looks like there's no potential for a rest but someone might be able to find something somewhere doing that no potential rest I can't even scene [Music] so Kai Harada already had the best World Championships of his young life five here will just be a bonus final element of this world championships in Innsbruck gets underway then final six climbers we will see a big showdown to finish here is a guy Radha underway on the lead route currently got a ranking points total of 20 because of 4th and 5th 4th in the speedfit the bouldering interestings from the women's refused it is on the wall just spin round in further route perfectly no issues so you can see the two crosses we mentioned earlier on if you haven't watched lead climbing before it's basically a competition if you can get to the highest hold we provided a route map by the roots s is beforehand as are the judges and you scored according to which hand holds you reach the route course theoretically getting trickier as it goes on and KY holds it no proper mercy yet compulsory clip as I say the two bits of blue tape saying this is a quick-draw you must clip from this hole I did that spectacular section coming up a nice big cross move canvassing on the pockets BIG's been through it's far long way through eventually yeah there's the shoulders pretty wide you get a bit of an insight it's the power level of the average ifs C athlete the fact that Pilate quite so relaxed through that section yeah when I'm pull up followed by canvass move it's just day-to-day stuff for these guys isolate it on two fingers during the one armor as well I don't suppose this is something you could ever prove but I can't believe anyone's ever done more competition moves in 24 hours in Cairo Roderick before a Fuji out there in Innsbruck and he's still going strong I think that rest day tomorrow will feel pretty good for now though business to attend to on the lead wall yeah he's gonna take a slight shake here as well he'd be well advised to because as you said Mike let alone resident really a piece of any holds after this so he's going to be working hard from here on out the angle does ease but only slightly now he launches into the upper section plenty of time remaini won't struggle for time its energy that's the issue angle he's ease back a little bit for him here with these two volumes got pretty decent ledge to stand on for his feet two hands together on the volume but I don't see that too often opportunity to switch back between them for different chalking up each hand let's choose to move on [Music] those up with the left bakes in work brew sectors might be watching this slightly nervously they filmed this was a really hard route but given that Corrado isn't as tired as he is he's making a very good dense at it and we finally lose him pulling onto the head wall finally he knew he could finally relax now his competition he's over best week of his we have really soft focus of child [Music] as you've imagined he would look after the amount of time he's done at the master few days and specifically the last 24 hours the jump lowered down just double to it so sort of one handy pocket wrap the top in the right hands yeah the roots SS you're saying there's not much in it how you grab it with the right hand as long as the left hand solid and you get something out of the right generally that's enough to keep you up this is the point where the group really starts to take healing this head will small edges and fear shoulder move after that they can see terrible right pinch go away short of the left hand in the end [Applause] [Music] here's kakora Fuji second Japanese farmer on the wall he'll be followed by a third - monera sake six minutes will begin when he starts his attempt he's had his individual observation time as well as his six minutes to study the route on mass with the other climbers rock it through this lower section [Music] again using that red pocket yeah seems like the most sensible option for getting that clip who's not to use it and there you can see the compulsory clipping position I'm just entering the shot now be compulsory clicks oh there's the hole he's got to quit for up it's not that quick draw these about to quit that he has to do them there by the way someone above so it's not that one it's this one there it is it's two clips of the price of one there kokoro just will take a moment true makes no mistakes in the jump it spectacular but easy and you know the clip before he goes through though yeah you're the thought so now he's really lies that himself you'd be climbing away from the quick-draw you've been a bit of a muddle getting back round imagine she's on to that volcano now you know pop up with a left hand move out right and just motor for the top get as many moves in as he can kokoro was third in the speed sixth in the bowl drink [Music] heading out towards the lip this is the steepest six with more five big panels that make up the wall where we saw Kai her either on this next check and just take a quick moment to talk and to relax it's got a really good heel look at the moment and rest the different hands working through this section or will he choose to push on a campus high energy way of doing that move hope that doesn't come back to hurt and too much hopefully finding their section first off