Time To Make My Old Ender 5 WAY Better With This HUGE Upgrade!

the creality Ender 5 has been one of my favorite printers since I started 3D printing but they've been just sitting on my shelves for the last couple years because newer and better things have come along it's time to change that I'm going to turn one of my Crea Ender FS into a core XY Beast my name's Jim and this is the Ed of tech so I recently got the Ender 5 Core XY kit from 3D fused this thing is a all aluminum machined Beast of a kit all you have to do is basically take off everything off the top of the printer and Bolt the kit on so in this video that's what we're going to do just a quick heads up though this will only be the mechanical part of this assembly I'm going to walk step by step into how to take everything off or what to take off and then how to put it all back together with the brand new Ender 5 Core XY kit again from 3D fused it is actually not that bad to do maybe like an hour of time if if you're not filming and I'm pretty sure just about any of us who have an Ender five could actually make it happen this will be the first video in a couple video series in the next video I'll focus on the firmware to get this thing Rock and rolling but I figured that the assembly video is going to be long enough for now so let's start there so in the kit you see an extrusion all of the mounts you need right here the belts you need three linear rails as you can see right here I didn't unpackage them yet uh looks like some oil for our line your rails I'm guessing and also all of the bolts and screws and everything else you'll need uh all right here the looks like poliy everything you need it all comes in this kit to make this happen so the first step in this process is to get rid of everything that's on the top extrusions here except your corner brackets here uh you don't want to get rid of your corner brackets but um the end stops the belts the uh Gantry here all of that stuff stuff's got to go and it's not too bad I have my T handles my trusty T handles set here I'm going to spin this around so you can see we do need to take off uh this cable right here just pull it out carefully that needs to go down this one in the back here needs to drop down these two need to come out so those those can drop down I need to cut this zip tie clearly I forgot to cut the end of it anyway I'm going to take out my bden tube but I'm going to take it out from this side so it can it can go with a hot end there now what we have is a completely clean top area all we have is the corner brackets in the four corners and of course your Z sitting right here um if I turn it sideways you can see a little better so your Z is still sitting here everything else is clean up here and now we can start the assembly so step number two is installing our uh motor mount lower brackets in the rear of the machine so this is the rear of the machine I got the two motor brackets here along with the m5x 12 mm uh bolts and M5 T nuts right here so I have both motor mounts the way they're going to be sitting on the back frame right here and I have six M5 x 12 bolts and six M5 t- nuts so what we need to do is identify that we need to put in uh bolt in three one two three of the plates here we're going to skip this one because there's a frame bolt there and it's not going to allow us to put one there so we're going to do one two 3 if you flip that over you can screw your teenut on if you flip that over you can put your te- nuts on and then line them up the way they're going to be in the Extrusion so let me get this last one on here so they go on uh much easier than this normally I just keep dropping everything today uh pretty much I drop everything all the time okay so they're going to sit straight here and one sideways and then the next thing we're going to do is just we're going to set them on the rail like that so once they're on the rail you want to make sure they're nice and uh flush make sure all your angles here are good and I'm going to spin around and give you a good view of that so when you're putting these re brackets on you want to make sure everything is flush in the back here and in the side just make sure they're sitting on there really nicely take your M3 o wrench or te handle whatever you're using and and just spin those te- nuts in so you feel them catch once they have caught we just want to make sure we're not moving anything because they will move when you start tightening these in so make sure everything is still flush it's nice and tight against there and in this case mine shifted a little bit and just tighten them down like that and go ahead and jump to the other side and do the same thing so this next step we're going to work with the linear rails and we need to get them out and get them cleaned up so I have uh cut them here here is two of them here and I need to get them out and getting cleaned up I don't like the oil all over myself so I am going to grab a couple of gloves I suggest you do the same thing as well but uh it's totally up to you I prefer gloves to to not get the oils all over me and I got a pretty good size cut on my index finger right now that is not required to have oil in it so something you want to make sure is these little black caps stay in because you don't want this coming off that will be a mess but they do come really greased up right now and we just we need to get them all cleaned up before we get them mounted in The Next Step so I'm going to put these here o there's a little black cap we do I do not want to mess around I have accidentally dropped one of the carriages off these before all the barings went flying and it was not a great so I'm going to clean all three of these and how I'm going to do that is I'm just going to take some paper towel just make sure there's not excess stuff all over them for the next step we're going to take some of the linear rails we just uh cleaned and also some uh M3 by8 bolts and M3 T nuts uh we are going to take one of these bolts and put it through like this and on the back side you need to take a teut but once you have it attached like that you should see it's on there and we need to do that for every hole in the linear rail now you can see I got three linear rails done I just went ahead and did all three putting the screws and the te- nuts in be very careful now cuz this can slide off the end if you're not careful so don't let that happen we're going to start putting these uh linear rails two of them on right now let me show you how that works so I'm going to start with the