Creality Ender 5 Upgrades Best of the Best How to Part 1 My favorite 1st round of improvements

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[Music] hi folks and welcome to this episode of michael's 3d world we're back with the ender five now i've had the under five for about two weeks now unboxed and up and running and maybe a little maybe a little less than that probably two weeks and i'm ready to do some modifications to it why because i can't leave well enough alone now what i did do is go onto the internet and went on youtube and i searched out all the under five mods i could find and i i like to do that uh just to see what what improvements are people making and why are they making these improvements and i think i've picked the best improvements i'm going to share those all with you now and i'm going to put everything that's i did to this is going to be either in links to it into the comments or not comments the description below in thingiverse or it will be uh amazon links or links to other people that sell products for these machines to get exactly what i did to make the exact modifications that i've made here so follow along and let's see what i did and let's see why i did it let's jump in right now let's move this printer over to the surgeon's table that's what i'm calling it now uh let's let's do some operations on this thing and show you why i did what i did and we're going to do some more alrighty we're on the surgeons table let's show you some things that i've already done and some things that i think are are good that you might need to do if you own one of these now the first thing i would print see this little red part right here that i've got the cable hooked to the first thing i would print when i get this machine would be print this strain relief because this cable wiring coming off the table is not supported in any way and has to move up and down and it puts a lot of stress right here on the joints where it's hooked up so this here is easy it takes one little screw as you can see right here that's it already pre-drilled hold it in your machine and you slide that on put that screw in zip tie your cable in place and now it's not it's got support and it won't move there's another strain relief and only reason i haven't hooked this one up completely yet is because i'm not done this is a strain relief for this upper piece here and it's just it's a nice little piece it just snaps right in place it's actually well designed links for all this will be down below in the comments or in the description i keep wanting to say comments i don't know why but that one up that one has slots through here that you can put zip ties through but i'm not quite done with this part of it yet so i'm gonna let that be as it is for now another simple mod is this little cover it's a printable cover and it covers up the electronics on the back side so when you're up here trying to operate this thing your fingers aren't touching anything back here and i like how that turned out but the roller i really like this roller this setup all the like i said all the things for thingiverse will be in the description below uh it's got two little ball bearings the roller sits right on here moves very smoothly lets it come up and up through the feeder without any issues so i really like that setup there that's actually really nice now one one of the ones i really like that turned out really well these bed supports here now these are i've seen several different types of bed supports i've searched them quite a few of them on thingiverse what i like about this one is it uses four bolts to connect all these together and bolt it together to this bushing that's already here which is a nice firm versus the ones i've seen at zip tie then i've also seen this one up here though the ones that just zip tie up around this well this has a friction fit let's see if we can get you in here it's hard to see up in here it's all blocked but it has a friction fit that actually sandwiches onto this plate and it pushes snugly onto that plate right here but i tell you what made this end very stiff if without the supports under here this bed had a lot of flex and when you're going to wipe it down with some alcohol like you do between prints it you know just made you feel uneasy because of flex so much now it feels like it has so much support there again these will be in the comments below links to show you where to get those so you can print those yourself now everything you see here that i printed in red i did on this machine i let it print its own parts which is really nice to do now one thing i still don't care for so much and i have to figure out something is this wire management is kind of a mess there's a cover you can print to cover this up but i'm going to wait and do that after i'm done with all of my all of my modifications and then i probably will print that cover so it sits here and hides all that but not yet what we're going to do today now now those are all the mods that i've done so far pretty simple mods print them put them on use them now we're going to get into some of the electronics now this does not have a silent board and because it doesn't have a silent board i can't leave well enough alone you guys know me already i put silent boards on three of the five machines i have over there this would be number four uh the only reason it isn't on all six of my machines is because two of them came with silent boards already on the cr-10s came with