Turbo Install Guide || Honda Acura B18 B20 D16 D15 Etc

what's going on YouTube we're back with another video and today I'm actually not working on that Integra or my CRV we are working on a friend of mine [Music] stocke LS I do about 10 pounds you make it make like 250 it should be a pretty good process with this specific term okay it's not AC friendly so we've already drained the refrigerant out of the AC system you can have a local mechanic do it or using a few machines you can do it at home if you have access to it I believe that you're able to retain the factory power steering system with this turbo kit so we're going to make sure that that's true when we bolt everything up in which case if we're not able to retain it then we'll be deleting that as well but we're hoping to keep that and we're gonna start the process off by jacking the car up so you have a little bit more room to work underneath as well as on top and remove the front bumper it's pretty simple to remove these front bumpers normally there are Clips right here and this one has the factory ones so you're just gonna turn your wheel sideways and there's a little Phillips head right there and then they'll be sometimes out right all over here you have the bolts that you need to take off and then corner Volks right there as well in the front face should be able to come right off as long as it doesn't have the splash guard underneath most cars do not of this year of this era I guess you could say a lot of them come off over time but if it does it should just be Phillips heads or ten millimeter bolts at the bottom as well okay now that we've removed the front bumper and all the corresponding bolts for it see it up lay them all aside we can start the teardown of the engine components starting with the hoses for the AC then we're gonna take the heat shield off and unbolt the exhaust manifold the most thing you're gonna need right now is like ten millimeter bolts and twelve millimeter socket setting and then for the AC compressor I believe it's a couple of fourteen so I think this up my phone down real quick and just start bolting something to note the stock radiator shroud is kind of sharp so careful not to cut yourself now that we have the heat shield exposed we're gonna repair some have bolt some have studs on in this case these are all studs with nuts what I like about these are they are the locking ones so make sure to keep those and we'll be able to use them again now that we have all the nuts taking up up top take it off up top excuse me we're gonna come underneath and here is where the exhaust runs there are two bolts one right here and one right here that you're gonna be taking off as well and there is a little support bracket off of the block to the exhaust we're gonna be removing those bolts as well and then drop this whole unit altogether that way we are able to free up the exhaust system from the engine itself how to remove another thing to note is that there is an o2 sensor there just one simple clip that comes off of the wiring harness and that comes down moving over to this portion here is the AC compressor itself as you can see now that the exhaust manifold is taken off there's 12 millimeter bolts right here into four corner another right there and two on the bottom and the same corresponding place that hold the compressor onto the bracket itself so we are going to take off the belt which is as simple as loosening the tensioner bolt right here and then the tensioner bolt it's a 12 if not if I'm not mistaken at 1200 or 14 and the belt comes right off and we can take the compressor off as well as the bracket that looks like it's being held on by fourteen millimeter bolts so we have the AC compressor taken off but I'm leaving the bracket on up to the discretion of the owner depending on what you want to do because that also has a torque mount that's attached to this side over here it helps with the Flex of the engine next thing we're doing is removing this AC Coast eventually we'll remove the whole AC system to have a cleaner finish all right now we're just taking off what's essential taking off this big nut right here that connects the hoses as well as a bolt that connects this at the bottom and this is coming off that way we can put the manifold on and test fit a few things before we do the final insulin now that the manifold is in place not bolted down or anything obviously we can verify that it will keep power-steering no problem here's the wastegate placement that we're gonna have if we decide to go this route it's gonna be up to the fabricator since I don't well unfortunately not yet he wants to do up pipes on the whole car so this is kind of a tight Bend and that would be up to the fabricators discretion another way that would be a lot easier or just to be placing it that way and have it go straight down the dump for the wastegate I know that that's already test fitted we're going to take this off and start removing a little bit more of the AC components I believe I'm gonna take off the condenser now free up a little bit of space in the front for the intercooler and start mocking those things up we are removing the condenser setting this off to the side reason being that we don't just leave it in there and skip that step like