left side of the machine as you're looking at it right here and we just want to go through and make make sure all of your te- nuts are faced the same way so they go into the Extrusion so they're all faced the same way and then we're going to push that on and wiggle it in so it's in there and then you want to push it all the way up against your plate that we just put on in the previous step and now you have some wiggle room and that's not great so before we do anything uh Cody actually includes uh these 3D printed centering tools uh so Cody over at 3D fused uh created these to make this step easier and sometimes they might not go on and Center Great these actually fit really nice and they keep them nice in center but you can see there's a Groove here this goes over the uh actual rail this sits on the Extrusion and holds it in place and you just want to take and put that right on the rail now if this does not fit on the rail and I like to do this about two in so you have two here and two here to start because you want to I like to start from the ends and kind of work my way in when I put rails on like this but if these do not fit you can reprint them at 102% and they will slide on a little bit better and you can actually have a little more room to play with these fit really nice they're tight but they're good and they're going to keep everything centered so that holds your rail in place the next thing we need to do is just grab our trusty uh tea handle or all wrench whatever you want to use and start zipping a couple of these in and just make sure those te- nuts grab um I'm going to start by spinning them and make sure they grab first like that and then I'm actually going to come back here and tighten them down now if you want to do this with a regular allen wrench that's fine if you want to do it with an allen driver that's K2 but I'm just going to make sure that there we go these four here are tight now and this is the uh 2 and A2 mm uh that I'm using here so now I can push these back a little bit like this and you can just start working your way in from each side I like to go here here here here just to keep it straight in there you'll move your um you'll move this back and forth to get around the screws just make sure all of them are tight and then do the other side side the same way do the right side the same way and then we'll go on to the next step now we can see I have both rails on here if you slide these they slide really nicely really good all of the uh screws are tightened down and it's pushed against our plates here like I said we use these cool centering tools to get them centered and you always want to print two of these one for the front and the back if you want to go overboard print one for the center too for the next step we're going to need two of the Y mounts these are the lower y mounts and and you can tell that they're lower because they have a bunch of threaded pieces also counter sunk holes I know that's kind of hard to see I don't know if I can uh zoom in there we go so you can see that there's threaded pieces here and then these are counter sunk so that is going to be your lower Mount and they will go on just like this if you mistake them for the upper mounts they look identical but they don't have any of the counter sunk holes in them just know that the counter sunk ones with the shiny threads go on the bottom y when you're mounting these and where they go is right like that and right like that on the linear rail right where on this sled here and you're going to use uh m3x six these right here you're going to use the m3x six bolts to screw those in so let's do that now so I'm working on this side first and I did the first second and third I'm about to do the fourth uh bolt right now these are the m3x sixes now I put them all in but I did not tighten them I didn't do that cuz I want to make sure it's in there good and then I will tighten the corners like that like that so I tighten these two corners and then I'm going to tighten these two corners and then I'm going to go on the other side on the left side over there and do that one too next we're going to install our y AIS Extrusion which is the Extrusion that came with it and we need uh M5 by 12s we need four of those and four of the M5 T nuts how how that's going to work is we are going to use these two holes on each side the right and the left we're going to take our screw our M5 by12 and push that up take our t- nut and uh slip that on and just make sure that it's on there there we go just like that we're going to do that same thing for the second hole on this side and also we're going to do that on the left side of the machine as well so get these two in get the same ones on the other side done and we'll we put the Extrusion on in a second so this is where we need to put our uh y Extrusion on here so what you need to do is line up your t- nuts so they're straight and they can go into that Extrusion and this is very important we want to push both of these sleds all the way to the back of the machine so they are um straight from each other across there we want to make sure our y Extrusion is as straight as possible so then once you have it on there you're going to take and drop that on like this this and you want to make sure if you can that this is lined up this way so it's the same amount of space here as it is over here it might take you a minute to readjust but just make sure that is I'm actually going to measure with a millimeter ruler and just make sure I'm very close and I'll give you that measurement in a second from underneath you're going to grab your all wrench or te- handle whatever you're using you're going to hold the Extrusion and you're just going to spin those t- nuts up into place so so make sure that they connect make sure they're seating you just want to get all four of the bolts and t-nuts secured inside uh make sure they're not all the way tight yet cuz you might have to shift this back and forth so I got these snugged on but not tight enough where I could move it back and forth and I grabbed a millimeter ruler like this and when I hold it against here I found myself that 26 mm on each side was centered uh it should be the same for everybody I think but uh on mine I got 26 mm on each side and it's kind of hard to show that but uh yeah just 26 mm on each side so this space is the same on both sides once you get it there tighten the four t-nuts up and make sure this is nice and tight so we are at a crucial part of the install where you might have to readjust this a couple times to