silent boards this one does not now the cool part about this i did have a couple of extra after i had my uh indoor 3v2 board go out uh within two months of owning it i had an e drive go out on it and uh troubleshoot shot that you'll see that some of the other videos if you go through the history of my videos you'll find out how i discovered what was wrong there but so i bought a few extras because you never know if one goes out and i hate being down for three or four days waiting on parts to show up uh when i could be printing stuff so i ended up with two extra boards and i put one in the inter 3 pro recently uh you'll you've seen that video by now and i put the uh i'm going to put one in here because the cr5 can handle the 4.2.7 board it's a direct replacement in this machine you just got to flash it with the right firmware and you're up and running so let's get in here i'm going to show you what i'm going to what i'm going to do to install two or two things i'm going to install let me get some stuff i'm going to show you some stuff i'm going to do one of the things we're going to do today is we're going to install our raspberry pi this is a raspberry pi 3b plus and what this do is this will allow me to wirelessly connect to this machine which is really nice and on this with this little pie we're going to install us a little tiny fan inside this case as well to keep this pie cool and comfortable you don't need to it's just something i'm going to do on this one the other thing i've got is the ender not the ender the the 4.2.7 motherboard unopened package we're going to break that out today and we're going to hook that up the other thing i'm going to do with this pie is i'm going to use a buck inverter and i'm going to direct wire the pie to my power supply so i don't have to run a separate power source i'll show you how to do that too we're also going to be installing not one not two but three butt converters and i'm gonna tell you why and i happen to have three that's my last three actually uh i'm gonna run a power supply or butt converter to power down from the power supply from 24 volts roughly to 5 volts for the raspberry pi i'm also going to run a butt converter for my 820 flex fans these are flx fans i'm sorry a4 by 20 they're 40 by 20 millimeter premium knock to a fans i'm gonna be putting on as you see me do before a new hot end cover this hot end cover has a fan here and a fan here and they're both noctua fans they're really quiet if you've heard this thing already run in the in the intro video and it just has a whiny sound plus these fans are crazy noisy and you know me and noisy fans right now you can probably hear a little bit of something behind me i've got three printers running in the background if they didn't have quiet fans in uh silent boards on them it'd be a big distraction you just hear that thing whining and carrying on the background that's why i like having these quiet because i do some videoing down here and i like to have those things running so we're going to install this as well this machine i'm going to get it up to this point but in another video i think i've decided i'm going to put a micro swiss direct drive all metal hot in direct drive uh kit on here they're about 100 bucks and that's gonna that's gonna change this whole thing about this machine it's gonna get rid of this ridiculously long bowden tube because this bone tube has to be that long because it has to come this thing has to come clear over here with a direct drive no button tube but anyway that's in another video not this video anyway we're gonna get busy hooking all this stuff up wiring it all in and i'll bring you guys right along with me on how i do this because i think it's going to be a pretty cool setup when i'm all done the machine's going to be quiet it's going to be what one switch powers everything on it's going to be some really nice quiet fans and the new fans the knockout fans yes they aren't cheap they're 12 13 14 apiece but i've already had a few of these fans go out inside of a couple of months they start making some noise uh they might rattle a little bit you thump them and else and they get quiet well guess what that's your fan going bad that's a cheap fan these fans are not cheap but they also have a lot of hours of service that are lined up with them and people have asked me well they don't they don't turn the same rpm they don't do this don't do that they're more efficient and they do turn the same cfm or put out the same as cfm of air if not more so let's jump in let's flip this thing on its back which we should be able to do with these so we can gain access to the bottom side of this now i'm going to get you down here and we're going to jump in and take a look at what's going on in the guts of this thing okay we got this thing on this back now you guys have asked me before what kind of tools do you have what kind of things do you do well let me show you these all be links to all this stuff will be in the description below but i got bolt kits a socket head cap screw and a flat head cap screw a flat head screw stainless metric kits here that i like to use i've got this ifixit tool kit my son's an it guy and he turned me onto this and i've never looked back these things are awesome to have i've got some 24 gauge wiring i've got a little socket set here for and the only thing i use here is a six millimeter for taking the uh hot end apart i've got wire strippers needle nose pliers the little nippers that came