Top 5 FREE and PAID Creality Ender 5 (Pro) Upgrades!

all right these things are like fort knox man oh my goodness [Music] oh what holy it's ridiculous come on you cannot fault wham bam for their [Music] packaging hey guys welcome back today we have the ender 5 pro and we have five of the most popular 3d printed upgrades off of thingiverse we also have five of our most popular purchasable upgrades that people are buying from the store here and installing on their ender 5 pros so stay with us let's get started so all the printable upgrades we've printed out of black pet g uh it you know has high rigidity a little bit of flex uh better temperature resistance than something like pla and it's less susceptible to creep these in particular are braces for the cantilevered bed here so the bed itself is only supported at the back by these bushings can't leave it out from that if you have a heavy print or you put any kind of force down on here you can see that the bed is actually flexing down so to stabilize that and make it more rigid we have these they just attach to the bushings on the back and to the bed arms which is what we'll call them here with zip ties so on the top here there are three holes for the zip tie to go through and then we'll just wrap around that arm as i mentioned ideally we'd have longer versions of these you know the same thickness so that they fit through the holes but just maybe twice as long would be nice so i'm gonna have to double these up to make them longer and on the back there's three channels as well for zip ties but these ones actually lead through and out the other side you know there's no hole at the back for them to come out uh and those will just as i said attached to the the bushings on the back so each one of these has a little ridge here this ridge kind of frames it right along the side of of the cantilever bed there so that helps you with your uh that helps you with your alignment so that should go like that and on the back here there are a couple holes and that's to just provide clearance for the screws that hold these bushings onto this plate um so those should just kind of slide in there if for some reason they're not sliding in you know your clearance your clearance wasn't just quite enough you can just drill those out i mean it's not structural or anything and in our case i think it's just going to be a nice tight press fit kind of here like that and then we'll start by attaching it to the bed so as i mentioned they just slide in these holes and probably difficult to see but i'm going to double it up to give me a little bit extra length so we'll snug these up like a little bit more once we get get them all installed but that's the general idea we'll do that two more times on this side and then on the back slide them through out the other side and if we're lucky this might be long enough for just one there we go so we'll repeat that two more times and two more times for the bed attachment and so that's what the back looks like done all you know all six three on either side and then on the side here i've got the three straps attached to the to the plate there and there's still clearance for the screws and for the knobs and everything it's actually quite a nice design and it's you know easy on the eyes as well and most importantly is that it's stiffer than it was before we put on the brackets so the next one we're gonna install is this and if you have an ender three even an original ender three this is a popular upgrade it's to cover the electronics on the back of the screen so if we kind of carefully throw this guy on its front like so so this is going to cover the electronics and there's a circular cutout for the buzzer and then there's a cutout for the ribbon cable there for the screen and this just attaches using the four bolts that hold this on stock so with those four bolts out kind of flops around a little bit like this we're gonna have to take out the ribbon cable slide the cover on like that kind of line everything up and with any luck these will go right back into the original threaded holes there i find it easiest to actually press the screws through the holes first before trying to assemble it and that way we're not sitting there spinning not realizing the screws not through the hole and if you have any little stringy pieces in there you can just kind of use your your tool to scrape them out to make sure that we can get the new bolt through the hole okay so i've kind of pre-threaded those through and they're poked out the other side and now slide this over top take a peek through one of the corners here and just once we get the first one kind of threaded in we can use that to align the rest great so you know a little bit more of a finished look when we're done there all right so two down three to go this one so this is something that we've had on the cr-10s and many other similar types of printers strain relief for the bed cable now even though the bed here is not moving in the y direction so you don't have that constant bending of the of the cable going to the heated bed um you know the bed does move just up and down there is still the potential for this to fatigue over time as the bed is going up and down so strain relief is nice it's easy to do so why not for this we need a 10 millimeter m3 pan head screw and just a standard m3 nut and it has a captive nut recess in the print itself so the nut will slide into the print and on the side of the bed here where the cable is there is a small hole right here and that's what we're going to bolt this through so being that the hole is there this will align like that there's a little notch here to help you align it with the edge of the bed and then we'll bolt through that hole and just use two zip ties which it also has little tiny holes in there for the zip ties to attach the heated bed cable to the stream relief bracket so i've got the zip ties on there and i got that bolt in there luckily so these uh support arms for the the bed should probably have been installed afterwards this particular model doesn't have any provision to get good access to that hole that we were using to to bolt the strain relief bracket to so luckily i had just enough clearance that i could use the rounded portion of the allen key instead of the squared off side to get in there on a bit of an angle and still have enough bite to be able to twist that that bolt and get it to engage into the nut so that is one of the benefits of rounded allen ends it gives you uh some degree of freedom as far as the angle that you can go in at and you know if you have some good bonus ones uh you can get quite an angle and still have good bite they're really well designed uh alternatively i could have like taken a blowtorch to this which is what i would do at home and just melt a hole on a reasonable angle