make sure that these are exactly straight across and you'll know just like this one if it's not because it will make it will make a bad sound it'll be really hard to move it's just not real smooth you can't flick it or anything like that that tells me that this is skewed a little bit what I need to do is loosen the four bolts underneath and just make sure that these sleds are literally straight across from each other then it should slide nice and tight so I'm going to go ahead and loosen all four readjust a little bit now I'm not going to completely loosen them down just a little bit just just to adjust so I want to get this fixed so it slides nice and easy back and forth you have to spend time doing this otherwise the whole machine's not going to function great so I'm troubleshooting this and what I did was I loosened both sides so it will move it'll it'll really move like that but it's not completely loose you don't want it to break free from the uh rail here but then what I did is slid it back and forth a few times and I tried to keep it as straight as I can just so it kind of loosens itself on the rail what I think happened is I had them pulling too far in when I tightened it and it was pulling the rails hard like inwards so I gave it a couple slides now be very careful that you don't go off the end of the rail with your sled if that goes off the end of the rail you have bearings everywhere it's not a fun mess to clean up so give it a couple slides like that I'm going to tighten it back up now and we'll see how it is well that took me a little bit of time like 20 minutes of trying and trying again to get them to go good but now they slide really nice and I'm going to go with that so on to the next step for the next steps what you need is a couple of Nema 17 Motors and they do sell them on their website at 3D fused otherwise you can grab a couple wherever you need to um I like to get the ones that come with a kit but I did not do that this time so I actually had these two uh brand new laye in a box so I'm going to use these two Nema 17 Motors along with the 3D printed uh spacer we're going to need that and the two poliy and that's what we're going to do next we're actually going to put these poliy onto the stepper Motors using this tool so the best way to show you this is we're going to do the right side first and you notice there's like this little island on my stepper motor yours might not have that but we're going to take the uh right side with there's a right and a left and we're going to do right side first if you see right and left right there the right side is thinner so we're going to take that and we're going to put it uh on the stepper motor right on top of that Island if yours doesn't have the island put it right on the face of the stepper this is the flat spot of the stepper motor it's facing me you can kind of see that we're g to take part of the grub screw um put it flat down on that flat spot this first grub screw that way it is uh going to be tightened in to where it's flat then we're going to push that down on the spacer so it looks something like that you want to make sure that it is properly spaced so keep the spacer in there keep some pressure on there and then grab your allen wrench or whatever you're going to use and you just want to tighten that in so it's nice and tight against the flat spot of that shaft once you're tight don't overdo it don't strip it but make it tight once you got that one done spin it over and tighten this one in and your spacer should sit right there with little to no movement so you know you're in there good if it's too tight you know you're too close to the bottom here and if it's way too loose you know that you need to press it down a little more against there now that we got the uh right side done we're going to do the the same thing on the left side but we're going to use the side of the model that says left which is thicker so we're going to hold that there we're going to take the front face of the shaft and put it towards us we're going to push this down against it like I did before and uh I'm not going to do it on camera but I'm just going to tighten that in just like that against the left side so in doing both of these I found that it's easier if you hold it like this sandwich that spacer in there and then tighten it in that way you know it's nice and tight but I kind of found that that's the fastest easiest way to do this and I can actually do it on camera when I do it like this so that's the best way to do it make sure you're nice and tight and move on to the next step so for the next step what we need is M3 by10 uh bolts here we need our mounts and our Motors that we just did and you want to make sure you know which one's left and which one's right so the thinner one remember is right side so this one's going to be our right side one and I'm going to take the cable and I'm going to face it um down like this so it's faced me because when this is done it'll be flipped upside down and I'm not sure exactly where which way we want this cable facing but I think I want it facing out and then I'm going to take this and mount it this way so when this is upside down it's going to flip up like this on that back mount on the right side and our cable will be out this way and everything will match up that way so if you take note on the right side I'm going to do facing me and that way on the left side I'm going to do just the mirror opposite just like that so facing me the angles should be in I believe this is the way we should be doing this take your M3 by10 screws and do 1 2 3 four on each side into this Mount we'll go straight through into the motor in the four screws so there'll be eight total and we'll be right back so we got them both mounted uh all eight screws are in I know this is right and this is left because this Poley is shorter than that one and we're going to move on to the next steps something I want to make sure you don't do is overtighten these uh just get them too tight maybe a little bit past tight you don't want to overtighten you don't want to strip these out so I just want to point that out so on to the next step step number eight future gym here I mounted these on backwards and I need to fix them so I thought I had it figured out out but I was wrong so what these need to do is this plate needs to match this plate the two holes here and the three holes here need to match when that motor is sitting upside down like this so really what we need is our motor mounted like this on the right side so here's the