the roof pretty cruisy no it kicks in another good rest is [Applause] Kokoro got a real fighting chance and as he stabs up with the right hand we're losing Lowe's off smiling wasn't quite his day but after the workload he had yesterday it was slightly optimistic to think it would be this was on the gym this has readied already got the quick though [Applause] let's first up at the hands coming together they're seeing this next spin move quite a lot these days in the lead competitions spectacular for the crowd just gets a final round of applause to Cora Fujian a C's way off the stage to Mon now suck he's going to be the next climber out [Music] [Music] and then we could see 34 plus for kurata and 30 plus for kakora Fuji when our out next I think he's gonna join the bottom half of this route seems like a while ago now tomorrow favor on the speed Wilbur had that foul star [Music] during it did well on the Border's but no chance even when unfortunately here's two MOA got that great spring key style don't expect him to hang around forever on this lead wall he's not to have the Roman day groans just hang out there big ad just just keeps up motoring and see how I get seemed bursting onto the wall yes printer rather lenders kind of endurance specialist really try and beat the pump to the top of the wall little bit confused about the big cross here you're saying about that red pocket can cause a little bit of confusing kuroh looking a tiny bit confused of that movers about in the end it wasn't a problem sometimes moving that fast can cause that level of confusion though a lot counted patients to do really quickly she's really got Samoa taking a bit of a break before launching out no way was going to drop that now the only thing is it's far away from the quick-draw it's got himself in a bit of a tangle here to mow and not only a row but it says how he does equip that quick-draw I think you might better reach back around now and he's lucky yeah I think he's caused himself a problem you didn't need though it makes it work in the end [Music] would have been looking at a pretty a blessed fall actually had to come off there but it didn't seem to occur to him at the time it's not really flowing through this section bringing power Charlie's talking about probably won't bother resting March Resort encourages canvassing this section that he did power out swiftly afterwards Samoa keeping the heel on the cross under [Music] nice moves here on this route so far classic shapes Samoa getting something of a rests it's a spectacularly poor hold for which she's resting Paul's than arrests there you can see like a car of Fujiko to Samoa goes out there now so pretty easily she's gonna climb himself into a provisional second place that's where Colorado got these it's four plus [Applause] Simo we're now heading up towards carries high points and not quite matching it 34 + 4 kya are depending on how the judges saw that one I think it'll be a 34 a 33 plus they lightest apologizes hen suspended [Music] sympathetic stage I was great to work they to a narrow sack is always a pleasure to watch on the meet while the way he Springs between the heart could see him a couple of times just thinking about the fee takes one look at the fourth size just to jump to the next hole not in that movie particular head stood on a carpet of the smaller hole just keeps jumping keeps moving it's great got the broken bones back is causing a little bit of insurance loss this is the movie I was talking about he tried to use it right here decided it was not even worth the effort and just camped up to the right hand decided to look really pumped at this point yeah it's 34 for Thermo so it was felt that he he got that whole 34 oh yeah pretty easy judgment now we see it again 350 it's 15 left on the clock he was pulling onto the head wall to wrap down a drainpipe to motor up that route 2 minutes 45 to get three calls from the way up a world championship leader is pretty impressive though so not the most sympathetic landing he's ever had had an incident earlier this year where you have you gone Brett clobbered the flowers of the front of the stage at the be loading quite at the time right I have to say the B layers on the whole do a pretty fabulous job because if you do get it wrong no doubt you've made a mistake it's very very rare we see even the minor incidents of our function down a bit hard kudos to the volunteers who come and be like the world championships on the couches right now [Music] ten days huge movement next is gonna come out again to complete for us on the lead wall even a consumer went toe to toe can he go one better today could be even see a top yeah I mean damn in terms of potentially winning the overall title if it did see that shakhter in terms of winning the overall title or Adam can do is come first in the lead and see where that leaves him but still be overtaken by Yan Hoya even if he tops the route and or Jakov Shubert but as a saver yeah if he wins the lead portion of this combined final then he's given him yourself a chance for now I think this is our opportunity potentially won't get the win here but just to enjoy Adam Andrew on a route that's one of the great sights in climbing yet to list his achievements in the space of a six minute lead route is basically impossible he's