TUTORIAL | Dark Hair To LIGHT Brown | FULL Application + Formulation

so here is the video that has been highly anticipated here is the before to my client and this is the transition that we will be doing today the service took a little over eight hours so this is a long video so get your popcorn get comfortable i hope you enjoy this there were some some bumps in the road but ultimately everything worked out in the end so i hope you like this video and don't forget to like and subscribe [Music] you guys can follow me over on instagram at christy at the cottage hey guys so i'm on my way to the beauty supply store right now and if you guys follow my youtube stories then you already saw like part of this because i already uploaded there or uploaded this part to that um anyways so i'm on my way to the beauty supply store and the client that i'm going to be doing today is probably she's probably like a level two three and i've done her hair before and she has very thick hair and i'm actually really glad that she chopped her hair off because what she wants done is is even with shorter hair still going to take all day she you know that kind of like the kardashians how they have that kind of caramelly brown i feel like that's really popular right now um so that's what she wants just kind of that like kind of a cooler caramel brown tone so um last night i was literally falling asleep trying to think about how am i gonna go about tackling this service um am i gonna like bleach out like do a bleach and tone or foil or hair and bleach it like just trying to think about how to go about the service so um like what toners to use how light am i gonna lift her all of this stuff so i just thought i'd bring you along the way and kind of show you my thought process through trying to pick out what products to use what toner to use what developer to use um i was kind of debating about that last night because schwarzkopf blind me gets nine levels of lift i get a really good clean lift when i use that but i don't know that i want to lift her to like as light as the schwarzkopf will lift her because i know it's going to sit for a while so um i might use like a lesser developer like maybe 15 instead of 20 or you know usually when i mean doing really dark hair i'll take really thin fine sections but maybe i'll take thicker sections so that they don't lift as much i just like all those things that make a difference so um anyways i'm i'm driving there and i will kind of show you guys what i'm trying to figure out as i pick out color whatnot so um yeah i'll see you at the beauty supply store okay so i'm here at the beauty supply store and i'm thinking that i definitely want to grab some level seven and eight because these are kind of like the natural i think she's kind of wanting to be like right in here but i think adding a level seven for some depth will be good so i'm gonna do some seven and eight and then because she's gonna lift so warm i definitely need some cooler tones and they're also so i think i'm gonna grab some of the seven i'll do a couple of these seven one or seven one and we'll just start with that for now and i know i have some other stuff at this one too that i'll probably look through oh yeah and i'm also almost out of bleach so i need more okay so i just got to the salon and i just talked to my client and so basically what i would have to do for her service is go through and basically platinum card her whole head leaving the roots out and then let that process go through and then um bleach out her roots let that process tone her hair and then go back through and do some balayage pieces because she wants some areas where it's like actually more blonde than just caramel um and so i sat with her and i was talking to her about pricing or whatever because i know pricing is a big thing with a stylus not really knowing how much to charge for a service and or even how to talk about it to your client and so the way that i handled it was just i sat down was like look so let's go over pricing because this is a really big service and i don't want there to be any like surprises at the end where you know it's 800 or something like that so um i just asked her like you know do you have a price range that you want to stay within whatever and she she said well because i cut all my hair off like isn't it going to be less expensive than last time which i think her last service was like 500 because her hair was very very long and we did a very heavy full um foilage to like a really pretty caramel color and i told her that um even though you chopped your hair off um we're actually going to be using more bleach than last time because last time we did a balayage but this time we're actually going to be bleaching out your whole head and probably using way more bleach than we did last time because we have to keep reapplying potentially and then go back through and hit your roots um and we're bleaching out everything versus just balayaging some of the hair and so i told her even though it's shorter it's they're still two completely different services and each one you know they're expensive for two for different reasons so i told her you know i don't know how much it's gonna be but it's still probably gonna be if we do the full thing if we bleach out all of your head and then tone but then we have to um go through and do the balayage pieces to get some brighter blonde and then tone a second time i would say that that would probably be around like 750 dollars for how long of a service and all those stuff that we're gonna have to do so um i told her you know maybe we could do a partial or maybe we'd go through and do like a heavy foil you still have some of your natural in there um maybe instead of bleaching out your whole head maybe we just leave out this section underneath and don't even touch that so we're still bleaching and doing the full service but we're just really doing from here and above and that's kind