BABYLIGHTS TUTORIAL | Dark Brassy Hair To Ashy Blonde | FULL FOIL + Formulation

hey guys if you have a hard time getting good lift on very dark hair then keep watching because i'm going to show you how i take my level 2 to a level 10 in one sitting if you want you can follow me on instagram at christy at the cottage for this service i will be using many many bowls of schwarzkopf blond me with 20 volume and olaplex [Music] okay so the client that i'm working on right now um has very naturally dark hair she's probably like naturally a level two three and her hair is actually very very it's very coarse so i'm kind of worried that it might not lighten as well as i'm hoping it will um i'm gonna use my schwarzkopf um blond me with 20 volume and olaplex and normally that would do the trick but because her hair is so coarse i just don't know if it's gonna be stuck at like a level eight or whatever um she has probably about like six inches of grow out the last time we did her hair we did like a rose gold color so the ends have kind of faded and it's kind of like an orangier color right now um we're gonna chop her hair off quite a bit um to like her shoulders roughly um a little bit longer maybe and then um for her service she wants to do a full i'm going to do it pretty like heavy around her face see if we can get that nice and bright and then through the rest of her hair um she kind of decided that she wants to do like a backcomb foil because she wants to take it all the way up to the root but i told her that if we back comb it like do a weave and back comb it then as it grows out it'll be a little bit softer because the backcomb will kind of create a little bit more of a softer natural blend and a little bit of a cushion at the root versus if we just do like foiling all the way straight up to the scalp then as it grows out it's gonna be a lot heavier of a line of demarcation um but right now we're gonna go start her service and for dark hair because it is so dark um i'm gonna have to take like even more fine of a section than i normally would just because we need to make sure that has lots of saturation and like really thick bleach i feel like you almost have to saturate it twice as much as you would with like the normal hair like hair that's fine or maybe not as dark um so she knows that the surface is going to take a lot of bleach she's prepared for that i asked her if she has a price range that she wants to stay within and she said no more than 400 so that's our goal and because she's already expressed that to me then even if i do more work or uh whatever you know do a root shadow and if the price was gonna go over what she initially said then i'm still gonna keep it at that 400 just because she already told me that ahead of time um any extra work that i do on top of that is just for me to make sure that the color looks good um so probably as i get to like the nape of the neck or something like that i'm probably gonna do larger subsections just to keep a little bit of her natural dark and i mean her hair is thick like to grab her hair is like it's like that so yeah so right now we're going to mix uh schwarzkopf 20 volume with olaplex and go from there and if you follow me on instagram then you helped with some polls that i was asking about this video so here it is here's my client she is naturally a level two and her hair is very thick very coarse so lifting her hair is going to be very difficult because if she had fine hair that would make the lift much more easy but because her hair is not just extremely dark but very thick that's going to make the lift a lot harder so you have to be more precise with your sectioning so in this video i'm going to show you how i get my lift in my dark hair clients for her we have to take extremely thin sections to make sure that we have even saturation if you have too thick of sections and that's going to make it really hard to get good even lift so whereas i normally start in the front but because her hair is so thick i would sometimes start in the back so that way it sits longer and i can work my way to the front but because her hair is extremely dark and it is going to be hard to lift i am actually going to start my foils in the front and actually start at the top of the head versus in the back because we have so much lift that we have to go through that i want to make sure that this really has time to sit and process and to get as much lift as possible normally i do my hairline foils first so that's what we're going to start with and she wants to be very blonde like a very cool ashy blonde and i told her that we're just gonna have to see how much lift we're able to accomplish and go from there her color that she previously previously has on her head and i've done a video on it and i will link it below was a rose gold color so that's what that color is through the ends of her hair is like a faded rose gold so just to be cautious because i know the lift that we've already done on her hair previously um i want to make sure that we don't compromise her hair so i'm only going to go through her regrowth right now i'm not going to really go through her ends yet i just want to make sure that we get even lift and match the ends of her hair first before i start going through her ends so we're going to do her hairline foil this is just the same typical foil that i do in all of my videos we're just gonna do a really soft nice blended weave right on her hairline this is gonna make it so that her hair blends really nicely when she pulls her hair back that it frames her face we're not going to have any streaks or lines in the hair this is just going to brighten up really nicely and give her a really pretty soft blonde around her hairline [Music] i have people ask me about why do i start my foils around my hairline and the reason is because i want to make sure that this gets the best lift as possible now if somebody has very light hair naturally then i probably would still start in the front but if i feel like their hair is a really high risk factor for breakage then i might do their hairline foil once i get to like the top section of the head if i'm starting in the back but normally i do start in the front and do my foils around the hairline just because i