some people do is because now one it's gonna be useless and two it's gonna block air flow that could be better used easy way to remove the condenser is just remove the two lines get held by ten million meter bolt in the front that one and this one as well then remove the brackets for the radiator push the radiator forward and pull it out from the top now what we're gonna continue to do is start to remove these unnecessary lines from the side all the other parts that we don't need like this stuff right here we're just gonna go ahead and remove and make a cleaner engine bay as well so far since the last clip I was able to remove a stock airbox that baffles everything right here and then feeds into the stock intake manifold that way we've cleared up a lot of space right here it's a big ol useless thing right there we can run our piping correctly now I remove the battery and I'm taking out a trade that's held by 12 millimeter bolts that way we can finish removing these lines we're not gonna go as far as removing the dash we were moving the things inside underneath the dash but if you want there's a few other videos online that show you how to do this exactly so we just got over to our local parts store autozone mean I'm gonna pick up some high-temperature hose for these fittings for the oil return now normally I recommend a n fittings which if you're not aware of that it's basically a thread on fitting that seals with the flare instead of this method although this method is fine for regular cars as well this instead of being welded on to the oil pan is drilled through the oil pan and then using crush washers it seals and then this would be the bottom on your oil pan in return this off of the turbo so now we're just gonna pick up some high temp hose to go along with this ended up going to Napa to get the hose said that this is a hydraulic high-temperature should work perfectly for this normally the one that I order a lot of time at a time there's only one online that's specifically for it now that we're back we have the hose clamp on as well as the gasket for the return something to take note since this is a bottom mount turbo manifold which means that the manifold is on top and the turbo itself is on the bottom we're gonna have to switch the way that this is sitting right now I think of the manifold sitting right here and this is the return the one with the big square the feed is the one that's looks like a threads on because there's a few different ways to put the feed on but what we have to do is loosen these I believe they're 13 millimeter bolts take them all out or at least loosen them so the turbo can spin and we're gonna clock it the opposite way with this facing down all right now we have the turbo attached for the manifold as well as the wastegate I also have the oil lines placed onto the turbo that not completely tight yet but they have the corresponding gaskets that way we can make sure that everything is caught correctly clocked correctly once we put it on the car which I'm gonna go ahead and mount right now okay half it briefly mounted up right there as you can see there's no nuts onto the studs yet I just want to make sure everything is how it should before we do final install I have the line for the feed going towards the back of the engine and then later I'll show you exactly where we're connecting this to I personally prefer to use the sandwich plate method which what it does it's basically a spacer behind the oil filter and then it runs the feed off of there unfortunately he was not supplied in this kit so what it does have and I believe is what we're going to use is this little T looking thing although there's four ports and it comes with one little block off which will tap into the the stock oil pressure sending unit and be able to supply a little pressure from there that's pretty much it for that if you look we have the oil returned with more than enough lines they just sold me all this in one increment this we are going to cut and put it to the correct location on the oil pan right now I can't really get a good angle but the oil pan is coming off that way we can drill the oil pan and put the fitting on and if you guys aren't familiar how to remove your oil pan I do have another video that I'll try to link in the description on my channel on how to remove and replace oil pan with its corresponding gasket and in this case I'll just show you where exactly we're drilling it to add on to that video over here we have the cold side of the turbo clock this way it's not very easy to fit a filter right there but you can do extra piping right here like a coupler to go around it and then have your filter sit somewhere over here or have it run over to this side like the stock filter location totally up to you the down pipe or a pipe depending on how he wants to have a fabricator do it which looks like a down pipe would probably be your best option on this would be fabricated down over there where the stock AC compressor normally sits off of the design of this manifold one of the runners this one right here hits the manifolds or the this stud that comes off the manifold so we are removing this stub right now just pretty easy to do you just lock two nuts onto the stud itself that way you can unthreat