Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! In today's video, we'll discuss the 16 overcoat
do's and don'ts so you stay stylish and warm through the colder months of the year. Rule no.1 and that's very dear to my heart,
don't just buy the same black boring overcoat that every other man out there has. Black, in my opinion, is quite overrated especially
for overcoats because it shows every little hair and dust speck and you just blend in. At the same time, an overcoat gives you the
opportunity to really stand out from the crowd and so I urge you to consider other colors
such as brown, tan, maybe mixes, and we'll talk more
about it later in the video here. Two, do look for longer overcoats. By that, I mean something that covers your
knee because you stay warmer that way and traditionally, it's a very classic look that
won't go out of style anytime soon. If you go to the department store these days,
you will find lots of shorter overcoats because that's the current fashion, at the same time,
it won't stand the test of time and it makes you cooler. The proper overcoat length can be very flattering
to your look and it should be proportional to your height. If you're a shorter man, go with something
that is knee length or slightly shorter. If you're a taller man, go with something
knee length or slightly longer. If you're of regular height, just go with
something around knee length. If you watch old movies, you can sometimes
see men wearing overcoats that reach all the way down to the ankle and while that keeps
you warmer, it definitely has a very stodgy old world look and in my opinion, it makes
you look less attractive. Three, do opt for hundred percent natural
materials in overcoats. Unfortunately, even expensive overcoats these
days are often blended because it makes the fabric less expensive and thus more affordable
or increases the profit margins of the manufacturer. While polyester nylon fibers can make a garment
more durable, they're not as insulating as natural fibers such as cashmere, or wool,
or alpaca, and because of that, I'd stay clear of them. They also don't age as well and so 100% natural
materials will always be your best bet. Personally, I'm a huge fan a hundred percent
wool for overcoats because it's heavy, not too expensive, it doesn't absorb water, and
it keeps me warm. Cashmere is really nice and soft to the touch,
however, for overcoats, it's mostly too lightweight and so I find it not to be warm enough for
the colder days of the year. Four, don't buy an overcoat with a zipper. Yes, you can see them in ski jackets and functional
jackets but an overcoat is a classic garment that is stylish and as such, you'd go with
buttons. In case you go with a duffle coat, you can
also have wooden toggles but you can learn more about that in our duffle coat guide here. Yes, it's true that single-breasted coats
are the norm out there but double breasted ones make you stand out from the crowd and
on top of that, they keep you warmer because they have two layers of fabric on top of each
other versus a single-breasted, it just has one layer because it's buttoned in the middle. If you opt for a double-breasted overcoat,
make sure it has peak lapels because that's a classic style or an Ulster collar which
is also appropriate for DB overcoats. Definitely stay away from notch lapels in
double-breasted overcoats because it makes it look like from the 80s and it's just historically
incorrect. Six, don't forget the Hat. An overcoat is great to be worn with a hat
because it keeps you warmer and because it's a
classic garment, it is stylish, a hat always works well together. For a darker more formal overcoat such as
the one I'm wearing here right now in gray with a black color, a Fedora is an ideal choice. Alternatively, you can also go with a Homburg
hat and you can learn more about that hat style in this guide here. If you want to be a little more casual, I
suggest you go with a flat cap or a newsboy cap and if you need to be really warm, you
can opt for something that covers your ears such as maybe a sheepskin hat. Personally, I live in Minnesota where the
winters get really cold but fortunately, I haven't had to resort to those kinds of hats
yet. Seven, do wear a boutonniere or a pocket square
with your overcoat. If your overcoat has a buttonhole on a lapel,
you should wear a boutonniere because it's very stylish. If your lapels have buttonholes on either
side, always wear it on your left. If your overcoat has a chest pocket, you can
also wear a pocket square. Ideally, only if it's a traditional chest
pocket, if it's flat I would not wear a pocket square and of course, if there's no pocket,
you can't wear a square but that goes without saying. Eight, don't buy an overcoat that is too large
and baggy because it makes you look unattractive. First of all, determine how you want to wear
your overcoat. If you do want to wear a jacket underneath,
make sure you have enough room in your overcoat. Ideally, bring a jacket when you try them
on and make sure you have enough space in the shoulder area and in the upper arm in
your sleeve, otherwise, you can end up with a roomy coat in the torso that is just too
tight in the sleeves and that limits the range of movement, otherwise, in terms of fit, the
same principles apply as they do in jackets so I urge you to check out our guide on how
a suit should fit here. Nine, do look for striking yet classic details. No, I don't want you to wear bright orange
reflective overcoats, however, I urge you to consider maybe an interesting
weave in the fabric such as on this one here, where you can see, it consists out of gray,
black, and blue, and because of that, it's super versatile because I can wear with all
kinds of suits in those colors. Also, it has a black velvet collar that really
changes the look of the entire ensemble. Alternatively, you could also go with a bold
pattern, a classic would be a herringbone and they can definitely be oversized, don't
get something that is too small, you can wear it for a suit but not for overcoats. You can also go with epaulets, angle pockets,
maybe cuffs, or whatever you like. They're all classic details and it's just