want to make sure i have the pattern and the hair and everything and especially with dark hair i feel like if somebody wants to be blonde like the biggest part that they're wanting to see is right around their face to make sure it's nice and bright so because her hair is so dark that's why i'm starting in the front and i think it's okay to start in the front on any client just as long as you are paying attention to those foils i mean this front section is likely gonna be sitting for maybe three hours while i'm foiling her hair i mean that is a long time and yes bleach stops working at a certain point but i go through and check my foils like after probably the first 45 minutes and if i need to pull the foils at that point then i will but generally they're okay to sit and they're a little bit longer so if you're gonna start your foils at the front of the face it's okay but just make sure that you are checking on those foils and pulling them out early if you need to [Music] here you can see a little better how fine of sections i'm doing around the face i mean those weaves are just the teeniest little baby lights if you can see through to the foil through the section of the hair then that is perfect for dark hair to get good lift if you take too thick of a section then chances are the hair is not gonna lift past like a level eight or nine so just be sure that you're taking very thin sections um yes that does make the service take quite a while because it means that you're having to foil almost twice as much because you have to take such extremely thin sections but if your client has dark hair if they want it to be actually very very blonde or ashy that means that you have to lift almost to a level 10 like a clean 10 hardly any warmth in the hair at all because if you have too much too much warmth in the hair then when you put an ashy toner on it to what what you want to do is for it to like go gray or silver if they want a true ashy tone but if they have too much warmth in the hair then all that's going to do is neutralize the warmth and make it nice and bright so if you want an ashier tone then you have to lift to like a level 10 and tone down almost to like a level eight and a half nine to get a true ashy tone to deposit that color so make sure that you take very thin sections very small sectioning and do not have a lot of thickness in the hair that you're weaving if you can not see the foil through your section then go through and do a smaller weave a smaller slice whatever because you're going to end up with too much warmth and your clients not going to be happy whatever you tone the hair with it's not going to be bright enough so just make sure that with dark hair the thinner the section the thinner the slice the better and you will get the best lift that way [Music] i want to say that for this client we had a realistic conversation during the consultation and i told her that i don't know for how bright and cool she wants to be that it's realistic for the service just because her hair naturally is not just so dark but extremely coarse and thick like the hair strands are actually very coarse so that just makes it so hard for the lift usually so i told her especially since we've done a lot of bleaching through her ends before that i don't know how safely we can lift the hair without causing any damage to the ends and i just told her that we'll just have to see what we can do and she was open to the idea of doing a pretty good chop and cutting her hair that way we can hopefully get a little bit lighter without having any damage sometimes you just got to break it down to your clients look your hair cannot handle the amount of lift that you're wanting i recommend that we cut your hair because those ends i know are going to be damaged and they're not going to recover or they're going to break or they're going to melt or whatever you need to let your clients know and sometimes you have to tell your clients you can have long hair or you can have blonde hair sometimes we cannot have it both so you just have to break it down to them and let them know your hair cannot go past this point out what it is at this point moment without damage so if you are okay with the color that your ends are right now kind of being brassier or maybe doing like you know depositing a darker toner to be ashier but then you know you'd have to darken it up quite a bit if you're okay with that level where your hair is at then we can go ahead with the service however if you are actually wanting it to be very blonde very bright and ashy no warmth at all then i highly recommend cutting the hair because there's no way that we can safely lift your hair and if somebody is not willing to cut their hair 100 do not do the service if you feel inside of you that you cannot do this safely without um damaging their hair because a lot of people feel like oh i've been blonde before or oh i've done this service before like i i know my hair like i've been able to be blonde before i know that it's fine let's just do it if you know inside your heart that you're not gonna be able to do the service without compromising their hair do not do the service or i've had to do this multiple times do a strand test and show them and let it sit there and let the clients know i would prefer if we can do a strand test before we go through with the service that way i can know exactly what are the ends of your hair going to do if you feel like their hair is going to snap cut off just a little sliver piece kind of underneath in the back or wherever so that it's not going to be you know a large piece of hair that they're going to notice just kind of do a little sliver of a suction in the back mix the lightener however you would put it on the hair put them under some heat just to get it processing because you're only going to let it sit for about 20 minutes blast it with some heat put it in the dryer for like 20 minutes or whatever because i feel like letting it sit in the dryer or hitting it with some heat equals the same amount of time as if an hour were to go by so show them this is what your hair is doing after 20 minutes now magnify that by the temperature being hotter from the heat from your head and sitting for like an hour so if your hair is