with your printer some regular pliers exacto knife if you need them a little flashlight and i got my heat shrink or heat gun for heat shrink tubing and i got my solder gun along with some solder then i've got the original kit that came with the machine with my little uh my own personally designed tool holder to hold it and then i've got miscellaneous other things here you know you got extra tips extra boating too bowden tube uh extra little zip ties i keep all the leftover wires from the knockout fans that i've installed because i do use the wiring and i do use some of the ends occasionally but anyway you hang on to all that stuff why not uh give yourself some nice little containers stored away oh and i got a volt meter you got to have a volt meter because we're going to have to uh adjust the butt converters down to the proper voltage for each device that it's running got a little hot glue gun here nothing special because these little butt converters i like to take these plastic cases that i've printed out and glue them up to the machine that way it holds everything in place where it belongs all right let's take this bottom off and see what we got on the underside [Music] all right in order to change out the motherboard here first thing you got to do is get rid of all the hot glue they put on it every one of these little connectors that you got to take loose has hot glue on it and i found it the easiest way to remove the hot glue is just take a pair of needle nose pliers and pinch it and you can pull it right off if you try to pull these connections apart without removing the hot glue chances are you're going to destroy your connector and you might ruin an actually a perfectly good noisy motherboard so every one of these connections has hot glue on it they do this because of the shipping to keep the connections from just falling off so just gently get in here and what i've found is just a little pinch and a pull and that glue comes right off [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right now we're gonna remove the motherboard screws there's usually four of them let's see how many this one has there's one right here one right here between these two plugs one down the bottom middle here and there should be one more i'll bet because it's not moving yet there it is right here now you got your motherboard free let's go ahead and open up the other package here now we got our 4.2.7 motherboard that we're going to stick in here and it'll go back in the same orientation as your other one just came out make sure your little uh sockets line up up here as you can see here they've actually put hot glue on these pieces as well there we go all hot glue is removed now looking at this i'm just now seeing that this might be easier this may be easier to put all these wires here and here in with the motherboard out where i can get at this a little easier so i think i'm going to do that i think i'm gonna make life a little easier on myself and then and then only then will i swap the plugs out now that we've got all these wires connected in the proper fashion one at a time removing them here putting them on here we're gonna do the same thing here remove these one at a time carefully and gently unplug and plug them right into the new board in the same location [Music] [Applause] now one thing you will have here is you see here the the motherboard cooling fan is plugged in right in series here on your new motherboard it's not that way the new motherboard is plugged in uh right over here it'll be there's two sockets right here next to each other and it'll be the one closest to this row of sockets and then this other one with the blue and yellow i can get it undone here blue and yellow will go out here blue and yellow goes to the left this hot end fan here i mean the motherboard fan i'm sorry a plug-in right there because this board is just a touch different than than the original one but the e z y and x are the same same way down here they're all clearly labeled uh and your wiring harness is all clearly labeled which is nice because now i can go back in here and plug all this in so now we got the y cable [Music] now we've got it all hooked up don't be afraid to put your old motherboard into the same case your new one came out of and just stick that aside because this is a good backup board in case something was to go bad with this board you've got a backup board that you can plug right back in everything we're going to do here today you can plug this right back in and not miss a beat it's just going to be noisy again but do all the same things it did before all right now that we have that installed we're not going to put everything back together yet because i got more work to do under here but i want to make sure everything's working as it should with the changes that i've made so we're going to go ahead and gently upright this thing it'll be fine just like this for a little bit now what i have i've got an sd card that i have put a it's called a dot bin file with the new firmware that i need to flash the hard drive with or the motherboard with the motherboard does not know what machine it's currently hooked to i've copied this off creality.com i'll show you how to do that right now all right we've got the the what do you want to call it reality.com forward slash download site opened up we're going to go to the ender series click once we're going to go to the ender 5 click once and we're going to go to the ender 5 and 5s 4.2.7 main