of the decision the conclusion that we came to that it's probably going to be around 500 the same as last time but um because i told her we're still gonna have to bleach everything reapply bleach your roots out wash tone come back where you play again essentially we're doing two completely different services in one so that's where the cost of the service comes from and i just explained all of that to her so and that's when i said but we can do whatever it's just you know whatever you're comfortable with and your decision on what you want to do so she decided that we're just going to leave out this bottom half and still do the whole thing um like on the top half so i think it's really important to sit down with your clients and talk to them about that kind of stuff because you don't want to come to the end of the service and they're thinking like oh my hair shorter so it should be less expensive but it's a completely different service than last time it still requires a whole bunch of bleach and color and all these different steps and processes or whatever so that's why the price is still going to be expensive um i know some people are probably going to say why don't you go through with a high lift like a 6aa with like 30 volume or something and i really don't like doing it because i feel like there's no control really of lift i feel like um going through with a permanent color is just gonna expose a lot of warmth and have it be too orangey or too caramelly and i know you can tone it down but i feel like whenever i use a high lift on somebody like i'm not going to go through with 40 volume and put it on the roots or 30 volume even i don't even like that so i feel like that's okay to do a high lift if you're gonna go through and foil the hair um but because we're doing that solid i feel like i just don't like that idea also because she has previous like semi-permanent color on her ends from what we did before i wouldn't want to worry that the ends of her hair aren't going to look as good as like the mid shaft i hate that word um or her root area so that's why i want to go through and use bleach so that i can be in control of the lift because she wants to be kind of like a level eight and i just don't ever i feel like no matter what if i use like a 6aa or an 8aa we're still going to be stuck at like i feel like a 6 double ash really only lifts to a level 5. i feel like an eight probably only lifts to level six so i feel like i'm never gonna get as good of lift as i want um than if i just were to use bleach anyways so sorry i know this is kind of going on and if you're not a stylist then go ahead and skip forward or if you don't care about this kind of stuff that's fine so i just wanted to give my kind of idea on that type of thing anytime i've used high lift because somebody else recommended it i used it and it just didn't work out like it would have if i just would have bleached the hair out in the first place so um that's what we're going to do for the service today um i'm just going to go through also i want to say i'm usually such a meticulous foiler don't feel like if you're doing a service like this like don't worry about the detail work and where the foils are gonna lay and how you're foiling this way to make sure you get the money piece whatever because we're lifting the whole head we're not doing anything fancy i mean it is a lot of work we're not doing fancy foil work where it matters exactly how you position the foils or whatever so that's going to be something i struggle with today is just throwing the foils in and not worrying about if they're perfect or not um so and also with dark hair to get good lift you usually want to do like very thin fine foils but because i don't want her to lift to a level nine or ten i'm actually going to take thicker sections today that will leave her i want to lift her probably to like a level eight that's my goal eight and a half or so and then we'll tone down to be like at a seven so um let's mix i'm going to be using schwarzkopf blondie with probably to start just like 15 volume 10 15 volume okay bye okay really fast before i get started i want to show you guys my bowl of bleach that i'm mixing some people ask how much to do so this is my bleach and you can see it's a pretty full ball of bleach that's because i know her hair is very thick and i'm gonna have to use a lot of bleach to saturate so in this case i feel like it's okay to over mix and do like um a scoop and a half to do scoops and heavy on the developer if you need to that way um you don't have to keep going back every like 10 minutes or whatever um again charge for every scoop whatever that you're using just know that you know this isn't going to last me an hour this is probably going to last me 30 minutes and then i'll probably remix every 30 minutes to keep my bleach fresh to make sure that i have like you know good lift and everything like that um i don't like mixing a huge bowl and then using that for my whole foil because then you know that could take an hour by the time you get to the last oils that you're putting in your bleach is going to be weak and not have much lifting power in it anymore but because i know our hair is so thick and i'm gonna be reapplying um i feel like it's okay to use more bleach because it's really not gonna last me as long as what it looks like it's going to okay [Music] okay here's my client's before and the way that the light is reflecting off of her hair it does not even go to show you guys how dark her hair is and i'm trying to show you how thick her hair is that's just like one handful of hair with some clients that would be their whole head of hair and that one handful so i'm trying to convey to you guys how dark and how thick her hair is i mean it's literally massive so we're gonna start by sectioning off her hair and then work on this back section and i'm just gonna make sure that she's okay with the amount of hair that we're leaving