right through the bracket right up to that bolt so that i could get easy access through that melted hole definitely you know impacts the structural integrity i guess a little bit of the bracket itself it's really tiny hole it's probably inconsequential but it's just something to be aware of it's definitely messier it's smelly so you know if you are doing this make sure you have a provision to get access or do it before you put on those brackets anyway so this last piece here is another kind of strain relief these two little notches here press fit onto the spacers that space the wheels out from the back plate of the x carriage so if we press this down kind of snaps into place like that it's not super rigid to be honest um you know maybe our clearance is a little bit off there and then if we just kind of coax these wires here we might have to move this zip tie somewhere else because kind of getting in the way but we'll be able to zip tie this to this little support bracket so it does two things it stops that from being a a point of fatigue on the wires and it also keeps this entire assembly kind of up especially if you don't have it zip tied to your bowden tube your bowden tube will likely still stay upright and pretty rigid but the wires themselves can like say i can kind of fall down so this will stop that from happening and then the bracket itself has channels for the zip ties to go straight through like that like the other ones we've seen and we'll just zip tie those on to there like i said i'm going to remove this zip tie here so you'll notice that i didn't put the bowden tube through the first zip tie because there's not enough spacing in the bracket itself to fit both the wire loom and the bowden tube in there so i just ran it through the top two zip ties and honestly i probably could have put the bowden tube through none of them and it wouldn't make any difference it's most important that we're stopping the strain relief or providing string relief to the wire loom itself all right last but not least or actually least the most simple one this little wheel it's kind of a movement indicator if you will it's got a flat spot on it and it presses right onto here just align the flat spot with the flat spot on the stepper motor like that and this just lets you at a glance visually see that the stepper motor is moving and you know if you have a clog or a jam or something and you're skipping steps you'll see this kind of twitch like that sometimes if it's jammed you'll also be able to see it retract it will go backwards as well so you can you know just at a glance diagnose some kind of common problems you might run into so that's some quality of life printable upgrades um you know some of them are just visual upgrades uh but all printable very cheap to do some of them you know i would consider must-haves you know strain relief on the cables um that just seems crazy not to have in this day and age to be honest and now we have five you know retail or purchasable upgrades raspberry pi 3 or 4 if you want to go crazy more than enough horsepower in the 3b for things like octopi octoprint being able to control your printer and send prints to it remotely you know time lapse if you hook up a camera to this very very popular i myself use repetir server mostly repertoire server there's a distribution for the raspberry pi or you can run it on a full-fledged linux pc i think there's even a windows version as well but lots of flexibility and experimentation you can do with that and then board upgrades another common upgrade especially on printers that came with noisy stepper drivers like the a4988s would be a main board swap one thing it would address is that noise that i that i mentioned uh you also have more smarts in something like the 2209s from trinamic and nevermind the silence and there's 32-bit boards instead of your legacy 8-bit board if you have a machine that came with that so we have a big tree tech this is the skr mini e3 so this is a direct swap board it's the same form factor as the stock board that's in something like this except it comes with 2209s let me just make sure uh yep it comes with the tmc 2209 stepper drivers i myself use the 2209s as well and i control them through uart uh so the parameters of the stepper drivers themselves like the amperage for them can be controlled completely through g-code there's also you know sensorless homing that you can have configured and you can monitor their status through g-code as well so that's kind of cool so this as i said direct swap pull one out pull one in flash it with the firmware with configuration appropriate for this machine and you're good to go this also comes with heat sinks and they have like some little thermal uh tape on them to attach them to the stepper drivers uh just to provide additional cooling and a micro sd card now the um the skr boards like this that are running marlin 2.0 it's 32-bit and that sd card is actually where the firmware gets loaded onto so you can actually just plug in your computer it shows up as a drive letter you drag your compiled firmware onto it and the next time it boots it loads the firmware a little bit different than having to kind of flash it in real time with the serial cable connected or the usb cable emulating serial connected it comes with a tiny usb cable and most important it comes with a duck if you guys uh have any uh big tree tech stuff uh you'll know that they're always including these little rubber duckies so now we've done you know a board swap we've got remote control uh through our home network uh through wi-fi in that case maybe and maybe we'll want to swap the hot end so there are some direct drive uh extruders that are basically uh plug and play and in this case we're looking at a micro swiss myself like direct drive over bowdoin it's just what i'm most comfortable with i don't like having to compensate for the for the back pressure that can build up in a bowden system especially with a longer bowden tube and you know more of the oozing type scenarios you'll run into but also you know with a bowden you have less weight on your hot end and so therefore less weight on this entire carriage so you should be able to print at higher speeds with less reduction in quality meaning less ringing and such than you would when you start loading all kinds of mass onto the uh onto the x carriage there so as i said this is a direct swap bolts right on to the original mounting points for the heatsink for the hot ends so that's what that is it's got this plate that replaces the entire x carriage assembly and that's where the filament path goes down there it comes with the tools all the tools you'll need a nozzle all the bolts a little piece of capricorn tube the heater block silicone cap a extension cable for the stepper motor cable because the extruder stepper