cable here here's the two holes and the three holes so if you can see that upside down it looks like facing U is the angle this is the cable plug two holes and three holes that way when you flip it upside down like this to mount it it actually matches your bottom plate so that was my mistake I'm going to fix this one and check the other one and then move on to the next step for the next step we're going to need uh three of the red spacers they're calling them red they're not red they're uh not they're aluminum and then three of the m5x 45 bolts and we're actually going to mount this on the back right side so let's do that so now we need to mount the motor on the mount on the right side so uh what I'm going to do is take the three what they call red tubes and put them right there so one in the center here two on the ends and then I'm going to attempt to set down my motor right on top of them and you can do this however you want this is just the way I'm trying on film here and then I'm going to put the screws down through those tubes in each of the corners and in the center it is threaded on the bottom so it should sit in there nicely and then uh grab your allen wrench or or whatever you're using uh te handle in my case like I've said so then when you're tightening these in do a little bit of each one at once to make sure you're not cross threading and then once they're all three started then you can just uh go to town and tighten them down for the next part of this assembly we're going to need three of the smooth pulley right here we're going to need the purple spacer which I believe is the smaller one and a blue spacer which is the taller one along with two m5x 45 bolts so this is a a shot from the rear now this is our motor we just put this on I'm going to start on the right side here and we're going to feed our uh bolt down like this we're going to put it into a smooth pulley like that and then into what they're calling the blue I believe pulley and I'm just going to feed it all the way down and that's going to get screwed in on that one on the outside one here we need our uh m5x 45 we need two pulley in a row so we're going to push this in one pulley two pulley I know it's kind of tricky to see and also kind of tricky to film but um so we got two poliy in there I'm going to squeeze uh another what they're calling the purple spacer in there and it'll look something like that so on the outside small spacer two smooth poliy then we have a long spacer here A big one and then on this side we're going to have the uh larger of the two spacers and a pulley in the top grab your Allen and then just tighten those in they should thread right down to the bottom and you can tighten them in right away just like that and then we can go on to the left side so on the left side if you're facing the machine this is your left side so on the back end here we're going to do the same thing I'm going to take three uh what they're calling red spacers the longest ones and put them in that orientation right there kind of a triangle I'm going to take my motor making sure the three here three here match up and the two in the back and then I'm going to grab uh three of my m5x 45 and just slide them in so they go into those spacers and just like we did on the other side I'm going to tighten those in so from the back angle we're going to do the same thing like we did the other side except for these py going a little different so these are going to take the three smooth poliy then they're going to take two of the blue ones one two and then one new one which is the shortest one yet called yellow on the outside of the machine here we're going to put our bolt in we're going to slide it into two of the poliy and then you'll see it like that and then we need one of the blue spacers underneath so it should look like that and you can start those by hand to make them stay if you want to just like that on this side it gets a little more tricky we're going to take our m5x 45 we're going to come down and we're going to go into the smallest one which is uh yellow then we need our uh pulley underneath that and then a blue underneath that so when you're done with this one if I can get it started so it stops wobbling when you're done with this one it'll look something like that so these two here should line up when you're done we have blue po poly and we have blue poy yellow just like that so in the next step we're going to work on the top plates for our y AIS H and we're going to do this to both of these plates first before we go any further grab your M5 x 12 bolts and the M5 T nuts and put those in um it's going to be just like this this is what you want to see make sure it's in this orientation the t-nuts are on the bottom cuz this is going to be the left side and this is going to be the right side so on the left side here we're going to use the uh part that goes up like this and it's going to sit on here like this um also we're going to use the green spacers and don't worry I'm saying all these colors they're not colored but all of these are uh labeled right here so you know which one which when you get the packages they look like this we're also going to use the M5 by3 bolts like this one here so the first thing I want to do is drop our uh te- nuts into the Extrusion and make sure they're sitting in there nicely like that and I'm also going to put uh one of the green spacers right there and I'm going to put a bolt in this one right away because uh I think this one's going to move yeah it's it's moving all over so I'm going to put my uh bolt in here to hold that just like that and I'm actually going to get that started like that and then I'm going to go on the other side here on the corner right over here and put that green one in there and push it down through your spacer and get that that one started as well so what we have here is a bolt a bolt and two green spacers and our te- nuts right here I'm going to tighten all that down and we're going to come back and do the rest so I have all of these tight and you can see that there's two more spots that we can put uh anything in there and we're going to do the Poley thing like we did last time but we're going to use the M5 by3 here we're going to take a smooth Poley like we used before and we're going to push this through and not drop it we're going to push it through onto the pulley and then we're going to take one of our yellow spacers which is one of the little ones and we're going to put it right underneath and I know this is kind of hard to see with my fingers here