behind because ultimately um you know she wants to stay within her price range or whatever but i also want to make sure that she's okay with the amount of dark that we're leaving underneath at the nape of the neck um i just want to have you look at this so this is the hair that i've set aside that we're not gonna do i kind of did it at an angle so that way it kind of looks more than just you know straight across so go ahead and just check and make sure that you're okay with how much hair there is left behind is that okay is that too much is it not enough that should be fine is that okay okay [Music] all right so everything looks good so we're just going to secure this and i'm also going to take some deep conditioner and i'm going to apply this just kind of right on top of the hair that we're leaving behind because i know that i'm going to have some foils that are probably going to slide we're using a massive amount of bleach so i want to protect it from bleeding onto this hair [Music] i want to show you guys the consistency of the bleach that i'm using i'm doing it a little bit thicker just because i want to make sure that we get really great saturation for how darker hairs and how much lightening that we have to do so we're just going to start off by taking not really thick sections i am doing them a little bit thicker than if we were trying to go for blonde um normally with super dark hair when you're trying to go for blonde i do like the thinnest little sections that i can but because we're trying to stay in like a level eight range um and i don't want it to process too fast i'm going to take a little bit thicker of a section that way it doesn't lighten up a whole bunch or too fast or whatever so i'm just going to use my board and you can see that i'm staying probably within an inch away from her roots and that's because we don't want to hit the roots yet because for one i don't want to start from root to end because you don't want that to sit on her scalp for so long and then cause irritation so just to start off we're going to foil within an inch roughly of her roots and foil all the way through the ends and this will hopefully lighten up her hair nice and slow because this is i'm assuming at this point when i'm applying this is probably going to be in her hair for three hours that's why i'm doing this full application so i want to make sure that it's not lightening too much or too fast because i don't want to have to rinse it out and then disrupt the rest of the service or my application or whatever so definitely doing a low and slow developer to make sure that we don't get super fast lift and then potentially cause damage so um this is just what we're going to do to start the service off [Music] so [Music] and i want you guys to pay attention to how thick of a saturation that i'm doing and how much bleach i'm using per one foil the amount of bleach that i use you would think that that's gonna last me a long time but actually it really doesn't get me very far only gets me about halfway up this back section of the head i have a lot of people that have a hard time lifting really dark hair and i feel like it's because it's two things your section is too thick and you don't and second you don't have heavy enough saturation i've had a few clients that have really dark hair and they always kind of get stuck in that caramel tone they've never had a stylist be able to get them to a nice pretty blonde color in the first session and i remember one time i was doing this girl's hair and after processing for about 45 minutes i went and remixed some more bleach and i went back back through while all the foils were still in her head and i was just checking every single one of them and reapplying bleach and she was like what are you doing and i told her that i'm reapplying to make sure that we can continue lifting and get a little bit lighter and she's like i've never had a stylist do that before i'm like what she and she's like no i've never had a stylist go through and reapply bleach and i was just thinking like that must be why people are having a hard time getting good lifts with dark hair because they're not reapplying or they don't know to reapply or they feel like oh it stopped working this is the amount of lightness that we can get for this session but that's not true if you're kind of stuck at a level eight don't be afraid if the hair is in good condition to go back through and reapply um just to get it to keep lifting a little bit get some fresh bleach on there and use smaller bowls when you're mixing don't mix a huge bowl and expect to use that for the whole service make sure you're only mixing enough to last you for about 30 minutes so that way every 30 minutes you can get a fresh bowl of bleach and to make sure that you're getting nice even consistent lift through your whole application [Music] right here i just really wanted to show you guys how little that bowl really got me i really only got these few packets of bleach in because i'm using such a heavy amount of bleach to saturate the hair so i wanted to show you that one little bowl really didn't get me very far and i'm going to show you guys throughout the service this is my first refill two scoops each and right now where i'm feeling the foils i just want to see what the temperature is if it's feeling hot or not and if it's starting to process but because we use a lesser developer it's going to process pretty slow but i just wanted to double check and see how it was feeling if it was already starting to feel hot so that tells me that it's not quite yet feeling warm at all actually at this point in the service so i know that it's not going to process too fast because i'm not using 20 volume which normally would start feeling a little bit warm at this point [Music] i'm really not going to make you guys sit here and watch four hours of this repetitive application but i'm thinking i'll show you guys my bowls of bleach