board zip 32 bit zip you're going to click that once and it's going to download just like this once it's done downloading you can open it up what you're going to see here is another folder you're going to open that folder and if you have the bl touch or other versions select that one this one here i'm using it has none of the other features so it is strictly uh a plain under five so here's your dot bin file but you're gonna select that file and you're gonna drag it over to where you have your sd card your micro sd plugged into your computer drag it in there dump it in and you're ready to rock and roll and then this is what you're gonna do next okay now that we've done that we've installed the card we're going to hook power to it now and when you power it on your screen is not going to come up as normal it's going to flash the firmware so it'll take a second or two longer for it to come up let's see what happens what it's doing now is retrieving the information off your sd card it's saying okay um this new motherboard is telling me it's an enter five and this is how we're going to operate it see that took a little longer than you normally have been seeing come up on your it says ender five ready now let's just for fun let's home it let's see how quiet it is we're gonna prepare auto home look at that silence is its name now you can really hear the fan up here that's cool that works everything seems to be functioning fine reason you want to do that before you start doing all this other stuff i'm going to be doing to it make sure what you just did works so you're not uh trying to troubleshoot a whole bunch of different things now that we know this works just fine now i want to go ahead and we're going to go back in it we're going to swap out this fan shroud with my new noctua fans but first i got to do some wiring more wiring underneath to make this happen and first and foremost let's get this bad boy in place because i really want to get my raspberry pi hooked up wirelessly to my computer so i can send programs over without using the sd card all right we can go ahead and power it back off now since we know everything works okay we're going to hook up this raspberry pi but first thing we got to do is get power fork now what you can see here i've picked up a negative terminal here off the power supply and a positive terminal off the power supply and brought them right up in here to the butt converter positive n negative n positive out negative out sorry i have my finger in a way positive out negative out now we're gonna have to tune this thing so that it has just five volts of power these are my output wires here i haven't done anything with them yet they're just hanging here i'm going to go ahead and power this thing back on now and we're going to turn the butt converter down with this little pot screw right here you're going to have to i think it's counterclockwise i'm pretty positive it's counterclockwise we're going to wind this thing out until my voltmeter reads 5 volts and then we'll have the proper power coming out of here for my raspberry pi now one thing i do like about this case is it gives me tons of room to work and you guys are probably asking again maybe maybe you are maybe you aren't how did you get that little i got these little uh their uh butt converter cases i printed off of a thingyverse links in the description below anyway uh they they're nice because they have a little zip ties here on each end so you can actually choke strap this so it doesn't takes all the stress off the joint it's in there just nice and static now nothing's going to affect the way how that's connected these wires can wiggle around a little bit it doesn't do anything inside and then it has this sweet little cover that you can stamp right over the top of it boom and close it off now some people might be saying yeah you need these things need to be cooled off they need to stay cool well there's some air in there i've seen people take heat shrink tubing over these butt converters and just heat shrink them in so they're fully enclosed uh no air at all and they work just fine but i like to i like this setup right here this is just clean and neat so i'm gonna go ahead and put you back on the stand i'm gonna dial put the power back to it and dial in that butt converter to five volts now we're gonna go ahead and power this on saw that fan kick on see some lights kick on some things move around a little bit no big deal you see the butt converter light glowing red means she's got juice now we're going to go ahead go in here on the outside where the power is coming out and we're going to put a positive on the positive and a negative on the negative and we'll see if i can do all this so you can see the my volt meter see it's right now it's at 22 volts i'm gonna get on this little pot screw here with my little baby screwdriver oh come on it's really hard one-handed two-handed i should say we're just gonna dial that all the way down to five volts there we have it five volts it's kind of cool that light was really bright before and now that it's dialed back to 5 volts it's a lot less bright but it's still there so now we have our power ready to go to our raspberry pi now we'll go ahead and power it down and unplug the power cord and we're off to power up the pi now now if you've already purchased the noctua fan kits it will come with a bunch of wires excess wires and whatnot there's one on there that i've already cut the other end off of it i'm using