already damaged after 20 minutes of just being in a foil imagine the damage that's going to be on your head from processing for an hour in foils like all over your head are you willing for your hair to be that frazzled or melt because you want it to be blonde sometimes you have to do that for clients for them to physically see like pull the hair do the strand test in front of them so that they can see oh yeah okay yeah my hair is not going to do what i thought it was going to do or whatever um just you are the professional do not let your clients run the service yes they are paying for it but you have to let them know that you are being realistic for what their goals are and if you can achieve them or not and if they're not happy with that then let them go that is totally fine i 100 percent at this point in my career would be honest would be honest with somebody and tell them that i am not willing to risk my name and damage your hair because you want it blonde i think i'll probably be very cautious going through the ends just because i can already see like or maybe before it kind of was a little bit frazzled so i'll just be extra cautious going through this area i mean if we trim your hair and um i mean i know we're going to take it up a little bit more but if we add more layering too like that might help us be able to lighten up the ends a little bit more in case it does need to be trimmed so just yeah we'll just see how light we can get it and how light we can take these ends okay now that i have her whole hairline processing and around the nape of the neck i just want to make sure that that has even brightness so like i was saying at the beginning of the video that normally for a full foil i would start in the back section and work my way to the top after i get the hairline foil in but because she has such extremely dark hair and we have so much lift that we have to accomplish i want to start at the front and at the top of her head right where she parts her hair because i want to make sure that this gets as much lift as possible i want to get the give this the opportunity to sit for as long as it needs to i don't want to start at the back and then get to the top and only let this sit for like you know an hour and then the back has the chance to sit for like two or three hours you have to keep in mind that when you're lifting extremely dark hair or when you're doing a foil anyways the back and underneath part of the hair i feel like that's where the most of the heat is because all the foils lay on top of it all of the hair falls down over the top of those back foils so on top of it sitting the longest it also gets the most heat so yes that's gonna get a lot of lift anyways but i feel like because she has such lift that we have to do i know that that back area is gonna lift pretty good and pretty fast because of the heat and the top section is not going to lift as much because it doesn't have as much heat as the back section so that's why i'm starting at the very top because i want to make sure that this has as long as it needs to sit and has the longest opportunity to lift i'm using 20 volume because if you use 40 volume and i know i've talked about this before in my other videos 40 volume 30 volume they have a really big punch of power when you first apply the bleach but i feel that big burst of power only lasts for like 20 minutes and then it dies off so say you are foiling the top here for like 30 minutes you still have some bleach that you're trying to use that's that's already died off and so now it's not gonna get as great of lift as if you just would have used like 20 volume because low and slow is the way to go if you have a lower volume developer which is why i always use 20 on 100 of my clients i would rarely use 30 volume unless i just need to blast that last little bit of warmth out at towards the end of the processing but if i use 20 volume and i have nice saturation then i know that this is going to lift slowly and it's going to lift evenly and i'm going to have good lift because of that i have always had amazing lift with my short scarf blondie i've always been able to get great blonde this has nine levels of lift so i know that it's gonna get the job done as long as i make sure that i'm doing what i need to do so pay attention when i am foiling her hair look at the mass amount of bleach that i'm using to make sure that she has amazing saturation there's so many times where i see people just like slap the bleach on and like feather out the roots to make sure that they're you know getting the roots and everything but you can see straight through to the hair and it hardly looks like there's not that much bleach on there so i make sure that when i am bleaching the hair that it is an ex like obviously not like an extreme amount but make sure that you excuse me make sure that you are putting a very thick layer of bleach on the hair don't be afraid if you have to refill your bowl like five or six times do it and make sure you're charging for it but make sure that you put a thick amount of bleach on there so that way you get good lift if you don't have enough bleach on there even if your section is thin you're not gonna get as good as lift as you could if you have enough bleach because that bleach is gonna die out it's gonna dry out if it's not thick enough so that's another reason why you need to make sure that you have enough bleach and enough product in your sections that you're doing so for her pattern that i'm doing because she wants to be really blended but nice and bright and still have a little bit of lower maintenance i'm going through and i'm weaving her hair i'm going to kind of alternate between weaves and slices and a very fine subsection in between and i'm going to backcomb every section and this is gonna make it so that she has that little cushion of her natural hair just a soft little root shadow but it's gonna blend really nicely and get really bright just right off of the root and this is going to make it so that way as her hair grows up because it is so dark she's not going to have that heavy line of demarcation it's just going to be a little bit softer so um we're going to back comb and do very fine slices and weaves with minimal subsection however