it from the head and it's kind of hard with one hand right now but instead of using a stud on there we're gonna try to fit a bolt and if by any means it does not fit it's not such a big deal to have one out of I think the nine or ten that's they're missing because you have the clamping force all around it and it's normally what happens with these cheap manifolds you don't really see that when you have the more expensive high-quality ones but on these ebay kids sometimes little stuff like that doesn't always function how it should and you have to do these types of modifications alright now we have the oil pan itself drilled out I've already washed it cleaned it and it's ready to go back with no debris or anything so I'm gonna put one washer onto this piece right here and that goes right over top and on the back put the other washer and then not right behind it now I've tighten both sides with some adjustable wrenches and let's see how this holds up I mean it's what's what supplied with the kit so hopefully it does its job so now we're just gonna wait for the bottom right here to dry up and we can reinstall the pant like I mentioned earlier there's another video that I have on how to change the pan and gas key and in the pan itself alright just a little update clip I think the last one that I recorded was of drilling and putting the drink the drain onto the pan so that's all in there with the new gasket as well with everything sealing with the RTV in the four corners where it should be and I started putting the intercooler piping on as you can see on this side it's perfect as it should be that kid on that portion of it seems to be ok that downpipe I was able to find the pipe laying around before we take it to the fabricator so we can only start it and drive it over back to the customer's house then for the mount on the intercooler there has well it has these little I'm not sure what they're called spacers or something welded onto the intercooler itself so I was able to drill out this this stock crash bar and put a couple bolts along with lock washers in there so it's holding it nice and firm that's not going anywhere but the problem that I'm running into right now is that among other things this kit was somewhat of a universal just happens come with a B series turbo manifold so the piping itself does not fit exactly how we need it there's like 4 X 4 or 3 extra pipes and then one pipe that doesn't flow how it should for the blow-off valve placement this Bend is wrong as well as this if you look at my car I think that's not the piping in there waiting on training upgrades right now but if you look at my my car the pipe beam comes down and it has another bend at the bottom bla file sits right there some of them sit over there but it's a lot more of a nighty and then 90 downwards to fit the OEM piping style so you don't have to cut and fabricate so I think I'm gonna try to figure this out real quick I'll probably end up cutting a few pieces since it did come with extra clamps and extra couplers I'll probably just custom make some some piping with the extra couplers okay so we ended up having to skip to the next day cuz last night it started raining a lot so I was able to finish it in a garage I put my car back in I just wanted to show you real quick what I'm gonna do next I have to hook up the oil line for the feed and I want to show you on the back of this engine which is the same engine that's in the entire route they're exactly how I'm gonna do so though there are a few different methods on how to receive oil to the turbo or in other cases to the VTEC head for people who do LS VTEC the method that we're gonna use is adapting off of the stock sending unit for the oil pressure so this sensor I hear normally goes threaded into the back of the block right here next to the oil filter and what this is gonna do it's going to still provide the oil pressure to the sensor itself and have an extra port up top so we can supply oil to the turbo there's another method to do this which is using a sandwich plate which basically does a spacer right here and supplies oil from there which I personally prefer but the customer in this case has this and he wants to try this out something to keep in mind it's always important to when using these NPT fittings or MSB tee like any type of pipe thread you want to make sure that you have the correct thread tape which you can get this out like Lowe's or something which basically just stops the the fitting from leaking itself so we're at the car itself right now I'm not gonna record putting it on the car since I just described how you do it on a spare engine over there so essentially what we're gonna do is attach to this part to the to the motor itself and this fitting is gonna thread up top this is gonna sit on the back of the engine like this and supply the necessary of oil from here to the actual turbo itself and that should be all good besides that I have to put the radiator fan back on because I was trimming the shroud a little bit to fit the turbo better and the car should be ready to fire up after that mention it earlier he's not getting tuned yet he's waiting on injectors and an ECU to tune so I'm gonna leave the stock not stock but the aftermarket intake that he had right over