the three prong end here that just has three wires coming out of it the other thing you want to do here is these little alignment ribs take your little nippers and just take those right off because that will allow you to then plug in to the outside two terminals of this pie and we're going to use the black and the yellow on here and not the red and what that's going to do is it's going to give us the black is actually going to be positive the yellow will actually be negative that's okay that's how we're going to make our connection here and i'm pretty sure i hope this will fit on double test fitted right here i haven't done this one this type of pie case yet well as you can see i had to do a little trimming on the case here there's that little red little spot missing out there just so i can get this to fit now if you have a different plug-in that you want to hook up into your pie with that's fine or you might want to print off a different case but uh yeah this one here now let it fit and you want to see this because this will be on the rails that's how i'm going to install it so now we have the power wires coming out of there that should work all right okay i just want to catch up on what i've got going on here so i use that little plug that i trim the thing off of trim the little tabs off up so i could use the black for the positive and the yellow for the negative that just makes me a quick connect here plus for my raspberry pi fan here i've used this terminal number one for positive and number five on this side for negative so now when i turn the power on as you can see this little light lights up red this little light here is flickering green which means it's working off the software that i've installed on it and as you can see the pi fan is running only thing would be left to do is to hook my usb cable in and we'll get to that here in a minute but anyway i've just got things i don't have anything soldered together here just get these wires twisted together right here and here just to make sure everything's functioning right and to make sure that my octopi is working on my computer now i did steal a little bit of uh i put a little bit of uh hot glue on here to keep all these connections firm so now they can't wiggle or move or come loose on me uh stole that little bit from the chinese which they do on the uh these particular creality machines it's actually not a bad idea just to make sure something that could come loose might come loose why let it now i've got to secure it a lot better [Music] so all right guys let me see if i can catch on catch up on where i'm at now we did tap into the power supply here positive to negative 24 volt took those wires right in here to the butt converter right started on my wires both in and out of the butt converter dialed the butt converter down to 5 volts that's 5.0 now i'm coming out of the butt converter here and down and around and i got this little this is the housing that was on the original knock to a fan shroud so now i've got that coming through here and i snuck it through the vent on the side here this is coming out so clean and neat i'm so happy i'm happy with it then it comes right to the side here now i've got this thing laid on its back still right to the side here and goes right up let's go this side right into the pi case right and that's got my power powered up now i'm going to tilt this back down flat this is how it sits on the machine so i've got the double rail pi case locked in here it's not going anywhere and i've got it just off the bottom of this surface here so i can pass the wire underneath it now the other tricky thing i did is i got to hook the usb port up to the front of the machine here so i've got a 90 degree usb to to mini usb uh right here so it comes out i got it going down in the trough here down in the channel up and i'm consuming all the extra cable up up up and i went up and around here and back down the channel to the pi case clean and neat as can be no no really exposed wires here showing that's done the pi is hooked up the raspberry pi is operational uh i can hook i've got it connected wirelessly to my computer now and i'll leave a link in the description below to my other video that shows how to hook a raspberry pi to your printer it's an it's actually easy if you follow it step by step um i've done it enough times now approximately now six times uh i'm getting better at it every time so as far as we've spent an hour and a half doing what i've done here with all these connections i'm taking my time i'm trying to make it neat and clean i'm thinking it through before i start but you guys can take my ideas and you can implement them you don't you could probably do it faster than i did it also the pie fan is hooked up inside just like i showed you it's all ready to rock and roll when i flip it on like this you see the little red light that comes on inside the pie i can barely see it it's in there though but it's all up and running pops right up we're ready to start printing okay now we've got the pie installed that concludes this part of it and how we did it okay now that we've got the raspberry pi all installed wired up looking really cool nice clean neat and well done we're gonna go to start putting the we're gonna go to start putting the that's a lot of words with nothing being said isn't it i gotta start working on my dialect dialect my i don't know i gotta start talking better [Laughter] anyway what we're gonna do now is we're gonna take