3d Print Bed Leveling for the Ender 5

I deserve shapiro with the dr. vex channel and today we're going to talk about leveling the bed of your 3d printer specifically leveling the bed of an Ender 5 how you do it why you do it and why it's important okay stay tuned and let's learn something together so [Music] before we go to the printer hands-on to look at leveling the bed I want to talk about the theory the reason for just a moment so if you look in the upper left hand corner you'll see a picture with three circles and three drawn simulated print heads the circle on the far left the print head is too far from the print bed you end up with a very round bead of filament but the filaments not going to stick to the print bed that means when it comes around again to print the next layer it's going to pop off in the center example the print head is too close to the print head in bed in fact if you get really too close you'll damage your print head in that case the bead is very flat and you'll notice on your first layer when you're first printing out a object the first layer will seem very very thin this will also not be very very effective and the third one is just right as they say in the three little bears and that is a print bead that's slightly squashed it will stick to the print bed and yet it will maintain its its volume because it's not pushed too low into the print bed and in order to calibrate for that I went into freecad and you'll see a picture in the upper left and I designed this calibration print object it basically consists of two squares the outermost square is 150 millimeters square 150 millimeters on each side it's one millimeter wide and one millimeter high now you might ask since the print head is point four millimeters and the print layer is I'm going to be user point two why don't I make it exactly that well one of the challenges is that in current slicers and you can adjust for this but it's tricky in current slicers if a feature is smaller than a particular size the slicer will in fact ignore it so if I was to set this at point four by point two the actual rectangle in terms of width and height cura using the default settings would ignore it so one by one is both more realistic of a real model and we're trying to determine if the print bed height is level for a real model and will work well with our slicers and then there's an inside square which is 50 millimeters on each edge one of the problems with many of the Cree ality printers is often there's a slight dip or bow in the middle of the print bed and so this inner square will help with that now that said printing this is still tricky it's tricky because this is a complex print there's not a lot of surface holding the print to the print bed if you were to print this with a brim that's a single layer high surface that's printed around it before it prints the actual object it would adhere much better if you were printed with a raft that's a multi-layer surface around the object it would adhere even better but we want to test a worse case this is a good way to do that okay let's zoom in on the print bed and on the control panel the LCD panel on the end or five and look at how you adjust to get the right distance between your printhead and the print bed so you get that slightly squashed bead all the way around okay to begin this process we want to make sure that our magnetic print bed has no buckles um if you get it don't get it in just the right place sometimes you will have bubbles in here then we're going to go to our console to our LCD our control comm we're going to go to prepare and select bad auto-leveling now you would think that makes it automatic it doesn't all that's going to do is position the printhead in each of the four corners and the center so we can level that it will go and click on next step and this will move it to the first position okay now that the fruit hasn't is moved to the proper location we are ready to begin leveling the bed underneath the bed and it will be hard for you to see from this angle there are very large adjustment knobs which make it very very easy when you turn these knobs to the right which would be counter clockwise you will move the printbed further away from the printer when you turn them to the left which will be clockwise you'll move it closer I like using a post-it note in order to do this I hold it on the sticky side you don't want the sticky side by the front end and you slide it under the between the print bed and the nozzle now if initially it's a little too tight you can push down there Springs here you can push down to get that in then if this is properly adjusted you should be able to slide by holding one corner of the post-it note slide this back and forth if it's a little too tight you'll be able to pull it towards you but not push it away if it's too loose you will feel no pressure at all no tension you should feel that it's grating it's rubbing just a little bit when you get that adjusted properly by adjusting the knob in that corner you go back to the LCD panel you go to prepare you go to bed leveling and you click on next step and your printhead will move to the next position now you do the exact same thing you slide this underneath you make sure that you can go back and forth but that you feel it feels a little gritty it feels like there's tension there but it will allow you to go back and forth as necessary you can make it a little tighter or a little loser turning it to the left which is clockwise will make it tighter turning it to the right which is counterclockwise will make it looser let's continue to the next position now we need to do the same thing and this one is a little bit too tight here so I'm going to push down on the spring so I can get this in now once it's in it feels almost okay I'm going to make this just a little bit looser by turning it maybe a quarter of inch to the right and now it feels just about right go to the next position and push this down so we can get this in because the papers are all curly now and this feels about right also and now we'll go to the final position which is in the center in general I found the center is a little loose and so one way to solve that is to put a little piece of painters tape under the center of the magnetic surface because if you go around and you attempt to retighten all the perimeters to get the center perfect if that bed is not perfectly flat you'll never get it adjusted properly so I have a little bit of tension but not as much as I'd like here we'll see how the calibration print goes now once I've completed that I go into my council I say print from sd card I go to dr. bats - box calibration and this is going to heat the bed it's going to heat the nozzle and then it's going to begin the print okay once the temperature comes up to speed it will begin printing a skirt that is a single layer high extrusion around your print this is used to prime the nozzle and one thing to note is that in addition to leveling the bed the temperature of your bed and the temperature of the filament will have a dramatic impact on the adhesion I find with hatch box PLA that if I run it a little hotter than the default and Kira I run at about 210 degrees by about 68 degrees 210 degrees on the nozzle about 68 degrees on the bed I get better adhesion and you'll see that this skirt is in a very nicely to the printer and we'll let this go for a minute so you can see it begin to print the actual calibration cubes so now it is drawing out the middle cube and in spite of the fact that the middle of this pad was a little bit lower than the outside edges it appears to be adhering well there's a little bit of stringing there must have been a blob of filament left from a prior print on the print nozzle it's always good to knock those off before you start printing and now it is printing the outside edge and you can see that extra filament did stick a bit so let's see when this comes around to see if that's going to be a problem now you will probably have to do this multiple times however it is important to note you don't need to wait for it to finish you can take and toss this or stop this at any time and on the end your 5 because the nozzles are underneath and the print bed is not moving while it's printing a particular layer you can adjust this lye which is an advantage of the under 5 so I'm going to pause this print I'm actually going to stop it so you can see what that looks like and now I will make any adjustments that seem appropriate to either the bed level or the temperature and I will continue to do this until I get to a really nice print okay thank you for watching this video I hope it was helpful to you it ends up that the calibration models are a bit fun to play with once they're done I did go around one more time and adjust each of the four screws to get it just perfect I hope this is helpful I will make the calibration model available on Thingiverse thanks again please like this video subscribe share with your friends and have a great day let's continue learning things together [Music]

Channel: Make With Tech (MakeWithTech)

Views: 145,680

Keywords: creality ender 5, creality ender, creality, nozzle height, bed level, bed leveling, 3d printer, creality ender 5 3d printer, creality ender 5 test, 3d printer software, 3d printers for beginners, bed leveling 3d printer, nozzle height from bed, nozzle height ender 3, nozzle height 3d printer, first layer 3d printing, first layer settings cura, first layer problems 3d printing, creality ender 3 bed leveling, creality 3d printer setup, ender 5 setup, nozzle layer height

Id: 5GymGa_EYVg

Length: 11min 51sec (711 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 07 2019