as i make my way down around the corner of her head i'm gonna start doing larger subsections and then honestly that's because her hair is just so extremely thick that this foil is already taking me a long time to do i think just to get the foils in and everything i want to say i want to say maybe took me like four hours so if i was doing like the very fine baby lights just all the way around her head like we would be here literally for 10 hours so once i have the top part the majority of it done and i know that i have a heavy amount of brightness in there i'm gonna start doing a little bit larger of subsections as i make my way around the sides of her head that way um you know we just don't we're just not here all day so um i'm also going to just do a few foils down the side of the head and make sure that's processing and then i'm going to flip over to the other side and start down that side of the part and i'm going to refill my bleach because i want to make sure that this has the same opportunity to have great lift as the other side of the head so whereas i started this section i refilled my bleach up and now when i go to the other side of the head because i want to make sure that this has fresh bleach too and it has great lift i'm also going to get a fresh bowl of bleach for that section also [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] we're just going to finish up this foil right here and then we're going to make our way over to the other side and start foiling on that side because i want to make sure that that one also gets great even lift i don't want to foil this whole side of the head and then this gets like white and then has to be pulled out then the other side hasn't lifted very much yet so that's why we're just gonna throw this section in look i mean that's already lifting and matching the ends of the hair so we're just gonna go back through reapply if we need to just to make sure that the bleach doesn't dry out and then now we're going to flip over and start on the other side of the head [Music] and i'm going to start this section by matching the other side with just a really fine weave and back comb it and i feel like when i'm right on somebody's part like directly probably within an inch and a half section of right where their part lays i feel like i try to pack the foils in a little bit heavier with even minimal subsections than the rest of the hair because i want to make sure that if they part their hair right there i want to make sure that whole like inch inch and a half section right there if their part falls you know just a little off to the side or to one side or the other like yes people have a specific you know area where they part their hair but maybe it doesn't fall in the exact same place every time so i feel like if you take that inch inch and a half section of where the part generally falls and make sure you pack the foils in really heavy just not one area no matter where they part their hair and that general section they're gonna have even lift on both sides a few mistakes that i've made in the past is say you start on somebody's part and then you do a like do a weave and then you do like a subsection and then do your weave subsection whatever if they part their hair where you did your subsection then one side of the part could have the foil where the blonde was and then the other side of the part could be where the subsection was so you might have a blonde side of the part and a dark side of the part so that's why when i'm foiling off of somebody's part i usually pack my foils and they're a little bit heavier just to make sure that no matter where their part falls it's gonna have a lot of blonde on either side [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] uh by the way i would just like to take this moment to go off on a rant that has absolutely nothing to do with this what i'm doing right now techniques or you know no valuable advice that i could give you however um this is probably when i would cut off the video and edit out a majority of the foiling that i'm doing but if you follow me on instagram first of all thank you and if you don't follow me on instagram what the heck but i do a lot of my polls there and like for this video i actually did this service probably over a month ago and i just sat on the video for like the longest time because i wasn't even going to upload this because you'll see at the end but um because we lost daylight and had to use a ring light it reflects a lot of warmth and it made the hair kind of look brassy and i was just so unhappy with the after footage the hair itself looked beautiful but like in footage it just didn't come across and so i was like this is what's the point of uploading it if it doesn't even look good so um i went on my instagram and i asked you guys like do you want to see the service and i posted a picture of the before and after and um let's see what are the results i'm gonna look right now the results are 92 percent of you guys said that yes you do want to see the video and eight percent said no so screw you eight percent just kidding but not really um so another thing that i asked was because i get a lot of people saying like oh i love watching the longer videos and i could i love watching foiling and whatever um so i used to crop a lot of the repetitive stuff out but a lot of people are saying like you guys really love watching the longer videos and you love watching all the foiling and whatever so another thing that i asked was um do you want me to crop out a lot of the foiling or leave-in foiling and i'm looking right now and the response was share results um 68 of you guys said to leave in all the foiling and 32 said to crop it out which hey i don't blame you 32 okay because the last video that i uploaded was literally over an hour long and i wouldn't be shocked if this one was just as long and i that is like so long for me but like some of you guys are like oh my god i love the longer videos but like at what point is it too long like is 30 minutes good is 45 minutes good like as an hour like you're going crazy with those long videos now you know that is way too damn long so let me know what you guys think because i mean i'll let the footage play and then i feel like