800HP Honda Build || Step-by-Step : Part One

[Music] what's going on YouTube to the og subscribers thank you very much for the support we just hit 5,000 for everybody joining us right now who's not already subscribed to the channel you probably don't know but this is our build we've got the project slow integra affair she's currently down again for upgrades and repairs we had a little issue with with the oil pump but everything's getting squared away so we are building this motor once again with some stronger parts better parts if you don't already know about it like I said earlier if you're not a subscriber we have a CSS LLS blog brought over to 81 and a half so just slightly bigger than stock we're running a GSR had with Pro once come to cams right now we just switched over to from an eagle rod to a Crower rod we've got y-scale ten-to-one pistons with in combination of the GSR LS Vita it should bring us up to about 10 3 10 4 + the block has been shaved and the head has been shaved so we're peaking right in the height ends almost 11:00 we're gonna be running just like on our old setup King racing Barry's thrust a rod and mains and then we've got the original white Zuko piston rings that come as a set when you bar new Pistons I've got the same wrist pins that come with them as well with the original C clips using Permatex ultra slick 470 loop on this thing we're gonna start off by honing out the block because on the previous setup we have a little oil pump failure so it ran a bit hot and gave us a little bit of scoring on the piston walls there on the cylinder walls so we just want to freshen this up get it nice and nice and clean for the new setup and hopefully we get some good insight for you guys show you how we like to build our motors we're not a professional shop or anything but we do the best that we can and try get specifications and everything and make sure that you guys can do the same as we do we're shooting for 750 to 800 horsepower with this setup right now the limiting factor is gonna be fuel right now we've got a single in tank walbro 450 85 High Flow with a 14 volt conversion off of a stand-alone relay my Bose boys are on Instagram looking at stuff instead of contributed to the video I got lost in all the car technical talk yeah yeah so like I was saying we have an impressive thank you we've got a single 450 in this that's what we have for now it should max out in mid 7os so we don't think that we're gonna get anything else out of it but I'll probably end up doing further down the line to in tanks for 50s or I might just end up doing a sump tank and then run something in line currently I have all the way from the tank to the front of dash 6 feed line which is those fittings back there as you can see and then go straight to the AEM fuel rail right over here to a dash six entrance and stock fuel pressure regulator return but that pretty much sums up the overview of the build I think we're gonna just dive right into it right now before we do that and show you the turbo we got we got a genuine Garrett GT 35 off of a PWR manifold with a 38 millimeter of wastegate which is a V ban which we're actually trying to get rid of and upgrade to a 44 so we can have better boost regulation at that high horsepower running Duralast gold axles which snapped a minute and a half off of the top of the dyno so we should be upgrading that soon stock GSR transmission with a phantom grip which is probably gonna blow very soon and a competition twin disc clutch okay so first things first like I just mentioned we are gonna be honing out the cylinder we've got this little line home hooked up to our cordless drill it's kind of on its way out the springs are a little bit weak on it but it makes do you're gonna want to first spray down the cylinder there you're gonna be working on with wd-40 and do the same to the stones on the hone on the Hohner and you to make sure it's nice and Lube so you don't have any problem when you're cutting through now you want to make sure that you don't take too much material off because not only do you need to gap your piston rings for each specific motor you also need to have a piston tool wall clearance and even though you're not really taking much material off with the honing of it you still take off thousands of an inch so what I like to do like I said this one's already on its way out just take this in here go in go and order one two four if you want to make sure that your speed and the speed of the the home and the speed of your in and out with the drill is consistent enough to give a crosshatch so the the rings can see properly so if you notice right here come a little closer and look at the speed of which I'm gonna turn it each person likes to do it differently not say mine is the correct way but I've had success with this specific speed and this specific motion engine buildings phone yeah wd-40 another thing to keep in mind you don't want to stop honing it and pull it straight out because then you'll get micro scratches going upwards which won't be consistent with your process so when you're done you just want to pull it out while you're still turning a little bit that way it doesn't do those scratches straight upward and show you the cross that's real quick it's very basic a lot of people are scared to do this but as long as you do a little bit at a time you really don't have much to worry about watch your face because you just keep an eye on it basically there is such thing as too much done that's why I'm saying do a little outside spray it out with some brake clean that way you know that there's no forum it's your material right there so you're looking at it you know you're looking at your fresh crosshatch and not residue testing the camera please you see