and how far i am in my application so you can see exactly how much bleach i ended up having to use and where i was at that point in the service and you are really not mistaken that one bowl of bleach really only got me to this back top of the crown area of the head it really only got me that small little section because we had to use such heavy application i don't think people realize how much bleach we have to use for these services and that's why the cost is so much and i go over the breakdown of the service for the pricing at the very very end of the video but just for a heads up for those of you that don't make it through the end of this um video the extra bowl of bleach cost for this service was roughly 200 that's how much bleach we had to use and i almost that 110 that i bought at the beauty supply store which i'm so glad that i bought it i ended up using practically that whole tin just for this service [Music] now that this top section is a little bit smaller i'm just going to start going straight down the middle of the mohawk [Music] section [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] [Music] [Music] now i'm on my third bowl of bleach my third refill i should say two scoops each plus olaplex with my first initial bowl of bleach which would be four so that's still literally eight scoops of bleach and you can see that it's just this back section right here that i've done and i still have the whole sides in front left to do um and this is at the point in the service where i realized that i'm not going to do the sides first i'm going to continue my way down the mohawk section so right here i'm actually measuring where um how large this size should be because i don't want to extend beyond the foil because i don't want any drag and then it's not going to get very good lift also because i'm going to be going through and moving the foils around and kind of pulling the back to hit her roots later on in the service i want to make sure that they're not pulling or anything so that's why i'm measuring to make sure that everything is going to fit exactly how i want it as we make our way down the center of the mohawk section [Music] [Music] i want to add that at this point in the service is kind of when i want the top to start processing a little bit faster which is why i decided to start with the mohawk section versus going down through the sides because the back has been processing for probably almost an hour and a half maybe two hours at this point so i know we're getting some lift i've been checking it throughout the whole application process so far and i don't want this to take too long so i'm going a little bit heavier when i mix with 20 volume versus like seven volume because i want it to pick up and have a little bit more speed and better lift to it especially because we're on the top part of the head it's not gonna incubate as much because it doesn't have all that heat from underneath and all the foils lean on top of it so that's why i'm gonna start on the top versus the sides because i really want this to start processing i'm also going to start taking thinner sections because the thinner the section the better the lift however i'm not going to start taking like super thin baby lights or super thin slices or anything because i don't want this to get too too light i don't want this to be like a level 9 or 10 or anything i still want it to be like in the eight and a half range so deciding like how thin or how thick of slices is gonna determine your amount of lift so um also because we're going to be pulling these foils back and hitting her roots you want to make sure that you're not leaving too doing too thick of sections because you want to make sure that you can saturate the roots good enough when we go back through at that point of the service [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] i started working on the front side of my client's face and at this point in the service you want to make sure you tell your client to close their eyes because you're using so much bleach and sometimes it's falling off the side of the board or sometimes bleach just flings around you guys so i made sure to tell her to keep her eyes closed as i was working on this front section just to be safe and also i forgot to mention but i am now on my fourth bowl of bleach i just forgot to show you guys when i um started my application but i just did this one foil so that top section in the back area was my whole third bowl and now i'm starting my fourth bowl here you can see the ends are already pretty light she's probably like a level eight through the ends maybe level nine not quite uh but she has some of the dark hair kind of going through the ends for where we weaved her money piece out from the first service that we did so because i really want to be cautious of her hair not create any damage i'm trying to weave out those little dark pieces of hair and i'm going to leave all that blonde out i don't want to overlap as much as possible if i can prevent that from happening so any of these areas where you can see there's a heavy amount of blonde through the ends i'm not gonna quite yet run the bleach through there i'm gonna wait towards the end of the application um just to make sure that we keep the integrity of the hair and prevent any damage but we're just gonna weave any of those dark pieces up because again she really doesn't want any of her natural through the hair at all so we're just gonna try to pick up those pieces as best as we can okay now that we're starting on the sides of the head i'm just really quickly going to check through the back section and see how those are feeling if they need to be pulled out i kind of did a pull test every now and then to see how it feels if it's feeling stretchy or not and everything still feels good so what i'm going to do here is i'm going to start on the side and i'm going to go from one side to the very next because i want to make