fun to play with them on an overcoat. Ten, don't buy overcoats that combine the
styles of different overcoats because they will look dated very quickly. Designers often want to add a little twist
to their overcoat and so they start mixing patterns and details from traditional overcoats. Most of the time, they look just weird. For example, if you have a trench coat, it
should be made out of a cotton gabardine. If you start making it in a wool fabric or
in leather, the look is just very unadvantageous and it makes you look like someone from the
80s or 90s. Eleven, don't be afraid to invest a little
money in a good-quality overcoat because it's something that will last you longer than a
suit most of the time and you also have to buy fewer of them. It's going to be a lasting investment and
you really want to find something that drapes well
and flatters you because you can combine it with your entire wardrobe. Twelve, do consider vintage overcoats. Personally, I
love vintage overcoats because they have heavier fabrics that drape really really well and
on top of that, they have interesting color combinations such as the
coat I'm wearing here right now, in fact, most of the overcoats in my collection are
vintage and this one with a bold herringbone pattern and belt and an Ulster collar actually
found for $5.00 at a flea market. It's really heavy, nice , and warm and I always
get compliments when I wear it so wherever you are, keep your eyes open. Thirteen, don't mix an overcoat with casual
attire. If you want to wear your sweatpants, maybe
go with a quilted jacket or a hoodie and leave the overcoat at home. Mixing those two elements just show "oh I
want to dress up but at the same time I don't" and it just makes you look odd. The same is true for accessories such as baseball
hats, they simply wouldn't go with an overcoat. Fourteen, do look for heavy fabrics in an
overcoat because they're much more forgiving, they don't show wrinkles as easily, and they'll
keep you warm. Today a fabric with 14 to 19 ounces or 420
and 570 grams is considered to be heavy. Back in the day, that was almost a lightweight
overcoat and typically you could find some in 28 to 30 ounces or 850 to 900 grams. Fortunately, the cloth finishing today is
much better so fabrics are softer which is nice but that doesn't help you if you don't
stay warm when it's really windy and cold outside. If you pick up an overcoat, it has to feel
substantial and heavy, if it doesn't, I suggest you leave it behind. For the same reason, I'm not a
huge fan of cashmere overcoats because, in 98% of its time, they're just a too lightweight
and know there's a heavy version out there I think from Loro Piana and if you can find
that it might work out but of course it also depends in what kind of climate you live. Fifteen, don't show any cuff on an overcoat. if you've
been a regular follower of the gentleman's Gazette, you've likely encountered our sleeve
length guide. If you haven't watched it yet, please do so
now. With regular suit jackets or sport coats,
most men want to show a little bit of their shirt cuff. With an overcoat, that's not the case, you
want it to reach all the way down to the beginning of your thumb that way, it covers your entire
jacket it gives a little room to move without letting in the cold air. At the same time, you don't want the overcoat
sleeve to cover your thumb otherwise it looks too long and like something you just borrowed
from your older brother. Sixteen, do look for the little button in
the vent area because when it's very windy, you can just close it and stay warmer that
way. if you have a long vent and you don't have
a button, an alterations tailor may be able to add a hidden buttonhole as well as a button
so you can apply that. Last but not least, a bonus tip, if you wear
an overcoat, try to add classic accessories such as a scarf or gloves. Sometimes if you live in a very mild climate,
that may not be necessary but most of the time, you definitely want them. Opt for dress leather gloves not your ski
gloves, and go with nice cashmere or wool or alpaca scarves that keep you warm and stylish. For a selection of dapper gentleman scarves
and gloves in various colors and patterns, please check out our selection here in our
shop. if you enjoyed this video and want to learn
more about overcoats please subscribe to our channel
and hit that little bell so videos like this can write your inbox in
today's video and wearing a classic paletot style overcoat from Chesterberry which is
double breasted with six buttons two of which are button and truth
which are decorative it has regular flap pockets no chest pocket but buttonholes in my lapels
so I can wear it with a boutonniere the one you can see here is the edelweiss which is
one of our most popular lapel flowers the buttons are made of a dark round horn which
are natural and suit the formality of this coat apart from the interesting hundred percent
wool fabric which consists of colors in charcoal gray
blue and black something that really stands out is the black velvet
collar even if you have a solid overcoat it's definitely something you can add after the
fact it really changes the entire look and perception of the garment
as you can see the overcoat reaches below my knee which is classic elegant and it keeps
me warm it also has a little button in the back which I can close if I want it for my
pants I'm wearing warm dark brown corduroys on my feet
you can find Balmoral Oxford boots with a cap toe in black which are lined with fur
and that way my feet stay much more because of that I also opted for a rubber sole which
provides more grip and works better on salty wintery roads and sidewalks the scarf is double-sided
in silk and wool from Fort Belvedere it has a burgundy base with tones
blues orange and it works quite well with my overcoat my hands are kept warm by petrol
blue lamb nappa gloves with a cashmere lining by Fort Belvedere which you can find in our
shop here just like the scarf my hat's a vintage felt Fedora from the German company I had
added a contrasting hat band and although it's Navy and my
color is black it works really well with the overall ensemble because of the different
blue tones and gray tones and black tones in my overcoat fabric