I have a light crosshatch going in and you can see the scoring starting to disappear and we're gonna do this for a little bit more just looking get it nice and cleaned up then we'll move on to the other cylinders and ensure that they are [Music] more important than that very important thing that you want to do especially when you've had an engine problem before and you're just fixing it is all of these oil passages you want to either hit them with compressed air and break the parts cleaner or some type of cleaning solution and you want to make sure that there is no debris whatsoever within these oil passages what I like to do right here if you come over on this side when I do that and actually see where the brake clean is coming out from this passage and then a little bit from the oil where the filter goes put the camera up here to cover the bottom passage you can see it sprays from there and every once in a while you'll get little metal pieces or something like that from where the oil filter actually is in contact with the rest of the oil passages then we're gonna come over to this side spray the filter area or in here then there's little holes that you can go on the side and it comes out the front of the block same goes for right here you want to make sure a hundred percent of the oil passages aren't clean and clear make sure that it's a hundred percent clean for the fresh engine oil and fresh motor builds whatever you're doing you want to make sure that everything is clean because cleansiness is important in in an engine and although it might not be the prettiest on the outside we want to make sure that it's nice and functional on the inside and that everything is how it should now that we've got all the oil passages as clean as possible we are respraying the cylinders themself making sure that it's a hundred percent clean and that there's not any material that we basically cut off with the hoenn left in there even though we sprayed it and sprayed the crap out of it there's still a lot of residue you could say we're gonna make sure that it's clean a hundred percent we don't want any contaminants in this motor after that we're gonna go over the oil passages oil passages again with a little bit of wd-40 just so everything on the inside of the motor is coated with some type of some type of oil that way there is no corrosion that can occur even though we are something to smaller to go back in the car and run in the next week or two there shouldn't be a chance for the corrosion to start it's always a good practice to keep especially if you're building a motor for future cars okay so now we have finished unboxing our piston ring set from White's ago themselves these are eighty one and a half million year Pistons just as our Pistons that we're using for the motor comes with a spec sheet I'll see if I can take some pictures of it put it in the video as well this basically goes over the insula installation process as well as how to cap the piston rings and how you should present your gap for each one depending on your application now these are the two top rings so this one is the top this is the second what you're gonna want to do is install first with the lettering upwards if you can see on that using the lettering and then on the second one you've also got letterings you're gonna install that upwards as well the Weisse ago specifies that if their rings come without lettering and without Bevell then they can go either way but for the one specifically with that you want to make sure that it is installed tough words we're gonna gap the Rings first just like you should on almost any motor squeeze it together like this once they are together push the piston or the piston ring down you're gonna get your corresponding piston push it down evenly and they swing I like to do about halfway into the bore there you can see that it's nice in place I'm actually gonna do it a little lower than that see the skirt is just below the top now it's nice and evenly pressed on the bottom and what I like to do is go ahead and place the top ones as well just for demonstration purposes right now again like I said with the lettering upwards that same piston just push it down I like to do this one to about right here where the wrist pin goes in so you have that uniformity I guess across all the cylinders you just have it right up there so you have your top ring in your second ring you don't worry about the oil control rings left over here we're not going to worry about the gap just leave those off to the side let's come back over here bring and gap is the space between this piston ring the space between this piston right here the piston ring right here in correspondence with how much the cylinder is home board or how big it is I have over here what's this called the umbrella gage feeler gage I got a feeler gauge set off the top of my head I think it was 18 and 20 is what we put them to so we're just gonna look right here to see how how tight they are from the looks of it I'm gonna say maybe like 13 yeah this is a 13,000 feeler gage right there 13 thousands and you want it to go in tight which this did right off about 13 thousands and then usually go one size big once I small just to make sure that I've got the perfect one the bigger shouldn't fit in there at all the smaller one should go and easily so this is 13,000 s we're gonna get this up to about I think it was 18 which is what we were setting the motor for so let's pull this one out just to look at the bottom to see how it is right now try again with this 13 13 goes in very smoothly let's try just from the get-go let's try 20 and 20 actually goes in a little bit tight no pull this up a little bit again and push it down with the piston one more time just to make