the fans that are up top here way up top here on the hot end we've got two fans right we got one that comes on that's on all the time that's these two red wires here coming out of the power supply alright the motherboard those are on all the time those are running at 24 volt we also have this blue and yellow here blue and yellow right back in here this plug-in that we plugged in when we transferred the wires over that is the fan that kicks on when your uh first second or third layer is done what however you have your slicer set up for use this once the first layer is done then the fan kicks on and runs the rest of the runs the rest of the time the print's going on so you want to have this to be able to be turned on and off and right here we've got the blue and yellow that we also want to take down to 20 are from 24 volt down to 12 volt so these nakua what i have here these noctua fans can be hooked up to this new cooler that's going on there so these set on there like that and one of them sets up here like this and they hook up to the hot end up there and they just look a lot cooler and they work pretty nice and they're so much quieter anyway since i've done everything else on this machine in red i also printed this off in red as well this was also printed off on this machine why not this machine has printed all of its own upgrades all of them which is pretty cool you can do that you can print off all these upgrades before they're done the only upgraded this has not printed off is this butt converter here and these other two cases that i'm gonna have because i had a bunch of my printed off before i had some machine time available so i sat there and ran off a bunch of them and lo and behold i'm down to my last three and uh when i get my next printer i'm gonna have to print off some more anyway let's get busy splice it in some wires and i'll show you what we're gonna do we're basically gonna do the same thing i did here we're gonna take the power coming off the coming off the board here go into a butt converter and then up to the hot end and then the same way with this blue and yellow we're going to come off of here into a butt converter and up to the hot end really easy and the cool part is i'm going to add a little bit of wire to this i'm going to cut this wire and i'm going to add some wire to it same way with this red wire i'm going to just pull these out go right straight straight into a butt converter and have a new wires come into the butt converter easy peasy let's get started i'm going to put you in time lapse you don't need to watch me solder and cut i'll run you through everything when i'm done and you can see how i have it laid out [Music] okay let me catch you up on what i've done here i've taken the blue and yellow wire coming off the motherboard here that's the plug-in for your fan this is for your tip cooling and i've got it coming in positive and positive here in this case is yellow negative is blue so positive negative n positive negative out and that goes right back in ties right back into the wires that go up to the hot end same thing here i took two wires here two new wires plugged them in here came into my power in positive end negative end came out hooked onto my original wires that are going back up to the hot end for this is for the fan on the hot end that's on all the time anytime the power is on so now we've got all that wiring done we're connected back up to where we can run just like we could just like we did uh before i added these in but the cool part is now what i'm going to do is i'm going to dial these back to 12 volts just like i dialed this one back to 5 volts to run the raspberry pi i'm going to dial these two back to 12 volts to run the new noctua fans that i'm going to install right after we're done buttoning up this so let's go ahead and try to do this live with you and dial it back so you can see what i'm doing okay now what we're going to do is power this back on should see both of these light up now this one you're not going to see light up you saw a flash there well that's because that only comes on after the first layer is done but we're going to go ahead and do this one so now we got that at 12 volts be careful not to touch anything else under here now i'm going to go over to my computer and i'll turn this fan on via my raspberry pi via my octa-print that i've got installed and you'll see this light come on see now that one's on and i'll go ahead and do the same thing with it we'll dial it in the same way down to 12 volts there you can see we got them down down to 12 volts there hope you see that so they're both dialed down to 12 volts now we can power it back off snap our little covers on now under here they wouldn't necessarily need covers because they're this whole thing is a housing [Applause] sure does look professional though doesn't it now that's a nice clean neat wearing job there i don't care who you are that's clean and neat now we can button up the bottom end we're done all right our last mod we're going to do on this machine for today and we're going to call this video wrap is we're going to replace these fans with some noctua fans and we're going to replace this bowdoin tube with some capricorn bowden tube which is a much better bowden tube than this can handle temperature better so we're going to pull this out and put some new stuff in first things first let's remove this cover it's just the two screws i believe here we'll go ahead and remove this fan as well now