here while he orders a crack piping and we'll just let it run like this it's been in the turbo but not producing any positive pressure that way he can drive it normal to work or around town no problem and then once he gets the correct parts for injectors and ECU I'll be able to put the right charged pipe in there and we can actually get a dyno tune so I have this stock sensor right there with the tee and the oil feed going out there and I'm gonna put the new oil filter and reconnect the stock sensor all right like I said we are gonna keep the target I've enough for now since it is stock tune and right now we are going to crank the car over although I disconnected the distributor because anytime that you do a big oil thing or something that you're getting rid of most of the oil in the car you want to crank it over first and have good oil pressure before you start it that should be enough now I'm gonna go ahead and plug that back in and then start the car well not super loud but now it's a good time to look underneath go all over all your oil especially like your oil line especially manifold starts oil under the new parts turn caller once they go through each cycle don't be worried about that another important thing to remember is that like I said earlier we have been messing with the oil system in the car regular oil change takes about four and a half quarts for these engines in this case we had to add about five quarts for two reasons when you do a normal oil change you have residual oil that's that always stays the oil pan that almost never gets drained out this gets filtered out throughout the time that it's in the engine and another reason now we have extra oil lines being the feed for the turbo and the return for the turbo so you have more space for where the oil needs to be so we filled it up to four and a half quarts which is the correct measurement we checked the dipstick and it was at the full we started it and let it idle for a little bit we checked the oil again and it was right at the half mark which indicates and I'm dropping the dipstick congruent it was right between those two dots which indicates needing about half a quart don't be worried about that it's very normal to have to add a little bit more that's why whenever you do anything like modification wise it's always good to start the car make sure it idles correctly turn it off let the oil settle down into the pan again and then recheck and add as needed so in this case it took the whole five quarts another quick little tip since we did change the oil pan gasket there's four places that you have to put our TV or Honda bond or Permatex whatever you decide to use which is between the where the block connects to the oil pump and the rear main seal or the housing for the rear main seal you have to put a little dab of honda bond I like to wait for it to fully cure before adding oil so for example what I did yesterday or yesterday yeah when I started the process I remove the oil pan and I put the honda bond as well as the gasket and put it back on as one of the first things that way it starts drying and the process of the cure begins I just now added the oil the very last thing because I wanted to give it as much time to dry as possible what's left for the car right now is basically put the stock bumper back on as well as the sore port brackets and everything everything that we took off and just like anything it's just reversing the process one thing they have to keep in mind is that this is an aftermarket component just like anything aftermarket things will not fit as OAM for example the stock splash guard that goes on the bottom we had to either modify or remove so we can fit the intercooler piping and then it fits a lot easier if the splash guard right here for the fender well is cut as well he's actually pretty slammed so he should be getting rid of that as well or at least modifying it so he can fit his tires to how he desires but it's just one thing to keep in mind don't be afraid if you have to modify a few things because that's just part of the game basically but that pretty much sums it up for today that's the end of the video you know I had to put the SP tune and sticker on there if you guys aren't already subscribed make sure to hit that subscribe and notification we are doing a lot more things not only with simple builds like this but if you don't know the channel already that's my integrity should probably pull in because it started to drizzle I have something over the up pipe so don't worry about that but that's my 659 horsepower Integra set up for drag racing I just got new slicks and the wheels for it so we are going to have some fun in this coming week make sure to leave a comment down below to let me know what you thought about it if you have any tips or tricks you want to share with everybody else let us know down below as well and like always have a good one and stay tuned for more

Channel: SP Tuning

Views: 102,799

Rating: 4.89959 out of 5

Keywords: ebay turbo kit install, ebay turbo, ebay turbo honda, sp tuning, how to turbo your honda, how to turbo a car, how to install a turbo, turbo basics, how to boost a car

Id: o2UO0HuXm14

Length: 21min 58sec (1318 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 20 2018