an incredible climber an icon of the sport came about as opposed to winning the lead and World Championships as you can come he has previously won it anyway two times in fact 2014 and 2016 is awesome under bouldering couldn't quite find it this time not bothered that's all by the gym get through this sex without having any issues with the broke say look like you might have led across there with his left hand that would go mean all sorts of trouble it could be interesting Mike the other cuz he's got here we can match that next hold does match it it doesn't use the little tip on the round so I'm a mistake Who am I to question out a mantra well he's climbing it roughly tamo apace if not slightly quicker so far Adam I don't know he's got somewhere to be but he looks like hot so he told me this leader who's fast as possible exactly rocketing of their mind you could be quite sensible from it because if it came to time could make all the difference for him yeah I mean he's traditionally a very fast climber he is yeah but by his staff these motor in here [Music] every port that could have been initial early scare there but it obviously read the secret that's different to the Japanese firing through this route now and this you quite enjoy this next section it's a little bit of a rest before getting into some heinous crimps go straight up bypasses the rest completely bypassed is one of the whole dozen even use whole twenty-two twenty-three I think it was slowing here at an Andhra yeah it's actually a minute faster almost in Samoa and this stage so after this out of order all we could do is with the lead and see how Jakob Superboy get off well it's winning in the moments that's easy early life point [Applause] that's 38 per atom [Applause] very volatile all 9 total of 44 here 40 hello it's the last hole that series of three volumes at the top slapping out towards hold them before tea one needs to come back right now on to 42 and 43 there's 42 crowd enjoying this you know they're watching one of the great climbers of all time doing what he does best that's 42 cotton [Applause] on his way to over 43 that would be 42 for saving for atom 42 or 42 plus depending on how the jerky saw it know which is the Olympia Arthur's disappointment in their pondering semi-finals so great seen back on the stage you did put on a good performance at top levels a crazy drop in fact it went into the deepest rockne I've ever seen a huge crossover just one move off the finishing jug as a great show from at around Jeff Inc gauging by his reaction when he came down early feels like fair enough him possibly to as best I could today after the speed I'm watching there's the big cross yeah I think one thing that's been highlighted Adam Andra may have suspected this but he'll now know is that speed really matters you can't come off the speed wall with that much work to do so that's where it ended for Adam he's been given a 42 and now 42 plus I have to say wasn't give him the bluffs there now he has been given importance to possible and shapes entire ardor and shape for kakora fuji an imam drew [Music] here comes Yan Hoya Karachi with this competition third on the lead wall but it would rely on Jakov basically having a bit of a disaster yeah we could be in the situation where Jakov Schubert from Innsbruck comes out in Innsbruck in front of his home crowd to win his second World Championship medal of the week sorry there a second for young apologies it would be could be enough gotta say we know he is more of a boulder in the lead climber but if if find a massive performance here I think we'd have to have the roof line of his life right here young lawyer he's pretty funny about climbing yeah we've been around and the European outside in this summer for the lead World Cups and whenever I chat to him he plays it down a little bit he's just a very good route part of the always says oh I just try and climb as fast as I can I don't choke up or anything he was fun he was there very proud of the fact that him viel are the first leader woke up the season the only chalked up three times in the weekend surprised I mean an accent just mr. tear that holds out once again in the borders missed out to the holes this time en his hands slightly wrong in the pockets below but no bother just y'all through I think to be honest he quite suits him down playing his leading abilities a much better lead climber they didn't have you believe Yunho you don't get to World Cup finals in lead without being pretty handy better he tries to play it down got the jump now struggle with that clever climb in there gets his toe on I think just a clip I think you release that before he now moves on this next section I think so much power looks like a man on dread they're moving the same way they skip so another whole gang [Music] this top section again setting a pretty fierce pace it's only a minute and a half elapsed p.m. it's absolutely giving this everything he's got now feed off again feedback on keeping the pace up here at a Monza and yunho excuse me really begins a fire we just saw a glimpse of his face and he was starting to look pretty pumped yunhai of us a really good effort from him as I say don't let him tell you as much much believe climate no doubt he's still stronger on the boulders but his lead climbing