but it's going to look like that so tighten it in a little bit fingertight so we have yellow smooth pole bolt going through on this back one here we're actually going to do something different it's going to be one of the teethed pulley here I believe this is is a 20t pulley is what it said we're going to set that uh on the bottom we're going to take one of our yellow spacers and put that in there hopefully like that and we're going to drive one of those bolts right down in and kind of wiggle it around until it all matches up like that so it should look like uh one of your teeth pulley here a yellow spacer and and the bolt and then we're going to tighten both of these up this is the right side now we need to start with putting our te- nuts in the Extrusion and then we are going to take our uh green spacers and do one there and one over here so it'll look like that and this is in the first one on this side and the only one on that side we're going to take a couple of our m5x 30 bolts we're going to go down in I like to get it started so it stops wobbling so much get this side in get these two tightened up and your te- nuts and we'll come back for the pulley in the center we're going to do the pulley on the bottom we're going to do the uh yellow on top of that carefully and you can stack them if you prefer to slide them in like that and then uh your M5 by I believe what 30 down through so it looks something like that now I'm looking at the front right here of the right side and we're going to do a spacer and a tooth Poley just like you see there put your uh bolt down through those and tighten that in now we're going to tighten both of those and move on to the next step now we're going to work on the linear rail that goes along right here we're going to make sure all of our t-nuts are aligned we're going to set it on there just like that and we're going to use our centering tools to go on here like that and like that we'll hold those there and I need to get these tightened in but I also need to measure the distance between here and here to make sure that that is the same because you don't want this off to one side or this way to one side you want to make sure it's pretty dead center I think I'm close but I am going to measure my distance here um probably between this plate here and this plate uh and this plate here and just make sure we're centered and then I'm going to tighten all those in like we did the other two rails so what I'm doing is I'm taking a metal uh millimeter ruler and I'm measuring between uh the linear rail here and the end of this um Extrusion and on mine if I push it in here on both sides from here to here I got 30 32 mm so I can come right in from the side like that and I can measure to the end on both sides and I I centered it at 32 mm from the end of the linear rail to each end of the Extrusion and now I'm going to tighten all these in I did spin a couple of these in so it's holding it is not secured at this time but it's just holding enough so I can still slide it around but now it's time to tighten those up don't forget to put your your centering tools back on uh you should have one on each side before you fully tighten this in you want to make sure that linear rail is centered so put these back on make sure they're centered then tighten up next we're going to mount our X Carriage up here so we need the plate and it needs to go in this orientation so the four bolts will be like that right there uh you kind of have this slit on this side and the opening on that side we're going to use uh four of of the M3 by8 screws and then we're going to screw two of these little tiny standoffs um like that into the front of the plate when we're done so we're going to mount that up like this and put the two standoffs in there and we'll be right back when we're done with the X Carriage you should see the four bolts and the two standoffs just like that and we're good to go now we need to build the left belt tensioner and uh in the left belt tensioner we need this piece here the tensioner piece we need two of the orange spacers they called orange we need a uh smooth pulley here we also need two t-nuts that are M4 and we need two m4x 20 bolts and then we need this one right here this is the uh the bottom part of the mount and on the left side we're actually going to use the smaller of the two you can see there's a difference so we're going to put the larger of the two aside and on the left side we're going to use the smaller of the two so the first thing we need to do is take our bottom piece and put the two orange spacers in and these are going to need to be pressed in so what I'm going to do is grab something uh that can lay flat or that's hard and I'm going to press these down in so they're flush and they should be in there nice and flush when we're done so I'm going to do that I'll be right back now that I got that pressed in we can proceed how I got it pressed in was I took this chunk of wood here and I put it on the ground and I just tapped in each one individually until they got all the way in that's how I pressed them in I'm not sure if they're supposed to be that tight or not but that's what I had to do on mine so now we need to put everything together we're going to take the piece we just pressed we're going to take this tensioner part on top of there so it's going to sit on there like this and then we're going to put our bolts down through it so it looks like I got a little rough with my mounting piece and I cracked it um so I'm going to reach out to Cody and get a different one but it should look like that and then we'll put the te- nuts on the bottom and that's the tricky part there we go and so once you get the teen nuts on the bottom there's only one more thing we need to do before we actually put this on the machine and we'll go over that in one second so there you go everything's mounted on here the te nuts are on there everything's good but we need to get this pulley in so to get the pulley in we need to remove this screw here so grab a grab a larger whoa a much larger uh grab a larger allen wrench slide that up like that Poley should go in the center like that it's kind of hard hard to show and hold and film but it should sit in there and then just put your screw down through the PO like we've done a bunch of times and screw that back in like that so that's how it should look and now it's time to mount it looking at the machine this is the left side straight on so I'm looking at it this is my left we're going to put the tensioner down in like that and we're