what i'm doing is i'm bringing this hot end up i've got all the fans disconnected right now bringing the hot end up to uh 200 degrees so i can take that tip out and remove the bowden tube we're at about 147 right now we'll let it get on up to temp and since we don't have a fan on here cooling things we don't want to let it get over temp either now having me a brand new capricorn kit which has all the fittings and everything inside that i need now you should be able to fit this all the way through it should slide all the way through like that no problems you want to take the provided cutter and cut it to make sure you got a nice square in now what i'm going to do is screw a new tip up in here i'll take it up till it bottoms out just like that and we'll back it off about a half to three quarters of a turn there then i'm going to take my brand new capricorn tube and shove down in here against it while it's at temperature and we'll put our lock in place push down real tight it's good and tight then what we'll do is we'll turn that tip back up tight against that tube what that does is that puts that nice beautiful flat square bottom you got there and puts it tight against that face of that now we can go ahead and turn the temperature off we'll let her cool down what that did is now everything's set same with some type you got the capricorn tube tied up against that tip that's very important to do the one thing i didn't like about this original capricorn or this original tubing that came on here it was all kinds of weird twisted bin look at that it's kind of weird twisted didn't have a nice smooth bend to it like this is going to have when i'm done because then i'll tie the wires up to it it's going to look a little nicer not that i like the long bowden tube but if you're going to have to have a long bowden tube make sure it's a capricorn it's just a more accurate tube now i'm going to go ahead and take this fitting off the extruder as well and put the new capricorn the one that came with my capricorn kit okay now it's time to wire up the fans to the wires that are coming from the bottom end that we did all that uh butt converter work on now the easy way to remember this folks is the red and the red and the black from down below go to the lower fan because this is the fan that's on all the time and this is hooked directly to the power to the motherboard and is on all the time when we flip the switch on this fan is going to come on the blue and the yellow are going to go to the upper fan now to try to remember which one the blue and the yellow hook to on the black and the red this is what i use to remember it is that this is going to be silly but red yellow you know in crayon world red and yellow make orange black and blue makes a bruise anyway we're gonna go ahead and solder these wires all together put the heat streak tube on put this back over it hook it to the bowden tube with some zip ties and this build will be complete [Music] well i haven't i haven't put all this back on yet but i've got it soldered so i've done it right this fan should come on just like that it did and then when i go and turn it on at the computer i should be able to cycle that one on just like that the fan is on now the noisiest fan i've got is down underneath here cooling the power supply and i may have to address that but not today today i want to get back up and printing so we're going to go ahead and power it off and finish tidying up these wires [Music] all righty we got it back in its home spot where it's gonna where it does all this printing magic we're gonna power it on power it on one more time now and home it heat it up re-home it we're level the bed twice i like the level of bed while it's hot uh and then we're gonna get after some more printing all right she's all running again now the noisiest thing on it is the fan on the power supply i'll bet y'all be upgrading that to a knock to a quiet fan pretty soon for sure for sure looks like everything's printing pretty good so far can't complain there it's nice and quiet up top no waning it's a job well done now now i'm just printing off a couple of these little buck converter housings just to see how it turns out make sure everything fits and i'll print me a bunch more because i didn't realize i was going to use up the 10 that i had over these last few machines but i'll see you guys might say these buck converters are just uh you don't need to use as many as you're using well that's the way i want to do it so i'm doing it that way you can do it your own way with your own machine i guess huh hope you guys enjoyed this video it's been a lot of fun we got this thing wirelessly connected to my computer now it's met all the upgrades i think the only upgrade i got left to do will look a lot like this it'll go right up here it's a micro micro swiss all metal hot end about the complete kit i think i'll do that next so you guys stay tuned to part three of the ender five series videos and you'll get to see how converting this to a direct drive works basically you're taking the stepper motor that's over here and we're going to move it over here and the bowden tube then is just strictly a feeder tube to let the to help guide the uh filament through to the direct drive so far this seems to be working fantastic i like it we're going to do a lot of printing and before i do the direct drive though i got a lot of printing i want to get done on this machine now let's see how it does so far so good i like it well