sure that we have even lift and i don't want one side to process faster than the other side so that's why you'll see me start here then go to the next side do another one go to the other side and switch back and forth so um this is processing if at any point we need to rinse the foil out then we can but if i do one whole side first and then i flip over and do the other hole side then it would be really hard to rinse out one side versus the next or i don't want one side to process and get a lot lighter than the other side so that's why i like going back and forth and making sure that everything lifts at the same exact time because if i do like the bottom half of each each section then i can go through and mix another bowl of just 20 volume or even add a little bit of 30 if i want it to process even faster but if i do one whole side then that's going to process faster then i'm gonna have to go start on the other side and then that might take a little bit longer to catch up where i can always rinse out the bottom half but then i don't want to you know what i mean like it just gets kind of complicated in my opinion if you do one whole half first and then go to the other half i feel like it's not going to come out as even or if you have to rinse out early then that makes it a little bit harder to do [Music] i'm just going to continue this up the rest of the sides of the head and then when we get there i'll kind of let it process for probably like 15 20 minutes or so and then we'll refresh another bowl of bleach and then start hitting her roots [Music] do [Music] we're at our fifth refresh of bleach now and two scoops each so again this is so much bleach that we're using for the service and at this point i'm starting to mix 20 volume and just squirt a little bit of 30 in there just to get it going a little bit more to catch up with the back [Music] all right so here's her full application but wait we're not done we still have the roots to do so we're gonna let this sit and process but i'm gonna check everything just to see how it's going if anything needs to be pulled out or rinsed out through the ends because at this point if we have to end up washing everything out we can and then just go hit her roots separately while we wash out all the rest of her hair do a laplex treatment on the ends but we don't have to everything feels okay so we're just gonna let this continue um processing and we'll just do the roots at the same time okay so i just let my client process for about 25 minutes or so just to get her ends processing a little bit more and now we're gonna go through and do some bleach on her scalp and then i'll check the foils and run through the ends if there's anywhere that needs a little bit more of an extra boost so that's what we're gonna do right now and i don't think that i um had gone over it yet so i used total five additional bowls of bleach with two scoops each so that equals exactly 12 scoops of bleach total with olaplex and um the total application took me probably i want to say roughly three hours or so [Music] okay so i'm going to go through and i'm trying to figure out at this point like what is the best way to go about her uh root application because there are some areas in the ends where she still needs to process a little bit not a whole bunch but there is a little bit too much warmth than what we want so i don't want to pull all the foils out yet um i want to try to keep this as clean as possible so i decided that i'm going to start in the back so i'm going to flip everything forward and try to pin it up out of her face but again she knows to keep her eyes closed okay so i'm just going to start in this back right here and i'm going to work my way forward and i'm going to just hit her roots and there's a little bit of warmth where the foil line was before from when we first did our application so i'm going to just kind of bring it down into the line of demarcation just slightly to get rid of that um warmth that's there so i'm going to just hit her roots and i like the way that it works to do this application with the foils because i feel like it's a lot cleaner sometimes when you have bleach through all the ends it's kind of hard to like take a comb and like section through and everything so when you have everything in a foil all you have to do is just grab the foil and flip it up and do your application because we didn't take anything too large of a section where you have to worry about splitting these foils in half or anything everything's already sectioned enough to where we can just like hit the roots and we know that the saturation is going to be good because our sectioning wasn't too big or anything like that so i like doing my application this way because it stays nice and clean and i can flip the foils over the top of her head and i don't have to worry if anything's gonna really like fall on her face or bleach or bleach flopping around or getting messy or whatever because the foil is containing it so um we're just gonna start doing our root application this way and at this point i'm only using 20 volume i don't want to do anything heavier and i don't want it to irritate her scalp so that's just what we're going to do at this point [Music] and now that we have that top section done i'm gonna pin everything up to the side and it's okay if the foils pull and all of that stuff because for the most part the ends are contained and processing a little bit more if they need to the root saturation is good so it's okay if the foils like move around and slip or whatever that's not really a big deal we're not trying to keep anything like in specific placement or anything like that if it like it's not gonna bleed it's a full bleach out so um we're just gonna continue down the back section of her head and i'm just gonna hit the roots work my way down and then on my way back up i'm just gonna double check my work again and make sure if there's anything that i miss