just going to tighten up the te- nuts there we go so the tensioner is in like this we're going to hold it there we're going to grab our allen wrench and just tighten up these te- nuts to make sure it locks in nice and tight and you want to make sure that it's pushed up against your linear rail all the way you don't want it to be real loose or anything like that but get your uh t- nuts tightened down and we're going to go do the other side for the left side we're going to use the larger of the two printed Parts the purple spacers m4x 30 and the M14 nuts uh one of the smooth poliy and the tensioner and we're going to put this together exactly how we did the left side and then we're going to mount it on the right side I'm not going to show you that because it's identical to what we did before it's just using these parts instead so we're going to do that and we'll be right back now you can see we have both the left and the right poliy on they're good to go they're nice and sturdy from here we start installing our belts So the instructions are pretty good showing you how to route these belts but I wanted to show you a couple things real quick here um number one when you put your belt on it should the teeth should be facing you you'll put it into the back of the lower uh little slit here in our hotend Carriage like that then you'll take a zip tie you'll make sure a bunch of teeth are locked together here and zip tie that bad boy in so that ain't going anywhere now and then we can route it so it comes this way so your belt will come straight this way and it'll actually go behind this uh wheel right here and it's going to be on the lower section so when that when you route it this way it'll be on the lower section I am just going to try to spin this thing around and show us hopefully this works out so we get to here and you can see I came through the center here I came around and it catches our uh rear right pulley here and and it kind of folds around the back on this side you can see it's kind of hard to see but it follows this all the way here sorry if it's out of focus it goes in here it goes into the center where our our motor pulley is and it's going to go around that motor pulley and then back out and around this one so there's like a loop in here and the diagram in the instructions is very good it shows this it loops around the motor with the pulley comes back out out right here and then travels along the whole side here of the left side of the machine goes around our belt tensioner right [Applause] there and then once it spins around the belt tensioner it'll come around that's hard to show you I'm sorry um so once it's right here around the belt tensioner it'll come right here it'll go behind the tooth Poley right over here see if I can show that better it'll go yeah there you go so it'll come down here around the tensioner behind this tooth Poley and then to the right it attaches to the bottom left side of our Carriage right there sorry if any of that was out of focus I'm trying to walk you around the machine and it's kind of tough to do uh um in this fashion something to note make sure your tensioner is all the way loose when you do this because you're going to want to be able to put tension on it um and so you want to make sure it's all the way loose so not to the right you want to screw it out like this as far as it goes when you do this I'm working on the top belt and I wanted to show you a really quick trick that I learned to Route these belts so this belt needs to come around this Poley and when I push it through here it just wants to go straight through to this side it doesn't want to curl around that Poley but if you stick a zip tie in there then push your belt through it'll actually pull it right around that Poley just like that and then you can continue uh pulling it through the path so that's a really quick tip to use a zip tie push it in then push your belt behind it and it'll come right through so I have the top one mounted and I wanted to show you how I secure it to the top of the Carriage here like I talked about so I pushed it through the back hole and I'm just going to spin it around uh about an inch maybe and there's plenty of belt here there's way plenty of belt here to do this so spin it around about an inch and then pinch it like that when you do that take one of your zip ties and and get it started in a loop if I could grab it that'd be amazing there we go excuse my uh finger there there we go so I got it started in a loop on the on this belt only by the way I'm going to pull it through and this side isn't that big a deal because we're going to tighten it on the other side so I'm just going to pull it through here and I'm going to start squeezing my zip tie and I'm going to bring it over towards the carriage like that make sure my teeth are meshed up so they're locking you want to make sure those teeth are locking together like that you don't want it wide open or anything like that and then pull your zip tie nice and tight that will keep the teeth locked that will keep those teeth locked together and that's not coming out so then once you got it nice and tight just grab your cutter uh a side cutter flush cutter whatever you want to call it cut that off and if you want to trim your belts you can trim your belts as well I'm going to do that at uh I'll probably do that later but not not right now so then all we have to do is pull that nice and tight like that we're going to make sure it's routed properly and then I'm going to mount the other side here so on the other side I pulled it through and I'm actually going to pull it tot this time and I'm going to hold it there and I'm just going to grab my uh Allen and I'm just going to grab that uh zip tie and do the exact same thing make sure it's only around that belt get the loop started I guess I can't pull it that tight when I have to get this Loop started uh but that's okay that's that's the fun of learning there we go then we're going to pull it tight I'm going to slide it through the loop like we did on the other side but I um but the trick is on this side you want to make sure it's tight because you want you don't want this thing way too loose because otherwise your belts are going to be way too loose and you're going to have to re loosen this up and and start over so make sure this side's tight we are going to use tensioners but there you go I zipped it in the teeth are locking everything's good I'm just going to cut that off and our belts are now ran so how the top belt is ran it starts in the top