it's silent so i feel like i have to cover it up and like talk about some something and then i just feel like dumbass because i just feel like i'm repeating myself or you know going off right now on who even knows what the hell i'm talking about but like you know what i mean like just tell me like what is a good length of a video for you i understand now that y'all like the longer videos whereas before i would like literally do it at 10 minutes or like 15 minutes was a long video but now i see that you guys like the longer videos so i'm keeping them more like 30 you know minutes 40 minutes or whatever but there have been a few where i don't edit the foiling out and it ends up being like almost an hour long or over an hour long and so let me know like what is too long for you guys like could you just sit here and watch a video foil for like the whole six hour service like let me know because that's just that's just mind-blowing to me and i hey you know what though i appreciate y'all for that because that really like bless your heart that you will sit there and watch me foil the same damn thing over and over and over and over and you don't get tired of it okay so i appreciate you [Music] [Music] so okay now that we've kind of matched our sides and we're at the same point i'm going to again refresh in my bleach and we're going to start at the top and make sure that this has a while to sit so that way it can lift really nicely and that's why we're refreshing our bleach up to make sure that it has great lifting power it's not going to die out this isn't gonna be like the tail end of the bleach and then it's like only gonna lift to a level seven or whatever so start with a fresh bowl of bleach make sure that you have good lift and we're just gonna start at the top and work our way down and we're still not going to do too large of subsections right yet we're still just going to try to blend with the top and then once we get a few foils in then we'll probably start doing more subsections in between but we just still want to make sure that we get really good lift so we're still taking really thin sections not too thick of slices or weaves and back combing to make sure that we have that little bit of cushion and a little bit of a shadow at the root and we're just going to continue foiling down the back section to make sure that we have the same consistency with the sides of the head [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] now that the sides and back all kind of meet at the same place on the head i'm going to pull up all sections of the foils that have already done and pin her hair up and then because we also have those foils that we did like around the hairline and that meets kind of like right at the ear this is gonna make it so that way when i start my sections in the back now all i'm gonna have to do is basically like two panels of foils and um that probably should meet in the center and we're just going to do a few foils down on the sides and then we're going to flip over to the other side and follow the same thing and get this stuff going again we re freshened our bleach for the side sections that is like the biggest key when you're lifting extremely dark hair is that you want to make sure that you keep your bleach fresh and that you're using a lower volume to make sure that you can get good even lift throughout your whole section and i mean i've seen people like mix massive amounts of bleach because they're like oh i have so much hair haired foil so i'm just going to mix a huge bowl of bleach but if you do that for the whole head imagine that i've been foiling probably for like two hours three hours i don't even know and the whole bleach is sitting there for that long if you mix one bleach for the whole head that bleach is completely dead right now it's gonna have hardly any lift she's gonna be stuck at like a level six so make sure that you're not lift to just do your one scoop of bleach and then keep refilling if you need to don't over mix your bleach don't mix so much that it's gonna die out and then you're not going to get good lift so honestly the secret to good lift when it's really dark hair is extremely thin sections heavy saturation and consistent remixing your bleach to make sure it doesn't die out and low developer so if you can do all of that stuff then you should have great success with lifting dark hair to a nice bright blonde in one sitting as long as you're having very thin sections and let your clients know these are very expensive services they take a very long time because of how fun of sections you have to take so just make sure you're charging your worth explain it to the client ahead of time how much these services cost and be realistic or ask them do you have a price point you want to stay within maybe we don't do a full head and maybe we just do the top part of the head and maybe a little bit of foils around the hairline that way they feel nice and bright but just have you know the dark underneath still but clients need to know that these services cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars foiling is no longer 120 anymore there's no way that those types of foils exist anymore unless you're just really doing a basic highlight with subsection whatever that's fine but that's just not what hair is anymore there's like back combing and you want a blended root and you want brighter through the ends and everything so that's why colors are so much more expensive than what they used to be so um just make sure you're charging your worth and anyways back to the service so now that we've put in a few foils on the sides kind of like right behind the ears and we've put a few foils down um those meet in the center and because we've also got those foils around the hairline around the nape of the neck that makes it so that this bottom section that i'm doing right here is wide enough to be able to fit one panel of foils in between so we're just gonna go through finish this rest of the nape of the neck and then um usually when i'm done foiling like this i like to blast it with some heat just go through the the bottom i know that it's going to have a lot of heat anyways but i just want to hit it with some heat to help it catch up and start processing