motor is back here stationary right now and now it's going to be attached to this assembly and moving around so instead of the cable just reaching here it needs to reach an additional distance and this just happens to be exactly the distance we need we would just zip tie it to this assembly there comes even with the zip ties perfect segue and a 3d printed little strain relief bracket so our cables will come up the top like that and like all micro swift stuff they have fantastic instructions on their website for installation and being that it is a platform specific direct replacement kit you know you don't need to print specific bits for the printer you happen to be installing it for everything that you need is here and included and in this case this is for any of the ender fives next we have the auto bed leveling sensor this happens to be direct from creality it is a bl touch like we've seen many many times on the channel only instead of rolling your own buying the bl touch printing the appropriate bracket getting the extension cable if you happen to need one this comes with everything that you need much like the micro swiss this is a direct swap kit i'm not going to open up all the packages but all the wire extensions that you need the bl touch itself of course and in this case it's coming with the breakout board so in the past we've actually sliced the ribbon cable and spliced in to to steal the beeper uh wire to control the bl touch this actually breaks it out into separate pins so it's non-destructive uh very much plug and play as i said with these direct swap kits you don't need to print or provide really anything they're they're just bolt and go it even comes with a metal bracket for the bl touch that will mount right to the hot end assembly or the carriage assembly there and provide you a nice rigid mounting point for your bltouch and there's nothing stopping you if you want a different mount of sorts you can go ahead and print many of the ones that are available and last but not least i have a major disdain for these mats i find that many materials just stick to it too aggressively and end up ruining the mat or i end up ruining the mat getting the print off of it i don't typically have a problem with adhesion on glass on mirror pei um you know guerra light sometimes for my nylon prints but these things are the bane of my existence so i you know although this works if i am able to i'll spring for something that is spring steel based like the wan ban so the wham-bam kit if we open this guy they want to make sure that nothing gets damaged in transit and it's not going to get damaged so first thing you'll find is a so first of all this is called the wham bam flexible build system and this comes in a couple different options you can get a it in all kinds of different sizes and you can get it with different print surfaces so one of theirs is pex and i find that to be a pretty versatile surface much like pei though i find it works better for a wider array of materials for me and so let's get rid of all this packaging here we go [Applause] so you have instructions and stickers stickers are very important and then we have a new magnet sheet so this is a higher temperature magnet than what would come standard here i would suggest removing the existing magnet and sticking this to the heated build plate itself um it is a little bit thicker as well it's also labeled wham bam and they have the 3m 468 mp which is a higher temperature i think it's good for about 120 degrees or so it's a very aggressive adhesive so next we see another 3m sticker on the back of the pex sheet it's even labeled here pex and so again 468 mp adhesive and this is to stick it to this metal sheet so wham bam this is a spring steel sheet it's very thin and light and allows you to just kind of flex and pop your prints right off of it you don't need a scraper anymore for sure and you know when it's cold they pop off very easily in many cases you don't need to even need to flex it to be honest so you want to make sure that you get this you know bubble free adhered down to the build plate if you have a bubble in there you can use like a tiny pin to prick it and let the air out but if a bubble remains under there that area is definitely going to be higher and that will screw with your leveling and you'll have the nozzle kind of smack into that spot a little bit so make sure you get that all nice and smooth um and same with the uh the magnet itself and then the build plate magnetizes on there it's got little nice pull tabs to peel it off and then flex and pop your pop your print off so this is a good system as i said you know the stock system works well enough just be careful about items adhering too aggressively to there and you know you can already see our purge line has left a mark here and you can see the outline of one of these prints which actually might have even been from one of those printable upgrades but anyway so that's another option you know if you wanted to by all means you can use the existing magnetic sheet you know until it gives up the ghost or stops kind of holding this down as aggressively especially if you have warped prone materials if you have a a weak magnet it can actually curl the the flexible build plate right off which i have had happen when i was doing a full 300 by 300 box it actually lifted the edges um so this this magnet is well it's thicker first of all it's much more aggressive than the stock one but there's no reason you can't use that right i almost forgot why did we have steel wool well like always we're going to read the instructions of course but this is to slightly mar the surface of the pec sheet which gives the material just a little bit more bite you know just like anything preparation is key right you want to sand the surface well to give you something good to adhere to and so that's what this is for just some light swirls follow the instructions you know you can do it without but you know if you're having any kind of difficulty that's kind of a way to refresh this surface here and this also works for pei as well again we don't want to overdo it in any of these cases it's just a light marring of that surface so there you go you've got the top five most popular printed upgrades for the under five pro and the top five retail items that we sell for the inner five pro hopefully you found all of that useful remember to like and subscribe and ring the bell to get notified when we upload more videos like the ender 5 pro thanks for watching how am i even the f gonna do this um yeah what have i done

Channel: 3D Printing Canada

Views: 108,185

Keywords: Creality Ender 5, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5 Upgrades, Creality 3D Printer

Id: _Kugc6M14SU

Length: 22min 39sec (1359 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 24 2020