of the slot here comes around our toothed gear here comes over to our tensioner on the right side then it goes straight all the way back here and it's actually just going to wrap around and it's actually going to come around here it's going to wrap around back through here around the gear that's on your motor and then come back so it's going to loop back here and then come back around this side then go all the way around the back and you can see it just wraps around here comes comes around this side just makes a turn right here and then connects to the carriage so the the diagrams that are on the instructions are very good for this but you can use this as kind of a reference just make sure your bottom is following all the pulley on the bottom and your top is falling all the pulley on the top so I just wanted to jump in while we're doing the belts to show you that you get absolutely plenty of belt to make this happen there's enough on here to probably make if I'm going to guess I I bet you could make at least two full sets of belts but if you do accidentally cut it too short or cut it wrong you actually get plenty and I mean plenty of extra belt in this 3D fused Ender five kid so thanks Cody I appreciate you sending some extra basically what I have here is two standoffs from the kit and this is the right side of the machine and we're going to put the Y limit switch here take two standoffs and screw them into the pre-drilled holes in the plate again this is the right side of the machine in the rear then we're going to take our limit switch um and it's going to basically be screwed down on those standoffs something like that so you're going to take two M 3x4 screws grab a hold of it and just just screw it right into the top of those standoffs and it should hold its place nicely put both of the screws in and now our y limit switch is installed so this is the best way for me to show you this uh where where this is sorry for the shakiness I'm trying to hold the camera as still as possible but this is the right side of the machine um so if you're looking at the machine this is also the right side this is underneath the Poley here so you put two standoffs in right there and right there and then you screw your uh one of your end stops right into it and you also have to bend the end stop connection downwards so it's facing down originally it faced backwards and it won't work because it's going to hit the machine but it's straight down here and it should just bend nicely um you can get these on Amazon pretty cheap if you break one but just be very careful but it should be able to bend and that's where it goes if I back it up you can see it's right there underneath the machine and if I go underneath you can kind of see how it's mounted there too so that's your X end stop and now we're on to the next step now we take the original creality Ender five hot end and it's going to mount right to these standoffs uh I just removed mine from the Gantry and uh it is right here this is the original I had I might change this out to like a micro Swiss or something like that I might as well because I'm really beefing this machine up but in this case I just want to show you that it'll mount on to those standoffs and you just want to make sure it's on there nice and tight and uh I'm even going to grab a different allen wrench here and just tighten those in a little bit so then this is the original fan assembly it can actually go and the the screws are here for it like that and it's all pre-mounted it's it's all pre-drilled and ready to go in my case I had this th3d easy a and I'm going to be uh using that again so what I need to do is uh push that all back together so now because I have the th3d easy a normally you could just screw that up there if you're just using the standard hot end and you're good to go in my case I need to put this uh fancy mount on here it is going to go in the same screw holes it's it's made for the Ender five it's going to go in the same screw holes right into the plate so I'll put this one in first and then I'm going to get this one started just to make sure I'm in the right spot I am so I can kind of push all that back so this will all get screwed in there it'll hold these two screws in and my easy abl will sit right in there if you want to check that out that's a th3d it's a it's for uh bed leveling and it's pretty dang awesome I prefer them so I'm just going to take I'm going to tighten these up real quick with this because my tea handle uh is acting up and I'll be right back so I thought I would do kind of an overview uh of how I have all the cabling currently um right now this is going to be kind of how it was like this um we're going to let that go down the end stop I'm going to go for the end stop on the side here for your excuse me for the X end stop I'm actually going to go underneath and then connect in uh maybe just actually I might just cable manage this underneath this Extrusion I just don't want it in the belts and I don't want it in our linear rails if we keep spinning this around uh we have this is how I ran the um y this is how I ran the Y end stop and I'm actually going to zip tie that down so it can't get in the way right there hopefully I'm showing this okay so the two Motors we have are just on the ends of the machine here and it doesn't really matter which one you plug in which cuz you're going to designate that in firmware I believe but I did X here I did uh w y over here and if you noticed I got this motor backwards so be careful as much as I was trying to be careful um I wanted this facing in and this one I have it on backwards so the cord let's see if I can show that better and this one I have on facing backwards s the cords out here I might um take it apart and spin it if not I'm going to just uh zip tie it right there that way this cable's out of the way but everything else is on here so a hard ends in all of our stuff's plugged back in and uh we just need firmware to get this thing flying and just like that the mechanical assembly of the 3D fused corxy kit is done for the Ender 5 as I just showed my cable management is kind of sloppy right now but that's just because I don't want to Cable tie this to the Bowden tube um so I'm going to come up with some better solution for that and I'm also going to come up with a better solution for the stepper motor down here or the stepper motor wire down here as well but there are some things that I really loved about putting this thing together number one I love projects and I love tinkering so if that is something