his speed climbing improving all the time and with the Olympics looming he want to win the Olympics you've got to beat him and that is a pretty formidable challenge have a look at this top section he sort of went from no pump to 100 cent pumping about free moves there I think as you would expect from a boulder oh really yeah most farms know how that feels that be pleased to see that it happens to the best of them the big cross would play two pumps unfortunately on the left arm this is it then Charlie it hits it yeah 26 for ya so if Yakov Schubert gets fifth place you will have 10 ranking points and Adam Andra will win the lead and he'll also have 10 Mackay boys but Jakob will take the win because he was ahead of other in two disciplines and Adam was ahead of everyone so fifth place will do it for ya of Schubert as a 26 plus and we just saw and Hoya given his abilities on the lead wall Jakob Schubert given his pedigree you would fancy him who actually taught the route he had certainly fans him to at least match yeah and Hoyas performance basalt we could see a slip we could see a big mistake we could see the nerves get serve and he just does something something completely inexplicable and completely miss reads through but the act of Schubert's [Music] [Applause] [Music] it's not important to win this he was awesome on the bar drink it was very good on the speed what can you do on the lead yeah I said it in relation to Adam honoree see what a good result for you does yeah ketubah it's been on the front foot all day he was second on the speed of that you set him up now Steve just got a little less pressure you have a bad day on the speed Adam Andra didn't have a bad day he was fifth and he hasn't been training the speed much but looking forward to the Olympics if that happens you get a bad results on the speed you're putting yourself under big pressure you got so much ground to make up whereas if you have a really good day on the speed like yeah cup diggin to take second place your whole mindset changes you're already out in front and you're looking over your shoulder people trying to catch you and that's a much easier position to wish to find yourself right now we've just got to get through this nerve wracking early section really cleanly and make no mistakes just having a look at the jumper the mountain counties but quite low in the dish rather than on top of the flu hold their search for a pretty big moment here because if ya cough doesn't get the job done Adam on that's good to be the combined champion ya Corp I think was well aware of that looked slightly nervous before he went through he's read it the same way as Jana and Adam did you can see who is reading the routes together here Japanese reading together three Europeans reading together does go slightly differently to that one though it doesn't match no issues in the eggs he's got such a good right here in that good just got measure his room perfectly here [Music] so you can see they're young Joya 26 plus Jakob needs to get past that move himself into fifth and then from there on out it is little more than a victory lap few more moves to go though he's actually really beginning to grimace I hope perhaps maybe instead to talk to the occasion I hope he isn't shocked over climbing this Jakov I think it's gonna be massively tired from the following round as well going to get four tops they're gonna to to get four tops in the Padres gonna be physically burnt here and I went this is the key moment Jack of Schubert crosses through onto hole 27 and with it secures at least bid place in the lead and with it secures the overall combined world championship look like you slightly nervous lower on the Rouge and who can blame him looking winning a second World Championship in front of his home city he may or may not know it but either way he's going to win this combined competition he made it that been easier for himself by going so well on this [Applause] could we the Hollywood ending to this 11 day festival of climbing Aaron intro and half the local hero topping the final room to take hold early go he's already going to take home the gold can he end the story on the perfect now he's looking tiny up group Schubert's laps over the laptop we're not worth to see it up but we are going to see it's a Roman crown combined world champion in front of his home crowd yeah cops [Applause] he's look the favorite really from when he looked so strong Patty's done it another Austrian God they don't the crowd on their feet of course it was a great show back up Schubert after say Charlie his speed result same up perfectly he's bouldering was actually phenomenal he looked tired on the lead group classic yak October he always managed to drop into an extra gear as he looked I'd pushed through that movie annoy I fed off around new 2526 got it done and a fantastic result overall say he was the best competitor on the combined competition they helped super a very well deserved gold medal yeah fantastic in the speed but tusks in the bullring than with his best discipline still to come it always look like we might like we thank you so much be company came straight in the air of airport of Thursday to broadcast on Thursday evening now going straight back on to Munich to go home thank you very much for your company and if you