that i need to reapply on or anything like that then i'll make sure to hit it so we're just going to finish our application right now and then move on to the sides and do the same thing and i want to show you this area right here remember when we laid deep conditioner down on her hair at the very start of the video and you can see that the bleach has gotten on there but it hasn't penetrated through the conditioner or anything like that so there's no bleeders in this area that we're going to have to retouch or anything all right now that we're done applying our root color i'm going to start at the very bottom and i'm going to start laying some foils down to insulate the root area and we're going to start pulling foils out and i'm kind of checking the ends of her hair and remember i said at the beginning that there's like a demi-permanent color from where we toned her hair last time so some of that area is a little bit brassy it's not bad right now or anything but you'll see that it's just a little bit warmer like when we wash your hair you'll notice that it's a little bit brassier through the ends but everything looks pretty good generally so i don't really have to run any more lightner through it but i always check to make sure so right now i'm just gonna keep reapplying double checking my work and then laying some foils across the top just to make sure that the roots are insulated and processing nicely [Music] and now that we're back up to the very top where we initially started doing our root retouch area i'm going to start pulling these foils out but i'm also going to check and see how these foil not the foils however her roots are processing i'm going to hit them again with some more lightener just to make sure that everything's saturated it's not drying out or anything so we're just going to continue this and also i'm going to start laying some foils across this section too to make sure that everything is insulated nicely and processing as it should [Music] okay remember those ends that we left out earlier when we were doing around the hairline now is the point of the service where we're going to start running some bleach through the ends and we're not going to like insulate it fully but we're going to just kind of leave it out and paint them that way we can keep an eye on them and make sure that they're not over processing she probably sat for another 20 30 minutes or so as her roots were lifting and now we're at the shampoo bowl we're just gonna kind of pull all these foils out as carefully as we can i swear this gets so heavy but um i just wanted to show you guys the way that she lifted and she's probably a good level eight which is exactly where we wanted her okay so my client just got done processing we just washed her out she's sitting at the sink with um an olaplex treatment so i'm getting ready to formulate for her all over toner that we're gonna do which i'm not gonna apply at the shampoo bowl she's gonna be tell dried but i'm gonna play it as an actual all-over color with suctioning and everything just to make sure um it's accurate and heavy saturation so our goal i think we want to be kind of like a seven eight so um what i'm gonna mix with it i'm gonna kind of throw a whole bunch of random things together so let's use i'm going to be using like i think the half of my like a large percentage of my formulation is gonna be level eight with like a little bit of nine just to bump it up a little bit so it kind of keeps a little bit of lightness um i'm going to use like 7 1 to cool it down a little bit because we don't want it to be like too too warm especially since she has so much like underlying warmth in her hair right now um i only have a little bit of the 742 and i think that's nice to have like a little bit of beige tones in it and then the 646 which is like a beige chocolate and i'm only gonna do like a small little these two are just gonna be a little bit to add a little bit of the tones in there not a whole bunch because they're both beige tones but one is more of an ashier beige the other one is more of a chocolatey beige so in the end it's just gonna be like a neutral beige but um i like i've said before i don't really carry the full line i just kind of go with what i have like i got the majority of my color earlier thinking that's what i needed um but i'm trying to tweak it a little bit with what i have so that's why i'm kind of throwing a whole bunch of random stuff together so the majority of my formulation is gonna be like that um probably honestly the eight and the seven one a little bit of the nine and then just this like a smidge of these two so you know it's kind of confusing but sorry all right so a little bit of nine the whole thing of eight the whole thing of seven one and just a little bit of those other two and here's her hair pre-toned nothing at all um i just wanted to show you guys what her lift was without being adjusted [Music] as i am doing my application i'm really just trying to focus in the back area and let it process first for a little bit before i go too high up on the scalp just because i know with some of the videos that i've done in the past where it's been like a cooler caramel tone it is really scary because it looks like it's grabbing so cool and then after it's said and done and i wash it out and it's drying and everything it looks perfect but that processing time son of a if it's not the scariest you know moment because it looks like it's blue it gives you a heart attack it's really scary so i'm honestly applying just this little bit right in here and i'm gonna let it sit for about 15 minutes just because i want to check it and see how the toner is because when it's underneath if i need to adjust anything to warm up a little bit i always can but i'd rather just be safe than sorry and just let it sit for a few minutes make sure that it's processing the way that i want it to and then we'll finish the application okay so at