that you like to do you're going to love this kit it is all machined aluminum it is super tough very durable and I mean this thing is probably stronger than the day it came from CRE for sure uh another thing that I really liked was the 3D printed guides the the guides to put your linear rails on and also for the motor spacing were just awesome that makes putting these things together so much easier and Cody really thought about that while he was designing this kit another thing is this 3D printing oil that I will be using to oil my linear rails now I think this is kind of a controversial thing with linear rails on how to oil them how not to oil them but this is his kit and he sent this oil and that's what I'm going to use on these linear rails uh I appreciate that because this is a full bottle and it's going to last a very long time because it's not like you're going to put this whole bottle on a linear rail or two or three so so thank you for including that Cody because I know a lot of us don't just have the stuff laying around in our shops so the stute watching might notice that this is a different printer than I started this video with this is my Ender five Pro it came uh from creality as a pro at the time and uh I used this one because I wanted to that's why so that's why it's different uh so if you're wondering why the color on like the screen or something is different that's why I just I changed I decided to do it on the pro version instead and now let's talk a little bit about why you might want to do this if if you have an Ender five laying around or an Ender five Pro or even an Ender five plus they have kits for that too uh the big reason is the whole motion system you're going to have a lighter Gantry because there's no motor up there driving it anymore the core XY system as we've seen in many printers in the last year just is it's so much faster and more reliable and I believe a lot of people would tell you it's more consistent especially if it's tuned right uh than the standard system that actually came on the Ender 5 I love loved the idea if that was all aluminum I like that it's durable and strong and it used almost almost all of the parts from the original build the only thing you're going to need is two Motors and they do need to be the Nea 17s and you can use one motor from the kit but the other motor that comes in the center of your Ender 5 has a shaft that goes through both sides and you can't use that so right on the product page it says to Source a couple Motors you could use one that came from the kit and just get one but jump on Amazon I'll put a link in the description below grab yourself a couple anema 17s even hit up ldo whatever you want to buy them at in my case I think it makes sense to match them uh just so you don't have a mismatch but I don't think it really matters as long as they're anema 17s uh but definitely check that out you're going to need a couple Motors to do this project so besides being lighter and faster and more durable um the other thing is that it's definitely more tunable I believe that this system is definitely more tunable than the stock system you're going to get more out of it I know it's going to cost you some money um but at the same time you're not starting over with the whole printer so you can do that you could Clipper IE this uh we haven't talked about firmware yet but that's a good idea I haven't done firmware yet um because I want to do another video on that so you could actually stick with Marlin firmware if you wanted to you could Clipper eyesee this and that's probably what I'm going to do because I think that's going to be awesome but there's many ways to do firmware and I'll do another video actually showing you how to do that but overall this kit is so nice you get so much value for the money uh that that I definitely suggest this kit it was such a fun build one more thing I want to talk about is that I know that 3D fused has been a little bit um slow lately but that's because they are a oneman shop and he's trying to do the best he can with uh getting parts especially the linear rails uh with some other big printers that have released lately a lot of companies are buying up a lot of linear rails so he's been a little bit behind on production as far as some of the other kits and stuff go but I have talked to Cody there are about 200 of these kits that are uh ready or just about ready when this video drops so you can rest assured that if you do order one of these kits for your Ender five or multiple Ender fives however you want to do it uh the kits are going to be ready they're going to ship fast and he's doing everything he can to make sure that this kit actually ships out in a very timely matter I again he's one man he's trying to do it all and uh he's been a little behind on some of the other stuff but I give them some slack because there's huge companies that are way behind on their manufacturing too so Cody keep up the great work I know you're a good dude I love your products uh I've used other ones in the past in other videos and this is just another great product from 3D fuse so there's going to be roughly around 200 of these kits ready to go when this video drops so if you want one grab one it will ship in a timely fashion and uh if not drop a comment in the video below and let me know that it didn't and I'll get on Cody myself no I'm joking Cody you're a good dude thank you so much for the kit this thing's awesome if you want to check out the kit there's a link in the description below again this was just the mechanical part firmware coming soon so stay tuned to that for like a part two we're going to rock that out I might even change the hot end on this so we might do a part three or a part 2.5 or something but stay tuned this thing's awesome check it out thank you guys for sticking with me this long in the video I really appreciate it on a build video and as always did you guys see this one

Channel: The Edge of Tech

Views: 17,927

Keywords: ender 5 upgrade, ender 5 pro, ender 5, ender 5 pro upgrades, ender 5 pro setup, ender 5 pro 3d printer, ender 5 pro assembly, ender 5 pro klipper, 3dfused linear rail kit, 3dfused linear rails, 3dfused corexy, 3dfused rail kit, 3di industries, 3di industries corexy kit, ender 5 upgrades, ender 5 voron, ender 5 pro voron, ender 5 voron conversion, 3d printer, 3d printed, 3d print, 3d printing, Time To Make My Old Ender 5 WAY Better With This HUGE Upgrade!

Id: XRpY6ng0qxY

Length: 57min 21sec (3441 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 22 2023