see my Langley Munich Airport tonight buy my beer I'm off down to the plug to interview Jakob Juba so you guys fantastic to be here absolutely loved every minute of it [Applause] and we'll just stick around just until we get up to the interview fantastic scene to a maniac approver Adam Andra yeah enjoy the free Japanese so much love between all of them Andra was the best in their day on the route slate redemption for going their way with the silver medal against Yakov earlier on in the week we've seen that with both Yaya and rebounded now both silver this what Brown did better in the lead in the combined yeah Kobe starting to look really pumped quite early on the room here such as the fatigue for him it really does have that ability to dig deep will have some we've seen it so many times with his World Cup victories he looks tired a little sudden just find something extra always has that extra 15% the coaches are always looking for [Applause] the elbows are really blown just manage to get one more move let's talk about training just try and get one more new she always finds one more move it in the end poverty 8 it's just too small for that level of pump and it takes the victory we said it would mean a lot to him huge crowd here in Austria we're always behind him from the very beginning and for them to end the week with another victory for an Austrian home advantage really working for them here [Applause] [Music] [Music] now you can see the final result on the men's lead competition that's not the overall result Adam Andre wins the leading the fourth two-plus very very impressive show for him I think he's got an Olympic future for sure if he continues to go down that path and there is the final combined ranking Jakov Schubert top of the pack Alejandra goes behind in second and Yan Hoya in fur takes the bronze medal just four on the board but Jakob Schubert second in the speed was perfect for him first in bouldering very shortly we're bringing you an interview with Jakob after ETV jumped in there first [Music] have a little recap as to the component competition up on the very first high FSC senior combine competition the Olympic combines the big decision to go to the Olympics for 2020 some great moments and a great competition lots of talking points all the way through not just the combined put lots of action all in this week I think overall it is a great way to finish a fantastic week's binding the discussions will continue certainly start on a number of points especially about the Olympics before to catching up on all of that well champions again Tokio 2019 World Championships then the big one Tokyo 2020 for the Olympics lack of joy that was prolific today [Music] Spence Boulder there before easiest of the lot steady tour to finish for the men still had to get it done though it is a slightly different head game on the final border we can't cut down to the wall though Charlie has the winner Jakob Schubert lack of a week ago we were here you just won the lead World Championship in front of your home crowd now you've won the combined is it just as special the second time round yeah I mean obviously winning the lead was like the most special thing ever I was even a bigger crowd tonight everything was like maybe even a bit bigger and it was like my biggest dream winning to leave title here in Innsbruck but obviously like I mean getting another gold medal is yeah beyond unbelievable also like just how this combined competition went through the finals just started really well and then bouldering went crazily good and then yeah before even the lead competition which is obviously my best discipline I already knew I don't have to climb that far to get the gold medal so yeah amazing to climb in front of such a home crowd again and then get another title they're crazy and when he came out for the lead you knew her well the speed had gone you knew how well the bouldering had gone was it just a case of controlling your nerves and you knew it was almost there yeah I mean pretty much I mean obviously all the other combined climbers and made violence they're really strong but most of them are bothering special specialists so I mean I've been on the World Cup with them a lot of times and I know if I can like get my best climbing I have a good shot of beating some of them and I knew I didn't have to beat all of them to to gain the gold medal so I knew I just had to like don't do any mistake mistakes climb save and then I should secure that title you did secure it congratulations two-time world champ in any home city thank you so much yeah unbelievable [Music] [Music] [Music] never look back at these contacts two great highlights so many great angles great footage always passing see some of these moves back in slow motion helps the end of Samoas competition our ceremony I'm closing certainly still to come here in Innsbruck [Music] interesting insight as to what the future holds for this Olympic combined so on the athletes to watch out for straight away ahead on display tonight [Music] [Applause] [Music] all the press gathered down the far right-hand end of the hall then for the final interviews the final bit of action here in interpret Charlie you've been here from the very beginning an epic week of climbing yeah an epic 11 days I mean we got started I think