this point i let it sit for like 10 15 minutes or whatever i feel like i'm okay with the way that it's processing i've kind of pulled the toner off a little bit to check everything in my sections to make sure it's not grabbing too ashy so i'm gonna go through and i decided that i don't want to have to go back through and do like a balayage so i'm just gonna kind of weave these sections out that you see that i'm leaving behind where i'm not running the color through the ends and i'm going to keep these aside as my highlights [Music] and here i'm still checking the color because you can never be too cautious when you're dealing with ashy tones and freshly bleached hair that could grab extra porous [Music] so just as before with with my bleach application i'm doing the same here where i will do a few sections on the side and then i will flip her to the other side and start painting that side over there and the reason is because i want to make sure that i'm keeping track of exactly where i'm weaving out the hair to keep it have some blonde pieces in there um i feel like it's really easy to forget exactly what pattern you're doing unless you're doing like a very specific like um slice weave slice weave but i never do my coloring that way i'm never like too patterned out or anything so for here i'm going through and then when i flip to the other side i can remember like okay i only did like a few sections where i pulled all the way through the ends and then added one in between section that i was keeping blonde so now i'm gonna flip to the other side and repeat the same steps guys if i sound like i don't know what i'm talking about it's it's because i don't know what i'm talking about it's because it's 1 30 in the morning and i'm trying to do this um voice over because i've done it like sporadically through the day like five times but i can't get it finished and i have to upload this in a few hours i want to make sure it's done and so if i sound like i don't know what i'm talking about or if i'm not making complete sense i apologize it's because i'm tired but i love you anyways so [Music] all right so you can see that i'm pulling aside some of those hairline pieces and that's because the picture that she showed me it has a little bit of a money piece but it's not like super blonde or super bright or anything but i just want to make sure that i'm keeping track to have that stuff set aside and to make sure that i don't tap it yet because i don't want it to start oxidizing and going too dark so i'm going to finish the sides and then i'm going to hit the mohawk section and i'm kind of gonna do that a little bit more pattern to be more like highlights but i'm still gonna tap through a little bit that way everything blends really nicely so you'll see everywhere within this whole application that even though i'm leaving some hair behind i'm still going through and hitting the roots and that way everything blends really nicely and everything looks a little bit more natural and more subtle and nothing ever is going to be too bright it's just going to be a really soft little difference of a highlight versus super blonde and super bright [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now that i'm at the top of the mohawk section i'm going to take my sections and be a little bit more patterned that way i know exactly how much brightness i'm leaving behind and i want to make sure that it has nice balance i don't want it to be like super streaky or anything like that so i'm still going to hit the roots throughout this whole top section just like the rest of the hair i want it to have like a nice brightness but i want it to blend into everything so there's still going to be like a root shadow appearance to even where the highlights are so when i do my sectioning i'm probably going to have like at the most half an inch of like a dark piece and then i'm just going to take my next section and do like a weave and have that be like the blonde piece and then another half inch of dark and then a weave again of the blonde and then so on and so forth until i get to the very front of the hairline so you'll see me kind of taking turns of pulling the color all the way through the ends and then weaving my next section and i'm still going to hit the roots that way everything blends and it looks more like a balayage versus super streaky and stripy straight on the hairline right at the scalp you know we don't want it to look super chunky or anything we still want it to blend a little bit more so that's why i'm still going to paint the roots even where we're going to leave the blonde and having those pieces staying out and sorry my camera angle wasn't very good so right here i'm going to show you that i'm just taking a weave of a blonde piece again and i'm just going to tap the roots a little bit and then split it down the center and pull those blonde pieces directly to the side that way i can make sure that i'm not pulling them back as i was laying the sections where i run the color all the way through the ends i pull that straight back and then you'll see all the blonde pieces that i'm going to preserve the lightness i'm kind of pulling those down to the side so this little section i'm going to um run all the color through the ends but i want to make sure that i'm not going to transfer any of that color onto the other blonde that i've done or that i'm leaving behind so i'm actually going to put that foil down and put the dark on top of it that way and make sure that all that blonde stays nice and bright and i don't get any transfer there so we're almost done with this little section and we're going to let all this color process probably for like 30 minutes or so [Music] okay so we are toning her lightest blonde well not her lightest blonde pieces but the pieces that we left out from before when we bleached her hair um we had a conversation about it's just really hard to match this color up perfectly for