folks i hope you find that helpful i hope you found this enjoyable to watch i did have to do one thing and i'll tell you what it is on the stepper that when i put this all together the extruder was running backwards yes that sort of you said heard correct here if you didn't watch it already here you're going to struggle and you're going to wish you to watch my video all the way to the end possibly because the extruder motor was running backwards no joke and there's ways to update it and fix it you can do it in the firmware i didn't find anything on youtube with this issue and uh i thought it was quite quite strange but i figured it out because they had stuff on youtube that showed reversing a blue and a red wire just one of the phases to make it work and guess what on these realities there are no blue and red wires hooked to these um stepper motors or the drivers on the motherboard so what i did i pulled the let me show you let me show you let's go to the whiteboard here i'm going to show you something just draw you a little picture here so you have your little plug and it has four connections your wires are coming off and one of these wires had the little band around that said e for extruder right so it said on there to swap a red and a blue wire well these wires are all black they have a little mark hash marks on them little deals on them and stuff like that anyway what i did is i tried just swapping these two and basically you get underneath that little white metal that little white clip and you can hold it open just a little bit and you can slide these wires out and swap them so i did that all the motor did was just stutter a little bit so then i swapped it back going okay i'm gonna screw something up but then i decided well maybe i'll swap these two i'll swap those around and same thing like what's going on here so then i got to do some more research couldn't find anything else i'm like oh what the hell let's just try something so i swapped that one and i swapped that one so they're opposite of the way they were from the factory so this one became this one this one became this one same way over here this one became this one this one became this one i swapped the wires lo and behold it's running in the right direction now and it's printing it's working just fine because when i first fired it up the extra filament was going backwards and pulling it out instead of going the right way i thought well that's really strange so something about the 4.2.7 board and the firmware that you can download from reality that has extruder motor motor for the inner fives backwards anyway that's that's the way i fixed it because i don't i'm not good at any firmware yet i haven't learned a lot about that someday maybe just not today and i want to get my machine running and that was one of the easiest ways to get it running the firmware is also the the easy way and it's actually the more preferred way but the machine doesn't know any difference right now it just knows electrical signals are electrical signals and now they're just going backwards which is going forwards doesn't matter alrighty well that's it for the ender five upgrades for for the moment uh i think i've got just about everything done on it i want to do to it other than the all metal hot in and direct drive i've got the i've got all the quiet fans up here i've got the raspberry pi i've got all this bracing support strain reliefs all that stuff's put in place uh it's working pretty fantastic actually right now so we're gonna call it a day there and i hope you guys had fun watching this video i hope you enjoyed it give me a thumbs up hit the subscribe button if you want to see other videos coming up after this and don't be afraid to use those links down below to go get your products and the exact same products i used to to do all this stuff with um everything everything literally everything that i used in this video will be in the links below that you can buy the same things to do the same thing same uh upgrades as i did if i if i seem to have missed something if you guys saw something in the video you'd like to see hey what's this what's that want a link to it don't be afraid to throw it in the comments i try to read every one of my comments and i try to answer every comment um it gets to be a little busy sometimes but i try to get to them sometimes it's not the same day or the same hour you do it but within a less than a week i'll get to it and i'll put some information out there i try to get to it sooner than i usually check it about every day for comments well folks that's it for this one i'm out i'm michael i'm michael and i'm out [Music] um [Music] um [Music] you
Info
Channel: RM3D Creations
Views: 11,464
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: Creality, 3D, printing, design, PLA, ABS, parts, creation, unboxing, ender, ender 3 V2, V2, create, learn, develope, how to, DIY, bearings, Thingiverse, printed parts, upgrades, soldering, wiring, raspberry pi, pie, cana kit, wireless, connection, Noctua, Fan, Buck Converter, pet fang, 4.2.7, 4.2.2, Silent board, broken, filament feeder, raspberry fan, All Metal Extruder, dual gear extruder, Fusion 360, Calibration, Extruder, under extruding, Clocks, time, CR10 V3, bowden tube, washer, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5
Id: sh2bb1uKuuw
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 50min 33sec (3033 seconds)
Published: Fri May 14 2021
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