it was either last Wednesday or Thursday I mean long since lost lost track of the days it's just been fantastic it's fun find myself skipping into the venue every day because the action has been excellent it's just been a wonderful celebration of our sport and because the Olympics is coming up we've got another World Championships next year the World Championships will now be on there odd years that's gonna be 19 21 23 and so on so we've got another one next year in them Pat GOG but yeah it's been fantastic wonderful celebration of the sport and reflecting back on the combine this is like I said it's one of the first combines and we've actually covered who did the UK temperatures last Rivest on the senior from the big senior events and opinion on the Olympic combined I think it was fascinating we haven't had enough of them by any means to really make a judgement on the advanced tactics that people will use we're not entirely sure how people will approach it one thing that's very clear I think is that you have to be very very strong in two disciplines which just because they're relatively similar to each other will almost certainly be leading bowling and then you need to be pretty strong in the street as well you are inevitably in a three discipline event going to have one that you're not as good at that's inevitable if you watch a decathlon heptathlon whatever you're always going to have a weaker discipline but you need to make that weakness as small as possible because we saw today Adam Andra he was first of the lead second in the bouldering and still didn't secure the title because of the speed and if you leave the speed wall with a lot of work to do you're really going to struggle to make it up on what we saw with yak of doing really well on the speed he came himself a huge amount of breathing room on the final lead route yeah Anna Anna that's a key point because your whole psychology changes Adam Andrei comes off the speed wall thinking got to deliver her first ball that starts going not very well then he thinking to yourself oh no oh no where's Yoko he comes on to the bouldering he can think don't rely this first Boulder oh well forget it done it get it done and if not well hey you know I'm already in a good position so challenge is everything I think you asked me what we've learned that I really think we've learned that speed is very very important you can't how it can't be a glaring weakness and whoever comes off the speed wall in fifth and six plays may have ended their Olympic dream almost before it gets underway when we get to Tokyo in 2020 yeah I think for the time we do get to Tokyo 2020 happily it's gonna be much more matched on these disciplines as well I think we're really gonna dedicate themselves to it now they've seen the format works have seen stepping it up there boy is gonna be looking into his need a bit more too much it's gonna carry on doing what it's doing yeah come Schubert would be well advised to just do whatever it is it's got in this part that seems to be work [Applause] a week she's had it's a yeah salsa it was performance from salsa was quite open about the fact she was just delighted to be in the final the problem for her if you like we're sitting she was hunting down yeah Mia gone breath or the lead wall and many have tried and not many have succeeded in that task but still a silver medal an absolutely fabulous achievement for her and here is a different candy camera I think getting ready to be presented interesting elements of doing the live interviews be heard yeah I'm saying one thing it's very bad to be in Yonkers you're not going to get any PR to exactly what he thinks quite interesting that I think all the climbers perhaps view this as a test to see what it's like it's a lovely way to finish the World Championships but I think both Yaya and Jakov were happier with their gold medals in the individual disciplines could you say the same in 2020 if there was a big champion say it's not gonna be a world temperatures but if they were win a World Championships or an Olympic gold medal I'll take the Olympics any day of the week but it's still two years away in the world championship until we get to the Olympics remains the biggest prize in climbing it will be the biggest prize in climbing until the summer of 2020 got a great summary and it will be eclipsed there until then it is still the biggest prize to win one of the individual disciplines [Music] goodbye champion I mean I think most people have got her down as a pretty strong favorite in Tokyo already two years out you've got to be good on the speech she left herself a lot to do luckily she's Yannick and Brett so she can afford to leave herself a lot to do but if you leave yourself a lot to do zoom in a second after the Slovenian national anthem [Music] [Applause] there is young you're gone Brett typologies are talking with the first few bars of the anthem they'll normally flower so many's we've had here in the Olympia world we haven't had anthem some sport slightly off guard by the Slovenian national anthem which having watched the undergarment for a few years with I'm incredibly familiar know every every note and every bar it's another time she hears it and she is a combined world champion of 2018 my question boy Charlie with me can yank Gaborik