how cool it is and it's like a fine line between mixing and being still too orange of a caramel tone versus like um making it like a nice cool caramel tone and i asked her would you rather me air on the side of being too cool of a caramel shade or too warm of a caramel shade and she said too cool of a caramel shade because it's always gonna warm up anyways for how much warm under pigment she has in her hair um however i feel like it's i feel like it's almost a little too cool um so what i'm toning her hair with right now is paul mitchell the demi and the reason why is because i feel like it's so translucent like it doesn't ever really tone down highlights so much like the schwarzkopf agora vibrance um if i want to cover up hair and like not be able to see highlights or do a really strong shadow root like i will always go to that but if i want something that's a little bit softer where you can still see the highlights through a little bit more than i always go to palm mitchell the demi just because it's so much softer so to try and add a little bit more warmth back into her hair i'm using paul mitchell the demi i'm using basically half and half of the 9nbc 7n so i'm definitely putting a lot more warmth back into the hair to hopefully you know make it a little bit more of a warmer tone not so cool of a caramel just a little bit more of a warmer caramel tone um and then i can see that it's not really depositing too much into the highlights so i just did half and half of this and i'm letting it sit for probably like 15 minutes adding this toner put just the right amount of warmth back into the hair that we needed [Music] all right i have to show you guys this color was literally a perfect match for what she wanted i was panicking so much thinking that it was gonna be so cool and way too ashy and actually it turned out really perfect it's like the perfect beige tone it's like a level eight it matches exactly what she wanted in the picture and then she felt like it was too light and she wishes she could go back down to like a little three no i'm not doing that you guys didn't catch that i just wet her down and put some level five all over her head and let it sit for about 10 minutes so here's her before again and then we will get into her after okay here is her after um i'm definitely happy with the color still i was a little let down that after working so hard to get her to that perfect level eight that we were going for and after stressing out so much about it i was a little you know like oh i tried so hard to get that perfect color but you know she wasn't happy with it i told her if she needed to adjust it we could so i'm glad that she left happy and we just toned it down a little bit and it still has a really pretty nice lightness to it it's just not quite as light as we were striving for um you know it's fine but um i think adding that little bit of dimension made her more comfortable so i'm really glad about that so here is the total after and i think it's still such a really really pretty color [Music] okay so my client just left i just rang her out and i'm glad that we added that root shadow of the darker tone because she was definitely a lot happier with that um oh crap i have music playing in the background and if it's like if the thing catches on it'll like um copyright me hold on i'm just turning the music down for a minute okay um so i just rang her out and if i were to charge hourly because we technically sat down and talked about her hair at 10 30 it's 6 45 right now so i think it was over eight hours so my hourly rate would have been a little over eight hundred dollars for that whole service but i'm nice because i know a lot of people are like how can you charge that much so i went through and looked at everything like how much it would be per service like per whatever we did for the service so the way that her service breaks down is um so the toner because we had to do i basically did an all over color with the toner so that's 95. the root shadows 55 all the additional solution that we used because it was basically um 12 scoops of bleach total was 200 um her overall like bleaching out her hair was 220 and then the the other toner that we used after the all-over toner that we did was thirty dollars so all of that total comes out to be six hundred dollars so that's what i ended up charging her and in my mind when i was thinking like i don't know what this is going to come out to be but i feel like 600 is fair like i that's just what i felt like i deserved for the work i don't think i would have charged her i mean obviously i didn't but i felt like 800 was probably a little bit too high but i just feel like for the amount of work that we did how much bleach olaplex olaplex treatment how many different toners and all of that stuff that we had to do i feel like 600 is fair um i know she was really trying to keep her price at like 500 but the fact that we had to go back through and re add some color and it added on about an extra hour and a half to the service from doing that root shadow that's why i ended up um charging 600 for the service so anyways i hope you guys like the video um it definitely i wish that we would have left it what the initial color that we first did was but you know the client has to be happy so um anyways there's still people in the salon so i'm going to turn the volume back up and hope you like the video i'll see you next time bye

Channel: hair by Kristi Jennings

Views: 20,494

Rating: 4.878788 out of 5

Keywords: black hair to light brown, how to lighten dark hair, how to go from dark hair to light brown, lightening dark hair, how to lighten dark hair safely, how to bleach dark hair, light ash brown hair, light caramel brown hair color, dark hair to caramel, dark hair to ash brown, lightening dark hair to ash brown, dark hair to beige brown

Id: sSHqRdSb8Eg

Length: 59min 26sec (3566 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 19 2021