a little bit faster so we're going to hit it with the blow dryer kind of go all the way around the top of the head kind of lift up the foils get in between there to make sure those are still processing nicely and then let it sit for about like probably for her let it sit for like 30 minutes before i go through and check the rest of the hair to see how it's going just because i know it has so much lift to go that it does still need to sit for quite a while [Music] all right let's pull these foils down and see where we're at don't ever just walk away and assume how the lift is going before i let my client process i always go back through and just check the top foil and see if i need to reapply before i let it process for that 30 minutes that's gonna make sure like what happens if it kind of dries out or it's not you know after a while the saturation kind of dies out you gotta reapply like what happens if it dies out and then you walk away before you check it and that 30 minutes you could have gotten better lift if you would have just reapplied it and checked it so just check your foils does it need to reapply or not then you can go chill for a little bit and let it process but we reapplied where we needed to and now we're gonna go through because we know that her foils are done around her face and we're going to check these foils pull them out and let the rest process [Music] so she's sitting with 20 volume and then probably after she processes for a while we'll check her hair and eventually probably run like 30 through it just to try and boost it past that level eight and see if we can get it a little bit lighter um i'm not gonna run bleach through the ends right now just because we have lightened it [Music] already okay so i went through her hair and checked all of her foils and i let her process for probably like 20 minutes or so and i ran some 30 volume through her hair not everywhere just some areas where i felt like it needed that extra push to lift past that warmth i know that like we're running out of daytime and i'm trying to rush to get like good pictures and everything like i know i have a like an hour or two before we get to that point but i just don't want to like lose the opportunity to take good pictures not not that it worked out i didn't get good pictures or video but i did go through just that last little bit and ran some 30 volume not through her ends but just through her root area just to blast it past that warmth and then i let that process and then i went through and as i'm doing right now just these last like probably maybe like 20 minutes that her hair is gonna sit i'm gonna go through all of her hair go through every single foil run some of the bleach through the ends try to get it past that brassiness to brighten it up just a little bit and then we're going to go through all of her subsections get her hair where it's super brassy and paint through those ends just to brighten those up too and once we run extremely weak bleach through her ends because remember we don't really need a whole bunch of lift right now we just need to get her past this level probably like a eight nine or so she doesn't have a whole bunch of lift just a little bit to brighten her up so we're not doing like a like really strong bleach just enough to brighten her up a little bit so this is just going to sit for probably like 20 minutes and then we will be able to wash her out [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] here you go you can see all of those ends that we got how much brighter they are now and you can see that schwarzkopf really gets a nice clean lift for how dark her hair is you can see that just taking really thin small sections really gets the job done so yeah that's why i'm so happy with this bleach okay so i'm getting ready to tone my client we just got done running the 30 volume through her ends to try to break through any of that brassiness and that um kind of yellowy tone that was in her hair where we did the subsections so right now she's pre-toning at the sink with vanilla no yellow shampoo and i'll let that sit on for about five minutes or so um i'm trying to figure out what to tone her with sometimes i like using the schwarzkopf agora vibrance because i feel like it really cancels out like the brassiness but um i i feel like i just haven't figured out like the right color for the toner that i want yet for like a super light blonde um i really love it for root shadows and that's what i'm gonna use in a minute but i think for her i think for her color because we got it pretty light i think i'm gonna do like paul mitchell the demi um some of my favorite toners to use for like a nice cool blonde is like 10 v and 10 pa um with just like a teeny little drop of rose gold um i feel like that really helps cool the hair down but it doesn't make it towards like ashy or like violety it kind of is like a really pearly icy color so that's what i'm going to use a little favorite right here and so yeah 10 v 10 pa and then i think i'm also sometimes i like to add a little bit of a level 9 in there so maybe like 9v or 9pa um that way for the areas where it's maybe still a little bit warm or maybe not as bright i feel like adding that level 9 in there really helps like um tone it down and but not like darken up though like it still has a really nice light color to it the nine doesn't darken it down at all so i think i'm gonna add that level nine to it and we'll do that for her toner and then we'll comb her hair i'm pretty sure i'm going to go through with like a root shadow color but the reason why i like toning the hair first is because um if you tone for the lightest color first then you can see what areas of brassiness are left over so when you do the root shadow then you can just pull the root shadow through those areas where it's kind of brassy and kind of blend it in and eliminate those brassy tones and cool it down so that's why i'm gonna do my toner first so we're gonna mix for that and then um we'll go apply that and probably let it sit for like five ten minutes or so okay so here's what i'm toning with and i'm going to measure this out so you can watch if you're wondering exactly what the formulation is [Music] i want to say something really quickly i