keep up this level of performance she's young winning everything she's clearly the best climber can she keep it up well there's a couple of things that happen injuries happen Molly Thompson Smith Britain's leading female lead player suffered a horrific finger injury was in the end of last year surgery at the start of this year I don't remember exactly when the injury was but either way injuries happen famous expedient mount today here on our Twp Thomas humor excuse me had a bit of a brain fart Thomas whom are the famous Slovenian Mountaineer had fell into his cellar and broke both his legs things happen so an injury happens I think other than injury really only a loss of motivation could see yeah Mia toppled I think she's just too good if the motivation is there to train and she's always saying I never struggled to be motivated I get out of bed every day and I wants to train I don't even like taking rest days if she can keep that up I I think she's I don't want stoppable but as close to unstoppable as you can be two years out from the Olympics I wonder now if the coaches will analyze this and start to reduce the number of competitions that she enters sketches from Farah we're at airport as my schedule is insane if you want to do all of the bouldering all the leading the speed she'll just be training there but it is a hectic schedule it's a lot of travelling takes a lot out of your body now we'll start CFDs reducing number competitions are doing this time to focus on something really big important ones yeah I think iyanya will do a full lead and Boulder season next year that's the plan as far as I know and every time I've asked her about it but whether she then does up the year after the Olympic year I'd be a bit more doubtful I would imagine it she'll pre took her pretty hard of the competition's next year get all that experience and all that mileage in and then might just try a little smarter in 2020 with how she manages her work though but it's worth remembering Mike come the Olympics she's still only be 21 we're talking about workload on a body it's different when you get to your late 30s your late twenties and you've been doing this a long time yeah you still not been at that at this game that long but I do I do agree that you will over the next 18 months perhaps is begin to change shed you're slightly see how the mantra back on the podium Oya [Music] as you know a lot of people expecting big things of him in Tokyo and he had a pretty good day here the Olympic combined bronze for him again as I said it's in no way to criticize a competition I think it's been fabulous entertainment very interesting and pose as many questions as it's provided answers for us but there's no doubt that the climbers were using this as a test to see how it went really and ya know I'm pretty happy with that bronze medal [Music] can you go baby twenty-one was it she will be in Tokyo yeah 21 that's reached okay touch on the older side and meeting for a long time konnichi there 20 and now yeah cop so be 30 and it'll be a page will be a factor this Adam on for second place for him if you can just get that speeder climbing a little bit quicker he's going to see some stuff in the Olympics yeah I agree em yeah call will be 30 there's Hannah Schubert sister of Jakob and immensely strong I foresee competitor herself made the final for the women's lead world championship last weekend but yeah yeah copy are we 30 does make a difference the thing is he just seems to get stronger in winning medals as far back as I can remember in the night Missy yeah yeah cops one of those guys is just there you look at a World Cup podium there's yeah he's been doing it that long and now he can't see any reason he wouldn't stop doing it if motivation was to wait as you mentioned with young you thought the Olympics now being less than two years away is surely enough to get you out of bed in the morning whole new incentive this will certainly help lack of Zuber can find a world champion in his home city [Music] of course of course he's been dreaming of this moment big crown world champion in Innsbruck for twice in a week don't be greedy so yeah Noah Adam Andra and Jakob Schubert some pody in that it's funny our in competitions the momentum comes and goes to certain climbers and people rear up somehow the cream always seems to rise to the top and I think that podium speaks volumes does it means and lots of these guys they are on the railroad now to Tokyo 2020 surely now will the Austrian national anthem in commemoration of the Jakob Schubert winning the combined World Championship [Music] Jakov Schubert world champion in the lead world champion in the combined what a world championship spin for him just incredible as I say Hana dirt down the front okay Mike this festival of climbing is about to conclude thank you so much for your company and hey bring on how to you [Music] see you the next one thank you guys for watching [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

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Views: 495,140

Rating: 4.617178 out of 5

Keywords: sport, climbing, 2018, IFSC, #IFSCwch, Combined, Final, Men, Replay, World, Championship, Innsbruck, Austria

Id: QQZnVEeBigY

Length: 197min 25sec (11845 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 16 2018