sure it's a hundred percent straight check again 20 thousands and it goes in a little bit snug if I had to say I'd say it's about 21,000 to be honest I try with 21 and 21 goes in very tight so that's right at twenty one thousandths we wanted to do the bottom rings at twenty thousand this is twenty one it's a little bit looser than we wanted but it'll be fine it's just one thousandths we're going to be cutting the top ring I'm just gonna set that in again and I'm actually gonna be placing all the bottom rings on right now just you have them all in place and then I'll show you how to cut them [Music] next thing we're gonna do is I'm gonna show you how I follow my piston rings actually ordering the correct a filer like that the new method to do it with the little wheel and everything this is pretty much the old-school method a file and a vise this is one of my old piston rings that I'm just going to be using for demonstrational purposes showing you the different ways to cut it I've got right here that old ring that I was mentioning we want to when cutting only cut with the piston ring going inwards so the file going into the ring the reason you're doing it like this is because you don't want it to have any birds towards the outside and if you get any burrs on the inside you can clean it up easily but if you have burrs on the outside that can cause the cylinder walls to be scraped later on and you don't want that to happen so you don't need much of this we're going from about 13,000 on the first ring to about 18,000 and like I said this is just an old ring that I had lying around to show you the process I like to squeeze them together so they're nice and square I'm moving on each side there's light pressure a couple passes and then recheck if you can always go more but you can't take away you can't add material back before we continue measuring and cutting the rest of the Rings I want to show you a little trick it's not really another method of cutting but it's a little trick that I've learned from other people and isn't it's worked in the past you get a nice little dremel hook it up on a vise put it on the low-speed and you basically cut the ring just like that so what this does right here when it's turning it's mimicking an actual piston ring cutter and you can cut the ring to size something that you have to take into consideration with this is the angle of the cut and make sure that you're doing very little at a time because that Dremel likes to eat the ring pretty fast so let me just show you exactly how I've done in the past and how you can do it yourself so the piston ring cutters that they sell online the replacement blades form I found out are about 120 grit to 160 depending on the brand this right here is a 120 wheel that you can get through Dremel or a couple of different companies that sell accessories for them so you want to turn this on and on this specific wheel it only has the grit on one side the other side is just a label so you're gonna do this and then flip it around or they sell the wheel with the grit on both sides so it depends what you buy but I'm gonna just turn this on and basically touch the ring and that's gonna be cutting the ring you want to do very little at a time and make sure that the ends are exactly how the manufacturer specifies some want them to be exactly well for the most part they want them to be exactly straight with each other to not have any type of angle where the Rings would meet or where the ring ends would meet so that something's happen to consideration this is just another test ring that we had extra that we were testing out just to show you how we cut with but something to keep in mind is if you go back to the Y sicko sheet or whatever company your piston rings are made from most likely they have something similar it talks about the filing and the gap of the filing shows you right here good and bad so you want to have them straight parallel to each other the end gaps not at an angle like this you want straight parallel amount of V angle so that's something very important to keep in mind exactly especially when you're using this type of method if you don't have a piston ring filer this is always a good thing to have as a similar way of doing it if not you can do the ham file method and there's always a few different tricks and ways that you can do it at home without the fancy tools if you're doing it like this you're gonna want to make sure that there is no burrs sticking out on the ring gaps just like we were talking about earlier if there's gonna be we want it to be coming inside towards the piston not towards the cylinder walls so you want to have the cut come into the ring that way we can clean up the inside and then that angles as well so like I said this is just a drunk ring we're gonna get our real rings and use this method to get the rest of them [Music] we just got cylinder 1 - exactly where we want it we got 18 a thousand sub top it's got to go in snug to the ring gap it's not get hold itself on there from how nice and snug it is but that's cylinder 1 we've got the bottom already pre capped like we had talked about then the top is to 18 so that's already nice and cut just to the square just like it said in the sheet so the end gap doesn't have any abnormal seating features or nothing but that's in there ready to go now we're gonna move to cylinder 2 3 & 4 do the exact same process [Music]

Channel: SP Tuning

Views: 350,165

Rating: 4.8756442 out of 5

Keywords: how to turbo a honda, how to build a honda, sp tuning, how to lower a car, how to make your car faster, how to build a b18, b18 turbo, garrett turbo, street racing

Id: 1bnt8TZpfO8

Length: 19min 45sec (1185 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 14 2018