know i said before that i was using a weaker bleach on her ends to brighten them up and then when i was explaining that um at the beginning of that little section where i was talking i said i used 30 volume i was using 30 volume however it's from when i applied through the roots of her hair to try and um brighten it up really quickly so it had been sitting for quite a while before i ran it through the ends so it was weaker than a fresh 30 volume bleach okay and so here is her hair with the vanilla no yellow shampoo just pre-toning her a little bit to try and get out as much as that warmth as possible and here's the toner and we're gonna let that finish sitting for probably like seven minutes or so [Music] okay so i'm gonna go through and do like a root shadow right now um i think i'm gonna go through with igor vibrance the short scoff um i really like how that cools the hair down it's a little bit more pigmented it's not as translucent um as the demi from paul mitchell which i think is good if somebody wants like a really soft root shot okay but we're really trying to minimize some brassiness so i think i'm going to go through with a11 and a smidge of 9546 just like kind of a beige color and then also nine one and that will be kind of like a it's really not going to be that much darker than i mean she's pretty blonde but we're just going to soften it a little bit but we don't want to darken her hair too much so it's just going to be like a teeny little bit um to cool her roots down and help just help it blend a little bit better and then also while she's sitting i have that new olaplex treatment the number zero and that's sitting on her ends um just to help re-strengthen her her ends and her hair after the blotting process which i normally do with all of my surfaces so while that's sitting on her hair um we're going to apply her root shadow this is what i'm using for her root shadow with the six volume and this is how much i'm mixing it so that way if you want to see you can write all this down if you want for the formulation and i kind of want to say something actually so she wanted to be cool but like a bright blonde like a cooler bright blonde but not necessarily like super ashy and i kind of want to explain the end process like how her overall finished product looks so because we went through with the schwarzkopf blonde me her roots look very icy very cool very bright white and that's because the schwarzkopf really like cools the hair down and it cancels out brassiness amazingly i love it um the paul mitchell she wants to be nice and bright but not necessarily super ashy like through the ends so i thought if we did like kind of toned her roots down to be a little bit darker and cooler but then left her ends out to be a little bit brighter like that would be really pretty to kind of have a soft ombre where she's more solid and brighter through the ends however what's wrong with this is because we don't have the natural light and we're using a ring light um she still has like it's not a lot of ashiness through the ends so it kind of reflects the yellow lighting so you'll just see um when i take her after picture and the video that her roots look nice and bright and cool and icy and it's because we put like a darker ashier color on her roots and then her ends look a little bit warmer and it's because we toned those to be more just bright and not necessarily cool down so i feel like it reflects more of the warmth because we didn't add a lot of ashiness to that part um so i feel like because her ends are more just more like of a brighter blonde than a cooler blonde it reflects more of the warmth than her root area so i'm super bummed about it um that's why i didn't do this video for the longest time because like it literally pissed me off how like i just couldn't get a very good after picture or video but um you'll see at the end of the video anyways so we're gonna go through and do her root shadow and you can see some of these areas in the very back i'm gonna bring the root shadow down a little bit further or swipe through some of the areas where it does look like the brassiness is a little bit stronger still so um we're gonna put this on and let it sit for probably like probably like maybe 15 minutes or so and you know what i probably should have done looking back at this is i probably should have just let this sit everywhere on her roots for like the initial um processing time but the last five minutes of this sitting i probably should have ran this all the way through the ends of her hair just to deposit more of that cooler tone to cancel out any warmth that there might be not that looking at her hair there wasn't any warmth in her hair to look at it like from my perspective from your perspective in the video it does look a little bit warmer um so i probably should have just pulled it through the ends anyways just because her hair is naturally so dark that that warmth is going to start showing through pretty quickly anyways so kind of to make sure that her hair stays nice and cool sometimes i like to go through with an ashier toner and then it will soften up and just be nice and bright over time um so anyways that's just a learning experience but i wish i would have definitely gone through just to reinforce that cooler tone so um but you'll see at the end but um because you can see right now after toning her hair that she doesn't really have a lot of warmth in it it's probably the warmth that you're seeing is from when i back combed her hair and that warmth that i pushed up and now is combed back down is just kind of like at that one little demarcation line section but the ends of her hair actually got really nice and bright so um yeah i i wish i would have gone through with that other toner but so yeah we're just going to finish up applying the root shadow but you can see how nice and bright her roots got i mean that is like a clean 10 lift right there so yep gonna sit for 10 minutes or so and then rinse her out [Music] oh my gosh you guys look at how freaking yellow her hair is okay this makes me so mad and so irritated like you could see when i was applying her toner that her ends were not that yellow but it's just because of the stupid lighting it makes me so mad but anyways look at her roots look how nice and pretty they are how blended it is and depending on how the light hits her hair you can see that that yellow kind of fades in and out um it just is so frustrating i just really it just makes me so mad and you can see actually the other side of her head where the light's not hitting directly on it that the other side of her head looks a lot cooler because it's not reflecting that yellow light but um anyways her roots blended really nicely she got nice and cool up there i wish we would have just toned her down cool all over but here's her before again and her after and i will say that i did edit this picture to reflect more of how it looks naturally so it is a little bit more cooled down okay so i just got done doing my client i'm almost don't want to tell you how long it took me to do the service okay because there's been a few people that have been like there is no reason why it should take her like five or six hours to do a service um so she got here at one it is 806 in the evening i just want to tell you guys that i'm a really slow foiler okay i know this about myself second of all her hair i'm not kidding you her hair was like that thick like if you try to pull it all back in a ponytail that's how thick it is it's extremely thick extremely coarse so for me to apply the bleach took probably [Music] i want to say by the time we washed her out it was like five o'clock yeah it was five o'clock because i remember when i was toning her i was thinking like oh it's not dark yet maybe i'll get a good picture uh that didn't happen annoying so um at like five o'clock i washed her out we did an olaplex treatment which guys that like saves the hair so much um and then yeah so her whole service took all day um she told me that her like her top out for price would be like 400 so that's what i charged her was 400. um i i think like the reason why it took like a whole extra hour longer i mean not like that's a big difference or anything um so like right in here where i was pulling foils um i've said it before that schwarzkopf kind of bleeds and so or like it swells so just not one area right there kind of like swelled out of the packets and um it like lifted her root area so she was kind of warm right there so i had to go through i used paul mitchell like just the 3n just like tapping on her roots thinking that it would like cool it down it didn't well actually when i did the first toner the root shadow i thought that would cool it down it like didn't even touch it so then i went through with like um a level 3n from paul mitchell and that didn't do anything either so then i had to like wash her hair out again and then like dry it a little bit just in that area i put the three i n on her hair dry hoping that would do it and i let it sit for about 15 minutes it literally didn't tone down so then i had to go back into like the schwarzkopf um agora vibrance and i made like a i just made a toner really quickly of the six one two and put that on her roots and that helped that cooled it down that made it a lot better so that whole last hour was kind of me trying to fix that little up so um but i acknowledged it and i told her i said your roots are kind of warm right here i'd rather tone them down really quickly just it's not a big deal just put a little toner on it really fast and um just soften it and you won't even notice or anything and she's like i don't think i see it and i don't notice that i'm like i see it and it bothers me so i don't want you to go home and notice it or something and then whatever so i just wanted to fix it um so we fixed that and her hair turned out fine i am so annoyed like so we did all of this service and one thing that pisses me off more than anything is like when i do such a pretty color it like for her hair to be so dark and how light and blonde and ashy we got it like um and further not to me any natural light outside to be able to take like an after picture and like a video i was so pissed i had to go back to the stupid ring light and like act like i was taking good pictures even though they weren't turning out really good but like i wanted to at least try to show the after color like i tried to get up in the roots and everything but um the pictures just didn't turn out good i hate using a ring light it made the ends look really yellow when they were suit they were they weren't cool like her roots were really cool but the ends of her hair were just nice and bright and more like of a they weren't super ashy like her roots but they were kind of like a cool blonde so with the ring light it just kind of reflected really yellow um which pisses me off because i worked so hard to try to like lift through that brassiness that she came in with so anyways you guys sorry if the after picture video sucks okay i know it it looked a lot better in person it looked a lot better you know and the natural lighting stupid ring light makes me so mad like what is the point of doing amazing hair if you can't get a good after picture or video like who like what is the point anyways i'm gonna stop it's like 8 15 and my boyfriend was telling me that he had gotten the stupid like um taco bell nacho tray thing okay do you know how good that sounds but it is after eight o'clock so i can't eat anything so i told him you better hurry up and you know that by the time i get home because my fat ass isn't gonna be able to contain myself so anyways i'll see you guys for the next video uh thank you guys so much for watching don't forget to like and subscribe and if you have any questions or whatever then leave it in the comment section below and i will try to get back to you all right thank you again bye you

Channel: hair by Kristi Jennings

Views: 61,458

Rating: 4.8291926 out of 5

Keywords: How to lighten dark hair, How to tone brassy hair, Dark hair to blonde, Dark to blonde hair, Dark brassy hair, Toning dark brassy hair, How to fix dark brassy hair, Dark brassy hair to light blonde, Babylights Tutorial, How to do babylights, Full foil technique on dark hair, Full foil technique, Babylights on dark hair, Babylights on brown hair, Babylights technique

Id: 07mlQguRcj8

Length: 71min 44sec (4304 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 02 2020